—“That done, he leads him to the highest mount,
From whence, far off he unto him did show:"—
If you seek to ascend1 Rock Rodondo, take the following prescription2. Go three voyages round the world as a main-royal-man of the tallest frigate3 that floats; then serve a year or two apprenticeship4 to the guides who conduct strangers up the Peak of Teneriffe; and as many more respectively to a rope-dancer, an Indian juggler5, and a chamois. This done, come and be rewarded by the view from our tower. How we get there, we alone know. If we sought to tell others, what the wiser were they? Suffice it, that here at the summit you and I stand. Does any balloonist, does the outlooking man in the moon, take a broader view of space? Much thus, one fancies, looks the universe from Milton’s celestial6 battlements. A boundless7 watery8 Kentucky. Here Daniel Boone would have dwelt content.
Never heed9 for the present yonder Burnt District of the Enchanted10 Isles12. Look edgeways, as it were, past them, to the south. You see nothing; but permit me to point out the direction, if not the place, of certain interesting objects in the vast sea, which, kissing this tower’s base, we behold14 unscrolling itself towards the Antarctic Pole.
We stand now ten miles from the Equator. Yonder, to the East, some six hundred miles, lies the continent; this Rock being just about on the parallel of Quito.
Observe another thing here. We are at one of three uninhabited clusters, which, at pretty nearly uniform distances from the main, sentinel, at long intervals15 from each other, the entire coast of South America. In a peculiar16 manner, also, they terminate the South American character of country. Of the unnumbered Polynesian chains to the westward17, not one partakes of the qualities of the Encantadas or Gallipagos, the isles of St. Felix and St. Ambrose, the isles Juan–Fernandez and Massafuero. Of the first, it needs not here to speak. The second lie a little above the Southern Tropic; lofty, inhospitable, and uninhabitable rocks, one of which, presenting two round hummocks18 connected by a low reef, exactly resembles a huge double-headed shot. The last lie in the latitude19 of 33°; high, wild and cloven. Juan Fernandez is sufficiently20 famous without further description. Massafuero is a Spanish name, expressive21 of the fact, that the isle11 so called lies more without, that is, further off the main than its neighbor Juan. This isle Massafuero has a very imposing22 aspect at a distance of eight or ten miles. Approached in one direction, in cloudy weather, its great overhanging height and rugged23 contour, and more especially a peculiar slope of its broad summits, give it much the air of a vast iceberg24 drifting in tremendous poise25. Its sides are split with dark cavernous recesses26, as an old cathedral with its gloomy lateral27 chapels28. Drawing nigh one of these gorges29 from sea, after a long voyage, and beholding30 some tatterdemalion outlaw31, staff in hand, descending32 its steep rocks toward you, conveys a very queer emotion to a lover of the picturesque33.
On fishing parties from ships, at various times, I have chanced to visit each of these groups. The impression they give to the stranger pulling close up in his boat under their grim cliffs is, that surely he must be their first discoverer, such, for the most part, is the unimpaired ... silence and solitude34. And here, by the way, the mode in which these isles were really first lighted upon by Europeans is not unworthy of mention, especially as what is about to be said, likewise applies to the original discovery of our Encantadas.
Prior to the year 1563, the voyages made by Spanish ships from Peru to Chili35, were full of difficulty. Along this coast, the winds from the South most generally prevail; and it had been an invariable custom to keep close in with the land, from a superstitious36 conceit37 on the part of the Spaniards, that were they to lose sight of it, the eternal trade-wind would waft38 them into unending waters, from whence would be no return. Here, involved among tortuous39 capes40 and headlands, shoals and reefs, beating, too, against a continual head wind, often light, and sometimes for days and weeks sunk into utter calm, the provincial41 vessels42, in many cases, suffered the extremest hardships, in passages, which at the present day seem to have been incredibly protracted43. There is on record in some collections of nautical44 disasters, an account of one of these ships, which, starting on a voyage whose duration was estimated at ten days, spent four months at sea, and indeed never again entered harbor, for in the end she was cast away. Singular to tell, this craft never encountered a gale45, but was the vexed46 sport of malicious47 calms and currents. Thrice, out of provisions, she put back to an intermediate port, and started afresh, but only yet again to return. Frequent fogs enveloped48 her; so that no observation could be had of her place, and once, when all hands were joyously49 anticipating sight of their destination, lo! the vapors50 lifted and disclosed the mountains from which they had taken their first departure. In the like deceptive51 vapors she at last struck upon a reef, whence ensued a long series of calamities52 too sad to detail.
