“You will select the men you would wish to accompany you, and will provide as well for your comfort as safety; for although these regions do not seem to be inhabited at the present moment, at least in that part from whence I have just returned, it will be necessary for you to be always on your guard, even although no apparent danger may be near.”
Mr. Browne had greatly recovered from his late indisposition, and as Mr. Poole intimated to me that he had expressed his willingness to accompany him, I had several reasons for giving my assent10 to this arrangement.
On the morning of the 20th it still continued to rain, insomuch that I was anxious Mr. Poole should postpone11 his departure, but clearing up at noon, he left me and proceeded on his journey. In the evening, however, we had heavy and violent showers; all night it poured in torrents12 with thunder and lightning, but the morning of the 21st was clear and fine. A vast quantity of rain however had fallen. The creek was overflowing13 its banks, and the ground in such a state that it would have been impossible to have moved the drays. The temperature was exceedingly cold, although the thermometer did not fall below 66 degrees at half-past 2 p.m. the hottest part of the day. Such a temperature I am aware would be considered agreeable in England, but in a climate like that of Australia, where the changes are so sudden, they are more severely14 felt. Only a few days before the thermometer had ranged from 108 degrees to 117 degrees in the shade, thus at once causing a difference of 42 degrees and 51 degrees, and I am free to say that it was by no means agreeable. On the 22nd I commenced my advance over the ranges, although the ground was hardly then in a condition to bear the weight of the drays. We were indeed obliged to keep on the banks of the creek as they were higher and firmer than the plains, but after all we only made seven miles and halted, I had almost said without water, for notwithstanding the recent rains, there was not a drop in the bed of the creek, nor could we get any other than a scanty15 supply by digging; Jones, however, one of the bullock drivers, found a shallow pool upon the plains to which the cattle were driven.
On the way I ascended17 a small hill composed of mica18 slate19, and on its summit found two or three specimens20 of tourmaline. The boiling point of water on this hill was 210 degrees, the thermometer stood at 70 degrees.
On the 25th we crossed the little dividing range connected with Lewis’s Hill, which last I again ascended to verify my bearings, as we had erected21 three pyramids on the Coonbaralla range that were visible from it. I also availed myself of the slow progress of the drays, to ascend16 a hill at some little distance from our line, which was considerably22 higher than any of those near it, and was amply rewarded for my trouble by the extensive view it afforded.
Our specimens and collections were at this period exceedingly limited, nor did there appear to be any immediate9 chance of increasing them. The most numerous of the feathered race were the owls23, (Strix flameus.) These birds flew about in broad daylight, and kept the camp awake all night by their screeching24, it being at that time the breeding season. The young birds generally sat on a branch near the hole in which they had been hatched, and set up a most discordant25 noise about every quarter of an hour, when the old ones returned to them with food.
On trying the thermometers, one on Lewis’s Hill, and the other on the Black Hill, I found that they boiled at 209 degrees and 208 degrees respectively.
On the 26th Jones was unfortunate enough to snap the pole of his dray, and I was consequently detained on the 27th repairing it. I was the more vexed26 at the accident, being anxious to push over the ranges and gain the plains, in order to prevent Mr. Poole the necessity of re-ascending them. I felt satisfied that I should find a sufficiency both of water and feed at the gorge27 of the Rocky Glen, to enable me to rest until more thorough knowledge of the country could be gained, whilst by encamping at that place I should save Mr. Poole a journey of 63 miles.
As we descended28 from the ranges I observed that all the water I had seen glittering on the plains had disappeared; I found too that the larger water-hole in the glen had rather fallen than increased during the rains. The fact however was, that the under-drainage had not yet reached the lower part of the gully.
We were now about 24 miles from the second creek Mr. Browne and I had crossed on our recent excursion, and from Flood’s examination of it afterwards, I felt assured that unless a party was sent forward to dig a large hole for the cattle I could not prudently30 advance any farther for the present; but being anxious to push on, and hoping that the late rains had increased the supply of water in the creek, I sent Flood on the 28th with two of the men (Joseph and Sullivan) to dig a tank in the most favourable31 spot he could select, and followed him with the drays on the 29th. Wishing however to examine the country a little to the westward32, I desired the men to keep on the plains about two miles from the foot of the ranges, until they should strike the creek or Flood should join them, and did not reach the encampment before eight o’clock.
