Fate has favored us with a friendship as strange as it is rare: that of the head bonzes of the temple of the jumping Tortoise, where we witnessed last month such a surprising pilgrimage.
The approach to this place is as solitary1 now as it was thronged2 and bustling3 on the evenings of the festival; and in broad daylight one is surprised at the deathlike decay of the sacred surroundings which at night had seemed so full of life. Not a creature to be seen on the time-worn granite4 steps; not a creature beneath the vast, sumptuous5 porticoes6; the colors, the gold-work are dim with dust. To reach the temple one must cross several deserted7 courtyards terraced on the mountain-side, pass through several solemn gateways8, and up and up endless stairs rising far above the town and the noises of humanity into a sacred region filled with innumerable tombs. On all the pavements, in all the walls, are lichen9 and stonecrop; and over all the gray tint10 of extreme age spreads like a fall of ashes.
In a side temple near the entrance is enthroned a colossal11 Buddha12 seated in his lotus — a gilded13 idol14 from forty-five to sixty feet high, mounted on an enormous bronze pedestal.
At length appears the last doorway15 with the two traditional giants, guardians16 of the sacred court, which stand the one on the right hand, the other on the left, shut up like wild beasts, each in an iron cage. They are in attitudes of fury, with fists upraised as if to strike, and features atrociously fierce and distorted. Their bodies are covered with bullets of crumbled17 paper, which have been aimed at them through the bars, and which have stuck to their monstrous18 limbs, producing an appearance of white leprosy: this is the manner in which the faithful strive to appease19 them, by conveying to them their prayers written upon delicate leaflets by the pious20 bonzes.
Passing between these alarming scarecrows, one reaches the innermost court. The residence of our friends is on the right, the great hall of the pagoda21 is before us.
In this paved court are bronze torch-holders as high as turrets22. Here, too, stand, and have stood for centuries, cyca palms with fresh, green plumes23, their numerous stalks curving with a heavy symmetry, like the branches of massive candelabra. The temple, which is open along its entire length, is dark and mysterious, with touches of gilding24 in distant corners melting away into the gloom. In the very remotest part are seated idols25, and from outside one can vaguely26 see their clasped hands and air of rapt mysticism; in front are the altars, loaded with marvellous vases in metalwork, whence spring graceful27 clusters of gold and silver lotus. From the very entrance one is greeted by the sweet odor of the incense-sticks unceasingly burned by the priests before the gods.
To penetrate28 into the dwelling29 of our friends the bonzes, which is situated30 on the right side as you enter, is by no means an easy matter.
A monster of the fish tribe, but having claws and horns, is hung over their door by iron chains; at the least breath of wind he swings creakingly. We pass beneath him and enter the first vast and lofty hall, dimly lighted, in the corners of which gleam gilded idols, bells, and incomprehensible objects of religious use.
Quaint31 little creatures, choir-boys or pupils, come forward with a doubtful welcome to ask what is wanted.
“Matsou-San!! Dondta-San!!” they repeat, much astonished, when they understand to whom we wish to be conducted. Oh! no, impossible, they can not be seen; they are resting or are in contemplation. “Orimas! Orimas!” say they, clasping their hands and sketching32 a genuflection33 or two to make us understand better. (“They are at prayer! the most profound prayer!")
We insist, speak more imperatively34; even slip off our shoes like people determined35 to take no refusal.
At last Matsou-San and Donata-San make their appearance from the tranquil36 depths of their bonze-house. They are dressed in black crape and their heads are shaved. Smiling, amiable37, full of excuses, they offer us their hands, and we follow, with our feet bare like theirs, to the interior of their mysterious dwelling, through a series of empty rooms spread with mats of the most unimpeachable38 whiteness. The successive halls are separated one from the other only by bamboo curtains of exquisite39 delicacy40, caught back by tassels41 and cords of red silk.
