As a matter of fact, the harsh and terrible realities of the situation in Russia cannot be camouflaged5. In the case of special delegations6, perhaps, a certain distracting tumult7 of receptions, bands, and speeches may be possible, and may be attempted. But it is hardly possible to dress up two large cities for the benefit of two stray visitors, wandering observantly often in different directions. 17Naturally, when one demands to see a school or a prison one is not shown the worst. Any country would in the circumstances show the best it had, and Soviet8 Russia is no exception. One can allow for that.
Our dominant9 impression of things Russian is an impression of a vast irreparable breakdown10. The great monarchy11 that was here in 1914 and the administrative12, social, financial, and commercial systems connected with it have, under the strains of six years of incessant13 war, fallen down and smashed utterly14. Never in all history has there been so great a débacle before. The fact of the Revolution is, to our minds, altogether dwarfed15 by the fact of this downfall. By its own inherent rottenness and by the thrusts and strains of aggressive imperialism16 the Russian part of the old civilised world that existed before 1914 fell, and is now gone. The peasant, who was the base of the old pyramid, remains17 upon the land, living very much as he has always lived. Everything else is broken down, or is breaking down. Amid this vast disorganisation 18an emergency Government, supported by a disciplined party of perhaps 150,000 adherents—the Communist Party—has taken control. It has—at the price of much shooting—suppressed brigandage19, established a sort of order and security in the exhausted20 towns, and set up a crude rationing21 system.
It is, I would say at once, the only possible Government in Russia at the present time. It is the only idea, it supplies the only solidarity23, left in Russia. But it is a secondary fact. The dominant fact for the Western reader, the threatening and disconcerting fact, is that a social and economic system very like our own and intimately connected with our own has crashed.
Nowhere in all Russia is the fact of that crash so completely evident as it is in Petersburg. Petersburg was the artificial creation of Peter the Great; his bronze statue in the little garden near the Admiralty still prances24 amid the ebbing25 life of the city. Its palaces are still and empty, or strangely refurnished with the typewriters and tables and plank26 partitions of a new Administration 19which is engaged chiefly in a strenuous27 struggle against famine and the foreign invader28. Its streets were streets of busy shops. In 1914 I loafed agreeably in the Petersburg streets—buying little articles and watching the abundant traffic. All these shops have ceased. There are perhaps half a dozen shops still open in Petersburg. There is a Government crockery shop where I bought a plate or so as a souvenir, for seven or eight hundred roubles each, and there are a few flower shops. It is a wonderful fact, I think, that in this city, in which most of the shrinking population is already nearly starving, and hardly any one possesses a second suit of clothes or more than a single change of worn and patched linen30, flowers can be and are still bought and sold. For five thousand roubles, which is about six and eightpence at the current rate of exchange, one can get a very pleasing bunch of big chrysanthemums31.
I do not know if the words “all the shops have ceased” convey any picture to the Western reader of what a street looks like 20in Russia. It is not like Bond Street or Piccadilly on a Sunday, with the blinds neatly32 drawn33 down in a decorous sleep, and ready to wake up and begin again on Monday. The shops have an utterly wretched and abandoned look; paint is peeling off, windows are cracked, some are broken and boarded up, some still display a few flyblown relics34 of stock in the window, some have their windows covered with notices; the windows are growing dim, the fixtures35 have gathered two years’ dust. They are dead shops. They will never open again.
All the great bazaar-like markets are closed, too, in Petersburg now, in the desperate struggle to keep a public control of necessities and prevent the profiteer driving up the last vestiges36 of food to incredible prices. And this cessation of shops makes walking about the streets seem a silly sort of thing to do. Nobody “walks about” any more. One realises that a modern city is really nothing but long alleys37 of shops and restaurants and the like. Shut them up, and the meaning of a street has disappeared. 21People hurry past—a thin traffic compared with my memories of 1914. The electric street cars are still running and busy—until six o’clock. They are the only means of locomotion38 for ordinary people remaining in town—the last legacy39 of capitalist enterprise. They became free while we were in Petersburg. Previously40 there had been a charge of two or three roubles—the hundredth part of the price of an egg. Freeing them made little difference in their extreme congestion41 during the home-going hours. Every one scrambles42 on the tramcar. If there is no room inside you cluster outside. In the busy hours festoons of people hang outside by any handhold; people are frequently pushed off, and accidents are frequent. We saw a crowd collected round a child cut in half by a tramcar, and two people in the little circle in which we moved in Petersburg had broken their legs in tramway accidents.
