July 6. — BEING anxious to pursue my explorations, and unwilling7 to lose another day solely8 for the purpose of receiving my letters, I sent down my overseer to arrange about getting our stores up from the vessel, which was about fourteen miles away, and to request the master to await my return from the north, and in the interval9 employ himself in surveying and sounding some salt water inlets, we had seen on the eastern shores of the gulf10 in our route up under Flinders range.
Having made all necessary arrangements and wished Mr. Scott good bye, I set off on horseback with the eldest11 of my native boys, taking a pack horse to carry our provisions, and some oats for the horses. After rounding a projecting corner of the range we passed Mount Arden, still traversing open plains of great extent, and very stony12. In some of these plains we found large puddles14 of water much discoloured by the soil, so that it was evident there had been heavy rains in this direction, though we had none to the southward.
After travelling twenty-four miles we came to a large watercourse winding15 from Flinders range through the plains, with its direction distinctly marked out by the numerous gum-trees upon its banks. This was the “salt watercourse” of my former journeys so called from the large reaches of salt water in its bed a mile or two among the hills. By digging in the gravelly bed of the channel, where the natives had scooped16 a small hole, we got some tolerable water, and were enabled to give as much as they required to our horses, but it was a slow and tedious operation. We could get very little out at once, and had to give it to them to drink in the black boy’s duck frock, which answered the purpose of a bucket amazingly well.
There was not a blade of grass, or anything that the horses could eat near this creek17, so I was obliged to tie them up for the night, after giving to each a feed of oats.
July 7. — Towards morning several showers of rain fell, and I found that I had got a severe attack of rheumatism18, which proved both troublesome and painful. Pushing on for ten miles we reached the height standing19 out from the main range which Colonel Gawler named Mount Eyre, from its having been the limit of my first journey to the north in May 1839. This little hill is somewhat detached, of considerable elevation20, and with a bold rocky overhanging summit to the southward. Having clambered to the top of it, I had an extensive view, and took several bearings.
The region before us appeared to consist of a low sandy country without either trees or shrubs22, save a few stunted23 bushes. On the east this was backed by high rugged24 ranges, very barren in appearance, and extending northward25 as far as the eye could reach, beyond this level country to the West, and stretching far to the north-west, appeared a broad glittering stripe, looking like water, and constituting the bed of Lake Torrens. The lake appeared to be about twenty-five miles off, and of considerable breadth; but at so great distance, it was impossible to say whether there was actually any water in it or not.
Having completed my observations we descended26 again to the plains steering27 north-west for the lake. At two miles from Mount Eyre we found a puddle13 of water in the midst of the plains, and halted at it for the night. Our horses had good grass, but would not touch the water, which was extremely thick and muddy. Upon trying it ourselves we found it was not usable, even after it had been strained twice through a handkerchief, whilst boiling only thickened it; it was a deep red colour, from the soil, and was certainly an extraordinary and unpalatable mixture.
July 8. — Our horses having strayed this morning I sent the native boy to look for them, but as he did not return in a reasonable time, I got anxious and went after him myself, leaving the saddles and provisions at our sleeping place. In about four miles I met the boy returning with the runaways28, which had rambled29 for several miles, though they had abundance of good feed around the camp; fortunately we found every thing safe when we got back, but if any natives had accidentally passed that way we should probably have lost everything, and been left in very awkward predicament.
This is a risk I have frequently been obliged to incur30, and is one of the inconveniences resulting from so small a number as two travelling alone; it it is not always practicable from want of grass to tether the horses, and frequently when they are tethered the ropes break, and occasion the necessity of both individuals leaving the encampment to search for them at the same time.
Moving on to the N. W. by N. we passed over heavy sandy ridges32, with barren red plains between, and in one of the latter we found a puddle of rain water, this upon tasting. I found to be rather saline from the nature of the soil upon which it lay, the horses, however, drank it readily, and we put some in a small keg for ourselves. The only vegetation to be seen consisted of a few small stunted trees and shrubs, and even these as we approached the vicinity of the lake disappeared altogether, and gave place to Salsolaceous plants, the country being open and barren in the extreme.
I found Lake Torrens completely girded by a steep sandy ridge31, exactly like the sandy ridges bounding the sea shore, no rocks or stones were visible any where, but many saline coasts peeped out in the outer ridge, and upon descending33 westerly to its basin, I found the dry bed of the lake coated completely over with a crust of salt, forming one unbroken sheet of pure white, and glittering brilliantly in the sun. On stepping upon this I found that it yielded to the foot, and that below the surface the bed of the lake consisted of a soft mud, and the further we advanced to the westward34 the more boggy35 it got, so that at last it became quite impossible to proceed, and I was obliged to return to the outer margin36 of the lake without ascertaining38 whether there was water on the surface of its bed further west or not.
The extraordinary deception caused by mirage39 and refraction, arising from the state of the atmosphere in these regions, makes it almost impossible to believe the evidence of one’s own eyesight; but as far as I could judge under these circumstances, it appeared to me that there was water in the bed of the lake at a distance of four or five miles from where I was, and at this point Lake Torrens was about fifteen or twenty miles across, having high land bounding it to the west, seemingly a continuation of the table land at the head of Spencer’s gulf on its western side.
