Chapter X
To the Pentland Hills
On three sides of Edinburgh, the country slopes downward from the city, here to the sea, there to the fat farms of Haddington, there to the mineral fields of Linlithgow. On the south alone, it keeps rising until it not only out-tops the Castle but looks down on Arthur’s Seat. The character of the neighbourhood is pretty strongly marked by a scarcity2 of hedges; by many stone walls of varying height; by a fair amount of timber, some of it well grown, but apt to be of a bushy, northern profile and poor in foliage3; by here and there a little river, Esk or Leith or Almond, busily journeying in the bottom of its glen; and from almost every point, by a peep of the sea or the hills. There is no lack of variety, and yet most of the elements are common to all parts; and the southern district is alone distinguished4 by considerable summits and a wide view.
From Boroughmuirhead, where the Scottish army encamped before Flodden, the road descends5 a long hill, at the bottom of which and just as it is preparing to mount upon the other side, it passes a toll6-bar and issues at once into the open country. Even as I write these words, they are being antiquated7 in the progress of events, and the chisels8 are tinkling9 on a new row of houses. The builders have at length adventured beyond the toll which held them in respect so long, and proceed to career in these fresh pastures like a herd10 of colts turned loose. As Lord Beaconsfield proposed to hang an architect by way of stimulation11, a man, looking on these doomed12 meads, imagines a similar example to deter13 the builders; for it seems as if it must come to an open fight at last to preserve a corner of green country unbedevilled. And here, appropriately enough, there stood in old days a crow-haunted gibbet, with two bodies hanged in chains. I used to be shown, when a child, a flat stone in the roadway to which the gibbet had been fixed14. People of a willing fancy were persuaded, and sought to persuade others, that this stone was never dry. And no wonder, they would add, for the two men had only stolen fourpence between them.
For about two miles the road climbs upwards15, a long hot walk in summer time. You reach the summit at a place where four ways meet, beside the toll of Fairmilehead. The spot is breezy and agreeable both in name and aspect. The hills are close by across a valley: Kirk Yetton, with its long, upright scars visible as far as Fife, and Allermuir the tallest on this side with wood and tilled field running high upon their borders, and haunches all moulded into innumerable glens and shelvings and variegated16 with heather and fern. The air comes briskly and sweetly off the hills, pure from the elevation17 and rustically18 scented19 by the upland plants; and even at the toll, you may hear the curlew calling on its mate. At certain seasons, when the gulls20 desert their surfy forelands, the birds of sea and mountain hunt and scream together in the same field by Fairmilehead. The winged, wild things intermix their wheelings, the sea-birds skim the tree-tops and fish among the furrows21 of the plough. These little craft of air are at home in all the world, so long as they cruise in their own element; and, like sailors, ask but food and water from the shores they coast.
Below, over a stream, the road passes Bow Bridge, now a dairy-farm, but once a distillery of whisky. It chanced, some time in the past century, that the distiller was on terms of good-fellowship with the visiting officer of excise22. The latter was of an easy, friendly disposition23, and a master of convivial24 arts. Now and again, he had to walk out of Edinburgh to measure the distiller’s stock; and although it was agreeable to find his business lead him in a friend’s direction, it was unfortunate that the friend should be a loser by his visits. Accordingly, when he got about the level of Fairmilehead, the gauger25 would take his flute26, without which he never travelled, from his pocket, fit it together, and set manfully to playing, as if for his own delectation and inspired by the beauty of the scene. His favourite air, it seems, was ‘Over the hills and far away.’ At the first note, the distiller pricked27 his ears. A flute at Fairmilehead? and playing ‘Over the hills and far away?’ This must be his friendly enemy, the gauger. Instantly horses were harnessed, and sundry28 barrels of whisky were got upon a cart, driven at a gallop29 round Hill End, and buried in the mossy glen behind Kirk Yetton. In the same breath, you may be sure, a fat fowl31 was put to the fire, and the whitest napery prepared for the back parlour. A little after, the gauger, having had his fill of music for the moment, came strolling down with the most innocent air imaginable, and found the good people at Bow Bridge taken entirely32 unawares by his arrival, but none the less glad to see him. The distiller’s liquor and the gauger’s flute would combine to speed the moments of digestion33; and when both were somewhat mellow34, they would wind up the evening with ‘Over the hills and far away’ to an accompaniment of knowing glances. And at least, there is a smuggling35 story, with original and half-idyllic features.
