The box of instruments sent from England for the use of the expedition had been received, and opened in Adelaide. The most important of them were two sextants, three prismatic compasses, two false horizons, and a barometer1. One of the sextants was a very good instrument, but the glasses of the other were not clear, and unfortunately the barometer was broken and useless, since it had the syphon tube, which could not be replaced in the colony. I exceedingly regretted this accident, for I had been particularly anxious to carry on a series of observations, to determine the level of the interior. I manufactured a barometer, for the tube of which I was indebted to Captain Frome, the Surveyor-General, and I took with me an excellent house barometer, together with two brewer’s thermometers, for ascertaining3 the boiling point of water on Sykes’ principle. The first of the barometers4 was unfortunately broken on the way up to Moorundi, so that I was a second time disappointed.
It appears to me that the tubes of these delicate instruments are not secured with sufficient care in the case, that the corks6 placed to steady them are at too great intervals7, and that the elasticity8 of the tube is consequently too great for the weight of mercury it contains. The thermometers sent from England, graduated to 127 degrees only, were too low for the temperature into which I went, and consequently useless at times, when the temperature in the shade exceeded that number of degrees. One of them was found broken in its case, the other burst when set to try the temperature, by the over expansion of mercury in the bulb.
The party had left Adelaide in such haste that it became necessary before we should again move, to rearrange the loads. On Monday, the 18th, therefore I desired Mr. Piesse to attend to this necessary duty, and not only to equalize the loads on the drays, and ascertain2 what stores we had, but to put everything in its place, so as to be procured9 at a moment’s notice.
The avenue at Moorundi presented a busy scene, whilst the men were thus employed reloading the drays and weighing the provisions. Morgan, who had the charge of the horse cart, had managed to snap one of the shafts10 in his descent into the Moorundi Flat, and was busy replacing it. Brock, a gunsmith by trade, was cleaning the arms. Others of the men were variously occupied, whilst the natives looked with curiosity and astonishment11 on all they saw. At this time, however, there were not many natives at the settlement, since numbers of them had gone over the Nile, to make their harvest on the settlers.
On Monday I sent Flood into Adelaide with despatches for the Governor, and with letters for my family, as well as to bring out some few trifling13 things we had overlooked, and as Mr. Piesse reported to me on that day that the drays were reloaded, I directed him, after I had inspected them, to lash14 down the tarpaulines, and to warn the men to hold themselves in readiness to proceed on their journey at 8 a.m. on the following morning — for, as I purposed remaining at Moorundi with Mr. Eyre until Flood should return, I was unwilling15 that the party should lose any time, and I therefore thought it advisable to send the drays on, under Mr. Poole’s charge, until such time as I should overtake him. The spirit which at this time animated16 the men ensured punctuality to any orders that were given to them. Accordingly the bullocks were yoked17 up, and all hands were at their posts at early dawn. As, however, I was about to remain behind for a few days, it struck me that this would be a favourable18 opportunity on which to address the men. I accordingly directed Mr. Poole to assemble them, and with Mr. Eyre and Mr. Browne went to join him in the flat, a little below the avenue. I then explained to them that I proposed remaining at Moorundi for a few days after their departure. I thought it necessary, in giving them over into Mr. Poole’s charge, to point out some of the duties I expected from them.
