Reflecting on the singular character of the country below me, as I stood on the pointed7 termination of the ridge8 the party had just ascended9, I could not but think how fortunate it was we had not found it in a wet state, for in such a case to cross it would have been impossible. I felt assured indeed, from the moment we set foot on it, that in the event of rain, while we should be in the more distant interior, return would be altogether impracticable, but we had neither time to pause on, or provide against, the consequences of any heavy fall that might have set in. I do not think that this flashed across the minds of any of the party excepting my own, who would not have been justified10 in leading men forward as I was doing, without weighing every probable chance of difficulty or success.
As the line of the sand ridges11 was nearly parallel to that of our course, we descended12 to a polygonum flat, and keeping the ridge upon our left, proceeded on a bearing of 342 degrees, or on a N.N.W. course, up a kind of valley. Whilst thus riding leisurely13 along, Flood, whose eyes were always about him, noticed something dark moving in the bushes, to which he called our attention. It was a dark object, and was then perfectly14 stationary15; as Flood however insisted that he saw it move, Mr. Browne went forward to ascertain16 what it could be, when a native woman jumped up and ran away. She had squatted17 down and put a large trough before her, the more effectually to conceal18 her person, and must have been astonished at the quickness of our sight in discovering her. We were much amused at the figure she cut, but as she exhibited great alarm Mr. Browne refrained from following her; after getting to some distance she turned round to look at us, and then walked off at a more leisurely pace. At the distance of about four miles, the sandy ridge made a short turn, and we were obliged to cross over to the opposite side to preserve our course. On gaining the top of the ridge, we saw an open box-tree forest, and a small column of smoke rising up from amongst the trees, towards which we silently bent19 our steps. Our approach had however been noticed by the natives, who no doubt were at the place not a minute before, but had now fled. We then pushed on through the forest, the ground beneath our horses’ feet being destitute20 of vegetation, and the soil composed of a whitish clay, so peculiar21 to the flooded lands of the interior. The farther we entered the depths of the forest, the more did the notes of birds assail22 our ears. Cockatoos, parrots, calodera, pigeons, crows, etc., all made that solitude23 ring with their wild notes, and as (with the exception of the ducks on the southern side of the Stony24 Desert) we had not seen any of the feathered race for many days, we were now astonished at their numbers and variety. About an hour before sunset we arrived on the banks of a large creek, with a bed of couch grass, but no water. The appearance of this creek, however, was so promising25 that we momentarily expected to see a pond glittering before us, but rode on until sunset ere we arrived at a place which had attracted our attention as we approached it. Somewhat to the right, but in the bed of the creek, there were two magnificent trees, the forest still extending back on either side. Beneath these trees there was a large mound26 of earth, that appeared to have been thrown up. On reaching the spot we discovered a well of very unusual dimensions, and as there was water in it, we halted for the night.
On a closer examination of the locality, this well appeared to be of great value to the inhabitants. It was 22 feet deep and 8 feet broad at the top. There was a landing place, but no steps down to it, and a recess27 had been made to hold the water, which was slightly brackish28, the rim29 of the basin being also incrusted with salt. Paths led from this spot to almost every point of the compass, and in walking along one to the left, I came on a village consisting of nineteen huts, but there were not any signs of recent occupation. Troughs and stones for grinding seed were lying about, with broken spears and shields, but it was evident that the inhabitants were now dispersed30 in other places, and only assembled here to collect the box-tree seeds, for small boughs31 of that tree were lying in heaps on the ground, and the trees themselves bore the marks of having been stripped. There were two or three huts in the village of large size, to each of which two smaller ones were attached, opening into its main apartment, but none of them had been left in such order as those I have already described.
