When we began that ascent2, we could see a microscopic3 chalet perched away up against heaven on what seemed to be the highest mountain near us. It was on our right, across the narrow head of the valley. But when we got up abreast4 it on its own level, mountains were towering high above on every hand, and we saw that its altitude was just about that of the little Gasternthal which we had visited the evening before. Still it seemed a long way up in the air, in that waste and lonely wilderness6 of rocks. It had an unfenced grass-plot in front of it which seemed about as big as a billiard-table, and this grass-plot slanted8 so sharply downward, and was so brief, and ended so exceedingly soon at the verge9 of the absolute precipice10, that it was a shuddery11 thing to think of a person’s venturing to trust his foot on an incline so situated12 at all. Suppose a man stepped on an orange peel in that yard; there would be nothing for him to seize; nothing could keep him from rolling; five revolutions would bring him to the edge, and over he would go.
What a frightful13 distance he would fall!—for there are very few birds that fly as high as his starting-point. He would strike and bounce, two or three times, on his way down, but this would be no advantage to him. I would as soon take an airing on the slant7 of a rainbow as in such a front yard. I would rather, in fact, for the distance down would be about the same, and it is pleasanter to slide than to bounce. I could not see how the peasants got up to that chalet—the region seemed too steep for anything but a balloon.
As we strolled on, climbing up higher and higher, we were continually bringing neighboring peaks into view and lofty prominence14 which had been hidden behind lower peaks before; so by and by, while standing15 before a group of these giants, we looked around for the chalet again; there it was, away down below us, apparently16 on an inconspicuous ridge17 in the valley! It was as far below us, now, as it had been above us when we were beginning the ascent.
After a while the path led us along a railed precipice, and we looked over—far beneath us was the snug18 parlor19 again, the little Gasternthal, with its water jets spouting20 from the face of its rock walls. We could have dropped a stone into it. We had been finding the top of the world all along—and always finding a still higher top stealing into view in a disappointing way just ahead; when we looked down into the Gasternthal we felt pretty sure that we had reached the genuine top at last, but it was not so; there were much higher altitudes to be scaled yet. We were still in the pleasant shade of forest trees, we were still in a region which was cushioned with beautiful mosses21 and aglow22 with the many-tinted luster23 of innumerable wild flowers.
We found, indeed, more interest in the wild flowers than in anything else. We gathered a specimen24 or two of every kind which we were unacquainted with; so we had sumptuous25 bouquets26. But one of the chief interests lay in chasing the seasons of the year up the mountain, and determining them by the presence of flowers and berries which we were acquainted with. For instance, it was the end of August at the level of the sea; in the Kandersteg valley at the base of the pass, we found flowers which would not be due at the sea-level for two or three weeks; higher up, we entered October, and gathered fringed gentians. I made no notes, and have forgotten the details, but the construction of the floral calendar was very entertaining while it lasted.
In the high regions we found rich store of the splendid red flower called the Alpine27 rose, but we did not find any examples of the ugly Swiss favorite called Edelweiss. Its name seems to indicate that it is a noble flower and that it is white. It may be noble enough, but it is not attractive, and it is not white. The fuzzy blossom is the color of bad cigar ashes, and appears to be made of a cheap quality of gray plush. It has a noble and distant way of confining itself to the high altitudes, but that is probably on account of its looks; it apparently has no monopoly of those upper altitudes, however, for they are sometimes intruded28 upon by some of the loveliest of the valley families of wild flowers. Everybody in the Alps wears a sprig of Edelweiss in his hat. It is the native’s pet, and also the tourist’s.
All the morning, as we loafed along, having a good time, other pedestrians29 went staving by us with vigorous strides, and with the intent and determined30 look of men who were walking for a wager31. These wore loose knee-breeches, long yarn32 stockings, and hobnailed high-laced walking-shoes. They were gentlemen who would go home to England or Germany and tell how many miles they had beaten the guide-book every day. But I doubted if they ever had much real fun, outside of the mere33 magnificent exhilaration of the tramp through the green valleys and the breezy heights; for they were almost always alone, and even the finest scenery loses incalculably when there is no one to enjoy it with.
