(From a drawing by J. Bernhard Alberts, made in 1916)
In March, 1766, John Jennings, a Philadelphia merchant, going down the Ohio with a cargo1 of goods for Fort de Chartres, Illinois, notes in his Journal that he stopped for an hour near “a large rock with a cave in it,” some twenty-five miles below the mouth of the Wabash River. The earliest record of a homeseeking pioneer who came to the Cave-in-Rock country and there began an overland trip into Illinois dates back to about 1780, when Captain Nathaniel Hull2, of Massachusetts, appeared at what later became Ford’s Ferry. “He and several other young men,” writes Governor John Reynolds in his Pioneer History of Illinois, “descended the Ohio to a point near Ford’s Ferry on that river [for a while known as Hull’s Landing and later as Robin’s Ferry] and came across by land to Kaskaskia.... At this day the Indians were not hostile as afterwards, so that Hull and party escaped through the wilderness3 without injury.” Nor had any white man as yet practiced piracy4 on the lower Ohio.
Victor Collot, a French engineer, is one of the first writers who stopped at the Cave and published a brief description of it. He knew of its existence long before he arrived, for his book, A Journey in America, shows that he had planned to stop at the “Big Cave,” and did so in the summer of 1796 when he went down the river to New Orleans.
A few months later the place was visited by Andrew Ellicott, then on his way to Natchez for the purpose of determining the boundary line between the United States and Spain. An entry in his Journal, dated December 15, 1796, shows he “dined at the Great Cave ... one of the greatest natural curiosities on the river.”
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On April 16, 1797, Francis Baily, the English astronomer5, stopped there. His Journal of a Tour in the Unsettled Parts of North America contains a few pages on the “Big Cave.” Among other things he says, “its entrance was on a landing-place. It had somewhat the appearance of an immense oven. We entered it and found the sides very damp.... We beheld6 a number of names cut in the sides of the cave, which in this solitary7 place, and cut off as we were from society, gave us a degree of pleasure to look over.” Baily apparently8 heard of no outlaws10 during his short stay. This probably was due to the fact that his visit was made at a time when the Cave was very damp, as is frequently the case in spring. Had he appeared later, he might not have survived to tell of his interesting travels in America, for during the greater part of the year 1797 the place was occupied by the notorious Mason family.
Perrin du Lac, in his Travels through the two Louisianas, writes that he embarked11 at Pittsburgh, April 22, 1802, “in a pirogue thirty feet long and three feet broad” and that a few weeks later he stopped at the Cave. He says “it is considered one of the greatest natural curiosities in North America.”
The first detailed12 description of Cave-in-Rock ever printed, as far as now known, appeared in one of the earliest editions of Zadok Cramer’s The Ohio and Mississippi Navigator and was republished in the appendix of Journal of a Tour, 1805, by Thaddeus M. Harris without credit to Cramer.
Thomas Ashe, an unreliable English traveler, wrote an account of Cave-in-Rock shortly after the Cramer or the so-called Harris description was published, and at a time when reports of some of the early robberies that had been committed there were still in fresh circulation.
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His book entitled Travels in America performed in 1806, contains a chapter of fabrications headed “Cave in the Rock, Ohio Bank, September, 1806.”
In July, 1807, Christian13 Schultz, then a young man, started from Pittsburgh down the Ohio in a flatboat. He arrived at “The Cave in the Rock” about October 1, continued his trip to New Orleans, and returned, via ship, to New York. In his Travels on an Inland Voyage, he devotes a few pages to the Cave, saying, among other things:
“It is a very curious cavern14.... I could not help observing what a very convenient situation this would be for a hermit15, or for a convent of monks16.... I have no doubt that it has been the dwelling17 of some person or persons, as the marks of smoke and likewise some wooden hooks affixed19 to the walls sufficiently20 prove. Formerly21, perhaps, it was inhabited by Indians; but since, with more probability, by a gang of that banditti, headed by Mason and others, who, a few years ago, infested22 this part of the country and committed a great number of robberies and murders....”
