The town lies upon the open sea and has no harbor. It is only in favorable weather that vessels5 can anchor within a mile or so from shore, and the Mediterranean6 steamboats often pass the port without being able to land either freight or passengers, In the usual condition of the sea the big fish would have found it difficult to discharge Jonah without stranding7 itself, and it seems that it waited three days for the favorable moment. The best chance for landing nowadays is in the early morning, in that calm period when the winds and the waves alike await the movements of the sun. It was at that hour, on the 5th of April, 1875, that we arrived from Port Said on the French steamboat Erymanthe. The night had been pleasant and the sea tolerably smooth, but not to the apprehensions8 of some of the passengers, who always declare that they prefer, now, a real tempest to a deceitful groundswell. On a recent trip a party had been prevented from landing, owing to the deliberation of the ladies in making their toilet; by the time they had attired10 themselves in a proper manner to appear in Southern Palestine, the golden hour had slipped away, and they were able only to look upon the land which their beauty and clothes would have adorned11. None of us were caught in a like delinquency. At the moment the anchor went down we were bargaining with a villain12 to take us ashore, a bargain in which the yeasty and waxingly uneasy sea gave the boatman all the advantage.
Our little company of four is guided by the philosopher and dragoman Mohammed Abd-el-Atti, of Cairo, who has served us during the long voyage of the Nile. He is assisted in his task by the Abyssinian boy Ahman Abdallah, the brightest and most faithful of servants. In making his first appearance in the Holy Land he has donned over his gay Oriental costume a blue Frank coat, and set his fez back upon his head at an angle exceeding the slope of his forehead. His black face has an unusual lustre13, and his eyes dance with more than their ordinary merriment as he points excitedly to the shore and cries, "Y鈌a! Mist'r Dunham."
The information is addressed to Madame, whom Ahman, utterly14 regardless of sex, invariably addresses by the name of one of our travelling companions on the Nile.
"Yes, marm; you see him, Y鈌a," interposed Abd-el-Atti; coming forward with the air of brushing aside, as impertinent, the geographical15 information of his subordinate; "not much, I tink, but him bery old. Let us to go ashore."
Jaffa, or Y鈌a, or Joppa, must have been a well-established city, since it had maritime16 dealings with Tarshish, in that remote period in which the quaint17 story of Jonah is set,—a piece of Hebrew literature that bears internal evidence of great antiquity18 in its extreme naivete. Although the Canaanites did not come into Palestine till about 2400 b. c., that is to say, about the time of the twelfth dynasty in Egypt, yet there is a reasonable tradition that Jaffa existed before the deluge19. For ages it has been the chief Mediterranean port of great Jerusalem. Here Solomon landed his Lebanon timber for the temple. The town swarmed21 more than once with the Roman legions on their way to crush a Jewish insurrection. It displayed the banner of the Saracen host a few years after the Hegira22. And, later, when the Crusaders erected23 the standard of the cross on its walls, it was the d閜魌 of supplies which Venice and Genoa and other rich cities contributed to the holy war. Great kingdoms and conquerors24 have possessed25 it in turn, and for thousands of years merchants have trusted their fortunes to its perilous27 roadstead. And yet no one has ever thought it worth while to give it a harbor by the construction of a mole28, or a pier29 like that at Port Said. I should say that the first requisite30 in the industrial, to say nothing of the moral, regeneration of Palestine is a harbor at Jaffa.
The city is a cluster of irregular, flat-roofed houses, and looks from the sea like a brown bowl turned bottom up; the roofs are terraces on which the inhabitants can sleep on summer nights, and to which they can ascend31, out of the narrow, evil-smelling streets, to get a whiff of sweet odor from the orange gardens which surround the town. The ordinary pictures of Jaffa do it ample justice. The chief feature in the view is the hundreds of clumsy feluccas tossing about in the aggravating32 waves, diving endwise and dipping sidewise, guided a little by the long sweeps of the sailors, but apparently33 the sport of the most uncertain billows. A swarm20 of them, four or five deep, surrounds our vessel4; they are rising and falling in the most sickly motion, and dashing into each other in the frantic34 efforts of their rowers to get near the gangway ladder. One minute the boat nearest the stairs rises as if it would mount into the ship, and the next it sinks below the steps into a frightful35 gulf36. The passengers watch the passing opportunity to jump on board, as people dive into the "lift" of a hotel. Freight is discharged into lighters38 that are equally frisky39; and it is taken on and off splashed with salt water and liable to a thousand accidents in the violence of the transit40.
Before the town stretches a line of rocks worn for ages, upon which the surf is breaking and sending white jets into the air. It is through a narrow opening in this that our boat is borne on the back of a great wave, and we come into a strip of calmer water and approach the single landing-stairs. These stairs are not so convenient as those of the vessel we have just left, and two persons can scarcely pass on them. But this is the only sea entrance to Jaffa; if the Jews attempt to return and enter their ancient kingdom this way, it will take them a long time to get in. A sea-wall fronts the town, fortified41 by a couple of rusty42 cannon43 at one end, and the passage is through the one gate at the head of these stairs.
It seems forever that we are kept waiting at the foot of this shaky stairway. Two opposing currents are struggling to get up and down it: excited travellers, porters with trunks and knapsacks, and dragomans who appear to be pushing their way through simply to show their familiarity with the country. It is a dangerous ascent44 for a delicate woman. Somehow, as we wait at this gate where so many men of note have waited, and look upon this sea-wall upon which have stood so many of the mighty45 from Solomon to Origen, from Tiglath-Pileser to Richard Cour de Lion, the historical figure which most pervades46 Jaffa is that of the whimsical Jonah, whose connection with it was the slightest. There is no evidence that he ever returned here. Josephus, who takes liberties with the Hebrew Scriptures47, says that a whale carried the fugitive48 into the Euxine Sea, and there discharged him much nearer to Nineveh than he would have been if he had kept with the conveyance49 in which he first took passage and landed at Tarsus. Probably no one in Jaffa noticed the little man as he slipped through this gate and took ship, and yet his simple embarkation50 from the town has given it more notoriety than any other event. Thanks to an enduring piece of literature, the unheroic Jonah and his whale are better known than St. Jerome and his lion; they are the earliest associates and Oriental acquaintances of all well-brought-up children in Christendom. For myself, I confess that the strictness of many a New England Sunday has been relieved by the perusal51 of his unique adventure. He in a manner anticipated the use of the monitors and other cigar-shaped submerged sea-vessels.
When we have struggled up the slippery stairs and come through the gate, we wind about for some time in a narrow passage on the side of the sea, and then cross through the city, still on foot. It is a rubbishy place; the streets are steep and crooked53; we pass through archways, we ascend steps, we make unexpected turns; the shops are a little like bazaars54, but rather Italian than Oriental; we pass a pillared mosque55 and a Moslem56 fountain; we come upon an ancient square, in the centre of which is a round fountain with pillars and a canopy57 of stone, and close about it are the bazaars of merchants. This old fountain is profusely58 sculptured with Arabic inscriptions59; the stones are worn and have taken the rich tint60 of age, and the sunlight blends it into harmony with the gay stuffs of the shops and the dark skins of the idlers on the pavement. We come into the great market of fruit and vegetables, where vast heaps of oranges, like apples in a New England orchard61, line the way and fill the atmosphere with a golden tinge62.
The Jaffa oranges are famous in the Orient; they grow to the size of ostrich63 eggs, they have a skin as thick as the hide of a rhinoceros64, and, in their season, the pulp65 is sweet, juicy, and tender. It is a little late now, and we open one golden globe after another before we find one that is not dry and tasteless as a piece of punk. But one cannot resist buying such magnificent fruit.
Outside the walls, through broad dusty highways, by lanes of cactus66 hedges and in sight again of the sea breaking on a rocky shore, we come to the Hotel of the Twelve Tribes, occupied now principally by Cook's tribes, most of whom appear to be lost. In the adjacent lot are pitched the tents of Syrian travellers, and one of Cook's expeditions is in all the bustle67 of speedy departure. The bony, nervous Syrian horses are assigned by lot to the pilgrims, who are excellent people from England and America, and most of them as unaccustomed to the back of a horse as to that of an ostrich. It is touching68 to see some of the pilgrims walk around the animals which have fallen to them, wondering how they are to get on, which side they are to mount, and how they are to stay on. Some have already mounted, and are walking the steeds carefully round the enclosure or timidly essaying a trot69. Nearly every one concludes, after a trial, that he would like to change,—something not quite so much up and down, you know, an easier saddle, a horse that more unites gentleness with spirit. Some of the dragomans are equipped in a manner to impress travellers with the perils70 of the country. One, whom I remember on the Nile as a mild though showy person, has bloomed here into a Bedawee: he is fierce in aspect, an arsenal71 of weapons, and gallops72 furiously about upon a horse loaded down with accoutrements. This, however, is only the beginning of our real danger.
