Lavinia took the lead from the moment they landed at St. Catherine's Warf; and though somewhat demoralized by a rough passage of[Pg 266] eighteen hours from Antwerp, was equal to the occasion. She did love England, and thought London the most delightful5 city in the world, next to Boston. Its mud and fog were dear to her; its beef and beer were nectar and ambrosia6, after the continental7 slops and messes; its steady-going, respectable citizens, beautiful in her eyes, and the words 'home' and' comfort' were not an idle mockery here.
Therefore the old lady joyfully8 sniffed9 the smoky air, gazed with tenderness on the grimy houses, and cast herself, metaphorically10 speaking, into the arms of a stout12, ruddy-faced porter, as if at last she had found a man and a brother.
Nobly did the burly Briton repay her confidence and earn the shilling which in England makes all things possible. He bore them to the station, got tickets, checked luggage, put the ladies in a first-class compartment13, gave them[Pg 267] all necessary directions about the hotel they were after, and when the bell rang touched his cap with a smile upon his dear, red face, which caused Lavinia to add a sixpence to the shilling she gave him with a mental blessing14.
'This is truly a decent country. See how well one is cared for, how civil everybody is, how honest, how manly,' began Livy, as she mounted her hobby, and prepared for a canter over the prejudices of her friend; for Amanda detested15 England because she knew nothing of it.
'The cabman cheated us, asking double fares,' replied the dear girl, wrapping herself in many cloaks and refusing to admire the fog.
'Not at all,' cried Livy; 'the trunks were immense, and you'll find we shall have to pay extra for them everywhere. It is the same as having them weighed and paying for the pounds,[Pg 268] only this saves much time and trouble. Look at the handsome guard in his silver-plated harness. How much nicer he is than a gabbling Italian, or a Frenchman who compliments you one minute and behaves like a brute16 the next! It does my soul good to see the clean, rosy17 faces, and hear good English instead of gibberish.'
'Never in my life have I seen such tall, fine-looking men, only they are all fair, which isn't my style,' observed Matilda, with a secret sigh for the dark-eyed heroes from Turin.
Thus conversing18, they soon came to the G—— Hotel just at the end of the railway, and without going out of the station found themselves settled in comfortable rooms.
'Regard, if you please, these toilette arrangements—two sorts of bath-pan, two cans of cold water, one of hot, two big pitchers19, much soap,[Pg 269] and six towels about the size of table-cloths. I call that an improvement on the continental cup, saucer, and napkin accommodation,' said Lavinia, proudly displaying a wash-stand that looked like a dinner-table laid for a dozen, such was the display of glass, china, and napery.
'The English certainly are a clean people,' replied Amanda, softening20 a little as she remembered her fruitless efforts to find a bath-pan in Brittany, where the people said the drought was caused by the English using so much water.
'They need more appliances for cleanliness than any other race, because they live in such a dirty country,' began Matilda, removing the soot21 from her face in flakes22.
What more she might have said is unknown; for Livy closed her mouth with a big sponge, and all retired to repose after the trials of the past night.
[Pg 270]
'Now, my dears, you shall have food fit for Christian23 women to eat. No weak soup, no sour wine, no veal24 stewed25 with raisins26, nor greasy27 salad made of all the weeds that grow. Beef that will make you feel like giants, and beer that will cheer the cockles of your hearts; not to mention cheese which will make you wink28, and bread with a little round button atop of the loaf like the grand Panjandrum in the old story.'
Thus Lavinia enthusiastically, as she led her flock of two into the eating-room at luncheon29 time. Being seated at a little table by one of the great windows, the old lady continued to sing the praises of Britannia while wafting30 for the repast.
'Isn't this better than a stone-floored café with nine clocks all wrong, seven mirrors all cracked, much drapery all dirty, a flock of garçons who fly about like lunatics, and food[Pg 271] which I shudder31 to think of? Look at this lofty room; this grave thick carpet; that cheerful coal-fire; these neat little tables; these large, clean windows; these quiet, ministerial waiters, who seem to take a paternal32 interest in your wants, and best of all in this simple, wholesome33, well-cooked food.'
Here the arrival of a glorified34 beefsteak and a shining pint-pot of foaming35 ale give an appropriate finish to Livy's lecture. She fell upon her lunch like a famished36 woman, and was speechless till much meat had vanished, and the ale was low in the pot.
'It is good,' admitted Amanda, who took to her beer like a born Englishwoman, and swallowed some of her prejudices with her delicious beef.
'It's such a comfort to know that I am not eating a calf's brains or a pig's feet, that I can[Pg 272] enjoy it with a free mind, and the sight of those two beautiful old gentlemen gives it an added relish,' said Matilda, who had been watching a pair of hale old fellows eat their lunch in a solid, leisurely37 way that would have been impossible to an American.
'It is so restful to see people take things calmly, and not bolt their meals, or rush about like runaway38 steam-engines. It is this moderation that keeps Englishmen so hearty39, jolly, and long-lived. They don't tear themselves to pieces as we do, but take time for rest, exercise, food, and recreation, like sensible people as they are. It is like reposing40 on a feather-bed to live here, and my tired nerves rejoice in it,' said Lavinia, eating bread and cheese as if that was her mission in life.
'A slight amount of haste will be advisable, my Granny, unless we intend to spend all our[Pg 273] substance on these restful comforts of yours. This hotel is delightfully41 cosy42, but expensive; so the quicker we go into lodgings43 the better for us,' suggested the thrifty44 Amanda, seeing that Livy was too infatuated to care for cost.
'I'll go the first thing to-morrow and look at the rooms Mrs. Blank recommended to us. This afternoon we will rest and write letters, unless some one comes to call,' said Livy, leading her girls to the reading-room, where sleep-inviting chairs, tables supplied with writing-materials, and groves45 of newspapers, wooed the stranger to repose.