The roads along which these tramcars run are in a frightful43 condition. They have not been repaired for three or four years; they 22are full of holes like shell-holes, often two or three feet deep. Frost has eaten out great cavities, drains have collapsed44, and people have torn up the wood pavement for fires. Only once did we see any attempt to repair the streets in Petrograd. In a side street some mysterious agency had collected a load of wood blocks and two barrels of tar29. Most of our longer journeys about the town were done in official motor-cars—left over from the former times. A drive is an affair of tremendous swerves46 and concussions47. These surviving motor-cars are running now on kerosene48. They disengage clouds of pale blue smoke, and start up with a noise like a machine-gun battle. Every wooden house was demolished49 for firing last winter, and such masonry50 as there was in those houses remains in ruinous gaps, between the houses of stone.
24
STREET SCENERY IN PETERSBURG.
MR. WELLS DISCOVERS A STREET UNDER REPAIR.
25Every one is shabby; every one seems to be carrying bundles in both Petersburg and Moscow. To walk into some side street in the twilight51 and see nothing but ill-clad figures, all hurrying, all carrying loads, gives one an impression as though the entire population was setting out in flight. That impression is not altogether misleading. The Bolshevik statistics I have seen are perfectly52 frank and honest in the matter. The population of Petersburg has fallen from 1,200,000 to a little over 700,000, and it is still falling. Many of the people have returned to peasant life in the country, many have gone abroad, but hardship has taken an enormous toll53 of this city. The death-rate in Petersburg is over 81 per 1,000; formerly54 it was high among European cities at 22. The birth-rate of the underfed and profoundly depressed55 population is about 15. It was formerly about 30.
These bundles that every one carries are partly the rations56 of food that are doled57 out by the Soviet organisation18, partly they are the material and results of illicit58 trade. The Russian population has always been a trading and bargaining population. Even in 1914 there were but few shops in Petersburg whose prices were really fixed59 prices. Tariffs60 were abominated61; in Moscow taking 26a droshky meant always a haggle62, ten kopecks at a time. Confronted with a shortage of nearly every commodity, a shortage caused partly by the war strain,—for Russia has been at war continuously now for six years—partly by the general collapse45 of social organisation, and partly by the blockade, and with a currency in complete disorder63, the only possible way to save the towns from a chaos64 of cornering, profiteering, starvation, and at last a mere65 savage66 fight for the remnants of food and common necessities, was some sort of collective control and rationing.
The Soviet Government rations on principle, but any Government in Russia now would have to ration22. If the war in the West had lasted up to the present time London would be rationing too—food, clothing, and housing. But in Russia this has to be done on a basis of uncontrollable peasant production, with a population temperamentally indisciplined and self-indulgent. The struggle is necessarily a bitter one. The detected profiteer, the genuine profiteer who 27profiteers on any considerable scale, gets short shrift; he is shot. Quite ordinary trading may be punished severely67. All trading is called “speculation,” and is now illegal. But a queer street-corner trading in food and so forth68 is winked69 at in Petersburg, and quite openly practised in Moscow, because only by permitting this can the peasants be induced to bring in food.
There is also much underground trade between buyers and sellers who know each other. Every one who can supplements his public rations in this way. And every railway station at which one stops is an open market. We would find a crowd of peasants at every stopping-place waiting to sell milk, eggs, apples, bread, and so forth. The passengers clamber down and accumulate bundles. An egg or an apple costs 300 roubles.
The peasants look well fed, and I doubt if they are very much worse off than they were in 1914. Probably they are better off. They have more land than they had, and they have got rid of their landlords. They will not help in any attempt to overthrow70 28the Soviet Government because they are convinced that while it endures this state of things will continue. This does not prevent their resisting whenever they can the attempts of the Red Guards to collect food at regulation prices. Insufficient71 forces of Red Guards may be attacked and massacred. Such incidents are magnified in the London Press as peasant insurrections against the Bolsheviks. They are nothing of the sort. It is just the peasants making themselves comfortable under the existing régime.