All the morning an endless double procession of mule-mounted tourists filed past us along the narrow path—the one procession going, the other coming. We had taken a good deal of trouble to teach ourselves the kindly34 German custom of saluting35 all strangers with doffed36 hat, and we resolutely37 clung to it, that morning, although it kept us bareheaded most of the time and was not always responded to. Still we found an interest in the thing, because we naturally liked to know who were English and Americans among the passers-by. All continental38 natives responded of course; so did some of the English and Americans, but, as a general thing, these two races gave no sign. Whenever a man or a woman showed us cold neglect, we spoke39 up confidently in our own tongue and asked for such information as we happened to need, and we always got a reply in the same language. The English and American folk are not less kindly than other races, they are only more reserved, and that comes of habit and education. In one dreary41, rocky waste, away above the line of vegetation, we met a procession of twenty-five mounted young men, all from America. We got answering bows enough from these, of course, for they were of an age to learn to do in Rome as Rome does, without much effort.
At one extremity42 of this patch of desolation, overhung by bare and forbidding crags which husbanded drifts of everlasting43 snow in their shaded cavities, was a small stretch of thin and discouraged grass, and a man and a family of pigs were actually living here in some shanties45. Consequently this place could be really reckoned as “property”; it had a money value, and was doubtless taxed. I think it must have marked the limit of real estate in this world. It would be hard to set a money value upon any piece of earth that lies between that spot and the empty realm of space. That man may claim the distinction of owning the end of the world, for if there is any definite end to the world he has certainly found it.
From here forward we moved through a storm-swept and smileless desolation. All about us rose gigantic masses, crags, and ramparts of bare and dreary rock, with not a vestige46 or semblance47 of plant or tree or flower anywhere, or glimpse of any creature that had life. The frost and the tempests of unnumbered ages had battered48 and hacked49 at these cliffs, with a deathless energy, destroying them piecemeal50; so all the region about their bases was a tumbled chaos51 of great fragments which had been split off and hurled52 to the ground. Soiled and aged44 banks of snow lay close about our path. The ghastly desolation of the place was as tremendously complete as if Doré had furnished the working-plans for it. But every now and then, through the stern gateways53 around us we caught a view of some neighboring majestic54 dome55, sheathed56 with glittering ice, and displaying its white purity at an elevation57 compared to which ours was groveling and plebeian58, and this spectacle always chained one’s interest and admiration59 at once, and made him forget there was anything ugly in the world.
I have just said that there was nothing but death and desolation in these hideous60 places, but I forgot. In the most forlorn and arid61 and dismal62 one of all, where the racked and splintered debris63 was thickest, where the ancient patches of snow lay against the very path, where the winds blew bitterest and the general aspect was mournfulest and dreariest64, and furthest from any suggestion of cheer or hope, I found a solitary65 wee forget-me-not flourishing away, not a droop66 about it anywhere, but holding its bright blue star up with the prettiest and gallantest air in the world, the only happy spirit, the only smiling thing, in all that grisly desert. She seemed to say, “Cheer up!—as long as we are here, let us make the best of it.” I judged she had earned a right to a more hospitable67 place; so I plucked her up and sent her to America to a friend who would respect her for the fight she had made, all by her small self, to make a whole vast despondent68 Alpine desolation stop breaking its heart over the unalterable, and hold up its head and look at the bright side of things for once.
We stopped for a nooning at a strongly built little inn called the Schwarenbach. It sits in a lonely spot among the peaks, where it is swept by the trailing fringes of the cloud-rack, and is rained on, and snowed on, and pelted69 and persecuted70 by the storms, nearly every day of its life. It was the only habitation in the whole Gemmi Pass.
