At a little distance from the creek1 to the N.W., upon a rising piece of ground, and certainly above the reach of floods, there were seven or eight huts, very different in shape and substance from any we had seen. They were made of strong boughs2 fixed3 in a circle in the ground, so as to meet in a common centre; on these there was, as in some other huts I have had occasion to describe, a thick seam of grass and leaves, and over this again a compact coating of clay. They were from eight to ten feet in diameter, and about four and a half feet high, the opening into them not being larger than to allow a man to creep in. These huts also faced the north-west, and each had a smaller one attached to it as shewn in the sketch4. Like those before seen they had been left in the neatest order by their occupants, and were evidently used during the rainy season, as they were at some little distance from the creek, and near one of those bare patches in which water must lodge5 at such times. At whatever season of the year the natives occupy these huts they must be a great comfort to them, for in winter they must be particularly warm, and in summer cooler than the outer air; but the greatest benefit they can confer on these poor people must be that of keeping them from ants, flies, and mosquitos: it is impossible to describe to the reader the annoyance6 we experienced from the flies during the day, and the ants at night. The latter in truth swarmed7 in myriads8, worked under our covering, and creeping all over us, prevented our sleeping. The flies on the other hand began their attacks at early dawn, and whether we were in dense9 brush, on the open plain, or the herbless mountain top, they were equally numerous and equally troublesome. On the present occasion Mr. Browne and I regretted we had not taken possession of the deserted10 huts, as, if we had, we should have got rid of our tormentors, for there were not any to be seen near them. From the fact of these huts facing the north-west I conclude that their more inclement11 weather is from the opposite point of the compass. It was also evident from the circumstance of their being unoccupied at that time (January), that they were winter habitations, at which season the natives, no doubt, suffer greatly from cold and damp, the country being there much under water, at least from appearances. I had remarked that as we proceeded northwards the huts were more compactly built, and the opening or entrance into them smaller, as if the inhabitants of the more northern interior felt the winter’s cold in proportion to the summer heat.
Our position at this point was in latitude12 29 degrees 43 minutes S., and in longitude13 141 degrees 14 minutes E., the variation being 5 degrees 21 minutes East. I had intended pushing on immediately to the ranges, and examining the country to the north-east; but I thought it prudent14 ere I did this to ascertain15 the farther course of this creek, as it appeared from observations we had just made that the fall of waters was to the eastward16. We accordingly started at daylight on the 20th, but after tracing it for a few miles, found that it turned sharp round to the westward17 and spread over a flat, beyond which its channel was nowhere to be found. I therefore turned towards the ranges, and arriving at the upper water-hole at half-past two, determined18 to stop until the temperature should cool down in the afternoon before I proceeded along the line of hills to the N.E., for the day had been terrifically hot, and both ourselves and our horses were overpowered with extreme lassitude. At a quarter past 3, p.m. on the 21st of January, the thermometer had risen to 131 degrees in the shade, and to 154 degrees in the direct rays of the sun. In the evening however we pushed on for about ten miles, and halted on a plain about a mile from the base of the hills, without water.
On the 22nd we continued our journey to the north-east, through a country that was anything but promising19. Although we were traversing plains, our view was limited by acacias and other trees growing upon them. Notwithstanding that we kept close in to the ranges, the water-courses we crossed could hardly be recognised as such, as they scarcely reached to a greater distance than a mile and a half on the plains, before they spread out and terminated. As we advanced the brush became thicker, nor was there anything to cheer us onwards. In the afternoon therefore I turned towards the hills, and ascended20 one of them, to ascertain if there was any new object in sight, but here again disappointment awaited us.
The hills were more detached than in other places, and much lower. The brush swept over them, and we could see it stretching to the horizon on the distant plains between them. Excepting where the nearer hills rose above it, that horizon was unbroken; nor were the hills, although detached groups still existed to the north-east, distinguishable from the dark plains round them, as the brush extended over all, and the same sombre hue21 pervaded22 everything. I should still, however, have persevered23 in exploring that hopeless region; but my mind had for the last day or two been anxiously drawn24 to the state of the camp, and the straits to which I felt assured it would have been put, if Mr. Poole had not succeeded in finding water in greater quantity than that on which the people depended when Mr. Browne and I left them. Having been twelve days absent, I felt convinced that the water in the creek had dried up, and thought it more than probable that Mr. Poole had been forced to move from his position. Under such circumstances, I abandoned, for the time, any further examination of the north-east interior, and turning round to the south-west, passed up a flat rather than a valley between the hills, and halted on it at half-past 6 p.m. On the 23rd, we continued on a south-west course, and gradually ascended the more elevated part of the range; at 2 p.m. reached the water-hole we discovered the day we crossed the hills to the little peaks. Our journey back to the camp was only remarkable25 for the heat to which we were exposed. We reached it on the 24th of the month, and were really glad to get under shelter of the tents. All the water in the different creeks26 we passed in going out, had sunk many inches, and as I had feared, that at the camp had entirely27 vanished, and Mr. Poole having been obliged to dig a hole in the middle of the creek, was obtaining a precarious28 supply for the men, the cattle being driven to a neighbouring pond, which they had all but exhausted29.
