We saw but little of the village of Kenilworth, passing through it sidelong fashion, in the omnibus; but I learn that it has between three and four thousand inhabitants, and is of immemorial antiquity3. We saw a few old, gabled, and timber-framed houses; but generally the town was of modern aspect, although less so in the immediate4 vicinity of the castle gate, across the road from which there was an inn, with bowling-greens, and a little bunch of houses and shops. Apart from the high road there is a gate-house, ancient, but in excellent repair, towered, turreted5, and battlemented, and looking like a castle in itself. Until Cromwell's time, the entrance to the castle used to be beneath an arch that passed through this structure; but the gate-house being granted to one of the Parliament officers, he converted it into a residence, and apparently6 added on a couple of gables, which now look quite as venerable as the rest of the edifice7. Admission within the outer grounds of the castle is now obtained through a little wicket close beside the gate-house, at which sat one or two old men, who touched their hats to us in humble8 willingness to accept a fee. One of them had guide-books for sale; and, finding that we were not to be bothered by a cicerone, we bought one of his books.
The ruins are perhaps two hundred yards from the gate-house and the road, and the space between is a pasture for sheep, which also browse9 in the inner court, and shelter themselves in the dungeons10 and state apartments of the castle. Goats would be fitter occupants, because they would climb to the tops of the crumbling11 towers, and nibble12 the weeds and shrubbery that grow there. The first part of the castle which we reach is called Caesar's Tower, being the oldest portion of the ruins, and still very stalwart and massive, and built of red freestone, like all the rest. Caesar's Tower being on the right, Leicester's Buildings, erected13 by the Earl of Leicester, Queen Elizabeth's favorite, are on the left; and between these two formerly14 stood other structures which have now as entirely15 disappeared as if they had never existed; and through the wide gap, thus opened, appears the grassy16 inner court, surrounded on three sides by half-fallen towers and shattered walls. Some of these were erected by John of Gaunt; and among these ruins is the Banqueting-Hall,— or rather was,—for it has now neither floor nor roof, but only the broken stone-work of some tall, arched windows, and the beautiful, old ivied arch of the entrance-way, now inaccessible17 from the ground. The ivy18 is very abundant about the ruins, and hangs its green curtains quite from top to bottom of some of the windows. There are likewise very large and aged19 trees within the castle, there being no roof nor pavement anywhere, except in some dungeon-like nooks; so that the trees having soil and air enough, and being sheltered from unfriendly blasts, can grow as if in a nursery. Hawthorn20, however, next to ivy, is the great ornament21 and comforter of these desolate22 ruins. I have not seen so much nor such thriving hawthorn anywhere else,—in the court, high up on crumbly heights, on the sod that carpets roofless rooms,—everywhere, indeed, and now rejoicing in plentiful23 crops of red berries. The ivy is even more wonderfully luxuriant; its trunks being, in some places, two or three feet in diameter, and forming real buttresses24 against the walls, which are actually supported and vastly strengthened by this parasite25, that clung to them at first only for its own convenience, and now holds them up, lest it should be ruined by their fall. Thus an abuse has strangely grown into a use, and I think we may sometimes see the same fact, morally, in English matters. There is something very curious in the close, firm grip which the ivy fixes upon the wall, closer and closer for centuries. Neither is it at all nice as to what it clutches, in its necessity for support. I saw in the outer court an old hawthorn-tree, to which a plant of ivy had married itself, and the ivy trunk and the hawthorn trunk were now absolutely incorporated, and in their close embrace you could not tell which was which.
At one end of the Banqueting-Hall, there are two large bay-windows, one of which looks into the inner court, and the other affords a view of the surrounding country. The former is called Queen Elizabeth's Dressing-room. Beyond the Banqueting-Hall is what is called the Strong Tower, up to the top of which we climbed principally by the aid of the stones that have tumbled down from it. A lady sat half-way down the crumbly descent, within the castle, on a camp-stool, and before an easel, sketching26 this tower, on the summit of which we sat. She said it was Amy Robsart's Tower; and within it, open to the day, and quite accessible, we saw a room that we were free to imagine had been occupied by her. I do not find that these associations of real scenes with fictitious27 events greatly heighten the charm of them.
By this time the sun had come out brightly, and with such warmth that we were glad to sit down in the shadow. Several sight-seers were now rambling28 about, and among them some school-boys, who kept scrambling29 up to points whither no other animal, except a goat, would have ventured. Their shouts and the sunshine made the old castle cheerful; and what with the ivy and the hawthorn, and the other old trees, it was very beautiful and picturesque30. But a castle does not make nearly so interesting and impressive a ruin as an abbey, because the latter was built for beauty, and on a plan in which deep thought and feeling were involved; and having once been a grand and beautiful work, it continues grand and beautiful through all the successive stages of its decay. But a castle is rudely piled together for strength and other material conveniences; and, having served these ends, it has nothing left to fall back upon, but crumbles31 into shapeless masses, which are often as little picturesque as a pile of bricks. Without the ivy and the shrubbery, this huge Kenilworth would not be a pleasant object, except for one or two window-frames, with broken tracery, in the Banqueting-Hall. . . .
