Neither old “sacred” 25 himself, nor any of his helpers, knew the road which I meant to take from Nazareth to the Sea of Galilee and from thence to Jerusalem, so I was forced to add another to my party by hiring a guide. The associations of Nazareth, as well as my kind feeling towards the hospitable1 monks2, whose guest I had been, inclined me to set at naught3 the advice which I had received against employing Christians4. I accordingly engaged a lithe5, active young Nazarene, who was recommended to me by the monks, and who affected6 to be familiar with the line of country through which I intended to pass. My disregard of the popular prejudices against Christians was not justified7 in this particular instance by the result of my choice. This you will see by-and-by.
I passed by Cana and the house in which the water had been turned into wine; I came to the field in which our Saviour8 had rebuked9 the Scotch10 Sabbath-keepers of that period, by suffering His disciples11 to pluck corn on the Lord’s day; I rode over the ground on which the fainting multitude had been fed, and they showed me some massive fragments — the relics12, they said, of that wondrous13 banquet, now turned into stone. The petrifaction14 was most complete.
I ascended15 the height on which our Lord was standing16 when He wrought17 the miracle. The hill was lofty enough to show me the fairness of the land on all sides, but I have an ancient love for the mere18 features of a lake, and so forgetting all else when I reached the summit, I looked away eagerly to the eastward19. There she lay, the Sea of Galilee. Less stern than Wast Water, less fair than gentle Windermere, she had still the winning ways of an English lake; she caught from the smiling heavens unceasing light and changeful phases of beauty, and with all this brightness on her face, she yet clung so fondly to the dull he-looking mountain at her side, as though she would
“Soothe him with her finer fancies, Touch him with her lighter20 thought.” 26
If one might judge of men’s real thoughts by their writings, it would seem that there are people who can visit an interesting locality and follow up continuously the exact train of thought that ought to be suggested by the historical associations of the place. A person of this sort can go to Athens and think of nothing later than the age of Pericles; can live with the Scipios as long as he stays in Rome; can go up in a balloon, and think how resplendently in former times the now vacant and desolate21 air was peopled with angels, how prettily22 it was crossed at intervals23 by the rounds of Jacob’s ladder! I don’t possess this power at all; it is only by snatches, and for few moments together, that I can really associate a place with its proper history.
“There at Tiberias, and along this western shore towards the north, and upon the bosom24 too of the lake, our Saviour and His disciples — “ away flew those recollections, and my mind strained eastward, because that that farthest shore was the end of the world that belongs to man the dweller25, the beginning of the other and veiled world that is held by the strange race, whose life (like the pastime of Satan) is a “going to and fro upon the face of the earth.” From those grey hills right away to the gates of Bagdad stretched forth26 the mysterious “desert” — not a pale, void, sandy tract27, but a land abounding28 in rich pastures, a land without cities or towns, without any “respectable” people or any “respectable” things, yet yielding its eighty thousand cavalry29 to the beck of a few old men. But once more — “Tiberias — the plain of Gennesareth — the very earth on which I stood — that the deep low tones of the Saviour’s voice should have gone forth into eternity30 from out of the midst of these hills and these valleys!” — Ay, ay, but yet again the calm face of the lake was uplifted, and smiled upon my eyes with such familiar gaze, that the “deep low tones” were hushed, the listening multitudes all passed away, and instead there came to me a dear old memory from over the seas in England, a memory sweeter than Gospel to that poor wilful31 mortal, me.
I went to Tiberias, and soon got afloat upon the water. In the evening I took up my quarters in the Catholic church, and the building being large enough, the whole of my party were admitted to the benefit of the same shelter. With portmanteaus and carpet bags, and books and maps, and fragrant32 tea, Mysseri soon made me a home on the southern side of the church. One of old Shereef’s helpers was an enthusiastic Catholic, and was greatly delighted at having so sacred a lodging33. He lit up the altar with a number of tapers34, and when his preparations were complete, he began to perform his orisons in the strangest manner imaginable. His lips muttered the prayers of the Latin Church, but he bowed himself down and laid his forehead to the stones beneath him after the manner of a Mussulman. The universal aptness of a religious system for all stages of civilisation35, and for all sorts and conditions of men, well befits its claim of divine origin. She is of all nations, and of all times, that wonderful Church of Rome!
Tiberias is one of the four holy cities, 27 according to the Talmud, and it is from this place, or the immediate36 neighbourhood of it, that the Messiah is to arise.
