Kit1 Carson Hears Surprising News—He Visits Fremont—Is Re-engaged as
Guide—Fremont's Account of his Visit to Salt Lake.
Kit Carson was astonished on reaching Bent's Fort to learn that Lieutenant2 Fremont had gone by on his second exploring expedition but a few days before. Carson felt a strong attachment3 for his old leader and galloped4 nearly a hundred miles to overtake him. Fremont gave the mountaineer most cordial greeting and insisted so strongly on his accompanying him that Carson could not refuse.
The object of Fremont's second exploration was to connect the survey of the previous year with those of Commander Wilkes on the Pacific coast. The first objective point was the Great Salt Lake of Utah, of which very little was known at that time.
Carson was sent back to the fort to procure5 a number of mules6. He did as directed and rejoined Fremont at St. Vrain's Fort. The region traversed by these explorers is so well known today that it is hard to realize what a terra incognita it was but a short time since. Perhaps it will be most instructive at this point to quote the words of the great Pathfinder himself. The party arrived on the 21st of August on the Bear River, one of the principal tributaries7 of Great Salt Lake. The narrative8 of Fremont proceeds:
"We were now entering a region, which for us possessed9 a strange and extraordinary interest. We were upon the waters of the famous lake which forms a salient point among the remarkable10 geographical11 features of the country, and around which the vague and superstitious12 accounts of the trappers had thrown a delightful13 obscurity, which we anticipated pleasure in dispelling14, but which, in the meantime, left a crowded field for the exercise of our imagination.
"In our occasional conversations with the few old hunters who had visited the region, it had been a subject of frequent speculation15; and the wonders which they related were not the less agreeable because they were highly exaggerated and impossible.
"Hitherto this lake had been seen only by trappers, who were wandering through the country in search of new beaver16 streams, caring very little for geography; its islands had never been visited; and none were to be found who had entirely17 made the circuit of its shores, and no instrumental observations, or geographical survey of any description, had ever been made anywhere in the neighboring region. It was generally supposed that it had no visible outlet18; but, among the trappers, including those in my own camp, were many who believed that somewhere on its surface was a terrible whirlpool, through which its waters found their way to the ocean by some subterranean19 communication. All these things had been made a frequent subject of discussion in our desultory20 conversations around the fires at night; and my own mind had become tolerably well filled with their indefinite pictures, and insensibly colored with their romantic descriptions, which, in the pleasure of excitement, I was well disposed to believe, and half expected to realize.
"In about six miles' travel from our encampment we reached one of the points in our journey to which we had always looked forward with great interest—the famous Beer Springs, which, on account of the effervescing22 gas and acid taste, had received their name from the voyageurs and trappers of the country, who, in the midst of their rude and hard lives, are fond of finding some fancied resemblance to the luxuries they rarely have the good fortune to enjoy.
"Although somewhat disappointed in the expectations which various descriptions had led me to form of unusual beauty of situation and scenery, I found it altogether a place of very great interest; and a traveller for the first time in a volcanic23 region remains24 in a constant excitement, and at every step is arrested by something remarkable and new. There is a confusion of interesting objects gathered together in a small space. Around the place of encampment the Beer Springs were numerous but, as far as we could ascertain25, were entirely confined to that locality in the bottom. In the bed of the river in front, for a space of several hundred yards, they were very abundant; the effervescing gas rising up and agitating26 the water in countless27 bubbling columns. In the vicinity round about were numerous springs of an entirely different and equally marked mineral character. In a rather picturesque28 spot, about 1,300 yards below our encampment and immediately on the river bank, is the most remarkable spring of the place. In an opening on the rock, a white column of scattered29 water is thrown up, in form, like a jet d'eau, to a variable height of about three feet, and, though it is maintained in a constant supply, its greatest height is attained30 only at regular intervals31, according to the action of the force below. It is accompanied by a subterranean noise, which, together with the motion of the water, makes very much the impression of a steamboat in motion; and, without knowing that it had been already previously32 so called, we gave to it the name of the Steamboat Spring. The rock through which it is forced is slightly raised in a convex manner, and gathered at the opening into an urn21 mouthed form, and is evidently formed by continued deposition33 from the water, and colored bright red by oxide34 of iron.
"It is a hot spring, and the water has a pungent35, disagreeable metallic36 taste, leaving a burning effect on the tongue. Within perhaps two yards of the jet d'eau, is a small hole of about an inch in diameter, through which, at regular intervals, escapes a blast of hot air with a light wreath of smoke, accompanied by a regular noise.
