The pointer and the setter are the two universally recognized dogs for hunting game birds. As to which of the two is the better variety authorities differ, and much depends upon circumstances. For hot climates the pointer has more endurance than the setter, but he is also more tender and would suffer in a cold climate. Pointers do not require so careful training, and with sportsmen who are, as is the case with many, loose in their manner of training, a pointer will be a passably well behaved dog where, with the same laxity, a setter would be utterly1 worthless. As the value of a dog in hunting depends in such a great degree upon his proper understanding of the work in hand, and his prompt and faithful execution of the duties incumbent2 upon him, too much pains cannot be taken with his training.
PRELIMINARY TRAINING.
The education of sporting dogs should begin in earliest puppyhood. Unless they are early taught obedience3, it will be difficult to overcome this neglect by after training. His first lesson may be given with the aid of a piece of beef placed before him on a plate. Naturally he will evince an eagerness to obtain it. Prevent his doing so, by gently tapping him upon the head, at the same time cry, “toho!” By repeating this word each time you check his eagerness, he is taught to associate the slap with the word and to stop when the word is used. This makes the “point.” In a few moments after you must cry, “hie on,” and allow him to seize the meat. “Steady” is the next lesson, and consists in allowing him slowly to approach the plate as you keep repeating the word at short intervals5. When near the plate cry, “toho,” and never allow him to reach the meat until you give the command, “hie on!” When you wish him to break his point but not to “pitch in” to the meat, the command, “close on” should be used. Before he reaches the plate, cry, “toho,” and then, “hie on;” when he has pointed6, by “close on” he must understand that he is to move cautiously, and this he is taught by the oft repeated command of “steady.” All these commands may be taught with patience, and patience is absolutely necessary. No harshness should be used, and no new lesson should be attempted until the old one is fully7 mastered. You should always feed the dog yourself.
When the preceding lessons are thoroughly8 acquired, 74“charge” may be taught. Gently force him down as you give the command, extend his fore4 paws and gently place his head between them. Each time he moves, tap him lightly and repeat the command. No more force should be used than is absolutely requisite9. Practice him frequently by crying, “charge—charge,” with your hand upraised, and forcing him into the desired position. To make him rise, you should cry, “hie up,” and gently raise him. Repeat these instructions until they are fully understood and readily obeyed, doing a little each day, but doing that thoroughly.
To retrieve10 is the next lesson to be taught. An old glove or other soft substance should be used, and after allowing the pup to play with it, toss it from you and he will rush to get it. Call him to you after he has got it, and take it from him, rewarding him with caresses11 and kind words. Repeat this plan using the command, “hie fetch,” when you wish him to go, and “come in,” when you wish him to return. By using the command, “come in,” on all occasions when he is a little distance from you—when you call him to feed him—etc., he will learn to obey it. Hooper in his excellent work[1] gives the following directions for teaching a dog to retrieve: “Begin by placing your glove within his mouth, making him retain it; if he rejects it, replace it, gently correcting him, crying, ‘fetch! fetch!’ After he understands the meaning of the word fetch you may let him accompany you in a walk, in some quiet place. Whenever he drops the glove you must gently and encouragingly replace it, crying, ‘fetch! fetch!’ If he rejects it the lash12 must be used, but sparingly. If you study the disposition14 of your dog and manage properly, he will soon perfectly15 understand you, and gaily16 and happily gambol17 alongside of you, seldom dropping his charge, and if he should, he will only need the words, ‘hie fetch! fetch!’ to make him bound back with eagerness to regain18 the lost glove. You may now take the glove, cast it from you, and tell him to ‘hie, fetch!’ He will immediately return with the glove. You may now let him see you drop the glove, walk off thirty or forty yards, wave your hand in the direction of the glove, and cry, ‘hie, fetch!’ He will of course regain the glove. After practising him at this often, you may drop the glove unobserved by him. He will soon follow your track for a considerable distance for a lost article, by receiving the command, ‘hie, fetch!’ You may now give the glove to another person to hide, first permitting the dog to see it in his possession, and he will be almost certain to find it, if it is at all 75accessible. In your first lessons be careful to place the glove where your dog will be certain to find it—not too far off.”
1. Dog and Gun.—Price thirty cents, post paid. An interesting and useful work for every amateur sportsman.
THE SETTER.
He should also be taught to follow closely on at the sportsman’s heel when they are out together; this may be done by saying, “back, back!” and striking him gently with the whip when he attempts to press forward. Any hunting dog may be taught to retrieve notwithstanding the complaints some sportsmen make to the contrary. Great patience is required to teach the dog, but the result of careful training amply compensates19 for the trouble. Hooper recommends that, after the dog has learned the preceding lessons, he be made to practice them often, playing with a ball.
LESSONS IN THE FIELD.
