I saw the canal at its worst, when the water was low; and I have not one syllable7 to say in its favour. Instead of thirty hours, we took three mortal days and nights to reach Cairo, and we grounded with painful regularity8 four or five times between sunrise and sunset. In the scenery on the banks sketchers and describers have left you nought9 to see. From Pompey’s Pillar to the Maison Carree, Kariom and its potteries10, Al-Birkah1 of the night birds, Bastarah with the alleys11 of trees, even unto Atfah, all things are perfectly12 familiar to us, and have been so years before the traveller actually sees them. The Nil2 al-Mubarak itself — the Blessed Nile, — as notably13 fails too at this season to arouse enthusiasm. You see nothing but muddy waters, dusty banks, a sand mist, a milky14 sky, and a glaring sun: you feel nought but a breeze like the blast from a potter’s furnace. You can only just distinguish through a veil of reeking15 vapours the village Shibr Katt from the village Kafr al-Zayyat, and you steam too far from Wardan town to enjoy the Timonic satisfaction of enraging16 its male population with “Haykal! ya ibn Haykal! O Haykal! — O son of Haykal2!” You are nearly wrecked17, as a matter of course, at the Barrage18; and you are certainly dumbfoundered by the sight of its ugly little Gothic crenelles.3 The Pyramids of Khufa and Khafra (Cheops and Cephren) “rearing their majestic19 heads above the margin20 of the Desert,” only suggest of remark that they have been remarkably21 well-sketched; and thus you proceed till with a real feeling of satisfaction you moor22 alongside of the tumble-down old suburb “Bulak.”
To me there was double dulness in the scenery: it seemed to be Sind over again — the same morning mist and noon-tide glare; the same hot wind and heat clouds, and fiery23 sunset, and evening glow; the same pillars of dust and “devils” of sand sweeping24 like giants over the plain; the same turbid25 waters of a broad, shallow stream studded with sand-banks and silt-isles, with crashing earth slips and ruins nodding over a kind of cliff, whose base the stream gnaws26 with noisy tooth. On the banks, saline ground sparkled and glittered like hoar-frost in the sun; and here and there mud villages, solitary27 huts, pigeon-towers, or watch turrets28, whence litt1e brown boys shouted and slung29 stones at the birds, peeped out from among bright green patches of palm-tree, tamarisk, and mimosa, of maize30, tobacco, and sugar-cane. Beyond the narrow tongue of land on the river banks lay the glaring, yellow Desert, with its low hills and sand slopes, bounded by innumerable pyramids of Nature’s architecture. The boats, with their sharp bows, preposterous31 sterns, and lateen sails, might have belonged to the Indus. So might the chocolate-skinned, blue-robed peasantry; the women carrying progeny32 on their hips33, with the eternal waterpot on their heads; and the men sleeping in the shade or following the plough, to which probably Osiris first put hand. The lower animals, like the higher, were the same; gaunt, mange-stained camels, muddy buffaloes34, scurvied donkeys, sneaking35 jackals, and fox-like dogs. Even the feathered creatures were perfectly familiar to my eye — paddy birds, pelicans36, giant cranes, kites and wild water-fowl.
I had taken a third-class or deck-passage, whereby the evils of the journey were exasperated37. A roasting sun pierced the canvas awning38 like hot water through a gauze veil, and by night the cold dews fell raw and thick as a Scotch39 mist. The cooking was abominable40, and the dignity of Darwaysh-hood did not allow me to sit at meat with Infidels or to eat the food which they had polluted. So the Pilgrim squatted41 apart, smoking perpetually, with occasional interruptions to say his prayers and to tell his beads42 upon the mighty43 rosary; and he drank the muddy water of the canal out of a leathern bucket, and he munched44 his bread and garlic4 with a desperate sanctimoniousness45.
