They don’t sell this hot water; no, you go into the great Trinkhalle, and stand around, first on one foot and then on the other, while two or three young girls sit pottering at some sort of ladylike sewing-work in your neighborhood and can’t seem to see you—polite as three-dollar clerks in government offices.
By and by one of these rises painfully, and “stretches”—stretches fists and body heavenward till she raises her heels from the floor, at the same time refreshing20 herself with a yawn of such comprehensiveness that the bulk of her face disappears behind her upper lip and one is able to see how she is constructed inside—then she slowly closes her cavern21, brings down her fists and her heels, comes languidly forward, contemplates22 you contemptuously, draws you a glass of hot water and sets it down where you can get it by reaching for it. You take it and say:
“How much?”—and she returns you, with elaborate indifference23, a beggar’s answer:
“Nach beliebe” (what you please.)
This thing of using the common beggar’s trick and the common beggar’s shibboleth24 to put you on your liberality when you were expecting a simple straightforward25 commercial transaction, adds a little to your prospering26 sense of irritation27. You ignore her reply, and ask again:
“How much?”
—and she calmly, indifferently, repeats:
“Nach Beliebe.”
You are getting angry, but you are trying not to show it; you resolve to keep on asking your question till she changes her answer, or at least her annoyingly indifferent manner. Therefore, if your case be like mine, you two fools stand there, and without perceptible emotion of any kind, or any emphasis on any syllable28, you look blandly29 into each other’s eyes, and hold the following idiotic30 conversation:
“How much?”
“Nach beliebe.”
“How much?”
“Nach beliebe.”
“How much?”
“NACH BELIEBE.”
“How much?”
“Nach beliebe.”
“How much?”
“Nach beliebe.”
“How much?”
“Nach beliebe.”
I do not know what another person would have done, but at this point I gave up; that cast-iron indifference, that tranquil31 contemptuousness, conquered me, and I struck my colors. Now I knew she was used to receiving about a penny from manly32 people who care nothing about the opinions of scullery-maids, and about tuppence from moral cowards; but I laid a silver twenty-five cent piece within her reach and tried to shrivel her up with this sarcastic33 speech:
“If it isn’t enough, will you stoop sufficiently34 from your official dignity to say so?”
She did not shrivel. Without deigning35 to look at me at all, she languidly lifted the coin and bit it!—to see if it was good. Then she turned her back and placidly36 waddled37 to her former roost again, tossing the money into an open till as she went along. She was victor to the last, you see.
I have enlarged upon the ways of this girl because they are typical; her manners are the manners of a goodly number of the Baden-Baden shopkeepers. The shopkeeper there swindles you if he can, and insults you whether he succeeds in swindling you or not. The keepers of baths also take great and patient pains to insult you. The frowsy woman who sat at the desk in the lobby of the great Friederichsbad and sold bath tickets, not only insulted me twice every day, with rigid38 fidelity39 to her great trust, but she took trouble enough to cheat me out of a shilling, one day, to have fairly entitled her to ten. Baden-Baden’s splendid gamblers are gone, only her microscopic40 knaves41 remain.
An English gentleman who had been living there several years, said:
“If you could disguise your nationality, you would not find any insolence42 here. These shopkeepers detest43 the English and despise the Americans; they are rude to both, more especially to ladies of your nationality and mine. If these go shopping without a gentleman or a man-servant, they are tolerably sure to be subjected to petty insolences—insolences of manner and tone, rather than word, though words that are hard to bear are not always wanting. I know of an instance where a shopkeeper tossed a coin back to an American lady with the remark, snappishly uttered, ‘We don’t take French money here.’ And I know of a case where an English lady said to one of these shopkeepers, ‘Don’t you think you ask too much for this article?’ and he replied with the question, ‘Do you think you are obliged to buy it?’ However, these people are not impolite to Russians or Germans. And as to rank, they worship that, for they have long been used to generals and nobles. If you wish to see what abysses servility can descend44, present yourself before a Baden-Baden shopkeeper in the character of a Russian prince.”
It is an inane45 town, filled with sham46, and petty fraud, and snobbery47, but the baths are good. I spoke48 with many people, and they were all agreed in that. I had the twinges of rheumatism unceasingly during three years, but the last one departed after a fortnight’s bathing there, and I have never had one since. I fully19 believe I left my rheumatism in Baden-Baden. Baden-Baden is welcome to it. It was little, but it was all I had to give. I would have preferred to leave something that was catching49, but it was not in my power.
