. . . . We traversed again that same weary and dreary5 tract6 of country which we passed over in a winter afternoon and night on our first arrival in Rome. It is as desolate7 a country as can well be imagined, but about midway of our journey we came to the sea-shore, and kept very near it during the rest of the way. The sight and fragrance8 of it were exceedingly refreshing9 after so long an interval10, and U—— revived visibly as we rushed along, while J——- chuckled11 and contorted himself with ineffable12 delight.
We reached Civita Vecchia in three or four hours, and were there subjected to various troubles. . . . All the while Miss S——— and I were bothering about the passport, the rest of the family sat in the sun on the quay13, with all kinds of bustle14 and confusion around them; a very trying experience to U—— after the long seclusion15 and quiet of her sick-chamber. But she did not seem to suffer from it, and we finally reached the steamer in good condition and spirits. . . .
I slept wretchedly in my short and narrow berth16, more especially as there was an old gentleman who snored as if he were sounding a charge; it was terribly hot too, and I rose before four o'clock, and was on deck amply in time to watch the distant approach of sunrise. We arrived at Leghorn pretty early, and might have gone ashore17 and spent the day. Indeed, we had been recommended by Dr. Franco, and had fully18 purposed to spend a week or ten days there, in expectation of benefit to U——'s health from the sea air and sea bathing, because he thought her still too feeble to make the whole voyage to Marseilles at a stretch. But she showed herself so strong that we thought she would get as much good from our three days' voyage as from the days by the sea-shore. Moreover, . . . . we all of us still felt the languor19 of the Roman atmosphere, and dreaded21 the hubbub22 and crazy confusion of landing at an Italian port. . . . So we lay in the harbor all day without stirring from the steamer. . . . It would have been pleasant, however, to have gone to Pisa, fifteen miles off, and seen the leaning tower; but, for my part, I have arrived at that point where it is somewhat pleasanter to sit quietly in any spot whatever than to see whatever grandest or most beautiful thing. At least this was my mood in the harbor of Leghorn. From the deck of the steamer there were many things visible that might have been interesting to describe: the boats of peculiar23 rig, and covered with awning24; the crowded shipping25; the disembarkation of horses from the French cavalry26, which were lowered from steamers into gondolas27 or lighters28, and hung motionless, like the sign of the Golden Fleece, during the transit29, only kicking a little when their feet happened to graze the vessel30's side. One horse plunged31 overboard, and narrowly escaped drowning. There was likewise a disembarkation of French soldiers in a train of boats, which rowed shoreward with sound of trumpet32. The French are concentrating a considerable number of troops at this point.
Our steamer was detained by order of the French government to take on board despatches; so that, instead of sailing at dusk, as is customary, we lay in the harbor till seven of the next morning. A number of young Sardinian officers, in green uniform, came on board, and a pale and picturesque33-looking Italian, and other worthies34 of less note,—English, American, and of all races,—among them a Turk with a little boy in Christian35 dress; also a Greek gentleman with his young bride.
At the appointed time we weighed anchor for Genoa, and had a beautiful day on the Mediterranean36, and for the first time in my life I saw the real dark blue of the sea. I do not remember noticing it on my outward voyage to Italy. It is the most beautiful hue37 that can be imagined, like a liquid sky; and it retains its lustrous38 blue directly under the side of the ship, where the water of the mid-Atlantic looks greenish. . . . We reached Genoa at seven in the afternoon. . . . Genoa looks most picturesquely39 from the sea, at the foot of a sheltering semicircle of lofty hills; and as we lay in the harbor we saw, among other interesting objects, the great Doria Palace, with its gardens, and the cathedral, and a heap and sweep of stately edifices40, with the mountains looking down upon he city, and crowned with fortresses41. The variety of hue in the houses, white, green, pink, and orange, was very remarkable43. It would have been well to go ashore here for an hour or two and see the streets, —having already seen the palaces, churches, and public buildings at our former visit,—and buy a few specimens44 of Genoa goldsmiths' work; but I preferred the steamer's deck, so the evening passed pleasantly away; the two lighthouses at the entrance of the port kindled45 up their fires, and at nine o'clock the evening gun thundered from the fortress42, and was reverberated46 from the heights. We sailed away at eleven, and I was roused from my first sleep by the snortings and hissings of the vessel as she got under way.