Foiled in the hope of reaching the water, I stood gazing on the dismal40 prospect41 before me with feelings of chagrin42 and gloom. I can hardly say I felt disappointed, for my expectations in this quarter had never been sanguine43; but I could not view unmoved, a scene which from its character and extent, I well knew must exercise a great influence over my future plans and hopes: the vast area of the lake was before me interminable as far as the eye could see to the northward, and the country upon its shore, was desolate44 and forbidding.
It was evident, that I could never hope to take my party across the lake, and it was equally evident, that I should not be able to travel around its shores, from the total absence of all fresh water, grass, or wood, whilst the very saline nature of the soil in the surrounding country, made even the rain water salt, after lying for an hour or two upon the ground. My only chance of success now lay in the non-termination of Flinders range, and in the prospect it held out to me, that by continuing our course along it we might be able to procure45 grass and water in its recesses46, until we were either taken beyond Lake Torrens, or led to some practicable opening to the north.
With a heavy heart I turned towards the mountains, and steering N. E. for ten miles, halted at dark, where there was nothing for our horses to eat or drink, and we were consequently obliged to tie them up for the night. We had still a few oats left and gave each horse three pints47. A short time before encamping, I had observed that Lake Torrens was trending more to the eastward48, and that when we halted, it was not at any very great distance from us.
July 9. — One of our horses having got loose last night, pulled the cork49 out of the keg in which was our small stock of the dirty brackish50 water we had found yesterday, and rolling the keg over, destroyed its contents; we were thus deprived of our breakfasts, and consequently had but little delay in starting. I intended to push on steadily51 for the hills, but after travelling six miles came to a puddle in the plains, with tolerable grass around, and at this I halted for the day, to rest the horses. Our latitude52 was 31 degrees 25 minutes S. by an altitude of Arcturus, Mount Eyre then bearing S. 7 degrees E.
July 10. — Our horses being much recruited I altered our course to-day to N. 5 degrees E. being the bearing of the most distant range to the northward, (subsequently named Mount Deception). We passed for the first ten miles through an open barren country, but found a puddle at which we watered our horses, and refilled the keg; we then entered heavy ridges of dense53 red sand lying nearly north and south, and having small barren plains between.
There were a few stunted bushes upon the ridges and occasionally some small straggling pines. Lake Torrens still trended easterly, being occasionally seen from, and sometimes approaching near to our track.
Emerging from the sandy ridges we again entered upon vast level plains covered with rhagodia. In the midst of these we came to the bed of a large dry watercourse, having good grass about it, but containing no water. I halted here for the day as our horses were not very thirsty.
Upon examining the bed of the watercourse, I found traces of a rather recent and high flood; much drift being still left upon the bushes where it had been swept by the torrent54; I could, however, find no water anywhere.
A great many emus were seen during our ride, and I wounded one with my rifle, but did not get it. We found to-day a description of flower, which I had not seen before, white, and sweetly scented55 like the hawthorn56, growing upon a low prickly bush near the watercourse.
July 11. — To-day I left our course and rambled up the watercourse to examine its character and search for water, which however I could not find in its channel anywhere. Traces of natives were numerous and recent all the way as we went, till at last we came to where they had encamped the previous night, and where they had left a fire still fresh and burning.
Proceeding57 onwards we came upon a single native, a female, young, but miserably58 thin and squalid, fit emblem59 of the sterility60 of the country. We could gain no information from her, she was so much alarmed, but not long after parting with her we came to a puddle of water in the plains, and encamped for the night. Our stage had been a tortuous61, but not a long one, and we halted early in the day, the latitude was 30 degrees 58 minutes S. by an altitude of the sun at noon.
After taking some refreshment62, I walked to a rise about three miles off at N. 40 degrees E. from which I took several bearings, and among them I set Mount Deception at N. 25 degrees W., I then examined several of the gorges63 between the front hills, where the banks were broken away, and to my great dismay found in all of them salt mixed with the sand, the clay, and even the rocks; whilst in the bed of the watercourse, the salt water tea-tree was making its appearance, a shrub21 I had never before seen under Flinders range, and one which never grows where the soil is not of a very saline nature, and generally only where the water is too brackish for use.
The beds of the watercourses were in some places quite white and glazed64 with encrustations of salt, where the rains had lodged65, and the water had evaporated. Some of the cliffs which I examined presented sections of 40 and 50 feet perpendicular66 height, in which layers of salt were embedded67 from the very top to the bottom.
In such a country, what accommodation could I expect, or what hopes could I entertain for the future, when the very water shed from the clouds would not be drinkable after remaining a few hours on the ground? Whichever way I turned myself, to the West, to the East, or the North, nothing but difficulties met my view.
In one direction was an impracticable lake, skirted by heavy and scrubby sand ridges; in another, a desert of bare and barren plains; and in a third, a range of inhospitable rocks. The very stones lying upon the hills looked like the scorched68 and withered69 scoria of a volcanic70 region; and even the natives, judging from the specimen71 I had seen to-day, partook of the general misery72 and wretchedness of the place.
My heart sank within me when I reflected upon the gradual but too obvious change that had taken place in the character of the country for the worse, and when I considered that for some days past we had been entirely73 dependent for our supply of water upon the little puddles that had been left on the plains by the rain, and which two or three more days would completely dry up. Under circumstances so unpropitious, I had many misgivings74, and the contemplation of our future prospect became a subject of painful anxiety.