A little further, the road to the right passes an upright stone in a field. The country people call it General Kay’s monument. According to them, an officer of that name had perished there in battle at some indistinct period before the beginning of history. The date is reassuring36; for I think cautious writers are silent on the General’s exploits. But the stone is connected with one of those remarkable37 tenures of land which linger on into the modern world from Feudalism. Whenever the reigning38 sovereign passes by, a certain landed proprietor39 is held bound to climb on to the top, trumpet40 in hand, and sound a flourish according to the measure of his knowledge in that art. Happily for a respectable family, crowned heads have no great business in the Pentland Hills. But the story lends a character of comicality to the stone; and the passer-by will sometimes chuckle41 to himself.
The district is dear to the superstitious42. Hard by, at the back-gate of Comiston, a belated carter beheld43 a lady in white, ‘with the most beautiful, clear shoes upon her feet,’ who looked upon him in a very ghastly manner and then vanished; and just in front is the Hunters’ Tryst44, once a roadside inn, and not so long ago haunted by the devil in person. Satan led the inhabitants a pitiful existence. He shook the four corners of the building with lamentable45 outcries, beat at the doors and windows, overthrew46 crockery in the dead hours of the morning, and danced unholy dances on the roof. Every kind of spiritual disinfectant was put in requisition; chosen ministers were summoned out of Edinburgh and prayed by the hour; pious47 neighbours sat up all night making a noise of psalmody; but Satan minded them no more than the wind about the hill-tops; and it was only after years of persecution48, that he left the Hunters’ Tryst in peace to occupy himself with the remainder of mankind. What with General Kay, and the white lady, and this singular visitation, the neighbourhood offers great facilities to the makers49 of sun-myths; and without exactly casting in one’s lot with that disenchanting school of writers, one cannot help hearing a good deal of the winter wind in the last story. ‘That nicht,’ says Burns, in one of his happiest moments,-
‘That nicht a child might understand
The Deil had business on his hand.’
And if people sit up all night in lone1 places on the hills, with Bibles and tremulous psalms50, they will be apt to hear some of the most fiendish noises in the world; the wind will beat on doors and dance upon roofs for them, and make the hills howl around their cottage with a clamour like the judgment-day.
The road goes down through another valley, and then finally begins to scale the main slope of the Pentlands. A bouquet51 of old trees stands round a white farmhouse52; and from a neighbouring dell, you can see smoke rising and leaves ruffling53 in the breeze. Straight above, the hills climb a thousand feet into the air. The neighbourhood, about the time of lambs, is clamorous54 with the bleating55 of flocks; and you will be awakened57, in the grey of early summer mornings, by the barking of a dog or the voice of a shepherd shouting to the echoes. This, with the hamlet lying behind unseen, is Swanston.
The place in the dell is immediately connected with the city. Long ago, this sheltered field was purchased by the Edinburgh magistrates58 for the sake of the springs that rise or gather there. After they had built their water-house and laid their pipes, it occurred to them that the place was suitable for junketing. Once entertained, with jovial59 magistrates and public funds, the idea led speedily to accomplishment60; and Edinburgh could soon boast of a municipal Pleasure House. The dell was turned into a garden; and on the knoll61 that shelters it from the plain and the sea winds, they built a cottage looking to the hills. They brought crockets and gargoyles62 from old St. Giles’s which they were then restoring, and disposed them on the gables and over the door and about the garden; and the quarry63 which had supplied them with building material, they draped with clematis and carpeted with beds of roses. So much for the pleasure of the eye; for creature comfort, they made a capacious cellar in the hillside and fitted it with bins64 of the hewn stone. In process of time, the trees grew higher and gave shade to the cottage, and the evergreens65 sprang up and turned the dell into a thicket66. There, purple magistrates relaxed themselves from the pursuit of municipal ambition; cocked hats paraded soberly about the garden and in and out among the hollies67; authoritative68 canes69 drew ciphering upon the path; and at night, from high upon the hills, a shepherd saw lighted windows through the foliage and heard the voice of city dignitaries raised in song.