Hardly were they seated, however, than Jeames brought in the card of a friend who had been told when they would arrive, and hastened at once to meet them. How pleasant is the first familiar face one sees in a strange land! Doubly pleasant was Mr. C.'s, because he brought[Pg 274] hospitable46 invitations from other friends, kind welcomes, and tickets to several of the art exhibitions then open.
Hardly had he gone, after a half-hour's chat, than another card was handed, and the name it bore caused a slight flutter in the dove-cot. A friend of Miss Livy's, in Boston, had sent orders to his brother in London to devote himself to the wandering ladies when they came. They had never met; the poor man didn't care to have his quiet invaded by strange women, and to do the honours of London is no small task: yet this heroic gentleman obeyed orders without a murmur47; and, leaving his artistic48 seclusion49, shouldered his burden with the silent courage of a Spartan50.
A grave, dark, little man, with fine eyes, quiet manners, and a straight-forward way with him that suited blunt Livy excellently. How he[Pg 275] dared to face the three unknown women so calmly, listen to their impossible suggestions so politely, and offer himself as a slave so cheerfully, will for ever remain a mystery to those grateful souls.
His first service was to pack them into a cab and bear them safely to the bankers for letters and money; and this he followed up by several weeks of servitude, which must have been worse than Egyptian bondage52.
Two more large ladies joined the party after they were settled in lodgings at Kensington; but, undaunted by the fact, this long-suffering man escorted the whole five to galleries and theatres, trips into the city, and picnics in the country; went shopping with them, lugged53 parcels, ran errands, paid bills, and was in fact the sheet-anchor of the whole party. Imagine the emotions of one shy man when called upon[Pg 276] to lead a flock of somewhat imposing54 ladies everywhere; to have two cabs full on all occasions; to be obliged to support the invalids55 to follow the caprices of the giddy, to gratify the demands of the curious, and to hear the gabble of the whole five day after day.
Bürger's Brave Man was a coward compared to him; for he not only gave his days, but his evenings also, joining in endless games of whist, drinking much weak tea, and listening to any amount of twaddle on all subjects.
The society was not such as intelligent men enjoy, being composed of two Egyptian boys and three fussy56 old ladies. One of them was immensely stout, wore a bright green cap, with half-a-pint of scarlet57 cherries bobbing on her brow. She talked on all subjects, and handed round an album full of her own poems on all occasions. The second must have been a sister[Pg 277] of 'Mr. T.'s Aunt,' so grim and incoherent was she. Sitting in the corner, she stared at the world around her with an utterly58 expressionless countenance59, and when least expected broke out with some startling remark, such as, 'If that fence had been painted green we should get to heaven sooner,' or 'Before I had fits my memory was as good as anybody's, but my daughter married a clergyman, and took it with her.'
The third antiquity60 was the hostess, a buxom61 lady, much given to gay attire62 and reminiscences of past glory, 'Before me 'usband went into public life.' The strangers innocently supposed the departed Mr. K. to have been an M.P. at least, and were rather taken aback on learning that he had been a pawnbroker63.
The Egyptian youths were handsome, dark lads, with melodious64 voices, lustrous65 eyes, and such fiery66 tempers that one never knew whether[Pg 278] they were going to pass the bread or stab one with the carving-knife.
As a slight mitigation of this slow society, the Russian from Pension Paradis appeared with his broadcloth more resplendent than ever. The ladies had seen him in Rome; but the fever scared him away, and he was now fleeing from another lodging-house, where the hostess evidently intended to marry him to her daughter, in the MacStinger fashion.
In this varied68 circle did the devoted69 being afore-mentioned pass many hours after the day's hard labour was happily over, and when anyone pitied him for leading the life of a galley-slave, he hid his anguish70 and answered with a smile,—
'My brother told me to do it, and I never disobey Tom. In fact, I find I rather like it.'
That last fib was truly sublime71, and the name of Cassabianca pales before that of one[Pg 279] who obeyed fraternal commands to the letter, and tried to love his duty, heavy as it was. If, as has been sometimes predicted, England had gone under just then, it might truly have been said,—
Though prince and peer and poet rare
Were sunk among the piles,
The noblest man who perished there
Was faithful W. N——s.
The sight-seeing fever raged fiercely at first, and the flock of Americans went from Windsor Castle to the Tower of London, from Westminster Abbey to Madame Taussaud's Waxwork72 Show, with a vigour73 that appalled74 the natives. They would visit two or three galleries in the morning, lunch at Dolly's (the dark little chop-house which Johnson, Goldsmith, and the other worthies76 used to frequent in the good old times), go to Richmond in the afternoon and dine at the 'Star and Garter,' or to Greenwich and eat[Pg 280] 'white baits fish,' as the Russian called that celebrated77 dish, and finish off the evening at some theatre, getting home at midnight, in a procession of two cabs and a hansom.
When the first excitement was over, Lavinia and Matilda took a turn at society, having friends in London. Amanda could not conquer her prejudices sufficiently78 to accompany them, and, falling back on the climate as her excuse, stayed at home and improved her mind.
'I feel now like girls in novels. You are the Duchess of Devonshire and I am Lady Maud Plantagenet, going to a ball at Buckingham Palace. I know that I was made to sit in the lap of luxury: it agrees with me so well,' said Matilda, as the two rolled away to Aubrey House in a brougham, all lamps, glass, and satin. Her long blue train lay piled up before her, the light flashed on her best Roman [Pg 281]ear-rings, her curls were in their most picturesque79 array, and—crowning joy of all—cream-coloured gloves, with six buttons, covered her arms, and filled her soul with happiness, because they were so elegant and cost so little, being bought in Rome just after the flood.
