During the time that I had been occupied in conducting my division of the party from Baxter’s Range to Port Lincoln, the overseer had been engaged in guiding the other portion across to Streaky Bay, upon my former track from thence to Mount Arden, in September 1839. The following brief extracts from my Journal of that period, whilst crossing from Streaky Bay to Mount Arden, will convey an idea of the character of the country extending between these two points; and of the great difficulty, indeed almost the impossibility of forcing a passage, except immediately after the occurrence of heavy rains.
1839, Sept. 18. — We left the depot2 near Streaky Bay, at a course nearly due east, and passing through alternations of brush and of open grassy3 plains, upon the skirts of which grew a few casuarinae; halted after a stage of eighteen miles, at an opening in the brush, where we had good grass, but no water; we were consequently obliged to watch the horses during the night, to prevent their straying. From this camp Mount Hall bore S. 2 degrees E. and Mount Cooper S. E. the variation of the compass being 2 degrees 22 minutes E.
September 19. — Travelling east through the same kind of country for fifteen miles, we halted upon a high scrubby ridge4; having a few grassy openings at intervals5, and with large sheets of granite6 exposed in some parts of its surface. In the holes among these rocks we procured7 a supply of water that had been deposited by the late rains; but which a few warm days would have dried up. The latitude8 of the water was 32 degrees 48 minutes S. and from it Mount Hall bore S. 38 degrees W., Mount Cooper S. 15 degrees W. Before us to the north-east were visible many peaks of a range, with a high and broken outline, which I named the Gawler range, after His Excellency Colonel Gawler, the Governor of South Australia. One very high peak in this range I named Mount Sturt, after my friend Captain Sturt; it bore from our present camp E. 10 degrees N. and had been previously9 seen from the summit of Mount Hall.
September 20. — Our route to-day was through a perfect desert, very scrubby and stony10, with much prickly grass growing upon the sand ridges11, which alternated with the hard limestone12 flats; there were very few clear intervals of country upon our whole course; and for the last five miles the heavy sand and dense13 scrub made it very difficult to get on at all. After a long stage of twenty-five miles nearly due east, we halted at a high ridge similar to that upon which we encamped last night, with sheets of granite exposed on its surface, and rain water lodged14 in the hollows. The horses were all completely knocked up with the severe labour of this day’s stage; I ascertained15 the latitude of the camp to be 32 degrees 47 minutes 40 seconds S. and the variation of the compass which increased as we advanced to the eastward16, was now 4 degrees 12 minutes E. The Gawler range was now distinctly visible, extending from N. 15 degrees W. to N. 65 degrees E. and presenting the broken and picturesque17 outline of a vast mountain mass rising abruptly18 out of the low scrubby country around. The principal elevations20 in this extensive range, could not be less than two thousand feet; and they appeared to increase in height as the range trended to the north-west. To the eastward the ranges decreased somewhat in elevation19, but were still very lofty.
September 21. — We had another long stage to-day of twenty miles, over, if possible, a worse road than yesterday, no intermission whatever of the heavy steep sandy ridges and dense eucalyptus21 scrub; the horses were dreadfully jaded23, and we were obliged to relieve them by yoking24 up all the riding horses that would draw. Even with this aid we did not get the journey over until an hour and a half after dark. During the day our course had been more to the northward25 of east, and brought us close under the Gawler range. At fourteen miles after starting, we passed a salt lake on our right, and several salt ponds on our left; but we could find no permanent fresh water anywhere. In the rocks of the range we had encamped under, we procured a small quantity left by the rains, but this supply was rapidly disappearing under the rays of a very hot sun, and had we been a few days later, we could not have crossed at all. The latitude of our camp was 32 degrees 41 minutes 40 seconds S.
September 22. — This morning I ascended26 one of the heights in the Gawler range, from which the view is extensive to the southward, over a generally low level country, with occasional elevations at intervals; to the north the view is obstructed27 by the Gawler range, consisting apparently28 of a succession of detached ridges high and rocky, and entirely29 of a porphoritic granite lying in huge bare masses upon the surface. The hills21 were without either timber or shrubs30, and very barren, with their front slopes exceedingly steep, and covered by small loose stones; several salt lakes were seen in various directions, but no indications of fresh water or springs.
21 Peron’s description of the mountains on the South-western coast, is singularly applicable to the Gawler range — He says, Tom. III. p. 233. “Sur ces montagnes pelees on ne voit pas un arbre, pas un arbriseau, pas un arbuste; rien, en un mot, qui puisse faire souponner l’existence de queque terre vegetale. La durete du roc paroit braver ici tous les efforts de la nature, et resister a ces memes moyens de decomposition31 qu’ elle emploie ailleurs avec tant de succes.”
It was late before the party moved on to-day, but the road was somewhat better, and there were many intervals of open grassy plains under the hills along which we travelled, at a course of E. 17 degrees N. for twenty-five miles. Encamping at night with tolerable grass, but without water. There had been a considerable pool of rain water here a few days ago, but it was now nearly dried up by the sun, and I was obliged to order the horses to be watched during the night.
To-day I found a most splendid creeping plant in flower, growing in between the ranges, it was quite new to me, and very beautiful; the leaf was like that of the vetch but larger, the flower bright scarlet32, with a rich purple centre, shaped like a half globe with the convex side outwards33; it was winged, and something like a sweet pea in shape, the flowers hung pendent upon long slender stalks, very similar to those of sweet peas, and in the greatest profusion34; altogether it was one of the prettiest and richest looking flowers I have seen in Australia.
