I spent a pleasant hour in the kitchen,—an isolated18, smoke-dried room with an earth floor,—endeavoring to warm my feet at the little fires of charcoal19 kindled20 in holes on top of a bank of earth and stone, and watching the pranks21 of this merry and industrious22 family. The little heir amused himself by pounding the orphan, kicking the shins of the boy, and dashing water in the face of the slim girl,—treatment which the servants dared not resent, since the father laughed over it as an exhibition of bravery and vivacity23. Fragrant24 steam came from a pot, in which quail25 were stewing26 for the passengers by the night mail, and each person who appeared in the kitchen, in turn, gave this pot a stir; the lively boy pounded coffee in a big mortar27, put charcoal on the fire, had a tussle28 with the heir, threw a handspring, doing nothing a minute at a time; the orphan slid in with a bucket of water, slopping it in all directions; the heir set up a howl and kicked his father because he was not allowed to kick the orphan any more; the little wife came in like a breeze, whisking everybody one side, and sympathized with dear little Hobby, whose cruel and ugly papa was holding the love from barking his father's shins. You do not often see a family that enjoys itself so much as this.
It was late next morning when we tore ourselves from this enchanting29 household, and went at a good pace over the fertile plain, straight towards Anti-Lebanon, having a glimpse of the snow of Mount Hermon,—a long ridge30 peering over the hills to the? southeast, and crossing in turn the Litany and the deep Anjar, which bursts forth31 from a single fountain about a mile to the north. On our left we saw some remains32 of what was once a capital city, Chalcis, of unknown origin, but an old city before it was possessed33 by the Ptolemies, or by Mark Antony, and once the luxurious34 residence of the Herod family. At Medjel, a village scattered35 at the foot of small tells rising in the plain, we turned into the hills, leaving unvisited a conspicuous36 Roman temple on a peak above the town. The road winds gradually up a wady. As we left the plain, and looked back across it to Lebanon, the colors of Buk?'a and the mountain gave us a new surprise; they were brilliant and yet soft, as gay and splendid as the rocks of the Yellowstone, and yet exquisitely37 blended as in a Persian rug.
The hill-country was almost uninhabited; except the stations and an occasional Bedaween camp there was small sign of occupation; the ground was uncultivated; peasants in rags were grubbing up the roots of cedars38 for fuel. We met Druses with trains of mules39, Moslems with camels and mules, and long processions of white-topped wagons,—like the Western "prairie schooner"—drawn41 each by three mules tandem42. Thirty and forty of these freight vehicles travel in company, and we were continually meeting or passing them; their number is an indication of the large trade that Damascus has with Beyrout and the Mediterranean43. There is plenty of color in the people and in their costume. We were told that we could distinguish the Druses by their furtive44 and bad countenances45; but for this information I should not have seen that they differed much from the Maronites; but I endeavored to see the treacherous46 villain47 in them. I have noticed in Syria that the Catholic travellers have a good opinion of the Maronites and hate the Druses, that the American residents think little of the Maronites, and that the English have a lenient48 side for the Druses. The Moslems consistently despise all of them. The Druse has been a puzzle. There are the same horrible stories current about him that were believed of the early Christians49; the Moslem40 believes that infants are slain50 and eaten in his midnight assemblies, and that once a year the Druse community meets in a cavern52 at midnight, the lights are extinguished, and the sexes mingling53 by chance in the license54 of darkness choose companions for the year. But the Druse creed55, long a secret, is now known; they are the disciples56 of H鈑im, a Khalif of the Fatimite dynasty; they believe in the unity51 of God and his latest manifestation57 in Hakim; they are as much a political as a religious society; they are accomplished58 hypocrites, cunning in plotting and bold in action; they profess59 to possess "the truth," and having this, they are indifferent to externals, and are willing to be Moslems with the Moslems and Christians with the Christians, while inwardly feeling a contempt for both. They are the most supercilious60 of all the Eastern sects61. What they are about to do is always the subject of anxiety in the Lebanon regions.
