It is pretty generally known that there is a “tablecloth” at Capetown. Its proper resting-place is Table Mountain. When the flat top of that celebrated4 hill is clear, (I write of the summer season), the thirty thousand inhabitants of Capetown may go forth5 in comfort if they can stand the blazing sunshine, but as surely as that pure white cloud—the tablecloth—rests on the summit of Table Mountain, so surely does the gale6 known as the “south-easter” come down like a wolf on the fold.
The south-easter is a sneezer, and a frequent visitor at the Cape in summer. Where it comes from no one can tell: where it goes to is best known to itself: what it does in passing is painfully obvious to all. Fresh from the Antarctic seas it swoops7 down on the southern shores of Africa, and sweeps over the land as if in search of a worthy8 foe9. It apparently10 finds one in Table Mountain, which, being 3582 feet high, craggy and precipitous, meets the enemy with frowning front, and hurls11 him back discomfited—but not defeated.
Rallying on the instant, the south-easter rushes up over its cloud-capped head and round its rugged12 sides, and down its dizzy slopes, and falls with a shriek13 of fiendish fury on the doomed14 city. Oceans of sand and dust are caught up by it, whirled round as if in mad ecstasy15, and dashed against the faces of the inhabitants—who tightly shut their mouths and eyes as they stoop to resist the onset16. Then the south-easter yells while it sweeps dust, small stones, twigs17, leaves, and stray miscellanies, right over Signal Hill into the South Atlantic.
This is bad enough, but it is a mere18 skirmish—only the advance guard of the enemy. Supposing this attack to have been commenced in the morning, the remainder of the day is marked by a series of violent assaults with brief intervals19 of repose20. In rapid succession the south-easter brings up its battalions21 and hurls them on the mountain. It leaps over the moat and ramparts of the “castle” with fury, roars down the cannons’ throats, shrieks22 out at the touch-holes, and lashes23 about the town right and left, assaulting and violating, for the south-easter respects neither person nor place. It rattles24 roofs and windows, and all but overturns steeples and chimneys; it well-nigh blows the shops inside out, and fills them with dust; it storms the barracks and maltreats the soldiers; it compels the shutting up of sun-umbrellas, or reverses and blows them to ribbons; it removes hats and bonnets25 by the score, and sweeps up small pebbles26 in its mad career, so that one feels as if being painfully pelted27 with buck-shot; it causes the shipping28 to strain fearfully at its cables, and churns the waters of Table Bay into a seething29 mass of snow and indigo30.
All this time the sun shines intensely in a cloudless sky, and beautifies the “cloth” which floats on Table Mountain, undulating on its surface, or pouring over its edge like a Niagara of wool, to be warmed into invisibility before tumbling half-way down the mighty31 precipice32 that backs the town.
Although I have compared the south-easter to an enemy, he is in reality a friend. The inhabitants call him the “Cape doctor,” because in the general clearance33 he sweeps away bad smells, the natural result of bad drainage.
But the south-easter was not blowing when I arrived at the ancient capital of South Africa. The “cloth” was drawn34; the crags of the mountain, the white buildings and green groves35 of the town and suburbs, were unsullied by mist or dust as we steamed into the Bay, and the rugged outlines of the hills of the interior were distinctly visible through the warm haze36.
The suburbs of the city are exceedingly beautiful, and here many of the principal inhabitants have built elegant mansions37, to which they retire after the business of each day to escape the heat, dust, and smells of the town. A short line of railroad runs to these verdant38 spots at one side, while a tramway extends on the other. In another direction the railway runs by Stellenbosch and the Paarl to Wellington and Worcester.
It may surprise some people to be told that there is a mine—a rich and prolific39 mine—at Capetown. Nevertheless, such is undoubtedly40 the case.
This mine is more extensive and valuable than any of the diamond or gold mines of the Orange River or the Transvaal. Indeed it is one of the most extensive mines in the world. It is, as already said, exceedingly prolific, and is marked by one grand peculiarity41, namely, that among those who devote themselves to the working of it there are no disappointed or unsuccessful diggers. Another peculiarity is, that very little capital is required to work it. The digger is not obliged to purchase “claims,” for it is almost if not altogether “Free.”
