This dirty work could not last forever; and on Saturday night we finished it, scraped all the spots from the deck and rails, and, what was of more importance to us, cleaned ourselves thoroughly16, rolled up our tarry frocks and trousers and laid them away for the next occasion, and put on our clean duck clothes, and had a good comfortable sailor’s Saturday night. The next day was pleasant, and indeed we had but one unpleasant Sunday during the whole voyage, and that was off Cape17 Horn, where we could expect nothing better. On Monday we began painting, and getting the vessel ready for port. This work, too, is done by the crew, and every sailor who has been long voyages is a little of a painter, in addition to his other accomplishments18. We painted her, both inside and out, from the truck to the water’s edge. The outside is painted by lowering stages over the side by ropes, and on those we sat, with our brushes and paint-pots by us, and our feet half the time in the water. This must be done, of course, on a smooth day, when the vessel does not roll — much. I remember very well being over the side painting in this way, one fine afternoon, our vessel going quietly along at the rate of four or five knots, and a pilot-fish, the sure precursor19 of a shark, swimming alongside of us. The captain was leaning over the rail watching him, and we went quietly on with our work. In the midst of our painting, on —
Friday, December 19th, we crossed the equator for the second time. I had the sense of incongruity20 which all have when, for the first time, they find themselves living under an entire change of seasons; as, crossing the line under a burning sun in the midst of December.
Thursday, December 25th. This day was Christmas, but it brought us no holiday. The only change was that we had a “plum duff” for dinner, and the crew quarrelled with the steward21 because he did not give us our usual allowance of molasses to eat with it. He thought the plums would be a substitute for the molasses, but we were not to be cheated out of our rights in that way.
Such are the trifles which produce quarrels on shipboard. In fact, we had been too long from port. We were getting tired of one another, and were in an irritable22 state, both forward and aft. Our fresh provisions were, of course, gone, and the captain had stopped our rice, so that we had nothing but salt beef and salt pork throughout the week, with the exception of a very small duff on Sunday. This added to the discontent; and many little things, daily and almost hourly occurring, which no one who has not himself been on a long and tedious voyage can conceive of or properly appreciate — little wars and rumors23 of wars, reports of things said in the cabin, misunderstanding of words and looks, apparent abuses — brought us into a condition in which everything seemed to go wrong. Every encroachment24 upon the time allowed for rest appeared unnecessary. Every shifting of the studding-sails was only to “haze25”1 the crew.
In the midst of this state of things, my messmate Stimson and I petitioned the captain for leave to shift our berths26 from the steerage, where we had previously28 lived, into the forecastle. This, to our delight, was granted, and we turned in to bunk29 and mess with the crew forward. We now began to feel like sailors, which we never fully15 did when we were in the steerage. While there, however useful and active you may be, you are but a mongrel — a sort of afterguard and “ship’s cousin.” You are immediately under the eye of the officers, cannot dance, sing, play, smoke, make a noise, or growl30, or take any other sailor’s pleasure; and you live with the steward, who is usually a go-between; and the crew never feel as though you were one of them. But if you live in the forecastle, you are “as independent as a wood-sawyer’s clerk” (nauticé), and are a sailor. You hear sailors’ talk, learn their ways, their peculiarities31 of feeling as well as speaking and acting32; and, moreover, pick up a great deal of curious and useful information in seamanship, ship’s customs, foreign countries, &c., from their long yarns33 and equally long disputes. No man can be a sailor, or know what sailors are, unless he has lived in the forecastle with them — turned in and out with them, and eaten from the common kid. After I had been a week there, nothing would have tempted34 me to go back to my old berth27, and never afterwards, even in the worst of weather, when in a close and leaking forecastle off Cape Horn, did I for a moment wish myself in the steerage. Another thing which you learn better in the forecastle than you can anywhere else is, to make and mend clothes, and this is indispensable to sailors. A large part of their watches below they spend at this work, and here I learned the art myself, which stood me in so good stead afterwards.