At Genoa we took on board some more passengers, an English nobleman with his lady being of the number. These were Lord and Lady J———, and before the end of our voyage his lordship talked to me of a translation of Tasso in which he is engaged, and a stanza47 or two of which he repeated to me. I really liked the lines, and liked too the simplicity48 and frankness with which he spoke49 of it to me a stranger, and the way be seemed to separate his egotism from the idea which he evidently had that he is going to make an excellent translation. I sincerely hope it may be so. He began it without any idea of publishing it, or of ever bringing it to a conclusion, but merely as a solace51 and occupation while in great trouble during an illness of his wife, but he has gradually come to find it the most absorbing occupation he ever undertook; and as Mr. Gladstone and other high authorities give him warm encouragement, he now means to translate the entire poem, and to publish it with beautiful illustrations, and two years hence the world may expect to see it. I do not quite perceive how such a man as this—a man of frank, warm, simple, kindly52 nature, but surely not of a poetical53 temperament54, or very refined, or highly cultivated—should make a good version of Tasso's poems; but perhaps the dead poet's soul may take possession of this healthy organization, and wholly turn him to its own purposes.
The latter part of our voyage to-day lay close along the coast of France, which was hilly and picturesque, and as we approached Marseilles was very bold and striking. We steered55 among rocky islands, rising abruptly56 out of the sea, mere50 naked crags, without a trace of verdure upon them, and with the surf breaking at their feet. They were unusual specimens of what hills would look like without the soil, that is to them what flesh is to a skeleton. Their shapes were often wonderfully fine, and the great headlands thrust themselves out, and took such lines of light and shade that it seemed like sailing through a picture. In the course of the afternoon a squall came up and blackened the sky all over in a twinkling; our vessel pitched and tossed, and a brig a little way from us had her sails blown about in wild fashion. The blue of the sea turned as black as night, and soon the rain began to spatter down upon us, and continued to sprinkle and drizzle57 a considerable time after the wind had subsided58. It was quite calm and pleasant when we entered the harbor of Marseilles, which lies at the foot of very fair hills, and is set among great cliffs of stone. I did not attend much to this, however, being in dread20 of the difficulty of landing and passing through the custom-house with our twelve or fourteen trunks and numberless carpet-bags. The trouble vanished into thin air, nevertheless, as we approached it, for not a single trunk or bag was opened, and, moreover, our luggage and ourselves were not only landed, but the greater part of it conveyed to the railway without any expense. Long live Louis Napoleon, say I. We established ourselves at the Hotel des Colonies, and then Mss S———, J——-, and I drove hither and thither59 about Marseilles, making arrangements for our journey to Avignon, where we mean to go to-day. We might have avoided a good deal of this annoyance60; but travellers, like other people, are continually getting their experience just a little too late. It was after nine before we got back to the hotel and took our tea in peace.