July 12. — We moved away early, steering for Mount Deception. Near its base, and emanating75 from it, we crossed the dry bed of a very large watercourse, more resembling that of a river in character, its channel being wide, deep, and well-defined, and lined with the salt-water tea-tree; whilst its course was marked by very large, green looking gum-trees, the bed consisted of an earthy, micaceous76 slate77 of a reddish colour, and in very minute particles, almost in some places as fine as sand, but we could find no water in it anywhere.
The range in which this watercourse has its source, is of the same slaty78 rock, and very rugged; it could not be less than 3,000 feet in elevation, and its summit was only attainable79 by winding along the steep and stony ridges that led round the deep gorges and ravines by which it was surrounded.
From the top the view was extensive and unsatisfactory. Lake Torrens appearing as large and mysterious as ever, and bearing in its most northerly extreme visible W. 22 degrees N. To the north was a low level cheerless waste, and to the east Flinders range trending more easterly, and then sweeping80 back to N. 28 degrees W. but its appearance seemed to be changing and its character altering; the ranges struck me as being more separated by ridges, with barren flats and valleys between, among which winding to the N. W. were many large and deep watercourses, but which when traced up, often for many miles, I found to emanate81 from gorges of the hills, and to have neither water nor springs in them.
I had fully82 calculated upon finding permanent water at this very high range, and was proportionally disappointed at not succeeding, especially after having toiled84 to the summit, and tired both myself and horses in tracing up its watercourses. There was now no other alternative left me, than to make back for the hills to the eastward, in the hope of being more fortunate there. I had only found permanent water once, (at Salt watercourse) since I left my party, having depended entirely upon puddles of rain water for subsistence; but it now became imperative85 on me to turn my attention exclusively to this subject, not only to enable me to bring up my men, but to secure the possibility of my own return, as every day that passed dried up more and more the small puddles I had found in the plains.
Descending Mount Deception, we travelled five miles upon a S. E. course, and encamped upon a small dry watercourse for the night, with good grass for our horses, but without water.
July 13. — Bending our steps backwards86, to search for water in the eastern hills, we were lucky enough to fall in with a puddle in the plains, at which we watered our horses, and again proceeded.
Selecting one of the larger watercourses running out from the hills, we traced it up a considerable distance, examining all its minor87 branches carefully, and sparing no pains in seeking a permanent spring of water; the channel, however, gradually diminished in size, as we occasionally passed the junctions89 of small branches from the various gorges; the gum-trees on its course were either dead or dying; the hills, which at a distance had appeared very rugged and lofty, upon a nearer approach turned out to be mere90 detached eminences91 of moderate elevation, covered with loose stones, but without the least sign of water.
About two o’clock, P.M. we passed a little grass, and as the day appeared likely to become rainy, I halted for the night. Leaving the native boy to hobble the horses, I took my gun and ascended92 one of the hills near me for a view. Lake Torrens was visible to the west, and Mount Deception to the N.W. but higher hills near me, shut out the view in every other direction. In descending, I followed a little rocky gully leading to the main watercourse, and to my surprise and joy, discovered a small but deep pool of water in a hole of the rock: upon sounding the depth, I found it would last us some time, and that I might safely bring on my party thus far, until I could look for some other point for a depot still farther north; the little channel where the water was, I named Depot Pool.
Regaining93 the camp, I immediately set to work with the native boy to construct a bough94 hut, as the weather looked very threatening. We had hardly completed it before the rain came down in torrents95, and water was soon laying every where in the ledges96 of rock in the bed of the watercourse. So little do we know what is before us, and so short a time is necessary to change the aspect of affairs, and frequently too, when we least expect it!
July 14. — Our hut not having been quite water-tight before the rain came, we got very wet during the night, and turned out early this morning to go and hunt for firewood to warm ourselves.
As the weather still continued rainy, I determined97 to give our horses a day’s rest, whilst I walked up the watercourse to examine it farther. I found the hills open a good deal more as I proceeded, with nice grassy valleys between; and the hills themselves, though high and steep, were rounded at the summits, and richly clothed with vegetation: among them numerous watercourses took their rise in the gorges, and generally these were well marked by gum-trees. Altogether it was a pretty and fertile spot, and though very hilly, would do well for stock, if permanent water could be found near. I was quite unsuccessful, however, in my search for this, and the native boy, whom I sent in the opposite direction, after my return, was equally unfortunate. Towards evening, one of the horses having broken his hobbles, and got alarmed, galloped98 off, taking the other with him. Tired and wet as I was, I was obliged to go after them, and it was some miles from the camp, before I could overtake and turn them back. Our latitude was 30 degrees 55 minutes S.
July 15. — This morning was misty99 and clondy, and dreadfully cold. We set off early and commenced tracing up and examining as many of the watercourses as we could; we did not, however, find permanent water.