Fortesque Cuming, an unprejudiced Englishman, wrote in his Tour to the Western Country that the Cave is “one of the finest grottoes or caverns23 I have ever seen.” This interesting traveler, in January, 1807, proceeded to Maysville, Kentucky, by boat, and from there made horseback trips to central Kentucky and Ohio. Returning to Pittsburgh, he started, on May 7, down the Ohio in a flatboat for New Orleans. From old Bruinsburg, a few miles above Natchez, he visited old Greenville. In this town about three years before, one of the Cave-in-Rock outlaws had been convicted under unusual circumstances and hanged and buried in an
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unusual manner. When traveling by boat Cuming always carried a few skiffs in order to get ashore24 more easily. On May 18, 1807, a few minutes after passing the head of Cave-in-Rock Island, he landed at what is known as Cave Spring, a cave-like opening a few hundred yards above Cave-in-Rock from which a strong spring of water constantly flows. This crevice25 in Cave-in-Rock bluff26 is about nine feet high, three feet wide, and extends back some forty feet. Cuming at first mistook it for the famous Cave, as has been done by more than one traveler since his day. In his sketch27 pertaining28 to his visit to Cave-in-Rock he writes:
“Rowing along shore [below Cave Spring] with the skiff, we were soon undeceived as to that’s being the Rocking Cave, as a third of a mile lower down, one of the finest grottoes or caverns I have ever seen opened suddenly to view, resembling the choir29 of a large church as we looked directly into it. We landed immediately under it and entered it. It is natural, but it is evidently improved by art in the cutting of an entrance three feet wide through the rock in the very center, leaving a projection30 on each hand, excavated31 above to the whole breadth of the cavern, the projections32 resembling galleries.... It is crowned by large cedars33, and black and white oaks, some of which impend34 over, and several beautiful shrubs35 and flowers, particularly very rich columbines, are thickly scattered36 all around the entrance.... Standing37 on the outside, the appearance of some of the company at the inner end of the cave was truly picturesque38, they being diminished on the eye to half their size, and removed to three times their real distance.
“There is a perpendicular39 rocky bluff just opposite the lower end of Cave Island, about two hundred yards
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above the Cave, where the river narrows to less than half a mile wide, forming a fine situation for fortification.”
Thomas Nuttall probably was the last distinguished40 traveler who came down the Ohio in a flatboat and commented on the Cave. In his Journal of Travels into the Arkansa Territory he states that he and his party left Shawneetown December 14, 1818. After floating a short distance they came up with three other flatboats and, lashing41 them together, proceeded upon an all-night journey. He further comments: “The river is here very wide and magnificent and chequered with many islands. The banks of Battery Rock, Rock-in-Cave, and other places are bold and rocky with bordering cliffs. The Occidental wilderness appears to here retain its primeval solitude42; its gloomy forests are yet unbroken by the hand of man; they are only penetrated43 by the wandering hunter and the roaming savage44.”
The early western travelers already cited, and a number of their contemporaries and followers45 who saw the Cave, published descriptions or references that agree in the main, but each, in his own way, was evidently more impressed by certain of its various features than were some of the others who visited the place. A few speculated upon it as an Indian temple of prehistoric46 times. Some commented upon it from a geological standpoint. A number were especially interested in the names they found carved on the walls; some in the trees that grew around the opening. Others dwelt upon it as a rendezvous47 of outlaws.
For what various purposes the Cave may have been used in prehistoric times by Mound48-builders and Indians, or even Cave Dwellers49, is a question for archaeologists
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and ethnologists. There is far less physical evidence to indicate a previous presence of robbers and counterfeiters than there is to prove that the place was inhabited by prehistoric man. A rusty50 home-made dagger51 blade and a part of a counterfeiter’s mold are the only relics52 that point toward the outlaw9 occupancy. On the other hand, five well-defined mound sites in the level fields above Cave-in-Rock bluff, and the many flint and stone implements53 picked up during the past century in and near the Cave indicate beyond doubt the former presence of Indians and Mound-builders. In April, 1918, Robert L. Yeakey, while spading his garden on this bluff, unearthed54 a carved stone image, six inches high and four inches wide, weighing two pounds, six ounces, representing a man in squatting55 position. The probability that the image is an idol56 gives strength to the inference that the Cave was used as a temple some time in the prehistoric past.
The mounds57 are additional evidence to this effect. These were opened many years ago and have since been plowed58 over often. Each contained, it is said, from five to ten human skeletons. The bodies had been placed in a stone-walled sepulcher59 that was covered with flags of stone a few inches thick, over which a circular mound of earth was thrown. The fact that each of these mounds contained a number of skeletons, apparently placed there at one time, leads many to the conclusion that a battle, or battles, must have been fought in or near the Cave and that all, or some, of the dead were buried together. Scientists advance a plausible60 explanation of this: “We know not if these burials indicate famine, pestilence61, war, or unholy sacrifice. We can only conjecture62 that they were not graves of persons who had died a natural death.” Because of
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the Cave’s temple-like form and its proximity63 to these old mounds, it appears more probable that they were erected64 in connection with the ceremony of “unholy sacrifice” than for any of the three other suggested causes.