It being the hour of sunset when we reached the well, the trees were crowded with birds of all kinds coming for water, and the reader may judge of the straits to which they were driven, when he learns that they dived down into so dark a chamber32 to procure33 the life-sustaining element it contained. The wildest birds of the forest were here obliged to yield to the wants of nature at any risk, but notwithstanding, they were exceedingly wary34; and we shot only a few cockatoos. The fact of there being so large a well at this point, (a work that must have required the united labour of a powerful tribe to complete), assured us that this distant part of the interior, however useless and forbidding to civilized35 man, was not without inhabitants, but at the same time it plainly indicated, that water must be scarce. Indeed, considering that the birds of the forest had powers of flight to go where they would, I could not but regard it as a most unfavourable sign, that so many had collected here. Had this well contained a sufficiency of water, it would have been of the utmost value to us, but there was not more than enough for our wants, so that, although I should gladly have halted for a day, as our horses were both ill and tired, necessity obliged me to continue my journey, and accordingly on the 29th we resumed our progress into the interior on our original course. At about a mile we broke through the forest, and entered an open earthy plain, such as I believe man never before crossed. Subject to be laid under water by the creek we had just left, and to the effects of an almost vertical37 sun, its surface was absolutely so rent and torn by solar heat, that there was scarcely room for the horses to tread, and they kept constantly slipping their hind38 feet into chasms39 from eight to ten feet deep, into which the earth fell with a hollow rumbling40 sound, as if into a grave. The poor horse in the cart had a sad task, and it surprised me, how we all at length got safely over the plain, which was between five and six miles in breadth, but we managed it, and at that distance found ourselves on the banks of another creek, in the bed of which there was plenty of grass but no water. I was however exceedingly anxious to give the horses a day’s rest; for several of them were seriously griped, and had either taken something that disagreed with them, or were beginning to suffer from constant work and irregularity of food. Mr. Browne too was unwell and Lewis complaining, so that it was advisable to indulge ourselves if possible. I therefore determined41 to trace the creek downwards42, in the hope of finding water, and at a mile came upon a shallow pond where I gladly halted, for by this time several of the horses had swollen43 to a great size, and were evidently in much pain.
After arranging the little bivouac our attention was turned to the horses, and Mr. Browne found it necessary to bleed Flood’s horse, to allay44 the inflammatory symptoms that were upon him. Still however he got worse, and no remedy we had in our power to apply seemed to do him good. The poor animal threw himself down violently on the ground, and bruised45 himself all over, so that we were obliged to fasten him up, but as there appeared to be no fear of his wandering, at sunset he was allowed to be loose. He remained near me for the greater part of the night, and was last seen close to where I was lying, but in the morning was no where to be found, and although we searched for a whole day, and made extensive sweeps to get on his track we never saw him more, and concluded he had died under some bush. This was the horse we recovered on the Murray, the same that had escaped from the government paddock in Adelaide. The other animals had in some measure recovered, and the additional day of rest they got while we were searching for Flood’s horse, enabled me to resume my journey on the last day of August. Our course being one of 335 degrees to the west of north, or nearly N.N.W., and that of the sandy ridges being 340 degrees we necessarily crossed them at a very acute angle, and the horses suffered a good deal. In the afternoon we travelled over large bare plains, of a most difficult and distressing46 kind, the ground absolutely yawning underneath47 us, perfectly destitute of vegetation, and denuded48 of timber, excepting here and there, where a stunted49 box-tree was to be seen. While on the sand hills, the general covering of which was spinifex, there were a few hakea and low shrubs50. On such ground as that whereon we were travelling, it would have been hopeless to look for water, nevertheless our search was constant, but we were obliged to halt without having found any, and to make ourselves as comfortable as we could. All the surface water left by the July rain had entirely51 disappeared, and what now remained even in the creeks52 was muddy and thick. It was indeed at the best most disgusting beverage53, nor would boiling cause any great sediment54. Every here and there, as we travelled along, we passed some holes scooped55 out by the natives to catch rain, and in some of these there was still a muddy residuum; we moreover observed that the inhabitants of this desert made these holes in places the best adapted to their purpose, where if the slightest shower occurred, the water falling on hard clay would necessarily run into them.