Close at hand, now, was a chance for a blood-curdling Alpine adventure. Close at hand was the snowy mass of the Great Altels cooling its topknot in the sky and daring us to an ascent. I was fired with the idea, and immediately made up my mind to procure71 the necessary guides, ropes, etc., and undertake it. I instructed Harris to go to the landlord of the inn and set him about our preparations. Meantime, I went diligently72 to work to read up and find out what this much-talked-of mountain-climbing was like, and how one should go about it—for in these matters I was ignorant. I opened Mr. Hinchliff’s Summer Months Among The Alps (published 1857), and selected his account of his ascent of Monte Rosa.
It began:
“It is very difficult to free the mind from excitement on the evening before a grand expedition—”
I saw that I was too calm; so I walked the room a while and worked myself into a high excitement; but the book’s next remark—that the adventurer must get up at two in the morning—came as near as anything to flatting it all out again. However, I reinforced it, and read on, about how Mr. Hinchliff dressed by candle-light and was “soon down among the guides, who were bustling73 about in the passage, packing provisions, and making every preparation for the start”; and how he glanced out into the cold clear night and saw that—
“The whole sky was blazing with stars, larger and brighter than they appear through the dense74 atmosphere breathed by inhabitants of the lower parts of the earth. They seemed actually suspended from the dark vault75 of heaven, and their gentle light shed a fairylike gleam over the snow-fields around the foot of the Matterhorn, which raised its stupendous pinnacle76 on high, penetrating77 to the heart of the Great Bear, and crowning itself with a diadem78 of his magnificent stars. Not a sound disturbed the deep tranquillity79 of the night, except the distant roar of streams which rush from the high plateau of the St. Theodule glacier80, and fall headlong over precipitous rocks till they lose themselves in the mazes81 of the Gorner glacier.”
He took his hot toast and coffee, and then about half past three his caravan82 of ten men filed away from the Riffel Hotel, and began the steep climb. At half past five he happened to turn around, and “beheld the glorious spectacle of the Matterhorn, just touched by the rosy-fingered morning, and looking like a huge pyramid of fire rising out of the barren ocean of ice and rock around it.” Then the Breithorn and the Dent40 Blanche caught the radiant glow; but “the intervening mass of Monte Rosa made it necessary for us to climb many long hours before we could hope to see the sun himself, yet the whole air soon grew warmer after the splendid birth of the day.”
He gazed at the lofty crown of Monte Rosa and the wastes of snow that guarded its steep approaches, and the chief guide delivered the opinion that no man could conquer their awful heights and put his foot upon that summit. But the adventurers moved steadily83 on, nevertheless.
They toiled84 up, and up, and still up; they passed the Grand Plateau; then toiled up a steep shoulder of the mountain, clinging like flies to its rugged85 face; and now they were confronted by a tremendous wall from which great blocks of ice and snow were evidently in the habit of falling. They turned aside to skirt this wall, and gradually ascended87 until their way was barred by a “maze of gigantic snow crevices,”—so they turned aside again, and “began a long climb of sufficient steepness to make a zigzag88 course necessary."
Fatigue89 compelled them to halt frequently, for a moment or two. At one of these halts somebody called out, “Look at Mont Blanc!” and “we were at once made aware of the very great height we had attained91 by actually seeing the monarch92 of the Alps and his attendant satellites right over the top of the Breithorn, itself at least 14,000 feet high!”
These people moved in single file, and were all tied to a strong rope, at regular distances apart, so that if one of them slipped on those giddy heights, the others could brace93 themselves on their alpenstocks and save him from darting94 into the valley, thousands of feet below. By and by they came to an ice-coated ridge which was tilted95 up at a sharp angle, and had a precipice on one side of it. They had to climb this, so the guide in the lead cut steps in the ice with his hatchet96, and as fast as he took his toes out of one of these slight holes, the toes of the man behind him occupied it.
