It will be remembered that in tracing up the creek4 on the occasion of our first excursion from Cawndilla, that Topar had persuaded me, on gaining the head of the glen to go to the north, on the faith of a promise that he would take us to a place where there was an abundance of water, and that in requital5 he took us to a shallow, slimy pool, the water of which was unfit to drink. Mr. Browne and I now went in the direction we should have gone if we had been uninfluenced by this young cub6, and at less than a hundred yards came upon a pretty little clear pool of water, that had been hid from our view by a turn of the creek. What motive7 Topar could have had in thus deceiving us, and punishing himself, is difficult to say. On our further examination of the creek, however, there was no more water to be found, and from the gravelly and perfectly8 even nature of its bed, I should think it all runs off as fast as the channel filled. Whilst I was thus employed, Mr. Poole and Mr. Stuart were on the ranges, and both, as well as the men generally, continued in good health; but I was exceedingly anxious about Mr. Browne, who had a low fever on him, and was just then incapable9 of much fatigue10; nevertheless he begged so hard to be permitted to accompany me on my contemplated11 journey, that I was obliged to yield.
I had been satisfied from the appearance of the Williorara, that it was nothing more than a channel of communication between the lakes Cawndilla and Minandechi and the Darling, as the Rufus and Hawker respectively connect Lakes Victoria and Bonney with the Murray, and I felt assured that as soon as we should leave the former river, our difficulties as regards the supply of water for our cattle would commence, and that although we were going amongst hills of 1500 or 2000 feet elevation12, we should still suffer from the want of that indispensable element. Many of my readers, judging from their knowledge of an English climate, and living perhaps under hills of less elevation than those I have mentioned, from which a rippling13 stream may pass their very door, will hardly understand this; but the mountains of south-east Australia bear no resemblance to the moss-covered mountains of Europe. There that spongy vegetation retains the water to give it out by degrees, but the rain that falls on the Australian hills runs off at once, and hence the terrific floods to which their creeks14 are subject. In the barren and stony15 ranges through which I had now to force my way, no spring was to be found. During heavy rains, indeed, the torrents16 are fierce, and the waters must spread over the plains into which they descend17 for many miles; but such effects disappear with their cause; a few detached pools only remain, that are fed for a time by under drainage, which soon failing, the thirsty sun completes his work, and leaves that proscribed18 region — a desert.
Fully19 satisfied then that the greatest obstacle to the progress of the Expedition would be the want of water, and that it would only be by long and laborious20 search that we should succeed in gaining the interior, I determined21 on taking as much as I could on my proposed journey, and with a view to gaining more time for examining the country, I had a tank constructed, which I purposed to send a day or two in advance.
The little pond of which I have spoken at the head of the pass, had near it a beautiful clump22 of acacias of a species entirely23 new to us. It was a pretty graceful24 tree, and threw a deep shade on the ground; but with the exception of these and a few gum-trees the vicinity was clear and open. Our position in the creek on the contrary was close and confined. Heavy gusts25 of wind were constantly sweeping26 the valley, and filling the air with sand, and the flies were so numerous and troublesome that they were a preventative to all work. I determined, therefore, before Mr. Browne and I should start for the interior, to remove the camp to the upper part of the glen. On the 4th we struck our tents and again pitched them close to the acacias. Early on the morning of the 5th, I sent Flood with Lewis and Sullivan, having the cart full of water, to preserve a certain course until I should overtake them, being myself detained in camp with Mr. Browne, in consequence of the arrival of several natives from whom we hoped to glean27 some information; but in this we were disappointed. Toonda had continued with us as far as “Parnari;” but on our moving up higher into the hills, his heart failed him, and he returned to Cawndilla.
