Sir, — I have the honour to report further explorations of the course of the river Vaea, with accompanying sketch1 plan. The party under my command consisted of one horse, and was extremely insubordinate and mutinous2, owing to not being used to go into the bush, and being half-broken anyway — and that the wrong half. The route indicated for my party was up the bed of the so-called river Vaea, which I accordingly followed to a distance of perhaps two or three furlongs eastward3 from the house of Vailima, where the stream being quite dry, the bush thick, and the ground very difficult, I decided4 to leave the main body of the force under my command tied to a tree, and push on myself with the point of the advance guard, consisting of one man. The valley had become very narrow and airless; foliage5 close shut above; dry bed of the stream much excavated6, so that I passed under fallen trees without stooping. Suddenly it turned sharply to the north, at right angles to its former direction; I heard living water, and came in view of a tall face of rock and the stream spraying down it; it might have been climbed, but it would have been dangerous, and I had to make my way up the steep earth banks, where there is nowhere any footing for man, only fallen trees, which made the rounds of my ladder. I was near the top of this climb, which was very hot and steep, and the pulses were buzzing all over my body, when I made sure there was one external sound in my ears, and paused to listen. No mistake; a sound of a mill-wheel thundering, I thought, close by, yet below me, a huge mill-wheel, yet not going steadily7, but with a Schottische movement, and at each fresh impetus8 shaking the mountain. There, where I was, I just put down the sound to the mystery of the bush; where no sound now surprises me — and any sound alarms; I only thought it would give Jack9 a fine fright, down where he stood tied to a tree by himself, and he was badly enough scared when I left him. The good folks at home identified it; it was a sharp earthquake.
At the top of the climb I made my way again to the water-course; it is here running steady and pretty full; strange these intermittencies — and just a little below the main stream is quite dry, and all the original brook10 has gone down some lava11 gallery of the mountain — and just a little further below, it begins picking up from the left hand in little boggy12 tributaries13, and in the inside of a hundred yards has grown a brook again. The general course of the brook was, I guess, S.E.; the valley still very deep and whelmed in wood. It seemed a swindle to have made so sheer a climb and still find yourself at the bottom of a well. But gradually the thing seemed to shallow, the trees to seem poorer and smaller; I could see more and more of the silver sprinkles of sky among the foliage, instead of the sombre piling up of tree behind tree. And here I had two scares — first, away up on my right hand I heard a bull low; I think it was a bull from the quality of the low, which was singularly songful and beautiful; the bulls belong to me, but how did I know that the bull was aware of that? and my advance guard not being at all properly armed, we advanced with great precaution until I was satisfied that I was passing eastward of the enemy. It was during this period that a pool of the river suddenly boiled up in my face in a little fountain. It was in a very dreary14, marshy15 part among dilapidated trees that you see through holes in the trunks of; and if any kind of beast or elf or devil had come out of that sudden silver ebullition, I declare I do not think I should have been surprised. It was perhaps a thing as curious — a fish, with which these head waters of the stream are alive. They are some of them as long as my finger, should be easily caught in these shallows, and some day I’ll have a dish of them.
Very soon after I came to where the stream collects in another banana swamp, with the bananas bearing well. Beyond, the course is again quite dry; it mounts with a sharp turn a very steep face of the mountain, and then stops abruptly16 at the lip of a plateau, I suppose the top of Vaea mountain: plainly no more springs here — there was no smallest furrow17 of a watercourse beyond — and my task might be said to be accomplished18. But such is the animated19 spirit in the service that the whole advance guard expressed a sentiment of disappointment that an exploration, so far successfully conducted, should come to a stop in the most promising21 view of fresh successes. And though unprovided either with compass or cutlass, it was determined22 to push some way along the plateau, marking our direction by the laborious23 process of bending down, sitting upon, and thus breaking the wild cocoanut trees. This was the less regretted by all from a delightful24 discovery made of a huge banyan25 growing here in the bush, with flying-buttressed flying buttresses26, and huge arcs of trunk hanging high overhead and trailing down new complications of root. I climbed some way up what seemed the original beginning; it was easier to climb than a ship’s rigging, even rattled27; everywhere there was foot-hold and hand-hold. It was judged wise to return and rally the main body, who had now been left alone for perhaps forty minutes in the bush.