“Slowly and steadily we kept on our way over this dangerous part of the ascent, and I dare say it was fortunate for some of us that attention was distracted from the head by the paramount97 necessity of looking after the feet; for, while on the left the incline of ice was so steep that it would be impossible for any man to save himself in case of a slip, unless the others could hold him up, on the right we might drop a pebble98 from the hand over precipices99 of unknown extent down upon the tremendous glacier below.
“Great caution, therefore, was absolutely necessary, and in this exposed situation we were attacked by all the fury of that grand enemy of aspirants100 to Monte Rosa—a severe and bitterly cold wind from the north. The fine powdery snow was driven past us in the clouds, penetrating the interstices of our clothes, and the pieces of ice which flew from the blows of Peter’s ax were whisked into the air, and then dashed over the precipice. We had quite enough to do to prevent ourselves from being served in the same ruthless fashion, and now and then, in the more violent gusts101 of wind, were glad to stick our alpenstocks into the ice and hold on hard.”
Having surmounted102 this perilous103 steep, they sat down and took a brief rest with their backs against a sheltering rock and their heels dangling104 over a bottomless abyss; then they climbed to the base of another ridge—a more difficult and dangerous one still:
“The whole of the ridge was exceedingly narrow, and the fall on each side desperately105 steep, but the ice in some of these intervals106 between the masses of rock assumed the form of a mere sharp edge, almost like a knife; these places, though not more than three or four short paces in length, looked uncommonly107 awkward; but, like the sword leading true believers to the gates of Paradise, they must needs be passed before we could attain90 to the summit of our ambition. These were in one or two places so narrow, that in stepping over them with toes well turned out for greater security, one end of the foot projected over the awful precipice on the right, while the other was on the beginning of the ice slope on the left, which was scarcely less steep than the rocks. On these occasions Peter would take my hand, and each of us stretching as far as we could, he was thus enabled to get a firm footing two paces or rather more from me, whence a spring would probably bring him to the rock on the other side; then, turning around, he called to me to come, and, taking a couple of steps carefully, I was met at the third by his outstretched hand ready to clasp mine, and in a moment stood by his side. The others followed in much the same fashion. Once my right foot slipped on the side toward the precipice, but I threw out my left arm in a moment so that it caught the icy edge under my armpit as I fell, and supported me considerably108; at the same instant I cast my eyes down the side on which I had slipped, and contrived109 to plant my right foot on a piece of rock as large as a cricket-ball, which chanced to protrude110 through the ice, on the very edge of the precipice. Being thus anchored fore5 and aft, as it were, I believe I could easily have recovered myself, even if I had been alone, though it must be confessed the situation would have been an awful one; as it was, however, a jerk from Peter settled the matter very soon, and I was on my legs all right in an instant. The rope is an immense help in places of this kind."
Now they arrived at the base of a great knob or dome veneered with ice and powdered with snow—the utmost, summit, the last bit of solidity between them and the hollow vault of heaven. They set to work with their hatchets111, and were soon creeping, insectlike, up its surface, with their heels projecting over the thinnest kind of nothingness, thickened up a little with a few wandering shreds112 and films of cloud moving in a lazy procession far below. Presently, one man’s toe-hold broke and he fell! There he dangled113 in mid-air at the end of the rope, like a spider, till his friends above hauled him into place again.
A little bit later, the party stood upon the wee pedestal of the very summit, in a driving wind, and looked out upon the vast green expanses of Italy and a shoreless ocean of billowy Alps.
When I had read thus far, Harris broke into the room in a noble excitement and said the ropes and the guides were secured, and asked if I was ready. I said I believed I wouldn’t ascend86 the Altels this time. I said Alp-climbing was a different thing from what I had supposed it was, and so I judged we had better study its points a little more before we went definitely into it. But I told him to retain the guides and order them to follow us to Zermatt, because I meant to use them there. I said I could feel the spirit of adventure beginning to stir in me, and was sure that the fell fascination114 of Alp-climbing would soon be upon me. I said he could make up his mind to it that we would do a deed before we were a week older which would make the hair of the timid curl with fright.