The only capital that must be sunk in it is Time, and of that even one hour a day will suffice to bring up vast stores of wealth from its unfathomable depths, while the labour bestowed42 tends to rest rather than to weary the body, at the same time that it enlarges the mind and invigorates the soul.
Still another peculiarity of this mine is, that its products are various and innumerable. You must go to Australia or to California for gold, to Golconda or Kimberley for diamonds, to Mexico or Spain for silver, to Cornwall for copper43, tin, and lead, and to Sweden for iron; but in this mine you will find the various metals and gems44 in neighbouring “pockets” and nuggets, and seams and beds. Here you may gather the golden opinions of the ancients in close proximity45 to those of the moderns. Here you will find pearls of thought, sparkling gems of imagery, broad seams of satire46, and silvery streams of sentiment, with wealth of wisdom and of wit. Hard iron-fisted facts also, and funny mercurial47 fancies are to be found here in abundance, and there are tons of tin in the form of rubbish, which is usually left at a pit’s mouth, and brings little or no “tin” to those who brought it to light, while there are voluminous layers of literary lead, whose weight and dulness render the working of them tedious;—but this need not, and does not, dishearten the digger, for in all mines the poor and worthless material is ever in excess of that which is valuable, and miserable48 indeed must be the spirit of him who should refuse to manipulate the “dirt” because the large nuggets and gems are few and far between. Throughout all the cuttings flow glittering brooks49 of knowledge, and also many crystal rivulets50 drawn from the pure waters of the River of Life.
The mine of which I write is the Public Library of Capetown.
And let it not be supposed that I exaggerate or over-estimate this mine. It unquestionably takes rank as one of the noted51 libraries of the world, and South Africa has reason to be proud of, and grateful to, the men who, by their enlightened schemes and liberality, were the means of creating what is at once a mine and a monument to the Cape.
But Capetown boasts of many other institutions which are well worthy of notice. It is—and has been since its foundation by Van Riebeek in 1652—the seat of Governments. (See Note 1.) It is also the seat of the Supreme52 Court and of the University of the Cape of Good Hope. It possesses a first-rate “South African museum,” two cathedrals, many churches, a castle, fort, barracks, and other buildings too numerous to mention. Also a splendid breakwater, patent slip, and docks.
From the sublime53 to the ridiculous is well-known to be but a step. From mines of knowledge to matter-of-fact mules may seem a rather long step. If it is, the blame of my taking it must rest on the force of association. From the library you can walk in a few minutes to the docks, and docks has brought me to mules. I saw a ship-load of mules there, and it was a sight not to be forgotten.
Have you ever seen a fair stand-up fight between men and mules? It is not easy to say which of the two combatants is the more mulish. I went one day to the docks and chanced to witness a conflict. They were discharging the mules—the men were—from the hold of the small vessel54 which had brought them over sea from South America. “Victory or death” was undoubtedly the motto of each. Of course man prevailed because of superior power,—not obstinacy55.
Many days, ay weeks, had these mules spent on the heaving deep; no doubt they had all been sea-sick, certainly they had been half killed, but when I went down into the hold of that ship, where there must have been at least fifty animals, the hundred ears of all of them lay quite flat, pinned to their necks as a desperate pirate might nail his colours to the mast, while deep unutterable hate and dogged resolution gleamed from every eye.
They were ranged along the sides of the ship in two rows. The rows had been full all the voyage, but when I saw them, half the animals had been got on shore, so that there was plenty of room for the remnant to career about and kick defiance56 at their human persecutors. What charmed me most was not the triumph of intelligence over brute57 force, but the application of brute force on both sides, with just sufficient mechanical addition on the part of the men to render their power irresistible58.
When I entered the hold, the stench of which was almost overpowering, I could see nothing in the dim light, but I could hear the wild clattering59 of hoofs60 on wooden floors, the little shrieks of irrepressible fury, and the deep firmly uttered command—such as:—
“Now, then, Dick, look out!”
“Grab ’im!”
“Dig into ’im!”
“Twist ’is tail!”
“That’s it!”
“Hup!”
My eyes soon becoming accustomed to the dim light, I saw a trembling mule3 in the embrace of three men. It trembled with passion only. One had passed a stout61 sheet under it. Next moment there was an order to “hoist away,” and the mule went past me, with rigid62 limbs, high into the air, whence it was lowered I could not see whither, and disappeared.