Dowager Livy responded gravely from the depths of her silver-grey silk, enlivened with pink azaleas,—
'My child, thank your stars that you are a free-born Yankee, and have no great name or state to keep up. Buckingham Palace is all very well, and I shouldn't mind calling on Mrs. Guelph, or Saxe Coburg, whichever it is, but I much prefer to be going to the house of a Radical80 M.P., who is lending a hand to all good works. Mrs. T. is a far more interesting woman to me than Victoria, for her life is spent in helping81 her fellow-creatures. I consider her[Pg 282] a model Englishwoman—simple, sincere, and accomplished82; full of good sense, intelligence, and energy. Her house is open to all, friend and stranger, black and white, rich and poor. Great men and earnest women meet there; Mazzini and Frances Power Cobbe, John Bright and Jean Ingelow, Rossetti the poet, and Elizabeth Garrett the brave little doctor. Though wealthy and living in an historical mansion83, the host is the most unassuming man in it, and the hostess the simplest dressed lady. Their money goes in other ways, and the chief ornament84 of that lovely spot is a school, where poor girls may get an education. Mrs. T. gave a piece of her own garden for it, and teaches there herself, aided by her friends, who serve the poor girls like mothers and sisters, and help to lift them up from the slough85 of despond in[Pg 283] which so many sink. That beats anything you'll find in Buckingham Palace, sister Mat.'
'If they want a drawing-teacher I'll offer myself, for I think that is regularly splendid,' said Matilda warmly, as Livy paused for breath after her harangue86.
With these new ideas in her head, Lady Maud enjoyed her party, while the Duchess revelled87 in radicals88 to her heart's content; for Aubrey House was their head-quarters, and all were out in full force. It was cheering to our spinster to find that things had moved a good deal since a former visit, five or six years before, when Mill had carried into the House of Commons a Woman's Rights petition that filled both arms. People laughed then, and the stout-hearted women laughed also, but said, 'Our next petition shall be so big it will have to go in a wheel-barrow.' Now the same[Pg 284] people talked over the question soberly, and began to think something besides fun might come of it. The pioneers rejoiced over several hard-won battles, and the scoffers came to see that the truest glory was won by those who did the hard work, and stood by a good cause when most unpopular; not by those who kept out of the field till the fight was over, and then came in to wave the flags and beat the drums over victories they had not helped to win.
'It seems to me that these Englishwomen make less noise and do more work than we Americans. I shouldn't dare to say so in public; but their quiet, orderly ways suits me better than the more demonstrative performances of my friends at home. Slow coaches as we call them, I should not be surprised if they got the suffrage89 before we did, as the tortoise won in the fable,' was Lavinia's secret thought[Pg 285] as they drove away, after a very charming evening.
Perhaps the fact that reforms of all sorts had been poured into her ears till her head was like a hive of bees, may account for this unpatriotic thought. Or it may be the pleasant effect of the healthful aspect of these English workers. Old or young, all seemed to have cheerful, well-balanced minds, in strong, healthy bodies. No one complained of her nerves, or let them unconsciously put a sharp edge to her tongue, give a blue tinge67 to the world, or sour the milk of human kindness in her heart. Less quick and bright, perhaps, than the ladies over the sea, but more womanly, and full of a quiet tenacity90 of purpose better than eloquence91.
Miss Livy's tastes being of a peculiar92 sort, and pictures having palled75 upon her to such a degree that she couldn't even look at an [Pg 286]ornamental sign-board without disgust, she often left her more artistic friends and went forth93 on excursions of her own. As she never used either map or guide book, it was a wonder how she found her way; and the infants were often on the point of sending for the city crier, if there is such a functionary94, to find the lost duenna. But old Livy always turned up at last, mud to the eyes, tired out, and more deeply impressed than ever with the charms of London.
One day she set forth to hear Spurgeon. Being told that Lambeth was a wretched quarter of the city, that the Tabernacle was two or three miles away, and very difficult to enter when found, only added zest95 to the thing, and she departed, sure of finding adventures, if not Spurgeon.
If an omnibus conductor had not befriended[Pg 287] her, she would probably have found herself at Hampstead or Chelsea, for London busses are as bewildering as London streets. Thanks to this amiable96 man, who evidently felt that the stranger in his gates needed all his care, the old lady safely reached the Elephant and Castle, and was dismissed with a moss97 rose-bud from the lips of her friend, a reassuring98 pat on the shoulder, and a paternal ''Ere yer are, my dear,' which unexpected attentions caused her to depart with speed.
There certainly was need of a Tabernacle in that quarter, for the poverty and wickedness were very dreadful. Boys not yet in their teens staggered by half-tipsy, or lounged at the doors of gin-shops. Bonnetless girls roamed about singing and squabbling. Forlorn babies played in the gutter100, and men and women in[Pg 288] every stage of raggedness101 and degradation102 marred103 the beauty of that fair Sunday morning.
Crowds were swarming104 into the Tabernacle: but, thanks to the order a friend had given her, Miss Livy was handed to a comfortable seat, with a haggard Magdalen on one side and a palsy-stricken old man on the other. Staring about her, she saw an immense building with two galleries extending round three sides, and a double sort of platform behind and below the pulpit, which was a little pen lifted high that all might see and hear.
Every seat, aisle105, window-ledge, step, and door-way, was packed with a strange congregation; all nations, all colours, all ages, and nearly all bearing the sad marks of poverty or sin. They all sung, cried out if anything affected106 or pleased them in the sermon, and listened with interest to the plain yet fervent107 words of the[Pg 289] man who has gathered together this flock of black sheep and is so faithful a shepherd to them.