After breakfast we sallied out to see the sights: besides the house of Simon the tanner, they are not many. The house of Simon is, as it was in the time of St. Peter, by the seaside. We went upon the roof (and it is more roof than anything else) where the apostle lay down to sleep and saw the vision, and looked around upon the other roofs and upon the wide sweep of the tumbling sea. In the court is a well, the stone curb74 of which is deeply worn in several places by the rope, showing long use. The water is brackish75; Simon may have tanned with it. The house has not probably been destroyed and rebuilt more than four or five times since St. Peter dwelt here; the Romans once built the entire city. The chief room is now a mosque. We inquired for the house of Dorcas, but that is not shown, although I understood that we could see her grave outside the city. It is a great oversight76 not to show the house of Dorcas, and one that I cannot believe will long annoy pilgrims in these days of multiplied discoveries of sacred sites.
Whether this is the actual spot where the house of Simon stood, I do not know, nor does it much matter. Here, or hereabouts, the apostle saw that marvellous vision which proclaimed to a weary world the brotherhood77 of man. From this spot issued the gospel of democracy: "Of a truth, I perceive that God is no respecter of persons." From this insignificant78 dwelling79 went forth80 the edict that broke the power of tyrants81, and loosed the bonds of slaves, and ennobled the lot of woman, and enfranchised82 the human mind. Of all places on earth I think there is only one more worthy83 of pilgrimage by all devout84 and liberty-loving souls.
We were greatly interested, also, in a visit to the well-known school of Miss Amot, a mission school for girls in the upper chambers85 of a house in the most crowded part of Jaffa. With modest courage and tact86 and self-devotion this lady has sustained it here for twelve years, and the fruits of it already begin to appear. We found twenty or thirty pupils, nearly all quite young, and most of them daughters of Christians87; they are taught in Arabic the common branches, and some English, and they learn to sing. They sang for us English tunes26 like any Sunday school; a strange sound in a Moslem town. There are one or two other schools of a similar character in the Orient, conducted as private enterprises by ladies of culture; and I think there is no work nobler, and none more worthy of liberal support or more likely to result in giving women a decent position in Eastern society.
On a little elevation88 a half-mile outside the walls is a cluster of wooden houses, which were manufactured in America. There we found the remnants of the Adams colony, only half a dozen families out of the original two hundred and fifty persons; two or three men and some widows and children. The colony built in the centre of their settlement an ugly little church out of Maine timber; it now stands empty and staring, with broken windows. It is not difficult to make this adventure appear romantic. Those who engaged in it were plain New England people, many of them ignorant, but devout to fanaticism89. They had heard the prophets expounded90, and the prophecies of the latter days unravelled91, until they came to believe that the day of the Lord was nigh, and that they had laid upon them a mission in the fulfilment of the divine purposes. Most of them were from Maine and New Hampshire, accustomed to bitter winters and to wring92 their living from a niggardly93 soil. I do not wonder that they were fascinated by the pictures of a fair land of blue skies, a land of vines and olives and palms, where they were undoubtedly94 called by the Spirit to a life of greater sanctity and considerable ease and abundance. I think I see their dismay when they first pitched their tents amid this Moslem squalor, and attempted to "squat," Western fashion, upon the skirts of the Plain of Sharon, which has been for some ages pre-empted. They erected houses, however, and joined the other inhabitants of the region in a struggle for existence. But Adams, the preacher and president, had not faith enough to wait for the unfolding of prophecy; he took to strong drink, and with general bad management the whole enterprise came to grief, and the deluded95 people were rescued from starvation only by the liberality of our government.
There was the germ of a good idea in the rash undertaking96. If Palestine is ever to be repeopled, its coming inhabitants must have the means of subsistence; and if those now here are to be redeemed97 to a better life, they must learn to work; before all else there must come a revival99 of industry and a development of the resources of the country. To send here Jews or Gentiles, and to support them by charity, only adds to the existing misery100.
It was eight years ago that the Adams community exploded. Its heirs and successors are Germans, a colony from Wurtemberg, an Advent52 sect101 akin9 to the American, but more single-minded and devout. They own the ground upon which they have settled, having acquired a title from the Turkish government; they have erected substantial houses of stone and a large hotel, The Jerusalem, and give many evidences of shrewdness and thrift102 as well as piety103. They have established a good school, in which, with German thoroughness, Latin, English, and the higher mathematics are taught, and an excellent education may be obtained. More land the colony is not permitted to own; but they hire ground outside the walls which they farm to advantage.
I talked with one of the teachers, a thin young ascetic104 in spectacles, whose severity of countenance105 and demeanor106 was sufficient to rebuke107 all the Oriental levity108 I had encountered during the winter. There was in him and in the other leaders an air of sincere fanaticism, and a sobriety and integrity in the common laborers109, which are the best omens110 for the success of the colony. The leaders told us that they thought the Americans came here with the expectation of making money uppermost in mind, and hardly in the right spirit. As to themselves, they do not expect to make money; they repelled111 the insinuation with some warmth; they have had, in fact, a very hard struggle, and are thankful for a fair measure of success. Their sole present purpose is evidently to redeem98 and reclaim112 the land, and make it fit for the expected day of jubilee113. The Jews from all parts of the world, they say, are to return to Palestine, and there is to issue out of the Holy Land a new divine impulse which is to be the regeneration and salvation114 of the world. I do not know that anybody but the Jews themselves would oppose their migration115 to Palestine, though their withdrawal116 from the business of the world suddenly would create wide disaster. With these doubts, however, we did not trouble the youthful knight117 of severity. We only asked him upon what the community founded its creed118 and its mission. Largely, he replied, upon the prophets, and especially upon Isaiah; and he referred us to Isaiah xxxii. 1; xlix. 12 et seq.; and lii. 1. It is not every industrial community that would flourish on a charter so vague as this.
A lad of twelve or fourteen was our guide to the Advent settlement; he was an early polyglot120, speaking, besides English, French, and German, Arabic, and, I think, a little Greek; a boy of uncommon121 gravity of deportment and of precocious122 shrewdness. He is destined123 to be a guide and dragoman. I could see that the whole Biblical history was a little fade to him, but he does not lose sight of the profit of a knowledge of it. I could not but contrast him with a Sunday-school scholar of his own age in America, whose imagination kindles124 at the Old Testament125 stories, and whose enthusiasm for the Holy Land is awakened126 by the wall maps and the pictures of Solomon's temple. Actual contact has destroyed the imagination of this boy; Jerusalem is not so much a wonder to him as Boston; Samson lived just over there beyond the Plain of Sharon, and is not so much a hero as Old Put.
The boy's mother was a good New Hampshire woman, whose downright Yankeeism of thought and speech was in odd contrast to her Oriental surroundings. I sat in a rocking-chair in the sitting-room127 of her little wood cottage, and could scarcely convince myself that I was not in a prim128 New Hampshire parlor129. To her mind there were no more Oriental illusions, and perhaps she had never indulged any; certainly, in her presence Palestine seemed to me as commonplace as New England.
"I s'pose you 've seen the meetin' house?"
"Yes."
"Wal' it's goin' to rack and ruin like everything else here. There is n't enough here to have any service now. Sometimes I go to the German; I try to keep up a little feeling."
I have no doubt it is more difficult to keep up a religious feeling in the Holy Land than it is in New Hampshire, but we did not discuss that point. I asked, "Do you have any society?"
"Precious little. The Germans are dreffle unsocial. The natives are all a low set. The Arabs will all lie; I don't think much of any of 'em. The Mohammedans are all shiftless; you can't trust any of 'em."
"Why don't you go home?"
"Wal, sometimes I think I'd like to see the old place, but I reckon I could n't stand the winters. This is a nice climate, that's all there is here; and we have grapes and oranges, and loads of flowers,—you see my garden there; I set great store by that and me and my daughter take solid comfort in it, especially when he is away, and he has to be off most of the time with parties, guidin' 'em. No, I guess I sha'n't ever cross the ocean again."
It appeared that the good woman had consoled herself with a second husband, who bears a Jewish name; so that the original object of her mission, to gather in the chosen people, is not altogether lost sight of.