Meanwhile the three men went viciously at another animal. They were unusually strong men, with immense chests, and brawny63 arms bared to the shoulders. They panted and perspired64 freely, and had been severely65 dishevelled by their recent struggles.
I saw the dim outline of a mule, in the dark recesses66 of the hold to which he had retired67, crushing his companions against the bulk-heads of the ship. He evidently knew that his hour was come.
To this demon68 Dick advanced with a short rope in his hand. The mule eyed him with a gleam of malice69. Its ears became, if possible, flatter. Dick made a loop on the rope, and leaning over the breast-high barricade70 between him and his adversary71 made a cast after the manner of South Americans, but the mule jerked his head aside, and the lasso missed him. While Dick was preparing for another cast, Tom came up behind him with a sly motion. The mule observed Tom, let fly both heels with a tremendous crash on the barrier, and bolted to the other end of the ship. There Harry72 met him with a stick, and turned him back whence he came.
Again Dick advanced, made a successful cast, and drew the noose73 tight. For a few moments a perfect shower of kicks was delivered at the barrier and on the sides of the ship, but the three men did not wait till the creature was exhausted74: they had no time for that. Two of them hauled the mule’s head by main force to the edge of the barrier, the third leaning far over caught its tail, and instantly drew it broadside on. It was still some distance from the spot under the hatchway where the band and tackle were to be attached. Towards this Tom and Dick dragged the beast by the head, while Harry assisted with the tail. No power on earth could have made that mule walk! With its ears back and all its legs planted stiffly forward, it was made to slide in the required direction by main force. The place of execution reached, Dick jammed its head against the barrier, Tom hauled its tail taut75 over the same and made fast. There was no intentional76 cruelty in their actions, but difficult work had to be quickly done, and they could not afford to be squeamish. Obstinate77 violence had to be overcome by resolute78 vigour79. The mule was now helplessly fixed80, with its tongue hanging out and its eyes protruding81. Nevertheless, in that condition it continued, without ceasing, to struggle and try to kick, and flatten82 its ears. It was a magnificent exhibition of determination to resist to the very death!—a glorious quality when exercised in a good cause, thought I—my mind reverting83 to patriots84 and martyrs85.
Meanwhile Harry had passed the broad band under the mule, drawn it over its back, and attached the big hook to it. The signal was given to the men who managed the tackle on deck, and the animal bounded into empty space.
It was at that moment I made the discovery that a mule’s spirit resides in its legs. Its last act on earth, before leaving, was to deliver a concentrated double-kick at the barrier, but the instant it found itself in air its flattened86 ears sprung up with an air of horrified87 astonishment88, and all its legs hung straight and rigid, the four hoofs coming together as if in abject89 supplication90 to any one, or anything, that could deliver. Not the smallest effort did it make; not a trace of self-will did it display, while it shot upwards91 through the hatchway nearly to the yard-arm, whence it obtained its first bird’s-eye view of Capetown docks. For one moment it hung, while it was being swung over the quay92, whither it was lowered, and its feet once more came in contact with mother-earth. Then, but not till then, did the disease of its limbs depart, and the spirit of its ears and heels return. With a bound it sprang into the air, but, before it had time to think, a human enemy caught its rope, and drew its head tight to an iron post. Another such enemy cast off the broad band and tackle, and the creature was suddenly let go free. Its final act was to flourish its heels in the air, and utter a squeal93 of rage as it trotted94 into the midst of a group of its kindred which had already been treated in the same way.
A spirited literary commencement—the publication of newspapers—under men of great ability and high principle, bade fair to inaugurate an era of progress that might have quickly led the colony to a far greater height of moral, mental, and, by consequence, physical prosperity than it has ever yet attained95; but a long struggle for freedom of the press followed, and in 1828 this freedom was secured. The sparkling streams thus set free have flowed and waxed in volume ever since.