"As they approached the lake, they passed over a country of bold and striking scenery, and through several 'gates,' as they called certain narrow valleys. The 'standing37 rock' is a huge column, occupying the centre of one of these passes. It fell from a height of perhaps 3,000 feet, and happened to remain in its present upright position.
"At last, on the 6th of September, the object for which their eyes had long been straining was brought to view.
"September 6.—This time we reached the butte without any difficulty; and ascending38 to the summit, immediately at our feet beheld39 the object of our anxious search, the waters of the Inland Sea, stretching in still and solitary40 grandeur41, far beyond the limit of our vision. It was one of the great points of the exploration; and as we looked eagerly over the lake in the first emotions of excited pleasure, I am doubtful if the followers42 of Balboa felt more enthusiasm when, from the heights of the Andes, they saw for the first time the great Western Ocean. It was certainly a magnificent object, and a noble terminus to this part of our expedition; and to travellers so long shut up among mountain ranges, a sudden view over the expanse of silent waters had in it something sublime43. Several large islands raised their high rocky heads out of the waves; but whether or not they were timbered was still left to our imagination, as the distance was too great to determine if the dark hues44 upon them were woodland or naked rock. During the day the clouds had been gathering45 black over the mountains to the westward46, and while we were looking, a storm burst down with sudden fury upon the lake, and entirely hid the islands from our view.
"On the edge of the stream a favorable spot was selected in a grove47, and felling the timber, we made a strong corral, or horse pen, for the animals, and a little fort for the people who were to remain. We were now probably in the country of the Utah Indians, though none reside upon the lake. The India rubber boat was repaired with prepared cloth and gum, and filled with air, in readiness for the next day.
"The provisions which Carson had brought with him being now exhausted48, and our stock reduced to a small quantity of roots, I determined49 to retain with me only a sufficient number of men for the execution of our design; and accordingly seven were sent back to Fort Hall, under the guidance of Francois Lajeunesse, who, having been for many years a trapper in the country, was an experienced mountaineer.
"We formed now but a small family. With Mr. Preuss and myself, Carson, Bernier, and Basil Lajeunesse had been selected for the boat expedition—the first ever attempted on this interior sea; and Badau, with Derosier, and Jacob (the colored man), were to be left in charge of the camp. We were favored with most delightful weather. Tonight there was a brilliant sunset of golden orange and green, which left the western sky clear and beautifully pure; but clouds in the east made me lose an occulation. The summer frogs were singing around us, and the evening was very pleasant, with a temperature of 60 degrees—a night of a more southern autumn. For our supper, we had yampak, the most agreeably flavored of the roots, seasoned by a small fat duck, which had come in the way of Jacob's rifle. Around our fire tonight were many speculations50 on what tomorrow would bring forth51; and in our busy conjectures52 we fancied that we should find every one of the large islands a tangled53 wilderness54 of trees and shrubbery, teeming55 with game of every description that the neighboring region afforded, and which the foot of a white man or Indian had never violated. Frequently, during the day, clouds had rested on the summits of their lofty mountains, and we believed that we should find clear streams and springs of fresh water; and we indulged in anticipations56 of the luxurious57 repasts with which we were to indemnify ourselves for past privations. Neither, in our discussions, were the whirlpool and other mysterious dangers forgotten, which Indian and hunter's stories attributed to this unexplored lake. The men had discovered that, instead of being strongly sewed, (like that of the preceding year, which had so triumphantly58 rode the canons of the Upper Great Platte), our present boat was only pasted together in a very insecure manner, the maker59 having been allowed so little time in the construction that he was obliged to crowd the labor60 of two months into several days. The insecurity of the boat was sensibly felt by us; and mingled61 with the enthusiasm and excitement that we all felt at the prospect62 of an undertaking63 which had never before been accomplished64 was a certain impression of danger, sufficient to give a serious character to our conversation. The momentary65 view which had been had of the lake the day before, its great extent and rugged66 islands, dimly seen amidst the dark waters in the obscurity of the sudden storm, were well calculated to heighten the idea of undefined danger with which the lake was generally associated."
"September 8.—A calm, clear day, with a sunrise temperature of 41 degrees. In view of our present enterprise, a part of the equipment of the boat had been made to consist of three airtight bags, about three feet long, and capable each of containing five gallons. These had been filled with water the night before, and were now placed in the boat, with our blankets and instruments, consisting of a sextant, telescope, spyglass, thermometer, and barometer67.