This made Harris happy, and filled him with ambitious anticipations115. He went at once to tell the guides to follow us to Zermatt and bring all their paraphernalia116 with them.
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1
satchels
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| n.书包( satchel的名词复数 ) | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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microscopic
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| adj.微小的，细微的，极小的，显微的 | |
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abreast
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| adv.并排地；跟上(时代)的步伐，与…并进地 | |
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fore
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| adv.在前面；adj.先前的；在前部的；n.前部 | |
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wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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slant
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| v.倾斜，倾向性地编写或报道；n.斜面，倾向 | |
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slanted
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| 有偏见的； 倾斜的 | |
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verge
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| n.边，边缘；v.接近，濒临 | |
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precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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shuddery
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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frightful
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| adj.可怕的；讨厌的 | |
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14
prominence
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| n.突出；显著；杰出；重要 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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snug
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| adj.温暖舒适的，合身的，安全的；v.使整洁干净，舒适地依靠，紧贴；n.（英）酒吧里的私房 | |
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parlor
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| n.店铺，营业室；会客室，客厅 | |
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spouting
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| n.水落管系统v.（指液体）喷出( spout的现在分词 )；滔滔不绝地讲；喋喋不休地说；喷水 | |
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mosses
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| n. 藓类, 苔藓植物 名词moss的复数形式 | |
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aglow
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| adj.发亮的；发红的；adv.发亮地 | |
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luster
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| n.光辉；光泽，光亮；荣誉 | |
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specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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sumptuous
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| adj.豪华的，奢侈的，华丽的 | |
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bouquets
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| n.花束( bouquet的名词复数 )；（酒的）芳香 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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intruded
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| n.侵入的，推进的v.侵入，侵扰，打扰( intrude的过去式和过去分词 )；把…强加于 | |
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pedestrians
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| n.步行者( pedestrian的名词复数 ) | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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wager
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| n.赌注；vt.押注，打赌 | |
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yarn
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| n.纱，纱线，纺线；奇闻漫谈，旅行轶事 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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saluting
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| v.欢迎，致敬( salute的现在分词 )；赞扬，赞颂 | |
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doffed
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| v.脱去，（尤指）脱帽( doff的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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resolutely
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| adj.坚决地，果断地 | |
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continental
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| adj.大陆的，大陆性的，欧洲大陆的 | |
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spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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dent
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| n.凹痕，凹坑；初步进展 | |
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dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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extremity
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| n.末端，尽头；尽力；终极；极度 | |
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everlasting
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| adj.永恒的，持久的，无止境的 | |
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aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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shanties
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| n.简陋的小木屋( shanty的名词复数 )；铁皮棚屋；船工号子；船歌 | |
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vestige
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| n.痕迹，遗迹，残余 | |
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semblance
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| n.外貌，外表 | |
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battered
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| adj.磨损的；v.连续猛击；磨损 | |
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hacked
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| 生气 | |
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piecemeal
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| adj.零碎的；n.片，块；adv.逐渐地；v.弄成碎块 | |
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chaos
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| n.混乱，无秩序 | |
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52
hurled
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| v.猛投，用力掷( hurl的过去式和过去分词 )；大声叫骂 | |
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gateways
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| n.网关( gateway的名词复数 )；门径；方法；大门口 | |
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54
majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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56
sheathed
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| adj.雕塑像下半身包在鞘中的；覆盖的；铠装的；装鞘了的v.将（刀、剑等）插入鞘( sheathe的过去式和过去分词 )；包，覆盖 | |
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elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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58
plebeian
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| adj.粗俗的；平民的；n.平民；庶民 | |
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59
admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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60
hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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61
arid
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| adj.干旱的；(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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dismal