The return was effected in good order, but unhappily I only arrived (like so many other explorers) to find my main body or rear-guard in a condition of mutiny; the work, it is to be supposed, of terror. It is right I should tell you the Vaea has a bad name, an Aitu Fafine — female devil of the woods — succubus — haunting it, and doubtless Jack had heard of her; perhaps, during my absence, saw her; lucky Jack! Anyway, he was neither to hold nor to bind28, and finally, after nearly smashing me by accident, and from mere29 scare and insubordination several times, deliberately30 set in to kill me; but poor Jack! the tree he selected for that purpose was a banana! I jumped off and gave him the heavy end of my whip over the buttocks! Then I took and talked in his ear in various voices; you should have heard my alto — it was a dreadful, devilish note — I knew Jack knew it was an Aitu. Then I mounted him again, and he carried me fairly steadily. He’ll learn yet. He has to learn to trust absolutely to his rider; till he does, the risk is always great in thick bush, where a fellow must try different passages, and put back and forward, and pick his way by hair’s-breadths.
The expedition returned to Vailima in time to receive the visit of the R. C. Bishop31. He is a superior man, much above the average of priests.
Thursday.
Yesterday the same expedition set forth32 to the southward by what is known as Carruthers’ Road. At a fallen tree which completely blocks the way, the main body was as before left behind, and the advance guard of one now proceeded with the exploration. At the great tree known as Mepi Tree, after Maben the surveyor, the expedition struck forty yards due west till it struck the top of a steep bank which it descended33. The whole bottom of the ravine is filled with sharp lava blocks quite unrolled and very difficult and dangerous to walk among; no water in the course, scarce any sign of water. And yet surely water must have made this bold cutting in the plateau. And if so, why is the lava sharp? My science gave out; but I could not but think it ominous34 and volcanic35. The course of the stream was tortuous36, but with a resultant direction a little by west of north; the sides the whole way exceeding steep, the expedition buried under fathoms37 of foliage. Presently water appeared in the bottom, a good quantity; perhaps thirty or forty cubic feet, with pools and waterfalls. A tree that stands all along the banks here must be very fond of water; its roots lie close-packed down the stream, like hanks of guts38, so as to make often a corrugated39 walk, each root ending in a blunt tuft of filaments40, plainly to drink water. Twice there came in small tributaries from the left or western side — the whole plateau having a smartish inclination41 to the east; one of the tributaries in a handsome little web of silver hanging in the forest. Twice I was startled by birds; one that barked like a dog; another that whistled loud ploughman’s signals, so that I vow42 I was thrilled, and thought I had fallen among runaway43 blacks, and regretted my cutlass which I had lost and left behind while taking bearings. A good many fishes in the brook, and many cray-fish; one of the last with a queer glow-worm head. Like all our brooks44, the water is pure as air, and runs over red stones like rubies45. The foliage along both banks very thick and high, the place close, the walking exceedingly laborious. By the time the expedition reached the fork, it was felt exceedingly questionable46 whether the moral of the force were sufficiently47 good to undertake more extended operations. A halt was called, the men refreshed with water and a bath, and it was decided at a drumhead council of war to continue the descent of the Embassy Water straight for Vailima, whither the expedition returned, in rather poor condition, and wet to the waist, about 4. P.M.
Thus in two days the two main watercourses of this country have been pretty thoroughly48 explored, and I conceive my instructions fully20 carried out. The main body of the second expedition was brought back by another officer despatched for that purpose from Vailima. Casualties: one horse wounded; one man bruised49; no deaths — as yet, but the bruised man feels today as if his case was mighty50 serious.
Dec. 25, ‘91.
Your note with a very despicable bulletin of health arrived only yesterday, the mail being a day behind. It contained also the excellent Times article, which was a sight for sore eyes. I am still taboo51; the blessed Germans will have none of me; and I only hope they may enjoy the Times article. ’Tis my revenge! I wish you had sent the letter too, as I have no copy, and do not even know what I wrote the last day, with a bad headache, and the mail going out. However, it must have been about right, for the Times article was in the spirit I wished to arouse. I hope we can get rid of the man before it is too late. He has set the natives to war; but the natives, by God’s blessing52, do not want to fight, and I think it will fizzle out — no thanks to the man who tried to start it. But I did not mean to drift into these politics; rather to tell you what I have done since I last wrote.