The Harris description of the Cave, written about 1803, refers to it as “the habitation of the Great Spirit.” Some thirty years later, Edmund Flagg, in The Far West, written after his visit to “Rock-Inn-Cave,” says: “Like all other curiosities of Nature, this cavern was, by the Indian tribes, deemed the residence of a Manito, or spirit, evil or propitious65, concerning whom many a wild legend yet lives among their simple-hearted posterity66. They never pass the dwelling place of the divinity without discharging their guns (an ordinary mark of respect) or making some other offering propitiatory67 of his favor.”
From official records we learn that the section of the country in which Cave-in-Rock is embraced was sold, in 1803, to the United States by the Kaskaskia tribe. In 1818, when the sale was confirmed by the same Indians and the three other tribes then constituting the Illinois confederacy, it became unchallenged government property. Thus, when the Masons, the Harpes, and other early outlaws held forth68 there, it was still in the Indians’ territory.
From a geological standpoint, the Cave is evidently nothing more than a prosaic69 hole in a limestone70 bluff. In neither the main cave nor the crevices71 above are there any stalactites or stalagmites, but an incrustation resembling such a formation occurs here and there on the walls. In 1818, Henry R. Schoolcraft, in his Personal Memoirs72, says: “The cave itself is a striking object for its large and yawning mouth, but to the geologist73
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presents nothing novel.” Collot, in 1796, expressed the opinion that “it is an excavation74 made in the rocks by the continual beating of the flood.” In a Report published in 1866, A. H. Worthen, director of the Geological Survey of Illinois, states that “the limestone (St. Louis limestone) is quite cherty and the Cave has probably been formed by the action of water percolating75 through crevices of the rock and by the eroding76 influences of the atmosphere.” Neither of these explanations is satisfactory. No other has been found. Cave-in-Rock has the appearance of a section of a large cave that was formed by an underground stream in some remote geological age, and later disconnected, by upheavals77, from the other parts of the subterranean78 passage. Some of the other parts may still exist. Sulphur Springs Cave, four miles southwest of Equality, may be one. Bigsby Cave, eight miles north of Cave-in-Rock, may be another. Hardin County is besprinkled with many sinkholes, the outlets80 of which are unknown. The “Big Sink,” four miles north of the Cave, covers about one hundred acres. Cave-in-Rock may have been an outlet79 for some of these sinkholes until upheavals made such drainage impossible.
In early days the virgin81 forests retarded82, to a great extent, the water of the heavy rains, and as a result floods were less frequent and less severe. It is probable that when Cave-in-Rock and the country about were covered with trees the place was damper than now, for the water then slowly seeped83 down from the tree-covered surface. Nevertheless, it was sufficiently dry to serve as a good shelter not only for outlaws, who frequently occupied it, but also for men and women going down the river in flatboats.
Today it is comparatively dry, except during the
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spring and shortly after a heavy rain. Practically all the water running through the Cave now comes from a narrow crevice in the rear, which drains a small sinkhole in the surface. Through this opening, as already stated, much soil has been deposited in the back part of the Cave during the past fifty years. Nature has made practically no changes in the Cave itself since its discovery by white men, but the landscape has been affected84 by the removal of the large trees that once shaded its mouth. A decrepit85 sycamore, an ash or two, a few small maple86 trees, some scrub cedars, and some Virginia creeper constitute the only vegetation now growing around the opening.
The travelers who visited Cave-in-Rock in flatboat days gave the place more time and thought than did those who appeared after the introduction of steamboats. The New Orleans, or Orleans, which was the first steam-propelled boat to make a trip from Pittsburgh to New Orleans, passed it in 1811. Not until fully87 five years thereafter was the practicability of navigating88 the Ohio by steamboats satisfactorily demonstrated. Local tradition has it that the James Monroe, coming down in 1816, was the first steamboat to land at the Cave. Thomas Nuttall, who appeared on the scene two years later, was, as already stated, one of the last distinguished men who floated down the river in a flatboat and commented on the place. Leisure was an inseparable feature of flatboat travel. With the coming of steamboats the lingering of travelers along the river became a thing of the past. After 1820 comparatively few boats of any kind stopped at the Cave. Boats became more numerous, but whether propelled by steam or oars89, they traveled not only faster but through a country rapidly increasing in population,
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and passengers and crew stopping in this section found better shelter elsewhere. But Cave-in-Rock was ever pointed90 out as a place that “in days gone by” had been the den18 of flatboat robbers. Counterfeiters and other outlaws, however, operated in the neighborhood until as late as 1832.
