All the luggage I had in my cart consisted of one small portmanteau half filled with travelling-notes on Georgia; of these the greater part has been lost, fortunately for you; but the portmanteau itself and the rest of its contents have remained intact, fortunately for me.
As I entered the Koishaur Valley the sun was disappearing behind the snow-clad ridge1 of the mountains. In order to accomplish the ascent2 of Mount Koishaur by nightfall, my driver, an Ossete, urged on the horses indefatigably3, singing zealously4 the while at the top of his voice.
What a glorious place that valley is! On every hand are inaccessible6 mountains, steep, yellow slopes scored by water-channels, and reddish rocks draped with green ivy7 and crowned with clusters of plane-trees. Yonder, at an immense height, is the golden fringe of the snow. Down below rolls the River Aragva, which, after bursting noisily forth8 from the dark and misty9 depths of the gorge10, with an unnamed stream clasped in its embrace, stretches out like a thread of silver, its waters glistening11 like a snake with flashing scales.
Arrived at the foot of Mount Koishaur, we stopped at a dukhan. 1 About a score of Georgians and mountaineers were gathered there in a noisy crowd, and, close by, a caravan12 of camels had halted for the night. I was obliged to hire oxen to drag my cart up that accursed mountain, as it was now autumn and the roads were slippery with ice. Besides, the mountain is about two versts 2 in length.
There was no help for it, so I hired six oxen and a few Ossetes. One of the latter shouldered my portmanteau, and the rest, shouting almost with one voice, proceeded to help the oxen.
Following mine there came another cart, which I was surprised to see four oxen pulling with the greatest ease, notwithstanding that it was loaded to the top. Behind it walked the owner, smoking a little, silver-mounted Kabardian pipe. He was wearing a shaggy Circassian cap and an officer’s overcoat without epaulettes, and he seemed to be about fifty years of age. The swarthiness of his complexion14 showed that his face had long been acquainted with Transcaucasian suns, and the premature15 greyness of his moustache was out of keeping with his firm gait and robust16 appearance. I went up to him and saluted17. He silently returned my greeting and emitted an immense cloud of smoke.
“We are fellow-travellers, it appears.”
Again he bowed silently.
“I suppose you are going to Stavropol?”
“Yes, sir, exactly—with Government things.”
“Can you tell me how it is that that heavily-laden cart of yours is being drawn18 without any difficulty by four oxen, whilst six cattle are scarcely able to move mine, empty though it is, and with all those Ossetes helping19?”
He smiled slyly and threw me a meaning glance.
“You have not been in the Caucasus long, I should say?”
“About a year,” I answered.
He smiled a second time.
“Well?”
“Just so, sir,” he answered. “They’re terrible beasts, these Asiatics! You think that all that shouting means that they are helping the oxen? Why, the devil alone can make out what it is they do shout. The oxen understand, though; and if you were to yoke20 as many as twenty they still wouldn’t budge21 so long as the Ossetes shouted in that way of theirs.... Awful scoundrels! But what can you make of them? They love extorting22 money from people who happen to be travelling through here. The rogues23 have been spoiled! You wait and see: they will get a tip out of you as well as their hire. I know them of old, they can’t get round me!”
“You have been serving here a long time?”
“Yes, I was here under Aleksei Petrovich,” 3 he answered, assuming an air of dignity. “I was a sub-lieutenant when he came to the Line; and I was promoted twice, during his command, on account of actions against the mountaineers.”
“And now—?”
“Now I’m in the third battalion24 of the Line. And you yourself?”
I told him.
With this the conversation ended, and we continued to walk in silence, side by side. On the summit of the mountain we found snow. The sun set, and—as usually is the case in the south—night followed upon the day without any interval25 of twilight26. Thanks, however, to the sheen of the snow, we were able easily to distinguish the road, which still went up the mountain-side, though not so steeply as before. I ordered the Ossetes to put my portmanteau into the cart, and to replace the oxen by horses. Then for the last time I gazed down upon the valley; but the thick mist which had gushed27 in billows from the gorges28 veiled it completely, and not a single sound now floated up to our ears from below. The Ossetes surrounded me clamorously and demanded tips; but the staff-captain shouted so menacingly at them that they dispersed29 in a moment.
“What a people they are!” he said. “They don’t even know the Russian for ‘bread,’ but they have mastered the phrase ‘Officer, give us a tip!’ In my opinion, the very Tartars are better, they are no drunkards, anyhow.”...
We were now within a verst or so of the Station. Around us all was still, so still, indeed, that it was possible to follow the flight of a gnat30 by the buzzing of its wings. On our left loomed31 the gorge, deep and black. Behind it and in front of us rose the dark-blue summits of the mountains, all trenched with furrows32 and covered with layers of snow, and standing13 out against the pale horizon, which still retained the last reflections of the evening glow. The stars twinkled out in the dark sky, and in some strange way it seemed to me that they were much higher than in our own north country. On both sides of the road bare, black rocks jutted33 out; here and there shrubs34 peeped forth from under the snow; but not a single withered35 leaf stirred, and amid that dead sleep of nature it was cheering to hear the snorting of the three tired post-horses and the irregular tinkling36 of the Russian bell. 4
“We will have glorious weather to-morrow,” I said.