The whole wainscoting of the interior is of the same wood, of a pale yellow shade made with extreme nicety, without the least ornament42, the least carving43; everything seems new and unused, as if it had never been touched by human hand. At distant intervals44 in this studied bareness, costly45 little stools, marvellously inlaid, uphold some antique bronze monster or a vase of flowers; on the walls hang a few masterly sketches46, vaguely tinted47 in Indian ink, drawn48 upon strips of gray paper most accurately49 cut but without the slightest attempt at a frame. This is all: not a seat, not a cushion, not a scrap50 of furniture. It is the very acme51 of studied simplicity52, of elegance53 made out of nothing, of the most immaculate and incredible cleanliness. And while following the bonzes through this long suite54 of empty halls, we are struck by their contrast with the overflow55 of knickknacks scattered56 about our rooms in France, and we take a sudden dislike to the profusion57 and crowding delighted in at home.
The spot where this silent march of barefooted folk comes to an end, the spot where we are to seat ourselves in the delightful58 coolness of a semi-darkness, is an interior veranda59 opening upon an artificial site. We might suppose it the bottom of a well; it is a miniature garden no bigger than the opening of an oubliette, overhung on all sides by the crushing height of the mountain and receiving from on high but the dim light of dreamland. Nevertheless, here is simulated a great natural ravine in all its wild grandeur60: here are caverns61, abrupt62 rocks, a torrent63, a cascade64, islands. The trees, dwarfed65 by a Japanese process of which we have not the secret, have tiny little leaves on their decrepit66 and knotty67 branches. A pervading68 hue69 of the mossy green of antiquity70 harmonizes all this medley71, which is undoubtedly72 centuries old.
Families of goldfish swim round and round in the clear water, and tiny tortoises (jumpers probably) sleep upon the granite islands, which are of the same color as their own gray shells.
There are even blue dragon-flies which have ventured to descend73, heaven knows whence, and alight with quivering wings upon the miniature water-lilies.
Our friends the bonzes, notwithstanding an unctuousness74 of manner thoroughly75 ecclesiastical, are very ready to laugh — a simple, pleased, childish laughter; plump, chubby76, shaven and shorn, they dearly love our French liqueurs and know how to take a joke.
We talk first of one thing and then another. To the tranquil music of their little cascade, I launch out before them with phrases of the most erudite Japanese, I try the effect of a few tenses of verbs: ‘desideratives, concessives, hypothetics in ba’. While they chant they despatch77 the affairs of the church: the order of services sealed with complicated seals for inferior pagodas78 situated in the neighborhood; or trace little prayers with a cunning paint-brush, as medical remedies to be swallowed like pills by invalids79 at a distance. With their white and dimpled hands they play with a fan as cleverly as any woman, and when we have tasted different native drinks, flavored with essences of flowers, they bring up as a finish a bottle of Benedictine or Chartreuse, for they appreciate the liqueurs composed by their Western colleagues.
When they come on board to return our visits, they by no means disdain80 to fasten their great round spectacles on their flat noses in order to inspect the profane81 drawings in our illustrated82 papers, the ‘Vie Parisienne’ for instance. And it is even with a certain complacency that they let their fingers linger upon the pictures representing women.
The religious ceremonies in their great temple are magnificent, and to one of these we are now invited. At the sound of the gong they make their entrance before the idols with a stately ritual; twenty or thirty priests officiate in gala costumes, with genuflections, clapping of hands and movements to and fro, which look like the figures of some mystic quadrille.
But for all that, let the sanctuary83 be ever so immense and imposing84 in its sombre gloom, the idols ever so superb, all seems in Japan but a mere85 semblance86 of grandeur. A hopeless pettiness, an irresistible87 effect the ludicrous, lies at the bottom of all things.
And then the congregation is not conducive88 to thoughtful contemplation, for among it we usually discover some acquaintance: my mother-in-law, or a cousin, or the woman from the china-shop who sold us a vase only yesterday. Charming little mousmes, monkeyish-looking old ladies enter with their smoking-boxes, their gayly daubed parasols, their curtseys, their little cries and exclamations89; prattling90, complimenting one another, full of restless movement, and having the greatest difficulty in maintaining a serious demeanor91.

