I was not at first aware, what object our new friends had in following or rather accompanying us; but, at about a mile and a half, we came to a native hut at which there was an old man and his two lubras. The tall young man introduced him to us as his father, in consequence of which I dismounted, and shook hands with the old gentleman, and, as I had no hatchet8 or knife to give him, I parted my blanket and gave him half of it. We then pro2 ceeded on our journey, attended as before, and at a mile, came on two huts, at which there were from twelve to fifteen natives. Here again we were introduced by our long-legged friend, who kept pace with our animals with ease, and after a short parley9 once more moved on, but were again obliged to stop with another tribe, rather more numerous than the last, who were encamped on a dirty little puddle10 of water that was hardly drinkable; however, they very kindly11 asked us to stay and sleep, an honour I begged to decline. Thus, in the space of less than five miles, we were introduced to four different tribes, whose collective numbers amounted to seventy-one. The huts of these natives were constructed of boughs12, and were of the usual form, excepting those of the last tribe, which were open behind, forming elliptic arches of boughs, and the effect was very pretty.
These good folks also asked us to stop, and I thought I saw an expression of impatience13 on the countenance14 of my guide when I declined, and turned my horse to move on. We had been riding on a sandy kind of bank, higher than the flooded ground around us. The plains extended on either side to the north and east, nor could we distinctly trace the creek beyond the trees at the point we had crossed it, but there were a few gum-trees separated by long intervals15, that still slightly marked its course. When we left the last tribe, we rode towards a sand hill about half a mile in front, and had scarcely gone from the huts when our ambassadors, for in such a light I suppose I must consider them, set off at a trot16 and getting a-head of us disappeared over the sand hill. I was too well aware of the customs of these people, not to anticipate that there was something behind the scene, and I told Mr. Stuart that I felt satisfied we had not yet seen the whole of the population of this creek; but I was at a loss to conjecture17 why they should have squatted18 down at such muddy puddles19, when there were such magnificent sheets of water for them to encamp upon, at no great distance; however, we reached the hill soon after the natives had gone over it, and on gaining the summit were hailed with a deafening20 shout by 3 or 400 natives, who were assembled in the flat below. I do not know, that my desire to see the savage21 in his wild state, was ever more gratified than on this occasion, for I had never before come so suddenly upon so large a party. The scene was one of the most animated22 description, and was rendered still more striking from the circumstance of the native huts, at which there were a number of women and children, occupying the whole crest23 of a long piece of rising ground at the opposite side of the flat.
I checked my horse for a short time on the top of the sand hill, and gazed on the assemblage of agitated24 figures below me, covering so small a space that I could have enclosed the whole under a casting net, and then quietly rode down into the flat, followed by Mr. Stuart and my men, to one of whom I gave my horse when I dismounted, and then walked to the natives, by whom Mr. Stuart and myself were immediately surrounded.
Had these people been of an unfriendly temper, we could not by any possibility have escaped them, for our horses could not have broken into a canter to save our lives or their own. We were therefore wholly in their power, although happily for us perhaps, they were not aware of it; but, so far from exhibiting any unkind feeling, they treated us with genuine hospitality, and we might certainly have commanded whatever they had. Several of them brought us large troughs of water, and when we had taken a little, held them up for our horses to drink; an instance of nerve that is very remarkable25, for I am quite sure that no white man, (having never seen or heard of a horse before, and with the natural apprehension26 the first sight of such an animal would create,) would deliberately27 have walked up to what must have appeared to them most formidable brutes28, and placing the troughs they carried against their breast, have allowed the horses to drink, with their noses almost touching29 them. They likewise offered us some roasted ducks, and some cake. When we walked over to their camp, they pointed to a large new hut, and told us we could sleep there, but I had noticed a little hillock on which there were four box-trees, about fifty yards from the native encampment, on which, foreseeing that we could go no farther, I had already determined30 to remain, and on my intimating this to the natives they appeared highly delighted; we accordingly went to the trees, and unsaddling our animals turned them out to feed. When the natives saw us quietly seated they came over, and brought a quantity of sticks for us to make a fire, wood being extremely scarce.
