On my way to the Karroo I had to pass through Somerset East, and it so fell out that I fell in with a countryman from Edinburgh, who chanced to be going to Somerset in the same “passenger-cart” with myself. His name must have been a novelty once, though much of its freshness is worn off now—it was Brown.
Our cart had a hood1; the roads were very bad, and the behaviour of that hood was stupendous! Its attachment2 to the cart was, so to speak, partial; therefore it possessed4 a semi-independent motion which was perplexing. You could not count on its actions. A sudden lurch5 of the cart to right or left did, of course, carry the hood with it, and, counting on that, you laid your sudden plans to avoid collision; but the elasticity6 of the hood enabled it to give you a slap on the face before obeying its proper impulse. So, too, it would come down on your head unexpectedly, or, without the slightest provocation7, would hit you on the neck behind. I learned with painful certainty in that cart that I had a “small” to my back! It seemed to me that it grew large before the journey was over.
Brown was an intelligent man,—not an unusual state of things with the “Browns.” He had two pretty daughters with him, aged8 eight and twelve respectively. We got on well together, and crossed the Zuurberg range in company on the last day of the year.
It was over passes in this range that the settlers of 1820 went in long trains of Cape9 wagons10, with wives and little ones, and household goods, and civilised implements11 of husbandry, and weapons of defence, with high hopes and strong courage, and with their “lives in their hands,” to subdue12 the wilderness13. It was from these heights that they looked over the beautiful and bush-clad plains of “Albany,” which lay before them as the lot of their inheritance.
The breaking up and scattering14 of the various “parties” was most eloquently15 and graphically16 told by the Reverend H.H. Dugmore in a lecture delivered at Grahamstown, on the occasion of the “British Settlers’ Jubilee,” in May 1870—fifty years after the arrival of the “fathers.” (See Note 1.) I quote one passage, which gives a good idea of the manner in which the land was taken up.
“And now the Sunday’s River is crossed, and the terrible old Ado Hill is climbed, and Quaggas Flat is passed, and the Bushman’s river heights are scaled. The points of divergence17 are reached, and the long column breaks into divisions. Baillie’s party made their way to the mouth of the Fish River, where, it was said, the ‘Head’ had been allowed to choose a territory, and where he hoped to realise imaginations of commercial wealth by founding a seaport18 town. And the Duke of Newcastle’s protégés from Nottingham took possession of the beautiful vale of Clumber, naming it in honour of their noble patron. And Wilson’s party settled between the plains of Waay-plaats and the Kowie bush, right across the path of the elephants, some of which they tried to shoot with fowling-pieces. And Sefton’s party founded the village of Salem, the religious importance of which to the early progress of the settlement, is not to be estimated by its present size and population. These four were the large parties. The smaller ones filled up the intervening spaces between them. Behind the thicket-clad sandhills of the Kowie and Green Fountain, and extending over the low plains beyond Bathurst, were the locations of Cock’s, Thornhill’s, Ostler’s, Smith’s, and Richardson’s parties. Skirting the wooded Kloofs from Bathurst towards the banks of the Klienemonden, were ranged the parties of James and Hyman. It was the latter who gravely announced to Captain Trapps, the Bathurst magistrate19, the discovery of ‘precious stones’ on his location; and which the angry gentleman, jealous of the reserved rights of Government, found, on further inquiry20, were only ‘precious big ones!’ The rich valley of Lushington afforded a resting-place to Dyason’s party. Holder’s people called their location New Bristol; which never, however, acquired any resemblance to Old Bristol. Passing on towards the front, there were Mouncey’s party, Hayhurst’s party, Bradshaw’s party, Southey’s party, stretching along the edge of the wide plains of the Round Hill, and drinking their Western waters. The post of honour and of danger was the line of the Kap River. This was occupied by the party of Scott below Kafir Drift, and by the Irish party above it. The forlorn hope of the entire settlement was Mahony’s party at the clay pits, who had to bear the first brunt of every Kafir depredation21 in the Lower Albany direction. Names thicken as we proceed from Waay-plaats towards Grahamstown. Passing Greathead’s location, we come among the men of Dalgairns at Blauw Krantz. Then those of Liversage about Manly’s Flats. John Stanley, ‘Head of all Parties,’ as he styled himself, belonged to the same neighbourhood. Turvey’s party were in Grobblaar’s Kloof; William Smith’s at Stony22 Vale, Dr Clarke’s at Collingham. Howard’s, Morgan’s, and Carlisle’s, bring us by successive steps to the neighbourhood of Grahamstown.