Except at Jerusalem, never think of attempting to sleep in a “holy city.” Old Jews from all parts of the world go to lay their bones upon the sacred soil, and as these people never return to their homes, it follows that any domestic vermin which they may bring with them are likely to become permanently37 resident, so that the population is continually increasing. No recent census38 had been taken when I was at Tiberias, but I know that the congregation of fleas39 which attended at my church alone must have been something enormous. It was a carnal, self-seeking congregation, wholly inattentive to the service which was going on, and devoted41 to the one object of having my blood. The fleas of all nations were there. The smug, steady, importunate42 flea40 from Holywell Street; the pert, jumping puce from hungry France, the wary43, watchful44 pulce with his poisoned stiletto; the vengeful pulga of Castile with his ugly knife; the German floh with his knife and fork, insatiate, not rising from table; whole swarms45 from all the Russias, and Asiatic hordes46 unnumbered — all these were there, and all rejoiced in one great international feast. I could no more defend myself against my enemies than if I had been pain a discretion47 in the hands of a French patriot48, or English gold in the claws of a Pennsylvanian Quaker. After passing a night like this you are glad to pick up the wretched remains49 of your body long, long before morning dawns. Your skin is scorched50, your temples throb51, your lips feel withered52 and dried, your burning eyeballs are screwed inwards against the brain. You have no hope but only in the saddle and the freshness of the morning air.
1 hospitable | |
adj.好客的;宽容的;有利的,适宜的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
2 monks | |
n.修道士,僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
3 naught | |
n.无,零 [=nought] | |
参考例句: |
|
|
4 Christians | |
n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
5 lithe | |
adj.(指人、身体)柔软的,易弯的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
6 affected | |
adj.不自然的,假装的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
7 justified | |
a.正当的,有理的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
8 saviour | |
n.拯救者,救星 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
9 rebuked | |
责难或指责( rebuke的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
10 scotch | |
n.伤口,刻痕;苏格兰威士忌酒;v.粉碎,消灭,阻止;adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
11 disciples | |
n.信徒( disciple的名词复数 );门徒;耶稣的信徒;(尤指)耶稣十二门徒之一 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
12 relics | |
[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
13 wondrous | |
adj.令人惊奇的,奇妙的;adv.惊人地;异乎寻常地;令人惊叹地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
14 petrifaction | |
n.石化,化石;吓呆;惊呆 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
15 ascended | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
16 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
17 wrought | |
v.引起;以…原料制作;运转;adj.制造的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
18 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
19 eastward | |
adv.向东;adj.向东的;n.东方,东部 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
20 lighter | |
n.打火机,点火器;驳船;v.用驳船运送;light的比较级 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
21 desolate | |
adj.荒凉的,荒芜的;孤独的,凄凉的;v.使荒芜,使孤寂 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
22 prettily | |
adv.优美地;可爱地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
23 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
24 bosom | |
n.胸,胸部;胸怀;内心;adj.亲密的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
25 dweller | |
n.居住者,住客 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
26 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
27 tract | |
n.传单,小册子,大片(土地或森林) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
28 abounding | |
adj.丰富的,大量的v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的现在分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
29 cavalry | |
n.骑兵;轻装甲部队 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
30 eternity | |
n.不朽,来世;永恒,无穷 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
31 wilful | |
adj.任性的,故意的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
32 fragrant | |
adj.芬香的,馥郁的,愉快的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
33 lodging | |
n.寄宿,住所;(大学生的)校外宿舍 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
34 tapers | |
(长形物体的)逐渐变窄( taper的名词复数 ); 微弱的光; 极细的蜡烛 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
35 civilisation | |
n.文明,文化,开化,教化 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
36 immediate | |
adj.立即的;直接的,最接近的;紧靠的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
37 permanently | |
adv.永恒地,永久地,固定不变地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
38 census | |
n.(官方的)人口调查,人口普查 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
39 fleas | |
n.跳蚤( flea的名词复数 );爱财如命;没好气地(拒绝某人的要求) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
40 flea | |
n.跳蚤 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
41 devoted | |
adj.忠诚的,忠实的,热心的,献身于...的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
42 importunate | |
adj.强求的;纠缠不休的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
43 wary | |
adj.谨慎的,机警的,小心的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
44 watchful | |
adj.注意的,警惕的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
45 swarms | |
蜂群,一大群( swarm的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
46 hordes | |
n.移动着的一大群( horde的名词复数 );部落 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
47 discretion | |
n.谨慎;随意处理 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
48 patriot | |
n.爱国者,爱国主义者 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
49 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
50 scorched | |
烧焦,烤焦( scorch的过去式和过去分词 ); 使(植物)枯萎,把…晒枯; 高速行驶; 枯焦 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
51 throb | |
v.震颤,颤动;(急速强烈地)跳动,搏动 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
52 withered | |
adj. 枯萎的,干瘪的,(人身体的部分器官)因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
欢迎访问英文小说网 |