Every one knows how Spurgeon looks in pictures, but in the pulpit he reminded Livy of Martin Luther. A square, florid face, stout figure, a fine keen eye, and a natural, decided108 manner, very impressive. A strong, clear voice of much dramatic power, and a way of walking the pulpit like Father Taylor.
His sermon was on 'Small Temptations,' and he illustrated109 it by facts and examples taken from real life, pointing out several of his congregation, and calling them by name, which original proceeding110 seemed to find favour with his people. He used no notes, but talked rather than preached; and leaning over the railing, urged, argued, prayed, and sang with a hearty eloquence, very effective, and decidedly refreshing111 after[Pg 290] High Church mummery abroad, and drowsy112 Unitarianism at home. Now and then he stopped to give directions for the comfort of his flock in a free and easy manner, which called up irresistible113 smiles on the faces of strangers.
'Mrs. Flacker, you'd better take that child into the ante-room: he's tired.' 'Come this way, friends: there's plenty of room.' 'Open all the windows, Manning: it's very warm.' And when a sad sort of cry interrupted him, he looked down at an old woman shaking with epilepsy, and mildly remarked, 'Don't be troubled, brethren: our sister is subject to fits,' and preached tranquilly114 on.
For two hours he held that great gathering115, in spite of heat, discomfort116, and other afflictions of the flesh, and ended by saying, in a paternal way,—
'Now remember what I've said through the[Pg 291] week, and next Sunday show me that I haven't talked in vain.'
He read a list of meetings for every night in the week. One especially struck Livy, as it was for mothers to meet and talk over with him the best ways of teaching and training their children. Spurgeon evidently does not spare his own time and strength; and whatever his creed117 may be, he is a good Christian in loving his neighbour better than himself, and doing the work his hand finds to do with all his might.
'That is a better church than most of those I enter where respectable saints have the best seats, and there is no place for sinners,' said Livy when she got home. 'Spurgeon's congregation preached more eloquently118 to me than he did. The Magdalen cried as if her heart was broken, and I am sure those tears washed some of her sins[Pg 292] away. The feeble old man looked as if he had found a staff for his trembling hands to lay hold upon, and the forlorn souls all about me, for a time at least, laid down their burdens and found rest and comfort in their Father's house. It did me more good than the preaching of all the bishops119 in London, or the finest pageant120 at St. Paul's; and I am truly glad I went, though the saucy121 conductor did smirk122 at me over the rosebud123.'
In contrast to this serious expedition, the old lady had a very jolly one not long afterward124. A certain congenial Professor asked her one day what person, place, or thing in London she most desired to see.
Clasping her hands with the energy of deep emotion, she replied,—
'The home of the immortal125 Sairy Gamp. Long ago I made a vow126, if I ever came to[Pg 293] London I'd visit that spot. Let me keep my vow.'
'You shall!' responded the Professor with a responsive ardour, which caused Livy to dive into her waterproof127 without another word.
Away they went in a pouring rain, and what people thought of the damp but enthusiastic couple who pervaded128 the city that day I can't say; I only know a merrier pair of pilgrims never visited those grimy shrines129. They met several old friends, and passed several familiar spots by the way. Major Bagstock and Cousin Phenix stared at them from a club-house window. Tigg Montague's cab dashed by them in Regent Street, more gorgeous than ever. The brothers Cheeryble went trotting130 cityward arm in arm, with a smile and ha'penny for all the beggars they met; and the Micawber family passed[Pg 294] them in a bus, going, I suppose, to accompany the blighted131 Wilkins to gaol132.
In a certain grimly genteel street they paused to stare up at a row of grimly respectable houses; for, though the name wasn't on any of the doors, they were sure Mr. Dombey still lived there. A rough dog lay on one of the doorsteps, and a curtain fluttered at an open upper window. Poor Di was growling133 in his sleep, and above there little Paul was watching for the golden water on the wall, while faithful Florence sung to him, and Susan Nipper put away derisive134 sniffs135 and winks136 in closets and behind doors for the benefit of 'them Pipchinses.'
Coming to a poorer part of the city, they met Tiny Tim tapping along on his little crutch137, passed Toby Veck at a windy street-corner, and saw all the little Tetterbys playing in the mud.
'Come down this street, and take a glimpse at[Pg 295] St. Giles's, the worst part of London,' said the Professor; and, following, Livy saw misery138 enough in five minutes to make her heart ache for the day. A policeman kept near them, saying it wasn't safe to go far there alone.
Vice51, poverty, dirt, and suffering reigned139 supreme140 within a stone's throw of one of the great thoroughfares, and made Alsatia dangerous ground for respectable feet. Here, too, they saw familiar phantoms141: poor Jo, perpetually moving on; and little Oliver led by Nancy, with a shawl over her head and a black eye; Bill Sykes, lounging in a doorway142, looking more ruffianly than ever; and the Artful Dodger143, who kept his eye on them as two hopeful 'plants' with profitable pockets ready for him.
They soon had enough of this, and hurried on along High Holborn, till they came to Kingsgate Street, so like the description that I am[Pg 296] sure Dickens must have been there and taken notes. They knew the house in a moment: there were the two dingy144 windows over the bird-shop; the checked curtains were drawn145, but of course the bottomless bandboxes, the wooden pippins, green umbrella, and portrait of Miss Harris were all behind them. It seemed so real that they quite expected to see a red, snuffy old face appear, and to hear a drowsy voice exclaim: 'Drat that bell: I'm a coming. Don't tell me it's Mrs. Wilkins, without even a pincushion prepared.'