The “Little Asthmatic” was densely46 crowded, and discipline not daring to mark out particular places, the scene on board of her was motley enough. There were two Indian officers, who naturally spoke47 to none but each other, drank bad tea, and smoked their cigars exclusively like Britons. A troop of the Kurd Kawwas,5 escorting treasure, was surrounded by a group of noisy Greeks; these men’s gross practical jokes sounding anything but pleasant to the solemn Moslems, whose saddle-bags and furniture were at every moment in danger of being defiled48 by abominable drinks and the ejected juices of tobacco. There was one pretty woman on board, a Spanish girl, who looked strangely misplaced — a rose in a field of thistles. Some silent Italians, with noisy interpreters, sat staidly upon the benches. It was soon found out, through the communicative dragoman, that their business was to buy horses for H. M. of Sardinia: they were exposed to a volley of questions delivered by a party of French tradesmen returning to Cairo, but they shielded themselves and fought shy with Machiavellian49 dexterity50. Besides these was a German, a “beer-bottle in the morning and a bottle of beer in the evening,” to borrow a simile51 from his own nation; a Syrian merchant, the richest and ugliest of Alexandria; and a few French house-painters going to decorate the Pasha’s palace at Shubra. These last were the happiest of our voyagers, — veritable children of Paris, Montagnards, Voltaireans, and thoroughbred Sans-Soucis. All day they sat upon deck chattering52 as only their lively nation can chatter53, indulging in ultra-gallic maxims54, such as “on ne vieillit jamais a table;” now playing ecarte for love or nothing, then composing “des ponches un peu chiques;” now reciting adventures of the category “Mirabolant,” then singing, then dancing, then sleeping, and rising to play, to drink, talk, dance, and sing again. One chaunted:
“Je n’ai pas connu mon pere
Ce respectable vieillard.
Je suis ne trois ans trop tard,” &.;
Whilst another trolled out:
“Qu’est ce que je vois?
Un canard55 en robe de chambre!”
They being new comers, free from the western morgue so soon caught by Oriental Europeans, were particularly civil to me, even wishing to mix me a strong draught56; but I was not so fortunate with all on board. A large shopkeeper threatened to “briser” my “figure” for putting my pipe near his pantaloons; but seeing me finger my dagger57 curiously58, though I did not shift my pipe, he forgot to remember his threat. I had taken charge of a parcel for one M. P— a student of Coptic, and remitted59 it to him on board; of this little service the only acknowledgment was a stare and a petulant60 inquiry61 why I had not given it to him before. And one of the Englishmen, half publicly, half privily62, as though communing with himself, condemned63 my organs of vision because I happened to touch his elbow. He was a man in my own service; I pardoned him in consideration of the compliment paid to my disguise.
Two fellow-passengers were destined64 to play an important part in my comedy of Cairo. Just after we had started, a little event afforded us some amusement. On the bank appeared a short, crummy, pursy kind of man, whose efforts to board the steamer were notably ridiculous. With attention divided between the vessel65 and a carpet-bag carried by his donkey boy, he ran along the sides of the canal, now stumbling into hollows, then climbing heights, then standing66 shouting upon the projections67 with the fierce sun upon his back, till everyone thought his breath was completely gone. But no! game to the backbone68, he would have perished miserably69 rather than lose his fare: “patience and perseverance,” say the wise, “got a wife for his Reverence70.” At last he was taken on board, and presently he lay down to sleep. His sooty complexion71, lank72 black hair, features in which appeared beaucoup de finesse73, that is to say, abundant rascality74, an eternal smile and treacherous75 eyes, his gold6 ring, dress of showy colours, fleshy stomach, fat legs, round back, and a peculiar76 manner of frowning and fawning77 simultaneously78, marked him an Indian. When he awoke he introduced himself to me as Miyan Khudabakhsh Namdar, a native of Lahore: he had carried on the trade of a shawl merchant in London and Paris, where he had lived two years, and, after a pilgrimage intended to purge79 away the sins of civilised lands, he had settled at Cairo.