It was the famous pilot, Juan Fernandez, immortalized by the island named after him, who put an end to these coasting tribulations53, by boldly venturing the experiment—as De Gama did before him with respect to Europe—of standing54 broad out from land. Here he found the winds favorable for getting to the South, and by running westward till beyond the influences of the trades, he regained55 the coast without difficulty; making the passage which, though in a high degree circuitous56, proved far more expeditious57 than the nominally58 direct one. Now it was upon these new tracks, and about the year 1670, or thereabouts, that the Enchanted Isles, and the rest of the sentinel groups, as they may be called, were discovered. Though I know of no account as to whether any of them were found inhabited or no, it may be reasonably concluded that they have been immemorial solitudes59. But let us return to Redondo.
Southwest from our tower lies all Polynesia, hundreds of leagues away; but straight west, on the precise line of his parallel, no land rises till your keel is beached upon the Kingsmills, a nice little sail of, say 5000 miles.
Having thus by such distant references—with Rodondo the only possible ones—settled our relative place on the sea, let us consider objects not quite so remote. Behold the grim and charred60 Enchanted Isles. This nearest crater-shaped headland is part of Albemarle, the largest of the group, being some sixty miles or more long, and fifteen broad. Did you ever lay eye on the real genuine Equator? Have you ever, in the largest sense, toed the Line? Well, that identical crater-shaped headland there, all yellow lava61, is cut by the Equator exactly as a knife cuts straight through the centre of a pumpkin62 pie. If you could only see so far, just to one side of that same headland, across yon low dikey ground, you would catch sight of the isle of Narborough, the loftiest land of the cluster; no soil whatever; one seamed clinker from top to bottom; abounding63 in black caves like smithies; its metallic64 shore ringing under foot like plates of iron; its central volcanoes standing grouped like a gigantic chimney-stack.
Narborough and Albemarle are neighbors after a quite curious fashion. A familiar diagram will illustrate65 this strange neighborhood:
[Illustration]
Cut a channel at the above letter joint66, and the middle transverse limb is Narborough, and all the rest is Albemarle. Volcanic67 Narborough lies in the black jaws68 of Albemarle like a wolf’s red tongue in his open month.
If now you desire the population of Albemarle, I will give you, in round numbers, the statistics, according to the most reliable estimates made upon the spot:
Men, none. Ant-eaters, unknown. Man-haters, unknown. Lizards69, 500,000. Snakes, 500,000. Spiders, 10,000,000. Salamanders, unknown. Devils, do. Making a clean total of 11,000,000,
exclusive of an incomputable host of fiends, ant-eaters, man-haters, and salamanders.
Albemarle opens his mouth towards the setting sun. His distended70 jaws form a great bay, which Narborough, his tongue, divides into halves, one whereof is called Weather Bay, the other Lee Bay; while the volcanic promontories71, terminating his coasts, are styled South Head and North Head. I note this, because these bays are famous in the annals of the Sperm72 Whale Fishery. The whales come here at certain seasons to calve. When ships first cruised hereabouts, I am told, they used to blockade the entrance of Lee Bay, when their boats going round by Weather Bay, passed through Narborough channel, and so had the Leviathans very neatly73 in a pen.
The day after we took fish at the base of this Round Tower, we had a fine wind, and shooting round the north headland, suddenly descried74 a fleet of full thirty sail, all beating to windward like a squadron in line. A brave sight as ever man saw. A most harmonious75 concord76 of rushing keels. Their thirty kelsons hummed like thirty harp-strings, and looked as straight whilst they left their parallel traces on the sea. But there proved too many hunters for the game. The fleet broke up, and went their separate ways out of sight, leaving my own ship and two trim gentlemen of London. These last, finding no luck either, likewise vanished; and Lee Bay, with all its appurtenances, and without a rival, devolved to us.
The way of cruising here is this. You keep hovering77 about the entrance of the bay, in one beat and out the next. But at times—not always, as in other parts of the group—a racehorse of a current sweeps right across its mouth. So, with all sails set, you carefully ply78 your tacks79. How often, standing at the foremast head at sunrise, with our patient prow80 pointed81 in between these isles, did I gaze upon that land, not of cakes, but of clinkers, not of streams of sparkling water, but arrested torrents82 of tormented83 lava.
As the ship runs in from the open sea, Narborough presents its side in one dark craggy mass, soaring up some five or six thousand feet, at which point it hoods84 itself in heavy clouds, whose lowest level fold is as clearly defined against the rocks as the snow-line against the Andes. There is dire13 mischief85 going on in that upper dark. There toil86 the demons87 of fire, who, at intervals, irradiate the nights with a strange spectral88 illumination for miles and miles around, but unaccompanied by any further demonstration89; or else, suddenly announce themselves by terrific concussions90, and the full drama of a volcanic eruption91. The blacker that cloud by day, the more may you look for light by night. Often whalemen have found themselves cruising nigh that burning mountain when all aglow92 with a ball-room blaze. Or, rather, glass-works, you may call this same vitreous isle of Narborough, with its tall chimney-stacks.