There is a curious interest in these New England transplantations. Climate is a great transformer. The habits and customs of thousands of years will insensibly conquer the most stubborn prejudices. I wonder how long it will require to blend these scions130 of our vigorous civilization with the motley growth that makes up the present Syriac population,—people whose blood is streaked131 with a dozen different strains, Egyptian, Ethiopian, Arabian, Assyrian, Phoenician, Greek, Roman, Canaanite, Jewish, Persian, Turkish, with all the races that have in turn ravaged132 or occupied the land. I do not, indeed, presume to say what the Syrians are who have occupied Palestine for so many hundreds of years, but I cannot see how it can be otherwise than that their blood is as mixed as that of the modern Egyptians. Perhaps these New England offshoots will maintain their distinction of race for a long time, but I should be still more interested to know how long the New England mind will keep its integrity in these surroundings, and whether those ruggednesses of virtue133 and those homely134 simplicities135 of character which we recognize as belonging to the hilly portions of New England will insensibly melt away in this relaxing air that so much wants moral tone. These Oriental countries have been conquered many times, but they have always conquered their conquerors. I am told that even our American consuls136 are not always more successful in resisting the undermining seductions of the East than were the Roman proconsuls.
These reflections, however, let it be confessed, did not come to me as I sat in the rocking-chair of my countrywoman. I was rather thinking how completely her presence and accent dispelled137 all my Oriental illusions and cheapened the associations of Jaffa. There is I know not what in a real living Yankee that puts all appearances to the test and dissipates the colors of romance. It was not until I came again into the highway and found in front of The Jerusalem hotel a company of Arab acrobats138 and pyramid-builders, their swarthy bodies shining in the white sunlight, and a lot of idlers squatting139 about in enjoyment140 of the exertions141 of others, that I recovered in any degree my delusions142.
With the return of these, it seemed not so impossible to believe even in the return of the Jews; especially when we learned that preparations for them multiply. A second German colony has been established outside of the city. There is another at Haifa; on the Jerusalem road the beginning of one has been made by the Jews themselves. It amounts to something like a "movement."
At three o'clock in the afternoon we set out for Ramleh, ignominiously143, in a wagon144. There is a carriage-road from Jaffa to Jerusalem, and our dragoman had promised us a "private carriage." We decided145 to take it, thinking it would be more comfortable than horseback for some of our party. We made a mistake which we have never ceased to regret. The road I can confidently commend as the worst in the world. The carriage into which we climbed belonged to the German colony, and was a compromise between the ancient ark, a modern dray, and a threshing-machine. It was one of those contrivances that a German would evolve out of his inner consciousness, and its appearance here gave me grave doubts as to the adaptability146 of these honest Germans to the Orient. It was, however, a great deal worse than it looked. If it were driven over smooth ground it would soon loosen all the teeth of the passengers, and shatter their spinal147 columns. But over the Jerusalem road the effect was indescribable. The noise of it was intolerable, the jolting148 incredible. The little solid Dutchman, who sat in front and drove, shook like the charioteer of an artillery149 wagon; but I suppose he had no feeling. We pounded along over the roughest stone pavement, with the sensation of victims drawn150 to execution in a cart, until we emerged into the open country; but there we found no improvement in the road.
Jaffa is surrounded by immense orange groves151, which are protected along the highways by hedges of prickly-pear. We came out from a lane of these upon the level and blooming Plain of Sharon, and saw before us, on the left, the blue hills of Jud鎍. It makes little difference what kind of conveyance one has, it is impossible for him to advance upon this historic, if not sacred plain, and catch the first glimpse of those pale hills which stood to him for a celestial153 vision in his childhood, without a great quickening of the pulse; and it is a most lovely view after Egypt, or after anything. The elements of it are simple enough,—merely a wide sweep of prairie and a line of graceful155 mountains; but the forms are pleasing, and the color is incomparable. The soil is warm and red, the fields are a mass of wild-flowers of the most brilliant and variegated156 hues157, and, alternately swept by the shadows of clouds and bathed in the sun, the scene takes on the animation158 of incessant159 change.
It was somewhere here, outside the walls, I do not know the spot, that the massacre160 of Jaffa occurred. I purposely go out of my way to repeat the well-known story of it, and I trust that it will always be recalled whenever any mention is made of the cruel little Corsican who so long imposed the vulgarity and savageness161 of his selfish nature upon Europe. It was in March, 1799, that Napoleon, toward the close of his humiliating and disastrous162 campaign in Egypt, carried Jaffa by storm. The town was given over to pillage163. During its progress four thousand Albanians of the garrison164, taking refuge in some old khans, offered to surrender on condition that their lives should be spared; otherwise they would fight to the bitter end. Their terms were accepted, and two of Napoleon's aids-de-camp pledged their honor for their safety. They were marched out to the general's headquarters and seated in front of the tents with their arms bound behind them. The displeased165 commander called a council of war and deliberated two days upon their fate, and then signed the order for the massacre of the entire body. The excuse was that the general could not be burdened with so many prisoners. Thus in one day were murdered in cold blood about as many people as Jaffa at present contains. Its inhabitants may be said to have been accustomed to being massacred; eight thousand of them were butchered in one Roman assault; but I suppose all antiquity may be searched in vain for an act of perfidy166 and cruelty combined equal to that of the Grand Emperor.
The road over which we rattle167 is a causeway of loose stones; the country is a plain of sand, but clothed with a luxuriant vegetation. In the fields the brown husbandmen are plowing168, turning up the soft red earth with a rude plough drawn by cattle yoked169 wide apart. Red-legged storks170, on their way, I suppose, from Egypt to their summer residence further north, dot the meadows, and are too busy picking up worms to notice our halloo. Abd-el-Atti, who has a passion for shooting, begs permission to "go for" these household birds with the gun; but we explain to him that we would no more shoot a stork171 than one of the green birds of Paradise. Quails172 are scudding173 about in the newly turned furrows174, and song birds salute175 us from the tops of swinging cypresses176. The Holy Land is rejoicing in its one season of beauty, its spring-time.
Trees are not wanting to the verdant177 meadows. We still encounter an occasional grove152 of oranges; olives also appear, and acacias, sycamores, cypresses, and tamarisks. The pods of the carob-tree are, I believe, the husks upon which the prodigal178 son did not thrive. Large patches of barley179 are passed. But the fields not occupied with grain are literally180 carpeted with wild-flowers of the most brilliant hues, such a display as I never saw elsewhere: scarlet181 and dark flaming poppies, the scarlet anemone182, marigolds, white daisies, the lobelia, the lupin, the vetch, the gorse with its delicate yellow blossom, the pea, something that we agreed to call the white rose of Sharon, the mallow, the asphodel; the leaves of a lily not yet in bloom. About the rose of Sharon we no doubt were mistaken. There is no reason to suppose it was white; but we have somehow associated the purity of that color with the song beginning, "I am the rose of Sharon and the lily of the valleys." It was probably not even a rose. We finally decided to cherish the red mallow as the rose of Sharon; it is very abundant, and the botanist183 of our company seemed satisfied to accept it. For myself, the rose by the name of mallow does not smell sweet.
We come in sight of Rainleh, which lies on the swelling184 mounds185 of the green plain, encompassed186 by emerald meadows and by groves of orange and olive, and conspicuous187 from a great distance by its elegant square tower, the most beautiful in form that we have seen in the East. As the sun is sinking, we defer188 our visit to it and drive to the Latin convent, where we are to lodge189, permission to that effect having been obtained from the sister convent at Jaffa; a mere154 form, since a part of the convent was built expressly for the entertainment of travellers, and the few monks190 who occupy it find keeping a hotel a very profitable kind of hospitality. The stranger is the guest of the superior, no charge is made, and the little fiction of gratuitous192 hospitality so pleases the pilgrim that he will not at his departure be outdone in liberality. It would be much more agreeable if all our hotels were upon this system.
While the dragoman is unpacking193 the luggage in the court-yard and bustling194 about in a manner to impress the establishment with the importance of its accession, I climb up to the roofs to get the sunset. The house is all roofs, it would seem, at different levels. Steps lead here and there, and one can wander about at will; you could not desire a pleasanter lounging-place in a summer evening. The protecting walls, which are breast-high, are built in with cylinders195 of tile, like the mud houses in Egypt; the tiles make the walls lighter37, and furnish at the same time peep-holes through which the monks can spy the world, themselves unseen. I noticed that the tiles about the entrance court were inclined downwards196, so that a curious person could study any new arrival at the convent without being himself observed. The sun went down behind the square tower which is called Saracenic and is entirely197 Gothic in spirit, and the light lay soft and rosy198 on the wide compass of green vegetation; I heard on the distant fields the bells of mules199 returning to the gates, and the sound substituted Italy in my mind for Palestine.