That in the first place I had instructed Mr. Poole to mount a guard of two men every evening at sunset, who were to remain on duty until sun-rise; that I expected the utmost vigilance from this guard, and that as the safety of the camp would depend on their attention, I should punish any neglect with the utmost severity. I then adverted19 to the natives, and interdicted20 all intercourse21 with them, excepting with my permission. That as I attributed many of the acts of violence that had been committed on the river to this irritating source, so I would strike the name of any man who should disobey my orders in this respect off the strength of the party from that moment, and prevent his receiving a farthing of pay; or whoever I should discover encouraging any of the natives, but more particularly the native women, to the camp. I next drew the attention of the men to themselves, and pointed5 out to them the ill effects of discord22, expressing my hope that they would be cheerful and ready to assist one another, and that harmony would exist in the camp; that I expected the most ready obedience23 from all to their superiors; and that, in such case, they would on their part always find me alive to their comforts, and to their interests. I then confirmed Mr. Piesse in his post as store-keeper; gave to Flood the general superintendence of the stock; to Morgan the charge of the horses, and to each bullock-driver the charge of his own particular team. To Brock I committed the sheep, with Kirby and Sullivan to assist, and to Davenport and Cowley (Joseph) the charge of the officers’ tents. I then said, that as they might now be said to commence a journey, from which none of them could tell who would be permitted to return, it was a duty they owed themselves to ask the blessing24 and protection of that Power which alone could conduct them in safety through it; and having read a few appropriate prayers to the men as they stood uncovered before me, I dismissed them, and told Mr. Poole he might move off as soon as he pleased. The scene was at once changed. The silence which had prevailed was broken by the cracks of whips, and the loud voices of the bullock-drivers. The teams descended25 one after the other from the bank on which they had been drawn26 up, and filed past myself and Mr. Eyre, who stood near me, in the most regular order. The long line reached almost across the Moorundi flat, and looked extremely well. I watched it with an anxiety that made me forgetful of everything else, and I naturally turned my thoughts to the future How many of those who had just passed me so full of hope, and in such exuberant27 spirits, would be permitted to return to their homes? Should I, their leader, be one of those destined28 to remain in the desert, or should I be more fortunate in treading it than the persevering29 and adventurous30 officer whose guest I was, and who shrank from the task I had undertaken. My eyes followed the party as it ascended31 the gully on the opposite side of the flat, and turned northwards, the two officers leading, until the whole were lost to my view in the low scrub into which it entered. I was unconscious of what was passing around me, but when I turned to address my companions, I found that I was alone. Mr. Eyre, and the other gentlemen who had been present, had left me to my meditations33.
In the afternoon Kusick, one of the mounted police, arrived with despatches from the Governor, and letters from my family. He had met Flood at Gawler Town, whose return, therefore, we might reasonably expect on the Friday.
Amongst the first purchases that had been made was a horse for the service of the expedition, which had not very long before been brought in from Lake Victoria, Nadbuck’s location, distant nearly 200 miles from Adelaide, where he had been running wild for some time. This horse was put into the government paddock at Adelaide when bought, but he took the fence some time during the night and disappeared, nor could he be traced anywhere. Luckily, however, Kusick had passed the horses belonging to the settlers at Moorundi, feeding at the edge of the scrub upon the cliffs, and amongst them had recognised this animal, which had thus got more than 90 miles back to his old haunt. He had, however, fallen into a trap, from which I took care he should not again escape; but we had some difficulty in running him in and securing him.
Prior to the departure of the expedition from Adelaide, a considerable quantity of rain had fallen there. Since our arrival at Moorundi also we could see heavy rain on the hills, although no shower fell in the valley of the Murray. Kusick informed us that he had been in constant rain, and it was evident, from the dense34 and heavy clouds hanging upon them, that it was still pouring in torrents35 on the ranges. We feared, therefore, and it eventually proved to be the case, that Flood would not be able to cross the Gawler on his return to us. He was, in fact, detained a day in consequence of the swollen36 state of that little river, but swam his horse over on the following day, at considerable risk both to himself and his animal. He did not, in consequence, reach us until Saturday. In anticipation37, however, of his return on that day, we had sent Kenny, the policeman stationed at Moorundi who was to accompany Mr. Eyre, up the river in advance of us at noon, with Tampawang, the black boy I intended taking with me, and had everything in readiness to follow them, as soon as Flood should arrive. He did not, however, reach Moorundi until 5 p.m. It took me some little time to reply to the communications he had brought, but at seven we mounted our horses, and leaving Flood to rest himself, and to exchange his wearied animal for the one we had recovered, with Tenbury in front, left the settlement. The night was cold and frosty, but the moon shone clear in a cloudless sky, so that we were enabled to ride along the cliffs, from which we descended to one of the river flats at 1 a.m. and, making a roaring fire, composed ourselves to rest.
