On Saturday we took the rail for Coventry, about a half-hour's travel distant. I had been there before, more than two years ago. . . . No doubt I described it on my first visit; and it is not remarkable4 enough to be worth two descriptions,—a large town of crooked5 and irregular streets and lanes, not looking nearly so ancient as it is, because of new brick and stuccoed fronts which have been plastered over its antiquity6; although still there are interspersed7 the peaked gables of old-fashioned, timber-built houses; or an archway of worn stone, which, if you pass through it, shows like an avenue from the present to the past; for just in the rear of the new-fangled aspect lurks8 the old arrangement of court-yards, and rustiness9, and grimness, that would not be suspected from the exterior10.
Right across the narrow street stands St. Michael's Church with its tall, tall tower and spire11. The body of the church has been almost entirely12 recased with stone since I was here before; but the tower still retains its antiquity, and is decorated with statues that look down from their lofty niches13 seemingly in good preservation14. The tower and spire are most stately and beautiful, the whole church very noble. We went in, and found that the vulgar plaster of Cromwell's time has been scraped from the pillars and arches, leaving them all as fresh and splendid as if just made.
We looked also into Trinity Church, which stands close by St. Michael's, separated only, I think, by the churchyard. We also visited St. John's Church, which is very venerable as regards its exterior, the stone being worn and smoothed—if not roughened, rather—by centuries of storm and fitful weather. This wear and tear, however, has almost ceased to be a charm to my mind, comparatively to what it was when I first began to see old buildings. Within, the church is spoiled by wooden galleries, built across the beautiful pointed15 arches.
We saw nothing else particularly worthy16 of remark except Ford's Hospital, in Grey Friars' Street. It has an Elizabethan front of timber and plaster, facing on the street, with two or three peaked gables in a row, beneath which is a low, arched entrance, giving admission into a small paved quadrangle, open to the sky above, but surrounded by the walls, lozenge-paned windows, and gables of the Hospital. The quadrangle is but a few paces in width, and perhaps twenty in length; and, through a half-closed doorway17, at the farther end, there was a glimpse into a garden. Just within the entrance, through an open door, we saw the neat and comfortable apartment of the Matron of the Hospital; and, along the quadrangle, on each side, there were three or four doors, through which we glanced into little rooms, each containing a fireplace, a bed, a chair or two,—a little, homely18, domestic scene, with one old woman in the midst of it; one old woman in each room. They are destitute19 widows, who have their lodging20 and home here,—a small room for each one to sleep, cook, and be at home in,—and three and sixpence a week to feed and clothe themselves with,—a cloak being the only garment bestowed21 on them. When one of the sisterhood dies each old woman has to pay twopence towards the funeral; and so they slowly starve and wither22 out of life, and claim each their twopence contribution in turn. I am afraid they have a very dismal23 time.
There is an old man's hospital in another part of the town, on a similar plan. A collection of sombre and lifelike tales might be written on the idea of giving the experiences of these Hospitallers, male and female; and they might be supposed to be written by the Matron of one, who had acquired literary taste and practice as a governess,—and by the Master of the other, a retired24 school-usher.
It was market-day in Coventry, and far adown the street leading from it there were booths and stalls, and apples, pears, toys, books, among which I saw my Twice-Told Tales, with an awful portrait of myself as frontispiece,—and various country produce, offered for sale by men, women, and girls. The scene looked lively, but had not much vivacity25 in it.
October 27th.—The autumn has advanced progressively, and is now fairly established, though still there is much green foliage26, in spite of many brown trees, and an enormous quantity of withered27 leaves, too damp to rustle28, strewing29 the paths,—whence, however, they are continually swept up and carried off in wheelbarrows, either for neatness or for the agricultural worth, as manure30, of even a withered leaf. The pastures look just as green as ever,—a deep, bright verdure, that seems almost sunshine in itself, however sombre the sky may be. The little plats of grass and flowers, in front of our circle of houses, might still do credit to an American midsummer; for I have seen beautiful roses here within a day or two; and dahlias, asters, and such autumnal flowers, are plentiful31; and I have no doubt that the old year's flowers will bloom till those of the new year appear. Really, the English winter is not so terrible as ours.
October 30th.—Wednesday was one of the most beautiful of all days, and gilded32 almost throughout with the precious English sunshine,—the most delightful33 sunshine ever made, both for its positive fine qualities and because we seldom get it without too great an admixture of water. We made no use of this lovely day, except to walk to an Arboretum34 and Pinetum on the outskirts35 of the town. U—— and Mrs. Shepard made an excursion to Guy's Cliff.
[Here comes in the visit to Leicester's Hospital and Redfern's Shop, and St. Mary's Church, printed in Our Old Home.—ED.]
