The commencement of the great undertaking7 filled me with awe8. Now that we had actually started, I began to believe in the reality of the undertaking!
Our party formed quite a procession. We walked in single file, preceded by Hans, the imperturbable9 eider-duck hunter. He calmly led us by narrow paths where two persons could by no possibility walk abreast10. Conversation was wholly impossible. We had all the more opportunity to reflect and admire the awful grandeur11 of the scene around.
Beyond the extraordinary basaltic wall of the fjord of Stapi we found ourselves making our way through fibrous turf, over which grew a scanty12 vegetation of grass, the residuum of the ancient vegetation of the swampy13 peninsula. The vast mass of this combustible14, the field of which as yet is utterly15 unexplored, would suffice to warm Iceland for a whole century. This mighty16 turf pit, measured from the bottom of certain ravines, is often not less than seventy feet deep, and presents to the eye the view of successive layers of black burned-up rocky detritus17, separated by thin streaks18 of porous19 sandstone.
As a true nephew of the great Professor Hardwigg, and despite my preoccupation and doleful fears of what was to come, I observed with great interest the vast collection of mineralogical curiosities spread out before me in this vast museum of natural history. Looking back to my recent studies, I went over in thought the whole geological history of Iceland.
This extraordinary and curious island must have made its appearance from out of the great world of waters at a comparatively recent date. Like the coral islands of the Pacific, it may, for aught we know, be still rising by slow and imperceptible degrees.
If this really be the case, its origin can be attributed to only one cause—that of the continued action of subterranean22 fires.
This was a happy thought.
If so, if this were true, away with the theories of Sir Humphry Davy; away with the authority of the parchment of Arne Saknussemm; the wonderful pretensions23 to discovery on the part of my uncle—and to our journey!
All must end in smoke.
Charmed with the idea, I began more carefully to look about me. A serious study of the soil was necessary to negative or confirm my hypothesis. I took in every item of what I saw, and I began to comprehend the succession of phenomena24 which had preceded its formation.
Iceland, being absolutely without sedimentary soil, is composed exclusively of volcanic tufa; that is to say, of an agglomeration25 of stones and of rocks of a porous texture26. Long before the existence of volcanoes, it was composed of a solid body of massive trap rock lifted bodily and slowly out of the sea, by the action of the centrifugal force at work in the earth.
The internal fires, however, had not as yet burst their bounds and flooded the exterior27 cake of Mother Earth with hot and raging lava28.
My readers must excuse this brief and somewhat pedantic29 geological lecture. But it is necessary to the complete understanding of what follows.
At a later period in the world's history, a huge and mighty fissure31 must, reasoning by analogy, have been dug diagonally from the southwest to the northeast of the island, through which by degrees flowed the volcanic crust. The great and wondrous32 phenomenon then went on without violence—the outpouring was enormous, and the seething33 fused matter, ejected from the bowels34 of the earth, spread slowly and peacefully in the form of vast level plains, or what are called mamelons or mounds35.
But as a natural consequence of this overflow37, the depth of the island increased. It can readily be believed what an enormous quantity of elastic38 fluids were piled up within its centre, when at last it afforded no other openings, after the process of cooling the crust had taken place.
At length a time came when despite the enormous thickness and weight of the upper crust, the mechanical forces of the combustible gases below became so great, that they actually upheaved the weighty back and made for themselves huge and gigantic shafts39. Hence the volcanoes which suddenly arose through the upper crust, and next the craters41, which burst forth42 at the summit of these new creations.
It will be seen that the first phenomena in connection with the formation of the island were simply eruptive; to these, however, shortly succeeded the volcanic phenomena.
Through the newly formed openings, escaped the marvelous mass of basaltic stones with which the plain we were now crossing was covered. We were trampling44 our way over heavy rocks of dark grey color, which, while cooling, had been moulded into six-sided prisms. In the "back distance" we could see a number of flattened45 cones47, which formerly48 were so many fire-vomiting mouths.
After the basaltic eruption49 was appeased50 and set at rest, the volcano, the force of which increased with that of the extinct craters, gave free passage to the fiery51 overflow of lava, and to the mass of cinders52 and pumice stone, now scattered53 over the sides of the mountain, like disheveled hair on the shoulders of a Bacchante.
Here, in a nutshell, I had the whole history of the phenomena from which Iceland arose. All take their rise in the fierce action of interior fires, and to believe that the central mass did not remain in a state of liquid fire, white hot, was simply and purely54 madness.
This being satisfactorily proved (Q.E.D.), what insensate folly55 to pretend to penetrate56 into the interior of the mighty earth!