But every class above the peasants—including the official class—is now in a state of extreme privation. The credit and industrial system that produced commodities has broken down, and so far the attempts to replace it by some other form of production have been ineffective. So that nowhere are there any new things. About the only things that seem to be fairly well supplied are tea, cigarettes, and matches. Matches are more abundant in Russia than they were in England in 1917, and the Soviet State match is quite a good match. But such things as 29collars, ties, shoelaces, sheets and blankets, spoons and forks, all the haberdashery and crockery of life, are unattainable. There is no replacing a broken cup or glass except by a sedulous72 search and illegal trading. From Petersburg to Moscow we were given a sleeping car de luxe, but there were no water-bottles, glasses, or, indeed, any loose fittings. They have all gone. Most of the men one meets strike one at first as being carelessly shaven, and at first we were inclined to regard that as a sign of a general apathy73, but we understood better how things were when a friend mentioned to my son quite casually74 that he had been using one safety razor blade for nearly a year.
Drugs and any medicines are equally unattainable. There is nothing to take for a cold or a headache; no packing off to bed with a hot-water bottle. Small ailments75 develop very easily therefore into serious trouble. Nearly everybody we met struck us as being uncomfortable and a little out of health. A buoyant, healthy person is 30very rare in this atmosphere of discomforts76 and petty deficiencies.
If any one falls into a real illness the outlook is grim. My son paid a visit to the big Obuchovskaya Hospital, and he tells me things were very miserable77 there indeed. There was an appalling78 lack of every sort of material, and half the beds were not in use through the sheer impossibility of dealing79 with more patients if they came in. Strengthening and stimulating80 food is out of the question unless the patient’s family can by some miracle procure81 it outside and send it in. Operations are performed only on one day in the week, Dr. Federoff told me, when the necessary preparations can be made. On other days they are impossible, and the patient must wait.
Hardly any one in Petersburg has much more than a change of raiment, and in a great city in which there remains no means of communication but a few overcrowded tramcars,[1] old, leaky, and ill-fitting boots 31are the only footwear. At times one sees astonishing makeshifts by way of costume. The master of a school to which we paid a surprise visit struck me as unusually dapper. He was wearing a dinner suit with a blue serge waistcoat. Several of the distinguished82 scientific and literary men I met had no collars and wore neck-wraps. Gorky possesses only the one suit of clothes he wears.
1. I saw one passenger steamboat on the Neva crowded with passengers. Usually the river was quite deserted83 except for a rare Government tug84 or a solitary85 boatman picking up drift timber.
At a gathering86 of literary people in Petersburg, Mr. Amphiteatroff, the well-known writer, addressed a long and bitter speech to me. He suffered from the usual delusion87 that I was blind and stupid and being hoodwinked. He was for taking off the respectable-looking coats of all the company present in order that I might see for myself the rags and tatters and pitiful expedients88 beneath. It was a painful and, so far as I was concerned, an unnecessary speech, but I quote it here to emphasise89 this effect of general destitution90. And this underclad town population in this dismantled91 and ruinous city is, in spite of all the furtive92 32trading that goes on, appallingly93 underfed. With the best will in the world the Soviet Government is unable to produce a sufficient ration to sustain a healthy life. We went to a district kitchen and saw the normal food distribution going on. The place seemed to us fairly clean and fairly well run, but that does not compensate94 for a lack of material. The lowest grade ration consisted of a basinful of thin skilly and about the same quantity of stewed95 apple compote. People have bread cards and wait in queues for bread, but for three days the Petersburg bakeries stopped for lack of flour. The bread varies greatly in quality; some was good coarse brown bread, and some I found damp, clay-like, and uneatable.
33
A PETERSBURG STREET CAR EN ROUTE.
MESSRS. LENIN AND WELLS IN CONVERSATION.
35I do not know how far these disconnected details will suffice to give the Western reader an idea of what ordinary life in Petersburg is at the present time. Moscow, they say, is more overcrowded and shorter of fuel than Petersburg, but superficially it looked far less grim than Petersburg. We saw these things in October, in a particularly fine and warm October. We saw them in sunshine in a setting of ruddy and golden foliage96. But one day there came a chill, and the yellow leaves went whirling before a drive of snowflakes. It was the first breath of the coming winter. Every one shivered and looked out of the double windows—already sealed up—and talked to us of the previous year. Then the glow of October returned.
