Toiling1 in immeasurable sand
And o’er a weary sultry land
Sown in a wrinkle of the monstrous2 hill
The city sparkles like a grain of salt.”
In the desert not twenty miles from Cairo there has sprung up the mushroom growth of a wonder-working Health Resort. It possesses several hotels, an “Establishment,” a golf links, and everything which a really desirable Health Resort must possess.[1] But at the time when I first knew that tract3 of sand on which it stands the case was far otherwise. If one must have summarized the attractions of the place they would have run:—
Fifteen pyramids
Distant
One palm-tree
Distant
Several ill-smelling streams
Quite close
Flat sandy desert
Near and distant
A perfectly4 bare range of low hills beginning half
a mile away and reaching to Arabia.
An English advertisement of foreign appearance bore witness to these charms and ended with a striking appeal to leave for desert air “the filthy5, stinking6 city,” as it characterized Grand Cairo.
We responded to the appeal, and went to stay in a hotel of large corridors and wide balconies which looked out upon the fifteen pyramids. Opposite was a small, bare house called Villa7 Mon Bijou. The town was planted on a desert so flat that it seemed a German toy town set upon a table; only there were no trees with curly green foliage8 to be seen, because no one might plant a living thing unless by order from Government.[2] Neat little pavements with new little gas lamps traversed it rectangularly, and came every way to an abrupt9 stop in heavy desert sand. There was a tiny English church, in which the few English Christians10 staying in the place assembled. Little flat-roofed villas11 like coloured cardboard boxes stood back from the pavement with strange ornaments12 above the gate; here a stone eagle with knees turned outwards13, there a stuffed fox. Backwards14 and forwards we went under noontide sun to the baths, and were told to rest in the Khedive’s sitting-room15, upholstered with yellow satin.
One would have thought that nothing so brand-new could have been found in sight of the pyramid of Unas and the cemetery16 of Sakkara. Even death seemed glaringly recent. One day we drove in the desert and searched the horizon for objects of interest. “What is that?” we said, pointing to a small building on the outskirts17 of the town. “That,” replied Saïd with pride, “is the new slaughter-house.” “And this enclosure?” “The English cemetery.” “And that yonder?” “The Italian mortuary.” “What is that which looks like a village on the hill?” “That is the Mahommedan burying-place.” “And that beyond?” “Another graveyard18.” Then he drove us through a valley of Hinnom, where we marked, among other things, a dead camel and a dead calf19; and as we passed between the windmill and the ill-smelling stream we saw three coffins20 lie, brand-new, unguarded and alone.
But towards evening a certain magic fell upon the place. We had gone one day towards the single palm-tree in the desert. Miles and miles of sand and air, unstirred by any slightest sound, seemed to lie between us and that solitary21 tree, and when we reached it nothing could be seen but the slot of beasts around it.
Then as we turned the light began to change. Behind the fifteen pyramids the sky glowed scarlet22 till it tinged23 the water of the Nile with blood. Far up in the blue hung an ethereal arc of crimson24 light; the heaven deepened to indigo25 where it met night; kindled26 into indescribable sapphire27 where it touched the dying day; the conflagration28 grew till at last earth glowed its answer to the sky with a purple flood rising and deluging29 sand-hills and valley.
As we neared the toy town with its twinkling lights the glow had died away, and there gloomed before us dimly a knoll30 round which knelt the camels of the Bedawîn; the figures which moved beside them with dark, fine profile and the white cloths round their heads seemed like Magi come to greet the Royal Child.
Again we went up the hills which, like a low rampart, bordered the plain to the east. At the foot they were carved into quarries31 of a stone so white that it seemed like wedges cut in a great cream cheese. The hills were barren, but for a few straggling plants and grasses about; like a raised map or the skeleton of the world. Yet as we went on we still found always in front, like the marks on the carriage drive, a curving, trodden road, winding32 up vanishing out of sight.
While we stood looking at the loneliness there came daintily stepping, with embroidered33 shoes and black silk mantles34 round them, a party of women to meet us; in front a man carried a child. I cannot but think that they vanished into thin air when they had passed us.
Or again one might descend35 towards the river, on the road between the fields. There as the sky lights its fires towards evening the men would leave their work and stand with dripping feet on their coarse outer garment by the water’s edge to say the evening prayer. Near the town stood a sycamore, under which, on a raised platform, some men prayed loud and lustily five times a day. “God likit them very much,” said the donkey-boy; but with cynical36 estimation of the importance of this fact he added, “If I bray37, where is my business?”
A brougham on the road as we returned: Europe is at one side. But within sat a woman golden haired, with her veil pushed back and a cigarette between her teeth. That one passing, demure38 and dignified39, with an attendant wrinkled and stately, is a Princess walking for her health. Here two in a victoria, with transparent40 veils and Paris bonnets41, show Turkish emancipation42; and the shut and blinded brougham with a Sudanese on the box gives sign of Arab propriety43.
And now as the town is reached we begin to see the meaning of this modern city; those high walls are not merely meant to hide a garden of flowers, nor does the lattice serve only to keep the sunlight from fading Eastern fabrics44. But behind the pierced work of that window peers some Scheherazade at her story-weaving, wondering what life means, “half sick of shadows.” There is the Pasha’s house, and the whisper goes that these are slaves.
A strange, pathetic figure trod this road daily, a man of aquiline45 face, brown skin, and pointed46 beard, dressed in a fine embroidered garment of scarlet with white cloth falling on his shoulders.
