As there was nothing I liked better than horse exercise, the pleasure of riding through an unknown country caused the early part of our enterprise to be particularly agreeable to me.
I began to enjoy the exhilarating delight of traveling, a life of desire, gratification and liberty. The truth is, that my spirits rose so rapidly, that I began to be indifferent to what had once appeared to be a terrible journey.
"After all," I said to myself, "what do I risk? Simply to take a journey through a curious country, to climb a remarkable6 mountain, and if the worst comes to the worst, to descend7 into the crater8 of an extinct volcano."
There could be no doubt that this was all this terrible Saknussemm had done. As to the existence of a gallery, or of subterraneous passages leading into the interior of the earth, the idea was simply absurd, the hallucination of a distempered imagination. All, then, that may be required of me I will do cheerfully, and will create no difficulty.
It was just before we left Reykjavik that I came to this decision.
Hans, our extraordinary guide, went first, walking with a steady, rapid, unvarying step. Our two horses with the luggage followed of their own accord, without requiring whip or spur. My uncle and I came behind, cutting a very tolerable figure upon our small but vigorous animals.
Iceland is one of the largest islands in Europe. It contains thirty thousand square miles of surface, and has about seventy thousand inhabitants. Geographers10 have divided it into four parts, and we had to cross the southwest quarter which in the vernacular11 is called Sudvestr Fjordungr.
Hans, on taking his departure from Reykjavik, had followed the line of the sea. We took our way through poor and sparse12 meadows, which made a desperate effort every year to show a little green. They very rarely succeed in a good show of yellow.
The rugged13 summits of the rocky hills were dimly visible on the edge of the horizon, through the misty14 fogs; every now and then some heavy flakes15 of snow showed conspicuous16 in the morning light, while certain lofty and pointed17 rocks were first lost in the grey low clouds, their summits clearly visible above, like jagged reefs rising from a troublous sea.
Every now and then a spur of rock came down through the arid18 ground, leaving us scarcely room to pass. Our horses, however, appeared not only well acquainted with the country, but by a kind of instinct, knew which was the best road. My uncle had not even the satisfaction of urging forward his steed by whip, spur, or voice. It was utterly19 useless to show any signs of impatience20. I could not help smiling to see him look so big on his little horse; his long legs now and then touching21 the ground made him look like a six-footed centaur22.
"Good beast, good beast," he would cry. "I assure you, that I begin to think no animal is more intelligent than an Icelandic horse. Snow, tempest, impracticable roads, rocks, icebergs—nothing stops him. He is brave; he is sober; he is safe; he never makes a false step; never glides23 or slips from his path. I dare to say that if any river, any fjord has to be crossed—and I have no doubt there will be many—you will see him enter the water without hesitation24 like an amphibious animal, and reach the opposite side in safety. We must not, however, attempt to hurry him; we must allow him to have his own way, and I will undertake to say that between us we shall do our ten leagues a day."
"I have not the slightest anxiety about him: that sort of people go ahead without knowing even what they are about. Look at Hans. He moves so little that it is impossible for him to become fatigued26. Besides, if he were to complain of weariness, he could have the loan of my horse. I should have a violent attack of the cramp27 if I were not to have some sort of exercise. My arms are right—but my legs are getting a little stiff."
All this while we were advancing at a rapid pace. The country we had reached was already nearly a desert. Here and there could be seen an isolated28 farm, some solitary29 bur, or Icelandic house, built of wood, earth, fragments of lava30—looking like beggars on the highway of life. These wretched and miserable31 huts excited in us such pity that we felt half disposed to leave alms at every door. In this country there are no roads, paths are nearly unknown, and vegetation, poor as it was, slowly as it reached perfection, soon obliterated32 all traces of the few travelers who passed from place to place.
Nevertheless, this division of the province, situated33 only a few miles from the capital, is considered one of the best cultivated and most thickly peopled in all Iceland. What, then, must be the state of the less known and more distant parts of the island? After traveling fully9 half a Danish mile, we had met neither a farmer at the door of his hut, nor even a wandering shepherd with his wild and savage34 flock.
A few stray cows and sheep were only seen occasionally. What, then, must we expect when we come to the upheaved regions—to the districts broken and roughened from volcanic35 eruptions36 and subterraneous commotions37?