From this prospect200 I was summoned in haste; the superior of the convent was waiting to receive me, and I had been sought in all directions. I had no idea why I should be received, but I soon found that the occasion was not a trivial one. In the reception-room were seated in some state the superior, attended by two or three brothers, and the remainder of my suite201 already assembled. The abbot, if he is an abbot, arose and cordially welcomed "the general" to his humble202 establishment, hoped that he was not fatigued204 by the journey from Jaffa, and gave him a seat beside himself. The remainder of the party were ranged according to their rank. I replied that the journey was on the contrary delightful205, and that any journey could be considered fortunate which had the hospitable206 convent of Ramleh as its end. The courteous207 monk191 renewed his solicitous208 inquiries209, and my astonishment210 was increased by the botanist, who gravely assured the worthy father that "the general" was accustomed to fatigue203, and that such a journey as this was a recreation to him.
"What in the mischief211 is all this about?" I seized a moment to whisper to the person next me.
"You are a distinguished212 American general, travelling with his lady in pursuit of Heaven knows what, and accompanied by his suite; don't make a mess of it."
"Oh," I said, "if I am a distinguished American general, travelling with my lady in pursuit of Heaven knows what, I am glad to know it."
Fortunately the peaceful father did not know anything more of war than I did, and I suppose my hastily assumed modesty213 of the soldier seemed to him the real thing. It was my first experience of anything like real war, the first time I had ever occupied any military position, and it did not seem to be so arduous214 as has been represented.
Great regret was expressed by the superior that they had not anticipated my arrival, in order to have entertained me in a more worthy manner; the convent was uncommonly215 full of pilgrims, and it would be difficult to lodge my suite as it deserved. Then there followed a long discussion between the father and one of the monks upon our disposition216 for the night.
"If we give the general and his lady the south room in the court, then the doctor"—etc., etc.
"Or," urged the monk, "suppose the general and his lady occupy the cell number four, then mademoiselle can take"—etc., etc.
The military commander and his lady were at last shown into a cell opening out of the court, a lofty but narrow vaulted217 room, with brick floor and thick walls, and one small window near the ceiling. Instead of candles we had antique Roman lamps, which made a feeble glimmer218 in the cavern219; the oddest water-jugs served for pitchers220. It may not have been damp, but it felt as if no sun had ever penetrated221 the chill interior.
"What is all this nonsense of the general?" I asked Abd-el-Atti, as soon as I could get hold of that managing factotum222.
"Dunno, be sure; these monk always pay more attention to 'stinguish people."
"But what did you say at the convent in Jaffa when you applied223 for a permit to lodge here?"
"Oh, I tell him my gentleman general American, but 'stinguish; mebbe he done gone wrote 'em that you 'stinguish American general. Very nice man, the superior, speak Italian beautiful; when I give him the letter, he say he do all he can for the general and his suite; he sorry I not let him know 'forehand."
The dinner was served in the long refectory, and there were some twenty-five persons at table, mostly pilgrims to Jerusalem, and most of them of the poorer class. One bright Italian had travelled alone with her little boy all the way from Verona, only to see the Holy Sepulchre. The monks waited at table and served a very good dinner. Travellers are not permitted to enter the portion of the large convent which contains the cells of the monks, nor to visit any part of the old building except the chapel224. I fancied that the jolly brothers who waited at table were rather glad to come into contact with the world, even in this capacity.
In the dining-room hangs a notable picture. It is the Virgin225, enthroned, with a crown and aureole, holding the holy child, who is also crowned; in the foreground is a choir226 of white boys or angels. The Virgin and child are both black; it is the Virgin of Ethiopia. I could not learn the origin of this picture; it was rude enough in execution to be the work of a Greek artist of the present day; but it was said to come from Ethiopia, where it is necessary to a proper respect for the Virgin that she should be represented black. She seems to bear something the relation to the Virgin of Jud鎍 that Astarte did to the Grecian Venus. And we are again reminded that the East has no prejudice of color: "I am black but comely227, O ye daughters of Jerusalem"; "Look not upon me because I am black, because the sun hath looked upon me."
The convent bells are ringing at early dawn, and though we are up at half past five, nearly all the pilgrims have hastily departed for Jerusalem. Upon the roof I find the morning fair. There are more minarets228 than spires229 in sight, but they stand together in this pretty little town without discord230. The bells are ringing in melodious231 persuasion232, but at the same time, in voices as musical, the muezzins are calling from their galleries; each summoning men to prayer in its own way. From these walls spectators once looked down upon the battles of cross and crescent raging in the lovely meadows,—battles of quite as much pride as piety. A common interest always softens233 animosity, and I fancy that monks and Moslems will not again resort to the foolish practice of breaking each other's heads so long as they enjoy the profitable stream of pilgrims to the Holy Land.
After breakfast and a gift to the treasury234 of the convent according to our rank—I think if I were to stay there again it would be in the character of a common soldier—we embarked235 again in the ark, and jolted236 along behind the square-shouldered driver, who seemed to enjoy the rattling237 and rumbling238 of his clumsy vehicle. But no minor239 infelicity could destroy for us the freshness of the morning or the enjoyment of the lovely country. Although, in the jolting, one could not utter a remark about the beauty of the way without danger of biting his tongue in two, we feasted our eyes and let our imaginations loose over the vast ranges of the Old Testament story.
After passing through the fertile meadows of Ramleh, we came into a more rolling country, destitute240 of houses, but clothed on with a most brilliant bloom of wild-flowers, among which the papilionaceous flowers were conspicuous for color and delicacy241. I found by the roadside a black calla (which I should no more have believed in than in the black Virgin, if I had not seen it). Its leaf is exactly that of our calla-lily; its flower is similar to, but not so open and flaring242, as the white calla, and the pistil is large and very long, and of the color of the interior of the flower. The corolla is green on the outside, but the inside is incomparably rich, like velvet243, black in some lights and dark maroon244 in others. Nothing could be finer in color and texture245 than this superb flower. Besides the blooms of yesterday we noticed buttercups, various sorts of the ranunculus, among them the scarlet and the shooting-star, a light purple flower with a dark purple centre, the Star of Bethlehem, and the purple wind-flower. Scarlet poppies and the still more brilliant scarlet anemones246, dandelions, marguerites, filled all the fields with masses of color.
Shortly we come into the hills, through which the road winds upward, and the scenery is very much like that of the Adirondacks, or would be if the rocky hills of the latter were denuded247 of trees. The way begins to be lively with passengers, and it becomes us to be circumspect248, for almost every foot of ground has been consecrated249 or desecrated250, or in some manner made memorable251. This heap of rubbish is the remains252 of a fortress253 which the Saracens captured, built by the Crusaders to guard the entrance of the pass, upon the site of an older fortification by the Maccabees, or founded upon Roman substructions, and mentioned in Judges as the spot where some very ancient Jew stayed overnight. It is also, no doubt, one of the stations that help us to determine with the accuracy of a surveyor the boundary between the territory of Benjamin and Judah. I try to ascertain254 all these localities and to remember them all, but I sometimes get Richard Cour de Lion mixed with Jonathan Maccab鎢s, and I have no doubt I mistook "Job's convent" for the Castellum boni Latronis, a place we were specially119 desirous to see as the birthplace of the "penitent255 thief." But whatever we confounded, we are certain of one thing: we looked over into the Valley of Ajalon. It was over this valley that Joshua commanded the moon to tarry while he smote256 the fugitive Amorites on the heights of Gibeon, there to the east.
The road is thronged257 with pilgrims to Jerusalem, and with travellers and their attendants,—gay cavalcades258 scattered259 all along the winding260 way over the rolling plain, as in the picture of the Pilgrims to Canterbury. All the transport of freight as well as passengers is by the backs of beasts of burden. There are long files of horses and mules staggering under enormous loads of trunks, tents, and bags. Dragomans, some of them got up in fierce style, with baggy261 yellow trousers, yellow kuffias bound about the head with a twisted fillet, armed with long Damascus swords, their belts stuck full of pistols, and a rifle slung262 on the back, gallop73 furiously along the line, the signs of danger but the assurances of protection. Camp boys and waiters dash along also, on the pack-horses, with a great clatter263 of kitchen furniture; even a scullion has an air of adventure as he pounds his rack-a-bone steed into a vicious gallop. And there are the Cook's tourists, called by everybody "Cookies," men and women struggling on according to the pace of their horses, conspicuous in hats with white muslin drapery hanging over the neck. Villanous-looking fellows with or without long guns, coming and going on the highway, have the air of being neither pilgrims nor strangers. We meet women returning from Jerusalem clad in white, seated astride their horses, or upon beds which top their multifarious baggage.