The staff-captain answered not a word, but pointed37 with his finger to a lofty mountain which rose directly opposite us.
“What is it?” I asked.
“Mount Gut38.”
“Well, what then?”
“Don’t you see how it is smoking?”
True enough, smoke was rising from Mount Gut. Over its sides gentle cloud-currents were creeping, and on the summit rested one cloud of such dense39 blackness that it appeared like a blot40 upon the dark sky.
By this time we were able to make out the Post Station and the roofs of the huts surrounding it; the welcoming lights were twinkling before us, when suddenly a damp and chilly41 wind arose, the gorge rumbled42, and a drizzling43 rain fell. I had scarcely time to throw my felt cloak round me when down came the snow. I looked at the staff-captain with profound respect.
“We shall have to pass the night here,” he said, vexation in his tone. “There’s no crossing the mountains in such a blizzard44.—I say, have there been any avalanches45 on Mount Krestov?” he inquired of the driver.
“No, sir,” the Ossete answered; “but there are a great many threatening to fall—a great many.”
Owing to the lack of a travellers’ room in the Station, we were assigned a night’s lodging46 in a smoky hut. I invited my fellow-traveller to drink a tumbler of tea with me, as I had brought my cast-iron teapot—my only solace47 during my travels in the Caucasus.
One side of the hut was stuck against the cliff, and three wet and slippery steps led up to the door. I groped my way in and stumbled up against a cow (with these people the cow-house supplies the place of a servant’s room). I did not know which way to turn—sheep were bleating48 on the one hand and a dog growling49 on the other. Fortunately, however, I perceived on one side a faint glimmer50 of light, and by its aid I was able to find another opening by way of a door. And here a by no means uninteresting picture was revealed. The wide hut, the roof of which rested on two smoke-grimed pillars, was full of people. In the centre of the floor a small fire was crackling, and the smoke, driven back by the wind from an opening in the roof, was spreading around in so thick a shroud51 that for a long time I was unable to see about me. Seated by the fire were two old women, a number of children and a lank52 Georgian—all of them in tatters. There was no help for it! We took refuge by the fire and lighted our pipes; and soon the teapot was singing invitingly53.
“Wretched people, these!” I said to the staff-captain, indicating our dirty hosts, who were silently gazing at us in a kind of torpor54.
“And an utterly55 stupid people too!” he replied. “Would you believe it, they are absolutely ignorant and incapable56 of the slightest civilisation57! Why even our Kabardians or Chechenes, robbers and ragamuffins though they be, are regular dare-devils for all that. Whereas these others have no liking58 for arms, and you’ll never see a decent dagger59 on one of them! Ossetes all over!”
“You have been a long time in the Chechenes’ country?”
“Yes, I was quartered there for about ten years along with my company in a fortress60, near Kamennyi Brod. 5 Do you know the place?”
“I have heard the name.”
“I can tell you, my boy, we had quite enough of those dare-devil Chechenes. At the present time, thank goodness, things are quieter; but in the old days you had only to put a hundred paces between you and the rampart and wherever you went you would be sure to find a shaggy devil lurking61 in wait for you. You had just to let your thoughts wander and at any moment a lasso would be round your neck or a bullet in the back of your head! Brave fellows, though!”...
“You used to have many an adventure, I dare say?” I said, spurred by curiosity.
“Of course! Many a one.”...
Hereupon he began to tug62 at his left moustache, let his head sink on to his breast, and became lost in thought. I had a very great mind to extract some little anecdote63 out of him—a desire natural to all who travel and make notes.
Meanwhile, tea was ready. I took two travelling-tumblers out of my portmanteau, and, filling one of them, set it before the staff-captain. He sipped64 his tea and said, as if speaking to himself, “Yes, many a one!” This exclamation65 gave me great hopes. Your old Caucasian officer loves, I know, to talk and yarn66 a bit; he so rarely succeeds in getting a chance to do so. It may be his fate to be quartered five years or so with his company in some out-of-the-way place, and during the whole of that time he will not hear “good morning” from a soul (because the sergeant67 says “good health”). And, indeed, he would have good cause to wax loquacious—with a wild and interesting people all around him, danger to be faced every day, and many a marvellous incident happening. It is in circumstances like this that we involuntarily complain that so few of our countrymen take notes.
“Would you care to put some rum in your tea?” I said to my companion. “I have some white rum with me—from Tiflis; and the weather is cold now.”
“No, thank you, sir; I don’t drink.”
“Really?”
“Just so. I have sworn off drinking. Once, you know, when I was a sub-lieutenant, some of us had a drop too much. That very night there was an alarm, and out we went to the front, half seas over! We did catch it, I can tell you, when Aleksei Petrovich came to hear about us! Heaven save us, what a rage he was in! He was within an ace5 of having us court-martialled. That’s just how things happen! You might easily spend a whole year without seeing a soul; but just go and have a drop and you’re a lost man!”
On hearing this I almost lost hope.