We were to learn this all in good time. I saw, however, on consulting the map, that we avoided a good deal of this rough country, by following the winding38 and desolate39 shores of the sea. In reality, the great volcanic movement of the island, and all its attendant phenomena40, are concentrated in the interior of the island; there, horizontal layers or strata41 of rocks, piled one upon the other, eruptions of basaltic origin, and streams of lava, have given this country a kind of supernatural reputation.
Little did I expect, however, the spectacle which awaited us when we reached the peninsula of Sneffels, where agglomerations42 of nature's ruins form a kind of terrible chaos43.
Some two hours or more after we had left the city of Reykjavik, we reached the little town called Aoalkirkja, or the principal church. It consists simply of a few houses—not what in England or Germany we should call a hamlet.
Hans stopped here one half hour. He shared our frugal44 breakfast, answered Yes, and No to my uncle's questions as to the nature of the road, and at last when asked where we were to pass the night was as laconic45 as usual.
"Gardar!" was his one-worded reply.
I took occasion to consult the map, to see where Gardar was to be found. After looking keenly I found a small town of that name on the borders of the Hvalfjord, about four miles from Reykjavik. I pointed this out to my uncle, who made a very energetic grimace46.
"Only four miles out of twenty-two? Why it is only a little walk."
He was about to make some energetic observation to the guide, but Hans, without taking the slightest notice of him, went in front of the horses, and walked ahead with the same imperturbable47 phlegm he had always exhibited.
Three hours later, still traveling over those apparently48 interminable and sandy prairies, we were compelled to go round the Kollafjord, an easier and shorter cut than crossing the gulfs. Shortly after we entered a place of communal50 jurisdiction51 called Ejulberg, and the clock of which would then have struck twelve, if any Icelandic church had been rich enough to possess so valuable and useful an article. These sacred edifices52 are, however, very much like these people, who do without watches—and never miss them.
Here the horses were allowed to take some rest and refreshment53, then following a narrow strip of shore between high rocks and the sea, they took us without further halt to the Aoalkirkja of Brantar, and after another mile to Saurboer Annexia, a chapel54 of ease, situated on the southern bank of the Hvalfjord.
It was four o'clock in the evening and we had traveled four Danish miles, about equal to twenty English.
The fjord was in this place about half a mile in width. The sweeping55 and broken waves came rolling in upon the pointed rocks; the gulf49 was surrounded by rocky walls—a mighty56 cliff, three thousand feet in height, remarkable for its brown strata, separated here and there by beds of tufa of a reddish hue57. Now, whatever may have been the intelligence of our horses, I had not the slightest reliance upon them, as a means of crossing a stormy arm of the sea. To ride over salt water upon the back of a little horse seemed to me absurd.
"If they are really intelligent," I said to myself, "they will certainly not make the attempt. In any case, I shall trust rather to my own intelligence than theirs."
But my uncle was in no humor to wait. He dug his heels into the sides of his steed, and made for the shore. His horse went to the very edge of the water, sniffed58 at the approaching wave and retreated.
My uncle, who was, sooth to say, quite as obstinate59 as the beast he bestrode, insisted on his making the desired advance. This attempt was followed by a new refusal on the part of the horse which quietly shook his head. This demonstration60 of rebellion was followed by a volley of words and a stout61 application of whipcord; also followed by kicks on the part of the horse, which threw its head and heels upwards62 and tried to throw his rider. At length the sturdy little pony63, spreading out his legs, in a stiff and ludicrous attitude, got from under the Professor's legs, and left him standing64, with both feet on a separate stone, like the Colossus of Rhodes.
"Wretched animal!" cried my uncle, suddenly transformed into a foot passenger—and as angry and ashamed as a dismounted cavalry65 officer on the field of battle.
"Farja," said the guide, tapping him familiarly on the shoulder.
"What, a ferry boat!"
"Der," answered Hans, pointing to where lay the boat in question—"there."
"Well," I cried, quite delighted with the information; "so it is."
"Why did you not say so before," cried my uncle; "why not start at once?"
"Tidvatten," said the guide.
"What does he say?" I asked, considerably66 puzzled by the delay and the dialogue.
"He says tide," replied my uncle, translating the Danish word for my information.
"Of course I understand—we must wait till the tide serves."
"For bida?" asked my uncle.
"Ja," replied Hans.
My uncle frowned, stamped his feet and then followed the horses to where the boat lay.