From Redfern's we went back to the market-place, expecting to find J——- at the Museum, but the keeper said he had gone away. We went into this museum, which contains the collections in Natural History, etc., of a county society. It is very well arranged, and is rich in specimens36 of ornithology37, among which was an albatross, huge beyond imagination. I do not think that Coleridge could have known the size of the fowl38 when he caused it to be hung round the neck of his Ancient Mariner39. There were a great many humming-birds from various parts of the world, and some of their breasts actually gleamed and shone as with the brightest lustre40 of sunset. Also, many strange fishes, and a huge pike taken from the river Avon, and so long that I wonder how he could turn himself about in such a little river as the Avon is near Warwick. A great curiosity was a bunch of skeleton leaves and flowers, prepared by a young lady, and preserving all the most delicate fibres of the plant, looking like inconceivably fine lace-work, white as snow, while the substance was quite taken away. In another room there were minerals, shells, and a splendid collection of fossils, among which were remains41 of antediluvian42 creatures, several feet long. In still another room, we saw some historical curiosities,—the most interesting of which were two locks of reddish-brown hair, one from the head and one from the beard of Edward IV. They were fastened to a manuscript letter which authenticates43 the hair as having been taken from King Edward's tomb in 1739. Near these relics44 was a seal of the great Earl of Warwick, the mighty45 kingmaker; also a sword from Bosworth Field, smaller and shorter than those now in use; for, indeed, swords seem to have increased in length, weight, and formidable aspect, now that the weapon has almost ceased to be used in actual warfare46. The short Roman sword was probably more murderous than any weapon of the same species, except the bowie-knife. Here, too, were Parliamentary cannon-balls, etc. . . .
[The visit to Whitnash intervenes here.—ED.]
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1
reposing
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| v.将（手臂等）靠在某人（某物）上( repose的现在分词 ) | |
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2
unnatural
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| adj.不自然的；反常的 | |
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consulate
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| n.领事馆 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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crooked
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| adj.弯曲的；不诚实的，狡猾的，不正当的 | |
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6
antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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7
interspersed
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| adj.[医]散开的；点缀的v.intersperse的过去式和过去分词 | |
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8
lurks
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| n.潜在，潜伏；（lurk的复数形式）vi.潜伏，埋伏（lurk的第三人称单数形式） | |
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9
rustiness
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| 生锈，声音沙哑； 荒疏； 锈蚀 | |
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10
exterior
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| adj.外部的，外在的；表面的 | |
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11
spire
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| n.(教堂)尖顶，尖塔，高点 | |
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12
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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13
niches
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| 壁龛( niche的名词复数 )； 合适的位置[工作等]； （产品的）商机； 生态位（一个生物所占据的生境的最小单位） | |
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14
preservation
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| n.保护，维护，保存，保留，保持 | |
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15
pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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16
worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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17
doorway
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| n.门口，(喻)入门；门路，途径 | |
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18
homely
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| adj.家常的，简朴的；不漂亮的 | |
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19
destitute
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| adj.缺乏的；穷困的 | |
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20
lodging
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| n.寄宿，住所；(大学生的)校外宿舍 | |
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21
bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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22
wither
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| vt.使凋谢，使衰退，(用眼神气势等)使畏缩；vi.枯萎，衰退，消亡 | |
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23
dismal
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| adj.阴沉的，凄凉的，令人忧郁的，差劲的 | |
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24
retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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25
vivacity
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| n.快活，活泼，精神充沛 | |
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26
foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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27
withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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28
rustle
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| v.沙沙作响；偷盗(牛、马等)；n.沙沙声声 | |
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29
strewing
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| v.撒在…上( strew的现在分词 )；散落于；点缀；撒满 | |
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30
manure
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| n.粪，肥，肥粒；vt.施肥 | |
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31
plentiful
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| adj.富裕的，丰富的 | |
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32
gilded
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| a.镀金的，富有的 | |
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33
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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34
arboretum
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| n.植物园 | |
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35
outskirts
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| n.郊外，郊区 | |
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36
specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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37
ornithology
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| n.鸟类学 | |
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38
fowl
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| n.家禽，鸡，禽肉 | |
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39
mariner
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| n.水手号不载人航天探测器，海员，航海者 | |
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40
lustre
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| n.光亮，光泽；荣誉 | |
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41
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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42
antediluvian
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| adj.史前的，陈旧的 | |
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43
authenticates
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| n.证明是真实的、可靠的或有效的( authenticate的名词复数 )；鉴定，使生效v.证明是真实的、可靠的或有效的( authenticate的第三人称单数 )；鉴定，使生效 | |
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44
relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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45
mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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46
warfare
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| n.战争(状态)；斗争；冲突 | |
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