At the stations of the road we found usually a wretched family or two dwelling62 in a shanty, half stable and half caf?, always a woman with a baby in her arms, and the superabundant fountains for nourishing it displayed to all the world; generally some slatternly girls, and groups of rough muleteers and drivers smoking. At one, I remember a Jew who sold antique gems63, rings, and coins, with a shocking face, which not only suggested the first fall of his race, but all the advantages he has since taken of his innocent fellows, by reason of his preoccupation of his position of knowledge and depravity.
We made always, except in the steep ascents64, about ten miles an hour. The management of the route is the perfection of French system and bureaucracy. We travel with a way-bill of numbered details, as if we were a royal mail. At every station we change one horse, so that we always have a fresh animal. The way-bill is at every station signed by the agent, and the minute of arrival and departure exactly noted65; each horse has its number, and the number of the one taken and the one left is entered. All is life and promptness at the stations; changes are quickly made. The way-bill would show the company the exact time between stations; but I noticed that our driver continually set his watch backwards66 and forwards, and I found that he and the dragoman had a private understanding to conceal67 our delays for lunch, for traffic with Jews, or for the enjoyment68 of scenery.
After we had crossed the summit of the first ridge we dashed down the gate of a magnificent canyon69, the rocks heaved up in perpendicular70 strata71, overhanging, craggy, crumbled72, wild. We crossed then a dreary73 and nearly arid74 basin; climbed, by curves and zigzags75, another ridge, and then went rapidly down until we struck the wild and narrow gorge of the sacred Abana. Immediately luxuriant vegetable life began. The air was sweet with the blossoms of the mish-mish (apricot), and splendid walnuts76 and poplars overshadowed us. The river, swollen77 and rushing amid the trees on its hanks, was frightfully rapid. The valley winds sharply, and gives room only for the river and the road, and sometimes only for one of them. Sometimes the river is taken out of its bed and carried along one bank or the other; sometimes the road crosses it, and again pursues its way between its divided streams. We were excited by its rush and volume, and by the rich vegetation along its sides. We came to fantastic Saracenic country-seats, to arcaded78 and latticed houses set high up over the river, to evidences of wealth and of proximity79 to a great city.
Suddenly, for we seemed to have become a part of the rushing torrent80 and to share its rapidity, we burst out of the gorge, and saw the river, overpassing its narrow banks, flowing straight on before us, and beyond, on a level, the minarets81 and domes82 of Damascus! All along the river, on both banks of it, and along the high wall by the roadside, were crowds of men in Turkish costume, of women in pure white, of Arabs sitting quietly by the stream smoking the narghileh, squatting83 in rows along the wall and along the water, all pulling at the water-pipe. There were tents and booths erected84 by the river. In a further reach of it men and boys were bathing. Hanks and groups of veiled women and children crouched85 on the damp soil close to the flood, or sat immovable on some sandy point. It is a delicious holiday for two or three women to sit the livelong day by water, running or stagnant86, to sit there with their veils drawn over their heads, as rooted as water-plants, and as inanimate as bags of flour. It was a striking Oriental picture, played on by the sun, enlivened by the swift current, which dashes full into the city.
As we spun87 on, the crowd thickened,—soldiers, grave Turks on caparisoned horses or white donkeys, Jews, blacks, Persians. We crossed a trembling bridge, and rattled88 into town over stony89 pavements, forced our way with difficulty into streets narrow and broken by sharp turns, the carriage-wheels scarcely missing men and children stretched on the ground, who refused, on the theory of their occupation of the soil prior to the invention of wheels, to draw in even a leg; and, in a confused whirl of novel sights and discordant90 yells, barks, and objurgations, we came to Dimitri's hotel. The carriage stopped in the narrow street; a small door in the wall, a couple of feet above the pavement, opened, and we stepped through into a little court occupied by a fountain and an orange-tree loaded with golden fruit. Thence we passed into a large court, the centre of the hotel, where the Abana pours a generous supply into a vast marble basin, and trees and shrubs91 offer shelter to singing birds. About us was a wilderness92 of balconies, staircases, and corridors, the sun flooding it all; and Dimitri himself, sleek93, hospitable94, stood bowing, in a red fez, silk gown, and long gold chain.