The farm is older. It was first a grange of Whitekirk Abbey, tilled and inhabited by rosy70 friars. Thence, after the Reformation, it passed into the hands of a true-blue Protestant family. During the covenanting71 troubles, when a night conventicle was held upon the Pentlands, the farm doors stood hospitably72 open till the morning; the dresser was laden73 with cheese and bannocks, milk and brandy; and the worshippers kept slipping down from the hill between two exercises, as couples visit the supper-room between two dances of a modern ball. In the Forty-Five, some foraging74 Highlanders from Prince Charlie’s army fell upon Swanston in the dawn. The great-grandfather of the late farmer was then a little child; him they awakened by plucking the blankets from his bed, and he remembered, when he was an old man, their truculent75 looks and uncouth76 speech. The churn stood full of cream in the dairy, and with this they made their brose in high delight. ‘It was braw brose,’ said one of them. At last they made off, laden like camels with their booty; and Swanston Farm has lain out of the way of history from that time forward. I do not know what may be yet in store for it. On dark days, when the mist runs low upon the hill, the house has a gloomy air as if suitable for private tragedy. But in hot July, you can fancy nothing more perfect than the garden, laid out in alleys77 and arbours and bright, old-fashioned flower-plots, and ending in a miniature ravine, all trellis-work and moss30 and tinkling waterfall, and housed from the sun under fathoms78 of broad foliage.
The hamlet behind is one of the least considerable of hamlets, and consists of a few cottages on a green beside a burn. Some of them (a strange thing in Scotland) are models of internal neatness; the beds adorned79 with patchwork80, the shelves arrayed with willow-pattern plates, the floors and tables bright with scrubbing or pipe-clay, and the very kettle polished like silver. It is the sign of a contented81 old age in country places, where there is little matter for gossip and no street sights. Housework becomes an art; and at evening, when the cottage interior shines and twinkles in the glow of the fire, the housewife folds her hands and contemplates82 her finished picture; the snow and the wind may do their worst, she has made herself a pleasant corner in the world. The city might be a thousand miles away, and yet it was from close by that Mr. Bough83 painted the distant view of Edinburgh which has been engraved84 for this collection; and you have only to look at the etching, 2 to see how near it is at hand. But hills and hill people are not easily sophisticated; and if you walk out here on a summer Sunday, it is as like as not the shepherd may set his dogs upon you. But keep an unmoved countenance85; they look formidable at the charge, but their hearts are in the right place, and they will only bark and sprawl86 about you on the grass, unmindful of their master’s excitations.
2 One of the illustrations of the First Edition.
Kirk Yetton forms the north-eastern angle of the range; thence, the Pentlands trend off to south and west. From the summit you look over a great expanse of champaign sloping to the sea, and behold87 a large variety of distant hills. There are the hills of Fife, the hills of Peebles, the Lammermoors and the Ochils, more or less mountainous in outline, more or less blue with distance. Of the Pentlands themselves, you see a field of wild heathery peaks with a pond gleaming in the midst; and to that side the view is as desolate88 as if you were looking into Galloway or Applecross. To turn to the other is like a piece of travel. Far out in the lowlands Edinburgh shows herself, making a great smoke on clear days and spreading her suburbs about her for miles; the Castle rises darkly in the midst, and close by, Arthur’s Seat makes a bold figure in the landscape. All around, cultivated fields, and woods, and smoking villages, and white country roads, diversify89 the uneven90 surface of the land. Trains crawl slowly abroad upon the railway lines; little ships are tacking91 in the Firth; the shadow of a mountainous cloud, as large as a parish, travels before the wind; the wind itself ruffles92 the wood and standing93 corn, and sends pulses of varying colour across the landscape. So you sit, like Jupiter upon Olympus, and look down from afar upon men’s life. The city is as silent as a city of the dead: from all its humming thoroughfares, not a voice, not a footfall, reaches you upon the hill. The sea-surf, the cries of ploughmen, the streams and the mill-wheels, the birds and the wind, keep up an animated94 concert through the plain; from farm to farm, dogs and crowing cocks contend together in defiance95; and yet from this Olympian station, except for the whispering rumour96 of a train, the world has fallen into a dead silence, and the business of town and country grown voiceless in your ears. A crying hill-bird, the bleat56 of a sheep, a wind singing in the dry grass, seem not so much to interrupt, as to accompany, the stillness; but to the spiritual ear, the whole scene makes a music at once human and rural, and discourses97 pleasant reflections on the destiny of man. The spiry98 habitable city, ships, the divided fields, and browsing99 herds100, and the straight highways, tell visibly of man’s active and comfortable ways; and you may be never so laggard101 and never so unimpressionable, but there is something in the view that spirits up your blood and puts you in the vein102 for cheerful labour.