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| adj.阴沉的，凄凉的，令人忧郁的，差劲的 | |
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debris
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| n.瓦砾堆，废墟，碎片 | |
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dreariest
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| 使人闷闷不乐或沮丧的( dreary的最高级 )； 阴沉的； 令人厌烦的； 单调的 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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droop
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| v.低垂，下垂；凋萎，萎靡 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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despondent
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| adj.失望的，沮丧的，泄气的 | |
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69
pelted
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| （连续地）投掷( pelt的过去式和过去分词 )； 连续抨击； 攻击； 剥去…的皮 | |
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persecuted
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| （尤指宗教或政治信仰的）迫害(~sb. for sth.)( persecute的过去式和过去分词 )； 烦扰，困扰或骚扰某人 | |
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71
procure
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| vt.获得，取得，促成；vi.拉皮条 | |
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diligently
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| ad.industriously;carefully | |
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bustling
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| adj.喧闹的 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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75
vault
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| n.拱形圆顶，地窖，地下室 | |
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pinnacle
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| n.尖塔，尖顶，山峰；(喻)顶峰 | |
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penetrating
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| adj.（声音）响亮的，尖锐的adj.（气味）刺激的adj.（思想）敏锐的，有洞察力的 | |
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diadem
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| n.王冠，冕 | |
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tranquillity
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| n. 平静, 安静 | |
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glacier
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| n.冰川，冰河 | |
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mazes
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| 迷宫( maze的名词复数 )； 纷繁复杂的规则； 复杂难懂的细节； 迷宫图 | |
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caravan
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| n.大蓬车；活动房屋 | |
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steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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toiled
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| 长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的过去式和过去分词 )； 艰难缓慢地移动，跋涉 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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zigzag
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| n.曲折，之字形；adj.曲折的，锯齿形的；adv.曲折地，成锯齿形地；vt.使曲折；vi.曲折前行 | |
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fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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attain
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| vt.达到，获得，完成 | |
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attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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monarch
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| n.帝王，君主，最高统治者 | |
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brace
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| n. 支柱,曲柄,大括号; v. 绷紧,顶住,(为困难或坏事)做准备 | |
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darting
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| v.投掷，投射( dart的现在分词 )；向前冲，飞奔 | |
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tilted
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| v. 倾斜的 | |
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hatchet
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| n.短柄小斧；v.扼杀 | |
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paramount
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| a.最重要的，最高权力的 | |
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pebble
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| n.卵石，小圆石 | |
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precipices
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| n.悬崖，峭壁( precipice的名词复数 ) | |
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aspirants
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| n.有志向或渴望获得…的人( aspirant的名词复数 )v.渴望的，有抱负的，追求名誉或地位的( aspirant的第三人称单数 )；有志向或渴望获得…的人 | |
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101
gusts
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| 一阵强风( gust的名词复数 )； （怒、笑等的）爆发； （感情的）迸发； 发作 | |
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102
surmounted
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| 战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 )； 克服（困难）； 居于…之上； 在…顶上 | |
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103
perilous
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| adj.危险的，冒险的 | |
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104
dangling
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| 悬吊着( dangle的现在分词 )； 摆动不定； 用某事物诱惑…； 吊胃口 | |
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105
desperately
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| adv.极度渴望地，绝望地，孤注一掷地 | |
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106
intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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107
uncommonly
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| adv. 稀罕(极，非常) | |
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108
considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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109
contrived
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| adj.不自然的，做作的；虚构的 | |
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110
protrude
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| v.使突出，伸出，突出 | |
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111
hatchets
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| n.短柄小斧( hatchet的名词复数 )；恶毒攻击；诽谤；休战 | |
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112
shreds
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| v.撕碎，切碎( shred的第三人称单数 )；用撕毁机撕毁（文件） | |
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113
dangled
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| 悬吊着( dangle的过去式和过去分词 )； 摆动不定； 用某事物诱惑…； 吊胃口 | |
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114
fascination
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| n.令人着迷的事物，魅力，迷恋 | |
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115
anticipations
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| 预期( anticipation的名词复数 )； 预测； （信托财产收益的）预支； 预期的事物 | |
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116
paraphernalia
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| n.装备；随身用品 | |
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