The kitchen itself is not often floored; the range (of clay and of different appearance from that, which is used here) and the sink stand directly on mother earth under a shed-like roof which has been darkened by smoke. The range has no chimney; not coal but wood is burned in it, and all the smoke escapes from the front opening or mouth and fills the entire kitchen, causing the dear black eyes of the amiable6 housewife to suffuse7 with tears.
She has the small Japanese towel wrapped round her head to protect the elaborate coiffure from the soot8 of years, that has accumulated everywhere and falls in gentle flakes9, snow-fashion, on things universally. She works her pair of lungs at the "fire-blowing tube," a large bamboo two or three feet long, opened at one end for a mouth-piece and punched at the other for a narrow orifice. The imprisoned10 volumes of smoke in the kitchen must crowd out through a square aperture11 in the roof; if it be closed on a rainy day, they must escape through windows or crevices12 the best they may.
The water when brought in from the well is emptied into a deep heavy earthen reservoir of reddish hue13 standing14 near the sink. With a wooden ladle I would dip out the water into the brass basin (sheet brass, not solid), and wash myself without soap in the most rapid manner possible, yearning15 eagerly for dinner. The towel is a piece of cotton dyed blue with designs left undyed or dyed black. I grumbled16, I confess, when my mother sent me back for a more thorough washing; but with the utmost alacrity17 I always saluted18 the very sight of viands19.
Oftentimes I was late and was obliged to eat a late dinner alone; but when all of our family sat down together, enough of life was manifested. At one end my witty20 young brother provoked laughter in us with stuff and nonsense; next him sat my younger sister, quiet and good. I assumed my position between my sister and my father and mother, who sat together at the head of the row. I forget to mention that my elder brother, whose place must be next above me, had been ordered to keep peace in the region of my merry little brother. My sister-in-law or my elder brother's wife took her stand opposite us, surrounded by a rice-bucket, a cast-iron cooking-pot, a teapot, a basket of rice-bowls, saucers, etc. She it was who had to cook and serve dinner and wash dishes and take care of her babies. It is this that renders a young married woman's lot in life very hard in Japan, the principal weight of daily work devolving upon her. After all this, if parents-in-law are not pleased with her she is in imminent22 danger of being turned off like a hired servant, however affectionate she may be toward her husband; and the husband feels it his duty to part with her despite his deep attachment23; so sacred is regarded the manifestation24 of filial piety25! Fortunately for my sister-in-law, my mother, who has four daughters living with their husbands' relatives, made every household task as light and easy as she could for her and expressed sympathy when needed, knowing that her own daughters were laboring26 in the like circumstances.
We do not eat at one large dining table with chairs round it; we sit on our heels on the matted floor with a separate small table in front of each of us. I remember my table was in the form of a box about a foot square, the lid of which I lifted and laid on the body of the box with the inner surface up. The inner surface was japanned red, the outer surface and the sides of the box green. The convenience of this form of table is, that you can store away your own rice-bowl, vegetable-dish and chop-stick case in the box. Some tables stand on two flat and broad legs, others have drawers in their sides. We do not ring the bell in announcing dinner; in large families they clap two oblong blocks of hard wood. Grace before meat was a thing unknown to us; my brother, however, had a queer habit of bowing to his chopsticks at the close of meals. He did it from simple heart-felt gratitude27 and not for show. In his ignorance of Him who provideth our daily bread, he concluded to return thanks to the tools of immediate28 usefulness. Chopsticks are of various materials—bamboo, mahogany, ivory, etc.,—and in different shapes—round, angular, slender at one end and stout29 at the other, etc. In a great public feast where there is no knowing the number present, or a religious fete where reverential cleanliness is formally insisted upon, fork-shaped splints of soft wood are distributed among the guests who rend21 them asunder30 into pairs of impromptu31 chopsticks. On the morning of New Year's Day tradition requires us to use chopsticks prepared hastily of mulberry twigs32 in handling rice-paste cakes called mochi, which the people cook with various edibles33 and eat, as a sort of religious ceremony.
Rice is the staple34 food. Vegetables and fishes are also consumed, yet no meat is eaten. Partridge and game, however, were sanctioned from early times as food or rather as luxuries. To cook rice just right—not too soft nor too hard—is not an easy matter; it is considered an art every Japanese maiden35 of marriageable age must needs acquire. The rice is first washed in a wooden tub, and then transferred to a deep iron cooking-pot with some water. The point lies in the question, how much water is needed? Neither too much nor too little; there is a golden mean. If the rice be cooked either the very least little bit soft or hard the young servant-wife, for really that she is, is blamed for it. The right amount of water is only ascertained36 by trial. No less puzzling is the degree of heat to be applied37 to the pot, and the point at which to withdraw the fuel and leave the cooking to be completed without any further application of heat. These things I speak of not merely from observation but from personal experience. When I was off at a boarding school, which I may have occasion to speak of, I experimented in boarding myself for a while; I learned there how to cook as at a young ladies' seminary, as well as how to write and read.