The men of this tribe were, without exception, the finest of any I had seen on the Australian Continent. Their bodies were not disfigured by any scars, neither were their countenances31 by the loss of any teeth, nor were they circumcised. They were a well-made race, with a sufficiency of muscular development, and stood as erect32 as it was possible to do, without the unseemly protrusion33 of stomach, so common among the generality of natives. Of sixty-nine who I counted round me at one time, I do not think there was one under my own height, 5 feet 10 3/4 inches, but there were several upwards34 of 6 feet. The children were also very fine, and I thought healthier and better grown than most I had seen, but I observed here, as elsewhere amongst smaller tribes, that the female children were more numerous than the males, why such should be the case, it is difficult to say. Whilst, however, I am thus praising the personal appearance of the men, I am sorry to say I observed but little improvement in the fairer sex. They were the same half-starved unhappy looking creatures whose condition I have so often pitied elsewhere.
These were a merry people and seemed highly delighted at our visit, and if one or two of them were a little forward, I laid it to the account of curiosity and a feeling of confidence in their own numbers. But a little thing checked them, nor did they venture to touch our persons, much less to put their hands into our pockets, as the natives appear to have done, in the case of another explorer. It is a liberty I never allowed any native to take, not only because I did not like it, but because I am sure it must have the effect of lowering the white man in the estimation of the savage, and diminishing those feelings of awe35 and inferiority, which are the European’s best security against ill treatment. The natives told us, that there was no water to the eastward, and that if we went there we should all die. They explained that the creek commenced on the plains, by spreading out their fingers as the old man had done, to shew that many small channels made a large one, pointing to the creek, and they said the water was all gone to the place we had come from; meaning, to the lower part of it. On asking them by signs, if the creek continued beyond the plains, they shook their heads, and again put their extended hand on the ground, pointing to the plain. They could give us no account of the ranges to which I proposed going, any more than others we had asked. On inquiring, if there was any water to the north-west a long discussion took place, and it was ultimately decided36 that there was not. I could understand, that several of them mentioned the names of places where they supposed there might be water, but it was evidently the general opinion that there was none. Neither did they appear to know of any large waters, on which the natives had canoes, in confirmation37 of the old man’s actions. On this interesting and important point they were wholly ignorant.
The smallness of the water-hole, on which these people depended, was quite a matter of surprise to me, and I hardly liked to let the horses drink at it, in consequence. At sunset all the natives left us (as is their wont38 at that hour), and went to their own encampment; nor did one approach us afterwards, but they sat up to a late hour at their own camp, the women being employed beating the seed for cakes, between two stones, and the noise they made was exactly like the working of a loom39 factory. The whole encampment, with the long line of fires, looked exceedingly pretty, and the dusky figures of the natives standing40 by them, or moving from one hut to the other, had the effect of a fine scene in a play. At 11 all was still, and you would not have known that you were in such close contiguity41 to so large an assemblage of people.
When I laid down, I revolved42 in my own mind what course I should pursue in the morning. If the account of the natives was correct, it was clear that my further progress eastward, was at an end. My horses, indeed, were now reduced to such a state, that I foresaw my labours were drawing to a close. Mack, too, was so ill, that he could hardly sit his animal, and although I did not anticipate any thing serious in his case, anything tending to embarrass was now felt by us. Mr. Stuart and Morgan held up well, but I felt myself getting daily weaker and weaker. I found that I could not rise into my saddle with the same facility, and that I lost wind in going up a bank of only a few feet in height. I determined, however, on mature consideration, to examine the plain, and to satisfy myself before I should turn back, as to the fact of the creek commencing upon it. Accordingly, in the morning, we saddled and loaded our horses, but none of the natives came to us until we had mounted; when they approached to take leave, and to persuade us not to go in the direction we proposed, but to no purpose. The pool from which they drew their supply of water, was in the centre of a broad shallow grassy43 channel, that passed the point of the sand hill we had ascended45, and ran up to the northward46 and westward47; we were, therefore, obliged to cross this channel, and soon afterwards got on the plains. They were evidently subject to flood, and were exceedingly soft and blistered48; the grass upon them grew in tufts, not close, so that in the distance, the plains appeared better grassed than they really were. At length, we got on a polygonum flat of great size, in the soil of which our horses absolutely sunk up to the shoulder at every step. I never rode over such a piece of ground in my life, but we managed to flounder through it, until at length we got on the somewhat firmer but still heavy plain. It was very clear, however, that our horses would not go a day’s journey over such ground. It looked exactly as I have described it — an immense concavity, with numerous small channels running down from every part, and making for the creek as a centre of union; nor, could we anywhere see a termination to it. Had the plain been of less extent, I might have doubted the information of the natives; but, looking at the boundless49 hollow around me, I did not feel any surprise that such a creek even as the one up which we had journeyed, should rise in it, and could easily picture to myself the rush of water there must be to the centre of the plain, when the ground has been saturated50 with moisture.
