The further I traveled through the town the better I liked it. Every step revealed a new contrast—disclosed something I was unaccustomed to. In place of the grand mud-colored brown fronts of San Francisco, I saw dwellings10 built of straw, adobies, and cream-colored pebble-and-shell- conglomerated coral, cut into oblong blocks and laid in cement; also a great number of neat white cottages, with green window-shutters; in place of front yards like billiard-tables with iron fences around them, I saw these homes surrounded by ample yards, thickly clad with green grass, and shaded by tall trees, through whose dense11 foliage12 the sun could scarcely penetrate13; in place of the customary geranium, calla lily, etc., languishing14 in dust and general debility, I saw luxurious15 banks and thickets16 of flowers, fresh as a meadow after a rain, and glowing with the richest dyes; in place of the dingy17 horrors of San Francisco’s pleasure grove18, the “Willows,” I saw huge-bodied, wide-spreading forest trees, with strange names and stranger appearance—trees that cast a shadow like a thunder-cloud, and were able to stand alone without being tied to green poles; in place of gold fish, wiggling around in glass globes, assuming countless19 shades and degrees of distortion through the magnifying and diminishing qualities of their transparent20 prison houses, I saw cats—Tom-cats, Mary Ann cats, long-tailed cats, bob-tailed cats, blind cats, one-eyed cats, wall-eyed cats, cross-eyed cats, gray cats, black cats, white cats, yellow cats, striped cats, spotted21 cats, tame cats, wild cats, singed22 cats, individual cats, groups of cats, platoons of cats, companies of cats, regiments23 of cats, armies of cats, multitudes of cats, millions of cats, and all of them sleek24, fat, lazy and sound asleep. I looked on a multitude of people, some white, in white coats, vests, pantaloons, even white cloth shoes, made snowy with chalk duly laid on every morning; but the majority of the people were almost as dark as negroes—women with comely25 features, fine black eyes, rounded forms, inclining to the voluptuous26, clad in a single bright red or white garment that fell free and unconfined from shoulder to heel, long black hair falling loose, gypsy hats, encircled with wreaths of natural flowers of a brilliant carmine27 tint28; plenty of dark men in various costumes, and some with nothing on but a battered29 stove-pipe hat tilted30 on the nose, and a very scant31 breech-clout;—certain smoke-dried children were clothed in nothing but sunshine—a very neat fitting and picturesque32 apparel indeed.
In place of roughs and rowdies staring and blackguarding on the corners, I saw long-haired, saddle-colored Sandwich Island maidens33 sitting on the ground in the shade of corner houses, gazing indolently at whatever or whoever happened along; instead of wretched cobble-stone pavements, I walked on a firm foundation of coral, built up from the bottom of the sea by the absurd but persevering34 insect of that name, with a light layer of lava35 and cinders36 overlying the coral, belched37 up out of fathomless38 perdition long ago through the seared and blackened crater39 that stands dead and harmless in the distance now; instead of cramped40 and crowded street-cars, I met dusky native women sweeping41 by, free as the wind, on fleet horses and astride, with gaudy42 riding-sashes, streaming like banners behind them; instead of the combined stenches of Chinadom and Brannan street slaughter-houses, I breathed the balmy fragrance43 of jessamine, oleander, and the Pride of India; in place of the hurry and bustle44 and noisy confusion of San Francisco, I moved in the midst of a Summer calm as tranquil45 as dawn in the Garden of Eden; in place of the Golden City’s skirting sand hills and the placid46 bay, I saw on the one side a frame-work of tall, precipitous mountains close at hand, clad in refreshing47 green, and cleft48 by deep, cool, chasm-like valleys—and in front the grand sweep of the ocean; a brilliant, transparent green near the shore, bound and bordered by a long white line of foamy49 spray dashing against the reef, and further out the dead blue water of the deep sea, flecked with “white caps,” and in the far horizon a single, lonely sail—a mere50 accent-mark to emphasize a slumberous51 calm and a solitude that were without sound or limit. When the sun sunk down—the one intruder from other realms and persistent52 in suggestions of them—it was tranced luxury to sit in the perfumed air and forget that there was any world but these enchanted53 islands.
It was such ecstacy to dream, and dream—till you got a bite. A scorpion54 bite. Then the first duty was to get up out of the grass and kill the scorpion; and the next to bathe the bitten place with alcohol or brandy; and the next to resolve to keep out of the grass in future. Then came an adjournment55 to the bed-chamber and the pastime of writing up the day’s journal with one hand and the destruction of mosquitoes with the other—a whole community of them at a slap. Then, observing an enemy approaching,—a hairy tarantula on stilts—why not set the spittoon on him? It is done, and the projecting ends of his paws give a luminous56 idea of the magnitude of his reach. Then to bed and become a promenade57 for a centipede with forty-two legs on a side and every foot hot enough to burn a hole through a raw-hide. More soaking with alcohol, and a resolution to examine the bed before entering it, in future. Then wait, and suffer, till all the mosquitoes in the neighborhood have crawled in under the bar, then slip out quickly, shut them in and sleep peacefully on the floor till morning. Meantime it is comforting to curse the tropics in occasional wakeful intervals58.