点击收听单词发音
1 shanty | |
n.小屋,棚屋;船工号子 | |
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2 grove | |
n.林子,小树林,园林 | |
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3 rustles | |
n.发出沙沙的声音( rustle的名词复数 )v.发出沙沙的声音( rustle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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4 gorge | |
n.咽喉,胃,暴食,山峡;v.塞饱,狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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5 fluster | |
adj.慌乱,狼狈,混乱,激动 | |
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6 chronic | |
adj.(疾病)长期未愈的,慢性的;极坏的 | |
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7 vivacious | |
adj.活泼的,快活的 | |
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8 tyrant | |
n.暴君,专制的君主,残暴的人 | |
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9 orphan | |
n.孤儿;adj.无父母的 | |
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10 orphans | |
孤儿( orphan的名词复数 ) | |
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11 lark | |
n.云雀,百灵鸟;n.嬉戏,玩笑;vi.嬉戏 | |
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12 giggle | |
n.痴笑,咯咯地笑;v.咯咯地笑着说 | |
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13 overflowing | |
n. 溢出物,溢流 adj. 充沛的,充满的 动词overflow的现在分词形式 | |
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14 sputtered | |
v.唾沫飞溅( sputter的过去式和过去分词 );发劈啪声;喷出;飞溅出 | |
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15 magpie | |
n.喜欢收藏物品的人,喜鹊,饶舌者 | |
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16 contagious | |
adj.传染性的,有感染力的 | |
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17 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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18 isolated | |
adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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19 charcoal | |
n.炭,木炭,生物炭 | |
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20 kindled | |
(使某物)燃烧,着火( kindle的过去式和过去分词 ); 激起(感情等); 发亮,放光 | |
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21 pranks | |
n.玩笑,恶作剧( prank的名词复数 ) | |
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22 industrious | |
adj.勤劳的,刻苦的,奋发的 | |
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23 vivacity | |
n.快活,活泼,精神充沛 | |
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24 fragrant | |
adj.芬香的,馥郁的,愉快的 | |
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25 quail | |
n.鹌鹑;vi.畏惧,颤抖 | |
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26 stewing | |
炖 | |
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27 mortar | |
n.灰浆,灰泥;迫击炮;v.把…用灰浆涂接合 | |
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28 tussle | |
n.&v.扭打,搏斗,争辩 | |
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29 enchanting | |
a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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30 ridge | |
n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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31 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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32 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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33 possessed | |
adj.疯狂的;拥有的,占有的 | |
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34 luxurious | |
adj.精美而昂贵的;豪华的 | |
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35 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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36 conspicuous | |
adj.明眼的,惹人注目的;炫耀的,摆阔气的 | |
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37 exquisitely | |
adv.精致地;强烈地;剧烈地;异常地 | |
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38 cedars | |
雪松,西洋杉( cedar的名词复数 ) | |
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39 mules | |
骡( mule的名词复数 ); 拖鞋; 顽固的人; 越境运毒者 | |
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40 Moslem | |
n.回教徒,穆罕默德信徒;adj.回教徒的,回教的 | |
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41 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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42 tandem | |
n.同时发生;配合;adv.一个跟着一个地;纵排地;adj.(两匹马)前后纵列的 | |
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43 Mediterranean | |
adj.地中海的;地中海沿岸的 | |
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44 furtive | |
adj.鬼鬼崇崇的,偷偷摸摸的 | |
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45 countenances | |
n.面容( countenance的名词复数 );表情;镇静;道义支持 | |
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46 treacherous | |
adj.不可靠的,有暗藏的危险的;adj.背叛的,背信弃义的 | |
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47 villain | |
n.反派演员,反面人物;恶棍;问题的起因 | |
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48 lenient | |
adj.宽大的,仁慈的 | |