Well, I worked away at my History for a while, and only got one chapter done; no doubt this spate53 of work is pretty low now, and will be soon dry; but, God bless you, what a lot I have accomplished; Wrecker done, Beach of Falesa done, half the history: c’est etonnant. (I hear from Burlingame, by the way, that he likes the end of the Wrecker; ’tis certainly a violent, dark yarn54 with interesting, plain turns of human nature), then Lloyd and I went down to live in Haggard’s rooms, where Fanny presently joined us. Haggard’s rooms are in a strange old building — old for Samoa, and has the effect of the antique like some strange monastery55; I would tell you more of it, but I think I’m going to use it in a tale. The annexe close by had its door sealed; poor Dowdney lost at sea in a schooner56. The place is haunted. The vast empty sheds, the empty store, the airless, hot, long, low rooms, the claps of wind that set everything flying — a strange uncanny house to spend Christmas in.
Jan. 1st, ‘92.
For a day or two I have sat close and wrought57 hard at the history, and two more chapters are all but done. About thirty pages should go by this mail, which is not what should be, but all I could overtake. Will any one ever read it? I fancy not; people don’t read history for reading, but for education and display — and who desires education in the history of Samoa, with no population, no past, no future, or the exploits of Mataafa, Malietoa, and Consul58 Knappe? Colkitto and Galasp are a trifle to it. Well, it can’t be helped, and it must be done, and, better or worse, it’s capital fun. There are two to whom I have not been kind — German Consul Becker and English Captain Hand, R.N.
On Dec. 30th I rode down with Belle59 to go to (if you please) the Fancy Ball. When I got to the beach, I found the barometer60 was below 29 degrees, the wind still in the east and steady, but a huge offensive continent of clouds and vapours forming to leeward61. It might be a hurricane; I dared not risk getting caught away from my work, and, leaving Belle, returned at once to Vailima. Next day — yesterday — it was a tearer; we had storm shutters62 up; I sat in my room and wrote by lamplight — ten pages, if you please, seven of them draft, and some of these compiled from as many as seven different and conflicting authorities, so that was a brave day’s work. About two a huge tree fell within sixty paces of our house; a little after, a second went; and we sent out boys with axes and cut down a third, which was too near the house, and buckling63 like a fishing rod. At dinner we had the front door closed and shuttered, the back door open, the lamp lit. The boys in the cook-house were all out at the cook-house door, where we could see them looking in and smiling. Lauilo and Faauma waited on us with smiles. The excitement was delightful. Some very violent squalls came as we sat there, and every one rejoiced; it was impossible to help it; a soul of putty had to sing. All night it blew; the roof was continually sounding under missiles; in the morning the verandahs were half full of branches torn from the forest. There was a last very wild squall about six; the rain, like a thick white smoke, flying past the house in volleys, and as swift, it seemed, as rifle balls; all with a strange, strident hiss64, such as I have only heard before at sea, and, indeed, thought to be a marine65 phenomenon. Since then the wind has been falling with a few squalls, mostly rain. But our road is impassable for horses; we hear a schooner has been wrecked66 and some native houses blown down in Apia, where Belle is still and must remain a prisoner. Lucky I returned while I could! But the great good is this; much bread-fruit and bananas have been destroyed; if this be general through the islands, famine will be imminent67; and Whoever Blows the Coals, There can be no war. Do I then prefer a famine to a war? you ask. Not always, but just now. I am sure the natives do not want a war; I am sure a war would benefit no one but the white officials, and I believe we can easily meet the famine — or at least that it can be met. That would give our officials a legitimate68 opportunity to cover their past errors.
Jan. 2nd.
I woke this morning to find the blow quite ended. The heaven was all a mottled gray; even the east quite colourless; the downward slope of the island veiled in wafts69 of vapour, blue like smoke; not a leaf stirred on the tallest tree; only, three miles away below me on the barrier reef, I could see the individual breakers curl and fall, and hear their conjunct roaring rise, as it still rises at 1 P.M., like the roar of a thoroughfare close by. I did a good morning’s work, correcting and clarifying my draft, and have now finished for press eight chapters, ninety-one pages, of this piece of journalism70. Four more chapters, say fifty pages, remain to be done; I should gain my wager71 and finish this volume in three months, that is to say, the end should leave me per February mail; I cannot receive it back till the mail of April. Yes, it can be out in time; pray God that it be in time to help.