We had an abundance of fruit in Honolulu, of course. Oranges, pine- apples, bananas, strawberries, lemons, limes, mangoes, guavas, melons, and a rare and curious luxury called the chirimoya, which is deliciousness itself. Then there is the tamarind. I thought tamarinds were made to eat, but that was probably not the idea. I ate several, and it seemed to me that they were rather sour that year. They pursed up my lips, till they resembled the stem-end of a tomato, and I had to take my sustenance59 through a quill60 for twenty-four hours.
They sharpened my teeth till I could have shaved with them, and gave them a “wire edge” that I was afraid would stay; but a citizen said “no, it will come off when the enamel61 does”—which was comforting, at any rate. I found, afterward62, that only strangers eat tamarinds—but they only eat them once.
点击收听单词发音
1 watery | |
adj.有水的,水汪汪的;湿的,湿润的 | |
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2 solitude | |
n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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3 imposing | |
adj.使人难忘的,壮丽的,堂皇的,雄伟的 | |
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4 promontory | |
n.海角;岬 | |
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5 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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6 softened | |
(使)变软( soften的过去式和过去分词 ); 缓解打击; 缓和; 安慰 | |
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7 hazy | |
adj.有薄雾的,朦胧的;不肯定的,模糊的 | |
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8 plumed | |
饰有羽毛的 | |
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9 crooked | |
adj.弯曲的;不诚实的,狡猾的,不正当的 | |
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10 dwellings | |
n.住处,处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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11 dense | |
a.密集的,稠密的,浓密的;密度大的 | |
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12 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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13 penetrate | |
v.透(渗)入;刺入,刺穿;洞察,了解 | |
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14 languishing | |
a. 衰弱下去的 | |
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15 luxurious | |
adj.精美而昂贵的;豪华的 | |
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16 thickets | |
n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 );丛状物 | |
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17 dingy | |
adj.昏暗的,肮脏的 | |
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18 grove | |
n.林子,小树林,园林 | |
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19 countless | |
adj.无数的,多得不计其数的 | |
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20 transparent | |
adj.明显的,无疑的;透明的 | |
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21 spotted | |
adj.有斑点的,斑纹的,弄污了的 | |
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22 singed | |
v.浅表烧焦( singe的过去式和过去分词 );(毛发)燎,烧焦尖端[边儿] | |
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23 regiments | |
(军队的)团( regiment的名词复数 ); 大量的人或物 | |
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24 sleek | |
adj.光滑的,井然有序的;v.使光滑,梳拢 | |
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25 comely | |
adj.漂亮的,合宜的 | |
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26 voluptuous | |
adj.肉欲的,骄奢淫逸的 | |
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27 carmine | |
n.深红色,洋红色 | |
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28 tint | |
n.淡色,浅色;染发剂;vt.着以淡淡的颜色 | |
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29 battered | |
adj.磨损的;v.连续猛击;磨损 | |
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30 tilted | |
v. 倾斜的 | |
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31 scant | |
adj.不充分的,不足的;v.减缩,限制,忽略 | |
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32 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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33 maidens | |
处女( maiden的名词复数 ); 少女; 未婚女子; (板球运动)未得分的一轮投球 | |
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34 persevering | |
a.坚忍不拔的 | |
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35 lava | |
n.熔岩,火山岩 | |
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36 cinders | |
n.煤渣( cinder的名词复数 );炭渣;煤渣路;煤渣跑道 | |
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37 belched | |
v.打嗝( belch的过去式和过去分词 );喷出,吐出;打(嗝);嗳(气) | |
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38 fathomless | |
a.深不可测的 | |
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39 crater | |
n.火山口,弹坑 | |
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40 cramped | |
a.狭窄的 | |
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41 sweeping | |
adj.范围广大的,一扫无遗的 | |
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42 gaudy | |
adj.华而不实的;俗丽的 | |
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43 fragrance | |
n.芬芳,香味,香气 | |
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44 bustle | |
v.喧扰地忙乱,匆忙,奔忙;n.忙碌;喧闹 | |
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45 tranquil | |
adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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46 placid | |
adj.安静的,平和的 | |
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47 refreshing | |
adj.使精神振作的,使人清爽的,使人喜欢的 | |
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48 cleft | |
n.裂缝;adj.裂开的 | |
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49 foamy | |
adj.全是泡沫的,泡沫的,起泡沫的 | |
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50 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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51 slumberous | |
a.昏昏欲睡的 | |
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52 persistent | |
adj.坚持不懈的,执意的;持续的 | |
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53 enchanted | |
adj. 被施魔法的,陶醉的,入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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54 scorpion | |
n.蝎子,心黑的人,蝎子鞭 | |
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55 adjournment | |
休会; 延期; 休会期; 休庭期 | |
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56 luminous | |
adj.发光的,发亮的;光明的;明白易懂的;有启发的 | |
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57 promenade | |
n./v.散步 | |
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58 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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59 sustenance | |
n.食物,粮食;生活资料;生计 | |
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60 quill | |
n.羽毛管;v.给(织物或衣服)作皱褶 | |
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61 enamel | |
n.珐琅,搪瓷,瓷釉;(牙齿的)珐琅质 | |
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62 afterward | |
adv.后来;以后 | |
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