Flood then told me that he had been to the place where he had before found most surface water; but that, notwithstanding the rains, it was all gone. He had tried the creek downwards33, and had at length sunk a tank opposite to a little gully, thinking that it might influence the drainage. The tank was quite full, and continued so for two or three days after, when, without any great call upon it from the cattle, it sensibly diminished, and at length dried up, and we should have been obliged to fall back, if in tracing up the little gully we had not found a pond that enabled us to keep our ground. It often happened that we thus procured34 water in detached localities when there was not a drop in the main channels of the creeks35. At this place the boiling point of the thermometer was 212 degrees; thus bringing us again pretty nearly on a level with the ocean, although we were at the time distant from it more than 480 miles.
At this period we had frequent heavy winds, with a heated temperature: yet our animals, if I except the dogs, did not suffer much. The sheep, it is true, would sometimes refuse to stir, and assemble in the shade, when on the march, whilst the dogs took shelter in wambut holes, and poking36 their heads out, would bark at their charge to very little purpose. It was evident, indeed, that the heat was fast increasing, and what we had already experienced was only an earnest of that which was to follow.
Mr. Poole had now been absent thirteen days, and I began to be anxious for his return. Our march to the second creek had again shortened his homeward journey 70 miles, and as I felt assured he would cross the creek at the point where we had dug the well, I stuck a pole up in it, with instructions, and on the 2nd December he rode into the camp with Mr. Browne, both much fatigued37, as well as their horses. I had been engaged the greater part of the day fixing the points for another base line, as I was fearful that the angles of our first were too acute, and found that the party had got back on my return to the camp.
Mr. Poole informed me that as soon as the weather cleared, after leaving me on the range, he had pushed on. That on the 24th he left my cart tracks as they turned to the N.W., and continued the N.N.W. course as I had directed. On that day he encamped early at a good water-hole, as the horses had travelled fast; the country thereabouts had become more open, but water was exceedingly scarce. On this day he ascended a small sandstone hill, from which some high peaks on the range bore S.S.E.
On the 26th he had not advanced 10 miles, when the pack-horse fell exhausted38 by heat. Mr. Poole then consulted with Mr. Browne, and it was thought better by both to travel at night, and they accordingly did so. The country by moonlight appeared more open, and the water seemed to be in greater abundance, as if much more rain had fallen thereabouts than to the south. They continued a N.N.W. course until daylight, when they halted, and Mr. Browne ascended a sand hill, from whence he saw peaks on the range bearing to the north of east, and the Mount Serle range, bearing due west, distant 50 miles. The latter circumstance induced Mr. Poole, when he again resumed his journey, to change his course to west, in the hope that as he had passed the 30th parallel he should find Lake Torrens between himself and the ranges. Accordingly, on starting at 4 p.m. they went on that course, and halted at dawn on a swampy39 flat, under a gum-tree. Mr. Poole subsequently ascertained40 that the swamp was the head of a little creek falling into the Sandy Lake, where he afterwards terminated his journey.
The country had now assumed a very barren appearance. At sunrise Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne ascended another sand hill, from whence they again saw the hills to the westward, seemingly very high and steep; but there was no sign of an intermediate basin, the country towards the ranges bearing a most sterile41 aspect. Here Mr. Browne saw a new pigeon, which had a very singular flight.
On the afternoon of the 28th the party moved on a course of 10 degrees to the south of west, down a leading valley, the country becoming still more barren, the sand ridges42 quite bare, and only an occasional hakea on the flats. At eight miles on the above course, and from the top of a sandy ridge43 at the distance of two miles, they saw a sheet of water about a mile and a half in length, in a sandy bed extending to the north, without any visible termination. There was another sheet of water to the south of this in the same kind of bed, connected with the larger one by a dry channel. It appeared from the lay of the country that these sheets of water were formed by drainage from the barren ranges from which Mr. Poole calculated he was 15 to 18 miles distant. The lakes were about three miles in length, taking the two together, the water was slightly brackish44, and in Mr. Poole’s opinion they might during the summer season be dry. He again ascended the sandy ridge and observed that he was immediately opposite to three remarkable45 peaks, similar to those marked down by Mr. Eyre. The party then turned homewards, and encamped on the creek at the head of which they had slept the night before, where they could hardly rest for the swarms46 of mosquitos. Pursuing their journey towards the camp on the following morning, keeping some few miles to the westward of their former line, they passed through a similar country. At noon, on the 1st of December, they were still amongst the pine ridges; after noon the country began to improve, and they rode across large plains well grassed and covered with acacia trees of fine growth, but totally destitute47 of water; they were in consequence obliged to tether the horses all night. They reached the creek in which I had erected the pole, early on the following morning, and there found the paper of instructions informing them of the removal of the camp to within a mile of where they then were.