This mental lecture delivered to myself while proceeding57 on a journey, did me good. I was quite reassured58 as to the fate of our enterprise; and therefore went, like a brave soldier mounting a bristling59 battery, to the assault of old Sneffels.
As we advanced, the road became every moment more difficult. The soil was broken and dangerous. The rocks broke and gave way under our feet, and we had to be scrupulously60 careful in order to avoid dangerous and constant falls.
Hans advanced as calmly as if he had been walking over Salisbury Plain; sometimes he would disappear behind huge blocks of stone, and we momentarily lost sight of him. There was a little period of anxiety and then there was a shrill61 whistle, just to tell us where to look for him.
Occasionally he would take it into his head to stop to pick up lumps of rock, and silently pile them up into small heaps, in order that we might not lose our way on our return.
He had no idea of the journey we were about to undertake.
At all events, the precaution was a good one; though how utterly useless and unnecessary—but I must not anticipate.
Three hours of terrible fatigue62, walking incessantly63, had only brought us to the foot of the great mountain. This will give some notion of what we had still to undergo.
Suddenly, however, Hans cried a halt—that is, he made signs to that effect—and a summary kind of breakfast was laid out on the lava before us. My uncle, who now was simply Professor Hardwigg, was so eager to advance, that he bolted his food like a greedy clown. This halt for refreshment64 was also a halt for repose65. The Professor was therefore compelled to wait the good pleasure of his imperturbable guide, who did not give the signal for departure for a good hour.
The three Icelanders, who were as taciturn as their comrade, did not say a word; but went on eating and drinking very quietly and soberly.
From this, our first real stage, we began to ascend66 the slopes of the Sneffels volcano. Its magnificent snowy nightcap, as we began to call it, by an optical delusion67 very common in mountains, appeared to me to be close at hand; and yet how many long weary hours must elapse before we reached its summit. What unheard-of fatigue must we endure!
The stones on the mountain side, held together by no cement of soil, bound together by no roots or creeping herbs, gave way continually under our feet, and went rushing below into the plains, like a series of small avalanches68.
In certain places the sides of this stupendous mountain were at an angle so steep that it was impossible to climb upwards69, and we were compelled to get round these obstacles as best we might.
Those who understand Alpine70 climbing will comprehend our difficulties. Often we were obliged to help each other along by means of our climbing poles.
I must say this for my uncle, that he stuck as close to me as possible. He never lost sight of me, and on many occasions his arm supplied me with firm and solid support. He was strong, wiry, and apparently71 insensible to fatigue. Another great advantage with him was that he had the innate72 sentiment of equilibrium—for he never slipped or failed in his steps. The Icelanders, though heavily loaded, climbed with the agility73 of mountaineers.
Looking up, every now and then, at the height of the great volcano of Sneffels, it appeared to me wholly impossible to reach to the summit on that side; at all events, if the angle of inclination74 did not speedily change.
Fortunately, after an hour of unheard-of fatigues75, and of gymnastic exercises that would have been trying to an acrobat76, we came to a vast field of ice, which wholly surrounded the bottom of the cone46 of the volcano. The natives called it the tablecloth77, probably from some such reason as the dwellers78 in the Cape43 of Good Hope call their mountain Table Mountain, and their roads Table Bay.
Here, to our mutual79 surprise, we found an actual flight of stone steps, which wonderfully assisted our ascent80. This singular flight of stairs was, like everything else, volcanic. It had been formed by one of those torrents81 of stones cast up by the eruptions83, and of which the Icelandic name is stina. If this singular torrent82 had not been checked in its descent by the peculiar3 shape of the flanks of the mountain, it would have swept into the sea, and would have formed new islands.
Such as it was, it served us admirably. The abrupt84 character of the slopes momentarily increased, but these remarkable85 stone steps, a little less difficult than those of the Egyptian pyramids, were the one simple natural means by which we were enabled to proceed.
About seven in the evening of that day, after having clambered up two thousand of these rough steps, we found ourselves overlooking a kind of spur or projection86 of the mountain—a sort of buttress87 upon which the conelike crater40, properly so called, leaned for support.
The ocean lay beneath us at a depth of more than three thousand two hundred feet—a grand and mighty spectacle. We had reached the region of eternal snows.
The cold was keen, searching and intense. The wind blew with extraordinary violence. I was utterly exhausted88.
My worthy89 uncle, the Professor, saw clearly that my legs refused further service, and that, in fact, I was utterly exhausted. Despite his hot and feverish90 impatience91, he decided92, with a sigh, upon a halt. He called the eider-duck hunter to his side. That worthy, however, shook his head.