“Take the Circassians, now,” he continued; “once let them drink their fill of buza 6 at a wedding or a funeral, and out will come their knives. On one occasion I had some difficulty in getting away with a whole skin, and yet it was at the house of a ‘friendly’ 7 prince, where I was a guest, that the affair happened.”
“How was that?” I asked.
“Here, I’ll tell you.”...
He filled his pipe, drew in the smoke, and began his story.
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1
ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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indefatigably
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| adv.不厌倦地，不屈不挠地 | |
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4
zealously
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| adv.热心地；热情地；积极地；狂热地 | |
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ace
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| n.A牌；发球得分；佼佼者；adj.杰出的 | |
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6
inaccessible
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| adj.达不到的，难接近的 | |
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7
ivy
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| n.常青藤，常春藤 | |
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8
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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9
misty
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| adj.雾蒙蒙的，有雾的 | |
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10
gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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11
glistening
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| adj.闪耀的，反光的v.湿物闪耀，闪亮( glisten的现在分词 ) | |
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12
caravan
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| n.大蓬车；活动房屋 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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14
complexion
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| n.肤色；情况，局面；气质，性格 | |
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15
premature
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| adj.比预期时间早的；不成熟的，仓促的 | |
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16
robust
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| adj.强壮的，强健的，粗野的，需要体力的，浓的 | |
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17
saluted
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| v.欢迎，致敬( salute的过去式和过去分词 )；赞扬，赞颂 | |
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18
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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helping
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| n.食物的一份&adj.帮助人的，辅助的 | |
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yoke
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| n.轭；支配；v.给...上轭，连接，使成配偶 | |
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21
budge
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| v.移动一点儿；改变立场 | |
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22
extorting
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| v.敲诈( extort的现在分词 )；曲解 | |
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23
rogues
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| n.流氓( rogue的名词复数 )；无赖；调皮捣蛋的人；离群的野兽 | |
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24
battalion
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| n.营；部队；大队(的人) | |
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25
interval
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| n.间隔，间距；幕间休息，中场休息 | |
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26
twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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27
gushed
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| v.喷，涌( gush的过去式和过去分词 )；滔滔不绝地说话 | |
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gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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29
dispersed
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| adj. 被驱散的, 被分散的, 散布的 | |
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gnat
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| v.对小事斤斤计较，琐事 | |
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31
loomed
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| v.隐约出现，阴森地逼近( loom的过去式和过去分词 )；隐约出现，阴森地逼近 | |
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32
furrows
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| n.犁沟( furrow的名词复数 )；（脸上的）皱纹v.犁田，开沟( furrow的第三人称单数 ) | |
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33
jutted
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| v.（使）突出( jut的过去式和过去分词 )；伸出；（从…）突出；高出 | |
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34
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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35
withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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36
tinkling
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| n.丁当作响声 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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38
gut
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| n.[pl.]胆量；内脏；adj.本能的；vt.取出内脏 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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40
blot
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| vt.弄脏（用吸墨纸）吸干；n.污点，污渍 | |
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41
chilly
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| adj.凉快的，寒冷的 | |
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42
rumbled
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| 发出隆隆声，发出辘辘声( rumble的过去式和过去分词 )； 轰鸣着缓慢行进； 发现…的真相； 看穿（阴谋） | |
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43
drizzling
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| 下蒙蒙细雨，下毛毛雨( drizzle的现在分词 ) | |
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44
blizzard
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| n.暴风雪 | |
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45
avalanches
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| n.雪崩( avalanche的名词复数 ) | |
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46
lodging
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| n.寄宿，住所；(大学生的)校外宿舍 | |
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47
solace
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| n.安慰；v.使快乐；vt.安慰(物)，缓和 | |
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48
bleating
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| v.（羊，小牛）叫( bleat的现在分词 )；哭诉；发出羊叫似的声音；轻声诉说 | |
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49
growling
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| n.吠声, 咆哮声 v.怒吠, 咆哮, 吼 | |
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50
glimmer
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| v.发出闪烁的微光；n.微光，微弱的闪光 | |
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51
shroud
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| n.裹尸布，寿衣；罩，幕；vt.覆盖，隐藏 | |
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52
lank
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| adj.瘦削的；稀疏的 | |
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53
invitingly
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| adv. 动人地 | |
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54
torpor
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| n.迟钝；麻木；（动物的）冬眠 | |
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55
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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56
incapable
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| adj.无能力的，不能做某事的 | |
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57
civilisation
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| n.文明，文化，开化，教化 | |
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58
liking
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| n.爱好；嗜好；喜欢 | |
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59
dagger
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| n.匕首，短剑，剑号 | |
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fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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61
lurking
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| 潜在 | |
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62
tug
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| v.用力拖(或拉)；苦干；n.拖；苦干；拖船 | |
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63
anecdote
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| n.轶事，趣闻，短故事 | |
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64
sipped
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| v.小口喝，呷，抿( sip的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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65
exclamation
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| n.感叹号，惊呼，惊叹词 | |
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66
yarn
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| n.纱，纱线，纺线；奇闻漫谈，旅行轶事 | |
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sergeant
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| n.警官，中士 | |
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