Where we still stand, here on Rodondo, we cannot see all the other isles, but it is a good place from which to point out where they lie. Yonder, though, to the E.N.E., I mark a distant dusky ridge93. It is Abington Isle, one of the most northerly of the group; so solitary94, remote, and blank, it looks like No–Man’s Land seen off our northern shore. I doubt whether two human beings ever touched upon that spot. So far as yon Abington Isle is concerned, Adam and his billions of posterity95 remain uncreated.
Ranging south of Abington, and quite out of sight behind the long spine96 of Albemarle, lies James’s Isle, so called by the early Buccaneers after the luckless Stuart, Duke of York. Observe here, by the way, that, excepting the isles particularized in comparatively recent times, and which mostly received the names of famous Admirals, the Encantadas were first christened by the Spaniards; but these Spanish names were generally effaced97 on English charts by the subsequent christenings of the Buccaneers, who, in the middle of the seventeenth century, called them after English noblemen and kings. Of these loyal freebooters and the things which associate their name with the Encantadas, we shall hear anon. Nay98, for one little item, immediately; for between James’s Isle and Albemarle, lies a fantastic islet, strangely known as “Cowley’s Enchanted Isle.” But, as all the group is deemed enchanted, the reason must be given for the spell within a spell involved by this particular designation. The name was bestowed99 by that excellent Buccaneer himself, on his first visit here. Speaking in his published voyages of this spot, he says—“My fancy led me to call it Cowley’s Enchanted Isle, for, we having had a sight of it upon several points of the compass, it appeared always in so many different forms; sometimes like a ruined fortification; upon another point like a great city,” etc. No wonder though, that among the Encantadas all sorts of ocular deceptions100 and mirages101 should be met.
That Cowley linked his name with this self-transforming and bemocking isle, suggests the possibility that it conveyed to him some meditative102 image of himself. At least, as is not impossible, if he were any relative of the mildly-thoughtful and self-upbraiding poet Cowley, who lived about his time, the conceit might seem unwarranted; for that sort of thing evinced in the naming of this isle runs in the blood, and may be seen in pirates as in poets.
Still south of James’s Isle lie Jervis Isle, Duncan Isle, Grossman’s Isle, Brattle Isle, Wood’s Isle, Chatham Isle, and various lesser103 isles, for the most part an archipelago of aridities, without inhabitant, history, or hope of either in all time to come. But not far from these are rather notable isles—Barrington, Charles’s, Norfolk, and Hood’s. Succeeding chapters will reveal some ground for their notability.
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1
ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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prescription
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| n.处方，开药；指示，规定 | |
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frigate
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| n.护航舰，大型驱逐舰 | |
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apprenticeship
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| n.学徒身份；学徒期 | |
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juggler
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| n. 变戏法者, 行骗者 | |
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celestial
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| adj.天体的；天上的 | |
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boundless
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| adj.无限的；无边无际的；巨大的 | |
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watery
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| adj.有水的，水汪汪的；湿的，湿润的 | |
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heed
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| v.注意，留意；n.注意，留心 | |
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enchanted
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| adj. 被施魔法的，陶醉的，入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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isle
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| n.小岛，岛 | |
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isles
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| 岛( isle的名词复数 ) | |
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dire
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| adj.可怕的，悲惨的，阴惨的，极端的 | |
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behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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hummocks
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| n.小丘，岗( hummock的名词复数 ) | |
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latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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expressive
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| adj.表现的，表达…的，富于表情的 | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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iceberg
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| n.冰山，流冰，冷冰冰的人 | |
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poise
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| vt./vi. 平衡，保持平衡；n.泰然自若，自信 | |
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recesses
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| n.壁凹( recess的名词复数 )；（工作或业务活动的）中止或暂停期间；学校的课间休息；某物内部的凹形空间v.把某物放在墙壁的凹处( recess的第三人称单数 )；将（墙）做成凹形，在（墙）上做壁龛；休息，休会，休庭 | |
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lateral
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| adj.侧面的，旁边的 | |
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chapels
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| n.小教堂， （医院、监狱等的）附属礼拜堂( chapel的名词复数 )；（在小教堂和附属礼拜堂举行的）礼拜仪式 | |
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gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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beholding
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| v.看，注视( behold的现在分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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outlaw
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| n.歹徒，亡命之徒；vt.宣布…为不合法 | |
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descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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chili
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| n.辣椒 | |
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superstitious
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| adj.迷信的 | |
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conceit
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| n.自负，自高自大 | |
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waft
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| v.飘浮，飘荡；n.一股；一阵微风；飘荡 | |
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tortuous
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| adj.弯弯曲曲的，蜿蜒的 | |
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capes
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| 碎谷； 斗篷( cape的名词复数 )； 披肩； 海角； 岬 | |
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provincial
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| adj.省的，地方的；n．外省人，乡下人 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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protracted
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| adj.拖延的；延长的v.拖延“protract”的过去式和过去分词 | |
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nautical
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| adj.海上的，航海的，船员的 | |
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gale
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| n.大风，强风，一阵闹声（尤指笑声等） | |
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vexed
