All the rest of the day I paddled under the frowning cliffs of the hill ranges. Bold, bare, scarred, seamed with fissures1, their precipice2 rocks gave the impression of ten thousand feet rather that only so many hundreds. Late in the afternoon we landed against a formation of basaltic blocks cut as squarely up and down as a dock, and dropping off into as deep water. The waves _chug-chug-chugged_ sullenly3 against them, and the fringe of a dark pine forest, drawn4 back from a breadth of natural grass, lowered across the horizon like a thunder-cloud.
Deuce and I made camp with the uneasy feeling of being under inimical inspection5. A cold wind ruffled6 lead-like waters. No comfort was in the prospect7, so we retired8 early. Then it appeared that the coarse grass of the park had bred innumerable black flies, and that we had our work cut out for us.
The question of flies--using that, to a woodsman, eminently9 connotive word in its wide embracement of mosquitoes, sandflies, deer-flies, black flies, and midges--is one much mooted10 in the craft. On no subject are more widely divergent ideas expressed. One writer claims that black flies' bites are but the temporary inconvenience of a pin-prick; another tells of boils lasting11 a week as the invariable result of their attentions; a third sweeps aside the whole question as unimportant to concentrate his anathemas12 on the musical mosquito; still a fourth descants13 on the maddening midge, and is prepared to defend his claims against the world. A like dogmatic partisanship14 obtains in the question of defences. Each and every man possessed15 of a tongue wherewith to speak or a pen wherewith to write, heralds16 the particular merits of his own fly-dope, head-net, or mosquito-proof tent-lining. Eager advocates of the advantages of pork fat, kerosene17, pine tar18, pennyroyal, oil of cloves19, castor oil, lollacapop, or a half hundred other concoctions20, will assure you, tears in eyes, that his is the only true faith. So many men, so many minds, until the theorist is confused into doing the most uncomfortable thing possible--that is, to learn by experience.
As for the truth, it is at once in all of them and in none of them. The annoyance21 of after-effects from a sting depends entirely22 on the individual's physical makeup23. Some people are so poisoned by mosquito bites that three or four on the forehead suffice to close entirely the victim's eyes. On others they leave but a small red mark without swelling24. Black flies caused festering sores on one man I accompanied to the woods. In my own case they leave only a tiny blood-spot the size of a pin-head, which bothers me not a bit. Midges nearly drove crazy the same companion of mine, so that finally he jumped into the river, clothes and all, to get rid of them. Again, merely my own experience would lead me to regard them as a tremendous nuisance, but one quite bearable. Indians are less susceptible25 than whites; nevertheless I have seen them badly swelled26 behind the ears from the bites of the big hardwood mosquito.
You can make up your mind to one thing: from the first warm weather until August you must expect to cope with insect pests. The black fly will keep you busy until late afternoon; the midges will swarm27 you about sunset; and the mosquito will preserve the tradition after you have turned in. As for the deer-fly, and others of his piratical breed, he will bite like a dog at any time.
To me the most annoying species is the mosquito. The black fly is sometimes most industrious--I have seen trout28 fishermen come into camp with the blood literally29 streaming from their faces--but his great recommendation is that he holds still to be killed. No frantic30 slaps, no waving of arms, no muffled31 curses. You just place your finger calmly and firmly on the spot. You get him every time. In this is great, heart-lifting joy. It may be unholy joy, perhaps even vengeful, but it leaves the spirit ecstatic. The satisfaction of _murdering_ the beast that has had the nerve to light on you just as you are reeling in almost counterbalances the pain of a sting. The midge, again, or punkie, or "no-see-'um," just as you please, swarms32 down upon you suddenly and with commendable33 vigour34, so that you feel as though red-hot pepper were being sprinkled on your bare skin; and his invisibility and intangibility are such that you can never tell whether you have killed him or not; but he doesn't last long, and dope routs35 him totally. Your mosquito, however, is such a deliberate brute36. He has in him some of that divine fire which causes a dog to turn around nine times before lying down.
Whether he is selecting or gloating I do not know, but I do maintain that the price of your life's blood is often not too great to pay for the cessation of that hum.
"Eet is not hees bite," said Billy the half-breed to me once--"eet is hees sing."
I agree with Billy. One mosquito in a tent can keep you awake for hours.