How do journalists fetch up their drivel? I aim only at clearness and the most obvious finish, positively72 at no higher degree of merit, not even at brevity — I am sure it could have been all done, with double the time, in two-thirds of the space. And yet it has taken me two months to write 45,500 words; and, be damned to my wicked prowess, I am proud of the exploit! The real journalist must be a man not of brass73 only, but bronze. Chapter IX. gapes74 for me, but I shrink on the margin75, and go on chattering76 to you. This last part will be much less offensive (strange to say) to the Germans. It is Becker they will never forgive me for; Knappe I pity and do not dislike; Becker I scorn and abominate77. Here is the tableau78. I. Elements of Discord79: Native. II. Elements of Discord: Foreign. III. The Sorrows of Laupepa. IV. Brandeis. V. The Battle of Matautu. VI. Last Exploits of Becker. VII. The Samoan Camps. VIII. Affairs of Lautii and Fangalii. IX. ‘furor consularis.’ X. The Hurricane. XI. Stuebel Recluse80. XII. The Present Government. I estimate the whole roughly at 70,000 words. Should anybody ever dream of reading it, it would be found amusing. 70000/300=233 printed pages; a respectable little five-bob volume, to bloom unread in shop windows. After that, I’ll have a spank81 at fiction. And rest? I shall rest in the grave, or when I come to Italy. If only the public will continue to support me! I lost my chance not dying; there seems blooming little fear of it now. I worked close on five hours this morning; the day before, close on nine; and unless I finish myself off with this letter, I’ll have another hour and a half, or Aiblins Twa, before dinner. Poor man, how you must envy me, as you hear of these orgies of work, and you scarce able for a letter. But Lord, Colvin, how lucky the situations are not reversed, for I have no situation, nor am fit for any. Life is a steigh brae. Here, have at Knappe, and no more clavers!
3RD.
There was never any man had so many irons in the fire, except Jim Pinkerton. I forgot to mention I have the most gallant82 suggestion from Lang, with an offer of Ms. authorities, which turns my brain. It’s all about the throne of Poland and buried treasure in the Mackay country, and Alan Breck can figure there in glory.
Yesterday, J. and I set off to Blacklock’s (American Consul) who lives not far from that little village I have so often mentioned as lying between us and Apia. I had some questions to ask him for my History; thence we must proceed to Vailele, where I had also to cross-examine the plantation83 manager about the battle there. We went by a track I had never before followed down the hill to Vaisigano, which flows here in a deep valley, and was unusually full, so that the horses trembled in the ford84. The whole bottom of the valley is full of various streams posting between strips of forest with a brave sound of waters. In one place we had a glimpse of a fall some way higher up, and then sparkling in sunlight in the midst of the green valley. Then up by a winding85 path scarce accessible to a horse for steepness, to the other side, and the open cocoanut glades86 of the plantation. Here we rode fast, did a mighty satisfactory afternoon’s work at the plantation house, and still faster back. On the return Jack fell with me, but got up again; when I felt him recovering I gave him his head, and he shoved his foot through the rein87; I got him by the bit however, and all was well; he had mud over all his face, but his knees were not broken. We were scarce home when the rain began again; that was luck. It is pouring now in torrents88; we are in the height of the bad season. Lloyd leaves along with this letter on a change to San Francisco; he had much need of it, but I think this will brace89 him up. I am, as you see, a tower of strength. I can remember riding not so far and not near so fast when I first came to Samoa, and being shattered next day with fatigue90; now I could not tell I have done anything; have re-handled my battle of Fangalii according to yesterday’s information — four pages rewritten; and written already some half-dozen pages of letters.
I observe with disgust that while of yore, when I own I was guilty, you never spared me abuse, but now, when I am so virtuous91, where is the praise? Do admit that I have become an excellent letter-writer — at least to you, and that your ingratitude92 is imbecile. — Yours ever,