We are leaving behind us on the right the country of Samson, in which he passed his playful and engaging boyhood, and we look wistfully towards it. Of Zorah, where he was born, nothing is left but a cistern264, and there is only a wretched hamlet to mark the site of Timnath, where he got his Philistine265 wife. "Get her for me, for she pleaseth me well," was his only reply to the entreaty266 of his father that he would be content with a maid of his own people.
The country gets wilder and more rocky as we ascend. Down the ragged267 side paths come wretched women and girls, staggering under the loads of brushwood which they have cut in the high ravines; loads borne upon the head that would tax the strength of a strong man. I found it no easy task to lift one of the bundles. The poor creatures were scantily268 clad in a single garment of coarse brown cloth, but most of them wore a profusion269 of ornaments270; strings271 of coins, Turkish and Arabic, on the head and breast, and uncouth272 rings and bracelets273. Farther on a rabble274 of boys besets275 us, begging for backsheesh in piteous and whining276 tones, and throwing up their arms in theatrical277 gestures of despair.
All the hills bear marks of having once been terraced to the very tops, for vines and olives. The natural ledges278 seem to have been humored into terraces and occasionally built up and broadened by stone walls; but where the hill was smooth, traces of terraces are yet visible. The grape is still cultivated low down the steeps, and the olives straggle over some of the hills to the very top; but these feeble efforts of culture or of nature do little to relieve the deserted279 aspect of the scene.
We lunch in a pretty olive grove, upon a slope long ago terraced and now grass-grown and flower-sown; lovely vistas280 open into cool glades281, and paths lead upward among the rocks to inviting282 retreats. From this high perch283 in the bosom284 of the hills we look off upon Ramleh, Jaffa, the broad Plain of Sharon, and the sea. A strip of sand between the sea and the plain produces the effect of a mirage285, giving to the plain the appearance of the sea. It would be a charming spot for a country-seat for a resident of Jerusalem, although Jerusalem itself is rural enough at present; and David and Solomon may have had summer pavilions in these cool shades in sight of the Mediterranean. David himself, however, perhaps had enough of this region—when he dodged286 about in these fastnesses between Ramah and Gath, from the pursuit of Saul—to make him content with a city life. There is nothing to hinder our believing that he often enjoyed this prospect; and we do believe it, for it is already evident that the imagination must be called in to create an enjoyment of this deserted land. David no doubt loved this spot. For David was a poet, even at this early period when his occupation was that of a successful guerilla; and he had all the true poet's adaptability, as witness the exquisite287 ode he composed on the death of his enemy Saul. I have no doubt that he enjoyed this lovely prospect often, for he was a man who enjoyed heartily288 everything lovely. He was in this as in all he did a thorough man; when he made a raid on an Amorite city, he left neither man, woman, nor child alive to spread the news.
We have already mounted over two thousand feet. The rocks are silicious limestone289, crumbling290 and gray with ages of exposure; they give the landscape an ashy appearance. But there is always a little verdure amid the rocks, and now and then an olive-tree, perhaps a very old one, decrepit291 and twisted into the most fantastic form, as if distorted by a vegetable rheumatism292, casting abroad its withered293 arms as if the tree writhed294 in pain. On such ghostly trees I have no doubt the five kings were hanged. Another tree or rather shrub295 is abundant, the dwarf-oak; and the hawthorn296, now in blossom, is frequently seen. The rock-rose—a delicate white single flower—blooms by the wayside and amid the ledges, and the scarlet anemone flames out more brilliantly than ever. Nothing indeed could be more beautiful than the contrast of the clusters of scarlet anemones and white roses with the gray rocks.
We soon descend297 into a valley and reach the site of Kirjath-Jearim, which has not much ancient interest for me, except that the name is pleasing; but on the other side of the stream and opposite a Moslem fountain are the gloomy stone habitations of the family of the terrible Abu Ghaush, whose robberies of travellers kept the whole country in a panic a quarter of a century ago. He held the key of this pass, and let no one go by without toll298. For fifty years he and his companions defied the Turkish government, and even went to the extremity299 of murdering two pashas who attempted to pass this way. He was disposed of in 1846, but his descendants still live here, having the inclination300 but not the courage of the old chief. We did not encounter any of them, but I have never seen any buildings that have such a wicked physiognomy as their grim houses.
Near by is the ruin of a low, thick-walled chapel, of a pure Gothic style, a remnant of the Crusaders' occupation. The gloomy wady has another association; a monkish301 tradition would have us believe it was the birthplace of Jeremiah; if the prophet was born in such a hard country it might account for his lamentations. As we pass out of this wady, the German driver points to a forlorn village clinging to the rocky slope of a hill to the right, and says,—
"That is where John Baptist was born."
The information is sudden and seems improbable, especially as there are other places where he was born.
"How do you know?" we ask.
"O, I know ganz wohl; I been five years in dis land, and I ought to know."
Descending302 into a deep ravine we cross a brook303, which we are told is the one that flows into the Valley of Elah, the valley of the "terebinth" or button trees; and if so, it is the brook out of which David took the stone that killed Goliath. It is a bright, dashing stream. I stood upon the bridge, watching it dancing down the ravine, and should have none but agreeable recollections of it, but that close to the bridge stood a vile304 grog-shop, and in the doorway305 sat the most villanous-looking man I ever saw in Jud鎍, rapacity306 and murder in his eyes. The present generation have much more to fear from him and his drugged liquors than the Israelite had from the giant of Gath.
While the wagon zigzags307 up the last long hill, I mount by a short path and come upon a rocky plateau, across which runs a broad way, on the bed rock, worn smooth by many centuries of travel: by the passing of caravans308 and armies to Jerusalem, of innumerable generations of peasants, of chariots, of horses, mules, and foot-soldiers; here went the messengers of the king's pleasure, and here came the heralds309 and legates of foreign nations; this great highway the kings and prophets themselves must have trodden when they journeyed towards the sea; for ? cannot learn that the Jews ever had any decent roads, and perhaps they never attained310 the civilization necessary to build them. We have certainly seen no traces of anything like a practicable ancient highway on this route.
Indeed, the greatest wonder to me in the whole East is that there has not been a good road built from Jaffa to Jerusalem; that the city sacred to more than half the world, to all the most powerful nations, to Moslems, Jews, Greeks, Roman Catholics, Protestants, the desire of all lands, and the object of pilgrimage with the delicate and the feeble as well as the strong, should not have a highway to it over which one can ride without being jarred and stunned311 and pounded to a jelly; that the Jews should never have made a road to their seaport312; that the Romans, the road-builders, do not seem to have constructed one over this important route. The Sultan began this one over which we have been dragged, for the Empress Eugenie. But he did not finish it; most of the way it is a mere rubble313 of stones. The track is well engineered, and the road bed is well enough; soft stone is at hand to form an excellent dressing314, and it might be, in a short time, as good a highway as any in Switzerland, if the Sultan would set some of his lazy subjects to work out their taxes on it. Of course, it is now a great improvement over the old path for mules; but as a carriage road it is atrocious. Imagine thirty-six miles of cobble pavement, with every other stone gone and the remainder sharpened!
Perhaps, however, it is best not to have a decent road to the Holy City of the world. It would make going there easy, even for delicate ladies and invalid315 clergymen; it would reduce the cost of the trip from Jaffa by two thirds; it would take away employment from a lot of vagabonds who harry316 the traveller over the route; it would make the pilgrimage too much a luxury, in these days of pilgrimages by rail, and of little faith, or rather of a sort of lacquer of faith which is only credulity.
Upon this plateau we begin to discern signs of the neighborhood of the city, and we press forward with the utmost eagerness, disappointed at every turn that a sight of it is not disclosed. Scattered settlements extend for some distance out on the Jaffa road. We pass a school which the Germans have established for Arab boys; an institution which does not meet the approval of our restoration driver; the boys, when they come out, he says, don't know what they are; they are neither Moslems nor Christians. We go rapidly on over the swelling hill, but the city will not reveal itself. We expect it any moment to rise up before us, conspicuous on its ancient hills, its walls shining in the sun.
We pass a guard-house, some towers, and newly built private residences. Our pulses are beating a hundred to the minute, but the city refuses to "burst" upon us as it does upon other travellers. We have advanced far enough to see that there is no elevation before us higher than that we are on. The great sight of all our lives is only a moment separated from us; in a few rods more our hearts will be satisfied by that long-dreamed-of prospect. How many millions of pilgrims have hurried along this road, lifting up their eyes in impatience317 for the vision! But it does not come suddenly. We have already seen it, when the driver stops, points with his whip, and cries,—
"Jerusalem!"
