We left San Quirico at two o'clock, and followed an ascending7 road till we got into the region above the clouds; the landscape was very wide, but very dreary9 and barren, and grew more and more so till we began to climb the mountain of Radicofani, the peak of which had been blackening itself on the horizon almost the whole day. When we had come into a pretty high region we were assailed10 by a real mountain tempest of wind, rain, and hail, which pelted11 down upon us in good earnest, and cooled the air a little below comfort. As we toiled12 up the mountain its upper region presented a very striking aspect, looking as if a precipice13 had been smoothed and squared for the purpose of rendering14 the old castle on its summit more inaccessible15 than it was by nature. This is the castle of the robber-knight16, Ghino di Tacco, whom Boccaccio introduces into the Decameron. A freebooter of those days must have set a higher value on such a rock as this than if it had been one mass of diamond, for no art of mediaeval warfare17 could endanger him in such a fortress18. Drawing yet nearer, we found the hillside immediately above us strewn with thousands upon thousands of great fragments of stone. It looked as if some great ruin had taken place there, only it was too vast a ruin to have been the dismemberment and dissolution of anything made by man.
We could now see the castle on the height pretty distinctly. It seemed to impend20 over the precipice; and close to the base of the latter we saw the street of a town on as strange and inconvenient21 a foundation as ever one was built upon. I suppose the inhabitants of the village were dependants22 of the old knight of the castle; his brotherhood23 of robbers, as they married and had families, settled there under the shelter of the eagle's nest. But the singularity is, how a community of people have contrived24 to live and perpetuate25 themselves so far out of the reach of the world's help, and seemingly with no means of assisting in the world's labor26. I cannot imagine how they employ themselves except in begging, and even that branch of industry appears to be left to the old women and the children. No house was ever built in this immediate19 neighborhood for any such natural purpose as induces people to build them on other sites. Even our hotel, at which we now arrived, could not be said to be a natural growth of the soil; it had originally been a whim27 of one of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany,—a hunting-palace,—intended for habitation only during a few weeks of the year. Of all dreary hotels I ever alighted at, methinks this is the most so; but on first arriving I merely followed the waiter to look at our rooms, across stone-paved basement-halls dismal28 as Etruscan tombs; up dim staircases, and along shivering corridors, all of stone, stone, stone, nothing but cold stone. After glancing at these pleasant accommodations, my wife and I, with J——-, set out to ascend8 the hill and visit the town of Radicofani.
It is not more than a quarter of a mile above our hotel, and is accessible by a good piece of road, though very steep. As we approached the town, we were assailed by some little beggars; but this is the case all through Italy, in city or solitude29, and I think the mendicants of Radicofani are fewer than its proportion. We had not got far towards the village, when, looking back over the scene of many miles that lay stretched beneath us, we saw a heavy shower apparently30 travelling straight towards us over hill and dale. It seemed inevitable31 that it should soon be upon us, so I persuaded my wife to return to the hotel; but J——- and I kept onward32, being determined33 to see Radicofani with or without a drenching34. We soon entered the street; the blackest, ugliest, rudest old street, I do believe, that ever human life incrusted itself with. The first portion of it is the overbrimming of the town in generations subsequent to that in which it was surrounded by a wall; but after going a little way we came to a high, square tower planted right across the way, with an arched gateway35 in its basement story, so that it looked like a great short-legged giant striding over the street of Radicofani. Within the gateway is the proper and original town, though indeed the portion outside of the gate is as densely36 populated, as ugly, and as ancient, as that within.