There is a custom-house at Capetown. It is not because of being one of the noteworthy buildings of the port that I mention it, but because of its having been to me a personal nuisance on the occasion of my arrival in the colony. A fellow-passenger had informed me—whether rightly or wrongly I knew not and cared not—that watches, jewellery, and guns, were among the taxable articles. Knowing that my portmanteau contained no such articles, except a brass96 watch-guard, I presented myself to the official with an air of conscious innocence97. I had hoped that, like many such officials in France and elsewhere, he would have been content with an assurance that I had “nothing to declare” and the offer of my keys, but I was mistaken. This particular official was perhaps a “new broom.” It may be that he had caught some smugglers not long before, and the excitement had not yet worn off. At all events, instead of allowing me to pass he ordered me to open my portmanteau.
While I was engaged in doing so he opened my shoulder-bag and eyed its contents curiously98. They were not numerous. He found nothing contraband99, and appearing somewhat disappointed applied100 his nose to it.
“It has a queer smell,” he remarked.
As the bag had frequently done duty at picnics and been loaded with flasks101 and sandwiches, I was not surprised. Besides, it occurred to me that no tax was levied102 on “queer smells,” though such a tax might have been, with advantage, levied on the town itself. It would certainly have produced an immense revenue. I smiled, however, in a pleasant manner and said nothing.
Having shut the bag this official opened the portmanteau, and began to examine each article in a way that would have rendered it probable he might have finished sometime within the next twenty-four hours. He slowly turned over my shirts and flannels103 as if he expected to find mines of jewellery in the folds thereof. Suddenly he came on the brass chain and his eye glittered, which was more than the chain did. It had to be re-deposited with a sigh. I began to grow despairing. Presently he took up a book and opened it. Was he going to refresh himself with a chapter? His turning over the leaves very slowly gave reason for the suspicion. Or did the obtuse104 creature expect to find watches and gun-barrels between the leaves? At last he shut the book, and, laying it down, proceeded to exhume105 a morning coat.
At this point one of his superiors told him that that was enough, to my immense relief, and the too-conscientious official allowed me to re-pack and lock-up my property.
Note 1. The Parliament of the union of South Africa meets at Capetown, but Pretoria is now the seat of the union Government.
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1
cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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gale
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| n.大风，强风，一阵闹声（尤指笑声等） | |
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swoops
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| 猛扑，突然下降( swoop的名词复数 ) | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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foe
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| n.敌人，仇敌 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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hurls
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| v.猛投，用力掷( hurl的第三人称单数 )；大声叫骂 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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shriek
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| v./n.尖叫，叫喊 | |
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doomed
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| 命定的 | |
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ecstasy
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| n.狂喜，心醉神怡，入迷 | |
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onset
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| n.进攻，袭击，开始，突然开始 | |
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twigs
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| 细枝，嫩枝( twig的名词复数 ) | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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repose
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| v.(使)休息；n.安息 | |
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battalions
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| n.（陆军的）一营（大约有一千兵士）( battalion的名词复数 )；协同作战的部队；军队；（组织在一起工作的）队伍 | |
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shrieks
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| n.尖叫声( shriek的名词复数 )v.尖叫( shriek的第三人称单数 ) | |
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lashes
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| n.鞭挞( lash的名词复数 )；鞭子；突然猛烈的一击；急速挥动v.鞭打( lash的第三人称单数 )；煽动；紧系；怒斥 | |
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rattles
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| （使）发出格格的响声， （使）作嘎嘎声( rattle的第三人称单数 )； 喋喋不休地说话； 迅速而嘎嘎作响地移动，堕下或走动； 使紧张，使恐惧 | |
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bonnets
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| n.童帽( bonnet的名词复数 )；（烟囱等的）覆盖物；（苏格兰男子的）无边呢帽；（女子戴的）任何一种帽子 | |
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26
pebbles
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| [复数]鹅卵石； 沙砾； 卵石，小圆石( pebble的名词复数 ) | |
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pelted
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| （连续地）投掷( pelt的过去式和过去分词 )； 连续抨击； 攻击； 剥去…的皮 | |
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shipping
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| n.船运（发货，运输，乘船） | |
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seething
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| 沸腾的，火热的 | |
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indigo
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| n.靛青，靛蓝 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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clearance
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| n.净空；许可(证)；清算；清除，清理 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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mansions
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| n.宅第，公馆，大厦( mansion的名词复数 ) | |
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verdant
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| adj.翠绿的，青翠的，生疏的，不老练的 | |
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prolific
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| adj.丰富的，大量的；多产的，富有创造力的 | |
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undoubtedly
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| adv.确实地，无疑地 | |
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peculiarity
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| n.独特性，特色；特殊的东西；怪癖 | |
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bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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gems
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| growth； economy； management； and customer satisfaction 增长 | |
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proximity
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| n.接近，邻近 | |
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satire