We stayed from eleven till two, and identified the various parts of the castle as well as we could by the guide-book. The ruins are very extensive, though less so than I should have imagined, considering that seven acres were included within the castle wall. But a large part of the structures have been taken away to build houses in Kenilworth village and elsewhere, and much, too, to make roads with, and a good deal lies under the green turf in the court-yards, inner and outer. As we returned to the gate, my wife and U—— went into the gate-house to see an old chimney-piece, and other antiquities32, and J——- and I proceeded a little way round the outer wall, and saw the remains33 of the moat, and Lin's Tower,—a real and shattered fabric34 of John of Gaunt.
The omnibus now drove up, and one of the old men at the gate came hobbling up to open the door, and was rewarded with a sixpence, and we drove down to the King's Head. . . . We then walked out and bought prints of the castle, and inquired our way to the church and to the ruins of the Priory. The latter, so far as we could discover them, are very few and uninteresting; and the church, though it has a venerable exterior35, and an aged spire36, has been so modernized37 within, and in so plain a fashion, as to have lost what beauty it may once have had. There were a few brasses38 and mural monuments, one of which was a marble group of a dying woman and her family by Westmacott. The sexton was a cheerful little man, but knew very little about his church, and nothing of the remains of the Priory. The day was spent very pleasantly amid this beautiful green English scenery, these fine old Warwickshire trees, and broad, gently swelling39 fields.
点击收听单词发音
1 misty | |
adj.雾蒙蒙的,有雾的 | |
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2 refinement | |
n.文雅;高尚;精美;精制;精炼 | |
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3 antiquity | |
n.古老;高龄;古物,古迹 | |
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4 immediate | |
adj.立即的;直接的,最接近的;紧靠的 | |
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5 turreted | |
a.(像炮塔般)旋转式的 | |
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6 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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7 edifice | |
n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿,教室) | |
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8 humble | |
adj.谦卑的,恭顺的;地位低下的;v.降低,贬低 | |
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9 browse | |
vi.随意翻阅,浏览;(牛、羊等)吃草 | |
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10 dungeons | |
n.地牢( dungeon的名词复数 ) | |
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11 crumbling | |
adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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12 nibble | |
n.轻咬,啃;v.一点点地咬,慢慢啃,吹毛求疵 | |
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13 ERECTED | |
adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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14 formerly | |
adv.从前,以前 | |
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15 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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16 grassy | |
adj.盖满草的;长满草的 | |
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17 inaccessible | |
adj.达不到的,难接近的 | |
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18 ivy | |
n.常青藤,常春藤 | |
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19 aged | |
adj.年老的,陈年的 | |
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20 hawthorn | |
山楂 | |
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21 ornament | |
v.装饰,美化;n.装饰,装饰物 | |
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22 desolate | |
adj.荒凉的,荒芜的;孤独的,凄凉的;v.使荒芜,使孤寂 | |
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23 plentiful | |
adj.富裕的,丰富的 | |
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24 buttresses | |
n.扶壁,扶垛( buttress的名词复数 )v.用扶壁支撑,加固( buttress的第三人称单数 ) | |
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25 parasite | |
n.寄生虫;寄生菌;食客 | |
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26 sketching | |
n.草图 | |
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27 fictitious | |
adj.虚构的,假设的;空头的 | |
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28 rambling | |
adj.[建]凌乱的,杂乱的 | |
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29 scrambling | |
v.快速爬行( scramble的现在分词 );攀登;争夺;(军事飞机)紧急起飞 | |
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30 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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31 crumbles | |
酥皮水果甜点( crumble的名词复数 ) | |
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32 antiquities | |
n.古老( antiquity的名词复数 );古迹;古人们;古代的风俗习惯 | |
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33 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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34 fabric | |
n.织物,织品,布;构造,结构,组织 | |
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35 exterior | |
adj.外部的,外在的;表面的 | |
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36 spire | |
n.(教堂)尖顶,尖塔,高点 | |
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37 modernized | |
使现代化,使适应现代需要( modernize的过去式和过去分词 ); 现代化,使用现代方法 | |
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38 brasses | |
n.黄铜( brass的名词复数 );铜管乐器;钱;黄铜饰品(尤指马挽具上的黄铜圆片) | |
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39 swelling | |
n.肿胀 | |
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