It was evident from the result of this excursion, and from the high northerly point Mr. Poole had gained, that he had either struck the lower part of the basin of Lake Torrens or some similar feature. It was at the same time, however, clear that the country was not favourable for any attempt to penetrate48, since there was no surface water. I felt indeed that it would be imprudent to venture with heavily loaded drays into such a country; but although I found a westerly course as yet closed upon me, I still hoped that we should find larger waters in the north-west interior, from the fact of the immense number of bitterns, cranes, and other aquatic49 birds, the party flushed in the neighbourhood of the lakes. Whence could these birds (more numerous at this point than we ever afterwards saw them) have come from? To what quarter do they go? They do not frequent the Murray or the Darling in such numbers, neither do they frequent the southern portion of the coast. If then they are not to be found in those localities, what waters do they inhabit in the interior?
On the 4th I sent Flood to the north in search of water, directing him to keep at a certain distance from the ranges, with especial instructions not to proceed beyond 60 or 70 miles, but in the event of his finding water within that distance to return immediately to the camp. During his absence I was abundantly occupied, and anxious that Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne should have a little rest after their late journey. Both those gentlemen were however too interested in the service in which they were engaged to remain idle when they could be usefully employed. Mr. Poole went out with me on the 5th and 6th to assist in the measurement of the new base line I had deemed it prudent29 to run, for the purpose, as I have said, of correcting any previous error. Mr. Piesse examined the pork, and according to my instructions made out a list of the stores on hand, when I found it necessary to make a reduction in the allowance of tea and sugar, in consequence of the loss of weight. The former from 4 oz. to 3 oz. per week, the latter from 2 lb. to 1 1/2 lb.
The heat had now become excessive, the thermometer seldom falling under 96 degrees, and rising to 112 degrees and 125 degrees in the shade. The surface of the ground never cooled, and it was with difficulty that we retained any stones in our hands that had been exposed to the sun; still we had not as yet experienced a hot wind. The existing heat was caused by its radiation from the earth’s surface and the intensity51 of the solar rays.
The horses Mr. Poole had out with him, had suffered a good deal, and considering that if the country should continue as heretofore, and we should be obliged to hunt incessantly52 for water, we should require relays, I thought it advisable to do away with the horse-team, as the consumption of provisions now enabled me to divide the load the horses had drawn53 equally amongst the bullocks. We finished the base line on the 7th, and I was glad to find that it was of sufficient length to ensure a favourable result, it being rather more than 10 miles.
All drainage in the creek had now ceased, and we were therefore dependent on the water in the gully, which, although invaluable54 as a present supply, would soon have been exhausted, where our total consumption could not have been less than from 1000 to 1100 gallons a day, for the horses and bullocks drank a fearful quantity. Had Flood been unsuccessful in the object of his journey, therefore, I should in the course of a few days have been obliged to fall back, but he returned on the 7th, bringing news that he had found a beautiful little creek, in which there were long deep water-holes shaded by gum-trees, with an abundance of grass in its neighbourhood. This creek he said was about 40 miles in advance, but there was no water between us and it. He also confirmed an impression I had had on my mind from our first crossing the Barrier Range, that it would not continue to any great distance northwards; Flood said that from what he could observe the hills appeared to be gradually declining, as if they would soon terminate. He saw three native women at the creek, but did not approach them, thinking it better not to excite their alarm. These were the first natives we had seen on the western side of the hills.