After the dog has been thoroughly drilled in the preliminary exercises we have described, it will be necessary to teach him their practical application. Much of the future value and usefulness of the dog depends upon his first day’s shooting and the manner in which he is initiated20 into the sport. We again avail ourselves of Mr. Hooper’s instructions for managing him the first day he is taken out:
76“When you observe Dash more excited than usual, you may reasonably expect a bevy21 near. They will not probably be far off, as he has not become accustomed to the familiar and welcome scent22 that will enable him to wind them at a distance. Now comes the trying hour for master and pupil. The former should be perfectly cool, and should consider the killing23 of game a secondary affair—let him give his attention to Dash. The dog seems too eager for the scent—you cry ‘steady! steady!’—if he is apparently24 near the game, and you are afraid he will flush, you cry ‘toho!’ You approach and find the quail25 do not raise—you tell him to close on, which he does by moving rather rapidly—you check him by crying ‘steady! steady!’ he points, ‘toho!’ You now approach and flush the bevy; be sure you bring down one bird, and it will be well that you only fire one barrel, that you may have more time to look after Dash, who of course scampers26 after the whirring bevy. You immediately cry ‘toho! come in!’—on, on he goes; in his wild excitement he disregards your will entirely27. You now use your whistle. By this time the birds are out of sight (but you, of course, have marked them), and he is running helter skelter. You must soon get hold of his collar, drag him rather roughly back to where he pointed—lashing him slightly—and make him ‘charge,’ and keep his position until you reload; after which you will take him to where your bird has fallen—indicate the place with your hand, crying ‘hie, fetch! fetch! fetch!’ From his previous lessons he will know that you wish him to look for something, and his nose will soon tell him what it is. Do not let him mouth or toy with it, or he will soon get in the habit of roughly mouthing your game, than which I scarcely know a worse habit.
“You may now rest for a short time, that the bevy may get over their fright; after which they will be more easily found, for if they have been very much frightened, they will not give out sufficient odor to enable your pupil to point well, and he may consequently flush them, thereby28 doing great harm. You cannot do better than to spend your time in repeating your house training with the dead quail: casting it from you, telling him to ‘close on! steady! charge! hie on! fetch!’ Cast it some distance unobserved—waft your hand in the proper direction, and tell him ‘hie, fetch! fetch! fetch!’ After a short time has elapsed, you may take Dash to where you have marked the birds. When near the birds, keep Dash near you, that he may be the more easily controlled. If he seem too eager he only needs the command of ‘steady!’ to control him. Let the command be in rather an undertone—never get into the snobbish29 habit of 77bawling at your dog. Apart from its being an ungentlemanly habit, it frightens the quail more or less, and they will not lie so well to the dog. Ha! but Dash has come down to a point most beautifully, ‘toho!’ You carefully approach, flush and shoot the bird, and immediately give your attention to the dog, crying ‘charge!’ in a strong and emphatic30 tone; if he breaks, get hold of his collar as soon as possible and lash him, and at the same time drag him to his ‘point’ and make him ‘charge’ and keep his position until you reload. You then cry ‘hie up,’ make friends with him, and cast him off—he soon points again. You manage to get very near the dog, and when you fire, immediately cry ‘charge!’ and it would be well to accompany ‘the word with a blow,’ at this juncture31. You make him charge, reload, cry ‘hie up,’ indicate the point where the bird has fallen, and command him to ‘hie fetch!’ You cast him off again, and always manage to control him after you fire—never, never suffering him to break shot without feeling the lash. Remember this is the most critical time for yourself and dog. Never suffer yourself to become excited; do not for some time fire more than one barrel, that you may sooner give your attention to Dash, and you will accomplish much if you can be near enough to Dash to give him the lash as he first springs from the point, at the same time crying ‘charge!’ If you do not suffer yourself to become excited, and lose sight of your dog after your shot, you will soon have him drop at the report of the gun; but rest assured, if you let him have his own way a few times, in your eagerness to secure game, you will rue32 it for many a day to come. You cannot have this fact too strongly impressed upon yourself. If you control him from the first, your object will be attained33. If Dash evinces unusual perverseness34 in this, it will be well to make him ‘charge’ while on a ‘point.’ Even should he see a dead bird fall, he should not retrieve without permission.”
It is a maxim35 in hunting never to allow a dog to run ahead of another in a point, but either to make him back, or come in to heel. Besides the danger of flushing your game, it would be permitting an unfair advantage to be taken of the dog doing his duty in the lead, of both which a dog of nice sensibility will show himself to be conscious. It happened, some years since, that a party was out, near Old Point Comfort in Virginia, with a fine pointer belonging to Mr. A——. A small terrier had accompanied them, and whenever the pointer would take his stand, the terrier would rush by him, and put up the birds. Repeating this vexatious, ungentlemanly conduct several times, the pointer was seen to grow impatient. At last having found 78another bevy, as the terrier attempted to pass him, the pointer seized him, and placing his fore paws on him, held him fast, growling36 to keep him quiet, and maintaining his point until the sportsmen came up.
WATER DOGS.