As to protection, it is varied37 enough in all conscience, and always theoretically perfect. A head-net falling well down over your chest, or even tied under your arm-pits, is at once the simplest and most fallacious of these theories. It will keep vast numbers of flies out, to be sure. It will also keep the few adventurous38 discoverers in, where you can neither kill nor eject. Likewise you are deprived of your pipe; and the common homely40 comfort of spitting on your bait is totally denied you. The landscape takes on the prismatic colours of refraction, so that, while you can easily make out red, white, and blue Chinese dragons and mythological41 monsters, you are unable to discover the more welcome succulence, say, of a partridge on a limb. And the end of that head-net is to be picked to holes by the brush, and finally to be snatched from you to sapling height, whence your pains will rescue it only in a useless condition. Probably then you will dance the war-dance of exasperation42 on its dismembered remains43. Still, there are times--in case of straight-away river paddling, or open walking, or lengthened44 waiting--when the net is a great comfort. And it is easily included in the pack.
Next in order come the various "dopes." And they are various. From the stickiest, blackest pastes to the silkiest, suavest45 oils they range, through the grades of essence, salve, and cream. Every man has his own recipe--the infallible. As a general rule, it may be stated that the thicker kinds last longer and are generally more thoroughly46 effective, but the lighter47 are pleasanter to wear, though requiring more frequent application. At a pinch, ordinary pork fat is good. The Indians often make temporary use of the broad caribou48 leaf, crushing it between their palms and rubbing the juices on the skin. I know by experience that this is effective, but very transitory. It is, however, a good thing to use when resting on the trail, for, by the grace of Providence49, flies are rarely bothersome as long as you are moving at a fair gait.
This does not always hold good, however, any more than the best fly-dope is always effective. I remember most vividly50 the first day of a return journey from the shores of the Hudson Bay. The weather was rather oppressively close and overcast51.
We had paddled a few miles up river from the fur trading-post, and then had landed in order to lighten the canoe for the ascent52 against the current. At that point the forest has already begun to dwindle53 towards the Land of Little Sticks, so that often miles and miles of open muskegs will intervene between groups of the stunted54 trees. Jim and I found ourselves a little over waist deep in luxuriant and tangled55 grasses that impeded56 and clogged57 our every footstep. Never shall I forget that country--its sad and lonely isolation58, its dull lead sky, its silence, and the closeness of its stifling59 atmosphere--and never shall I see it otherwise than as in a dense60 brown haze61, a haze composed of swarming62 millions of mosquitoes. There is not the slightest exaggeration in the statement. At every step new multitudes rushed into our faces to join the old. At times Jim's back was so covered with them that they almost overlaid the colour of the cloth. And as near as we could see, every square foot of the thousands of acres quartered its hordes63.
We doped liberally, but without the slightest apparent effect. Probably two million squeamish mosquitoes were driven away by the disgust of our medicaments, but what good did that do us when eight million others were not so particular? At the last we hung bandanas under our hats, cut fans of leaves, and stumbled on through a most miserable64 day until we could build a smudge at evening.
For smoke is usually a specific. Not always, however: some midges seem to delight in it. The Indians make a tiny blaze of birch bark and pine twigs65 deep in a nest of grass and caribou leaves. When the flame is well started, they twist the growing vegetation canopy-wise above it.
In that manner they gain a few minutes of dense, acrid66 smoke, which is enough for an Indian. A white man, however, needs something more elaborate.
The chief reason for your initial failure in making an effective smudge will be that you will not get your fire well started before piling on the damp smoke-material. It need not be a conflagration67, but it should be bright and glowing, so that the punk birch or maple68 wood you add will not smother69 it entirely. After it is completed, you will not have to sit coughing in the thick of fumigation70, as do many, but only to leeward71 and underneath72. Your hat used as a fan will eddy73 the smoke temporarily into desirable nooks and crevices74. I have slept without annoyance on the Great Plains, where the mosquitoes seem to go in organized and predatory bands, merely by lying beneath a smudge that passed at least five feet above me. You will find the frying-pan a handy brazier for the accommodation of a movable smoke to be transported to the interior of the tent. And it does not in the least hurt the frying-pan. These be hints, briefly75 spoken, out of which at times you may have to construct elaborate campaigns.