"What, that?"
We are above it and nearly upon it. What we see is chiefly this: the domes318 and long buildings of the Russian Hospice, on higher ground than the city and concealing319 a good part of it; a large number of new houses, built of limestone prettily320 streaked with the red oxyde of iron; the roofs of a few of the city houses, and a little portion of the wall that overlooks the Valley of Hinnom. The remainder of the city of David is visible to the imagination.
The suburb through which we pass cannot be called pleasing. Everything outside the walls looks new and naked; the whitish glare of the stone is relieved by little vegetation, and the effect is that of barrenness. As we drive down along the wall of the Russian convent, we begin to meet pilgrims and strangers, with whom the city overflows321 at this season; many Russian peasants, unkempt, unsavory fellows, with long hair and dirty apparel, but most of them wearing a pelisse trimmed with fur and a huge fur hat. There are coffee-houses and all sorts of cheap booths and shanty322 shops along the highway. The crowd is motley and far from pleasant; it is sordid323, grimy, hard, very different from the more homogeneous, easy, flowing, graceful, and picturesque324 assemblage of vagabonds at the gate of an Egyptian town. There are Russians, Cossacks, Georgians, Jews, Armenians, Syrians. The northern dirt and squalor and fanaticism do not come gracefully325 into the Orient. Besides, the rabble is importunate326 and impudent327.
We enter by the Jaffa and Hebron gate, a big square tower, with the exterior328 entrance to the north and the interior to the east, and the short turn is choked with camels and horses and a clamorous329 crowd. Beside it stands the ruinous citadel330 of Saladin and the Tower of David, a noble entrance to a mean street. Through the rush of footmen and horsemen, beggars, venders of olive-wood, Moslems, Jews, and Greeks, we make our way to the Mediterranean Hotel, a rambling331 new hostelry. In passing to our rooms we pause a moment upon an open balcony to look down into the green Pool of Hezekiah, and off over the roofs to the Mount of Olives. Having secured our rooms, I hasten along narrow and abominably332 cobbled streets, mere ditches of stone, lined with mean shops, to the Centre of the Earth, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
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1
ignominious
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| adj.可鄙的，不光彩的，耻辱的 | |
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mariners
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| 海员，水手（mariner的复数形式） | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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Mediterranean
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| adj.地中海的；地中海沿岸的 | |
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stranding
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| n.（船只）搁浅v.使滞留，使搁浅( strand的现在分词 ) | |
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apprehensions
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| 疑惧 | |
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akin
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| adj.同族的，类似的 | |
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attired
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| adj.穿着整齐的v.使穿上衣服，使穿上盛装( attire的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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villain
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| n.反派演员，反面人物；恶棍；问题的起因 | |
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lustre
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| n.光亮，光泽；荣誉 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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geographical
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| adj.地理的；地区(性)的 | |
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maritime
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| adj.海的，海事的，航海的，近海的，沿海的 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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deluge
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| n./vt.洪水，暴雨，使泛滥 | |
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swarm
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| n.(昆虫)等一大群；vi.成群飞舞；蜂拥而入 | |
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swarmed
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| 密集( swarm的过去式和过去分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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hegira
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| n.逃亡 | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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conquerors
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| 征服者，占领者( conqueror的名词复数 ) | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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tunes
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| n.曲调，曲子( tune的名词复数 )v.调音( tune的第三人称单数 )；调整；（给收音机、电视等）调谐；使协调 | |
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perilous
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| adj.危险的，冒险的 | |
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mole
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| n.胎块；痣；克分子 | |
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pier
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| n.码头；桥墩，桥柱；[建]窗间壁，支柱 | |
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requisite
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ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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aggravating
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| adj.恼人的，讨厌的 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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frantic
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| adj.狂乱的，错乱的，激昂的 | |
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frightful
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| adj.可怕的；讨厌的 | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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lighter
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| n.打火机，点火器；驳船；v.用驳船运送；light的比较级 | |
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lighters
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| n.打火机，点火器( lighter的名词复数 ) | |
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frisky
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| adj.活泼的，欢闹的；n.活泼，闹着玩；adv.活泼地，闹着玩地 | |
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transit
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| n.经过，运输；vt.穿越，旋转；vi.越过 | |
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fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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rusty
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| adj.生锈的；锈色的；荒废了的 | |
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cannon
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| n.大炮，火炮；飞机上的机关炮 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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pervades
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| v.遍及，弥漫( pervade的第三人称单数 ) | |
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scriptures
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| 经文，圣典( scripture的名词复数 )； 经典 | |
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fugitive
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| adj.逃亡的，易逝的；n.逃犯，逃亡者 | |
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conveyance
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| n.(不动产等的)转让，让与；转让证书；传送；运送；表达；（正）运输工具 | |
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embarkation
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| n. 乘船, 搭机, 开船 | |
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perusal
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| n.细读，熟读；目测 | |
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advent
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| n.(重要事件等的)到来，来临 | |
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crooked
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| adj.弯曲的；不诚实的，狡猾的，不正当的 | |
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bazaars
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| （东方国家的）市场( bazaar的名词复数 )； 义卖； 义卖市场； （出售花哨商品等的）小商品市场 | |
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55
mosque
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| n.清真寺 | |
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56
Moslem
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| n.回教徒，穆罕默德信徒；adj.回教徒的，回教的 | |
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57
canopy
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| n.天篷，遮篷 | |
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58
profusely
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| ad.abundantly | |
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59
inscriptions
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| （作者）题词( inscription的名词复数 )； 献词； 碑文； 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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60
tint
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| n.淡色，浅色；染发剂；vt.着以淡淡的颜色 | |
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61
orchard
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| n.果园，果园里的全部果树，(美俚)棒球场 | |
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62
tinge
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| vt.(较淡)着色于，染色；使带有…气息；n.淡淡色彩，些微的气息 | |
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63
ostrich
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| n.鸵鸟 | |
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64
rhinoceros
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| n.犀牛 | |
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65
pulp
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| n.果肉，纸浆；v.化成纸浆，除去...果肉，制成纸浆 | |
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66
cactus
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| n.仙人掌 | |
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67
bustle
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| v.喧扰地忙乱，匆忙，奔忙；n.忙碌；喧闹 | |
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68
touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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69
trot
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| n.疾走，慢跑；n.老太婆；现成译本；(复数）trots:腹泻（与the 连用）；v.小跑，快步走，赶紧 | |
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70
perils
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| 极大危险( peril的名词复数 )； 危险的事（或环境） | |
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71
arsenal
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| n.兵工厂，军械库 | |
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72
gallops
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| （马等）奔驰，骑马奔驰( gallop的名词复数 ) | |
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73
gallop
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| v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔；飞速发展 | |
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74
curb
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| n.场外证券市场，场外交易；vt.制止，抑制 | |
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75
brackish
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| adj.混有盐的；咸的 | |
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76
oversight
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| n.勘漏，失察，疏忽 | |
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77
brotherhood
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| n.兄弟般的关系，手中情谊 | |
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78
insignificant
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| adj.无关紧要的，可忽略的，无意义的 | |
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79
dwelling
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| n.住宅，住所，寓所 | |
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80
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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81
tyrants
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| 专制统治者( tyrant的名词复数 )； 暴君似的人； （古希腊的）僭主； 严酷的事物 | |
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82
enfranchised
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| v.给予选举权( enfranchise的过去式和过去分词 )；（从奴隶制中）解放 | |
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83
worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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84
devout
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| adj.虔诚的，虔敬的，衷心的 (n.devoutness) | |
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85
chambers
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| n.房间( chamber的名词复数 )；（议会的）议院；卧室；会议厅 | |
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86
tact
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| n.机敏，圆滑，得体 | |
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87
Christians
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| n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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88
elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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89
fanaticism
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| n.狂热，盲信 | |
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90
expounded
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| 论述，详细讲解( expound的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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91
unravelled
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| 解开，拆散，散开( unravel的过去式和过去分词 )； 阐明； 澄清； 弄清楚 | |
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92
wring
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| n.扭绞；v.拧，绞出，扭 | |
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93
niggardly
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| adj.吝啬的，很少的 | |
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94
undoubtedly
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| adv.确实地，无疑地 | |
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95
deluded
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| v.欺骗，哄骗( delude的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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96
undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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97
redeemed
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| adj. 可赎回的，可救赎的 动词redeem的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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98
redeem
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| v.买回，赎回，挽回，恢复，履行（诺言等） | |
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99
revival
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| n.复兴，复苏，（精力、活力等的）重振 | |
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100
misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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101
sect
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| n.派别，宗教，学派，派系 | |
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102
thrift
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| adj.节约，节俭；n.节俭，节约 | |
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103
piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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104
ascetic
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| adj.禁欲的；严肃的 | |
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105
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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106
demeanor
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| n.行为；风度 | |
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107