The day being far advanced, whilst we were yet pushing on, without any apparent termination to the heavy ground over which we were riding, I turned westward at 2 p.m., finding that the attainment51 of the object I had in view, in attempting to cross the plain, was a physical impossibility. We reached the water, at which the blind native visited us, a little after sunset, and were as glad as our poor animals could have been, when night closed in upon us, and our labours.
On the 5th, we passed the old man’s camp, in going down the creek, instead of crossing the plains as before, and halted at the junction52 of a creek we had passed, that came from the north, and along the banks of which I proposed turning towards the ranges. On the morning of the 6th we kept the general course of this tributary53, which ran through an undulating country of rocks and sand. Its channel was exceedingly capacious, and its banks were high and perpendicular54, but everything about it, was sand or gravel55. Its bed was perfectly56 level, and its appearance at once destroyed the hope of finding water in it.
The ground over which we rode, was, as I have stated, a mixture of gravel and rocks, and our horses yielded under us at almost every step as they trod on the sharp pointed fragments. At eight miles we reached the outer line of hills, as they had appeared to us in the distance, and entered a pass between two of them, of about a quarter of a mile in width. At this confined point there were the remains57 and ravages58 of terrific floods. The waters had reached from one side of the pass to the other, and the dead trunks of trees and heaps of rubbish, were piled up against every bush.
There was not a blade of vegetation to be seen either on the low ground or on the ranges, which were from 3 to 400 feet in height, and were nothing more than vast accumulations of sand and rocks. At a mile, we arrived at the termination of the pass, and found ourselves at the entrance of a barren, sandy valley, with ranges in front of us, similar to those we had already passed. I thought it advisable, therefore, to ascend44 a hill to my left, somewhat higher than any near it, to ascertain60, if possible, the character of the northern interior. The task of clambering to the top of it however, was, in my then reduced state, greater than I expected, and I had to wait a few minutes before I could look about me after gaining the summit. I could see nothing, after all, to cheer me in the view that presented itself. To the northward was the valley in which the creek rises, bounded all round by barren, stony61 hills, like that on which I stood; and the summits of other similar hills shewed themselves above the nearer line. To the east the apparently62 interminable plains on which we had been, still met the horizon, nor was anything to be seen beyond them. Westward the outer line of hills continued backed by others, in the outlines of which we recognised the peaks and forms of the apparently lofty chain we first saw when we discovered the creek. Thus, then, it appeared, that I had been entirely63 deceived in the character of these hills, and that it had been the effect of refraction in those burning regions, which had given to these moderate hills their mountain-like appearance.
Satisfied that my horses had not the strength to cross such a country, and that in it I had not the slightest chance of procuring64 the necessary sustenance65 for them, I turned back to Cooper’s Creek, and then deemed it prudent66 to travel quietly on towards the place at which we first struck it, and had subsequently left our surplus stores.
In riding amongst some rocky ground, we shot a new and beautiful little pigeon, with a long crest. The habits of this bird were very singular, for it never perched on the trees, but on the highest and most exposed rocks, in what must have been an intense heat; its flight was short like that of a quail67, and it ran in the same manner through the grass when feeding in the evening. We reached our destination on the evening of the 8th, and were astonished to see how much the waters had shrunk from their previous level. Such an instance of the rapid diminution68 of so large a pool, made me doubt whether I should find any water in Strzelecki’s Creek to enable me to regain69 the Depot70.
As we descended from the flats to cross over to our old berth71, we found it occupied by a party of natives, who were disposed to be rather troublesome, especially one old fellow, whose conduct annoyed me exceedingly. However, I very soon got rid of them; and after strolling for a short time within sight of us, they all went up the creek; but I could not help thinking, from the impertinent pertinacity72 of these fellows, that they had discovered my magazine, and taken all the things, more especially as they had been digging where our fire had been, so that, if I had buried the stores there as intended, they would have been taken.