My second friend, Haji Wali, I will introduce to the reader in a future chapter; and my two expeditions to Midian have brought him once more into notice.7
Long conversations in Persian and Hindustani abridged81 the tediousness of the voyage, and when we arrived at Bulak, the polite Khudabakhsh insisted upon my making his house my home. I was unwilling82 to accept the man’s civility, disliking his looks; but he advanced cogent83 reasons for changing my mind. His servant cleared my luggage through the custom-house, and a few minutes after our arrival I found myself in his abode84 near the Azbakiyah Gardens, sitting in a cool Mashrabiyah8 that gracefully85 projected over a garden, and sipping86 the favourite glass of pomegranate syrup88.
As the Wakalahs or Caravanserais were at that time full of pilgrims, I remained with Khudabakhsh ten days or a fortnight. But at the end of that time my patience was thoroughly89 exhausted90. My host had become a civilised man, who sat on chairs, who ate with a fork, who talked European politics, and who had learned to admire, if not to understand, liberty — liberal ideas! and was I not flying from such things? Besides which, we English have a peculiar national quality, which the Indians, with their characteristic acuteness, soon perceived, and described by an opprobrious91 name. Observing our solitary habits, that we could not, and would not, sit and talk and sip87 sherbet and smoke with them, they called us “Jangli” — wild men, fresh caught in the jungle and sent to rule over the land of Hind80.9 Certainly nothing suits us less than perpetual society, an utter want of solitude92, when one cannot retire into oneself an instant without being asked some puerile93 question by a companion, or look into a book without a servant peering over one’s shoulder; when from the hour you rise to the time you rest, you must ever be talking or listening, you must converse94 yourself to sleep in a public dormitory, and give ear to your companions’ snores and mutterings at midnight.10
The very essence of Oriental hospitality, however, is this family style of reception, which costs your host neither coin nor trouble. I speak of the rare tracts95 in which the old barbarous hospitality still lingers. You make one more at his eating tray, and an additional mattress96 appears in the sleeping-room. When you depart, you leave if you like a little present, merely for a memorial, with your entertainer; he would be offended if you offered it him openly as a remuneration, and you give some trifling97 sums to the servants. Thus you will be welcome wherever you go. If perchance you are detained perforce in such a situation, — which may easily happen to you, medical man, — you have only to make yourself as disagreeable as possible, by calling for all manner of impossible things. Shame is a passion with Eastern nations. Your host would blush to point out to you the indecorum of your conduct; and the laws of hospitality oblige him to supply the every want of a guest, even though he be a detenu.
But of all Orientals, the most antipathetical companion to an Englishman is, I believe, an East-Indian. Like the fox in the fable98, fulsomely99 flattering at first, he gradually becomes easily friendly, disagreeably familiar, offensively rude, which ends by rousing the “spirit of the British lion.” Nothing delights the Hindi so much as an opportunity of safely venting100 the spleen with which he regards his victors.11 He will sit in the presence of a magistrate101, or an officer, the very picture of cringing102 submissiveness. But after leaving the room, he is as different from his former self as a counsel in court from a counsel at a concert, a sea captain at a club dinner from a sea captain on his quarter-deck. Then he will discover that the English are not brave, nor clever, nor generous, nor civilised, nor anything but surpassing rogues103; that every official takes bribes104, that their manners are utterly105 offensive, and that they are rank infidels. Then he will descant106 complacently107 upon the probability of a general Bartholomew’s Day in the East, and look forward to the hour when enlightened Young India will arise and drive the “foul invader” from the land.12 Then he will submit his political opinions nakedly, that India should be wrested108 from the Company and given to the Queen, or taken from the Queen and given to the French. If the Indian has been a European traveller, so much the worse for you. He has blushed to own, — explaining, however, conquest by bribery109, — that 50,000 Englishmen hold 150,000,000 of his compatriots in thrall110, and for aught you know, republicanism may have become his idol111. He has lost all fear of the white face, and having been accustomed to unburden his mind in
“The land where, girt by friend or foe112,
A man may say the thing he will,” —
he pursues the same course in other lands where it is exceedingly misplaced. His doctrines113 of liberty and equality he applies to you personally and practically, by not rising when you enter or leave the room, — at first you could scarcely induce him to sit down, — by not offering you his pipe, by turning away when you address him; in fact, by a variety of similar small affronts114 which none knows better to manage skilfully115 and with almost impalpable gradations. If — and how he prays for it! — an opportunity of refusing you anything presents itself, he does it with an
“In rice strength,
In an Indian manliness,13”
say the Arabs. And the Persians apply the following pithy116 tale to their neighbours. “Brother,” said the leopard117 to the jackal, “I crave118 a few of thy cast-off hairs; I want them for medicine;14 where can I find them?” “Wa’llahi!” replied the jackal, “I don’t exactly know — I seldom change my coat — I wander about the hills. Allah is bounteous,15 brother! hairs are not so easily shed.”