But to return to the state of the crew. Upon our coming into the forecastle, there was some difficulty about the uniting of the allowances of bread, by which we thought we were to lose a few pounds. This set us into a ferment35. The captain would not condescend36 to explain, and we went aft in a body, with John, the Swede, the oldest and best sailor of the crew, for spokesman. The recollection of the scene that followed always brings up a smile, especially the quarter-deck dignity and elocution of the captain. He was walking the weather side of the quarter-deck, and, seeing us coming aft, stopped short in his walk, and with a voice and look intended to annihilate37 us called out, “Well, what the d —— l do you want now?” Whereupon we stated our grievances38 as respectfully as we could, but he broke in upon us, saying that we were getting fat and lazy, didn’t have enough to do, and it was that which made us find fault. This provoked us, and we began to give word for word. This would never answer. He clinched39 his fist, stamped and swore, and ordered us all forward, saying, with oaths enough interspersed40 to send the words home, “Away with you! go forward every one of you! I’ll haze you! I’ll work you up! You don’t have enough to do! If you a’ n’t careful I’ll make a hell of heaven! . . . . You’ve mistaken your man! I’m Frank Thompson, all the way from ‘down east.’ I’ve been through the mill, ground and bolted, and come out a regular-built down-east johnny-cake, when it’s hot, d —— d good, but when it’s cold, d —— d sour and indigestible; — and you’ll find me so!” The latter part of this harangue41 made a strong impression, and the “down-east johnny-cake” became a byword for the rest of the voyage, and on the coast of California, after our arrival. One of his nicknames in all the ports was “The Down-east Johnny-cake.” So much for our petition for the redress42 of grievances. The matter was, however, set right, for the mate, after allowing the captain due time to cool off, explained it to him, and at night we were all called aft to hear another harangue, in which, of course, the whole blame of the misunderstanding was thrown upon us. We ventured to hint that he would not give us time to explain; but it wouldn’t do. We were driven back discomfited43. Thus the affair blew over, but the irritation44 caused by it remained; and we never had peace or a good understanding again so long as the captain and crew remained together.
We continued sailing along in the beautiful temperate45 climate of the Pacific. The Pacific well deserves its name, for except in the southern part, at Cape Horn, and in the western parts, near the China and Indian oceans, it has few storms, and is never either extremely hot or cold. Between the tropics there is a slight haziness46, like a thin gauze, drawn47 over the sun, which, without obstructing48 or obscuring the light, tempers the heat which comes down with perpendicular49 fierceness in the Atlantic and Indian tropics. We sailed well to the westward50 to have the full advantage of the northeast trades, and when we had reached the latitude51 of Point Conception, where it is usual to make the land, we were several hundred miles to the westward of it. We immediately changed our course due east, and sailed in that direction for a number of days. At length we began to heave-to after dark, for fear of making the land at night, on a coast where there are no lighthouses and but indifferent charts, and at daybreak on the morning of —
Tuesday, January 13th, 1835, we made the land at Point Conception, lat. 34° 32’ N., lon. 120° 06’ W. The port of Santa Barbara, to which we were bound, lying about fifty miles to the southward of this point, we continued sailing down the coast during the day and following night, and on the next morning,
January 14th, we came to anchor in the spacious52 bay of Santa Barbara, after a voyage of one hundred and fifty days from Boston.