I thoroughly67 understood and appreciated the necessity for waiting, before crossing the fjord, for that moment when the sea at its highest point is in a state of slack water. As neither the ebb68 nor flow can then be felt, the ferry boat was in no danger of being carried out to sea, or dashed upon the rocky coast.
The favorable moment did not come until six o'clock in the evening. Then my uncle, myself, and guide, two boatmen and the four horses got into a very awkward flat-bottom boat. Accustomed as I had been to the steam ferry boats of the Elbe, I found the long oars69 of the boatmen but sorry means of locomotion70. We were more than an hour in crossing the fjord; but at length the passage was concluded without accident.
Half an hour later we reached Gardar.
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1
overcast
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| adj.阴天的，阴暗的，愁闷的；v.遮盖，（使）变暗，包边缝；n.覆盖，阴天 | |
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adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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perilous
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| adj.危险的，冒险的 | |
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fatiguing
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| a.使人劳累的 | |
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5
drenching
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| n.湿透v.使湿透( drench的现在分词 )；在某人（某物）上大量使用（某液体） | |
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6
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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7
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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8
crater
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| n.火山口，弹坑 | |
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9
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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10
geographers
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| 地理学家( geographer的名词复数 ) | |
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11
vernacular
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| adj.地方的，用地方语写成的；n.白话；行话；本国语；动植物的俗名 | |
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12
sparse
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| adj.稀疏的，稀稀落落的，薄的 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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14
misty
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| adj.雾蒙蒙的，有雾的 | |
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15
flakes
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| 小薄片( flake的名词复数 )； （尤指）碎片； 雪花； 古怪的人 | |
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16
conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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17
pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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arid
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| adj.干旱的；(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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19
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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20
impatience
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| n.不耐烦，急躁 | |
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21
touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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centaur
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| n.人首马身的怪物 | |
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23
glides
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| n.滑行( glide的名词复数 )；滑音；音渡；过渡音v.滑动( glide的第三人称单数 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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24
hesitation
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| n.犹豫，踌躇 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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fatigued
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| adj. 疲乏的 | |
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cramp
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| n.痉挛；[pl.](腹)绞痛；vt.限制，束缚 | |
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28
isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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30
lava
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| n.熔岩，火山岩 | |
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31
miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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32
obliterated
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| v.除去( obliterate的过去式和过去分词 )；涂去；擦掉；彻底破坏或毁灭 | |
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33
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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34
savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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35
volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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36
eruptions
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| n.喷发，爆发( eruption的名词复数 ) | |
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37
commotions
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| n.混乱，喧闹，骚动( commotion的名词复数 ) | |
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38
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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39
desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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40
phenomena
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| n.现象 | |
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41
strata
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| n.地层（复数）；社会阶层 | |
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42
agglomerations
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| n.成团，结块（agglomeration的复数形式） | |
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43
chaos
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| n.混乱，无秩序 | |
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44
frugal
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| adj.节俭的，节约的，少量的，微量的 | |
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45
laconic
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| adj.简洁的；精练的 | |
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46
grimace
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| v.做鬼脸，面部歪扭 | |
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47
imperturbable
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| adj.镇静的 | |
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48
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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49
gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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50
communal
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| adj.公有的，公共的，公社的，公社制的 | |
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51
jurisdiction
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| n.司法权，审判权，管辖权，控制权 | |
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52
edifices
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| n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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53
refreshment
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| n.恢复，精神爽快，提神之事物；（复数）refreshments:点心，茶点 | |
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54
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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55
sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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56
mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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57
hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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58
sniffed
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| v.以鼻吸气，嗅，闻( sniff的过去式和过去分词 )；抽鼻子（尤指哭泣、患感冒等时出声地用鼻子吸气）；抱怨，不以为然地说 | |
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59
obstinate
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| adj.顽固的，倔强的，不易屈服的，较难治愈的 | |
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60
demonstration
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| n.表明，示范，论证，示威 | |
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62
upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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63
pony
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| adj.小型的；n.小马 | |
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64
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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65
cavalry
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| n.骑兵；轻装甲部队 | |
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66
considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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67
thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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68
ebb
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| vi.衰退，减退；n.处于低潮，处于衰退状态 | |
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69
oars
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| n.桨，橹( oar的名词复数 )；划手v.划（行）( oar的第三人称单数 ) | |
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70
locomotion
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| n.运动，移动 | |
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