While Livy stood gazing in silent satisfaction (merely regretting that the name on the door was Pendergast, not Sweedle-pipes), the Professor turned to a woman, and asked with admirable gravity, 'Can you tell me where Mrs. Gamp lives?'
'What's her business?' demanded the matron, with interest.
[Pg 297]
'A nurse, ma'am.'
'Is she a little fat woman?'
'Fat, decidedly, and old,' returned the Professor, without a smile on his somewhat cherubic countenance.
'Well, she lives No. 5, round the corner.'
On receiving this unexpected reply, they looked at one another in comic dismay; but would certainly have gone to No. 5, and taken a look at the modern Sairy, if the woman hadn't called out as they moved on—
'I b'lieve that nuss's name is Britiain, not Gamp; but you can ask.'
Murmuring a hasty 'thank you,' they fled precipitately146 round the corner, and there enjoyed a glorious laugh under an umbrella, to the great amazement147 of all beholders.
Being on a Dickens pilgrimage, they went to Furnival's Inn, where he wrote 'Pickwick' in a three-story room, and read it to the old porter.[Pg 298] The same old porter told them all about it, and quite revelled in the remembrance. It did one's heart good to see the stiff, dried-up old fellow thaw148 and glow with the recollection of the handsome young man who was kind to him long ago, before the world had found him out.
'Did you think the book would be famous when he read it to you in 1834, as you say?' asked the Professor, beaming at him in a way that would have melted the heart of the stiff-tailed lion of the Northumberlands, if he'd possessed149 such an organ.
'O dear, yes, sir; I felt sure it would be summat good, it made me laugh so. He didn't think much of it; but I know a good thing when I see it;' and the old man gave an important nod, as if all the credit of the blessed 'Pickwick' belonged to him. 'He married Miss Hogarth while livin' here; and you can see the[Pg 299] room, if you like,' he added, with a burst of hospitality, as the almighty150 sixpence touched his palm.
Up they went, over the worn stairs; and, finding the door locked, solemnly touched the brass151 knob, read the name 'Ed Peck' on the plate, and wiped their feet on a very dirty mat. It was ridiculous, of course; but hero-worship is not the worst of modern follies152, and when one's hero has won from the world some of its heartiest153 smiles and tears, one may be forgiven for a little sentiment in a dark entry.
Next they went to the Saracen's Head, where Mr. Squeers stopped when in London. The odd old place looked as if it hadn't changed a particle. There was the wooden gallery outside, where the chamber-maids stood to see the coach off; the archway under which poor Nicholas drove that cold morning; the[Pg 300] office, or bar, where the miserable154 little boys shivered while they took alternate sips155 out of one mug, and bolted hunches156 of bread and butter as Squeers 'nagged157' them in private and talked to them like a father in public. Livy was tempted158 to bring away a little porter-pot hanging outside the door, as a trophy159; but fearing Squeers's squint160 eye was upon her, she refrained, and took a muddy pebble161 instead.
They took a peep at the Temple and its garden. The fountain was not playing, but it looked very pleasant, nevertheless; and as they stood there the sun came out, as if anxious that they should see it at its best. It was all very well to know that Shakespeare's 'Twelfth Night' was played in Middle Temple Hall, that the York and Lancaster roses grew here, that Dr. Johnson lived No. 1 Inner Temple Lane, and that Goldsmith died No. 2 Brick[Pg 301] Court, Middle Temple; these actual events and people seemed far less real than the scenes between Pendennis and Fanny, John Westlock and little Ruth Pinch. For their sakes Livy went to see the place; and for their sakes she still remembers that green spot in the heart of London, with the June sunshine falling on it as it fell that day.
The pilgrimage ended with a breathless climb up the Monument, whence they got a fine view of London, and better still of Todgerses. Livy found the house by instinct; and saw Cherry Pecksniff, now a sharp-nosed old woman, sitting at the back window. A gaunt, anxious-looking lady, in a massive bonnet99, crossed the yard, with a basket in her hand; and the Professor said at once, 'That's Mrs. Todgers, and the amount of gravy162 single gentlemen eat is still weighing heavy on her mind.' As if to make[Pg 302] the thing quite perfect, they discovered fitful glimpses of a tousled-looking boy, cleaning knives or boots, in a cellar-kitchen; and all the lawyers in London couldn't have argued them out of their firm belief that it was young Bailey, undergoing his daily torment163 in company with the black beetles164 and the mouldy bottles.
That nothing might be wanting to finish off the rainy-day ramble165 in an appropriate manner, when Livy's companion asked what she'd have for lunch, she boldly replied,—
'Weal pie and a pot of porter.'
As she was not fond of either, it was a sure proof of the sincerity166 of her regard for the persons who have made them immortal. They went into an eating-house, and ordered the lunch, finding themselves objects of interest to the other guests. But, though a walking doormat in point of mud, and somewhat flushed and[Pg 303] excited by the hustling167, climbing, and adoring, it is certain there wasn't a happier spinster in this 'Piljin Projess of a wale,' than the one who partook of 'weal pie' in memory of Sam Weller, and drank 'a modest quencher168' to the health of Dick Swiveller at the end of that delightful Dickens day.
Much might be written about the domestic pleasures of English people, but as the compiler of this interesting work believes in the sacredness of private life, and has a holy horror of the dreadful people who outrage169 hospitality by basely reporting all they have seen and heard, she will practise what she preaches, and firmly resist the temptation to describe the delights of country strolls with poets, cosey five-o'clock teas in famous drawing-rooms, and interviews with persons whose names are household words.
This virtuous170 reticence171 leaves the best untold,[Pg 304] and brings the story of two of our travellers to a speedy end. Matilda decided to remain and study art, spending her days copying Turner at the National Gallery, and her evenings in the society of the eight agreeable gentlemen who adorned172 the house where she abode173.
