“The ruins of Baalbec!” Shall I scatter1 the vague, solemn thoughts and all the airy phantasies which gather together when once those words are spoken, that I may give you instead tall columns and measurements true, and phrases built with ink? No, no; the glorious sounds shall still float on as of yore, and still hold fast upon your brain with their own dim and infinite meaning.
Come! Baalbec is over; I got “rather well” out of that.
The path by which I crossed the Lebanon is like, I think, in its features to one which you must know, namely, that of the Foorca in the Bernese Oberland. For a great part of the way I toiled2 rather painfully through the dazzling snow, but the labour of ascending3 added to the excitement with which I looked for the summit of the pass. The time came. There was a minute in the which I saw nothing but the steep, white shoulder of the mountain, and there was another minute, and that the next, which showed me a nether4 heaven of fleecy clouds that floated along far down in the air beneath me, and showed me beyond the breadth of all Syria west of the Lebanon. But chiefly I clung with my eyes to the dim, steadfast5 line of the sea which closed my utmost view. I had grown well used of late to the people and the scenes of forlorn Asia — well used to tombs and ruins, to silent cities and deserted6 plains, to tranquil7 men and women sadly veiled; and now that I saw the even plain of the sea, I leapt with an easy leap to its yonder shores, and saw all the kingdoms of the West in that fair path that could lead me from out of this silent land straight on into shrill8 Marseilles, or round by the pillars of Hercules to the crash and roar of London. My place upon this dividing barrier was as a man’s puzzling station in eternity9, between the birthless past and the future that has no end. Behind me I left an old, decrepit10 world; religions dead and dying; calm tyrannies expiring in silence; women hushed and swathed, and turned into waxen dolls; love flown, and in its stead mere12 royal and “paradise” pleasures. Before me there waited glad bustle13 and strife14; love itself, an emulous game; religion, a cause and a controversy15, well smitten16 and well defended; men governed by reasons and suasion of speech; wheels going, steam buzzing — a mortal race, and a slashing17 pace, and the devil taking the hindmost — taking ME, by Jove (for that was my inner care), if I lingered too long upon the difficult pass that leads from thought to action.
I descended19 and went towards the west.
The group of cedars20 remaining on this part of the Lebanon is held sacred by the Greek Church on account of a prevailing22 notion that the trees were standing23 at a time when the temple of Jerusalem was built. They occupy three or four acres on the mountain’s side, and many of them are gnarled in a way that implies great age, but except these signs I saw nothing in their appearance or conduct that tended to prove them contemporaries of the cedars employed in Solomon’s Temple. The final cause to which these aged24 survivors25 owed their preservation26 was explained to me in the evening by a glorious old fellow (a Christian27 chief), who made me welcome in the valley of Eden. In ancient times the whole range of the Lebanon had been covered with cedars, and as the fertile plains beneath became more and more infested28 by government officers and tyrants29 of high and low degree, the people by degrees abandoned them and flocked to the rugged30 mountains, which were less accessible to their indolent oppressors. The cedar21 forests gradually shrank under the axe11 of the encroaching multitudes, and seemed at last to be on the point of disappearing entirely31, when an aged chief who ruled in this district, and who had witnessed the great change effected even in his own lifetime, chose to say that some sign or memorial should be left of the vast woods with which the mountains had formerly32 been clad, and commanded accordingly that this group of trees (which was probably situated33 at the highest point to which the forest had reached) should remain untouched. The chief, it seems, was not moved by the notion I have mentioned as prevailing in the Greek Church, but rather by some sentiment of veneration34 for a great natural feature — sentiment akin18, perhaps, to that old and earthborn religion, which made men bow down to creation before they had yet learnt how to know and worship the Creator.
The chief of the valley in which I passed the night was a man of large possessions, and he entertained me very sumptuously35. He was highly intelligent, and had had the sagacity to foresee that Europe would intervene authoritatively36 in the affairs of Syria. Bearing this idea in mind, and with a view to give his son an advantageous37 start in the ambitious career for which he was destined38, he had hired for him a teacher of the Italian language, the only accessible European tongue. The tutor, however, who was a native of Syria, either did not know or did not choose to teach the European forms of address, but contented39 himself with instructing his pupil in the mere language of Italy. This circumstance gave me an opportunity (the only one I ever had, or was likely to have46) of hearing the phrases of Oriental courtesy in an European tongue. The boy was about twelve or thirteen years old, and having the advantage of being able to speak to me without the aid of an interpreter, he took a prominent part in doing the honours of his father’s house. He went through his duties with untiring assiduity, and with a kind of gracefulness40, which by mere description can scarcely be made intelligible41 to those who are unacquainted with the manners of the Asiatics. The boy’s address resembled a little that of a highly polished and insinuating42 Roman Catholic priest, but had more of girlish gentleness. It was strange to hear him gravely and slowly enunciating the common and extravagant43 compliments of the East in good Italian, and in soft, persuasive44 tones. I recollect45 that I was particularly amused at the gracious obstinacy46 with which he maintained that the house in which I was so hospitably47 entertained belonged not to his father, but to me. To say this once was only to use the common form of speech, signifying no more than our sweet word “welcome,” but the amusing part of the matter was that, whenever in the course of conversation I happened to speak of his father’s house or the surrounding domain48, the boy invariably interfered49 to correct my pretended mistake, and to assure me once again with a gentle decisiveness of manner that the whole property was really and exclusively mine, and that his father had not the most distant pretensions50 to its ownership.