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| adj.争论不休的；（指问题等）棘手的；争论不休的问题；烦恼的v.使烦恼( vex的过去式和过去分词 )；使苦恼；使生气；详细讨论 | |
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malicious
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| adj.有恶意的，心怀恶意的 | |
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enveloped
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| v.包围，笼罩，包住( envelop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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joyously
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| ad.快乐地, 高兴地 | |
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vapors
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| n.水汽，水蒸气，无实质之物( vapor的名词复数 )；自夸者；幻想 [药]吸入剂 [古]忧郁（症）v.自夸，（使）蒸发( vapor的第三人称单数 ) | |
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deceptive
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| adj.骗人的，造成假象的，靠不住的 | |
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calamities
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| n.灾祸，灾难( calamity的名词复数 )；不幸之事 | |
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tribulations
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| n.苦难( tribulation的名词复数 )；艰难；苦难的缘由；痛苦 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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regained
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| 复得( regain的过去式和过去分词 )； 赢回； 重回； 复至某地 | |
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circuitous
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| adj.迂回的路的，迂曲的，绕行的 | |
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expeditious
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| adj.迅速的，敏捷的 | |
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nominally
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| 在名义上，表面地； 应名儿 | |
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solitudes
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| n.独居( solitude的名词复数 )；孤独；荒僻的地方；人迹罕至的地方 | |
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charred
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| v.把…烧成炭( char的过去式)；烧焦 | |
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lava
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| n.熔岩，火山岩 | |
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pumpkin
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| n.南瓜 | |
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abounding
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| adj.丰富的，大量的v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的现在分词 ) | |
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metallic
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| adj.金属的；金属制的；含金属的；产金属的；像金属的 | |
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illustrate
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| v.举例说明，阐明；图解，加插图 | |
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joint
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| adj.联合的，共同的；n.关节，接合处；v.连接，贴合 | |
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volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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jaws
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| n.口部；嘴 | |
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lizards
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| n.蜥蜴( lizard的名词复数 ) | |
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distended
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| v.（使）膨胀，肿胀( distend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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promontories
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| n.岬，隆起，海角( promontory的名词复数 ) | |
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72
sperm
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| n.精子，精液 | |
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73
neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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descried
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| adj.被注意到的，被发现的，被看到的 | |
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harmonious
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| adj.和睦的，调和的，和谐的，协调的 | |
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concord
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| n.和谐；协调 | |
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77
hovering
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| 鸟( hover的现在分词 )； 靠近（某事物）； （人）徘徊； 犹豫 | |
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ply
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| v.(搬运工等)等候顾客，弯曲 | |
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79
tacks
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| 大头钉( tack的名词复数 )； 平头钉； 航向； 方法 | |
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80
prow
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| n.(飞机)机头，船头 | |
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81
pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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82
torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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83
tormented
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| 饱受折磨的 | |
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84
hoods
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| n.兜帽( hood的名词复数 )；头巾；（汽车、童车等的）折合式车篷；汽车发动机罩v.兜帽( hood的第三人称单数 )；头巾；（汽车、童车等的）折合式车篷；汽车发动机罩 | |
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85
mischief
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| n.损害，伤害，危害；恶作剧，捣蛋，胡闹 | |
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86
toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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87
demons
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| n.恶人( demon的名词复数 )；恶魔；精力过人的人；邪念 | |
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spectral
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| adj.幽灵的，鬼魂的 | |
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demonstration
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| n.表明，示范，论证，示威 | |
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90
concussions
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| n.震荡( concussion的名词复数 )；脑震荡；冲击；震动 | |
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91
eruption
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| n.火山爆发；（战争等）爆发；（疾病等）发作 | |
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aglow
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| adj.发亮的；发红的；adv.发亮地 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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posterity
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| n.后裔，子孙，后代 | |
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spine
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| n.脊柱，脊椎；(动植物的)刺；书脊 | |
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effaced
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| v.擦掉( efface的过去式和过去分词 )；抹去；超越；使黯然失色 | |
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nay
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| adv.不；n.反对票，投反对票者 | |
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99
bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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100
deceptions
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| 欺骗( deception的名词复数 )； 骗术，诡计 | |
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101
mirages
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| n.海市蜃楼，幻景( mirage的名词复数 ) | |
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102
meditative
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| adj.沉思的，冥想的 | |
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103
lesser
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| adj.次要的，较小的；adv.较小地，较少地 | |
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