“My ‘reminiscences’ are those of an Albany settler; but I do not forget that there was another party, who, though locally separated from the main body, occupied a position, the importance of which developed itself in the after-history of the settlement. I refer to the Scotch23 party, who were located on the Baviaans River, among mountains and glens that have been rendered classic by the poetry of their leader and historic by the gallant24 deeds and endurance of his compatriots in the after-struggles of the frontier. I need make no particular reference, however, to the early circumstances of that body of men, as in Pringle’s African Sketches25 they have a most graphically-written history of their own.”
Thus, in 1820, was the land overrun and taken possession of by the “British Settlers.” It had once been the land of the Hottentots, but had never at any time rightfully belonged to the Kafirs, who, after wrongfully entering it and rendering26 themselves by their thievish disposition27 and deceit an unbearable28 nuisance, were finally driven out of it in 1819.
The idea of Government in sending the settlers out to occupy these vacated lands was, that a convenient buffer29 might thus be placed on the frontier of the colony to keep the savages31 in check. That these settlers and their descendants received many a rude shock, and played their part nobly, has been proved, and is admitted on all hands. That they received less encouragement and help from those who induced them to emigrate than might have been expected, is equally certain.
Brown and I chatted, more or less, of these things as we toiled32 up the slopes of the Zuurberg, where the original settlers had toiled fifty-five years before us, and in the afternoon came to a pretty good inn, where a small misfortune befell us. While we were indulging in a cup of tea, one of our horses escaped. We had crossed the mountain range by that time, and the truant33 had a fine range of undulating country to scamper34 over. That animal gave us some trouble, for, although nearly a dozen men went, after him on horseback, he kept dodging35 about actively36 with many flourishes of heels and tail during the whole afternoon.
When one is in no hurry, and the weather is fine, a delay of this kind is rather pleasant than otherwise. While men and boys were engaged in the fruitless chase, I wandered off into the bush in the hope of stumbling on a tortoise or a snake, or some other creature that I had previously37 been accustomed to see in zoological collections, but the reptiles38 kept close, and refused to show themselves. I came, however, on a gigantic beehive; at least it resembled one in appearance, though the smoke that issued from a hole in its top suggested humanity. There was also a hole in one side partially39 covered by a rickety door. Close beside it stood a little black creature which resembled a fat and hairless monkey. It might have been a baboon40. The astonished gaze and grin with which it greeted me warranted such an assumption, but when it suddenly turned and bolted through the hole into the beehive, I observed that it had no tail—not even a vestige41 of such a creation,—and thus discovered that it was a “Tottie,” or Hottentot boy. The sublime42, the quaint43, the miserable44, the ridiculous, and the beautiful, were before me in that scene. Let me expound45 these five “heads” in order.
On my left rose the woody slopes and crags of the Zuurberg, above whose summits the white hills and towers and gorgeous battlements of cloud-land rose into the bright blue sky. Around me were groups of flowering mimosa bushes, with thorns from three to six inches long, interspersed46 with which were curious aloes, whose weird47 leafy tops gave them the aspect of shrubs48 growing upside down with their roots scrambling49 aimlessly in the air. In front stood the native hut, the wretchedness of whose outside was only equalled by the filth50 and poverty-stricken aspect within. Near to this were several native children, as black as coal, as impudent-looking as tom-tits, and as lively as crickets. Beyond all lay the undulating plains studded with flowering shrubs of varied51 form and hue52, and bathed in golden sunshine.
There is something sad, ay, and something mysterious, to me in the thought that such a lovely land had been, until so recently, the home of the savage30 and the scene of his wicked and ruthless deeds.
On New Year’s day I dined in a public restaurant in Somerset,—in a strange land with strangers. But the strangers were not shy. Neither was I. There were about a dozen of us at table, and before dinner was half over we were as sociable53 as if we had been bosom54 friends from infancy55. We even got to the length of warm discussion, and I heard some sentiments expressed regarding natives and “native policy,” with which I could not agree; but, being ignorant on the subject at the time, I stuck to general principles. It seemed to me that some of the speakers must have been born with their brains turned the wrong way. This idea recalls to memory the curious fact that, during my first walk in Somerset, I saw a mounted Hottentot policeman wearing his helmet with the fore3 part to the back, because its rear peak was longer, and a better sunshade, than the front.