The circumstances under which we halted in the evening of the 31st of August were very embarrassing. It was evident that the country into which we were now advancing, was drier and more difficult than the country we had left behind. It was impossible, indeed, to hope that the animals would get on, if it should continue as we had found it thus far. There were numerous high ridges of sand to the westward, in addition to those on the plains, and so full of holes and chasms were the latter, that the horses would soon have been placed hors de combat, if they had continued to traverse them. Moreover, I could not but foresee that unless I used great precaution our retreat would be infallibly cut off. Whatever water we had passed, since the morning we commenced our journey over the Stony Desert, was not to be depended upon for more than four or five days, and although we might reckon with some certainty on the native well in the box-tree forest, the supply it had yielded was so very small that we could not expect to obtain more from it than would suffice ourselves and one or two of the horses. Taking all these matters into consideration, I determined on once more turning to the north for a day or two, in order that by keeping along the flats, close under the ridges, I might get firmer travelling for the cart, and in the expectation, that we should be more likely to find water in thus doing, than by crossing the succession of ridges. Accordingly, on the 1st of September, we started on a course of 6 degrees to the west of north, or a N. 1/2 W. course, that allowing for variation, being within 1 1/2 points of a due north course. On this we went up the flat where we had slept. By keeping close to the ridges we found, as I had anticipated, firmer ground, though the centre of the flat was still of the worst description. There were a few small box-trees to be seen as we passed along, but scarcely any minor56 vegetation. At about nine miles we were attracted by the green appearance of some low polygonum bushes, to which we went, and under them found two small puddles58 of water, that we might easily have passed. They must have been three feet deep after the rains, but were now barely five inches, and about the size of a loo table. However, we had no choice, and as the horse had suffered so much from the rickety motion of the cart, caused by the inequalities of the ground, and there was a silky kind of grass growing sparingly around, I stopped here for the rest of the day to effect necessary repairs. When, however, we came to examine the wheels, we found that so many of the spokes59 were shivered and had shrunk, that Lewis got on but slowly, renewing only such as were found absolutely useless; we were consequently detained at this point another day, but on the 3rd resumed our journey up the flat, and at two miles crossed a small sandy ridge into the opposite flat, and at five miles stopped at a second ridge of some height for Lewis and Joseph, who were a good way behind with the cart. On coming up, they informed us that they had fallen in with a tribe of natives, twelve in number, shortly after starting, and had remained some time with them. They were at a dirty puddle57, such as we had left, and were at no great distance from our little bivouac. Joseph good-naturedly gave one of them his knife, but he could not understand a word they said.
After crossing the sand ridge, we kept on the edge of the flats, as I have said, for the sake of the horses. The ridges had now become very long, and varied60 in breadth from a few hundred yards to a mile. Box-trees were scattered61 over them, and, although generally bare, they were not altogether destitute of grass or herbage; the ridges of sand, on the contrary, still continued unbroken, and several were covered with spinifex; but on the whole the country appeared to be improving, and the fall of waters being decidedly somewhat to the eastward62 of south, or towards the Stony Desert, I entertained hopes that we had crossed the lowest part of the interior, and reached the southerly drainage. We were again fortunate in coming on another pond at 20 miles, where we halted, the country round about us wearing an improved appearance. Still our situation was very precarious63, and we were risking a great deal by thus pushing forward, for although I call the hollows (in which we found the water) ponds, they were strictly64 speaking the dregs only of what had been such, and were thick, black, and muddy; but the present aspect of the country led us to hope for a favourable36 change, and on the morning of the 4th we still held our northerly course up the flat, on which we had travelled the greater part of the day before. As we advanced, it became more open and grassy65, and at three miles we found a small supply of very tolerable water in the bed of a shallow watercourse. We had ridden about ten miles from the place where we had slept, and Mr. Browne and I were talking together, when Flood, who was some little distance a-head, held up his hat and called out to us. We were quite sure from this circumstance that he had seen something unusual, and on riding up were astonished at finding ourselves on the banks of a beautiful creek, the bed of which was full both of water and grass. The bank on our side was twenty feet high, and shelved too rapidly to admit of our taking the horses down, but the opposite bank was comparatively low.