Under one low ridge we met with what I took to be a small spring emanating from a limestone100 rock; but it was so small as to be quite useless to a party like mine, though the natives appeared frequently to have resorted to it. Finding the courses of the main channel become lost in its many branches, I ascended the dividing ridge, and crossed into the bed of another large watercourse, in which, after travelling but a short distance, I found a fine spring of running water among some very broken and precipitous ranges, which rose almost perpendicularly101 from the channel; in the latter, high ledges of a slaty rock stretched occasionally quite across its bed, making it both difficult and dangerous to get our horses along. In the vicinity of the water the grass was tolerably good, but the declivities upon which it principally grew, were steep and very stony.
Having hobbled the horses, I took my gun, and walked down the watercourse, to a place where it forms a junction88 with a larger one, but in neither could I find any more water. Upon my return, I found that the native boy had caught an opossum in one of the trees near, which proved a valuable addition to our scanty102 and unvaried fare. The latitude to-day was 30 degrees 51 minutes S.
Opossum-hunting at Gawler Plains
July 16. — Tracing down the watercourse we were encamped on, to the junction before mentioned, I steered103 a little more to the north, to ascend a high stony range, from which I hoped to obtain a view to the eastward; but after considerable toil83 in climbing, and dragging our horses over loose rolling stones, which put them constantly in danger of falling back, I was not rewarded for the trouble I had taken: the view to the east was quite shut out by high rugged ranges of ironstone and quartz104, whilst to the north, the hills appeared lower and more open.
It now became a matter of serious consideration, whether I should pursue my researches any farther at present. I was already about 120 miles away from my party, with barely provisions enough to last me back; and the country, in advance, appeared to be getting daily more difficult; added to this, the “Waterwitch” was waiting at the head of Spencer’s Gulf for my return.
After reflecting on my position, I decided105 to rejoin my party without delay; and descending the range to the S. E., I steered for a large watercourse we had crossed in the morning; intending to trace it up, for the purpose of examining its branches. The bed of this watercourse, at first, was very wide, and lined with gum-trees; but as I advanced, I found its channel became contracted, and very rocky, the gum-trees disappearing, and giving place to the salt-water tea-tree. By nightfall, I was unable to proceed any further, owing to the large stones and rocks that interposed themselves. Retracing106 my steps, therefore, for a mile or two, to a little grass I had observed as I passed by, I bivouacked for the night, being, as well as the horses, quite knocked up. The native boy, who accompanied me, was equally fatigued107; and we were both lame108 from walking across so rugged a country, over a great portion of which we found it quite impracticable to ride. Our stage could not have been less than twenty-five or twenty-six miles during the day, yet we had not met with a drop of water, even though we had high ranges, large watercourses, and huge gum-trees on every side of us. As usual, the traces of high floods were numerous; and the channels of these watercourses, confined as they are by precipitous ranges, must, at times, be filled by rapid and overwhelming torrents, which would collect there after heavy rains.
Some great progressive change appears to be taking place in the climate and seasons of this part of the country, as, in many of the watercourses, we found all the gum-trees either dying or dead, without any young trees growing up to replace them. The moisture which had promoted their growth, and brought them to maturity109, existed no longer; and in many places, only the wreck110 of noble trees remained to indicate to the traveller what once had been the character of this now arid111 region. In other watercourses the gum-trees were still green and flourishing, and of giant growth; but we were equally unable to discover water in these,5 as in those where the trees were decaying or withered.
5 We had no means with us of digging — possibly moisture existed
July 17. — To-day we returned to our temporary camp, tracing up various branches of the water-courses as we went along, but without finding water. Many of the ranges in our route consisted of masses of ironstone, apparently112 containing a very large proportion of metal. In one place, I found a mineral which I took to be tin ore; the loss, however, of all the geological specimens113 I collected, after their arrival in Adelaide, has unfortunately put it now beyond my power to test any of the rocks or minerals, about which I was doubtful. As we encamped early, and I was desirous of recruiting the horses, I employed myself in taking an observation for latitude, whilst the black boy went out to look for an opossum. He succeeded in bringing in a fine large one, which formed a welcome addition to our meagre fare. The nights were still very frosty.
below the surface where the trees were so large and green.
July 18. — In travelling to “Depot Pool,” the native boy caught another opossum, and we again halted early in the day for the sake of resting the horses.
July 19. — Concealing114 among some rocks every thing we did not absolutely require, we descended towards the plains, searching as we went, for the most favourable115 line of road to them, for the drays, but at best the country was very rough and stony.
After clearing the hills, we made a stage of twenty-eight miles along the plains running under Flinders range, and at night encamped upon a channel coming out of it, where we obtained water, but very little grass for our horses.
July 20. — To-day I kept behind some of the low front hills, passing through some extensive valleys between them and the main range; and as I found abundance of water lying in pools upon the plains, I did not make for the hills at all.
Before sunset, I got a shot at a kangaroo with my rifle, which, though severely116 wounded, gave me a long chase before I could capture it; this furnished us with a welcome and luxurious117 repast. We had been so long living upon nothing but the bush baked bread, called damper (so named, I imagine, from its heavy, sodden118 character), with the exception of the one or two occasions upon which the native boy had added an opossum to our fare, that we were delighted to obtain a supply of animal food for a change; and the boy, to shew how he appreciated our good luck, ate several pounds of it for his supper. Our horses were equally fortunate with ourselves, for we obtained both good grass and water for them.