The earliest record of a professional artist making a sketch of the Cave dates back to May, 1819, when Major Stephen H. Long came down the Ohio on the steamer Western Engineer, on his way to his Rocky Mountains exploring expedition. In his notes on “Cave-Inn-Rock or House of Nature” he gives a description of the Cave, and says that Samuel Seymour, the official artist of the expedition, “sketched two views of the entrance.” Edwin James’s account of this expedition contains many of Seymour’s pictures, but none of places east of the Mississippi. Efforts made in Washington to locate his original sketches91 were without success.
Edmund Flagg, a traveler, journalist, and poet, who lived the greater part of his life in Louisville and St. Louis, spent a short time at the Cave in 1836, while on a steamboat trip gathering92 material for his book, The Far West. He gives some of the history of the outlaws of “Cave-Inn-Rock” and then describes the Cave and the Island. He says the place furnishes “a scene of natural beauty worthy93 an Inman’s pencil” and that “if I mistake not an engraving94 of the spot has been published: a ferocious-looking personage, pistol in hand, crouched95 at the entrance, eagerly watching a descending96 boat.”
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1 cargo | |
n.(一只船或一架飞机运载的)货物 | |
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2 hull | |
n.船身;(果、实等的)外壳;vt.去(谷物等)壳 | |
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3 wilderness | |
n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等,荒漠 | |
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4 piracy | |
n.海盗行为,剽窃,著作权侵害 | |
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5 astronomer | |
n.天文学家 | |
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6 beheld | |
v.看,注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 );瞧;看呀;(叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现)哎哟 | |
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7 solitary | |
adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
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8 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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9 outlaw | |
n.歹徒,亡命之徒;vt.宣布…为不合法 | |
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10 outlaws | |
歹徒,亡命之徒( outlaw的名词复数 ); 逃犯 | |
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11 embarked | |
乘船( embark的过去式和过去分词 ); 装载; 从事 | |
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12 detailed | |
adj.详细的,详尽的,极注意细节的,完全的 | |
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13 Christian | |
adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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14 cavern | |
n.洞穴,大山洞 | |
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15 hermit | |
n.隐士,修道者;隐居 | |
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16 monks | |
n.修道士,僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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17 dwelling | |
n.住宅,住所,寓所 | |
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18 den | |
n.兽穴;秘密地方;安静的小房间,私室 | |
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19 affixed | |
adj.[医]附着的,附着的v.附加( affix的过去式和过去分词 );粘贴;加以;盖(印章) | |
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20 sufficiently | |
adv.足够地,充分地 | |
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21 formerly | |
adv.从前,以前 | |
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22 infested | |
adj.为患的,大批滋生的(常与with搭配)v.害虫、野兽大批出没于( infest的过去式和过去分词 );遍布于 | |
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23 caverns | |
大山洞,大洞穴( cavern的名词复数 ) | |
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24 ashore | |
adv.在(向)岸上,上岸 | |
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25 crevice | |
n.(岩石、墙等)裂缝;缺口 | |
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26 bluff | |
v.虚张声势,用假象骗人;n.虚张声势,欺骗 | |
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27 sketch | |
n.草图;梗概;素描;v.素描;概述 | |
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28 pertaining | |
与…有关系的,附属…的,为…固有的(to) | |
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29 choir | |
n.唱诗班,唱诗班的席位,合唱团,舞蹈团;v.合唱 | |
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30 projection | |
n.发射,计划,突出部分 | |
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31 excavated | |
v.挖掘( excavate的过去式和过去分词 );开凿;挖出;发掘 | |
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32 projections | |
预测( projection的名词复数 ); 投影; 投掷; 突起物 | |
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33 cedars | |
雪松,西洋杉( cedar的名词复数 ) | |
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34 impend | |
v.迫近,逼近,即将发生 | |
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35 shrubs | |
灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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36 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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37 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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38 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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39 perpendicular | |
adj.垂直的,直立的;n.垂直线,垂直的位置 | |
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40 distinguished | |
adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
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41 lashing | |
n.鞭打;痛斥;大量;许多v.鞭打( lash的现在分词 );煽动;紧系;怒斥 | |
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42 solitude | |
n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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43 penetrated | |