Immediately below is Fairmilehead, a spot of roof and a smoking chimney, where two roads, no thicker than packthread, intersect beside a hanging wood. If you are fanciful, you will be reminded of the gauger in the story. And the thought of this old exciseman, who once lipped and fingered on his pipe and uttered clear notes from it in the mountain air, and the words of the song he affected103, carry your mind ‘Over the hills and far away’ to distant countries; and you have a vision of Edinburgh not, as you see her, in the midst of a little neighbourhood, but as a boss upon the round world with all Europe and the deep sea for her surroundings. For every place is a centre to the earth, whence highways radiate or ships set sail for foreign ports; the limit of a parish is not more imaginary than the frontier of an empire; and as a man sitting at home in his cabinet and swiftly writing books, so a city sends abroad an influence and a portrait of herself. There is no Edinburgh emigrant104, far or near, from China to Peru, but he or she carries some lively pictures of the mind, some sunset behind the Castle cliffs, some snow scene, some maze105 of city lamps, indelible in the memory and delightful106 to study in the intervals107 of toil108. For any such, if this book fall in their way, here are a few more home pictures. It would be pleasant, if they should recognise a house where they had dwelt, or a walk that they had taken.
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lone
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| adj.孤寂的，单独的；唯一的 | |
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scarcity
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| n.缺乏，不足，萧条 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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descends
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| v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 )；下去；下降；下斜 | |
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toll
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| n.过路(桥)费；损失，伤亡人数；v.敲(钟) | |
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antiquated
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| adj.陈旧的，过时的 | |
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chisels
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| n.凿子，錾子( chisel的名词复数 )；口凿 | |
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tinkling
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| n.丁当作响声 | |
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herd
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| n.兽群，牧群；vt.使集中，把…赶在一起 | |
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stimulation
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| n.刺激，激励，鼓舞 | |
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doomed
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| 命定的 | |
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deter
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| vt.阻止，使不敢，吓住 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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variegated
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| adj.斑驳的，杂色的 | |
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elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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rustically
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| adv.乡土气地，简朴地 | |
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scented
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| adj.有香味的；洒香水的；有气味的v.嗅到(scent的过去分词) | |
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gulls
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| n.鸥( gull的名词复数 )v.欺骗某人( gull的第三人称单数 ) | |
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furrows
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| n.犁沟( furrow的名词复数 )；（脸上的）皱纹v.犁田，开沟( furrow的第三人称单数 ) | |
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excise
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| n.(国产)货物税；vt.切除，删去 | |
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disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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convivial
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| adj.狂欢的，欢乐的 | |
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gauger
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| n.收税官 | |
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flute
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| n.长笛；v.吹笛 | |
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pricked
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| 刺，扎，戳( prick的过去式和过去分词 )； 刺伤； 刺痛； 使剧痛 | |
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sundry
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| adj.各式各样的，种种的 | |
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gallop
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| v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔；飞速发展 | |
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moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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fowl
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| n.家禽，鸡，禽肉 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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digestion
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| n.消化，吸收 | |
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mellow
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| adj.柔和的；熟透的；v.变柔和；(使)成熟 | |
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smuggling
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| n.走私 | |
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reassuring
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| a.使人消除恐惧和疑虑的，使人放心的 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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reigning
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| adj.统治的，起支配作用的 | |
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proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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trumpet
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| n.喇叭，喇叭声；v.吹喇叭，吹嘘 | |
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chuckle
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| vi.／n.轻声笑，咯咯笑 | |
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superstitious
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| adj.迷信的 | |
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beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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tryst
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| n.约会；v.与…幽会 | |
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lamentable
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| adj.令人惋惜的，悔恨的 | |
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overthrew
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| overthrow的过去式 | |
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pious
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| adj.虔诚的；道貌岸然的 | |
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persecution
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| n. 迫害,烦扰 | |
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makers
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| n.制造者，制造商（maker的复数形式） | |
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psalms
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| n.赞美诗( psalm的名词复数 )；圣诗；圣歌；(中的) | |
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bouquet
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| n.花束，酒香 | |
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farmhouse