Woe119 to the unhappy Englishman, Pasha, or private soldier, who must serve an Eastern lord! Worst of all, if the master be an Indian, who, hating all Europeans,16 adds an especial spite to Oriental coarseness, treachery, and tyranny. Even the experiment of associating with them is almost too hard to bear. But a useful deduction120 may be drawn121 from such observations; and as few have had greater experience than myself, I venture to express my opinion with confidence, however unpopular or unfashionable it may be.
I am convinced that the natives of India cannot respect a European who mixes with them familiarly, or especially who imitates their customs, manners, and dress. The tight pantaloons, the authoritative122 voice, the pococurante manner, and the broken Hindustani impose upon them — have a weight which learning and honesty, which wit and courage, have not. This is to them the master’s attitude: they bend to it like those Scythian slaves that faced the sword but fled from the horsewhip. Such would never be the case amongst a brave people, the Afghan for instance; and for the same reason it is not so, we read, with “White Plume,” the North American Indian. “The free trapper combines in the eye of an Indian (American) girl, all that is dashing and heroic in a warrior123 of her own race, whose gait and garb124 and bravery he emulates125, with all that is gallant126 and glorious in the white man.” There is but one cause for this phenomenon; the “imbelles Indi” are still, with few exceptions,17 a cowardly and slavish people, who would raise themselves by depreciating127 those superior to them in the scale of creation. The Afghans and American aborigines, being chivalrous128 races, rather exaggerate the valour of their foes129, because by so doing they exalt130 their own.
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1
embark
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| vi.乘船，着手，从事，上飞机 | |
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nil
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| n.无，全无，零 | |
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wont
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| adj.习惯于；v.习惯；n.习惯 | |
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inditing
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| v.写（文章，信等）创作，赋诗，创作( indite的现在分词 ) | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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barges
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| 驳船( barge的名词复数 ) | |
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syllable
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| n.音节；vt.分音节 | |
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regularity
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| n.规律性，规则性；匀称，整齐 | |
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nought
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| n.／adj.无，零 | |
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potteries
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| n.陶器( pottery的名词复数 )；陶器厂；陶土；陶器制造（术） | |
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alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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notably
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| adv.值得注意地，显著地，尤其地，特别地 | |
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milky
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| adj.牛奶的，多奶的；乳白色的 | |
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reeking
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| v.发出浓烈的臭气( reek的现在分词 )；散发臭气；发出难闻的气味 (of sth)；明显带有（令人不快或生疑的跡象） | |
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enraging
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| 使暴怒( enrage的现在分词 ) | |
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wrecked
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| adj.失事的，遇难的 | |
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barrage
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| n.火力网，弹幕 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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moor
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| n.荒野，沼泽；vt.(使)停泊；vi.停泊 | |
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fiery
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| adj.燃烧着的，火红的；暴躁的；激烈的 | |
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sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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turbid
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| adj.混浊的，泥水的，浓的 | |
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gnaws
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| 咬( gnaw的第三人称单数 )； （长时间） 折磨某人； （使）苦恼； （长时间）危害某事物 | |
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27
solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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28
turrets
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| （六角）转台( turret的名词复数 )； （战舰和坦克等上的）转动炮塔； （摄影机等上的）镜头转台； （旧时攻城用的）塔车 | |
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slung
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| 抛( sling的过去式和过去分词 )； 吊挂； 遣送； 押往 | |
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maize
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| n.玉米 | |
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preposterous
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| adj.荒谬的，可笑的 | |
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progeny
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| n.后代，子孙；结果 | |
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hips
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| abbr.high impact polystyrene 高冲击强度聚苯乙烯，耐冲性聚苯乙烯n.臀部( hip的名词复数 )；[建筑学]屋脊；臀围（尺寸）；臀部…的 | |
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34
buffaloes
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| n.水牛（分非洲水牛和亚洲水牛两种）( buffalo的名词复数 )；（南非或北美的）野牛；威胁；恐吓 | |
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sneaking
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| a.秘密的，不公开的 | |
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pelicans
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| n.鹈鹕( pelican的名词复数 ) | |
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exasperated
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| adj.恼怒的 | |