点击收听单词发音
1 fixed | |
adj.固定的,不变的,准备好的;(计算机)固定的 | |
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2 miserable | |
adj.悲惨的,痛苦的;可怜的,糟糕的 | |
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3 questionable | |
adj.可疑的,有问题的 | |
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4 enjoyments | |
愉快( enjoyment的名词复数 ); 令人愉快的事物; 享有; 享受 | |
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5 dreary | |
adj.令人沮丧的,沉闷的,单调乏味的 | |
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6 tract | |
n.传单,小册子,大片(土地或森林) | |
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7 desolate | |
adj.荒凉的,荒芜的;孤独的,凄凉的;v.使荒芜,使孤寂 | |
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8 fragrance | |
n.芬芳,香味,香气 | |
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9 refreshing | |
adj.使精神振作的,使人清爽的,使人喜欢的 | |
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10 interval | |
n.间隔,间距;幕间休息,中场休息 | |
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11 chuckled | |
轻声地笑( chuckle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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12 ineffable | |
adj.无法表达的,不可言喻的 | |
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13 quay | |
n.码头,靠岸处 | |
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14 bustle | |
v.喧扰地忙乱,匆忙,奔忙;n.忙碌;喧闹 | |
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15 seclusion | |
n.隐遁,隔离 | |
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16 berth | |
n.卧铺,停泊地,锚位;v.使停泊 | |
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17 ashore | |
adv.在(向)岸上,上岸 | |
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18 fully | |
adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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19 languor | |
n.无精力,倦怠 | |
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20 dread | |
vt.担忧,忧虑;惧怕,不敢;n.担忧,畏惧 | |
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21 dreaded | |
adj.令人畏惧的;害怕的v.害怕,恐惧,担心( dread的过去式和过去分词) | |
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22 hubbub | |
n.嘈杂;骚乱 | |
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23 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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24 awning | |
n.遮阳篷;雨篷 | |
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25 shipping | |
n.船运(发货,运输,乘船) | |
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26 cavalry | |
n.骑兵;轻装甲部队 | |
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27 gondolas | |
n.狭长小船( gondola的名词复数 );货架(一般指商店,例如化妆品店);吊船工作台 | |
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28 lighters | |
n.打火机,点火器( lighter的名词复数 ) | |
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29 transit | |
n.经过,运输;vt.穿越,旋转;vi.越过 | |
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30 vessel | |
n.船舶;容器,器皿;管,导管,血管 | |
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31 plunged | |
v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 );暴跌;骤降;突降 | |
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32 trumpet | |
n.喇叭,喇叭声;v.吹喇叭,吹嘘 | |
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33 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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34 worthies | |
应得某事物( worthy的名词复数 ); 值得做某事; 可尊敬的; 有(某人或事物)的典型特征 | |
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35 Christian | |
adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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36 Mediterranean | |
adj.地中海的;地中海沿岸的 | |
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37 hue | |
n.色度;色调;样子 | |
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38 lustrous | |
adj.有光泽的;光辉的 | |
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39 picturesquely | |
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40 edifices | |
n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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41 fortresses | |
堡垒,要塞( fortress的名词复数 ) | |
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42 fortress | |
n.堡垒,防御工事 | |
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43 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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44 specimens | |
n.样品( specimen的名词复数 );范例;(化验的)抽样;某种类型的人 | |
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45 kindled | |
(使某物)燃烧,着火( kindle的过去式和过去分词 ); 激起(感情等); 发亮,放光 | |
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46 reverberated | |
回响,回荡( reverberate的过去式和过去分词 ); 使反响,使回荡,使反射 | |
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47 stanza | |
n.(诗)节,段 | |
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48 simplicity | |
n.简单,简易;朴素;直率,单纯 | |
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49 spoke | |
n.(车轮的)辐条;轮辐;破坏某人的计划;阻挠某人的行动 v.讲,谈(speak的过去式);说;演说;从某种观点来说 | |
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50 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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51 solace | |
n.安慰;v.使快乐;vt.安慰(物),缓和 | |
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52 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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53 poetical | |
adj.似诗人的;诗一般的;韵文的;富有诗意的 | |
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54 temperament | |
n.气质,性格,性情 | |
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55 steered | |
v.驾驶( steer的过去式和过去分词 );操纵;控制;引导 | |
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56 abruptly | |
adv.突然地,出其不意地 | |
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57 drizzle | |
v.下毛毛雨;n.毛毛雨,蒙蒙细雨 | |
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58 subsided | |
v.(土地)下陷(因在地下采矿)( subside的过去式和过去分词 );减弱;下降至较低或正常水平;一下子坐在椅子等上 | |
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59 thither | |
adv.向那里;adj.在那边的,对岸的 | |
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60 annoyance | |
n.恼怒,生气,烦恼 | |
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