The idea has little attraction, because, frankly10, I like the London public-house, just as I like the Paris café and the German beer-hall. I do not see why we should make our public-houses into Parisian cafés, for our needs differ from those of Parisians, and we do not, among other things, visit public-houses to play dominoes or to read The Spectator. Men go to public-houses to drink, either because they are thirsty, or because they like drink. Notably11, the working man goes there to be rid of that wife and family of which he sees quite enough. I know it is difficult for the well-to-do man, whose house contains ten rooms, who has a private room at his office, and a sulking chair at his club, to understand that the working man, who generally lives in two rooms with several children and the scented13 memory of many meals, should want to escape this felicitous14 atmosphere. It may also strike him as strange that the working man should not, after38 a ten-hour day, relish15 ‘a good, brisk walk.’ Also, he does not realise that ours is not yet a kid-glove civilisation16, and that most of our working people like the sensual life. Being Anglo-Saxons, they are largely impervious17 to art, and rather crude in love; so their sensuality finds an outlet18 in drink. You may deplore19 this sensuality, but it is no use trying to stem it by making distasteful the conditions under which it is indulged; the way to stem it is to make a change in the creature, by treating it as a man, by paying it as a citizen, and by granting it justice instead of favour, education instead of teaching.
A new English people will make a new public-house; to-day, they have the public-house they deserve, and it is not such an evil place as some like to make out. Pellucid20 reader, have you ever visited The Green Man? The Red Lion? or The Bedford Head? Do you know the brew21 of The Warrington and The Horseshoe’s chop? I like their busy bars, so cunningly stratified into public bar, private bar, and saloon. They are a microcosm of English society, where everybody keeps himself to himself, where every class is defiled22 by every other class because the one beneath is ‘low,’ and the one above ‘stuck up.’ In England, classes barely establish internal toleration. There are few equals inside classes. One either looks up or looks down, and one never looks at. But in public-houses a rude toleration does exist. They are not unattractive, for rough friendship is included by every barmaid in the ‘gin and peach.’ One talks to people one does not know. If one stays, one may hear the history of their life. Nor are all public-houses ugly; there is a Dickensian, a Jacobean charm in the dazzle of their many glasses, in their piling bottles, their ash-trays presented by the brewer23, their match-stands, a gift from the distiller, in the portraits of horses and dogs that proclaim the virtues24 of Johnny Walker, and Black and White. ?sthetically speaking, these articles are ugly, but they have a certain joviality25 which is not disagreeable.
THE PUB
It is a mistake to think that public-houses are all alike. No two places are alike; not even Lyons’s depots26 are all alike, for39 the personality of the manageress reveals itself, say in strange arrangements of salt-cellars. The casual visitor may not find much difference between The Red Lion in the Harrow Road, The Hero of Maida, Bricklayers’ Arms, or The Archway, and I will not stress it. But it would need a more than casual observer to overlook the spacious27 cleanliness of The Warrington, and its rather Victorian air of solid comfort; should he go to Rule’s, or The Cheshire Cheese, he will be obsessed28 by the domestic fustiness of places that have escaped renovation29 for a century. Those old taverns30 reveal a London little older than fifty years, when no Ritz-Carltons were open, when the young man could join no club until he was a middle-aged31 one, and when he ate his meals in his rooms in Bury Street off soiled mahogany. These old places are traditional, and their ale is traditional. I suspect that it is a secret blend of old ale and new ale, the new being poured into the old casks, thus ever inheriting and ever bequeathing the virtues of the family.
And other inns have their temperament32, which is that of their customers. Thus, at the public-houses of London Wall, as also at Coates’s Wine Bar, you never get away from the sense of business. These places are friendly, but wary33. Likewise, at The Cock, in Fleet Street, there is more noise and less wariness34, because here is an exchange for news, and occasionally for facts; farther on, at Shirreff’s, the attraction is sound wine under sound arches. Shirreff’s clientèle numbers rather obese35 people who know how to treat a glass of port. Thus should you treat a glass of port: let the glass be not quite full, so that the holy wine may have space in which to unwind its lovely surface; raise the glass, holding its stem so that the fingers may not break the amber36 oval of its form; then raise it to the level of the eyes, so that the pale light of the city may stream through that rich amber, and emerge transfigured; draw closer; respectfully breathe in the soft, insidious37 scent12 that rises to your nostrils38 like a prayer. Then only, when the golden ghost has spoken to all senses save that of taste, drink, and drink slowly, without haste, with respect, not as a vulgar man, thirsty, but as a man without thirst, and risen over40 such necessity. Thus only shall you be companions of Amarante, Miranda, and Sabor.