There are several hot springs there, and during two thousand years they have poured forth a never-diminishing abundance of the healing water. This water is conducted in pipe to the numerous bath-houses, and is reduced to an endurable temperature by the addition of cold water. The new Friederichsbad is a very large and beautiful building, and in it one may have any sort of bath that has ever been invented, and with all the additions of herbs and drugs that his ailment may need or that the physician of the establishment may consider a useful thing to put into the water. You go there, enter the great door, get a bow graduated to your style and clothes from the gorgeous portier, and a bath ticket and an insult from the frowsy woman for a quarter; she strikes a bell and a serving-man conducts you down a long hall and shuts you into a commodious50 room which has a washstand, a mirror, a bootjack, and a sofa in it, and there you undress at your leisure.
The room is divided by a great curtain; you draw this curtain aside, and find a large white marble bathtub, with its rim51 sunk to the level of the floor, and with three white marble steps leading down to it. This tub is full of water which is as clear as crystal, and is tempered to 28 degrees Re’aumur (about 95 degrees Fahrenheit). Sunk into the floor, by the tub, is a covered copper52 box which contains some warm towels and a sheet. You look fully as white as an angel when you are stretched out in that limpid53 bath. You remain in it ten minutes, the first time, and afterward54 increase the duration from day to day, till you reach twenty-five or thirty minutes. There you stop. The appointments of the place are so luxurious55, the benefit so marked, the price so moderate, and the insults so sure, that you very soon find yourself adoring the Friederichsbad and infesting56 it.
We had a plain, simple, unpretending, good hotel, in Baden-Baden—the H?tel de France—and alongside my room I had a giggling57, cackling, chattering58 family who always went to bed just two hours after me and always got up two hours ahead of me. But this is common in German hotels; the people generally go to bed long after eleven and get up long before eight. The partitions convey sound like a drum-head, and everybody knows it; but no matter, a German family who are all kindness and consideration in the daytime make apparently no effort to moderate their noises for your benefit at night. They will sing, laugh, and talk loudly, and bang furniture around in a most pitiless way. If you knock on your wall appealingly, they will quiet down and discuss the matter softly among themselves for a moment—then, like the mice, they fall to persecuting59 you again, and as vigorously as before. They keep cruelly late and early hours, for such noisy folk.
Of course, when one begins to find fault with foreign people’s ways, he is very likely to get a reminder60 to look nearer home, before he gets far with it. I open my note-book to see if I can find some more information of a valuable nature about Baden-Baden, and the first thing I fall upon is this:
“Baden-Baden (no date). Lot of vociferous61 Americans at breakfast this morning. Talking at everybody, while pretending to talk among themselves. On their first travels, manifestly. Showing off. The usual signs—airy, easy-going references to grand distances and foreign places. ‘Well good-by, old fellow—if I don’t run across you in Italy, you hunt me up in London before you sail.’”
The next item which I find in my note-book is this one:
“The fact that a band of 6,000 Indians are now murdering our frontiersmen at their impudent62 leisure, and that we are only able to send 1,200 soldiers against them, is utilized63 here to discourage emigration to America. The common people think the Indians are in New Jersey64."
This is a new and peculiar argument against keeping our army down to a ridiculous figure in the matter of numbers. It is rather a striking one, too. I have not distorted the truth in saying that the facts in the above item, about the army and the Indians, are made use of to discourage emigration to America. That the common people should be rather foggy in their geography, and foggy as to the location of the Indians, is a matter for amusement, maybe, but not of surprise.
There is an interesting old cemetery65 in Baden-Baden, and we spent several pleasant hours in wandering through it and spelling out the inscriptions67 on the aged68 tombstones. Apparently after a man has laid there a century or two, and has had a good many people buried on top of him, it is considered that his tombstone is not needed by him any longer. I judge so from the fact that hundreds of old gravestones have been removed from the graves and placed against the inner walls of the cemetery. What artists they had in the old times! They chiseled69 angels and cherubs70 and devils and skeletons on the tombstones in the most lavish71 and generous way—as to supply—but curiously72 grotesque73 and outlandish as to form. It is not always easy to tell which of the figures belong among the blest and which of them among the opposite party. But there was an inscription66, in French, on one of those old stones, which was quaint74 and pretty, and was plainly not the work of any other than a poet. It was to this effect:
Here Reposes75 in God, Caroline de Clery, a Religieuse of St. Denis aged 83 years—and blind. The light was restored to her in Baden the 5th of January, 1839
We made several excursions on foot to the neighboring villages, over winding76 and beautiful roads and through enchanting77 woodland scenery. The woods and roads were similar to those at Heidelberg, but not so bewitching. I suppose that roads and woods which are up to the Heidelberg mark are rare in the world.
Once we wandered clear away to La Favorita Palace, which is several miles from Baden-Baden. The grounds about the palace were fine; the palace was a curiosity. It was built by a Margravine in 1725, and remains78 as she left it at her death. We wandered through a great many of its rooms, and they all had striking peculiarities79 of decoration. For instance, the walls of one room were pretty completely covered with small pictures of the Margravine in all conceivable varieties of fanciful costumes, some of them male.