The same tendency to sacrifice appearance to utility is observable among the Malays of Capetown, who treat their sou’-westers similarly.
My first visit to a native church was on a Sunday,—the hottest Sunday I ever spent. The congregation was entirely56 black and brown. It, also, was hot, so that the church was by no means cool. Whatever depth, or want of depth, there might have been in the Christianity of these people, the garb57 and the bearing of civilisation58 were very obvious and very pleasant to behold59. Their behaviour was most orderly and modest, though, probably, many of them had gone there to display their finery.
Taking my place near the pulpit I saw them to advantage. The church was pretty full. I sat down beside a very stout60 Hottentot girl, whose dress of showy chintz was as much a subject of interest to herself as of indifference61 to the congregation. There were marvellous contrasts and surprising harmonies displayed in that church, with not a few discords62. Childlike good-humour sat on every countenance63. When Mr Green ascended64 the pulpit eager expectancy65 gleamed in every jet-black eye. When the psalm66 was given out the preparatory clearing of throats and consequent opening of thick red lips and revelation of splendid rows of teeth all over the church had quite a lighting-up effect on the scene. They sang heartily67 and well of course,—all black people do so, I think. Just opposite me sat a young man with a countenance so solemn that I felt sure he had made up his mind to “be good,” and get the full benefit of the services. His black cheeks seemed to glisten68 with earnestness; his thick lips pouted69 with devotional good-will. I do not write in ridicule70, but merely endeavour to convey my full meaning. He wore a superfine black dress coat, a gaudy71 vest, and buff corduroy trousers so short that they displayed to advantage his enormous bare feet. Beside him was an elderly man with tweed trousers, a white shirt and brown shooting coat, and a face not quite so solemn but very sedate72. Some of the men had boots, some had black silk hats, others wideawakes,—which of course they removed on entering. It seemed to me that there was among them every part and variety of costume from morning to evening dress, but no individual could boast of being complete in himself.
As for the women, they were indescribable. Some of them wore little more than a blanket, others were clothed in the height of European fashion,—or something like it,—and all had evidently put on their “Sunday’s best.” One stout and remarkably73 healthy young woman appeared in a brilliant skirt, and an indescribable hat with ostrich74 feathers on her woolly head. She sat herself down close beside me and went to sleep at the beginning of the sermon—not out of irreverence75, I am persuaded, but from heat. In this state she continued swaying to and fro to the end of the discourse76, occasionally drooping77, as though she meant to make a pillow of my shoulder, which she would certainly have done, but for a more modestly clad Hottentot girl at her other side, who, evidently scandalised, kept poking78 at her continuously with her elbow. In justice to the congregation I am bound to add, that I saw very few sleepers79. They were most attentive80 and earnest, despite the distracting elements of a humorous kind that obtruded81 themselves.
Somerset East is a pretty town on the Little Fish River, at the foot of the Boschberg mountains, which rise abruptly82 from the plain. It boasts of banks, a newspaper, several churches, and the Gill College,—an imposing83 edifice84 which was erected85 by private endowment. In regard to its inhabitants, all I can say is, that the few members I had the pleasure of meeting there during a three days’ sojourn86 were exceedingly hospitable87 and kind.
Note 1. This deeply interesting lecture was published in Grahamstown as a pamphlet, entitled, The Reminiscences of an Albany Settler.