R. L. S.
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1
sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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mutinous
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| adj.叛变的，反抗的；adv.反抗地，叛变地；n.反抗，叛变 | |
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eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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excavated
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| v.挖掘( excavate的过去式和过去分词 )；开凿；挖出；发掘 | |
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steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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impetus
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| n.推动，促进，刺激；推动力 | |
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jack
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| n.插座，千斤顶，男人；v.抬起，提醒，扛举；n.（Jake）杰克 | |
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brook
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| n.小河，溪；v.忍受，容让 | |
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lava
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| n.熔岩，火山岩 | |
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boggy
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| adj.沼泽多的 | |
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tributaries
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| n. 支流 | |
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dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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marshy
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| adj.沼泽的 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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furrow
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| n.沟；垄沟；轨迹；车辙；皱纹 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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promising
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| adj.有希望的，有前途的 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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laborious
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| adj.吃力的，努力的，不流畅 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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banyan
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| n.菩提树，榕树 | |
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buttresses
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| n.扶壁，扶垛( buttress的名词复数 )v.用扶壁支撑，加固( buttress的第三人称单数 ) | |
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rattled
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| 慌乱的，恼火的 | |
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bind
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| vt.捆，包扎；装订；约束；使凝固；vi.变硬 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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deliberately
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| adv.审慎地；蓄意地；故意地 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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ominous
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| adj.不祥的，不吉的，预兆的，预示的 | |
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volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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tortuous
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| adj.弯弯曲曲的，蜿蜒的 | |
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fathoms
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| 英寻( fathom的名词复数 ) | |
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guts
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| v.狼吞虎咽，贪婪地吃，飞碟游戏（比赛双方每组5人，相距15码，互相掷接飞碟）；毁坏（建筑物等）的内部( gut的第三人称单数 )；取出…的内脏n.勇气( gut的名词复数 )；内脏；消化道的下段；肠 | |
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corrugated
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| adj.波纹的；缩成皱纹的；波纹面的；波纹状的v.（使某物）起皱褶(corrugate的过去式和过去分词) | |
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filaments
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| n.（电灯泡的）灯丝( filament的名词复数 )；丝极；细丝；丝状物 | |
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inclination
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| n.倾斜；点头；弯腰；斜坡；倾度；倾向；爱好 | |
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vow
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| n.誓(言)，誓约；v.起誓，立誓 | |
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runaway
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| n.逃走的人，逃亡，亡命者；adj.逃亡的，逃走的 | |
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brooks
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| n.小溪( brook的名词复数 ) | |
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rubies
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| 红宝石( ruby的名词复数 )； 红宝石色，深红色 | |
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questionable
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| adj.可疑的，有问题的 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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bruised
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| [医]青肿的，瘀紫的 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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51
taboo
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| n.禁忌，禁止接近，禁止使用；adj.禁忌的；v.禁忌，禁制，禁止 | |
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52
blessing
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| n.祈神赐福；祷告；祝福，祝愿 | |
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spate
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| n.泛滥，洪水，突然的一阵 | |
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yarn
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| n.纱，纱线，纺线；奇闻漫谈，旅行轶事 | |
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monastery
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| n.修道院，僧院，寺院 | |
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schooner
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| n.纵帆船 | |
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wrought
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| v.引起；以…原料制作；运转；adj.制造的 | |
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consul
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| n.领事；执政官 | |
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belle
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| n.靓女 | |
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barometer
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| n.气压表，睛雨表，反应指标 | |
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leeward
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| adj.背风的；下风的 | |
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shutters
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| 百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 )； （照相机的）快门 | |
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buckling
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| 扣住 | |
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hiss
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| v.发出嘶嘶声；发嘘声表示不满 | |
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marine
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| adj.海的；海生的；航海的；海事的；n.水兵 | |
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wrecked
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| adj.失事的，遇难的 | |
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imminent
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| adj.即将发生的，临近的，逼近的 | |
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legitimate
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| adj.合法的，合理的，合乎逻辑的；v.使合法 | |
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wafts
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| n.空中飘来的气味，一阵气味( waft的名词复数 )；摇转风扇v.吹送，飘送，（使）浮动( waft的第三人称单数 ) | |
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journalism
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| n.新闻工作，报业 | |
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wager
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| n.赌注；vt.押注，打赌 | |
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positively
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| adv.明确地，断然，坚决地；实在，确实 | |
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brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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gapes
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| v.目瞪口呆地凝视( gape的第三人称单数 )；张开，张大 | |
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margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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chattering
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| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
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abominate
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| v.憎恨，厌恶 | |
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tableau
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| n.画面，活人画（舞台上活人扮的静态画面） | |
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discord
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| n.不和，意见不合，争论，（音乐）不和谐 | |
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recluse
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| n.隐居者 | |
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spank
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| v.打，拍打(在屁股上) | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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plantation
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| n.种植园，大农场 | |
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84
Ford
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| n.浅滩，水浅可涉处；v.涉水，涉过 | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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glades
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| n.林中空地( glade的名词复数 ) | |
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rein
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| n.疆绳，统治，支配；vt.以僵绳控制，统治 | |
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torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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brace
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| n. 支柱,曲柄,大括号; v. 绷紧,顶住,(为困难或坏事)做准备 | |
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fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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virtuous
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| adj.有品德的，善良的，贞洁的，有效力的 | |
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ingratitude
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| n.忘恩负义 | |
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