Evening by evening he left the town, and squatting47 by one of the sulphur streams looked out with level eyes towards the farthest horizon of the south, his beads48 held idly in his hands. That man, we learned, was the Pasha’s gatekeeper and came from the Sudan.
One day a crowd ran and digged by the side of this stream. “What are they doing?” we asked, and the answer was that they were making a garden. It will surely blossom like the rose—but not on those flowers will the gatekeeper gaze.
In the evening when the moon has risen, and a great star close to her tip hangs the banner of the Moslems in heaven, the magic is most potent49. Then the flat-roofed houses become palaces of marble, and among the dark figures stealing through the street you look for Mesrour on his secret errands, that he may show you the mysteries of life and death behind veil and wall and lattice. Then one may well believe that over at Sakkara under the sand-hills the dead are sitting in their carven chambers50, to play their games and cast their spells and eat and drink.
And yet in Europe they talk of freeing Egypt, and speak of the “patriot” dervish; and at Gordon’s death-place, where the gatekeeper was born and from which he was stolen, they entertain the Pasha with the honours of a burgess.
Who wakes? who dreams? Surely the Western eye sees clear, which looks on the place in the searching noonday light; for it is the hand of the Western that planted Villa Mon Bijou and raised the gas lamps.
Leave it then with its neat realities and its fancied magic; draw away over the sand towards the Great River and the dwellings51 of the dead; and as one might see across the great ocean a line of reef built up by tiny busy insects, so look back once to see over “immeasurable sand,” “the city sparkle like a grain of salt.”
点击收听单词发音
1 toiling | |
长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的现在分词 ); 艰难缓慢地移动,跋涉 | |
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2 monstrous | |
adj.巨大的;恐怖的;可耻的,丢脸的 | |
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3 tract | |
n.传单,小册子,大片(土地或森林) | |
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4 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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5 filthy | |
adj.卑劣的;恶劣的,肮脏的 | |
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6 stinking | |
adj.臭的,烂醉的,讨厌的v.散发出恶臭( stink的现在分词 );发臭味;名声臭;糟透 | |
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7 villa | |
n.别墅,城郊小屋 | |
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8 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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9 abrupt | |
adj.突然的,意外的;唐突的,鲁莽的 | |
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10 Christians | |
n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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11 villas | |
别墅,公馆( villa的名词复数 ); (城郊)住宅 | |
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12 ornaments | |
n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 );点缀;装饰品;首饰v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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13 outwards | |
adj.外面的,公开的,向外的;adv.向外;n.外形 | |
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14 backwards | |
adv.往回地,向原处,倒,相反,前后倒置地 | |
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15 sitting-room | |
n.(BrE)客厅,起居室 | |
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16 cemetery | |
n.坟墓,墓地,坟场 | |
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17 outskirts | |
n.郊外,郊区 | |
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18 graveyard | |
n.坟场 | |
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19 calf | |
n.小牛,犊,幼仔,小牛皮 | |
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20 coffins | |
n.棺材( coffin的名词复数 );使某人早亡[死,完蛋,垮台等]之物 | |
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21 solitary | |
adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
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22 scarlet | |
n.深红色,绯红色,红衣;adj.绯红色的 | |
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23 tinged | |
v.(使)发丁丁声( ting的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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24 crimson | |
n./adj.深(绯)红色(的);vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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25 indigo | |
n.靛青,靛蓝 | |
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26 kindled | |
(使某物)燃烧,着火( kindle的过去式和过去分词 ); 激起(感情等); 发亮,放光 | |
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27 sapphire | |
n.青玉,蓝宝石;adj.天蓝色的 | |
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28 conflagration | |
n.建筑物或森林大火 | |
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29 deluging | |
v.使淹没( deluge的现在分词 );淹没;被洪水般涌来的事物所淹没;穷于应付 | |
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30 knoll | |
n.小山,小丘 | |
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31 quarries | |
n.(采)石场( quarry的名词复数 );猎物(指鸟,兽等);方形石;(格窗等的)方形玻璃v.从采石场采得( quarry的第三人称单数 );从(书本等中)努力发掘(资料等);在采石场采石 | |
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32 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
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33 embroidered | |
adj.绣花的 | |
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34 mantles | |
vt.&vi.覆盖(mantle的第三人称单数形式) | |
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35 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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36 cynical | |
adj.(对人性或动机)怀疑的,不信世道向善的 | |
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37 bray | |
n.驴叫声, 喇叭声;v.驴叫 | |
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38 demure | |
adj.严肃的;端庄的 | |
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39 dignified | |
a.可敬的,高贵的 | |
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40 transparent | |
adj.明显的,无疑的;透明的 | |
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41 bonnets | |
n.童帽( bonnet的名词复数 );(烟囱等的)覆盖物;(苏格兰男子的)无边呢帽;(女子戴的)任何一种帽子 | |
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42 emancipation | |
n.(从束缚、支配下)解放 | |
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43 propriety | |
n.正当行为;正当;适当 | |
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44 fabrics | |
织物( fabric的名词复数 ); 布; 构造; (建筑物的)结构(如墙、地面、屋顶):质地 | |
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45 aquiline | |
adj.钩状的,鹰的 | |
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46 pointed | |
adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
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47 squatting | |
v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的现在分词 );非法擅自占用(土地或房屋);为获得其所有权;而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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48 beads | |
n.(空心)小珠子( bead的名词复数 );水珠;珠子项链 | |
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49 potent | |
adj.强有力的,有权势的;有效力的 | |
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50 chambers | |
n.房间( chamber的名词复数 );(议会的)议院;卧室;会议厅 | |
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51 dwellings | |
n.住处,处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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