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1
hood
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| n.头巾，兜帽，覆盖；v.罩上，以头巾覆盖 | |
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attachment
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| n.附属物，附件；依恋；依附 | |
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fore
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| adv.在前面；adj.先前的；在前部的；n.前部 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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lurch
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| n.突然向前或旁边倒；v.蹒跚而行 | |
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elasticity
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| n.弹性，伸缩力 | |
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provocation
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| n.激怒，刺激，挑拨，挑衅的事物，激怒的原因 | |
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aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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wagons
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| n.四轮的运货马车( wagon的名词复数 )；铁路货车；小手推车 | |
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implements
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| n.工具( implement的名词复数 )；家具；手段；[法律]履行（契约等）v.实现( implement的第三人称单数 )；执行；贯彻；使生效 | |
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subdue
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| vt.制服，使顺从，征服；抑制，克制 | |
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wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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scattering
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| n.[物]散射；散乱，分散；在媒介质中的散播adj.散乱的；分散在不同范围的；广泛扩散的；（选票）数量分散的v.散射(scatter的ing形式)；散布；驱散 | |
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eloquently
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| adv. 雄辩地(有口才地, 富于表情地) | |
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graphically
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| adv.通过图表；生动地，轮廓分明地 | |
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divergence
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| n.分歧，岔开 | |
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seaport
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| n.海港，港口，港市 | |
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magistrate
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| n.地方行政官，地方法官，治安官 | |
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inquiry
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| n.打听，询问，调查，查问 | |
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depredation
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| n.掠夺，蹂躏 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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scotch
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| n.伤口，刻痕；苏格兰威士忌酒；v.粉碎，消灭，阻止；adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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sketches
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| n.草图( sketch的名词复数 )；素描；速写；梗概 | |
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rendering
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| n.表现，描写 | |
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disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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unbearable
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| adj.不能容忍的；忍受不住的 | |
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buffer
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| n.起缓冲作用的人(或物)，缓冲器；vt.缓冲 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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savages
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| 未开化的人，野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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toiled
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| 长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的过去式和过去分词 )； 艰难缓慢地移动，跋涉 | |
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truant
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| n.懒惰鬼，旷课者；adj.偷懒的，旷课的，游荡的；v.偷懒，旷课 | |
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scamper
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| v.奔跑，快跑 | |
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dodging
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| n.避开，闪过，音调改变v.闪躲( dodge的现在分词 )；回避 | |
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actively
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| adv.积极地，勤奋地 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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reptiles
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| n.爬行动物，爬虫( reptile的名词复数 ) | |
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partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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baboon
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| n.狒狒 | |
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vestige
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| n.痕迹，遗迹，残余 | |
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sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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expound
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| v.详述；解释；阐述 | |
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46
interspersed
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| adj.[医]散开的；点缀的v.intersperse的过去式和过去分词 | |
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weird
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| adj.古怪的，离奇的；怪诞的，神秘而可怕的 | |
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48
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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49
scrambling
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| v.快速爬行( scramble的现在分词 )；攀登；争夺；（军事飞机）紧急起飞 | |
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50
filth
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| n.肮脏，污物，污秽；淫猥 | |
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51
varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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52
hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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sociable
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| adj.好交际的，友好的，合群的 | |
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bosom
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| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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infancy
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| n.婴儿期；幼年期；初期 | |
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56
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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garb
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| n.服装，装束 | |
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58
civilisation
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| n.文明，文化，开化，教化 | |
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59
behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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indifference
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| n.不感兴趣，不关心，冷淡，不在乎 | |
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discords
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| 不和（discord的复数形式） | |
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countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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expectancy
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| n.期望，预期，（根据概率统计求得）预期数额 | |
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66
psalm
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| n.赞美诗，圣诗 | |
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heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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glisten
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| vi.（光洁或湿润表面等）闪闪发光，闪闪发亮 | |
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pouted
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| v.撅（嘴）( pout的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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70
ridicule
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| v.讥讽，挖苦；n.嘲弄 | |
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71
gaudy
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| adj.华而不实的；俗丽的 | |
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72
sedate
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| adj.沉着的，镇静的，安静的 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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ostrich
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| n.鸵鸟 | |
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75
irreverence
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| n.不尊敬 | |
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76
discourse
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| n.论文，演说；谈话；话语；vi.讲述，著述 | |
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drooping
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| adj. 下垂的，无力的 动词droop的现在分词 | |
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78
poking
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| n. 刺，戳，袋 vt. 拨开，刺，戳 vi. 戳，刺，捅，搜索，伸出，行动散慢 | |
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79
sleepers
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| n.卧铺（通常以复数形式出现）；卧车( sleeper的名词复数 )；轨枕；睡觉（呈某种状态）的人；小耳环 | |
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80
attentive
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| adj.注意的，专心的；关心(别人)的，殷勤的 | |
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81
obtruded
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| v.强行向前，强行，强迫( obtrude的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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82
abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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83
imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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84
edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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85
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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86
sojourn
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| v./n.旅居，寄居；逗留 | |
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87
hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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