It was still glorious sunshine when we left Russia. But when I think of that coming winter my heart sinks. The Soviet Government in the commune of the north has made extraordinary efforts to prepare for the time of need. There are piles of wood along the quays97, along the middle of the main streets, in the courtyards, and everywhere where wood can be piled. Last year many people had to live in rooms below the freezing point; the water-pipes froze up, the sanitary98 machinery99 ceased to work. The reader must imagine the consequences. People huddled100 together in the ill-lit rooms, and kept themselves alive with tea and talk. 36Presently some Russian novelist will tell us all that this has meant to heart and mind in Russia. This year it may not be quite so bad as that. The food situation also, they say, is better, but this I very much doubt. The railways are now in an extreme state of deterioration101; the wood-stoked engines are wearing out; the bolts start and the rails shift as the trains rumble102 along at a maximum of twenty-five miles per hour. Even were the railways more efficient, Wrangel has got hold of the southern food supplies. Soon the cold rain will be falling upon these 700,000 souls still left in Petersburg, and then the snow. The long nights extend and the daylight dwindles103.
And this spectacle of misery104 and ebbing energy is, you will say, the result of Bolshevist rule! I do not believe it is. I will deal with the Bolshevist Government when I have painted the general scenery of our problem. But let me say here that this desolate105 Russia is not a system that has been attacked and destroyed by something vigorous and malignant106. It is an unsound system that has 37worked itself out and fallen down. It was not communism which built up these great, impossible cities, but capitalism107. It was not communism that plunged108 this huge, creaking, bankrupt empire into six years of exhausting war. It was European imperialism. Nor is it communism that has pestered109 this suffering and perhaps dying Russia with a series of subsidised raids, invasions, and insurrections, and inflicted110 upon it an atrocious blockade. The vindictive111 French creditor112, the journalistic British oaf, are far more responsible for these deathbed miseries113 than any communist. But to these questions I will return after I have given a little more description of Russia as we saw it during our visit. It is only when one has some conception of the physical and mental realities of the Russian collapse that we can see and estimate the Bolshevist Government in its proper proportions.
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1
delegation
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| n.代表团；派遣 | |
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maxim
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| n.格言，箴言 | |
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imprisoned
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| 下狱，监禁( imprison的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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camouflage
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| n./v.掩饰，伪装 | |
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camouflaged
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| v.隐蔽( camouflage的过去式和过去分词 )；掩盖；伪装，掩饰 | |
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delegations
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| n.代表团( delegation的名词复数 )；委托，委派 | |
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tumult
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| n.喧哗；激动，混乱；吵闹 | |
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Soviet
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| adj.苏联的，苏维埃的；n.苏维埃 | |
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dominant
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| adj.支配的，统治的；占优势的；显性的；n.主因，要素，主要的人(或物)；显性基因 | |
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breakdown
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| n.垮，衰竭；损坏，故障，倒塌 | |
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monarchy
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| n.君主，最高统治者；君主政体，君主国 | |
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administrative
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| adj.行政的，管理的 | |
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incessant
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| adj.不停的，连续的 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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dwarfed
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| vt.（使）显得矮小（dwarf的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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imperialism
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| n.帝国主义，帝国主义政策 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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organisation
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| n.组织，安排，团体，有机休 | |
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brigandage
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| n.抢劫；盗窃；土匪；强盗 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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rationing
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| n.定量供应 | |
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ration
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| n.定量(pl.)给养，口粮；vt.定量供应 | |
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solidarity
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| n.团结；休戚相关 | |
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prances
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| v.（马）腾跃( prance的第三人称单数 ) | |
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ebbing
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| （指潮水）退( ebb的现在分词 )； 落； 减少； 衰落 | |
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plank
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| n.板条，木板，政策要点，政纲条目 | |
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strenuous
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| adj.奋发的，使劲的；紧张的；热烈的，狂热的 | |
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invader
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| n.侵略者，侵犯者，入侵者 | |
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tar
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| n.柏油，焦油；vt.涂或浇柏油/焦油于 | |
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linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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chrysanthemums
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| n.菊花( chrysanthemum的名词复数 ) | |
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neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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fixtures
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| （房屋等的）固定装置( fixture的名词复数 )； 如（浴盆、抽水马桶）； 固定在某位置的人或物； （定期定点举行的）体育活动 | |
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vestiges
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| 残余部分( vestige的名词复数 )； 遗迹； 痕迹； 毫不 | |
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alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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locomotion
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| n.运动，移动 | |
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legacy
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| n.遗产，遗赠；先人(或过去)留下的东西 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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congestion
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| n.阻塞，消化不良 | |
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scrambles
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| n.抢夺( scramble的名词复数 )v.快速爬行( scramble的第三人称单数 )；攀登；争夺；（军事飞机）紧急起飞 | |
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frightful
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| adj.可怕的；讨厌的 | |
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collapsed
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| adj.倒塌的 | |
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collapse