As the reader will naturally conclude, I was far from satisfied with the result of this last excursion. It had indeed determined the cessation of high land to the north and north-east; for although I had not reached the termination of the ranges in the latter direction, no doubt rested on my mind but that they gradually fell to a level with the plains. We had penetrated30 to lat. 28 degrees 43 minutes S., and to long. 141 degrees 4 minutes 30 seconds; but had found a country worse than that over which we had already passed — a country, in truth, that under existing circumstances was perfectly31 impracticable. Yet from appearances I could not but think that an inland sea existed not far from the point we had gained. As I have already observed, the fall of all the creeks from Flood’s Creek had been to the eastward, and from what we could judge at our extreme north, the dip of the country was also to the eastward. I thought it more than probable, therefore, that we were still in the valley of the Darling, and that if we could have persevered in a northerly course, we should have crossed to the opposite fall of waters, and to a decided32 change of country.
We had hitherto made but few additions to our collections. A new hawk33 and a few parrots were all the birds we shot; and if I except another new and beautiful species of Grevillia, we added nothing to our botanical collections. The geological formation was such as I have already described — a compact quartz34 of a dirty white. Of this adamantine rock all the hills were now composed.
A remarkable feature in the geology of the hills we had recently visited was, as I have remarked, that they were covered with the same productions and the same stones as the plains below, of which they seemed to have formed a part. Milky35 quartz was scattered36 over them, although no similar formation was visible; of manganese, basalt, and ironstone, with other substances, there were now no indications. None of these fragments had been rounded by attrition, but still retained their sharp edges and seemed to be little changed by time.
Mr. Poole informed me, that the day he returned to the party he proceeded towards the little range I had directed him to examine; in which, I should observe, both he and Mr. Browne thought there might be water, as they had passed to the westward of it, on their last journey towards the hills, and had then noticed it. Mr. Poole stated, that on approaching the range he arrived at a line of gumtrees, under which there was a long deep sheet of water; that crossing at the head of this, he entered a rocky glen, where there were successive pools in stony37 basins, in which he considered there was an inexhaustible supply of water for us; but that although the water near the camp had dried up, he had been unwilling38 to move until my return. The reader may well imagine the satisfaction this news gave me; for had my officer not been so fortunate, our retreat upon the Darling would have been inevitable39, whatever difficulties might have attended such a movement — for we were in some measure cut off from it, or should only have made the retreat at an irreparable sacrifice of animals. Mr. Poole had also been down the creek whereon the camp was posted, and had found that it overflowed40 a large plain, but failing to recover the channel, he supposed it had there terminated. He met a large tribe of natives, amounting in all to forty or more, who appeared to be changing their place of abode41. They were very quiet and inoffensive, and seemed rather to avoid than to court any intercourse42 with the party.
Foulkes, one of the bullock drivers, had had a sharp attack of illness, but was in some degree recovered. In all other respects everything was regular, and the stock at hand in the event of their being wanted.
I was exceedingly glad to find that the natives had not shewn any unfriendly disposition43 towards Mr. Poole and his men; but I subsequently learnt from him a circumstance that will in some measure account for their friendly demonstrations44. It would appear that Sullivan and Turpin when out one day, during my absence, after the cattle, saw a native and his lubra crossing the plains to the eastward, with some stones for grinding their grass seed, it being their harvest time. Sullivan went after them; but they were exceedingly alarmed, and as he approached the woman set fire to the grass; but on seeing him bound over the flaming tussocks, they threw themselves on the ground, and as the lad saw their terror he left them and returned to his companion. No sooner, however, had these poor creatures escaped one dreaded45 object than they encountered another, in the shape of Mack, who was on horseback. As soon as they saw him they took to their heels; but putting his horse into a canter, he was up with them before they were aware of it; on this they threw down their stones, bags, net, and fire-stick, and scrambled46 up into a tree. The fire-stick set the grass on fire, and all their valuables would have been consumed, if Mack had not very properly dismounted and extinguished the flames, and put the net and bags in a place of safety. He could not, however, persuade either of the natives to descend47, and therefore rode away. Mack happened to be with Mr. Poole at the time he met the tribe, and was recognised by the man and woman, who offered both him and Mr. Poole some of their cakes. Had the behaviour of my men been different, they would most likely have suffered for it; but I was exceedingly pleased at their strict compliance48 with my orders in this respect, and did not fail to express my satisfaction, and to point out the beneficial consequences of such conduct.