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| n.讽刺，讽刺文学，讽刺作品 | |
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mercurial
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| adj.善变的，活泼的 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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brooks
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| n.小溪( brook的名词复数 ) | |
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rivulets
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| n.小河，小溪( rivulet的名词复数 ) | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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supreme
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| adj.极度的，最重要的；至高的，最高的 | |
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sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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obstinacy
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| n.顽固；（病痛等）难治 | |
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defiance
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| n.挑战，挑衅，蔑视，违抗 | |
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brute
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| n.野兽，兽性 | |
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irresistible
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| adj.非常诱人的，无法拒绝的，无法抗拒的 | |
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clattering
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| 发出咔哒声（clatter的现在分词形式） | |
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hoofs
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| n.（兽的）蹄，马蹄( hoof的名词复数 )v.（兽的）蹄，马蹄( hoof的第三人称单数 ) | |
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rigid
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| adj.严格的，死板的；刚硬的，僵硬的 | |
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brawny
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| adj.强壮的 | |
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perspired
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| v.出汗，流汗( perspire的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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recesses
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| n.壁凹( recess的名词复数 )；（工作或业务活动的）中止或暂停期间；学校的课间休息；某物内部的凹形空间v.把某物放在墙壁的凹处( recess的第三人称单数 )；将（墙）做成凹形，在（墙）上做壁龛；休息，休会，休庭 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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demon
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| n.魔鬼，恶魔 | |
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malice
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| n.恶意，怨恨，蓄意；[律]预谋 | |
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barricade
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| n.路障，栅栏，障碍；vt.设路障挡住 | |
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adversary
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| adj.敌手，对手 | |
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harry
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| vt.掠夺，蹂躏，使苦恼 | |
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noose
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| n.绳套，绞索（刑）；v.用套索捉；使落入圈套；处以绞刑 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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taut
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| adj.拉紧的，绷紧的，紧张的 | |
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intentional
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| adj.故意的，有意（识）的 | |
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obstinate
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| adj.顽固的，倔强的，不易屈服的，较难治愈的 | |
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resolute
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| adj.坚决的，果敢的 | |
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vigour
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| （=vigor）n.智力，体力，精力 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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protruding
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| v.（使某物）伸出，（使某物）突出( protrude的现在分词 )；凸 | |
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flatten
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| v.把．．．弄平，使倒伏；使(漆等)失去光泽 | |
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reverting
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| 恢复( revert的现在分词 )； 重提； 回到…上； 归还 | |
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patriots
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| 爱国者，爱国主义者( patriot的名词复数 ) | |
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martyrs
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| n.martyr的复数形式；烈士( martyr的名词复数 )；殉道者；殉教者；乞怜者（向人诉苦以博取同情） | |
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flattened
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| [医]（水）平扁的，弄平的 | |
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horrified
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| a.(表现出)恐惧的 | |
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astonishment
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| n.惊奇，惊异 | |
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abject
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| adj.极可怜的，卑屈的 | |
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supplication
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| n.恳求，祈愿，哀求 | |
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upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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quay
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| n.码头，靠岸处 | |
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squeal
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| v.发出长而尖的声音；n.长而尖的声音 | |
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trotted
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| 小跑，急走( trot的过去分词 )； 匆匆忙忙地走 | |
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attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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innocence
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| n.无罪；天真；无害 | |
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curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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contraband
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| n.违禁品，走私品 | |
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applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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flasks
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| n.瓶，长颈瓶， 烧瓶( flask的名词复数 ) | |
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levied
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| 征（兵）( levy的过去式和过去分词 )； 索取； 发动（战争）； 征税 | |
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flannels
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| 法兰绒男裤； 法兰绒( flannel的名词复数 ) | |
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obtuse
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| adj.钝的；愚钝的 | |
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exhume
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| v.掘出，挖掘 | |
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