If all drank with such elegance39 we might hear less of public-house reform. Of late years, attempts have been made to humanise the public-house; the first result has been to make it inhuman40. I lead no attack upon the Public-House Trust and the People’s Refreshment41 House Association. They are excellent bodies, and once upon a time I supported them, but as I grow older, I think I grow more depraved. I know it is not pleasant to see people drunk, though some are still more unpleasant when they are sober; I do not support the public-house in selling last week’s sandwiches and last year’s cheddar, but still ... ale that hath no sting ... and leadless glaze42! Instinct wars with my reason; I see the public-houses grow more civilised, and a faint regret creeps over me that good intentions should get into beer.
It is true that at the other end of the scale luxury fights with good intentions and produces, well, not the abomination of desolation, but the greater abomination of delectation in the shape of the American bar. Already a young civilisation has produced its first-fruits, such as broncho busting43, college yells, and cinema rides; already poets quaff7 from the foaming soda44-fountain in Hippocrene City, Pa. (or possibly Minn.), and in the friendly bowl mix the cocktail45. Magic word, eloquent46 in form! I cannot express what I owe to the cocktail: it provides half of what a dinner party needs, for it stimulates47 conversation. The other half is provided by bridge, for it stops this conversation. The power of the cocktail is not that of the pure in heart; it is a complex, a modern; it is a congress of alcohols; nothing is alien to it; nothing can hallow it; nothing can resist its repeated assaults. With all drinks it has affinity48. It carries the bar sinister49 of all liqueurs. Bitters and cura?ao, whisky and maraschino, brandy, vermouth and cassis, Fernet Branca, gentle raspberry, all of these; and crème de menthe, and gin, and absinthe, and apple-jack, these, too, are of its fiery50 soul, and apricot brandy that is like a blush, sherry like a burnt topaz, paprika to make you leap, and sly benedictine, dancing anisette, and port like a41 minor51 canon, gins from Plymouth, and Schiedam, virginal grenadine, all can join with all the fruits the world has ever known, cherry, lemon, tangerine52, olive, spray of tarragon too. And thus one begins a cocktail. Let your basis be gin; enlist53 vermouth; let bitter and maraschino creep in: behold54 Martini! But expel the vermouth to substitute apricot brandy: then you have Hungarian. But if for you gin has no fire, then let your mainstay be rye whisky: its allies, bitter and vermouth, and Manhattan for you appears. And others for you shall rise, soda cocktail and love tree, or silver fizz, or blagden punch ... or hot apple toddy. Treat not the cocktail rudely. Let all coalitions55 be gradual, and temper their fire with ground ice; then cast the whole in the silver mixer and shake, shake, shake. While you shake, meditate56.
In English bars they neither shake nor meditate; they drink too uncritically the expression of the brewer’s artistic57 temperament, and give forth58 too little of their own. But, still, they are pleasant enough, these bars, whether British, as the gloomily popular Leicester Lounge, or foreign as the Monico. They have all the well-bred indifference59 of the Englishman who asks you no questions because he seeks no answers, who makes no comments because he has nothing to say. You need, you pay, you are satisfied, you go. There is no revelry. For true revelry, the glass that sparkles and the jug60 that foams61, you must go to some club at least a hundred years old, and in St James’s Street or Pall62 Mall, where ‘old man’ and ‘old thing’ know each other’s record and capacity, where, under an ancient roof, the prairie oyster63 revives the spirits that flagged in the Row. Watch the bow windows of some ancient club, and, while still holding that good wine needs no bush, confess that good wine gets it.