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fore
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adv.在前面;adj.先前的;在前部的;n.前部 | |
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bracing
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adj.令人振奋的 | |
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vessel
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n.船舶;容器,器皿;管,导管,血管 | |
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cargo
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n.(一只船或一架飞机运载的)货物 | |
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retail
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v./n.零售;adv.以零售价格 | |
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lighter
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n.打火机,点火器;驳船;v.用驳船运送;light的比较级 | |
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taut
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adj.拉紧的,绷紧的,紧张的 | |
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rattled
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慌乱的,恼火的 | |
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standing
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n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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tar
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n.柏油,焦油;vt.涂或浇柏油/焦油于 | |
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rheumatism
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n.风湿病 | |
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vessels
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n.血管( vessel的名词复数 );船;容器;(具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的)人 | |
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shrouds
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n.裹尸布( shroud的名词复数 );寿衣;遮蔽物;覆盖物v.隐瞒( shroud的第三人称单数 );保密 | |
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tars
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焦油,沥青,柏油( tar的名词复数 ) | |
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fully
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adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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thoroughly
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adv.完全地,彻底地,十足地 | |
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cape
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n.海角,岬;披肩,短披风 | |
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accomplishments
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n.造诣;完成( accomplishment的名词复数 );技能;成绩;成就 | |
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precursor
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n.先驱者;前辈;前任;预兆;先兆 | |
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incongruity
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n.不协调,不一致 | |
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steward
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n.乘务员,服务员;看管人;膳食管理员 | |
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irritable
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adj.急躁的;过敏的;易怒的 | |
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rumors
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n.传闻( rumor的名词复数 );[古]名誉;咕哝;[古]喧嚷v.传闻( rumor的第三人称单数 );[古]名誉;咕哝;[古]喧嚷 | |
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encroachment
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n.侵入,蚕食 | |
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haze
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n.霾,烟雾;懵懂,迷糊;vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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berths
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n.(船、列车等的)卧铺( berth的名词复数 );(船舶的)停泊位或锚位;差事;船台vt.v.停泊( berth的第三人称单数 );占铺位 | |
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berth
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n.卧铺,停泊地,锚位;v.使停泊 | |
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previously
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adv.以前,先前(地) | |
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bunk
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n.(车、船等倚壁而设的)铺位;废话 | |
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30
growl
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v.(狗等)嗥叫,(炮等)轰鸣;n.嗥叫,轰鸣 | |
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peculiarities
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n. 特质, 特性, 怪癖, 古怪 | |
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acting
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n.演戏,行为,假装;adj.代理的,临时的,演出用的 | |
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yarns
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n.纱( yarn的名词复数 );纱线;奇闻漫谈;旅行轶事 | |
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tempted
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v.怂恿(某人)干不正当的事;冒…的险(tempt的过去分词) | |
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ferment
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vt.使发酵;n./vt.(使)激动,(使)动乱 | |
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condescend
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v.俯就,屈尊;堕落,丢丑 | |
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annihilate
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v.使无效;毁灭;取消 | |
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grievances
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n.委屈( grievance的名词复数 );苦衷;不满;牢骚 | |
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clinched
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v.(尤指两人)互相紧紧抱[扭]住( clinch的过去式和过去分词 );解决(争端、交易),达成(协议) | |
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40
interspersed
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adj.[医]散开的;点缀的v.intersperse的过去式和过去分词 | |
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41
harangue
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n.慷慨冗长的训话,言辞激烈的讲话 | |
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42
redress
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n.赔偿,救济,矫正;v.纠正,匡正,革除 | |
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discomfited
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v.使为难( discomfit的过去式和过去分词);使狼狈;使挫折;挫败 | |
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44
irritation
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n.激怒,恼怒,生气 | |
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45
temperate
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adj.温和的,温带的,自我克制的,不过分的 | |
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46
haziness
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有薄雾,模糊; 朦胧之性质或状态; 零能见度 | |
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47
drawn
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v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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48
obstructing
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阻塞( obstruct的现在分词 ); 堵塞; 阻碍; 阻止 | |
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49
perpendicular
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adj.垂直的,直立的;n.垂直线,垂直的位置 | |
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50
westward
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n.西方,西部;adj.西方的,向西的;adv.向西 | |
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51
latitude
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n.纬度,行动或言论的自由(范围),(pl.)地区 | |
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52
spacious
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adj.广阔的,宽敞的 | |
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