点击
收听单词发音

1
solitary
![]() |
|
adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
2
thronged
![]() |
|
v.成群,挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
3
bustling
![]() |
|
adj.喧闹的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
4
granite
![]() |
|
adj.花岗岩,花岗石 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
5
sumptuous
![]() |
|
adj.豪华的,奢侈的,华丽的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
6
porticoes
![]() |
|
n.柱廊,(有圆柱的)门廊( portico的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
7
deserted
![]() |
|
adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
8
gateways
![]() |
|
n.网关( gateway的名词复数 );门径;方法;大门口 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
9
lichen
![]() |
|
n.地衣, 青苔 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
10
tint
![]() |
|
n.淡色,浅色;染发剂;vt.着以淡淡的颜色 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
11
colossal
![]() |
|
adj.异常的,庞大的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
12
Buddha
![]() |
|
n.佛;佛像;佛陀 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
13
gilded
![]() |
|
a.镀金的,富有的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
14
idol
![]() |
|
n.偶像,红人,宠儿 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
15
doorway
![]() |
|
n.门口,(喻)入门;门路,途径 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
16
guardians
![]() |
|
监护人( guardian的名词复数 ); 保护者,维护者 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
17
crumbled
![]() |
|
(把…)弄碎, (使)碎成细屑( crumble的过去式和过去分词 ); 衰落; 坍塌; 损坏 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
18
monstrous
![]() |
|
adj.巨大的;恐怖的;可耻的,丢脸的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
19
appease
![]() |
|
v.安抚,缓和,平息,满足 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
20
pious
![]() |
|
adj.虔诚的;道貌岸然的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
21
pagoda
![]() |
|
n.宝塔(尤指印度和远东的多层宝塔),(印度教或佛教的)塔式庙宇 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
22
turrets
![]() |
|
(六角)转台( turret的名词复数 ); (战舰和坦克等上的)转动炮塔; (摄影机等上的)镜头转台; (旧时攻城用的)塔车 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
23
plumes
![]() |
|
羽毛( plume的名词复数 ); 羽毛饰; 羽毛状物; 升上空中的羽状物 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
24
gilding
![]() |
|
n.贴金箔,镀金 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
25
idols
![]() |
|
偶像( idol的名词复数 ); 受崇拜的人或物; 受到热爱和崇拜的人或物; 神像 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
26
vaguely
![]() |
|
adv.含糊地,暖昧地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
27
graceful
![]() |
|
adj.优美的,优雅的;得体的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
28
penetrate
![]() |
|
v.透(渗)入;刺入,刺穿;洞察,了解 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
29
dwelling
![]() |
|
n.住宅,住所,寓所 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
30
situated
![]() |
|
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
31
quaint
![]() |
|
adj.古雅的,离奇有趣的,奇怪的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
32
sketching
![]() |
|
n.草图 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
33
genuflection
![]() |
|
n. 曲膝, 屈服 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
34
imperatively
![]() |
|
adv.命令式地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
35
determined
![]() |
|
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
36
tranquil
![]() |
|
adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
37
amiable
![]() |
|
adj.和蔼可亲的,友善的,亲切的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
38
unimpeachable
![]() |
|
adj.无可指责的;adv.无可怀疑地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
39
exquisite
![]() |
|
adj.精美的;敏锐的;剧烈的,感觉强烈的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
40
delicacy
![]() |
|
n.精致,细微,微妙,精良;美味,佳肴 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
41
tassels
![]() |
|
n.穗( tassel的名词复数 );流苏状物;(植物的)穗;玉蜀黍的穗状雄花v.抽穗, (玉米)长穗须( tassel的第三人称单数 );使抽穗, (为了使作物茁壮生长)摘去穗状雄花;用流苏装饰 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
42
ornament
![]() |
|
v.装饰,美化;n.装饰,装饰物 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
43
carving
![]() |
|
n.雕刻品,雕花 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
44
intervals
![]() |
|
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
45
costly
![]() |
|
adj.昂贵的,价值高的,豪华的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