As soon as the natives were out of sight, Mr. Stuart and I went to the rhagodia bush for our things. As we approached, the branches appeared just as we had left them; but on getting near, we saw a bag lying outside, and I therefore concluded that the natives had carried off everything. Still, when we came up to the bush, nothing but the bag appeared to have been touched, all the other things were just as we left them, and, on examining the bag, nothing was missing. Concluding, therefore, that the natives had really discovered my store, but had been too honest to rob us, I returned to the creek in better humour with them; but, a sudden thought occurring to Mr. Stuart, that as there was an oil lamp in the bag, a native dog might have smelt73 and dragged it out of its place, we returned to the bush, to see if there were any impressions of naked feet round about it, but with the exception of our own, there were no tracks save those of a native dog. I was consequently obliged to give Mr. Stuart credit for his surmise74, and felt somewhat mortified75 that the favourable76 impression I had received as to the honesty of the natives had thus been destroyed. They had gone up the creek on seeing that I was displeased77, and we saw nothing more of them during the afternoon; but on the following morning they came to see us, and as they behaved well, I gave them a powder canister, a little box, and some other trifles; for after all there was only one old fellow who had been unruly, and he now shewed as much impatience with his companions as he had done with us, and I therefore set his manner down to the score of petulance78.
At 10 a.m. on the 9th we prepared to move over to the branch creek, as I really required rest and quiet, and knew very well that as long as I remained where I was, we should be troubled by our sable59 friends, who, being sixteen in number, would require being well looked after. Before we finally left the neighbourhood, however, where our hopes had so often been raised and depressed79, I gave the name of Cooper’s Creek to the fine watercourse we had so anxiously traced, as a proof of my great respect for Mr. Cooper, the Judge of South Australia. I am not conversant80 in the language of praise, but thus much will I venture to say, that whether in his public or private capacity, Mr. Cooper was equally entitled to this record of my feelings towards him. I would gladly have laid this creek down as a river, but as it had no current I did not feel myself justified81 in so doing. Had it been nearer the located districts of South Australia, its discovery would have been a matter of some importance. As it is we know not what changes or speculations82 may lead the white man to its banks. Purposes of utility were amongst the first objects I had in view in my pursuit of geographical83 discovery; nor do I think that any country, however barren, can be explored without the attainment of some good end. Circumstances may yet arise to give a value to my recent labours, and my name may be remembered by after generations in Australia, as the first who tried to penetrate84 to its centre. If I failed in that great object, I have one consolation85 in the retrospect86 of my past services. My path amongst savage tribes has been a bloodless one, not but that I have often been placed in situations of risk and danger, when I might have been justified in shedding blood, but I trust I have ever made allowances for human timidity, and respected the customs and prejudices of the rudest people. I hope, indeed, that in this my last expedition, I have not done discredit87 to the good opinion Sir C. Napier, an officer I knew not, was pleased to entertain of me. Most assuredly in my intercourse88 with the savage, I have endeavoured to elevate the character of the white man. Justice and humanity have been my guides, but while I have the consolation to know that no European will follow my track into the Desert without experiencing kindness from its tenants89, I have to regret that the progress of civilized90 man into an uncivilized region, is almost invariably attended with misfortune to its original inhabitants.
I struck Cooper’s Creek in lat. 27 degrees 44 minutes, and in long. 140 degrees 22 minutes, and traced it upwards to lat. 27 degrees 56 minutes, and long. 142 degrees 0 minutes. There can be no doubt but that it would support a number of cattle upon its banks, but its agricultural capabilities91 appear to me doubtful, for the region in which it lies is subject evidently to variations of temperature and seasons that must, I should say, be inimical to cereal productions; nevertheless I should suppose its soil would yield sufficient to support any population that might settle on it.