rebuke
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| v.指责，非难，斥责 [反]praise | |
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108
levity
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| n.轻率，轻浮，不稳定，多变 | |
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109
laborers
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| n.体力劳动者，工人( laborer的名词复数 )；（熟练工人的）辅助工 | |
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110
omens
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| n.前兆，预兆( omen的名词复数 ) | |
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111
repelled
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| v.击退( repel的过去式和过去分词 )；使厌恶；排斥；推开 | |
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112
reclaim
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| v.要求归还，收回；开垦 | |
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113
jubilee
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| n.周年纪念；欢乐 | |
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114
salvation
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| n.（尤指基督）救世，超度，拯救，解困 | |
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115
migration
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| n.迁移，移居，（鸟类等的）迁徙 | |
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116
withdrawal
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| n.取回，提款；撤退，撤军；收回，撤销 | |
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117
knight
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| n.骑士，武士；爵士 | |
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118
creed
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| n.信条；信念，纲领 | |
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119
specially
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| adv.特定地；特殊地；明确地 | |
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120
polyglot
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| adj.通晓数种语言的；n.通晓多种语言的人 | |
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121
uncommon
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| adj.罕见的，非凡的，不平常的 | |
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122
precocious
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| adj.早熟的；较早显出的 | |
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123
destined
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| adj.命中注定的；(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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124
kindles
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| （使某物）燃烧，着火( kindle的第三人称单数 )； 激起（感情等）； 发亮，放光 | |
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125
testament
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| n.遗嘱；证明 | |
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126
awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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127
sitting-room
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| n.（BrE）客厅，起居室 | |
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128
prim
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|
| adj.拘泥形式的，一本正经的；n.循规蹈矩，整洁；adv.循规蹈矩地，整洁地 | |
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129
parlor
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| n.店铺，营业室；会客室，客厅 | |
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130
scions
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| n.接穗，幼枝( scion的名词复数 )；（尤指富家）子孙 | |
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131
streaked
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| adj.有条斑纹的，不安的v.快速移动( streak的过去式和过去分词 )；使布满条纹 | |
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132
ravaged
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| 毁坏( ravage的过去式和过去分词 )； 蹂躏； 劫掠； 抢劫 | |
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133
virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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134
homely
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| adj.家常的，简朴的；不漂亮的 | |
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135
simplicities
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| n.简单，朴素，率直( simplicity的名词复数 ) | |
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136
consuls
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| 领事( consul的名词复数 )； （古罗马共和国时期）执政官 （古罗马共和国及其军队的最高首长，同时共有两位，每年选举一次） | |
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137
dispelled
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| v.驱散，赶跑( dispel的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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138
acrobats
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| n.杂技演员( acrobat的名词复数 )；立场观点善变的人，主张、政见等变化无常的人 | |
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139
squatting
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的现在分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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140
enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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141
exertions
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| n.努力( exertion的名词复数 )；费力；（能力、权力等的）运用；行使 | |
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142
delusions
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| n.欺骗( delusion的名词复数 )；谬见；错觉；妄想 | |
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143
ignominiously
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| adv.耻辱地，屈辱地，丢脸地 | |
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144
wagon
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| n.四轮马车，手推车，面包车；无盖运货列车 | |
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145
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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146
adaptability
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| n.适应性 | |
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147
spinal
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| adj.针的，尖刺的，尖刺状突起的；adj.脊骨的，脊髓的 | |
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148
jolting
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| adj.令人震惊的 | |
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149
artillery
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| n.(军)火炮，大炮；炮兵(部队) | |
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150
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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151
groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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152
grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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153
celestial
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| adj.天体的；天上的 | |
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154
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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155
graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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156
variegated
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| adj.斑驳的，杂色的 | |
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157
hues
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| 色彩( hue的名词复数 )； 色调； 信仰； 观点 | |
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158
animation
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| n.活泼，兴奋，卡通片／动画片的制作 | |
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159
incessant
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| adj.不停的，连续的 | |
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160
massacre
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| n.残杀，大屠杀；v.残杀，集体屠杀 | |
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161
savageness
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| 天然，野蛮 | |
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162
disastrous
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| adj.灾难性的，造成灾害的；极坏的，很糟的 | |
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163
pillage
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| v.抢劫；掠夺；n.抢劫，掠夺；掠夺物 | |
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164
garrison
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| n.卫戍部队；驻地，卫戍区；vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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165
displeased
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| a.不快的 | |
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166
perfidy
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| n.背信弃义，不忠贞 | |
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167
rattle
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| v.飞奔，碰响；激怒；n.碰撞声；拨浪鼓 | |
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168
plowing
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| v.耕( plow的现在分词 )；犁耕；费力穿过 | |
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169
yoked
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| 结合（yoke的过去式形式） | |
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170
storks
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| n.鹳( stork的名词复数 ) | |
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171
stork
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| n.鹳 | |
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172
quails
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| 鹌鹑( quail的名词复数 )； 鹌鹑肉 | |
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173
scudding
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| n.刮面v.（尤指船、舰或云彩）笔直、高速而平稳地移动( scud的现在分词 ) | |
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174
furrows
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| n.犁沟( furrow的名词复数 )；（脸上的）皱纹v.犁田，开沟( furrow的第三人称单数 ) | |
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175
salute
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| vi.行礼，致意，问候，放礼炮；vt.向…致意，迎接，赞扬；n.招呼，敬礼，礼炮 | |
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176
cypresses
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| n.柏属植物，柏树( cypress的名词复数 ) | |
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177
verdant
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| adj.翠绿的，青翠的，生疏的，不老练的 | |
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178
prodigal
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|
| adj.浪费的，挥霍的，放荡的 | |
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179
barley
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|
| n.大麦，大麦粒 | |
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180
literally
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| adv.照字面意义，逐字地；确实 | |
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181
scarlet
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| n.深红色，绯红色，红衣；adj.绯红色的 | |
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182
anemone
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| n.海葵 | |
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183
botanist
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| n.植物学家 | |
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184
swelling
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| n.肿胀 | |
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185
mounds
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| 土堆，土丘( mound的名词复数 )； 一大堆 | |
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186
encompassed
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| v.围绕( encompass的过去式和过去分词 )；包围；包含；包括 | |
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187
conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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188
defer
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| vt.推迟，拖延；vi.(to)遵从，听从，服从 | |
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189
lodge
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| v.临时住宿，寄宿，寄存，容纳；n.传达室，小旅馆 | |
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190
monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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191
monk
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| n.和尚，僧侣，修道士 | |
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192
gratuitous
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| adj.无偿的，免费的；无缘无故的，不必要的 | |
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193
unpacking
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| n.取出货物，拆包[箱]v.从（包裹等）中取出（所装的东西），打开行李取出( unpack的现在分词 )；拆包；解除…的负担；吐露（心事等） | |
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194
bustling
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| adj.喧闹的 | |
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195
cylinders
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| n.圆筒( cylinder的名词复数 )；圆柱；汽缸；（尤指用作容器的）圆筒状物 | |
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196
downwards
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| adj./adv.向下的（地），下行的（地） | |
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197
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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198
rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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199
mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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200
prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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201
suite
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| n.一套(家具)；套房；随从人员 | |
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202
humble
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| adj.谦卑的，恭顺的；地位低下的；v.降低，贬低 | |
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203
fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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204
fatigued
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| adj. 疲乏的 | |
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205
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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206
hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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207
courteous
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| adj.彬彬有礼的，客气的 | |
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208
solicitous
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| adj.热切的，挂念的 | |
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209
inquiries
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| n.调查( inquiry的名词复数 )；疑问；探究；打听 | |
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210
astonishment
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| n.惊奇，惊异 | |
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211
mischief
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| n.损害，伤害，危害；恶作剧，捣蛋，胡闹 | |
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212
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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213
modesty
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| n.谦逊，虚心，端庄，稳重，羞怯，朴素 | |
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214
arduous
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| adj.艰苦的，费力的，陡峭的 | |
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215
uncommonly
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| adv. 稀罕(极，非常) | |
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216
disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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217
vaulted
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| adj.拱状的 | |
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218
glimmer
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| v.发出闪烁的微光；n.微光，微弱的闪光 | |
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219
cavern
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| n.洞穴，大山洞 | |
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220
pitchers