The street was very narrow, and paved with flag-stones not quite so smooth as those of Florence; the houses are tall enough to be stately, if they were not so inconceivably dingy37 and shabby; but, with their half-dozen stories, they make only the impression of hovel piled upon hovel,—squalor immortalized in undecaying stone. It was now getting far into the twilight38, and I could not distinguish the particularities of the little town, except that there were shops, a cafe or two, and as many churches, all dusky with age, crowded closely together, inconvenient stifled39 too in spite of the breadth and freedom of the mountain atmosphere outside the scanty40 precincts of the street. It was a death-in-life little place, a fossilized place, and yet the street was thronged41, and had all the bustle43 of a city; even more noise than a city's street, because everybody in Radicofani knows everybody, and probably gossips with everybody, being everybody's blood relation, as they cannot fail to have become after they and their forefathers44 have been shut up together within the narrow walls for many hundred years. They looked round briskly at J——- and me, but were courteous45, as Italians always are, and made way for us to pass through the throng42, as we kept on still ascending the steep street. It took us but a few minutes to reach the still steeper and winding46 pathway which climbs towards the old castle.
After ascending above the village, the path, though still paved, becomes very rough, as if the hoofs47 of Ghino di Tacco's robber cavalry48 had displaced the stones and they had never been readjusted. On every side, too, except where the path just finds space enough, there is an enormous rubbish of huge stones, which seems to have fallen from the precipice above, or else to have rained down out of the sky. We kept on, and by and by reached what seemed to have been a lower outwork of the castle on the top; there was the massive old arch of a gateway, and a great deal of ruin of man's work, beside the large stones that here, as elsewhere, were scattered49 so abundantly. Within the wall and gateway just mentioned, however, there was a kind of farm-house, adapted, I suppose, out of the old ruin, and I noticed some ears of Indian corn hanging out of a window. There were also a few stacks of hay, but no signs of human or animal life; and it is utterly50 inexplicable51 to me, where these products of the soil could have come from, for certainly they never grew amid that barrenness.
We had not yet reached Ghino's castle, and, being now beneath it, we had to bend our heads far backward to see it rising up against the clear sky while we were now in twilight. The path upward looked terribly steep and rough, and if we had climbed it we should probably have broken our necks in descending52 again into the lower obscurity. We therefore stopped here, much against J——-'s will, and went back as we came, still wondering at the strange situation of Radicofani; for its aspect is as if it had stepped off the top of the cliff and lodged53 at its base, though still in danger of sliding farther down the hillside. Emerging from the compact, grimy life of its street, we saw that the shower had swept by, or probably had expended54 itself in a region beneath us, for we were above the scope of many of the showery clouds that haunt a hill-country. There was a very bright star visible, I remember, and we saw the new moon, now a third towards the full, for the first time this evening. The air was cold and bracing55.
But I am excessively sleepy, so will not describe our great dreary hotel, where a blast howled in an interminable corridor all night. It did not seem to have anything to do with the wind out of doors, but to be a blast that had been casually56 shut in when the doors were closed behind the last Grand Duke who came hither and departed, and ever since it has been kept prisoner, and makes a melancholy57 wail58 along the corridor. The dreamy stupidity of this conceit59 proves how sleepy I am.