September 23. — Moving on over a firm road, but with much scrub and prickly grass, we travelled for fifteen miles under the hills at a course of E. 20 degrees N., encamping early in the afternoon close under them, and procuring35 a little water left in the hollows by the rains. I ascended another of the heights in the Gawler range to-day, but could obtain no clear view from it, the weather being hazy36. Ridge behind ridge still appeared to rise to the north, beyond the front one under which we were travelling; and several salt lakes were seen among the hills at intervals. The rock of which the hills were composed was now changed from a porphoritic granite to a reddish quartz37, which was scattered38 all over the front hills in loose small fragments. The latitude of our camp was 32 degrees 30 minutes 35 seconds S.
September 24. — Our road was firmer to-day, over a red gritty soil of sandy loam39 and gravel40. The hills were still covered with quartz, but decreasing perceptibly in elevation as we advanced to the east. At about eight miles we were lucky enough to find a puddle41 of rain water, and at once halted for the day to rest and refresh the horses. Having ascended a high peak near the camp, I found I was surrounded by a mass of hills on every side; they gradually increased in elevation as they stretched to the northwest, becoming lower at a bearing of north, and quite detached to the north-east; resembling so many islands in the level waste around them.
September 25. — Moving from our camp early we had an excellent road, and travelled rapidly for about twenty miles, nearly due east, halting for the night under a high red hill, where we found some rain water for our horses; but the grass was very scarce. After dinner I ascended the hill near the camp and obtained a distant view of Mount Brown, and the range on the east side of Spencer’s Gulf42. To the north was one vast sea of level scrub, and in the midst of it a lake; but seemingly of no very great size. A few elevations were seen to the south-east, of all of which I took bearings, and then descended43 to the camp again. The bearing of Mount Brown, from this hill, was E. 10 degrees S.; and the latitude of the camp, under the hill, was 30 degrees 27 minutes 55 seconds S.
September 26. — Passing up a barren valley between low hills, we had at first a good road, but afterwards it became very stony. We encamped early, after a short stage of fifteen miles, having gradually left most of the hills to the north of us. One that we were encamped under I ascended, and had a very extensive view, and took many angles. A large lake (named Lake Gilles) 22 bore nearly due south, and was the same that had been seen from Baxter’s range; the latter was now distinctly visible at a bearing of E. 20 degrees S. The latitude of our camp was 32 degrees 35 minutes 58 seconds S. There was barely enough rain water found to supply our horses, but the feed was tolerably good.
22 After the first Colonial Treasurer44 of the province.
September 27. — We had a very bad stony road to-day, consisting principally of quartz and iron-stone, of which the ranges had latterly been entirely composed. Our stage was sixteen miles, passing round the south end of Baxter’s range, and encamping under it, on the eastern front, upon a gorge45, in which was plenty of water and good grass. We had thus, by taking advantage of the rains that had fallen, been enabled to force a passage from Streaky Bay to Spencer’s Gulf; but we had done so with much difficulty, and had we been but a few days later, we should have failed altogether, for though travelling for a great part of the distance under very high rocky ranges, we never found a drop of permanent fresh-water nor a single spring near them. There are no watercourses, and no timber; all is barren rocky and naked in the extreme. The waters that collected after rains, lodged in the basins of small lakes; but such was the nature of the soil that these were invariably salt.
It was through this dreary46 region I had left my overseer to take his division of the party when we separated at Baxter’s range; but I confided47 the task to him with confidence. Rain had at that time fallen very abundantly; he had already been over the road with me before, and knew all the places where water or grass was likely to be found; and our former dray tracks of 1839, which were still distinctly visible, would be a sufficient guide to prevent his getting off the line of route. The skill, judgment48, and success with which the overseer conducted the task assigned to him, fully22 justified49 the confidence I reposed50 in him; and upon my rejoining the party at Streaky Bay, after an absence of seven weeks, I was much gratified to find that neither the men, animals, or equipment, were in the least degree the worse for their passage through the desert.
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1
ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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depot
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| n.仓库，储藏处；公共汽车站；火车站 | |
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3
grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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9
previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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10
stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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12
limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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13
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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14
lodged
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| v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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15
ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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16
eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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19
elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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elevations
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| （水平或数量）提高( elevation的名词复数 )； 高地； 海拔； 提升 | |
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21
eucalyptus
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| n.桉树，桉属植物 | |
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22
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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jaded
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| adj.精疲力竭的；厌倦的；（因过饱或过多而）腻烦的；迟钝的 | |
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yoking
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| 配轭，矿区的分界 | |
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northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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26
ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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27
obstructed
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| 阻塞( obstruct的过去式和过去分词 )； 堵塞； 阻碍； 阻止 | |
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28
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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30
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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31
decomposition
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| n. 分解, 腐烂, 崩溃 | |
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32
scarlet
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| n.深红色，绯红色，红衣；adj.绯红色的 | |
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33
outwards
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| adj.外面的，公开的，向外的；adv.向外；n.外形 | |
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profusion
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| n.挥霍；丰富 | |
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35
procuring
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的现在分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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36
hazy
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| adj.有薄雾的，朦胧的；不肯定的，模糊的 | |
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quartz
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| n.石英 | |
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38
scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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39
loam
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| n.沃土 | |
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40
gravel
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| n.砂跞；砂砾层；结石 | |
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41
puddle
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| n.(雨)水坑，泥潭 | |
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42
gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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43
descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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44
treasurer
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| n.司库，财务主管 | |
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45
gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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46
dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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47
confided
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| v.吐露（秘密，心事等）( confide的过去式和过去分词 )；（向某人）吐露（隐私、秘密等） | |
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48
judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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49
justified
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| a.正当的，有理的 | |
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50
reposed
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| v.将（手臂等）靠在某人（某物）上( repose的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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