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awning
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| n.遮阳篷；雨篷 | |
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scotch
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| n.伤口，刻痕；苏格兰威士忌酒；v.粉碎，消灭，阻止；adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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abominable
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| adj.可厌的，令人憎恶的 | |
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squatted
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的过去式和过去分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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beads
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| n.（空心）小珠子( bead的名词复数 )；水珠；珠子项链 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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munched
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| v.用力咀嚼（某物），大嚼( munch的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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sanctimoniousness
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densely
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| ad.密集地；浓厚地 | |
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spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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defiled
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| v.玷污( defile的过去式和过去分词 )；污染；弄脏；纵列行进 | |
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machiavellian
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| adj.权谋的，狡诈的 | |
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50
dexterity
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| n.(手的)灵巧，灵活 | |
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simile
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| n.直喻，明喻 | |
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chattering
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| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
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53
chatter
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| vi.／n.喋喋不休；短促尖叫；(牙齿)打战 | |
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maxims
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| n.格言，座右铭( maxim的名词复数 ) | |
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canard
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| n.虚报；谣言；v.流传 | |
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draught
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| n.拉，牵引，拖；一网（饮，吸，阵)；顿服药量，通风；v.起草，设计 | |
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dagger
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| n.匕首，短剑，剑号 | |
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curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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remitted
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| v.免除（债务），宽恕( remit的过去式和过去分词 )；使某事缓和；寄回，传送 | |
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petulant
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| adj.性急的，暴躁的 | |
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61
inquiry
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| n.打听，询问，调查，查问 | |
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62
privily
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| adv.暗中，秘密地 | |
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condemned
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| adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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64
destined
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| adj.命中注定的；(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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65
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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67
projections
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| 预测( projection的名词复数 )； 投影； 投掷； 突起物 | |
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68
backbone
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| n.脊骨，脊柱，骨干；刚毅，骨气 | |
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69
miserably
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| adv.痛苦地；悲惨地；糟糕地；极度地 | |
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70
reverence
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| n.敬畏，尊敬，尊严；Reverence:对某些基督教神职人员的尊称；v.尊敬，敬畏，崇敬 | |
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71
complexion
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| n.肤色；情况，局面；气质，性格 | |
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72
lank
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| adj.瘦削的；稀疏的 | |
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73
finesse
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| n.精密技巧，灵巧，手腕 | |
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74
rascality
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| 流氓性，流氓集团 | |
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75
treacherous
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| adj.不可靠的，有暗藏的危险的；adj.背叛的，背信弃义的 | |
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76
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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77
fawning
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| adj.乞怜的，奉承的v.（尤指狗等）跳过来往人身上蹭以示亲热( fawn的现在分词 )；巴结；讨好 | |
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78
simultaneously
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| adv.同时发生地，同时进行地 | |
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79
purge
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| n.整肃，清除，泻药，净化；vt.净化，清除，摆脱；vi.清除，通便，腹泻，变得清洁 | |
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80
hind
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| adj.后面的，后部的 | |
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81
abridged
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| 削减的，删节的 | |
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82
unwilling
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| adj.不情愿的 | |
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83
cogent
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| adj.强有力的，有说服力的 | |