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49 Christians | |
n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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50 slain | |
杀死,宰杀,杀戮( slay的过去分词 ); (slay的过去分词) | |
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51 unity | |
n.团结,联合,统一;和睦,协调 | |
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52 cavern | |
n.洞穴,大山洞 | |
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53 mingling | |
adj.混合的 | |
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54 license | |
n.执照,许可证,特许;v.许可,特许 | |
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55 creed | |
n.信条;信念,纲领 | |
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56 disciples | |
n.信徒( disciple的名词复数 );门徒;耶稣的信徒;(尤指)耶稣十二门徒之一 | |
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57 manifestation | |
n.表现形式;表明;现象 | |
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58 accomplished | |
adj.有才艺的;有造诣的;达到了的 | |
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59 profess | |
v.声称,冒称,以...为业,正式接受入教,表明信仰 | |
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60 supercilious | |
adj.目中无人的,高傲的;adv.高傲地;n.高傲 | |
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61 sects | |
n.宗派,教派( sect的名词复数 ) | |
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62 dwelling | |
n.住宅,住所,寓所 | |
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63 gems | |
growth; economy; management; and customer satisfaction 增长 | |
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64 ascents | |
n.上升( ascent的名词复数 );(身份、地位等的)提高;上坡路;攀登 | |
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65 noted | |
adj.著名的,知名的 | |
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66 backwards | |
adv.往回地,向原处,倒,相反,前后倒置地 | |
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67 conceal | |
v.隐藏,隐瞒,隐蔽 | |
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68 enjoyment | |
n.乐趣;享有;享用 | |
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69 canyon | |
n.峡谷,溪谷 | |
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70 perpendicular | |
adj.垂直的,直立的;n.垂直线,垂直的位置 | |
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71 strata | |
n.地层(复数);社会阶层 | |
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72 crumbled | |
(把…)弄碎, (使)碎成细屑( crumble的过去式和过去分词 ); 衰落; 坍塌; 损坏 | |
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73 dreary | |
adj.令人沮丧的,沉闷的,单调乏味的 | |
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74 arid | |
adj.干旱的;(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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75 zigzags | |
n.锯齿形的线条、小径等( zigzag的名词复数 )v.弯弯曲曲地走路,曲折地前进( zigzag的第三人称单数 ) | |
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76 walnuts | |
胡桃(树)( walnut的名词复数 ); 胡桃木 | |
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77 swollen | |
adj.肿大的,水涨的;v.使变大,肿胀 | |
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78 arcaded | |
adj.成为拱廊街道的,有列拱的 | |
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79 proximity | |
n.接近,邻近 | |
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80 torrent | |
n.激流,洪流;爆发,(话语等的)连发 | |
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81 minarets | |
n.(清真寺旁由报告祈祷时刻的人使用的)光塔( minaret的名词复数 ) | |
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82 domes | |
n.圆屋顶( dome的名词复数 );像圆屋顶一样的东西;圆顶体育场 | |
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83 squatting | |
v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的现在分词 );非法擅自占用(土地或房屋);为获得其所有权;而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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84 ERECTED | |
adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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85 crouched | |
v.屈膝,蹲伏( crouch的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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86 stagnant | |
adj.不流动的,停滞的,不景气的 | |
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87 spun | |
v.纺,杜撰,急转身 | |
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88 rattled | |
慌乱的,恼火的 | |
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89 stony | |
adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
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90 discordant | |
adj.不调和的 | |
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91 shrubs | |
灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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92 wilderness | |
n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等,荒漠 | |
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93 sleek | |
adj.光滑的,井然有序的;v.使光滑,梳拢 | |
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94 hospitable | |
adj.好客的;宽容的;有利的,适宜的 | |
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