"In the course of the morning we discovered that two of the cylinders68 leaked so much as to require one man constantly at the bellows69, to keep them sufficiently70 full of air to support the boat. Although we had made a very early start, we loitered so much on the way—stopping every now and then, and floating silently along, to get a shot at a goose or a duck—that it was late in the day when he reached the outlet. The river here divided into several branches, filled with fluvials, and so very shallow that it was with difficulty we could get the boat along, being obliged to get out and wade71. We encamped on a low point among rushes and young willows72, where there was a quantity of driftwood, which served for our fires. The evening was mild and clear; we made a pleasant bed of the young willows; and geese and ducks enough had been killed for an abundant supper at night, and for breakfast next morning. The stillness of the night was enlivened by millions of waterfowl.
"September. 9.—The day was clear and calm; the thermometer at sunrise at 49 degrees. As is usual with the trappers on the eve of any enterprise, our people had made dreams, and theirs happened to be a bad one—one which always preceded evil—and consequently they looked very gloomy this morning; but we hurried through our breakfast, in order to make an early start, and have all the day before us for our adventure. The channel in a short distance became so shallow that our navigation was at an end, being merely a sheet of soft mud, with a few inches of water, and sometimes none at all, forming the low water shore of the lake. All this place was absolutely covered with flocks of screaming plover73. We took off our clothes, and, getting overboard, commenced dragging the boat—making, by this operation, a very curious trail, and a very disagreeable smell in stirring up the mud, as we sank above the knee at every step. The water here was still fresh, with only an insipid74 and disagreeable taste, probably derived75 from the bed of fetid mud. After proceeding76 in this way about a mile, we came to a small black ridge77 on the bottom, beyond which the water became suddenly salt, beginning gradually to deepen, and the bottom was sandy and firm. It was a remarkable division, separating the fresh water of the rivers from the briny78 water of the lake, which was entirely saturated79 with common salt. Pushing our little vessel80 across the narrow boundary, we sprang on board, and at length were afloat on the waters of the unknown sea.
"We did not steer81 for the mountainous islands, but directed our course towards a lower one, which it had been decided82 we should first visit, the summit of which was formed like the crater83 at the upper end of Bear River Valley. So long as we could touch the bottom with our paddles, we were very gay; but gradually, as the water deepened, we became more still in our frail84 bateau of gum cloth distended85 with air, and with pasted seams. Although the day was very calm, there was a considerable swell86 on the lake; and there were white patches of foam87 on the surface, which were slowly moving to the southward, indicating the set of a current in that direction, and recalling the recollection of the whirlpool stories. The water continued to deepen as we advanced; the lake becoming almost transparently88 clear, of an extremely beautiful bright green color; and the spray which was thrown into the boat and over our clothes, was directly converted into a crust of common salt, which covered also our hands and arms. 'Captain,' said Carson, who for sometime had been looking suspiciously at some whitening appearances outside the nearest islands, 'what are those yonder?—won't you just take a look with the glass?' We ceased paddling for a moment, and found them to be the caps of the waves that were beginning to break under the force of a strong breeze that was coming up the lake. The form of the boat seemed to be an admirable one, and it rode on the waves like a water bird; but, at the same time, it was extremely slow in its progress. When we were a little more than half way across the reach, two of the divisions between the cylinders gave way, and it required the constant use of the bellows to keep in a sufficient quantity of air. For a long time we scarcely seemed to approach our island, but gradually we worked across the rougher sea of the open channel, into the smoother water under the lee of the island, and began to discover that what we took for a long row of pelicans89, ranged on the beach, were only low cliffs whitened with salt by the spray of the waves; and about noon we reached the shore, the transparency of the water enabling us to see the bottom at a considerable depth.
"The cliffs and masses of rock along the shore were whitened by an incrustation of salt where the waves dashed up against them; and the evaporating water, which had been left in holes and hollows on the surface of the rocks, was covered with a crust of salt about one eighth of an inch in thickness.
"Carrying with us the barometer and other instruments, in the afternoon we ascended90 to the highest point of the island—a bare, rocky peak, 800 feet above the lake. Standing on the summit, we enjoyed an extended view of the lake, inclosed in a basin of rugged mountains, which sometimes left marshy91 flats and extensive bottoms between them and the shore, and in other places came directly down into the water with bold and precipitous bluffs92.