点击收听单词发音
1 dingy | |
adj.昏暗的,肮脏的 | |
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2 rave | |
vi.胡言乱语;热衷谈论;n.热情赞扬 | |
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3 passionately | |
ad.热烈地,激烈地 | |
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4 persuasion | |
n.劝说;说服;持有某种信仰的宗派 | |
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5 tracts | |
大片土地( tract的名词复数 ); 地带; (体内的)道; (尤指宣扬宗教、伦理或政治的)短文 | |
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6 quaffing | |
v.痛饮( quaff的现在分词 );畅饮;大口大口将…喝干;一饮而尽 | |
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7 quaff | |
v.一饮而尽;痛饮 | |
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8 foaming | |
adj.布满泡沫的;发泡 | |
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9 reconstruction | |
n.重建,再现,复原 | |
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10 frankly | |
adv.坦白地,直率地;坦率地说 | |
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11 notably | |
adv.值得注意地,显著地,尤其地,特别地 | |
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12 scent | |
n.气味,香味,香水,线索,嗅觉;v.嗅,发觉 | |
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13 scented | |
adj.有香味的;洒香水的;有气味的v.嗅到(scent的过去分词) | |
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14 felicitous | |
adj.恰当的,巧妙的;n.恰当,贴切 | |
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15 relish | |
n.滋味,享受,爱好,调味品;vt.加调味料,享受,品味;vi.有滋味 | |
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16 civilisation | |
n.文明,文化,开化,教化 | |
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17 impervious | |
adj.不能渗透的,不能穿过的,不易伤害的 | |
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18 outlet | |
n.出口/路;销路;批发商店;通风口;发泄 | |
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19 deplore | |
vt.哀叹,对...深感遗憾 | |
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20 pellucid | |
adj.透明的,简单的 | |
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21 brew | |
v.酿造,调制 | |
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22 defiled | |
v.玷污( defile的过去式和过去分词 );污染;弄脏;纵列行进 | |
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23 brewer | |
n. 啤酒制造者 | |
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24 virtues | |
美德( virtue的名词复数 ); 德行; 优点; 长处 | |
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25 joviality | |
n.快活 | |
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26 depots | |
仓库( depot的名词复数 ); 火车站; 车库; 军需库 | |
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27 spacious | |
adj.广阔的,宽敞的 | |
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28 obsessed | |
adj.心神不宁的,鬼迷心窍的,沉迷的 | |
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29 renovation | |
n.革新,整修 | |
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30 taverns | |
n.小旅馆,客栈,酒馆( tavern的名词复数 ) | |
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31 middle-aged | |
adj.中年的 | |
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32 temperament | |
n.气质,性格,性情 | |
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33 wary | |
adj.谨慎的,机警的,小心的 | |
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34 wariness | |
n. 注意,小心 | |
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35 obese | |
adj.过度肥胖的,肥大的 | |
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36 amber | |
n.琥珀;琥珀色;adj.琥珀制的 | |
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37 insidious | |
adj.阴险的,隐匿的,暗中为害的,(疾病)不知不觉之间加剧 | |
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38 nostrils | |
鼻孔( nostril的名词复数 ) | |
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39 elegance | |
n.优雅;优美,雅致;精致,巧妙 | |
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40 inhuman | |
adj.残忍的,不人道的,无人性的 | |
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41 refreshment | |
n.恢复,精神爽快,提神之事物;(复数)refreshments:点心,茶点 | |
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42 glaze | |
v.因疲倦、疲劳等指眼睛变得呆滞,毫无表情 | |
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43 busting | |
打破,打碎( bust的现在分词 ); 突击搜查(或搜捕); (使)降级,降低军阶 | |
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44 soda | |
n.苏打水;汽水 | |
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45 cocktail | |
n.鸡尾酒;餐前开胃小吃;混合物 | |
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46 eloquent | |
adj.雄辩的,口才流利的;明白显示出的 | |
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47 stimulates | |
v.刺激( stimulate的第三人称单数 );激励;使兴奋;起兴奋作用,起刺激作用,起促进作用 | |
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48 affinity | |
n.亲和力,密切关系 | |
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49 sinister | |
adj.不吉利的,凶恶的,左边的 | |
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50 fiery | |
adj.燃烧着的,火红的;暴躁的;激烈的 | |
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51 minor | |
adj.较小(少)的,较次要的;n.辅修学科;vi.辅修 | |
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52 tangerine | |
n.橘子,橘子树 | |
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53 enlist | |
vt.谋取(支持等),赢得;征募;vi.入伍 | |
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54 behold | |
v.看,注视,看到 | |
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55 coalitions | |
结合体,同盟( coalition的名词复数 ); (两党或多党)联合政府 | |
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56 meditate | |
v.想,考虑,(尤指宗教上的)沉思,冥想 | |
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57 artistic | |
adj.艺术(家)的,美术(家)的;善于艺术创作的 | |
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58 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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59 indifference | |
n.不感兴趣,不关心,冷淡,不在乎 | |
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60 jug | |
n.(有柄,小口,可盛水等的)大壶,罐,盂 | |
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61 foams | |
n.泡沫,泡沫材料( foam的名词复数 ) | |
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62 pall | |
v.覆盖,使平淡无味;n.柩衣,棺罩;棺材;帷幕 | |
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63 oyster | |
n.牡蛎;沉默寡言的人 | |
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