The Newfoundland is unquestionably the water dog par13 excellence37, and probably the best individuals of the variety are the celebrated38 dogs used for duck shooting on the margin39 of Chesapeake Bay and commonly called the Chesapeake Bay Water Dog. These animals being derived40 from ancestors of pure breed, and the constant training from generation to generation having caused the transmission of their excellent qualities in increased measure to each successive generation, are probably unrivalled by any other in their particular forte41. Owing to thoughtless and injudicious mixing of breeds a true Newfoundland is rarely seen. Although the purer the breed the better water dog he will be, yet many dogs of mixed breeds possessing considerable Newfoundland blood, make excellent dogs for ordinary aquatic43 sporting.
On breeding the water dog little need be said, for, like Dogberry’s reading and writing, his education “comes by nature.” In his infancy44 he may be taught to bring a glove and lay it down at your feet as he should do; and, by practice, the comprehension and fulfillment of his various duties will soon follow. He will be found, with judicious42 encouragement and exercise of authority, more docile45 than a child. They have been known at four months old to fetch a duck, but lest the constitution be impaired46, they should not be put too early at hard service.
“Canton,” a celebrated Newfoundland, owned by Dr. Stewart, of Sparrow’s Point—a great sportsman in his day—was noted47 for a number of remarkable48 feats49 in securing “canvas backs” on the Chesapeake. She surpassed her species generally in unrivalled devotion to the water, and to the sport of ducking, as carried on by the doctor’s colored man, Varnell, with his murderous swivel gun. Her patience and endurance were almost incredible. She was the heroine of many desperate encounters with wounded swans, often pursuing them for miles, and many were her exploits among rotten and floating ice, in pursuit of wounded ducks, sometimes, in fogs and darkness. On one occasion she brought out twenty-two or twenty-three ducks, all killed or wounded by Varnell at a single shot. A good deal of time was lost in pursuing these wounded ducks, and at the close of this pursuit, it being then dark, Varnell gave up the slut as lost, so many hours had she been engaged in bringing 79out her game; but after Varnell had sorrowfully turned his face homeward, she overtook him with one or two ducks in her mouth; and the old doctor stated that he remembered Varnell saying that at one time, when she was most fatigued50, she climbed on a cake of floating ice, and after resting herself on it, renewed the pursuit of the ducks.
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1
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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incumbent
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| adj.成为责任的，有义务的；现任的，在职的 | |
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obedience
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| n.服从，顺从 | |
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fore
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| adv.在前面；adj.先前的；在前部的；n.前部 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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requisite
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| adj.需要的，必不可少的；n.必需品 | |
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retrieve
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| vt.重新得到，收回；挽回，补救；检索 | |
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caresses
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| 爱抚，抚摸( caress的名词复数 ) | |
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lash
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| v.系牢；鞭打；猛烈抨击；n.鞭打；眼睫毛 | |
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par
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| n.标准，票面价值，平均数量；adj.票面的，平常的，标准的 | |
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disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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gaily
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| adv.欢乐地，高兴地 | |
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gambol
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| v.欢呼，雀跃 | |
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regain
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| vt.重新获得，收复，恢复 | |
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compensates
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| 补偿，报酬( compensate的第三人称单数 )； 给（某人）赔偿（或赔款） | |
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initiated
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| n. 创始人 adj. 新加入的 vt. 开始，创始，启蒙，介绍加入 | |
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bevy
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| n.一群 | |
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scent
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| n.气味，香味，香水，线索，嗅觉；v.嗅，发觉 | |
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killing
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| n.巨额利润；突然赚大钱，发大财 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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quail
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| n.鹌鹑；vi.畏惧，颤抖 | |
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scampers
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| v.蹦蹦跳跳地跑，惊惶奔跑( scamper的第三人称单数 ) | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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thereby
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| adv.因此，从而 | |
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snobbish
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| adj.势利的，谄上欺下的 | |
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emphatic
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| adj.强调的，着重的；无可置疑的，明显的 | |
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juncture
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| n.时刻，关键时刻，紧要关头 | |
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rue
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| n.懊悔，芸香，后悔；v.后悔，悲伤，懊悔 | |
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attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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perverseness
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| n. 乖张, 倔强, 顽固 | |
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maxim
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| n.格言，箴言 | |
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growling
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| n.吠声, 咆哮声 v.怒吠, 咆哮, 吼 | |
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excellence
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| n.优秀，杰出，(pl.)优点，美德 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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41
forte
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| n.长处，擅长；adj.(音乐)强音的 | |
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judicious
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| adj.明智的，明断的，能作出明智决定的 | |
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aquatic
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| adj.水生的，水栖的 | |
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44
infancy
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| n.婴儿期；幼年期；初期 | |
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45
docile
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| adj.驯服的，易控制的，容易教的 | |
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46
impaired
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| adj.受损的；出毛病的；有（身体或智力）缺陷的v.损害，削弱( impair的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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49
feats
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| 功绩，伟业，技艺( feat的名词复数 ) | |
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fatigued
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| adj. 疲乏的 | |
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