点击收听单词发音
1 yoke | |
n.轭;支配;v.给...上轭,连接,使成配偶 | |
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2 furrows | |
n.犁沟( furrow的名词复数 );(脸上的)皱纹v.犁田,开沟( furrow的第三人称单数 ) | |
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3 ribs | |
n.肋骨( rib的名词复数 );(船或屋顶等的)肋拱;肋骨状的东西;(织物的)凸条花纹 | |
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4 partially | |
adv.部分地,从某些方面讲 | |
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5 reins | |
感情,激情; 缰( rein的名词复数 ); 控制手段; 掌管; (成人带着幼儿走路以防其走失时用的)保护带 | |
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6 miserable | |
adj.悲惨的,痛苦的;可怜的,糟糕的 | |
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7 ascending | |
adj.上升的,向上的 | |
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8 ascend | |
vi.渐渐上升,升高;vt.攀登,登上 | |
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9 dreary | |
adj.令人沮丧的,沉闷的,单调乏味的 | |
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10 assailed | |
v.攻击( assail的过去式和过去分词 );困扰;质问;毅然应对 | |
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11 pelted | |
(连续地)投掷( pelt的过去式和过去分词 ); 连续抨击; 攻击; 剥去…的皮 | |
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12 toiled | |
长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的过去式和过去分词 ); 艰难缓慢地移动,跋涉 | |
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13 precipice | |
n.悬崖,危急的处境 | |
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14 rendering | |
n.表现,描写 | |
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15 inaccessible | |
adj.达不到的,难接近的 | |
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16 knight | |
n.骑士,武士;爵士 | |
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17 warfare | |
n.战争(状态);斗争;冲突 | |
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18 fortress | |
n.堡垒,防御工事 | |
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19 immediate | |
adj.立即的;直接的,最接近的;紧靠的 | |
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20 impend | |
v.迫近,逼近,即将发生 | |
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21 inconvenient | |
adj.不方便的,令人感到麻烦的 | |
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22 dependants | |
受赡养者,受扶养的家属( dependant的名词复数 ) | |
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23 brotherhood | |
n.兄弟般的关系,手中情谊 | |
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24 contrived | |
adj.不自然的,做作的;虚构的 | |
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25 perpetuate | |
v.使永存,使永记不忘 | |
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26 labor | |
n.劳动,努力,工作,劳工;分娩;vi.劳动,努力,苦干;vt.详细分析;麻烦 | |
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27 whim | |
n.一时的兴致,突然的念头;奇想,幻想 | |
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28 dismal | |
adj.阴沉的,凄凉的,令人忧郁的,差劲的 | |
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29 solitude | |
n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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30 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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31 inevitable | |
adj.不可避免的,必然发生的 | |
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32 onward | |
adj.向前的,前进的;adv.向前,前进,在先 | |
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33 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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34 drenching | |
n.湿透v.使湿透( drench的现在分词 );在某人(某物)上大量使用(某液体) | |
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35 gateway | |
n.大门口,出入口,途径,方法 | |
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36 densely | |
ad.密集地;浓厚地 | |
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37 dingy | |
adj.昏暗的,肮脏的 | |
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38 twilight | |
n.暮光,黄昏;暮年,晚期,衰落时期 | |
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39 stifled | |
(使)窒息, (使)窒闷( stifle的过去式和过去分词 ); 镇压,遏制; 堵 | |
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40 scanty | |
adj.缺乏的,仅有的,节省的,狭小的,不够的 | |
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41 thronged | |
v.成群,挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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42 throng | |
n.人群,群众;v.拥挤,群集 | |
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43 bustle | |
v.喧扰地忙乱,匆忙,奔忙;n.忙碌;喧闹 | |
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44 forefathers | |
n.祖先,先人;祖先,祖宗( forefather的名词复数 );列祖列宗;前人 | |
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45 courteous | |
adj.彬彬有礼的,客气的 | |
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46 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
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47 hoofs | |
n.(兽的)蹄,马蹄( hoof的名词复数 )v.(兽的)蹄,马蹄( hoof的第三人称单数 ) | |
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48 cavalry | |
n.骑兵;轻装甲部队 | |
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49 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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50 utterly | |
adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
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51 inexplicable | |
adj.无法解释的,难理解的 | |
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52 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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53 lodged | |
v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 );暂住;埋入;(权利、权威等)归属 | |
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54 expended | |
v.花费( expend的过去式和过去分词 );使用(钱等)做某事;用光;耗尽 | |
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55 bracing | |
adj.令人振奋的 | |
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56 casually | |
adv.漠不关心地,无动于衷地,不负责任地 | |
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57 melancholy | |
n.忧郁,愁思;adj.令人感伤(沮丧)的,忧郁的 | |
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58 wail | |
vt./vi.大声哀号,恸哭;呼啸,尖啸 | |
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59 conceit | |
n.自负,自高自大 | |
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