July 21. — Taking with us the best part of what was left of the kangaroo, we crossed a stony ridge to the S. W., and at four miles struck a watercourse with a large pool of water in its bed, and well adapted for a halting place for the party on their route to the north: we had not seen this in our outward course, having kept further to the westward in the plains. From the water-hole, Mount Eyre bore W. 30 degrees S. distant five miles.
Upon leaving this pool I pushed on as rapidly as I could, being anxious to rejoin my party; and after a hard and fatiguing119 ride of forty miles, arrived at the depot under Mount Arden, late in the day, having been absent sixteen days. I had been anxiously expected, and was cordially welcomed by the whole party, who were getting sadly tired of inactivity, and especially by my young friend Mr. Scott, whose eager and ardent120 disposition121 rendered him quite uneasy under the confinement122 and restraint of a depot encampment; he would gladly have shared with me the difficulties and hazards of exploring the country in advance, but from the very embarrassing nature of the undertaking123, I did not think it right to take more than a single native with me, as every addition to the number of a party, on such occasions, only tends to increase the difficulty and anxiety of the task.
Having rested a little, and made innumerable inquiries124, I was very much gratified to find that the whole party were in good health, and that every thing had been conducted in a satisfactory manner during my absence. No one had been idle, and every thing that I could have wished, had been properly arranged. The stores had been safely brought up from the Waterwitch, including a barometer125 kindly126 sent by the Governor, and a large packet of English letters, at any time a highly valued prize, and not the less so now that they were received 200 miles in the interior, amidst the labours and anxieties of an exploring expedition.
During my absence all the harness, hobbles, tents, tarpaulins128, etc. had been fully repaired; and according to my instructions, a large deep hole had been dug in the slope of the hill, to bury a portion of the stores in, that if compelled by circumstances to return from the north, we might still have supplies to fall back upon. Mr. Scott had employed his time in collecting botanical and geological specimens, and had already made a very fair commencement for our collections in both these departments of science. He had also regularly kept the meteorological journal, registering the observations three times in each day.
July 22. — After breakfast I had all the stores reweighed, and examined the supplies sent us in the Waterwitch, which consisted chiefly of flour, biscuit, sugar, tea, salt pork, soap, tobacco, salt, canvas, etc. besides many little luxuries which the kindness of the Governor, and the consideration of our many friends had added to the list.
The men during my absence, having been living entirely upon salt pork, to economize129 the sheep, were glad to receive the kangaroo which I brought home with me.
Having inspected the stores, the whole party were put upon their travelling rations5, and the first week’s allowance was issued to each, consisting of ten pounds of meat, seven pounds of biscuit or flour, a quarter of a pound of tea, a pound and a half of sugar, a quarter of a pound of soap, and the same quantity of tobacco.
Provisions of different kinds were then weighed out, headed up in casks, and buried in the hole dug by the men during my absence, to wait our return, if ever it should be our lot to reach the place again. The remainder were all properly packed up, and the drays loaded and arranged for moving on.
After satisfactorily concluding all the preparations for leaving the depot, I employed myself busily in writing letters and despatches until a very late hour of the night, as it was the last opportunity I should have for a long time, of reporting our prospects130 and progress, or of thanking the Governor and our numerous friends, for the many attentions we had experienced.
I had hardly retired131 to rest before I was suddenly seized with a violent attack of illness, arising probably from cold and over-exertion, now that a return to my party had removed the stimulus132 to activity, and permitted a reaction in the system to take place.
July 23. — This morning I felt weak, and still very ill, and it was with great difficulty I could manage to close my letters, and give the necessary instructions to the overseer, whom I sent down to the head of Spencer’s Gulf, with orders to the master of the cutter to sail for Adelaide, and to report what he had seen at the salt inlets in the east side of Spencer’s Gulf, which I had directed him to examine in the boats whilst I was absent exploring to the north. His reply was, that there was water enough for a ship to lie within one mile of the shore, that there was a tolerable landing place, but that he had found no fresh water. The men were employed during the day making a new tarpaulin127 from the canvas sent up in the Waterwitch. The following is a copy of the Report sent to the Governor, and to the Chairman of the Committee for promoting the expedition.
“Depot, near Mount Arden, July 22nd, 1840.
“Sir, — I have the honour to acquaint you for the information of His Excellency the Governor, and of the colonists133 interested in the northern expedition, with the progress made up to the present date.
“I arrived here with my party all well, on the 3rd July instant, and on the 6th I proceeded, accompanied by one of my native boys, on horseback, to reconnoitre Lake Torrens and the country to the north of the depot, leaving the party in camp to rest the horses and enable the overseer to get up, from the head of Spencer’s Gulf, the supplies kindly sent by His Excellency the Governor in the Waterwitch — her arrival having been signalised the evening previous to my leaving. I arrived on the shores of Lake Torrens the third day after leaving the depot, and have ascertained134 that it is a basin of considerable magnitude, extending certainly over a space varying in width from 15 to 20 miles, and with a length of from 40 to 50, from its southern extremity135, to the most northerly part of it, visible from a high summit in Flinders range, (about ninety miles north of Mount Arden). The lake is girded with an outer ridge of sand, covered with salsolaceous plants, and with saline crusts, shewing above the ground at intervals136. Its waters appear to extend over a considerable surface, but they are, seemingly, shallow. I could not approach the water, from the soft nature of that part of its bed, which is uncovered, and which appeared to reach from three to four miles from the outer bank to the water’s edge. There can be no doubt, however, of its being very salt, as that portion of its bed which lay exposed to our view was thickly coated with pungent137 particles of salt. There were not any trees or shrubs of any kind near the lake where we made it, nor could either grass or fresh water be procured138 for our horses. Lake Torrens is bounded on its western side by high lands — apparently a continuation of the table land to the westward of the head of Spencer’s Gulf. — I should think that it must receive a considerable drainage from that quarter, as well as the whole of the waters falling from Flinders range to the eastward.