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| n.农场住宅（尤指主要住房） | |
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ruffling
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| 弄皱( ruffle的现在分词 )； 弄乱； 激怒； 扰乱 | |
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clamorous
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| adj.吵闹的，喧哗的 | |
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bleating
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| v.（羊，小牛）叫( bleat的现在分词 )；哭诉；发出羊叫似的声音；轻声诉说 | |
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bleat
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| v.咩咩叫，(讲)废话，哭诉；n.咩咩叫，废话，哭诉 | |
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awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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magistrates
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| 地方法官，治安官( magistrate的名词复数 ) | |
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jovial
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| adj.快乐的，好交际的 | |
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accomplishment
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| n.完成，成就，（pl.）造诣，技能 | |
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knoll
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| n.小山，小丘 | |
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gargoyles
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| n.怪兽状滴水嘴( gargoyle的名词复数 ) | |
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quarry
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| n.采石场；v.采石；费力地找 | |
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bins
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| n.大储藏箱( bin的名词复数 )；宽口箱（如面包箱，垃圾箱等）v.扔掉，丢弃( bin的第三人称单数 ) | |
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evergreens
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| n.常青树，常绿植物，万年青( evergreen的名词复数 ) | |
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thicket
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| n.灌木丛，树林 | |
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hollies
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| n.冬青（常绿灌木，叶尖而硬，有光泽，冬季结红色浆果）( holly的名词复数 )；（用作圣诞节饰物的）冬青树枝 | |
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68
authoritative
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| adj.有权威的，可相信的；命令式的；官方的 | |
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69
canes
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| n.（某些植物，如竹或甘蔗的）茎( cane的名词复数 )；（用于制作家具等的）竹竿；竹杖 | |
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70
rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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71
covenanting
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| v.立约，立誓( covenant的现在分词 ) | |
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72
hospitably
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| 亲切地，招待周到地，善于款待地 | |
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laden
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| adj.装满了的；充满了的；负了重担的；苦恼的 | |
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74
foraging
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| v.搜寻（食物），尤指动物觅（食）( forage的现在分词 )；（尤指用手）搜寻（东西） | |
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75
truculent
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| adj.野蛮的，粗野的 | |
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76
uncouth
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| adj.无教养的，粗鲁的 | |
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77
alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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78
fathoms
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| 英寻( fathom的名词复数 ) | |
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79
adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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80
patchwork
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| n.混杂物；拼缝物 | |
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81
contented
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| adj.满意的，安心的，知足的 | |
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82
contemplates
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| 深思，细想，仔细考虑( contemplate的第三人称单数 )； 注视，凝视； 考虑接受（发生某事的可能性）； 深思熟虑，沉思，苦思冥想 | |
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83
bough
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| n.大树枝，主枝 | |
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84
engraved
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| v.在（硬物）上雕刻（字，画等）( engrave的过去式和过去分词 )；将某事物深深印在（记忆或头脑中） | |
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85
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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86
sprawl
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| vi.躺卧，扩张，蔓延；vt.使蔓延；n.躺卧，蔓延 | |
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87
behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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88
desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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89
diversify
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| v.（使）不同，（使）变得多样化 | |
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90
uneven
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| adj.不平坦的，不规则的，不均匀的 | |
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91
tacking
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| （帆船）抢风行驶，定位焊[铆]紧钉 | |
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92
ruffles
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| 褶裥花边( ruffle的名词复数 ) | |
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93
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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95
defiance
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| n.挑战，挑衅，蔑视，违抗 | |
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96
rumour
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| n.谣言，谣传，传闻 | |
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97
discourses
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| 论文( discourse的名词复数 )； 演说； 讲道； 话语 | |
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98
spiry
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| adj.尖端的，尖塔状的，螺旋状的 | |
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99
browsing
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| v.吃草( browse的现在分词 )；随意翻阅；（在商店里）随便看看；（在计算机上）浏览信息 | |
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100
herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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101
laggard
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| n.落后者；adj.缓慢的，落后的 | |
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102
vein
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| n.血管，静脉；叶脉，纹理；情绪；vt.使成脉络 | |
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103
affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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104
emigrant
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| adj.移居的，移民的；n.移居外国的人，移民 | |
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105
maze
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| n.迷宫，八阵图，混乱，迷惑 | |
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106
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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107
intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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108
toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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