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| vi.累倒；昏倒；倒塌；塌陷 | |
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swerves
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| n.（使）改变方向，改变目的( swerve的名词复数 )v.（使）改变方向，改变目的( swerve的第三人称单数 ) | |
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concussions
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| n.震荡( concussion的名词复数 )；脑震荡；冲击；震动 | |
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kerosene
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| n.(kerosine)煤油，火油 | |
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demolished
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| v.摧毁( demolish的过去式和过去分词 )；推翻；拆毁（尤指大建筑物）；吃光 | |
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masonry
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| n.砖土建筑；砖石 | |
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twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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toll
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| n.过路(桥)费；损失，伤亡人数；v.敲(钟) | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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depressed
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| adj.沮丧的，抑郁的，不景气的，萧条的 | |
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rations
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| 定量( ration的名词复数 )； 配给量； 正常量； 合理的量 | |
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doled
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| 救济物( dole的过去式和过去分词 )； 失业救济金 | |
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illicit
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| adj.非法的，禁止的，不正当的 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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tariffs
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| 关税制度； 关税( tariff的名词复数 )； 关税表； （旅馆或饭店等的）收费表； 量刑标准 | |
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abominated
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| v.憎恶，厌恶，不喜欢( abominate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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haggle
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| vi.讨价还价，争论不休 | |
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disorder
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| n.紊乱，混乱；骚动，骚乱；疾病，失调 | |
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chaos
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| n.混乱，无秩序 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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winked
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| v.使眼色( wink的过去式和过去分词 )；递眼色（表示友好或高兴等）；（指光）闪烁；闪亮 | |
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overthrow
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| v.推翻，打倒，颠覆；n.推翻，瓦解，颠覆 | |
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insufficient
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| adj.(for，of)不足的，不够的 | |
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sedulous
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| adj.勤勉的，努力的 | |
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apathy
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| n.漠不关心，无动于衷；冷淡 | |
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casually
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| adv.漠不关心地，无动于衷地，不负责任地 | |
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ailments
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| 疾病（尤指慢性病），不适( ailment的名词复数 ) | |
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discomforts
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| n.不舒适( discomfort的名词复数 )；不愉快，苦恼 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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appalling
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| adj.骇人听闻的，令人震惊的，可怕的 | |
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dealing
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| n.经商方法，待人态度 | |
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stimulating
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| adj.有启发性的，能激发人思考的 | |
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procure
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| vt.获得，取得，促成；vi.拉皮条 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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tug
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| v.用力拖(或拉)；苦干；n.拖；苦干；拖船 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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delusion
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| n.谬见，欺骗，幻觉，迷惑 | |
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expedients
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| n.应急有效的，权宜之计的( expedient的名词复数 ) | |
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emphasise
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| vt.加强...的语气，强调，着重 | |
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destitution
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| n.穷困，缺乏，贫穷 | |
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dismantled
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| 拆开( dismantle的过去式和过去分词 )； 拆卸； 废除； 取消 | |
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furtive
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| adj.鬼鬼崇崇的，偷偷摸摸的 | |
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appallingly
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| 毛骨悚然地 | |
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compensate
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| vt.补偿，赔偿；酬报 vi.弥补；补偿；抵消 | |
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stewed
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| adj.焦虑不安的，烂醉的v.炖( stew的过去式和过去分词 )；煨；思考；担忧 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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quays
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| 码头( quay的名词复数 ) | |
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sanitary
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| adj.卫生方面的，卫生的，清洁的，卫生的 | |
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machinery
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| n.(总称)机械，机器；机构 | |
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huddled
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| 挤在一起（huddle的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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deterioration
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| n.退化；恶化；变坏 | |
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rumble
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| n.隆隆声；吵嚷；v.隆隆响；低沉地说 | |
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dwindles
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| v.逐渐变少或变小( dwindle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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malignant
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| adj.恶性的，致命的；恶意的，恶毒的 | |
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capitalism
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| n.资本主义 | |
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plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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pestered
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| 使烦恼，纠缠( pester的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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inflicted
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| 把…强加给，使承受，遭受( inflict的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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vindictive
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| adj.有报仇心的，怀恨的，惩罚的 | |
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112
creditor
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| n.债仅人，债主，贷方 | |
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113
miseries
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| n.痛苦( misery的名词复数 )；痛苦的事；穷困；常发牢骚的人 | |
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