The walls of another room were covered with grotesquely80 and elaborately figured hand-wrought tapestry81. The musty ancient beds remained in the chambers82, and their quilts and curtains and canopies83 were decorated with curious handwork, and the walls and ceilings frescoed84 with historical and mythological85 scenes in glaring colors. There was enough crazy and rotten rubbish in the building to make a true brick-a-bracker green with envy. A painting in the dining-hall verged86 upon the indelicate—but then the Margravine was herself a trifle indelicate.
It is in every way a wildly and picturesquely87 decorated house, and brimful of interest as a reflection of the character and tastes of that rude bygone time.
In the grounds, a few rods from the palace, stands the Margravine’s chapel88, just as she left it—a coarse wooden structure, wholly barren of ornament89. It is said that the Margravine would give herself up to debauchery and exceedingly fast living for several months at a time, and then retire to this miserable90 wooden den1 and spend a few months in repenting91 and getting ready for another good time. She was a devoted92 Catholic, and was perhaps quite a model sort of a Christian93 as Christians94 went then, in high life.
Tradition says she spent the last two years of her life in the strange den I have been speaking of, after having indulged herself in one final, triumphant95, and satisfying spree. She shut herself up there, without company, and without even a servant, and so abjured96 and forsook97 the world. In her little bit of a kitchen she did her own cooking; she wore a hair shirt next the skin, and castigated98 herself with whips—these aids to grace are exhibited there yet. She prayed and told her beads99, in another little room, before a waxen Virgin100 niched in a little box against the wall; she bedded herself like a slave.
In another small room is an unpainted wooden table, and behind it sit half-life-size waxen figures of the Holy Family, made by the very worst artist that ever lived, perhaps, and clothed in gaudy101, flimsy drapery. [1] The margravine used to bring her meals to this table and dine with the holy family. What an idea that was! What a grisly spectacle it must have been! Imagine it: Those rigid, shock-headed figures, with corpsy complexions102 and fish glass eyes, occupying one side of the table in the constrained103 attitudes and dead fixedness104 that distinguish all men that are born of wax, and this wrinkled, smoldering105 old fire-eater occupying the other side, mumbling106 her prayers and munching107 her sausages in the ghostly stillness and shadowy indistinctness of a winter twilight108. It makes one feel crawly even to think of it.
[1] The Savior was represented as a lad of about fifteen
years of age. This figure had lost one eye.
In this sordid109 place, and clothed, bedded, and fed like a pauper110, this strange princess lived and worshiped during two years, and in it she died. Two or three hundred years ago, this would have made the poor den holy ground; and the church would have set up a miracle-factory there and made plenty of money out of it. The den could be moved into some portions of France and made a good property even now.
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1
den
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| n.兽穴；秘密地方；安静的小房间，私室 | |
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adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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promenade
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| n./v.散步 | |
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populous
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| adj.人口稠密的，人口众多的 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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rheumatism
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| n.风湿病 | |
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stew
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| n.炖汤，焖，烦恼；v.炖汤，焖，忧虑 | |
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invalids
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| 病人，残疾者( invalid的名词复数 ) | |
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melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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canes
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| n.（某些植物，如竹或甘蔗的）茎( cane的名词复数 )；（用于制作家具等的）竹竿；竹杖 | |
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crutches
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| n.拐杖, 支柱 v.支撑 | |
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13
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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ailment
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| n.疾病，小病 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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ailments
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| 疾病（尤指慢性病），不适( ailment的名词复数 ) | |
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virtues
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| 美德( virtue的名词复数 )； 德行； 优点； 长处 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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refreshing
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| adj.使精神振作的，使人清爽的，使人喜欢的 | |
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cavern
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| n.洞穴，大山洞 | |
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contemplates
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| 深思，细想，仔细考虑( contemplate的第三人称单数 )； 注视，凝视； 考虑接受（发生某事的可能性）； 深思熟虑，沉思，苦思冥想 | |
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23
indifference
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| n.不感兴趣，不关心，冷淡，不在乎 | |
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shibboleth
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| n.陈规陋习；口令；暗语 | |
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straightforward
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| adj.正直的，坦率的；易懂的，简单的 | |
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prospering
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| 成功，兴旺( prosper的现在分词 ) | |
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irritation
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| n.激怒，恼怒，生气 | |
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syllable
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| n.音节；vt.分音节 | |
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blandly
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| adv.温和地，殷勤地 | |
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idiotic
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| adj.白痴的 | |
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tranquil
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| adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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manly
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| adj.有男子气概的；adv.男子般地，果断地 | |
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sarcastic
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| adj.讥讽的，讽刺的，嘲弄的 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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deigning
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| v.屈尊，俯就( deign的现在分词 ) | |
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placidly
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| adv.平稳地，平静地 | |
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waddled
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| v.（像鸭子一样）摇摇摆摆地走( waddle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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rigid
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| adj.严格的，死板的；刚硬的，僵硬的 | |
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fidelity
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| n.忠诚，忠实；精确 | |
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microscopic
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| adj.微小的，细微的，极小的，显微的 | |
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knaves
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| n.恶棍，无赖( knave的名词复数 )；（纸牌中的）杰克 | |
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insolence
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| n.傲慢；无礼；厚颜；傲慢的态度 | |
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detest
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| vt.痛恨，憎恶 | |
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descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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inane