“From the very inhospitable nature of the country, around the lake, I could not examine it so carefully or so extensively as I could have wished. My time, too, being very limited, made me hurry away to the northward, to search for a place to which I might bring on my party, as the grass in the neighbourhood of the depot was very old, and much less abundant than on either of my former visits there. It became, therefore, imperative on me to remove the horses as speedily as possible. Should circumstances permit, I shall, however, endeavour to visit Lake Torrens again, on my return from the northern interior. After leaving the lake I spent many days in examining the country to the northward of our depot. Its character seemed to vary but little; barren sandy plains still formed the lower level, and the hills constituting the continuation of Flinders range were still composed of quartz and ironstone; they were, however, gradually becoming less elevated and more detached, with intervals of stony valleys between, and the whole country was, if possible, assuming a more barren aspect, while the springs, which had heretofore been numerous among the hills, were very few in number — difficult to find — and very far in amongst the ranges. After most anxious and laborious139 search, I at last succeeded in finding a place about ninety miles (of latitude) north of Mount Arden, to which I can remove my depot, and from which I can again penetrate140 more to the northward.
“After an absence of sixteen days I rejoined my party under Mount Arden on the evening of the 21st July, and found they had safely received all the supplies sent for our use by the Waterwitch. The latter has been detained until my return, for despatches, which I shall send down to-morrow, and on the 24th I intend to move on with my party to the new depot. I regret it is not in my power to afford more certain information as to the future prospects of the expedition, but where so little alteration141 has taken place, in the features of the country I have been examining, conjectures142 alone can anticipate what may be beyond. From the very difficult nature of the country we are advancing into, our further progress must necessarily be very slow for some time, but I still hope that by patience and perseverance143 we shall ultimately succeed in accomplishing the object of the expedition.
“I have the honour to be, Sir, “Your most obedient humble144 Servant, “EDWARD JOHN EYRE.”
“To the Chairman of the Committee of Colonists for promoting the Northern Expedition.”
* * *
“Depot, near Mount Arden, July 22nd, 1840.
“My Dear Sir, — I beg to enclose a copy of the report of our proceedings145 up to the present date, for the perusal146 of his Excellency the Governor. By it his Excellency will perceive that the very inhospitable nature of the country around Lake Torrens, added to my anxiety to remove our horses from the depot near Mount Arden, where there was but very little grass for them, prevented my devoting so much time to the examination of the lake and the country around it, as I should have wished; and I therefore intend, if possible, on my return, to investigate it more fully, being anxious to ascertain37, whether, as I suppose, there is a considerable drainage into it from the westward. The high land seen on its opposite side, appears to be a continuation of the table land, lying to the west of the head of Spencer’s Gulf; and though the fall of the country appears to be to the north, I begin to be of opinion now that it is not in reality. Lake Torrens is evidently the basin into which all the waters from Flinders range fall, and its extent is very considerable; in fact, where I last saw it to the north, it was impossible to say whether it terminated or not, from the very great distance it was off. The country lying between Flinders range on the one side, and the table land on the other, and north of Spencer’s Gulf, is of so low and so level a character that the eye alone is not a sufficient guide as to the direction in which the fall may be. On my previous visits, I felt convinced it was northerly, but I am now inclined to think that the drainage from Lake Torrens in seasons of wet, is to the south, into the head of the Gulf; and I can only account for there not being a larger connecting watercourse than the small shallow one found when crossing from Streaky Bay — and which I did not then imagine extended far above the head of the Gulf — by supposing that the seasons have so altered of late years that the overflow147 of the lake has never been sufficient to cause a run of water to the Gulf. Should my present supposition be correct, the idea of a northerly drainage is done away with, and we have yet to come to a “division of the waters.” My uncertainty148 on this most important point has made me most anxious to get my party removed to a place where they can remain until I can decide so interesting a point, and one on which our future prospects so much depend. The same causes that prevented my staying a little longer in the neighbourhood of the Lake have also prevented, as yet, my extending my researches to the north for more than about forty miles farther than I had been when last in this neighbourhood. The only change I observed, was the increasing barren appearance of the country — the decrease in elevation of the ranges — their becoming more detached, with sterile149 valleys between — and the general absence of springs; the rock of the higher ridges, which were very rugged and abrupt150, was still the same, quartz and ironstone, but much more of the latter than I had before seen, and, in some cases, with a very great proportion of metal to the stone. The lower ridges and steep banks, when washed away by the rains, presented great quantities of a very pungent salt to the eye of the observer, mixed with the clay and sand of which the banks were formed; and in this neighbourhood the watercourses were (though dry) all lined with the salt-water tea-tree — a shrub we had never before seen under Flinders range. My next push to the north will probably throw some light upon our future prospects, and I only regret it will not be in my power to communicate the intelligence. I intended to have sent his Excellency a rough sketch151 of my last route, but have not been able to get it ready in time, and I fear I have already detained the little cutter too long: during their detention152, I requested the master to examine some salt water inlets on the east side of Spencer’s Gulf, and he said he would, but I have not yet heard the result of his researches. Should he have found, a good landing-place for goods, it would be of much importance to the northern parts of the colony when they become stocked; and nearly all the country as far as the head of the Gulf is more or less adapted for grazing. Pray return my best thanks to his Excellency for the abundant supply of stores we have received by the Waterwitch — especially for the barometer, which has arrived quite safely. I shall take great care of it, and shall make observations, whenever practicable, three times a day — 8, a.m., noon, and 5, p.m. I only returned late last night, and have been so busy to-day preparing every thing for leaving the depot, that I have been obliged to put off my writing until night; and I am now acribbling in the tent, on my bed, with my young friend, Mr. Scott, fast asleep, and a cold bleak153 wind whistling through the place, so that I fear my writing will be scarcely legible. I send down the letters to the cutter in the morning, and intend to move on my party on the 24th. With kind remembrance to his Excellency, Mrs. Gawler, and family —
“Believe me, etc. “EDWARD JOHN EYRE. “G. Hall, Esq.”