Immediately within view were two large sheets of water around the margin67 of which reeds were growing, but nevertheless these ponds were exceedingly shallow. The direction of this fine watercourse was N. by W. and S. by E., coming from the first and falling to the last point, thus enabling us to trace it up without changing our own. A little above where we intersected its channel two small tributaries68 join it, or, I am more inclined to think, two small branches go from it; for we had apparently69 been rising as we came up the valley, but more especially as the direction from which they appeared to come (the S.W.), was almost opposite to the course of the creek itself. On proceeding70 upwards71 we observed that there were considerable intervals72, along which the channel of the creek was dry; but where such was the case, it was abundantly covered with couch grass, of which the horses were exceedingly fond. We passed several sheets of water, however, some of which had a depth of two feet, although the greater number were shallow. After following it for ten miles, we halted with brighter prospects, and under more cheering circumstances than we had any right to anticipate; but, although the creek promised so well, the valley on either side of it was more than usually barren and scrubby, and was bounded in, as usual, by high ridges of sand, that still continued to head us in unbroken lines, and were the most prominent and prevailing73 feature of the interior; and although we were now within two degrees of the Tropics, our latitude74 at this point being 25 degrees 34 minutes 19 seconds, we had not as yet observed the slightest change in the vegetation, or anything to intimate our approach to a tropical country.
On the 5th we started on a course of 340 degrees, the upward course of the creek. At two miles it turned to the N. E, but soon came round again to N.W., and afterwards kept a general course of 10 degrees to the west of north. Its channel gradually contracted as we advanced, and the polygonum grew to the size of a very large bush upon its banks. At nine miles we arrived at a creek junction75 from the S.W. and traced it over grassy plains, on which some Bauhimia were growing, but finding that it took its rise in a kind of marsh76 occupying the centre of the plain into which it had led us, we turned away to the main creek. The country now became more open, and tertiary limestone77 shewed itself on the plains, and at a short distance from the creek a vein78 of milky79 quartz80 cropped out near a pretty sheet of water. As we proceeded upwards sandstone traversed its bed in several places; in some degree contracting its channel. A short time before we halted we passed a very large and long sheet of water, on which there were a good many wild fowl81, so very shy, that although the brush grew close to the banks of the creek, so as to favour our creeping upon them, we could not shoot any.
Notwithstanding that the creek had thus changed its appearance from what it was where we first came upon it (its waters being muddy with less grass in its channel), we had no reason to suppose that it would disappoint our hopes; we therefore resumed our journey on the morning of the 6th, without any idea that we should meet with any check in the course of the day. As the immediate66 neighbourhood of this creek had become scrubby, we kept wide of it and travelled for 12 miles, on a bearing of 340, over flats destitute of all manner of vegetation, but thinly scattered over with the box, acacia and the Bauhimia. These flats were still bounded on either side by high sandy ridges, covered with spinifex, excepting on their summits, which were perfectly bare. The view from them both to the eastward and westward was, as it were, over a sandy sea; ridge after ridge succeeding each other as far as the eye could stretch the vision. To the north the flat appeared to terminate at a low sand hill bearing 335 degrees or N.N.W. 1/2 W.
When we again came on the creek, there was an abundance both of water and grass in its bed, but just above, the channel suddenly turned to the N.E. and in again keeping wide of it to avoid the inequalities of the ground, we arrived at the little sand hill that had previously82 bounded our view, and on ascending83 it, found that immediately beneath us, there was a clear small lake, covered with wild fowl. The colour of the water immediately betrayed its quality, and we found on tasting that it was too salt to drink. An extensive grassy flat extended to the westward of the lake, bounded by box-trees, and the channel of the creek still held its course to the N.E. I could not therefore but suppose, that this was a junction from that point, and therefore determined on passing to the opposite side, in anticipation84 that I should again come on our old friend amidst the trees. We accordingly crossed at the bottom of the little lake, and in so doing found amidst the other herbage two withered85 stalks of millet86.