"Ofvanfor," was his sole spoken reply.
"It appears," says my uncle with a woebegone look, "that we must go higher."
He then turned to Hans, and asked him to give some reason for this decisive response.
"Mistour," replied the guide.
"Ja, mistour—yes, the mistour," cried one of the Icelandic guides in a terrified tone.
It was the first time he had spoken.
"What does this mysterious word signify?" I anxiously inquired.
"Look," said my uncle.
I looked down upon the plain below, and I saw a vast, a prodigious93 volume of pulverized94 pumice stone, of sand, of dust, rising to the heavens in the form of a mighty waterspout. It resembled the fearful phenomenon of a similar character known to the travelers in the desert of the great Sahara.
The wind was driving it directly towards that side of Sneffels on which we were perched. This opaque96 veil standing30 up between us and the sun projected a deep shadow on the flanks of the mountain. If this sand spout95 broke over us, we must all be infallibly destroyed, crushed in its fearful embraces. This extraordinary phenomenon, very common when the wind shakes the glaciers97, and sweeps over the arid plains, is in the Icelandic tongue called "mistour."
"Hastigt, hastigt!" cried our guide.
Now I certainly knew nothing of Danish, but I thoroughly98 understood that his gestures were meant to quicken us.
The guide turned rapidly in a direction which would take us to the back of the crater, all the while ascending99 slightly.
We followed rapidly, despite our excessive fatigue.
A quarter of an hour later Hans paused to enable us to look back. The mighty whirlwind of sand was spreading up the slope of the mountain to the very spot where we had proposed to halt. Huge stones were caught up, cast into the air, and thrown about as during an eruption. We were happily a little out of the direction of the wind, and therefore out of reach of danger. But for the precaution and knowledge of our guide, our dislocated bodies, our crushed and broken limbs, would have been cast to the wind, like dust from some unknown meteor.
Hans, however, did not think it prudent100 to pass the night on the bare side of the cone. We therefore continued our journey in a zigzag101 direction. The fifteen hundred feet which remained to be accomplished102 took us at least five hours. The turnings and windings103, the no-thoroughfares, the marches and marches, turned that insignificant104 distance into at least three leagues. I never felt such misery105, fatigue and exhaustion106 in my life. I was ready to faint from hunger and cold. The rarefied air at the same time painfully acted upon my lungs.
At last, when I thought myself at my last gasp107, about eleven at night, it being in that region quite dark, we reached the summit of Mount Sneffels! It was in an awful mood of mind, that despite my fatigue, before I descended108 into the crater which was to shelter us for the night, I paused to behold109 the sun rise at midnight on the very day of its lowest declension, and enjoyed the spectacle of its ghastly pale rays cast upon the isle110 which lay sleeping at our feet!
I no longer wondered at people traveling all the way from England to Norway to behold this magical and wondrous spectacle.
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1
volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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peculiarities
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| n. 特质, 特性, 怪癖, 古怪 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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downwards
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| adj./adv.向下的（地），下行的（地） | |
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undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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awe
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| n.敬畏，惊惧；vt.使敬畏，使惊惧 | |
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imperturbable
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| adj.镇静的 | |
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abreast
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| adv.并排地；跟上(时代)的步伐，与…并进地 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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swampy
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| adj.沼泽的，湿地的 | |
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combustible
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| a. 易燃的,可燃的; n. 易燃物,可燃物 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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detritus
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| n.碎石 | |
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streaks
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| n.（与周围有所不同的）条纹( streak的名词复数 )；（通常指不好的）特征（倾向）；（不断经历成功或失败的）一段时期v.快速移动( streak的第三人称单数 )；使布满条纹 | |
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porous
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| adj.可渗透的，多孔的 | |
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arid
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| adj.干旱的；(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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subterranean
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| adj.地下的，地表下的 | |
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pretensions
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| 自称( pretension的名词复数 )； 自命不凡； 要求； 权力 | |
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phenomena
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| n.现象 | |
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agglomeration
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| n.结聚，一堆 | |
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texture
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| n.(织物)质地；(材料)构造；结构；肌理 | |
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exterior
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| adj.外部的，外在的；表面的 | |
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lava
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| n.熔岩，火山岩 | |
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pedantic
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| adj.卖弄学问的；迂腐的 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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fissure
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| n.裂缝；裂伤 | |
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wondrous
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| adj.令人惊奇的，奇妙的；adv.惊人地；异乎寻常地；令人惊叹地 | |
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seething
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| 沸腾的，火热的 | |
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bowels
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| n.肠，内脏，内部；肠( bowel的名词复数 )；内部，最深处 | |
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mounds
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| 土堆，土丘( mound的名词复数 )； 一大堆 | |
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epoch
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| n.(新)时代；历元 | |
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overflow
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| v.(使)外溢，(使)溢出；溢出，流出，漫出 | |
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elastic
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| n.橡皮圈，松紧带；adj.有弹性的；灵活的 | |
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shafts
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| n.轴( shaft的名词复数 )；（箭、高尔夫球棒等的）杆；通风井；一阵（疼痛、害怕等） | |
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crater