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1
deception
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| n.欺骗，欺诈；骗局，诡计 | |
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2
grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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3
ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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depot
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| n.仓库，储藏处；公共汽车站；火车站 | |
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rations
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| 定量( ration的名词复数 )； 配给量； 正常量； 合理的量 | |
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6
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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7
unwilling
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| adj.不情愿的 | |
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solely
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| adv.仅仅，唯一地 | |
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9
interval
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| n.间隔，间距；幕间休息，中场休息 | |
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10
gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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eldest
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| adj.最年长的，最年老的 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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13
puddle
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| n.(雨)水坑，泥潭 | |
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14
puddles
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| n.水坑， （尤指道路上的）雨水坑( puddle的名词复数 ) | |
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15
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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16
scooped
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| v.抢先报道( scoop的过去式和过去分词 )；（敏捷地）抱起；抢先获得；用铲[勺]等挖（洞等） | |
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17
creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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18
rheumatism
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| n.风湿病 | |
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19
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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20
elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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21
shrub
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| n.灌木，灌木丛 | |
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shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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23
stunted
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| adj.矮小的；发育迟缓的 | |
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24
rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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25
northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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26
descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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27
steering
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| n.操舵装置 | |
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28
runaways
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| （轻而易举的）胜利( runaway的名词复数 ) | |
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29
rambled
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| （无目的地）漫游( ramble的过去式和过去分词 )； （喻）漫谈； 扯淡； 长篇大论 | |
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30
incur
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| vt.招致，蒙受，遭遇 | |
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31
ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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32
ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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33
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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34
westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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35
boggy
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| adj.沼泽多的 | |
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36
margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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37
ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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38
ascertaining
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的现在分词 ) | |
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39
mirage
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| n.海市蜃楼，幻景 | |
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40
dismal
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| adj.阴沉的，凄凉的，令人忧郁的，差劲的 | |
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41
prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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42
chagrin
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| n.懊恼；气愤；委屈 | |
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43
sanguine
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| adj.充满希望的，乐观的，血红色的 | |
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44
desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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45
procure
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| vt.获得，取得，促成；vi.拉皮条 | |
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46
recesses
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| n.壁凹( recess的名词复数 )；（工作或业务活动的）中止或暂停期间；学校的课间休息；某物内部的凹形空间v.把某物放在墙壁的凹处( recess的第三人称单数 )；将（墙）做成凹形，在（墙）上做壁龛；休息，休会，休庭 | |
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47
pints
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| n.品脱( pint的名词复数 )；一品脱啤酒 | |
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48
eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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49
cork
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| n.软木，软木塞 | |
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50
brackish
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| adj.混有盐的；咸的 | |
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51
steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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52
latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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53
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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54
torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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55
scented
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| adj.有香味的；洒香水的；有气味的v.嗅到(scent的过去分词) | |
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56
hawthorn
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| 山楂 | |
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57
proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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58
miserably
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| adv.痛苦地；悲惨地；糟糕地；极度地 | |
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59
emblem
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| n.象征，标志；徽章 | |
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60
sterility
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| n.不生育，不结果，贫瘠，消毒，无菌 | |
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61
tortuous
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| adj.弯弯曲曲的，蜿蜒的 | |
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62
refreshment
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| n.恢复，精神爽快，提神之事物；（复数）refreshments:点心，茶点 | |
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63
gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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64
glazed
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| adj.光滑的，像玻璃的；上过釉的；呆滞无神的v.装玻璃( glaze的过去式)；上釉于，上光；（目光）变得呆滞无神 | |
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65
lodged
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| v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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66
perpendicular
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| adj.垂直的，直立的；n.垂直线，垂直的位置 | |
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67
embedded
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| a.扎牢的 | |
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68
scorched
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| 烧焦，烤焦( scorch的过去式和过去分词 )； 使（植物）枯萎，把…晒枯； 高速行驶； 枯焦 | |
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69
withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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70
volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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71
specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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72
misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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73
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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74
misgivings
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| n.疑虑，担忧，害怕；疑虑，担心，恐惧( misgiving的名词复数 )；疑惧 | |
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75
emanating
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| v.从…处传出，传出( emanate的现在分词 )；产生，表现，显示 | |
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76
micaceous
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| adj.云母的，含云母的，云母状的 | |