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1
scarcity
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| n.缺乏，不足，萧条 | |
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northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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prospects
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| n.希望，前途(恒为复数) | |
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lagoon
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| n.泻湖，咸水湖 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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9
ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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justified
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| a.正当的，有理的 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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13
leisurely
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| adj.悠闲的；从容的，慢慢的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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15
stationary
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| adj.固定的，静止不动的 | |
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ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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squatted
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的过去式和过去分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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conceal
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，隐蔽 | |
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bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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destitute
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| adj.缺乏的；穷困的 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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assail
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| v.猛烈攻击，抨击，痛斥 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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promising
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| adj.有希望的，有前途的 | |
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mound
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| n.土墩，堤，小山；v.筑堤，用土堆防卫 | |
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recess
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| n.短期休息，壁凹（墙上装架子，柜子等凹处） | |
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brackish
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| adj.混有盐的；咸的 | |
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rim
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| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
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dispersed
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| adj. 被驱散的, 被分散的, 散布的 | |
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boughs
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| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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procure
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| vt.获得，取得，促成；vi.拉皮条 | |
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wary
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| adj.谨慎的，机警的，小心的 | |
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civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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vertical
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| adj.垂直的，顶点的，纵向的；n.垂直物，垂直的位置 | |
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hind
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| adj.后面的，后部的 | |
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chasms
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| 裂缝( chasm的名词复数 )； 裂口； 分歧； 差别 | |
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rumbling
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| n. 隆隆声, 辘辘声 adj. 隆隆响的 动词rumble的现在分词 | |
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41
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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downwards
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| adj./adv.向下的（地），下行的（地） | |
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swollen
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| adj.肿大的，水涨的；v.使变大，肿胀 | |
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allay
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| v.消除，减轻(恐惧、怀疑等) | |
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45
bruised
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| [医]青肿的，瘀紫的 | |
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distressing
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| a.使人痛苦的 | |
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underneath
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| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
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denuded
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| adj.[医]变光的，裸露的v.使赤裸( denude的过去式和过去分词 )；剥光覆盖物 | |
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49
stunted
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| adj.矮小的；发育迟缓的 | |
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50
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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51
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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52
creeks
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| n.小湾( creek的名词复数 )；小港；小河；小溪 | |
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53
beverage
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| n.(水，酒等之外的)饮料 | |
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54
sediment
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| n.沉淀，沉渣，沉积(物) | |
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55
scooped
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| v.抢先报道( scoop的过去式和过去分词 )；（敏捷地）抱起；抢先获得；用铲[勺]等挖（洞等） | |
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56
minor
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| adj.较小(少)的，较次要的；n.辅修学科；vi.辅修 | |
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puddle
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| n.(雨)水坑，泥潭 | |
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puddles
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| n.水坑， （尤指道路上的）雨水坑( puddle的名词复数 ) | |
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spokes
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| n.（车轮的）辐条( spoke的名词复数 )；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 | |
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varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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precarious
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| adj.不安定的，靠不住的；根据不足的 | |
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strictly
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| adv.严厉地，严格地；严密地 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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tributaries
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| n. 支流 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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prevailing
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| adj.盛行的；占优势的；主要的 | |
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latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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junction
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| n.连接，接合；交叉点，接合处，枢纽站 | |
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marsh
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| n.沼泽，湿地 | |
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limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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vein
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| n.血管，静脉；叶脉，纹理；情绪；vt.使成脉络 | |
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milky
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| adj.牛奶的，多奶的；乳白色的 | |
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quartz
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| n.石英 | |
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fowl
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| n.家禽，鸡，禽肉 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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anticipation
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| n.预期，预料，期望 | |
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withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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millet
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| n.小米，谷子 | |
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