"As we looked over the vast expanse of water spread out beneath us, and strained our eyes along the silent shores over which hung so much doubt and uncertainty93, and which were so full of interest to us, I could hardly repress the almost irresistible94 desire to continue our exploration; but the lengthening95 snow on the mountains was a plain indication of the advancing season, and our frail linen96 boat appeared so insecure that I was unwilling97 to trust our lives to the uncertainties98 of the lake. I therefore unwillingly99 resolved to terminate our survey here, and remain satisfied for the present with what we had been able to add to the unknown geography of the region. We felt pleasure also in remembering that we were the first who, in the traditionary annals of the country, had visited the islands, and broken, with the cheerful sound of human voices, the long solitude100 of the place.
"I accidentally left on the summit the brass101 cover to the object end of my spyglass and as it will probably remain there undisturbed by Indians, it will furnish matter of speculation to some future traveller. In our excursions about the island, we did not meet with any kind of animal: a magpie102, and another larger bird, probably attracted by the smoke of our fire, paid us a visit from the shore, and were the only living things seen during our stay. The rock constituting the cliffs along the shore where we were encamped, is a talcous rock, or steatite, with brown spar.
"At sunset, the temperature was 70 degrees. We had arrived just in time to obtain a meridian103 altitude of the sun, and other observations were obtained this evening, which placed our camp in latitude104 41 degrees 10' 42" and longitude105 112 degrees 21' 05" from Greenwich. From a discussion of the barometrical106 observations made during our stay on the shores of the lake, we have adopted 4,200 feet for its elevation107 above the Gulf108 of Mexico. In the first disappointment we felt from the dissipation of our dream of the fertile islands, I called this Disappointment Island.
"Out of the driftwood, we made ourselves pleasant little lodges109, open to the water, and, after having kindled110 large fires to excite the wonder of any straggling savage111 on the lake shores, lay down, for the first time in a long journey, in perfect security; no one thinking about his arms. The evening was extremely bright and pleasant; but the wind rose during the night, and the waves began to break heavily on the shore, making our island tremble. I had not expected in our inland journey to hear the roar of an ocean surf; and the strangeness of our situation, and the excitement we felt in the associated interests of the place, made this one of the most interesting nights I remember during our long expedition.
"In the morning, the surf was breaking heavily on the shore, and we were up early. The lake was dark and agitated112, and we hurried through our scanty113 breakfast, and embarked—having first filled one of the buckets with water from which it was intended to make salt. The sun had risen by the time we were ready to start; and it was blowing a strong gale114 of wind, almost directly off the shore, and raising a considerable sea, in which our boat strained very much. It roughened as we got away from the island, and it required all the efforts of the men to make any head against the wind and sea; the gale rising with the sun; and there was danger of being blown into one of the open reaches beyond the island. At the distance of half a mile from the beach, the depth of water was sixteen feet, with a clay bottom; but, as the working of the boat was very severe labor, and during the operation of sounding, it was necessary to cease paddling, during which the boat lost considerable way, I was unwilling to discourage the men, and reluctantly gave up my intention of ascertaining115 the depth and character of the bed. There was a general shout in the boat when we found ourselves in one fathom116, and we soon after landed on a low point of mud, where we unloaded the boat, and carried the baggage to firmer ground."
