They were in orderly and perfect lines, stirring or swaying slightly: sometimes they bent2 their heads, sometimes two leaned together, but for the most part they were motionless. It was the time when the fashion is just changing and some were newly all in shining yellow, while others still wore green.
I went up the steps amongst them, the only human thing, for men and women worship no more in Arras Cathedral, and the trees have come instead; little humble3 things, all less than four years old, in great numbers thronging4 the steps processionally, and growing in perfect rows just where step meets step. They have come to Arras with the wind and the rain; which enter the aisles6 together whenever they will, and go wherever man went; they have such a reverent7 air, the young limes on the three flights of steps, that you would say they did not know that Arras Cathedral was fallen on evil days, that they did not know they looked on ruin and vast disaster, but thought that these great walls open to stars and sun were the natural and fitting place for the worship of little weeds.
Behind them the shattered houses of Arras seemed to cluster about the cathedral as, one might fancy easily, hurt and frightened children, so wistful are their gaping8 windows and old, grey empty gables, so melancholy9 and puzzled. They are more like a little old people come upon trouble, gazing at their great elder companion and not knowing what to do.
But the facts of Arras are sadder than a poet's most tragic10 fancies. In the western front of Arras Cathedral stand eight pillars rising from the ground; above them stood four more. Of the four upper pillars the two on the left are gone, swept away by shells from the north: and a shell has passed through the neck of one of the two that is left, just as a bullet might go through a daffodil's stem.
The left-hand corner of that western wall has been caught from the north, by some tremendous shell which has torn the whole corner down in a mound11 of stone: and still the walls have stood.
I went in through the western doorway12. All along the nave13 lay a long heap of white stones, with grass and weeds on the top, and a little trodden path over the grass and weeds. This is all that remained of the roof of Arras Cathedral and of any chairs or pews there may have been in the nave, or anything that may have hung above them. It was all down but one slender arch that crossed the nave just at the transept; it stood out against the sky, and all who saw it wondered how it stood.
In the southern aisle5 panes14 of green glass, in twisted frame of lead, here and there lingered, like lonely leaves on an apple-tree-after a hailstorm in spring. The aisles still had their roofs over them which those stout15 old walls held up in spite of all.
Where the nave joins the transept the ruin is most enormous. Perhaps there was more to bring down there, so the Germans brought it down: there may have been a tower there, for all I know, or a spire16.
I stood on the heap and looked towards the altar. To my left all was ruin. To my right two old saints in stone stood by the southern door. The door had been forced open long ago, and stood as it was opened, partly broken. A great round hole gaped17 in the ground outside; it was this that had opened the door.
Just beyond the big heap, on the left of the chancel, stood something made of wood, which almost certainly had been the organ.
As I looked at these things there passed through the desolate18 sanctuaries19, and down an aisle past pillars pitted with shrapnel, a sad old woman, sad even for a woman of North-East France. She seemed to be looking after the mounds20 and stones that had once been the cathedral; perhaps she had once been the Bishop's servant, or the wife of one of the vergers; she only remained of all who had been there in other days, she and the pigeons and jackdaws. I spoke21 to her. All Arras, she said, was ruined. The great cathedral was ruined, her own family were ruined utterly22, and she pointed23 to where the sad houses gazed from forlorn dead windows. Absolute ruin, she said; but there must be no armistice24. No armistice. No. It was necessary that there should be no armistice at all. No armistice with Germans.
A French interpreter, with the Sphinxes' heads on his collar, showed me a picture postcard with a photograph of the chancel as it was five years ago. It was the very chancel before which I was standing. To see that photograph astonished me, and to know that the camera that took it must have stood where I was standing, only a little lower down, under the great heap. Though one knew there had been an altar there, and candles and roof and carpet, and all the solemnity of a cathedral's interior, yet to see that photograph and to stand on that weedy heap, in the wind, under the jackdaws, was a contrast with which the mind fumbled26.
I walked a little with the French interpreter. We came to a little shrine27 in the southern aisle. It had been all paved with marble, and the marble was broken into hundreds of pieces, and someone had carefully picked up all the bits, and laid them together on the altar.