I received from my host much, and (as I now know) most true, information respecting the people of the mountains, and their power of resisting Mehemet Ali. The chief gave me very plainly to understand that the mountaineers, being dependent upon others for bread and gunpowder51 (the two great necessaries of martial52 life), could not long hold out against a power which occupied the plains and commanded the sea; but he also assured me, and that very significantly, that if this source of weakness were provided against, THE MOUNTAINEERS WERE TO BE DEPENDED UPON; he told me that in ten or fifteen days the chiefs could bring together some fifty thousand fighting men.
1 scatter | |
vt.撒,驱散,散开;散布/播;vi.分散,消散 | |
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2 toiled | |
长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的过去式和过去分词 ); 艰难缓慢地移动,跋涉 | |
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3 ascending | |
adj.上升的,向上的 | |
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4 nether | |
adj.下部的,下面的;n.阴间;下层社会 | |
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5 steadfast | |
adj.固定的,不变的,不动摇的;忠实的;坚贞不移的 | |
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6 deserted | |
adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
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7 tranquil | |
adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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8 shrill | |
adj.尖声的;刺耳的;v尖叫 | |
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9 eternity | |
n.不朽,来世;永恒,无穷 | |
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10 decrepit | |
adj.衰老的,破旧的 | |
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11 axe | |
n.斧子;v.用斧头砍,削减 | |
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12 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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13 bustle | |
v.喧扰地忙乱,匆忙,奔忙;n.忙碌;喧闹 | |
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14 strife | |
n.争吵,冲突,倾轧,竞争 | |
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15 controversy | |
n.争论,辩论,争吵 | |
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16 smitten | |
猛打,重击,打击( smite的过去分词 ) | |
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17 slashing | |
adj.尖锐的;苛刻的;鲜明的;乱砍的v.挥砍( slash的现在分词 );鞭打;割破;削减 | |
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18 akin | |
adj.同族的,类似的 | |
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19 descended | |
a.为...后裔的,出身于...的 | |
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20 cedars | |
雪松,西洋杉( cedar的名词复数 ) | |
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21 cedar | |
n.雪松,香柏(木) | |
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22 prevailing | |
adj.盛行的;占优势的;主要的 | |
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23 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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24 aged | |
adj.年老的,陈年的 | |
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25 survivors | |
幸存者,残存者,生还者( survivor的名词复数 ) | |
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26 preservation | |
n.保护,维护,保存,保留,保持 | |
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27 Christian | |
adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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28 infested | |
adj.为患的,大批滋生的(常与with搭配)v.害虫、野兽大批出没于( infest的过去式和过去分词 );遍布于 | |
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29 tyrants | |
专制统治者( tyrant的名词复数 ); 暴君似的人; (古希腊的)僭主; 严酷的事物 | |
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30 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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31 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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32 formerly | |
adv.从前,以前 | |
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33 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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34 veneration | |
n.尊敬,崇拜 | |
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35 sumptuously | |
奢侈地,豪华地 | |
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36 authoritatively | |
命令式地,有权威地,可信地 | |
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37 advantageous | |
adj.有利的;有帮助的 | |
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38 destined | |
adj.命中注定的;(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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39 contented | |
adj.满意的,安心的,知足的 | |
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40 gracefulness | |
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41 intelligible | |
adj.可理解的,明白易懂的,清楚的 | |
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42 insinuating | |
adj.曲意巴结的,暗示的v.暗示( insinuate的现在分词 );巧妙或迂回地潜入;(使)缓慢进入;慢慢伸入 | |
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43 extravagant | |
adj.奢侈的;过分的;(言行等)放肆的 | |
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44 persuasive | |
adj.有说服力的,能说得使人相信的 | |
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45 recollect | |
v.回忆,想起,记起,忆起,记得 | |
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46 obstinacy | |
n.顽固;(病痛等)难治 | |
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47 hospitably | |
亲切地,招待周到地,善于款待地 | |
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48 domain | |
n.(活动等)领域,范围;领地,势力范围 | |
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49 interfered | |
v.干预( interfere的过去式和过去分词 );调停;妨碍;干涉 | |
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50 pretensions | |
自称( pretension的名词复数 ); 自命不凡; 要求; 权力 | |
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51 gunpowder | |
n.火药 | |
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52 martial | |
adj.战争的,军事的,尚武的,威武的 | |
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