adj. 击穿的,鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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44 savage | |
adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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45 followers | |
追随者( follower的名词复数 ); 用户; 契据的附面; 从动件 | |
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46 prehistoric | |
adj.(有记载的)历史以前的,史前的,古老的 | |
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47 rendezvous | |
n.约会,约会地点,汇合点;vi.汇合,集合;vt.使汇合,使在汇合地点相遇 | |
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48 mound | |
n.土墩,堤,小山;v.筑堤,用土堆防卫 | |
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49 dwellers | |
n.居民,居住者( dweller的名词复数 ) | |
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50 rusty | |
adj.生锈的;锈色的;荒废了的 | |
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51 dagger | |
n.匕首,短剑,剑号 | |
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52 relics | |
[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
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53 implements | |
n.工具( implement的名词复数 );家具;手段;[法律]履行(契约等)v.实现( implement的第三人称单数 );执行;贯彻;使生效 | |
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54 unearthed | |
出土的(考古) | |
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55 squatting | |
v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的现在分词 );非法擅自占用(土地或房屋);为获得其所有权;而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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56 idol | |
n.偶像,红人,宠儿 | |
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57 mounds | |
土堆,土丘( mound的名词复数 ); 一大堆 | |
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58 plowed | |
v.耕( plow的过去式和过去分词 );犁耕;费力穿过 | |
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59 sepulcher | |
n.坟墓 | |
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60 plausible | |
adj.似真实的,似乎有理的,似乎可信的 | |
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61 pestilence | |
n.瘟疫 | |
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62 conjecture | |
n./v.推测,猜测 | |
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63 proximity | |
n.接近,邻近 | |
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64 ERECTED | |
adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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65 propitious | |
adj.吉利的;顺利的 | |
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66 posterity | |
n.后裔,子孙,后代 | |
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67 propitiatory | |
adj.劝解的;抚慰的;谋求好感的;哄人息怒的 | |
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68 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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69 prosaic | |
adj.单调的,无趣的 | |
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70 limestone | |
n.石灰石 | |
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71 crevices | |
n.(尤指岩石的)裂缝,缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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72 memoirs | |
n.回忆录;回忆录传( mem,自oir的名词复数) | |
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73 geologist | |
n.地质学家 | |
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74 excavation | |
n.挖掘,发掘;被挖掘之地 | |
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75 percolating | |
n.渗透v.滤( percolate的现在分词 );渗透;(思想等)渗透;渗入 | |
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76 eroding | |
侵蚀,腐蚀( erode的现在分词 ); 逐渐毁坏,削弱,损害 | |
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77 upheavals | |
突然的巨变( upheaval的名词复数 ); 大动荡; 大变动; 胀起 | |
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78 subterranean | |
adj.地下的,地表下的 | |
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79 outlet | |
n.出口/路;销路;批发商店;通风口;发泄 | |
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80 outlets | |
n.出口( outlet的名词复数 );经销店;插座;廉价经销店 | |
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81 virgin | |
n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
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82 retarded | |
a.智力迟钝的,智力发育迟缓的 | |
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83 seeped | |
v.(液体)渗( seep的过去式和过去分词 );渗透;渗出;漏出 | |
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84 affected | |
adj.不自然的,假装的 | |
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85 decrepit | |
adj.衰老的,破旧的 | |
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86 maple | |
n.槭树,枫树,槭木 | |
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87 fully | |
adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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88 navigating | |
v.给(船舶、飞机等)引航,导航( navigate的现在分词 );(从海上、空中等)横越;横渡;飞跃 | |
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89 oars | |
n.桨,橹( oar的名词复数 );划手v.划(行)( oar的第三人称单数 ) | |
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90 pointed | |
adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
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91 sketches | |
n.草图( sketch的名词复数 );素描;速写;梗概 | |
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92 gathering | |
n.集会,聚会,聚集 | |
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93 worthy | |
adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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94 engraving | |
n.版画;雕刻(作品);雕刻艺术;镌版术v.在(硬物)上雕刻(字,画等)( engrave的现在分词 );将某事物深深印在(记忆或头脑中) | |
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95 crouched | |
v.屈膝,蹲伏( crouch的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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96 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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