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| adj.空虚的，愚蠢的，空洞的 | |
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46
sham
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| n./adj.假冒(的)，虚伪(的) | |
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snobbery
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| n. 充绅士气派, 俗不可耐的性格 | |
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48
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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commodious
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| adj.宽敞的；使用方便的 | |
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51
rim
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| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
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52
copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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limpid
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| adj.清澈的，透明的 | |
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afterward
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| adv.后来；以后 | |
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luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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infesting
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| v.害虫、野兽大批出没于( infest的现在分词 )；遍布于 | |
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giggling
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| v.咯咯地笑( giggle的现在分词 ) | |
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chattering
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| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
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persecuting
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| （尤指宗教或政治信仰的）迫害(~sb. for sth.)( persecute的现在分词 )； 烦扰，困扰或骚扰某人 | |
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reminder
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| n.提醒物，纪念品；暗示，提示 | |
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vociferous
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| adj.喧哗的，大叫大嚷的 | |
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impudent
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| adj.鲁莽的，卑鄙的，厚颜无耻的 | |
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utilized
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| v.利用，使用( utilize的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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jersey
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| n.运动衫 | |
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cemetery
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| n.坟墓，墓地，坟场 | |
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inscription
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| n.（尤指石块上的）刻印文字，铭文，碑文 | |
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inscriptions
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| （作者）题词( inscription的名词复数 )； 献词； 碑文； 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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chiseled
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| adj.凿刻的，轮廓分明的v.凿，雕，镌( chisel的过去式 ) | |
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cherubs
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| 小天使，胖娃娃( cherub的名词复数 ) | |
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lavish
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| adj.无节制的；浪费的；vt.慷慨地给予，挥霍 | |
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curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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grotesque
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| adj.怪诞的，丑陋的；n.怪诞的图案，怪人（物） | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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reposes
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| v.将（手臂等）靠在某人（某物）上( repose的第三人称单数 ) | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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enchanting
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| a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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peculiarities
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| n. 特质, 特性, 怪癖, 古怪 | |
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80
grotesquely
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| adv. 奇异地,荒诞地 | |
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81
tapestry
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| n.挂毯，丰富多采的画面 | |
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82
chambers
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| n.房间( chamber的名词复数 )；（议会的）议院；卧室；会议厅 | |
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83
canopies
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| （宝座或床等上面的）华盖( canopy的名词复数 )； （飞行器上的）座舱罩； 任何悬于上空的覆盖物； 森林中天棚似的树荫 | |
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84
frescoed
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| 壁画( fresco的名词复数 )； 温壁画技法，湿壁画 | |
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85
mythological
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| adj.神话的 | |
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verged
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| 接近，逼近（verge的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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picturesquely
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chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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89
ornament
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| v.装饰，美化；n.装饰，装饰物 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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repenting
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| 对（自己的所为）感到懊悔或忏悔( repent的现在分词 ) | |
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devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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Christians
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| n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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95
triumphant
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| adj.胜利的，成功的；狂欢的，喜悦的 | |
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abjured
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| v.发誓放弃( abjure的过去式和过去分词 )；郑重放弃（意见）；宣布撤回（声明等）；避免 | |
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forsook
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| forsake的过去式 | |
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castigated
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| v.严厉责骂、批评或惩罚（某人）( castigate的过去式 ) | |
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beads
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| n.（空心）小珠子( bead的名词复数 )；水珠；珠子项链 | |
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100
virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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101
gaudy
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| adj.华而不实的；俗丽的 | |
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102
complexions
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| 肤色( complexion的名词复数 )； 面色； 局面； 性质 | |
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103
constrained
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| adj.束缚的,节制的 | |
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104
fixedness
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| n.固定；稳定；稳固 | |
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105
smoldering
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| v.用文火焖烧，熏烧，慢燃( smolder的现在分词 ) | |
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106
mumbling
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| 含糊地说某事，叽咕，咕哝( mumble的现在分词 ) | |
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107
munching
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| v.用力咀嚼（某物），大嚼( munch的现在分词 ) | |
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108
twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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109
sordid
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| adj.肮脏的，不干净的，卑鄙的，暗淡的 | |
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pauper
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| n.贫民，被救济者，穷人 | |
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