Amanda hurried home with friends to enjoy a festive174 summer among the verdant175 plains of Cape176 Cod177. With deep regret did her mates bid her adieu, and nothing but the certainty of soon embracing her again would have reconciled Livy to the parting; for in Amanda she had found that rare and precious treasure, a friend.
'Addio, my beloved Granny; take care of your dear bones and come home soon,' said Amanda, in the little back entry, while her luggage was being precipitated178 downstairs.
'Heaven bless and keep you safe, my own[Pg 305] Possum. I shall not stay long because I can't possibly get on without you,' moaned Livy, clinging to the departing treasure as Diogenes might have clung to his honest man, if he ever found him; for, with better luck than the old philosopher, Livy had searched long years for a friend to her mind, and got one at last.
'Don't be sentimental179, girls' said Matilda, with tears in her eyes, as she hugged her Mandy, and bore her to the cab.
'London and Turner!' shouted Matilda with her answering war-cry.
Then three damp pocket-handkerchiefs waved wildly till the dingy cab with the dear Egyptian nose at the window, and the little[Pg 306] bath-pan clattering184 frantically185 up aloft, vanished round the corner, leaving a void behind that all Europe could not fill.
A few weeks later Livy followed, leaving Mat to enjoy the liberty with which American girls may be trusted when they have a purpose or a profession to keep them steady. And so ended the travels of the trio, travels which had filled a year with valuable experiences, memorable186 days, and that culture which a larger knowledge of the world, our fellow-men, and ourselves gives to the fortunate souls to whom this pleasure is permitted.
One point was satisfactorily proved by the successful issue of this partnership187; for, in spite of many prophecies to the contrary, three women, utterly unlike in every respect, had lived happily together for twelve long months, had travelled unprotected safely over land and[Pg 307] sea, had experienced two revolutions, an earthquake, an eclipse, and a flood, yet met with no loss, no mishap188, no quarrel, and no disappointment worth mentioning.
With this triumphant189 statement as a moral to our tale, we would respectfully advise all timid sisters now lingering doubtfully on the shore, to strap190 up their bundles in light marching order, and push boldly off. They will need no protector but their own courage, no guide but their own good sense and Yankee wit, and no interpreter, if that woman's best gift, the tongue, has a little French polish on it.
Dear Amandas, Matildas, and Lavinias, why delay? Wait on no man, but take your little store and invest it in something far better than Paris finery, Geneva jewellery, or Roman relics191. Bring home empty trunks, if you will, but heads full of new and larger ideas, hearts[Pg 308] richer in the sympathy that makes the whole world kin11, hands readier to help on the great work God gives humanity, and souls elevated by the wonders of art and the diviner miracles of Nature.
Leave ennui192 and discontent, frivolity193 and feebleness, among the ruins of the Old World, and bring home to the New the grace, the culture, and the health which will make American women what now they just fail of being, the bravest, brightest, happiest, and handsomest women in the world.
The End
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1
repose
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| v.(使)休息；n.安息 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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erect
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| n./v.树立，建立，使竖立；adj.直立的，垂直的 | |
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gratitude
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| adj.感激，感谢 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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ambrosia
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| n.神的食物；蜂食 | |
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continental
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| adj.大陆的，大陆性的，欧洲大陆的 | |
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joyfully
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| adv. 喜悦地, 高兴地 | |
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sniffed
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| v.以鼻吸气，嗅，闻( sniff的过去式和过去分词 )；抽鼻子（尤指哭泣、患感冒等时出声地用鼻子吸气）；抱怨，不以为然地说 | |
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metaphorically
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| adv. 用比喻地 | |
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kin
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| n.家族，亲属，血缘关系；adj.亲属关系的，同类的 | |
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compartment
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| n.卧车包房，隔间；分隔的空间 | |
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blessing
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| n.祈神赐福；祷告；祝福，祝愿 | |
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15
detested
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| v.憎恶，嫌恶，痛恨( detest的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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brute
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| n.野兽，兽性 | |
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rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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conversing
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| v.交谈，谈话( converse的现在分词 ) | |
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19
pitchers
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| 大水罐( pitcher的名词复数 ) | |
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20
softening
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| 变软，软化 | |
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21
soot
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| n.煤烟，烟尘；vt.熏以煤烟 | |
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flakes
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| 小薄片( flake的名词复数 )； （尤指）碎片； 雪花； 古怪的人 | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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veal
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| n.小牛肉 | |
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stewed
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| adj.焦虑不安的，烂醉的v.炖( stew的过去式和过去分词 )；煨；思考；担忧 | |
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raisins
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| n.葡萄干( raisin的名词复数 ) | |
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greasy
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| adj. 多脂的，油脂的 | |
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28
wink
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| n.眨眼，使眼色，瞬间；v.眨眼，使眼色，闪烁 | |
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luncheon
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| n.午宴，午餐，便宴 | |
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wafting
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| v.吹送，飘送，（使）浮动( waft的现在分词 ) | |
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shudder
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| v.战粟，震动，剧烈地摇晃；n.战粟，抖动 | |
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32
paternal
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| adj.父亲的，像父亲的，父系的，父方的 | |
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wholesome
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| adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的 | |
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glorified
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| 美其名的，变荣耀的 | |
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foaming
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| adj.布满泡沫的；发泡 | |
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famished
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| adj.饥饿的 | |
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37
leisurely
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| adj.悠闲的；从容的，慢慢的 | |
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runaway
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| n.逃走的人，逃亡，亡命者；adj.逃亡的，逃走的 | |
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hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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40
reposing
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| v.将（手臂等）靠在某人（某物）上( repose的现在分词 ) | |
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41
delightfully
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| 大喜，欣然 | |
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42
cosy
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| adj.温暖而舒适的，安逸的 | |
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43
lodgings
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| n. 出租的房舍, 寄宿舍 | |
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44
thrifty
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| adj.节俭的；兴旺的；健壮的 | |
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groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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46
hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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murmur
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| n.低语，低声的怨言；v.低语，低声而言 | |
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artistic
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| adj.艺术(家)的，美术(家)的；善于艺术创作的 | |
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49
seclusion
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| n.隐遁，隔离 | |
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50
spartan
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| adj.简朴的，刻苦的；n.斯巴达；斯巴达式的人 | |
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51
vice