But you come to grapples in the defence of comfort when night approaches. If you can eat and sleep well, you can stand almost any hardship. The night's rest is as carefully to be fore-assured as the food that sustains you. No precaution is too elaborate to certify76 unbroken repose77. By dark you will discover the peak of your tent to be liberally speckled with insects of all sorts. Especially is this true of an evening that threatens rain. Your smudge-pan may drive away the mosquitoes, but merely stupefies the other varieties. You are forced to the manipulation of a balsam fan.
In your use of this simple implement78 you will betray the extent of your experience. Dick used at first to begin at the rear peak and brush as rapidly as possible toward the opening. The flies, thoroughly aroused, eddied79 about a few frantic moments, like leaves in an autumn wind, finally to settle close to the sod in the crannies between the tent-wall and the ground. Then Dick would lie flat on his belly80 in order to brush with equal vigour at these new lurking-places. The flies repeated the autumn-leaf effect, and returned to the rear peak. This was amusing to me, and furnished the flies with healthful, appetizing exercise, but was bad for Dick's soul. After a time he discovered the only successful method is the gentle one. Then he began at the peak and brushed forward slowly, very, very slowly, so that the limited intellect of his visitors did not become confused. Thus when they arrived at the opening they saw it and used it, instead of searching frantically81 for corners in which to hide from apparently82 vengeful destruction. Then he would close his tent-flap securely, and turn in at once. So he was able to sleep until earliest daylight. At that time the mosquitoes again found him out.
Nine out of ten--perhaps ninety-nine out of a hundred--sleep in open tents. For absolute and perfect comfort proceed as follows:--Have your tent-maker sew you a tent of cheese-cloth[*] with the same dimensions as your shelter, except that the walls should be loose and voluminous at the bottom. It should have no openings.
[Footnote *: Do not allow yourself to be talked into substituting mosquito-bar or bobinet. Any mesh83 coarser than cheese-cloth will prove pregnable to the most enterprising of the smaller species.]
Suspend this affair inside your tent by means of cords or tapes. Drop it about you. Spread it out. Lay rod-cases, duffel-bags, or rocks along its lower edges to keep it spread. You will sleep beneath it like a child in winter. No driving out of reluctant flies; no enforced early rising; no danger of a single overlooked insect to make the midnight miserable. The cheese-cloth weighs almost nothing, can be looped up out of the way in the daytime, admits the air readily. Nothing could fill the soul with more ecstatic satisfaction than to lie for a moment before going to sleep listening to a noise outside like an able-bodied sawmill that indicates the _ping-gosh_ are abroad.
It would be unfair to leave the subject without a passing reference to its effect on the imagination. We are all familiar with comic paper mosquito stories, and some of them are very good. But until actual experience takes you by the hand and leads you into the realm of pure fancy, you will never know of what improvisation84 the human mind is capable.
The picture rises before my mind of the cabin of a twenty-eight-foot cutter-sloop85 just before the dawn of a midsummer day. The sloop was made for business, and the cabin harmonized exactly with the sloop--painted pine, wooden bunks86 without mattresses87, camp-blankets, duffel-bags slung88 up because all the floor place had been requisitioned for sleeping purposes. We were anchored a hundred feet off land from Pilot Cove39, on the uninhabited north shore. The mosquitoes had adventured on the deep. We lay half asleep.
"On the middle rafter," murmured the Football Man, "is one old fellow giving signals."
"A quartette is singing drinking-songs on my nose," muttered the Glee Club Man.
"We won't need to cook," I suggested somnolently89. "We can run up and down on deck with our mouths open and get enough for breakfast."
The fourth member opened one eye. "Boys," he breathed, "we won't be able to go on to-morrow unless we give up having any more biscuits."
After a time some one murmured, "Why?"
"We'll have to use all the lard on the mast. They're so mad because they can't get at us that they're biting the mast. It's already swelled up as big as a barrel. We'll never be able to get the mainsail up. Any of you boys got any vaseline? Perhaps a little fly-dope--"
But we snored vigorously in unison90. The Indians say that when Kitch' Manitou had created men he was dissatisfied, and so brought women into being. At once love-making began, and then, as now, the couples sought solitude91 for their exchanges of vows92, their sighings to the moon, their claspings of hands. Marriages ensued. The situation remained unchanged. Life was one perpetual honeymoon93. I suppose the novelty was fresh and the sexes had not yet realized they would not part as abruptly94 as they had been brought together. The villages were deserted95, while the woods and bushes were populous96 with wedded97 and unwedded lovers. Kitch' Manitou looked on the proceedings98 with disapproval99. All this was most romantic and beautiful, no doubt, but in the meantime mi-daw-min, the corn, mi-no-men, the rice, grew rank and uncultivated; while bis-iw, the lynx, and swingwaage, the wolverine, and me-en-gan, the wolf, committed unchecked depredations100 among the weaker forest creatures. The business of life was being sadly neglected. So Kitch' Manitou took counsel with himself, and created saw-gi-may, the mosquito, to whom he gave as dwelling101 the woods and bushes. That took the romance out of the situation. As my narrator grimly expressed it, "Him come back, go to work."