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| 大水罐( pitcher的名词复数 ) | |
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221
penetrated
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| adj. 击穿的，鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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222
factotum
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| n.杂役；听差 | |
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223
applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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224
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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225
virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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226
choir
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| n.唱诗班，唱诗班的席位，合唱团，舞蹈团；v.合唱 | |
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227
comely
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| adj.漂亮的，合宜的 | |
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228
minarets
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| n.（清真寺旁由报告祈祷时刻的人使用的）光塔( minaret的名词复数 ) | |
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229
spires
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| n.（教堂的） 塔尖，尖顶( spire的名词复数 ) | |
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230
discord
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| n.不和，意见不合，争论，（音乐）不和谐 | |
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231
melodious
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| adj.旋律美妙的，调子优美的，音乐性的 | |
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232
persuasion
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| n.劝说；说服；持有某种信仰的宗派 | |
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233
softens
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| （使）变软( soften的第三人称单数 )； 缓解打击； 缓和； 安慰 | |
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234
treasury
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| n.宝库；国库，金库；文库 | |
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235
embarked
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| 乘船( embark的过去式和过去分词 )； 装载； 从事 | |
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236
jolted
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| （使）摇动， （使）震惊( jolt的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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237
rattling
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| adj. 格格作响的, 活泼的, 很好的 adv. 极其, 很, 非常 动词rattle的现在分词 | |
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238
rumbling
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| n. 隆隆声, 辘辘声 adj. 隆隆响的 动词rumble的现在分词 | |
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239
minor
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| adj.较小(少)的，较次要的；n.辅修学科；vi.辅修 | |
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240
destitute
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| adj.缺乏的；穷困的 | |
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241
delicacy
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| n.精致，细微，微妙，精良；美味，佳肴 | |
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242
flaring
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| a.火焰摇曳的，过份艳丽的 | |
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243
velvet
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| n.丝绒，天鹅绒；adj.丝绒制的，柔软的 | |
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244
maroon
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| v.困住，使（人）处于孤独无助之境；n.逃亡黑奴；孤立的人；酱紫色，褐红色；adj.酱紫色的，褐红色的 | |
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245
texture
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| n.(织物)质地；(材料)构造；结构；肌理 | |
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246
anemones
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| n.银莲花( anemone的名词复数 )；海葵 | |
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247
denuded
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| adj.[医]变光的，裸露的v.使赤裸( denude的过去式和过去分词 )；剥光覆盖物 | |
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248
circumspect
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| adj.慎重的，谨慎的 | |
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249
consecrated
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| adj.神圣的，被视为神圣的v.把…奉为神圣，给…祝圣( consecrate的过去式和过去分词 )；奉献 | |
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250
desecrated
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| 毁坏或亵渎( desecrate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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251
memorable
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| adj.值得回忆的，难忘的，特别的，显著的 | |
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252
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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253
fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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254
ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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255
penitent
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|
| adj.后悔的；n.后悔者；忏悔者 | |
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256
smote
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| v.猛打，重击，打击( smite的过去式 ) | |
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257
thronged
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| v.成群，挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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258
cavalcades
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| n.骑马队伍，车队( cavalcade的名词复数 ) | |
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259
scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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260
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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261
baggy
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| adj.膨胀如袋的，宽松下垂的 | |
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262
slung
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| 抛( sling的过去式和过去分词 )； 吊挂； 遣送； 押往 | |
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263
clatter
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| v./n.(使)发出连续而清脆的撞击声 | |
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264
cistern
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| n.贮水池 | |
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265
philistine
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| n.庸俗的人；adj.市侩的，庸俗的 | |
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266
entreaty
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| n.恳求，哀求 | |
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267
ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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268
scantily
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| adv.缺乏地；不充足地；吝啬地；狭窄地 | |
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269
profusion
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| n.挥霍；丰富 | |
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270
ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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271
strings
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| n.弦 | |
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272
uncouth
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| adj.无教养的，粗鲁的 | |
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273
bracelets
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| n.手镯，臂镯( bracelet的名词复数 ) | |
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274
rabble
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| n.乌合之众，暴民；下等人 | |
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275
besets
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| v.困扰( beset的第三人称单数 )；不断围攻；镶；嵌 | |
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276
whining
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| n. 抱怨，牢骚 v. 哭诉，发牢骚 | |
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277
theatrical
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| adj.剧场的，演戏的；做戏似的，做作的 | |
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278
ledges
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| n.（墙壁，悬崖等）突出的狭长部分( ledge的名词复数 )；（平窄的）壁架；横档；（尤指）窗台 | |
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279
deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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280
vistas
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| 长条形景色( vista的名词复数 )； 回顾； 展望； （未来可能发生的）一系列情景 | |
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281
glades
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| n.林中空地( glade的名词复数 ) | |
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282
inviting
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| adj.诱人的，引人注目的 | |
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283
perch
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| n.栖木，高位，杆；v.栖息，就位，位于 | |
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284
bosom
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| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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285
mirage
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| n.海市蜃楼，幻景 | |
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286
dodged
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| v.闪躲( dodge的过去式和过去分词 )；回避 | |
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287
exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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288
heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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289
limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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290
crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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291
decrepit
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| adj.衰老的，破旧的 | |
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292
rheumatism
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| n.风湿病 | |
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293
withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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294
writhed
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| （因极度痛苦而）扭动或翻滚( writhe的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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295
shrub
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| n.灌木，灌木丛 | |
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296
hawthorn
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| 山楂 | |
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297
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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298
toll
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| n.过路(桥)费；损失，伤亡人数；v.敲(钟) | |
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299
extremity
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| n.末端，尽头；尽力；终极；极度 | |
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300
inclination
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| n.倾斜；点头；弯腰；斜坡；倾度；倾向；爱好 | |
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301
monkish
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| adj.僧侣的，修道士的，禁欲的 | |
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302
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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303
brook
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| n.小河，溪；v.忍受，容让 | |
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304
vile
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| adj.卑鄙的，可耻的，邪恶的；坏透的 | |
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305
doorway
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| n.门口，(喻)入门；门路，途径 | |
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306
rapacity
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| n.贪婪，贪心，劫掠的欲望 | |
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307
zigzags
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| n.锯齿形的线条、小径等( zigzag的名词复数 )v.弯弯曲曲地走路，曲折地前进( zigzag的第三人称单数 ) | |
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308
caravans
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| （可供居住的）拖车（通常由机动车拖行）( caravan的名词复数 )； 篷车； （穿过沙漠地带的）旅行队（如商队） | |
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309
heralds
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| n.使者( herald的名词复数 )；预报者；预兆；传令官v.预示( herald的第三人称单数 )；宣布（好或重要） | |
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310
attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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311
stunned
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| adj. 震惊的，惊讶的 动词stun的过去式和过去分词 | |
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312
seaport
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| n.海港，港口，港市 | |
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313
rubble
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| n.（一堆）碎石，瓦砾 | |
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314
dressing
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| n.(食物)调料；包扎伤口的用品，敷料 | |
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315
invalid
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| n.病人，伤残人；adj.有病的，伤残的；无效的 | |
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316
harry
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| vt.掠夺，蹂躏，使苦恼 | |
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317
impatience
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| n.不耐烦，急躁 | |
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318
domes
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| n.圆屋顶( dome的名词复数 )；像圆屋顶一样的东西；圆顶体育场 | |
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319
concealing
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的现在分词 ) | |
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320
prettily
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| adv.优美地；可爱地 | |
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321
overflows
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| v.溢出，淹没( overflow的第三人称单数 )；充满；挤满了人；扩展出界，过度延伸 | |
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322
shanty
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| n.小屋，棚屋；船工号子 | |
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323
sordid
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| adj.肮脏的，不干净的，卑鄙的，暗淡的 | |
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324
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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325
gracefully
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| ad.大大方方地；优美地 | |
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326
importunate
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| adj.强求的；纠缠不休的 | |
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327
impudent
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| adj.鲁莽的，卑鄙的，厚颜无耻的 | |
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328
exterior
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| adj.外部的，外在的；表面的 | |
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329
clamorous
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| adj.吵闹的，喧哗的 | |
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330
citadel
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| n.城堡；堡垒；避难所 | |
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331
rambling
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| adj.[建]凌乱的，杂乱的 | |
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332
abominably
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| adv. 可恶地，可恨地，恶劣地 | |
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