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77
slate
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| n.板岩，石板，石片，石板色，候选人名单；adj.暗蓝灰色的，含板岩的；vt.用石板覆盖，痛打，提名，预订 | |
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78
slaty
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| 石板一样的，石板色的 | |
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79
attainable
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| a.可达到的，可获得的 | |
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80
sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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81
emanate
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| v.发自，来自，出自 | |
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82
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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83
toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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84
toiled
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| 长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的过去式和过去分词 )； 艰难缓慢地移动，跋涉 | |
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85
imperative
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| n.命令，需要；规则；祈使语气；adj.强制的；紧急的 | |
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86
backwards
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| adv.往回地，向原处，倒，相反，前后倒置地 | |
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87
minor
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| adj.较小(少)的，较次要的；n.辅修学科；vi.辅修 | |
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88
junction
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| n.连接，接合；交叉点，接合处，枢纽站 | |
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89
junctions
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| 联结点( junction的名词复数 )； 会合点； （公路或铁路的）交叉路口； （电缆等的）主结点 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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eminences
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| 卓越( eminence的名词复数 )； 著名； 高地； 山丘 | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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regaining
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| 复得( regain的现在分词 )； 赢回； 重回； 复至某地 | |
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bough
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| n.大树枝，主枝 | |
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torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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ledges
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| n.（墙壁，悬崖等）突出的狭长部分( ledge的名词复数 )；（平窄的）壁架；横档；（尤指）窗台 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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galloped
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| （使马）飞奔，奔驰( gallop的过去式和过去分词 )； 快速做[说]某事 | |
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misty
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| adj.雾蒙蒙的，有雾的 | |
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100
limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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101
perpendicularly
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| adv. 垂直地, 笔直地, 纵向地 | |
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102
scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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103
steered
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| v.驾驶( steer的过去式和过去分词 )；操纵；控制；引导 | |
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104
quartz
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| n.石英 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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106
retracing
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| v.折回( retrace的现在分词 )；回忆；回顾；追溯 | |
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fatigued
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| adj. 疲乏的 | |
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108
lame
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| adj.跛的，(辩解、论据等)无说服力的 | |
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maturity
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| n.成熟；完成；(支票、债券等)到期 | |
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wreck
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| n.失事，遇难；沉船；vt.(船等)失事，遇难 | |
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arid
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| adj.干旱的；(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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113
specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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114
concealing
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的现在分词 ) | |
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favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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118
sodden
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| adj.浑身湿透的；v.使浸透；使呆头呆脑 | |
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119
fatiguing
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| a.使人劳累的 | |
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120
ardent
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| adj.热情的，热烈的，强烈的，烈性的 | |
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121
disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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122
confinement
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| n.幽禁，拘留，监禁；分娩；限制，局限 | |
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123
undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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124
inquiries
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| n.调查( inquiry的名词复数 )；疑问；探究；打听 | |
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barometer
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| n.气压表，睛雨表，反应指标 | |
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126
kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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tarpaulin
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| n.涂油防水布，防水衣，防水帽 | |
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128
tarpaulins
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| n.防水帆布，防水帆布罩( tarpaulin的名词复数 ) | |
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129
economize
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| v.节约，节省 | |
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130
prospects
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| n.希望，前途(恒为复数) | |
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131
retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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132
stimulus
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| n.刺激，刺激物，促进因素，引起兴奋的事物 | |
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133
colonists
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| n.殖民地开拓者，移民，殖民地居民( colonist的名词复数 ) | |
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134
ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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extremity
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| n.末端，尽头；尽力；终极；极度 | |
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136
intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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137
pungent
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| adj.（气味、味道）刺激性的，辛辣的；尖锐的 | |
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138
procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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139
laborious
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| adj.吃力的，努力的，不流畅 | |
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140
penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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141
alteration
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| n.变更，改变；蚀变 | |
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142
conjectures
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| 推测，猜想( conjecture的名词复数 ) | |
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143
perseverance
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| n.坚持不懈，不屈不挠 | |
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144
humble
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| adj.谦卑的，恭顺的；地位低下的；v.降低，贬低 | |
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proceedings
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| n.进程，过程，议程；诉讼(程序)；公报 | |
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146
perusal
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| n.细读，熟读；目测 | |
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147
overflow
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| v.(使)外溢，(使)溢出；溢出，流出，漫出 | |
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148
uncertainty
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| n.易变，靠不住，不确知，不确定的事物 | |
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149
sterile
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| adj.不毛的，不孕的，无菌的，枯燥的，贫瘠的 | |
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150
abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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151
sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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152
detention
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| n.滞留，停留；拘留，扣留；(教育)留下 | |
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153
bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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