46
sketches
![]() |
|
n.草图( sketch的名词复数 );素描;速写;梗概 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
47
tinted
![]() |
|
adj. 带色彩的 动词tint的过去式和过去分词 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
48
drawn
![]() |
|
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
49
accurately
![]() |
|
adv.准确地,精确地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
50
scrap
![]() |
|
n.碎片;废料;v.废弃,报废 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
51
acme
![]() |
|
n.顶点,极点 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
52
simplicity
![]() |
|
n.简单,简易;朴素;直率,单纯 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
53
elegance
![]() |
|
n.优雅;优美,雅致;精致,巧妙 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
54
suite
![]() |
|
n.一套(家具);套房;随从人员 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
55
overflow
![]() |
|
v.(使)外溢,(使)溢出;溢出,流出,漫出 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
56
scattered
![]() |
|
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
57
profusion
![]() |
|
n.挥霍;丰富 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
58
delightful
![]() |
|
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
59
veranda
![]() |
|
n.走廊;阳台 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
60
grandeur
![]() |
|
n.伟大,崇高,宏伟,庄严,豪华 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
61
caverns
![]() |
|
大山洞,大洞穴( cavern的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
62
abrupt
![]() |
|
adj.突然的,意外的;唐突的,鲁莽的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
63
torrent
![]() |
|
n.激流,洪流;爆发,(话语等的)连发 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
64
cascade
![]() |
|
n.小瀑布,喷流;层叠;vi.成瀑布落下 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
65
dwarfed
![]() |
|
vt.(使)显得矮小(dwarf的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
66
decrepit
![]() |
|
adj.衰老的,破旧的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
67
knotty
![]() |
|
adj.有结的,多节的,多瘤的,棘手的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
68
pervading
![]() |
|
v.遍及,弥漫( pervade的现在分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
69
hue
![]() |
|
n.色度;色调;样子 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
70
antiquity
![]() |
|
n.古老;高龄;古物,古迹 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
71
medley
![]() |
|
n.混合 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
72
undoubtedly
![]() |
|
adv.确实地,无疑地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
73
descend
![]() |
|
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
74
unctuousness
![]() |
|
油性 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
75
thoroughly
![]() |
|
adv.完全地,彻底地,十足地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
76
chubby
![]() |
|
adj.丰满的,圆胖的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
77
despatch
![]() |
|
n./v.(dispatch)派遣;发送;n.急件;新闻报道 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
78
pagodas
![]() |
|
塔,宝塔( pagoda的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
79
invalids
![]() |
|
病人,残疾者( invalid的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
80
disdain
![]() |
|
n.鄙视,轻视;v.轻视,鄙视,不屑 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
81
profane
![]() |
|
adj.亵神的,亵渎的;vt.亵渎,玷污 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
82
illustrated
![]() |
|
adj. 有插图的,列举的 动词illustrate的过去式和过去分词 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
83
sanctuary
![]() |
|
n.圣所,圣堂,寺庙;禁猎区,保护区 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
84
imposing
![]() |
|
adj.使人难忘的,壮丽的,堂皇的,雄伟的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
85
mere
![]() |
|
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
86
semblance
![]() |
|
n.外貌,外表 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
87
irresistible
![]() |
|
adj.非常诱人的,无法拒绝的,无法抗拒的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
88
conducive
![]() |
|
adj.有益的,有助的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
89
exclamations
![]() |
|
n.呼喊( exclamation的名词复数 );感叹;感叹语;感叹词 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
90
prattling
![]() |
|
v.(小孩般)天真无邪地说话( prattle的现在分词 );发出连续而无意义的声音;闲扯;东拉西扯 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
91
demeanor
![]() |
|
n.行为;风度 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
欢迎访问英文小说网 |