It may here be necessary, before I enter on any detail of the proceedings38 of the expedition, to explain the general nature of my instructions, the object of the expedition, and the reasons why, in some measure, contrary to the opinion of the Secretary of State, I preferred trying the interior by the line of the Darling, rather than by a direct northerly route from Mount Arden.
As the reader will have understood, I wrote, in the year 1843, to Lord Stanley, the then colonial minister, volunteering my services to conduct an expedition into Central Australia. It appeared to his Lordship as well as to Sir John Barrow, to whom Lord Stanley referred my report, that the plan I had proposed was too extensive, and it was therefore determined39 to adopt a more modified one, and to limit the resources of the expedition and the objects it was to keep in view, to a certain time, and to the investigation40 of certain facts. After expressing his opinion as to the magnitude of the undertaking41 I had contemplated42, “There is, however,” says Sir J. Barrow, in a minute to the Secretary of State, “a portion of the continent of Australia, to which he (Captain Sturt) adverts43, that may be accomplished44, and in a reasonable time and at a moderate expense.
“He says, if a line be drawn from lat. 29 degrees 30 minutes and long. 146 degrees, N.W., and another from Mount Arden due north, they will meet a little to the northward32 of the tropic, and there, I will be bound to say, a fine country will be discovered. On what data he pledges himself to the discovery of this fine country is not stated. It may, however, be advisable to allow Mr. Sturt to realize the state of this fine country.
“This, however, is not to be done by pursuing the line of the Darling to the latitude45 of Moreton Bay, which would lead him not far from the eastern coast, where there is nothing of interest to be discovered, nor does it appear advisable to pursue the Darling to the point to which he and Major Mitchell have already been, for this reason. His preparations will, no doubt, be made at Adelaide; from thence to the point in question is about 600 miles, and from this point to the fine country, a little beyond the tropic, is 700 miles, which together make a journey of 1300 miles. Now a line directly north from Adelaide, through Mount Arden, to the point where it crosses the former in the fine country, is only 800 miles, making a saving, therefore, of 500 miles, which is of no little importance in such a country as Australia.
“But Mr. Sturt assigns reasons for supposing that a range of mountains will be found about the 29th parallel of latitude, and Mr. Eyre, whilst exploring the Lake he discovered to the northward of the Gulf46 of St. Vincent, Adelaide, notices mountains to the N.E., in about the latitude of 28 degrees. Supposing, then, a range of mountains to exist about that parallel, their direction will probably be found to run from N.E. to S.W., which is that generally of the river Darling and its branches; and in this case it may reasonably be concluded that these mountains form the division of the waters, and that all the branches of the several rivers (some of them of considerable magnitude) which have been known to fall into the bays and gulfs on the W. and N.W. coasts, between the parallels of 14 degrees and 21 degrees, have their sources on the northern side of this range of mountains; but, even if no such range exists, it is pretty evident, from what we know of the southern rivers, adjuncts chiefly of the Darling, that somewhere about the latitudes47 of 28 degrees or 29 degrees the surface rises to a sufficient height to cause a division of the waters, those on the northern side taking a northerly direction, and those on the southern side a southerly one.
“To ascertain this point is worthy48 of a practical experiment in a geographical49 point of view, as the knowledge of the direction that mountains and rivers take, the bones and blood vessels50 of bodies terrestrial give us at least a picture of the body of that skeleton. To these Mr. Sturt will no doubt direct his particular attention, as constituting the main object of such an expedition, and these, with the great features of the country, its principal productions in the animal and vegetable part of the creation, the state and condition of the original inhabitants, will render a great service to the geography of the southern part of Australia.”