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84
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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85
gracefully
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| ad.大大方方地；优美地 | |
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86
sipping
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| v.小口喝，呷，抿( sip的现在分词 ) | |
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sip
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| v.小口地喝，抿，呷；n.一小口的量 | |
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88
syrup
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| n.糖浆，糖水 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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90
exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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opprobrious
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| adj.可耻的，辱骂的 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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puerile
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| adj.幼稚的，儿童的 | |
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converse
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| vi.谈话，谈天，闲聊；adv.相反的，相反 | |
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tracts
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| 大片土地( tract的名词复数 )； 地带； （体内的）道； （尤指宣扬宗教、伦理或政治的）短文 | |
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mattress
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| n.床垫，床褥 | |
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trifling
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| adj.微不足道的；没什么价值的 | |
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fable
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| n.寓言；童话；神话 | |
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99
fulsomely
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100
venting
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| 消除； 泄去； 排去； 通风 | |
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101
magistrate
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| n.地方行政官，地方法官，治安官 | |
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102
cringing
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| adj.谄媚，奉承 | |
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103
rogues
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| n.流氓( rogue的名词复数 )；无赖；调皮捣蛋的人；离群的野兽 | |
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104
bribes
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| n.贿赂( bribe的名词复数 )；向（某人）行贿，贿赂v.贿赂( bribe的第三人称单数 )；向（某人）行贿，贿赂 | |
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105
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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106
descant
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| v.详论，絮说；n.高音部 | |
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107
complacently
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| adv. 满足地, 自满地, 沾沾自喜地 | |
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108
wrested
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| （用力）拧( wrest的过去式和过去分词 )； 费力取得； （从…）攫取； （ 从… ） 强行取去… | |
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109
bribery
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| n.贿络行为，行贿，受贿 | |
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110
thrall
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| n.奴隶；奴隶制 | |
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111
idol
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| n.偶像，红人，宠儿 | |
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112
foe
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| n.敌人，仇敌 | |
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113
doctrines
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| n.教条( doctrine的名词复数 )；教义；学说；（政府政策的）正式声明 | |
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114
affronts
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| n.（当众）侮辱，（故意）冒犯( affront的名词复数 )v.勇敢地面对( affront的第三人称单数 )；相遇 | |
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115
skilfully
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| adv. (美skillfully)熟练地 | |
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116
pithy
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| adj.(讲话或文章)简练的 | |
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117
leopard
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| n.豹 | |
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118
crave
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| vt.渴望得到，迫切需要，恳求，请求 | |
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119
woe
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| n.悲哀，苦痛，不幸，困难；int.用来表达悲伤或惊慌 | |
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120
deduction
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| n.减除，扣除，减除额；推论，推理，演绎 | |
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121
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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122
authoritative
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| adj.有权威的，可相信的；命令式的；官方的 | |
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123
warrior
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| n.勇士，武士，斗士 | |
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124
garb
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| n.服装，装束 | |
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125
emulates
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| v.与…竞争( emulate的第三人称单数 )；努力赶上；计算机程序等仿真；模仿 | |
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126
gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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127
depreciating
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| v.贬值，跌价，减价( depreciate的现在分词 )；贬低，蔑视，轻视 | |
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128
chivalrous
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| adj.武士精神的；对女人彬彬有礼的 | |
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129
foes
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| 敌人，仇敌( foe的名词复数 ) | |
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130
exalt
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| v.赞扬，歌颂，晋升，提升 | |
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