Hot boiled rice we always have at dinner; at supper and breakfast we pour boiling tea over cold rice in the bowl and are content. Tea is boiling in the kitchen from morning till night. It is drunk with no sugar or milk; indeed, the scrupulous38 inhabitants of the "land of the gods" never dreamt of tasting the milk of a brute39. If a babe is nourished with cow's milk, it is believed that the horns will grow on his forehead. When no palatable40 dishes are to be had we eat our rice with pickled plums and preserved radishes, turnips41, egg-plants and cabbage. The preserves are not done up in glass jars; they are kept in a huge tub of salt and rice-bran. During the summer months when vegetables are plenty and cheap we buy a great quantity of them from a farmer of our acquaintance. He brings them on the back of a horse. The poor animal is usually loaded so heavily that only his head and tail are visible amidst the mountain of cabbage leaves. Days are spent in washing and scrubbing the roots and bulbs of the garden, many more in drying them in the sun. House-tops, weather-beaten walls, fences and all available windy corners are utilized42 in hanging up the vegetables. When partly dried they are packed in salt and rice-bran and subjected to pressure in bamboo-hooped wooden tubs, commonly by laying old millstones on them. Being but partially43 dry, the vegetables deliver the remaining moisture to the powder in which they are packed, and in course of time the whole contents become soaked in a yellowish, muddy, pungent44 liquid. Kōk?, as the vegetables are then called, can be preserved in this way throughout the whole year. They are taken out from time to time, washed and sliced and relished45 with great satisfaction. They are something that is sure to be obtained in any house at any time; with cold rice and hot tea they make up our simplest fare.
When I was late from school I made out my dinner with the rice and kōk?. Frequently, however, my provident46 mother set aside for me something nice.
点击收听单词发音
1 demons | |
n.恶人( demon的名词复数 );恶魔;精力过人的人;邪念 | |
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2 vessel | |
n.船舶;容器,器皿;管,导管,血管 | |
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3 brass | |
n.黄铜;黄铜器,铜管乐器 | |
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4 faucet | |
n.水龙头 | |
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5 plumbing | |
n.水管装置;水暖工的工作;管道工程v.用铅锤测量(plumb的现在分词);探究 | |
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6 amiable | |
adj.和蔼可亲的,友善的,亲切的 | |
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7 suffuse | |
v.(色彩等)弥漫,染遍 | |
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8 soot | |
n.煤烟,烟尘;vt.熏以煤烟 | |
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9 flakes | |
小薄片( flake的名词复数 ); (尤指)碎片; 雪花; 古怪的人 | |
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10 imprisoned | |
下狱,监禁( imprison的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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11 aperture | |
n.孔,隙,窄的缺口 | |
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12 crevices | |
n.(尤指岩石的)裂缝,缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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13 hue | |
n.色度;色调;样子 | |
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14 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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15 yearning | |
a.渴望的;向往的;怀念的 | |
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16 grumbled | |
抱怨( grumble的过去式和过去分词 ); 发牢骚; 咕哝; 发哼声 | |
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17 alacrity | |
n.敏捷,轻快,乐意 | |
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18 saluted | |
v.欢迎,致敬( salute的过去式和过去分词 );赞扬,赞颂 | |
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19 viands | |
n.食品,食物 | |
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20 witty | |
adj.机智的,风趣的 | |
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21 rend | |
vt.把…撕开,割裂;把…揪下来,强行夺取 | |
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22 imminent | |
adj.即将发生的,临近的,逼近的 | |
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23 attachment | |
n.附属物,附件;依恋;依附 | |
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24 manifestation | |
n.表现形式;表明;现象 | |
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25 piety | |
n.虔诚,虔敬 | |
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26 laboring | |
n.劳动,操劳v.努力争取(for)( labor的现在分词 );苦干;详细分析;(指引擎)缓慢而困难地运转 | |
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27 gratitude | |
adj.感激,感谢 | |
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28 immediate | |
adj.立即的;直接的,最接近的;紧靠的 | |
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30 asunder | |
adj.分离的,化为碎片 | |
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31 impromptu | |
adj.即席的,即兴的;adv.即兴的(地),无准备的(地) | |
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32 twigs | |
细枝,嫩枝( twig的名词复数 ) | |
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33 edibles | |
可以吃的,可食用的( edible的名词复数 ); 食物 | |
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34 staple | |
n.主要产物,常用品,主要要素,原料,订书钉,钩环;adj.主要的,重要的;vt.分类 | |
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35 maiden | |
n.少女,处女;adj.未婚的,纯洁的,无经验的 | |
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36 ascertained | |
v.弄清,确定,查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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37 applied | |
adj.应用的;v.应用,适用 | |
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38 scrupulous | |
adj.审慎的,小心翼翼的,完全的,纯粹的 | |
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39 brute | |
n.野兽,兽性 | |
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40 palatable | |
adj.可口的,美味的;惬意的 | |
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41 turnips | |
芜青( turnip的名词复数 ); 芜菁块根; 芜菁甘蓝块根; 怀表 | |
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42 utilized | |
v.利用,使用( utilize的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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43 partially | |
adv.部分地,从某些方面讲 | |
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44 pungent | |
adj.(气味、味道)刺激性的,辛辣的;尖锐的 | |
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45 relished | |
v.欣赏( relish的过去式和过去分词 );从…获得乐趣;渴望 | |
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46 provident | |
adj.为将来做准备的,有先见之明的 | |
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