On this memorandum51 the Secretary of State observes, in a private letter to Captain Grey, that came to hand before the receipt of Lord Stanley’s public despatch12:—
“In considering Sir John Barrow’s memorandum, enclosed in my public despatch, you will see that a strong opinion is expressed against ascending52 the Darling in the first instance, and in favour of making a direct northerly course from Adelaide to Mount Arden. I do not wish this to be taken as an absolute injunction, because I am aware that there may be local causes why the apparently53 circuitous54 route may after all be the easiest for the transport of provisions, and may really facilitate the objects of the expedition. In like manner I do not wish to be understood as absolutely prohibiting a return by Moreton Bay, extensive as that deviation55 would be, if it should turn out that the exploration of the mountain chain led the party so far to the eastward56 as to be able to reach that point by a route previously57 known to Captain Sturt or to Major Mitchell, more easily than they could return on their steps down the Darling. What Captain Sturt will understand as absolutely prohibited, is any attempt to conduct his party through the tropical regions to the northward, so as to reach the mouths of any of the great rivers. The present expedition will be limited in its object, to ascertaining the existence and the character of a supposed chain of hills, or a succession of separate hills, trending down from N.E. to S.W., and forming a great natural division of the continent; to examining what rivers take their source in those mountains, and what appears to be their course; to the general lie of the country to the N.W. of the supposed chain; and to the character of the soil and forests, as far as can be ascertained58 by such an investigation as shall not draw the party away from their resources, and shall make the south the constant base of their operations.”
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1
barometer
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| n.气压表，睛雨表，反应指标 | |
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ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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ascertaining
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的现在分词 ) | |
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barometers
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| 气压计，晴雨表( barometer的名词复数 ) | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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corks
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| n.脐梅衣；软木( cork的名词复数 )；软木塞 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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elasticity
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| n.弹性，伸缩力 | |
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procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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shafts
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| n.轴( shaft的名词复数 )；（箭、高尔夫球棒等的）杆；通风井；一阵（疼痛、害怕等） | |
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astonishment
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| n.惊奇，惊异 | |
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despatch
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| n./v.(dispatch)派遣；发送；n.急件；新闻报道 | |
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trifling
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| adj.微不足道的；没什么价值的 | |
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lash
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| v.系牢；鞭打；猛烈抨击；n.鞭打；眼睫毛 | |
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unwilling
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| adj.不情愿的 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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yoked
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| 结合（yoke的过去式形式） | |
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favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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adverted
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| 引起注意（advert的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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interdicted
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| v.禁止（行动）( interdict的过去式和过去分词 )；禁用；限制 | |
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intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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discord
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| n.不和，意见不合，争论，（音乐）不和谐 | |
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obedience
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| n.服从，顺从 | |
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blessing
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| n.祈神赐福；祷告；祝福，祝愿 | |
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descended
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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exuberant
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| adj.充满活力的；（植物）繁茂的 | |
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destined
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| adj.命中注定的；(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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persevering
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| a.坚忍不拔的 | |
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adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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meditations
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| 默想( meditation的名词复数 )； 默念； 沉思； 冥想 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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swollen
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| adj.肿大的，水涨的；v.使变大，肿胀 | |
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anticipation
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| n.预期，预料，期望 | |
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proceedings
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| n.进程，过程，议程；诉讼(程序)；公报 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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investigation
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| n.调查，调查研究 | |
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undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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contemplated
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| adj. 预期的 动词contemplate的过去分词形式 | |
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adverts
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| advertisements 广告，做广告 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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latitudes
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| 纬度 | |
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48
worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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geographical
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| adj.地理的；地区(性)的 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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memorandum
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| n.备忘录，便笺 | |
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ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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circuitous
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| adj.迂回的路的，迂曲的，绕行的 | |
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deviation
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| n.背离，偏离；偏差，偏向；离题 | |
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eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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