Certainly it should be most effective. Even the thick-skinned moose is not exempt102 from discomfort103. At certain seasons the canoe voyager in the Far North will run upon a dozen in the course of a day's travel, standing104 nose-deep in the river merely to escape the insect pests.
However, this is to be remembered: after the first of August they bother very little; before that time the campaign I have outlined is effective; even in fly season the worst days are infrequent. In the woods you must expect to pay a certain price in discomfort for a very real and very deep pleasure. Wet, heat, cold, hunger, thirst, difficult travel, insects, hard beds, aching muscles--all these at one time or another will be your portion. If you are of the class that cannot have a good time unless everything is right with it, stay out of the woods. One thing at least will always be wrong. When you have gained the faculty105 of ignoring the one disagreeable thing and concentrating your powers on the compensations, then you will have become a true woodsman, and to your desires the forest will always be calling.
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fissures
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| n.狭长裂缝或裂隙( fissure的名词复数 )；裂伤；分歧；分裂v.裂开( fissure的第三人称单数 ) | |
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precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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sullenly
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| 不高兴地，绷着脸，忧郁地 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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inspection
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| n.检查，审查，检阅 | |
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ruffled
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| adj. 有褶饰边的, 起皱的 动词ruffle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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eminently
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| adv.突出地；显著地；不寻常地 | |
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mooted
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| adj.未决定的，有争议的，有疑问的v.提出…供讨论( moot的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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lasting
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| adj.永久的，永恒的；vbl.持续，维持 | |
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anathemas
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| n.（天主教的）革出教门( anathema的名词复数 )；诅咒；令人极其讨厌的事；被基督教诅咒的人或事 | |
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descants
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| n.多声部音乐中的上方声部( descant的名词复数 ) | |
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Partisanship
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| n. 党派性, 党派偏见 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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heralds
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| n.使者( herald的名词复数 )；预报者；预兆；传令官v.预示( herald的第三人称单数 )；宣布（好或重要） | |
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kerosene
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| n.(kerosine)煤油，火油 | |
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tar
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| n.柏油，焦油；vt.涂或浇柏油/焦油于 | |
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cloves
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| n.丁香（热带树木的干花，形似小钉子，用作调味品，尤用作甜食的香料）( clove的名词复数 )；蒜瓣(a garlic ~|a ~of garlic) | |
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concoctions
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| n.编造，捏造，混合物( concoction的名词复数 ) | |
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annoyance
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| n.恼怒，生气，烦恼 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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makeup
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| n.组织；性格；化装品 | |
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swelling
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| n.肿胀 | |
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susceptible
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| adj.过敏的，敏感的；易动感情的，易受感动的 | |
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swelled
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| 增强( swell的过去式和过去分词 )； 肿胀； （使）凸出； 充满（激情） | |
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swarm
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| n.(昆虫)等一大群；vi.成群飞舞；蜂拥而入 | |
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trout
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| n.鳟鱼；鲑鱼(属) | |
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literally
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| adv.照字面意义，逐字地；确实 | |
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frantic
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| adj.狂乱的，错乱的，激昂的 | |
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muffled
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| adj.（声音）被隔的；听不太清的；（衣服）裹严的；蒙住的v.压抑，捂住( muffle的过去式和过去分词 )；用厚厚的衣帽包着（自己） | |
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swarms
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| 蜂群，一大群( swarm的名词复数 ) | |
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commendable
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| adj.值得称赞的 | |
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vigour
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| （=vigor）n.智力，体力，精力 | |
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routs
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| n.打垮，赶跑( rout的名词复数 )；（体育）打败对方v.打垮，赶跑( rout的第三人称单数 )；（体育）打败对方 | |
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brute
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| n.野兽，兽性 | |
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varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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cove
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| n.小海湾，小峡谷 | |
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homely
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| adj.家常的，简朴的；不漂亮的 | |
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mythological
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| adj.神话的 | |
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exasperation
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| n.愤慨 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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lengthened
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| （时间或空间）延长，伸长( lengthen的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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suavest
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| adj.平滑的( suave的最高级 )；有礼貌的；老于世故的 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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lighter
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| n.打火机，点火器；驳船；v.用驳船运送；light的比较级 | |
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caribou
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| n.北美驯鹿 | |
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providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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vividly