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| n.火山口，弹坑 | |
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craters
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| n.火山口( crater的名词复数 )；弹坑等 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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trampling
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| 踩( trample的现在分词 )； 践踏； 无视； 侵犯 | |
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flattened
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| [医]（水）平扁的，弄平的 | |
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cone
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| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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cones
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| n.（人眼）圆锥细胞；圆锥体( cone的名词复数 )；球果；圆锥形东西；（盛冰淇淋的）锥形蛋卷筒 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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eruption
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| n.火山爆发；（战争等）爆发；（疾病等）发作 | |
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appeased
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| 安抚，抚慰( appease的过去式和过去分词 )； 绥靖（满足另一国的要求以避免战争） | |
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fiery
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| adj.燃烧着的，火红的；暴躁的；激烈的 | |
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cinders
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| n.煤渣( cinder的名词复数 )；炭渣；煤渣路；煤渣跑道 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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purely
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| adv.纯粹地，完全地 | |
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folly
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| n.愚笨，愚蠢，蠢事，蠢行，傻话 | |
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penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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reassured
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| adj.使消除疑虑的；使放心的v.再保证，恢复信心( reassure的过去式和过去分词) | |
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bristling
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| a.竖立的 | |
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scrupulously
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| adv.一丝不苟地；小心翼翼地，多顾虑地 | |
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shrill
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| adj.尖声的；刺耳的；v尖叫 | |
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fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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incessantly
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| ad.不停地 | |
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refreshment
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| n.恢复，精神爽快，提神之事物；（复数）refreshments:点心，茶点 | |
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repose
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| v.(使)休息；n.安息 | |
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ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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delusion
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| n.谬见，欺骗，幻觉，迷惑 | |
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avalanches
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| n.雪崩( avalanche的名词复数 ) | |
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upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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innate
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| adj.天生的，固有的，天赋的 | |
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agility
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| n.敏捷，活泼 | |
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inclination
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| n.倾斜；点头；弯腰；斜坡；倾度；倾向；爱好 | |
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fatigues
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| n.疲劳( fatigue的名词复数 )；杂役；厌倦；（士兵穿的）工作服 | |
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acrobat
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| n.特技演员，杂技演员 | |
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tablecloth
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| n.桌布，台布 | |
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dwellers
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| n.居民，居住者( dweller的名词复数 ) | |
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mutual
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| adj.相互的，彼此的；共同的，共有的 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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eruptions
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| n.喷发，爆发( eruption的名词复数 ) | |
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abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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projection
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| n.发射，计划，突出部分 | |
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buttress
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| n.支撑物；v.支持 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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feverish
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| adj.发烧的，狂热的，兴奋的 | |
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impatience
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| n.不耐烦，急躁 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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prodigious
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| adj.惊人的，奇妙的；异常的；巨大的；庞大的 | |
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pulverized
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| adj.[医]雾化的，粉末状的v.将…弄碎( pulverize的过去式和过去分词 )；将…弄成粉末或尘埃；摧毁；粉碎 | |
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spout
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| v.喷出，涌出；滔滔不绝地讲；n.喷管；水柱 | |
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opaque
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| adj.不透光的；不反光的，不传导的；晦涩的 | |
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glaciers
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| 冰河，冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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prudent
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| adj.谨慎的，有远见的，精打细算的 | |
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101
zigzag
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| n.曲折，之字形；adj.曲折的，锯齿形的；adv.曲折地，成锯齿形地；vt.使曲折；vi.曲折前行 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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windings
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| （道路、河流等）蜿蜒的，弯曲的( winding的名词复数 )； 缠绕( wind的现在分词 )； 卷绕； 转动（把手） | |
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insignificant
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| adj.无关紧要的，可忽略的，无意义的 | |
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misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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106
exhaustion
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| n.耗尽枯竭，疲惫，筋疲力尽，竭尽，详尽无遗的论述 | |
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107
gasp
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| n.喘息，气喘；v.喘息；气吁吁他说 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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isle
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| n.小岛，岛 | |
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