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1
kit
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| n.用具包，成套工具；随身携带物 | |
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lieutenant
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| n.陆军中尉，海军上尉；代理官员，副职官员 | |
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attachment
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| n.附属物，附件；依恋；依附 | |
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galloped
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| （使马）飞奔，奔驰( gallop的过去式和过去分词 )； 快速做[说]某事 | |
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procure
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| vt.获得，取得，促成；vi.拉皮条 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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tributaries
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| n. 支流 | |
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narrative
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| n.叙述，故事；adj.叙事的，故事体的 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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10
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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geographical
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| adj.地理的；地区(性)的 | |
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superstitious
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| adj.迷信的 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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14
dispelling
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| v.驱散，赶跑( dispel的现在分词 ) | |
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speculation
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| n.思索，沉思；猜测；投机 | |
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beaver
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| n.海狸，河狸 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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outlet
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| n.出口/路；销路；批发商店；通风口；发泄 | |
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subterranean
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| adj.地下的，地表下的 | |
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desultory
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| adj.散漫的，无方法的 | |
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urn
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| n.（有座脚的）瓮；坟墓；骨灰瓮 | |
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effervescing
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| v.冒气泡，起泡沫( effervesce的现在分词 ) | |
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volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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agitating
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| 搅动( agitate的现在分词 )； 激怒； 使焦虑不安； （尤指为法律、社会状况的改变而）激烈争论 | |
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countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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deposition
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| n.免职，罢官；作证；沉淀；沉淀物 | |
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oxide
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| n.氧化物 | |
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pungent
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| adj.（气味、味道）刺激性的，辛辣的；尖锐的 | |
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metallic
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| adj.金属的；金属制的；含金属的；产金属的；像金属的 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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followers
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| 追随者( follower的名词复数 )； 用户； 契据的附面； 从动件 | |
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sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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hues
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| 色彩( hue的名词复数 )； 色调； 信仰； 观点 | |
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gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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speculations
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| n.投机买卖( speculation的名词复数 )；思考；投机活动；推断 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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conjectures
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| 推测，猜想( conjecture的名词复数 ) | |
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tangled
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| adj. 纠缠的，紊乱的 动词tangle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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teeming
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| adj.丰富的v.充满( teem的现在分词 )；到处都是；（指水、雨等）暴降；倾注 | |
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56
anticipations
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| 预期( anticipation的名词复数 )； 预测； （信托财产收益的）预支； 预期的事物 | |
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luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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triumphantly
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| ad.得意洋洋地；得胜地；成功地 | |
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maker
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| n.制造者，制造商 | |
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labor
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| n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦 | |
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mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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momentary
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| adj.片刻的，瞬息的；短暂的 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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barometer
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| n.气压表，睛雨表，反应指标 | |
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cylinders
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| n.圆筒( cylinder的名词复数 )；圆柱；汽缸；（尤指用作容器的）圆筒状物 | |
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bellows
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| n.风箱；发出吼叫声，咆哮（尤指因痛苦）( bellow的名词复数 )；（愤怒地）说出（某事），大叫v.发出吼叫声，咆哮（尤指因痛苦）( bellow的第三人称单数 )；（愤怒地）说出（某事），大叫 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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wade
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| v.跋涉，涉水；n.跋涉 | |
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willows
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| n.柳树( willow的名词复数 )；柳木 | |
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plover
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| n.珩，珩科鸟，千鸟 | |
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insipid
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| adj.无味的，枯燥乏味的，单调的 | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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briny
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| adj.盐水的；很咸的；n.海洋 | |
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saturated
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| a.饱和的，充满的 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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steer
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| vt.驾驶，为…操舵；引导；vi.驾驶 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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crater
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| n.火山口，弹坑 | |
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frail
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| adj.身体虚弱的；易损坏的 | |
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distended
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| v.（使）膨胀，肿胀( distend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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swell
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| vi.膨胀，肿胀；增长，增强 | |
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foam
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| v./n.泡沫，起泡沫 | |
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transparently
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| 明亮地，显然地，易觉察地 | |
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pelicans
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| n.鹈鹕( pelican的名词复数 ) | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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marshy
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| adj.沼泽的 | |
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bluffs
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| 恐吓( bluff的名词复数 )； 悬崖； 峭壁 | |
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uncertainty
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| n.易变，靠不住，不确知，不确定的事物 | |
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irresistible
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| adj.非常诱人的，无法拒绝的，无法抗拒的 | |
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lengthening
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| （时间或空间）延长，伸长( lengthen的现在分词 )； 加长 | |
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linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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unwilling
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| adj.不情愿的 | |
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uncertainties
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| 无把握( uncertainty的名词复数 )； 不确定； 变化不定； 无把握、不确定的事物 | |
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unwillingly
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| adv.不情愿地 | |
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100
solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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102
magpie
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| n.喜欢收藏物品的人，喜鹊，饶舌者 | |
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103
meridian
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| adj.子午线的；全盛期的 | |
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104
latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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longitude
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| n.经线，经度 | |
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106
barometrical
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| 气压计的 | |
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107
elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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109
lodges
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| v.存放( lodge的第三人称单数 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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kindled
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| （使某物）燃烧，着火( kindle的过去式和过去分词 )； 激起（感情等）； 发亮，放光 | |
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111
savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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agitated
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| adj.被鼓动的，不安的 | |
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113
scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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114
gale
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| n.大风，强风，一阵闹声（尤指笑声等） | |
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115
ascertaining
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的现在分词 ) | |
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116
fathom
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| v.领悟，彻底了解 | |
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