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| adv.清楚地，鲜明地，生动地 | |
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overcast
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| adj.阴天的，阴暗的，愁闷的；v.遮盖，（使）变暗，包边缝；n.覆盖，阴天 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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dwindle
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| v.逐渐变小（或减少） | |
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stunted
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| adj.矮小的；发育迟缓的 | |
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tangled
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| adj. 纠缠的，紊乱的 动词tangle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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impeded
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| 阻碍，妨碍，阻止( impede的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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clogged
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| （使）阻碍( clog的过去式和过去分词 )； 淤滞 | |
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isolation
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| n.隔离，孤立，分解，分离 | |
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stifling
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| a.令人窒息的 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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swarming
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| 密集( swarm的现在分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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hordes
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| n.移动着的一大群( horde的名词复数 )；部落 | |
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64
miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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65
twigs
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| 细枝，嫩枝( twig的名词复数 ) | |
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acrid
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| adj.辛辣的，尖刻的，刻薄的 | |
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conflagration
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| n.建筑物或森林大火 | |
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maple
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| n.槭树，枫树，槭木 | |
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69
smother
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| vt./vi.使窒息；抑制；闷死；n.浓烟；窒息 | |
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70
fumigation
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| n.烟熏，熏蒸；忿恨 | |
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71
leeward
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| adj.背风的；下风的 | |
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72
underneath
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| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
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eddy
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| n.漩涡，涡流 | |
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crevices
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| n.（尤指岩石的）裂缝，缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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briefly
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| adv.简单地，简短地 | |
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certify
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| vt.证明，证实；发证书(或执照)给 | |
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repose
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| v.(使)休息；n.安息 | |
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implement
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| n.(pl.)工具，器具；vt.实行，实施，执行 | |
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eddied
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| 起漩涡，旋转( eddy的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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belly
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| n.肚子，腹部；(像肚子一样)鼓起的部分，膛 | |
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frantically
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| ad.发狂地, 发疯地 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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mesh
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| n.网孔，网丝，陷阱；vt.以网捕捉，啮合，匹配；vi.适合； [计算机]网络 | |
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improvisation
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| n.即席演奏(或演唱)；即兴创作 | |
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sloop
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| n.单桅帆船 | |
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bunks
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| n.（车、船等倚壁而设的）铺位( bunk的名词复数 )；空话，废话v.（车、船等倚壁而设的）铺位( bunk的第三人称单数 )；空话，废话 | |
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mattresses
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| 褥垫，床垫( mattress的名词复数 ) | |
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slung
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| 抛( sling的过去式和过去分词 )； 吊挂； 遣送； 押往 | |
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somnolently
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| adv.瞌睡地；昏昏欲睡地；使人瞌睡地；催眠地 | |
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unison
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| n.步调一致，行动一致 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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vows
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| 誓言( vow的名词复数 )； 郑重宣布，许愿 | |
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honeymoon
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| n.蜜月（假期）；vi.度蜜月 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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populous
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| adj.人口稠密的，人口众多的 | |
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wedded
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| adj.正式结婚的；渴望…的，执著于…的v.嫁，娶，（与…）结婚( wed的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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proceedings
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| n.进程，过程，议程；诉讼(程序)；公报 | |
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disapproval
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| n.反对，不赞成 | |
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100
depredations
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| n.劫掠，毁坏( depredation的名词复数 ) | |
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101
dwelling
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| n.住宅，住所，寓所 | |
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102
exempt
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| adj.免除的；v.使免除；n.免税者，被免除义务者 | |
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103
discomfort
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| n.不舒服，不安，难过，困难，不方便 | |
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104
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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faculty
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| n.才能；学院，系；(学院或系的)全体教学人员 | |
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