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| n.坏事；恶习；[pl.]台钳，老虎钳；adj.副的 | |
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52
bondage
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| n.奴役，束缚 | |
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53
lugged
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| vt.用力拖拉（lug的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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54
imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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55
invalids
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| 病人，残疾者( invalid的名词复数 ) | |
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56
fussy
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| adj.为琐事担忧的，过分装饰的，爱挑剔的 | |
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57
scarlet
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| n.深红色，绯红色，红衣；adj.绯红色的 | |
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58
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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59
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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60
antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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61
buxom
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| adj.（妇女）丰满的，有健康美的 | |
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62
attire
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| v.穿衣，装扮[同]array；n.衣着；盛装 | |
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63
pawnbroker
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| n.典当商，当铺老板 | |
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64
melodious
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| adj.旋律美妙的，调子优美的，音乐性的 | |
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65
lustrous
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| adj.有光泽的；光辉的 | |
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66
fiery
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| adj.燃烧着的，火红的；暴躁的；激烈的 | |
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67
tinge
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| vt.(较淡)着色于，染色；使带有…气息；n.淡淡色彩，些微的气息 | |
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68
varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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69
devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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70
anguish
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| n.(尤指心灵上的)极度痛苦，烦恼 | |
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71
sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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72
waxwork
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| n.蜡像 | |
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73
vigour
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| （=vigor）n.智力，体力，精力 | |
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74
appalled
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| v.使惊骇，使充满恐惧( appall的过去式和过去分词)adj.惊骇的；丧胆的 | |
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75
palled
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| v.（因过多或过久而）生厌，感到乏味，厌烦( pall的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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76
worthies
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| 应得某事物( worthy的名词复数 )； 值得做某事； 可尊敬的； 有（某人或事物）的典型特征 | |
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77
celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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78
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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79
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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80
radical
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| n.激进份子，原子团，根号；adj.根本的，激进的，彻底的 | |
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81
helping
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| n.食物的一份&adj.帮助人的，辅助的 | |
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82
accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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83
mansion
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| n.大厦，大楼；宅第 | |
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84
ornament
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| v.装饰，美化；n.装饰，装饰物 | |
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85
slough
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| v.蜕皮，脱落，抛弃 | |
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86
harangue
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| n.慷慨冗长的训话，言辞激烈的讲话 | |
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87
revelled
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| v.作乐( revel的过去式和过去分词 )；狂欢；着迷；陶醉 | |
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88
radicals
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| n.激进分子( radical的名词复数 )；根基；基本原理；[数学]根数 | |
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89
suffrage
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| n.投票，选举权，参政权 | |
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90
tenacity
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| n.坚韧 | |
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91
eloquence
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| n.雄辩；口才，修辞 | |
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92
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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93
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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94
functionary
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| n.官员；公职人员 | |
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95
zest
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| n.乐趣；滋味，风味；兴趣 | |
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96
amiable
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| adj.和蔼可亲的，友善的，亲切的 | |
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moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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98
reassuring
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| a.使人消除恐惧和疑虑的，使人放心的 | |
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99
bonnet
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| n.无边女帽；童帽 | |
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100
gutter
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| n.沟，街沟，水槽，檐槽，贫民窟 | |
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101
raggedness
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| 破烂，粗糙 | |
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102
degradation
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| n.降级；低落；退化；陵削；降解；衰变 | |
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103
marred
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| adj. 被损毁, 污损的 | |
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104
swarming
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| 密集( swarm的现在分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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105
aisle
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| n.（教堂、教室、戏院等里的）过道，通道 | |
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106
affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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107
fervent
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| adj.热的，热烈的，热情的 | |
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108
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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109
illustrated
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| adj. 有插图的，列举的 动词illustrate的过去式和过去分词 | |
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110
proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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111
refreshing
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| adj.使精神振作的，使人清爽的，使人喜欢的 | |
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112
drowsy
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| adj.昏昏欲睡的，令人发困的 | |
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113
irresistible
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| adj.非常诱人的，无法拒绝的，无法抗拒的 | |
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114
tranquilly
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| adv. 宁静地 | |
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115
gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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116
discomfort
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| n.不舒服，不安，难过，困难，不方便 | |
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117
creed
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| n.信条；信念，纲领 | |
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118
eloquently
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| adv. 雄辩地(有口才地, 富于表情地) | |
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119
bishops
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| （基督教某些教派管辖大教区的）主教( bishop的名词复数 )； （国际象棋的）象 | |
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120
pageant
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| n.壮观的游行；露天历史剧 | |
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121
saucy
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| adj.无礼的；俊俏的；活泼的 | |
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122
smirk
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| n.得意地笑；v.傻笑；假笑着说 | |
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123
rosebud
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| n.蔷薇花蕾，妙龄少女 | |
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124
afterward