At eleven, Mr. Browne and I took leave of Mr. Poole, and pursuing a course of 140 degrees to the west of south, rode on to overtake the cart. At about four miles from the camp we crossed a small ironstone range, from which we saw Flood and his party nearly at the foot of the hill on which I had directed him to move, and at which I intended to cross the ranges if the place was favourable28. In this, however, we were disappointed, for the hills were too rugged29, although of no great breadth or height. We were consequently obliged to turn to the south, and in going over the rough uneven30 ground, had the misfortune to burst our tank. I therefore desired Lewis to stop, and gave the horses as much water as they would drink, still leaving a considerable quantity in the tank, of which I hoped we might yet avail ourselves. Although we had found it impracticable to cross the ranges at the proposed point, Mr. Browne and I had managed to scramble31 up the most elevated part of them. We appeared still to be amidst broken stony hills, from which there was no visible outlet32. There was a line of gum-trees, however, in a valley to the southwest of us, as if growing on the side of a creek that would in such case be tributary33 to the main creek on which our tents were pitched, and we hoped, by running along the base of the hills to the south and turning into the valley, to force our way onwards. At about three and a half miles our anticipations34 were verified by our arriving opposite to an opening leading northwards into the hills. This proved to be the valley we had noticed. A line of gum-trees marked the course of a small creek, which passing behind a little hill at the entrance of the valley, reappeared on the other side, and then trended to the N.W. Entering the valley and pursuing our way up it, at two miles we crossed another small creek, tributary to the first, and at a mile beyond halted for the night, without having found water. Although there was a little grass on the plains between the camp and the ranges, there was none in the valley in which we stopped. Low bushes of rhagodia and atriplex were alone to be seen, growing on a red, tenacious35, yet somewhat sandy soil, whilst the ranges themselves were covered with low brush.
The water had almost all leaked out of the tank when we examined it, so that it was no longer of any service to us. On the morning of the 7th, therefore, I sent Lewis and Sullivan with the cart back to the camp, retaining Flood and Morgan to attend on Mr. Browne and myself.
When we started I directed them to follow up the creek, which did not appear to continue much further, and on arriving at the head of it to cross the range, where it was low, in the hope that they would strike the opposite fall of waters in descending36 on the other side, whilst I went with Mr. Browne to a hill from which I was anxious to take bearings, although Lewis, who had already been on the top of it, assured me that there was nothing new to be seen. However, we found the view to be extensive enough to enable us to judge better of the character of the country than from any other point on which we had yet been. It was traversed by numerous rocky ridges38, that extended both to the north and south beyond the range of vision. Many peaks shewed themselves in the distance, and I was enabled to connect this point with “Coonbaralba,” the hill above the camp. The ridge37 I had directed Flood to cross was connected with this hill, and appeared to create a division of the waters thereabouts. All however to the north or northwest was as yet confused. There was no visible termination of the ranges in any direction, nor could we see any feature to guide us in our movements.
点击收听单词发音
1 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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2 soda | |
n.苏打水;汽水 | |
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3 granite | |
adj.花岗岩,花岗石 | |
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4 creek | |
n.小溪,小河,小湾 | |
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5 requital | |
n.酬劳;报复 | |
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6 cub | |
n.幼兽,年轻无经验的人 | |
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7 motive | |
n.动机,目的;adv.发动的,运动的 | |
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8 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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9 incapable | |
adj.无能力的,不能做某事的 | |
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10 fatigue | |
n.疲劳,劳累 | |
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11 contemplated | |
adj. 预期的 动词contemplate的过去分词形式 | |
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12 elevation | |
n.高度;海拔;高地;上升;提高 | |
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13 rippling | |
起涟漪的,潺潺流水般声音的 | |
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14 creeks | |
n.小湾( creek的名词复数 );小港;小河;小溪 | |
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15 stony | |
adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
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16 torrents | |
n.倾注;奔流( torrent的名词复数 );急流;爆发;连续不断 | |
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17 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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18 proscribed | |
v.正式宣布(某事物)有危险或被禁止( proscribe的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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19 fully | |
adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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20 laborious | |
adj.吃力的,努力的,不流畅 | |
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21 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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22 clump | |
n.树丛,草丛;vi.用沉重的脚步行走 | |
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23 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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24 graceful | |
adj.优美的,优雅的;得体的 | |
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25 gusts | |
一阵强风( gust的名词复数 ); (怒、笑等的)爆发; (感情的)迸发; 发作 | |
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26 sweeping | |
adj.范围广大的,一扫无遗的 | |
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27 glean | |
v.收集(消息、资料、情报等) | |
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28 favourable | |
adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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29 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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30 uneven | |
adj.不平坦的,不规则的,不均匀的 | |
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31 scramble | |
v.爬行,攀爬,杂乱蔓延,碎片,片段,废料 | |
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32 outlet | |
n.出口/路;销路;批发商店;通风口;发泄 | |
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33 tributary | |
n.支流;纳贡国;adj.附庸的;辅助的;支流的 | |
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34 anticipations | |
预期( anticipation的名词复数 ); 预测; (信托财产收益的)预支; 预期的事物 | |
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35 tenacious | |
adj.顽强的,固执的,记忆力强的,粘的 | |
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36 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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37 ridge | |
n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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38 ridges | |
n.脊( ridge的名词复数 );山脊;脊状突起;大气层的)高压脊 | |
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