Mr. Poole having thus communicated with the natives, I was anxious to profit by it, and if possible to establish a friendly intercourse; the day after my arrival at the camp, therefore, I went down the creek with Mack in the hope of seeing them. I took a horse loaded with sugar and presents, and had every anticipation49 of success; but we were disappointed, since the whole tribe had crossed the plains, on the hard surface of which we lost their tracks. On this ride I found a beautiful little kidney bean growing as a runner amongst the grass, on small patches of land subject to flood. It had a yellow blossom, and the seed was very small and difficult to collect, as it appeared to be immediately attacked by insects.
The fact of the natives having crossed the plain confirmed my impression that the creek picked up beyond it, and I determined on the first favourable50 opportunity to ascertain that fact. It now, however, only remained for me to place the camp in a more convenient position. To do this we moved on the 27th, and whilst Mr. Browne led the party across the plains, I rode on ahead with Mr. Poole to select the ground on which to pitch our tents. At the distance of seven miles we arrived at the entrance of the little rocky glen through which the creek passes, and at once found ourselves on the brink51 of a fine pond of water, shaded by trees and cliffs. The scenery was so different from any we had hitherto seen, that I was quite delighted, but the ground being sandy was unfit for us, we therefore turned down the creek towards the long sheet of water Mr. Poole had mentioned, and waited there until the drays arrived, when we pitched our tents close to it, little imagining that we were destined52 to remain at that lonely spot for six weary months. We were not then aware that our advance and our retreat were alike cut off.
点击收听单词发音
1 creek | |
n.小溪,小河,小湾 | |
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2 boughs | |
大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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3 fixed | |
adj.固定的,不变的,准备好的;(计算机)固定的 | |
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4 sketch | |
n.草图;梗概;素描;v.素描;概述 | |
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5 lodge | |
v.临时住宿,寄宿,寄存,容纳;n.传达室,小旅馆 | |
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6 annoyance | |
n.恼怒,生气,烦恼 | |
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7 swarmed | |
密集( swarm的过去式和过去分词 ); 云集; 成群地移动; 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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8 myriads | |
n.无数,极大数量( myriad的名词复数 ) | |
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9 dense | |
a.密集的,稠密的,浓密的;密度大的 | |
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10 deserted | |
adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
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11 inclement | |
adj.严酷的,严厉的,恶劣的 | |
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12 latitude | |
n.纬度,行动或言论的自由(范围),(pl.)地区 | |
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13 longitude | |
n.经线,经度 | |
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14 prudent | |
adj.谨慎的,有远见的,精打细算的 | |
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15 ascertain | |
vt.发现,确定,查明,弄清 | |
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16 eastward | |
adv.向东;adj.向东的;n.东方,东部 | |
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17 westward | |
n.西方,西部;adj.西方的,向西的;adv.向西 | |
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18 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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19 promising | |
adj.有希望的,有前途的 | |
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20 ascended | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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21 hue | |
n.色度;色调;样子 | |
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22 pervaded | |
v.遍及,弥漫( pervade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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23 persevered | |
v.坚忍,坚持( persevere的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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24 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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25 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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26 creeks | |
n.小湾( creek的名词复数 );小港;小河;小溪 | |
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27 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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28 precarious | |
adj.不安定的,靠不住的;根据不足的 | |
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29 exhausted | |
adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
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30 penetrated | |
adj. 击穿的,鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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31 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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32 decided | |
adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
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33 hawk | |
n.鹰,骗子;鹰派成员 | |
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34 quartz | |
n.石英 | |
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35 milky | |
adj.牛奶的,多奶的;乳白色的 | |
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36 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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37 stony | |
adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
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38 unwilling | |
adj.不情愿的 | |
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39 inevitable | |
adj.不可避免的,必然发生的 | |
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40 overflowed | |
溢出的 | |
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41 abode | |
n.住处,住所 | |
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42 intercourse | |
n.性交;交流,交往,交际 | |
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43 disposition | |
n.性情,性格;意向,倾向;排列,部署 | |
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44 demonstrations | |
证明( demonstration的名词复数 ); 表明; 表达; 游行示威 | |
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45 dreaded | |
adj.令人畏惧的;害怕的v.害怕,恐惧,担心( dread的过去式和过去分词) | |
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46 scrambled | |
v.快速爬行( scramble的过去式和过去分词 );攀登;争夺;(军事飞机)紧急起飞 | |
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47 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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48 compliance | |
n.顺从;服从;附和;屈从 | |
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49 anticipation | |
n.预期,预料,期望 | |
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50 favourable | |
adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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51 brink | |
n.(悬崖、河流等的)边缘,边沿 | |
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52 destined | |
adj.命中注定的;(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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