And this pathetic heap that was gathered of broken bits had drawn28 many to stop and gaze at it; and idly, as soldiers will, they had written their names on them: every bit had a name on it, with but a touch of irony29 the Frenchman said, "All that is necessary to bring your name to posterity30 is to write it on one of these stones.", "No," I said, "I will do it by describing all this." And we both laughed.
I have not done it yet: there is more to say of Arras. As I begin the tale of ruin and wrong, the man who did it totters31. His gaudy32 power begins to stream away like the leaves of autumn. Soon his throne will be bare, and I shall have but begun to say what I have to say of calamity33 in cathedral and little gardens of Arras.
The winter of the Hohenzollerns will come; sceptre, uniforms, stars and courtiers all gone; still the world will not know half of the bitter wrongs of Arras. And spring will bring a new time and cover the trenches34 with green, and the pigeons will preen35 themselves on the shattered towers, and the lime-trees along the steps will grow taller and brighter, and happier men will sing in the streets untroubled by any War Lord; by then, perhaps, I may have told, to such as care to read, what such a war did in an ancient town, already romantic when romance was young, when war came suddenly without mercy, without pity, out of the north and east, on little houses, carved galleries, and gardens; churches, cathedrals and the jackdaws' nests.
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1
standing
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n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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2
bent
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n.爱好,癖好;adj.弯的;决心的,一心的 | |
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3
humble
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adj.谦卑的,恭顺的;地位低下的;v.降低,贬低 | |
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4
thronging
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v.成群,挤满( throng的现在分词 ) | |
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5
aisle
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n.(教堂、教室、戏院等里的)过道,通道 | |
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6
aisles
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n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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7
reverent
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adj.恭敬的,虔诚的 | |
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8
gaping
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adj.口的;张口的;敞口的;多洞穴的v.目瞪口呆地凝视( gape的现在分词 );张开,张大 | |
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9
melancholy
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n.忧郁,愁思;adj.令人感伤(沮丧)的,忧郁的 | |
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10
tragic
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adj.悲剧的,悲剧性的,悲惨的 | |
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11
mound
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n.土墩,堤,小山;v.筑堤,用土堆防卫 | |
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12
doorway
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n.门口,(喻)入门;门路,途径 | |
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13
nave
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n.教堂的中部;本堂 | |
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14
panes
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窗玻璃( pane的名词复数 ) | |
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16
spire
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n.(教堂)尖顶,尖塔,高点 | |
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17
gaped
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v.目瞪口呆地凝视( gape的过去式和过去分词 );张开,张大 | |
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18
desolate
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adj.荒凉的,荒芜的;孤独的,凄凉的;v.使荒芜,使孤寂 | |
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19
sanctuaries
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n.避难所( sanctuary的名词复数 );庇护;圣所;庇护所 | |
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20
mounds
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土堆,土丘( mound的名词复数 ); 一大堆 | |
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21
spoke
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n.(车轮的)辐条;轮辐;破坏某人的计划;阻挠某人的行动 v.讲,谈(speak的过去式);说;演说;从某种观点来说 | |
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22
utterly
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adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
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23
pointed
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adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
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24
armistice
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n.休战,停战协定 | |
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25
resolute
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adj.坚决的,果敢的 | |
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26
fumbled
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(笨拙地)摸索或处理(某事物)( fumble的过去式和过去分词 ); 乱摸,笨拙地弄; 使落下 | |
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27
shrine
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n.圣地,神龛,庙;v.将...置于神龛内,把...奉为神圣 | |
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28
drawn
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v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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29
irony
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n.反语,冷嘲;具有讽刺意味的事,嘲弄 | |
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30
posterity
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n.后裔,子孙,后代 | |
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31
totters
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v.走得或动得不稳( totter的第三人称单数 );踉跄;蹒跚;摇摇欲坠 | |
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32
gaudy
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adj.华而不实的;俗丽的 | |
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33
calamity
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n.灾害,祸患,不幸事件 | |
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34
trenches
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深沟,地沟( trench的名词复数 ); 战壕 | |
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35
preen
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v.(人)打扮修饰 | |
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