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creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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pro
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| n.赞成，赞成的意见，赞成者 | |
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stature
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| n.（高度）水平，（高度）境界，身高，身材 | |
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intelligibly
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| adv.可理解地，明了地，清晰地 | |
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eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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hatchet
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| n.短柄小斧；v.扼杀 | |
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parley
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| n.谈判 | |
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puddle
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| n.(雨)水坑，泥潭 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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boughs
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| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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impatience
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| n.不耐烦，急躁 | |
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countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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trot
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| n.疾走，慢跑；n.老太婆；现成译本；(复数）trots:腹泻（与the 连用）；v.小跑，快步走，赶紧 | |
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conjecture
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| n./v.推测，猜测 | |
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squatted
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的过去式和过去分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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puddles
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| n.水坑， （尤指道路上的）雨水坑( puddle的名词复数 ) | |
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deafening
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| adj. 振耳欲聋的, 极喧闹的 动词deafen的现在分词形式 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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crest
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| n.顶点；饰章；羽冠；vt.达到顶点；vi.形成浪尖 | |
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agitated
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| adj.被鼓动的，不安的 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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apprehension
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| n.理解，领悟；逮捕，拘捕；忧虑 | |
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deliberately
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| adv.审慎地；蓄意地；故意地 | |
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brutes
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| 兽( brute的名词复数 )； 畜生； 残酷无情的人； 兽性 | |
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touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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countenances
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| n.面容( countenance的名词复数 )；表情；镇静；道义支持 | |
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erect
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| n./v.树立，建立，使竖立；adj.直立的，垂直的 | |
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protrusion
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| n.伸出，突出 | |
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upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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awe
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| n.敬畏，惊惧；vt.使敬畏，使惊惧 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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confirmation
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| n.证实，确认，批准 | |
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wont
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| adj.习惯于；v.习惯；n.习惯 | |
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loom
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| n.织布机，织机；v.隐现，(危险、忧虑等)迫近 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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contiguity
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| n.邻近，接壤 | |
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revolved
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| v.（使）旋转( revolve的过去式和过去分词 )；细想 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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blistered
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| adj.水疮状的，泡状的v.（使）起水泡( blister的过去式和过去分词 )；（使表皮等）涨破，爆裂 | |
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boundless
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| adj.无限的；无边无际的；巨大的 | |
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saturated
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| a.饱和的，充满的 | |
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attainment
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| n.达到，到达；［常pl.］成就，造诣 | |
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junction
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| n.连接，接合；交叉点，接合处，枢纽站 | |
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tributary
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| n.支流；纳贡国；adj.附庸的；辅助的；支流的 | |
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perpendicular
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| adj.垂直的，直立的；n.垂直线，垂直的位置 | |
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gravel
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| n.砂跞；砂砾层；结石 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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ravages
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| 劫掠后的残迹，破坏的结果，毁坏后的残迹 | |
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sable
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| n.黑貂；adj.黑色的 | |
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ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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procuring
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的现在分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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sustenance
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| n.食物，粮食；生活资料；生计 | |
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prudent
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| adj.谨慎的，有远见的，精打细算的 | |
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quail
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| n.鹌鹑；vi.畏惧，颤抖 | |
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diminution
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| n.减少；变小 | |
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regain
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| vt.重新获得，收复，恢复 | |
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depot
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| n.仓库，储藏处；公共汽车站；火车站 | |
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berth
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| n.卧铺，停泊地，锚位；v.使停泊 | |
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pertinacity
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| n.执拗，顽固 | |
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smelt
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| v.熔解，熔炼；n.银白鱼，胡瓜鱼 | |
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surmise
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| v./n.猜想，推测 | |
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mortified
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| v.使受辱( mortify的过去式和过去分词 )；伤害（人的感情）；克制；抑制（肉体、情感等） | |
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favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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displeased
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| a.不快的 | |
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petulance
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| n.发脾气，生气，易怒，暴躁，性急 | |
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depressed
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| adj.沮丧的，抑郁的，不景气的，萧条的 | |
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conversant
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| adj.亲近的，有交情的，熟悉的 | |
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justified
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| a.正当的，有理的 | |
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speculations
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| n.投机买卖( speculation的名词复数 )；思考；投机活动；推断 | |
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geographical
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| adj.地理的；地区(性)的 | |
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penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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consolation
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| n.安慰，慰问 | |
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retrospect
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| n.回顾，追溯；v.回顾，回想，追溯 | |
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discredit
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| vt.使不可置信；n.丧失信义；不信，怀疑 | |
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intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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tenants
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| n.房客( tenant的名词复数 )；佃户；占用者；占有者 | |
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civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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capabilities
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| n.能力( capability的名词复数 )；可能；容量；[复数]潜在能力 | |
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