On the 9th we again moved forward, on a course a little to the eastward of north, over the barren, stony55, and undulating ground that lies between the main and outer ranges. The discovery of this creek by Flood, so much finer than any we had hitherto crossed, led me to hope that if the mountains should cease I might fall in with other ranges beyond them coming from the north-east, as forming the northwest slope of the valley of the Darling. I was anxious, therefore, to examine the ranges as we advanced, and leaving the party in Mr. Poole’s charge, rode away to ascend some of the hills and to take bearings from them to some particular peaks, the bearing of which had already been taken from different elevations56; but from no hill to which I went could a view of the south-west horizon be obtained, so much lower had the hills become, and from their general aspect I was fully50 satisfied that we should soon arrive at their termination. From the last point I ascended, as from others, there was a large mountain bearing N.E. by N. from me, distant 50 or 60 miles, which I rightly judged to be Mount Lyell. It was a bold, round hill, without any particular feature, but evidently the loftiest connected with the Barrier Range. Mount Babbage bore N. by E. and was only just visible above the dark scrubs between me and it. The teams were keeping rather nearer the hills than Flood had gone, and were moving directly for a line of trees apparently57 marking the course of a creek. On my way to overtake the party, I met Mr. Browne and Flood on the plains, with whom I rode back. As we crossed these plains we flushed numerous pigeons — a pair, indeed, from under almost every bush of rhagodia that we passed. This bird was similar to one Mr. Browne had shot in the pine forest, and this was clearly the breeding season; there were no young birds, and in most of the nests only one egg. We should not, however, have encumbered58 ourselves with any of the young at that time, but looked to a later period for the chance of being able to take some of that beautiful description of pigeon home with us. The old birds rose like grouse59, and would afford splendid shooting if found in such a situation at any other period than that of incubation; at other times however, as I shall have to inform the reader, they congregate60 in vast flocks, and are migratory61.
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1
ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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meridian
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| adj.子午线的；全盛期的 | |
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hazardous
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| adj.(有)危险的，冒险的；碰运气的 | |
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eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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prudence
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| n.谨慎，精明，节俭 | |
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justify
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| vt.证明…正当(或有理)，为…辩护 | |
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creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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ascertaining
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的现在分词 ) | |
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immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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assent
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| v.批准，认可；n.批准，认可 | |
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postpone
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| v.延期，推迟 | |
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torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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overflowing
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| n. 溢出物,溢流 adj. 充沛的，充满的 动词overflow的现在分词形式 | |
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14
severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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15
scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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16
ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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17
ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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mica
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| n.云母 | |
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slate
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| n.板岩，石板，石片，石板色，候选人名单；adj.暗蓝灰色的，含板岩的；vt.用石板覆盖，痛打，提名，预订 | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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21
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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owls
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| n.猫头鹰( owl的名词复数 ) | |
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screeching
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| v.发出尖叫声( screech的现在分词 )；发出粗而刺耳的声音；高叫 | |
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discordant
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| adj.不调和的 | |
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vexed
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| adj.争论不休的；（指问题等）棘手的；争论不休的问题；烦恼的v.使烦恼( vex的过去式和过去分词 )；使苦恼；使生气；详细讨论 | |
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gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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prudent
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| adj.谨慎的，有远见的，精打细算的 | |
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prudently
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| adv. 谨慎地，慎重地 | |
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favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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downwards
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| adj./adv.向下的（地），下行的（地） | |
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procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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creeks
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| n.小湾( creek的名词复数 )；小港；小河；小溪 | |
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poking
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| n. 刺，戳，袋 vt. 拨开，刺，戳 vi. 戳，刺，捅，搜索，伸出，行动散慢 | |
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fatigued
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| adj. 疲乏的 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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swampy
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| adj.沼泽的，湿地的 | |
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40
ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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41
sterile
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| adj.不毛的，不孕的，无菌的，枯燥的，贫瘠的 | |
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42
ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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43
ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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44
brackish
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| adj.混有盐的；咸的 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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46
swarms
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| 蜂群，一大群( swarm的名词复数 ) | |
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47
destitute
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| adj.缺乏的；穷困的 | |
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48
penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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49
aquatic
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| adj.水生的，水栖的 | |
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50
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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51
intensity
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| n.强烈，剧烈；强度；烈度 | |
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52
incessantly
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| ad.不停地 | |
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53
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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54
invaluable
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| adj.无价的，非常宝贵的，极为贵重的 | |
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55
stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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56
elevations
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| （水平或数量）提高( elevation的名词复数 )； 高地； 海拔； 提升 | |
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57
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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58
encumbered
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| v.妨碍，阻碍，拖累( encumber的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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59
grouse
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| n.松鸡；v.牢骚，诉苦 | |
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60
congregate
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| v.(使)集合，聚集 | |
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migratory
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| n.候鸟，迁移 | |
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