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| adv.后来；以后 | |
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125
immortal
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| adj.不朽的；永生的，不死的；神的 | |
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126
vow
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| n.誓(言)，誓约；v.起誓，立誓 | |
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127
waterproof
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| n.防水材料；adj.防水的；v.使...能防水 | |
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128
pervaded
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| v.遍及，弥漫( pervade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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129
shrines
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| 圣地，圣坛，神圣场所( shrine的名词复数 ) | |
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130
trotting
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| 小跑，急走( trot的现在分词 )； 匆匆忙忙地走 | |
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131
blighted
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| adj.枯萎的，摧毁的 | |
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132
gaol
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| n.(jail)监狱；(不加冠词)监禁；vt.使…坐牢 | |
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133
growling
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| n.吠声, 咆哮声 v.怒吠, 咆哮, 吼 | |
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134
derisive
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| adj.嘲弄的 | |
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135
sniffs
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| v.以鼻吸气，嗅，闻( sniff的第三人称单数 )；抽鼻子（尤指哭泣、患感冒等时出声地用鼻子吸气）；抱怨，不以为然地说 | |
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136
winks
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| v.使眼色( wink的第三人称单数 )；递眼色（表示友好或高兴等）；（指光）闪烁；闪亮 | |
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137
crutch
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| n.T字形拐杖；支持，依靠，精神支柱 | |
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138
misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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139
reigned
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| vi.当政，统治（reign的过去式形式） | |
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140
supreme
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| adj.极度的，最重要的；至高的，最高的 | |
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141
phantoms
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| n.鬼怪，幽灵( phantom的名词复数 ) | |
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142
doorway
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| n.门口，(喻)入门；门路，途径 | |
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143
dodger
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| n.躲避者；躲闪者；广告单 | |
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144
dingy
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| adj.昏暗的，肮脏的 | |
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145
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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146
precipitately
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| adv.猛进地 | |
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147
amazement
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| n.惊奇，惊讶 | |
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148
thaw
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| v.（使）融化，（使）变得友善；n.融化，缓和 | |
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149
possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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150
almighty
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| adj.全能的，万能的；很大的，很强的 | |
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151
brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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152
follies
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| 罪恶，时事讽刺剧； 愚蠢，蠢笨，愚蠢的行为、思想或做法( folly的名词复数 ) | |
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153
heartiest
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| 亲切的( hearty的最高级 )； 热诚的； 健壮的； 精神饱满的 | |
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154
miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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155
sips
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| n.小口喝，一小口的量( sip的名词复数 )v.小口喝，呷，抿( sip的第三人称单数 ) | |
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156
hunches
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| 预感，直觉( hunch的名词复数 ) | |
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157
nagged
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| adj.经常遭责怪的；被压制的；感到厌烦的；被激怒的v.不断地挑剔或批评（某人）( nag的过去式和过去分词 )；不断地烦扰或伤害（某人）；无休止地抱怨；不断指责 | |
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158
tempted
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| v.怂恿（某人）干不正当的事；冒…的险（tempt的过去分词） | |
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159
trophy
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| n.优胜旗，奖品，奖杯，战胜品，纪念品 | |
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160
squint
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| v. 使变斜视眼, 斜视, 眯眼看, 偏移, 窥视; n. 斜视, 斜孔小窗; adj. 斜视的, 斜的 | |
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161
pebble
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| n.卵石，小圆石 | |
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162
gravy
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| n.肉汁；轻易得来的钱，外快 | |
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163
torment
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| n.折磨；令人痛苦的东西(人)；vt.折磨；纠缠 | |
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164
beetles
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| n.甲虫( beetle的名词复数 ) | |
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165
ramble
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| v.漫步，漫谈，漫游；n.漫步，闲谈，蔓延 | |
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166
sincerity
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| n.真诚，诚意；真实 | |
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167
hustling
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| 催促（hustle的现在分词形式） | |
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168
quencher
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| 淬火，骤冷； 猝灭 | |
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169
outrage
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| n.暴行，侮辱，愤怒；vt.凌辱，激怒 | |
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170
virtuous
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| adj.有品德的，善良的，贞洁的，有效力的 | |
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171
reticence
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| n.沉默，含蓄 | |
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172
adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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173
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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174
festive
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| adj.欢宴的，节日的 | |
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175
verdant
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| adj.翠绿的，青翠的，生疏的，不老练的 | |
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176
cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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177
cod
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| n.鳕鱼；v.愚弄；哄骗 | |
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178
precipitated
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| v.（突如其来地）使发生( precipitate的过去式和过去分词 )；促成；猛然摔下；使沉淀 | |
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179
sentimental
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| adj.多愁善感的，感伤的 | |
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180
salute
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| vi.行礼，致意，问候，放礼炮；vt.向…致意，迎接，赞扬；n.招呼，敬礼，礼炮 | |
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181
sobbed
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| 哭泣，啜泣( sob的过去式和过去分词 )； 哭诉，呜咽地说 | |
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182
idols
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| 偶像( idol的名词复数 )； 受崇拜的人或物； 受到热爱和崇拜的人或物； 神像 | |
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183
woe
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| n.悲哀，苦痛，不幸，困难；int.用来表达悲伤或惊慌 | |
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184
clattering
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| 发出咔哒声（clatter的现在分词形式） | |
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185
frantically
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| ad.发狂地, 发疯地 | |
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186
memorable
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| adj.值得回忆的，难忘的，特别的，显著的 | |
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187
partnership
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| n.合作关系，伙伴关系 | |
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188
mishap
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| n.不幸的事，不幸；灾祸 | |
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189
triumphant
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| adj.胜利的，成功的；狂欢的，喜悦的 | |
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190
strap
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| n.皮带，带子；v.用带扣住，束牢；用绷带包扎 | |
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191
relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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192
ennui
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| n.怠倦，无聊 | |
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193
frivolity
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| n.轻松的乐事，兴高采烈；轻浮的举止 | |
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