The day was spent in last visits to the bazaars4, in packing and leave-takings, and the passage of the custom-house, for the government encourages trade by an export as well as an import duty. I did not see any of the officials, but Abd-el-Atti, who had charge of shipping5 our baggage, reported that the eyes of the customs inspector6 were each just the size of a five-franc piece. Chief among our regrets at setting our faces toward Europe was the necessity of parting with Abd-el-Atti and Ahmed; the former had been our faithful dragoman and daily companion for five months, and we had not yet exhausted7 his adventures nor his stores of Oriental humor; and we could not expect to find elsewhere a character like Ahmed, a person so shrewd and obliging, and of such amusing vivacity8. At four o'clock we embarked9 upon an Italian steamer for Salonica and Athens, a four days' voyage. At the last moment Abd-el-Atti would have gone with us upon the least encouragement, but we had no further need of dragoman or interpreter, and the old man sadly descended10 the ladder to his boat. I can see him yet, his red fez in the stern of the caique, waving his large silk handkerchief, and slowly rowing back to Pera,—a melancholy11 figure.
As we steamed out of the harbor we enjoyed the view we had missed on entering: the Seraglio Point where blind old Dandolo ran his galley13 aground and leaped on shore to the assault; the shore of Chalcedon; the seven towers and the old wall behind Stamboul, which Persians, Arabs, Scythians, and Latins have stormed; the long sweeping14 coast and its minarets15; the Princes' Islands and Mt. Olympus,—all this in a setting sun was superb; and we said, "There is not its equal in the world." And the evening was more magnificent,—a moon nearly full, a sweet and rosy16 light on the smooth water, which was at first azure blue, and then pearly gray and glowing like an amethyst17.
Smoothly18 sailing all night, we came at sunrise to the entrance of the Dardanelles, and stopped for a couple of hours at Chanak Kalessi, before the guns of the Castle of Asia. The wide-awake traders immediately swarmed19 on board with their barbarous pottery20, and with trays of cooked fish, onions, and bread for the deck passengers. The latter were mostly Greeks, and men in the costume which one sees still in the islands and the Asiatic coasts, but very seldom on the Grecian mainland; it consists of baggy21 trousers, close at the ankles, a shawl about the waist, an embroidered22 jacket usually of sober color, and, the most prized part of their possessions, an arsenal23 of pistols and knives in huge leathern holsters, with a heavy leathern flap, worn in front. Most of them wore a small red fez, the hair cut close in front and falling long behind the ears. They are light in complexion24, not tall, rather stout25, and without beauty. Though their dress is picturesque26 in plan, it is usually very dirty, ragged27, and, the last confession28 of poverty, patched. They were all armed like pirates; and when we stopped a cracking fusillade along the deck suggested a mutiny; but it was only a precautionary measure of the captain, who compelled them to discharge their pistols into the water and then took them from them.
Passing out of the strait we saw the Rabbit Islands and Tene-dos, and caught a glimpse of the Plain of Troy about as misty29 as its mythic history; and then turned west between Imbros and Lemnos, on whose bold eastern rock once blazed one of the signal-fires which telegraphed the fall of Troy to Clytemnestra. The first women of Lemnos were altogether beautiful, but they had some peculiarities30 which did not recommend them to their contemporaries, and indeed their husbands were accustomed occasionally to hoist32 sail and bask33 in the smiles of the damsels of the Thracian coast. The Lemnian women, to avoid any legal difficulties, such as arise nowadays when a woman asserts her right to slay34 her partner, killed all their husbands, and set up an Amazonian state which they maintained with pride and splendor35, permitting no man to set foot on the island. In time this absolute freedom became a little tedious, and when the Argonauts came that way, the women advanced to meet the heroes with garlands, and brought them wine and food. This conduct pleased the Argonauts, who made Lemnos their headquarters and celebrated36 there many a festive37 combat. Their descendants, the Miny?, were afterwards overcome by the Pelasgians, from Attica, who, remembering with regret the beautiful girls of their home, returned and brought back with them the willing and the lovely. But the children of the Attic38 women took on airs over their superior birth, which the Pelasgian women resented, and the latter finally removed all cause of dispute by murdering all the mothers of Attica and their offspring. These events gave the ladies of Lemnos a formidable reputation in the ancient world, and furnish an illustration of what society would be without the refining and temperate39 influence of man.
To the northward40 lifted itself the bare back of Samothrace, and beyond the dim outline of Thasos, ancient gold-island, the home of the poet Archilochus, one of the few Grecian islands which still retains something of its pristine41 luxuriance of vegetation, where the songs of innumerable nightingales invite to its deep, flowery valleys. Beyond Thasos is the Thracian coast and Mt. Pangaus, and at the foot of it Philippi, the Macedonian town where republican Rome fought its last battle, where Cassius leaned upon his sword-point, believing everything lost. Brutus transported the body of his comrade to Thasos and raised for him a funeral pyre; and twenty days later, on the same field, met again that spectre of death which had summoned him to Philippi. It was only eleven years after this victory of the Imperial power that a greater triumph was won at Philippi, when Paul and Silas, cast into prison, sang praises unto God at midnight, and an earthquake shook the house and opened the prison doors.
In the afternoon we came in sight of snowy Mt. Athos, an almost perpendicular42 limestone43 rock, rising nearly six thousand four hundred feet out of the sea. The slender promontory44 which this magnificent mountain terminates is forty miles long and has only an average breadth of four miles. The ancient canal of Xerxes quite severed45 it from the mainland. The peninsula, level at the canal, is a jagged stretch of mountains (seamed by chasms), which rise a thousand, two thousand, four thousand feet, and at last front the sea with the sublime46 peak of Athos, the site of the most conspicuous47 beacon48-fire of Agamemnon. The entire promontory is, and has been since the time of Constantine, ecclesiastic49 ground; every mountain and valley has its convent; besides the twenty great monasteries50 are many pious51 retreats. All the sects52 of the Greek church are here represented; the communities pay a tribute to the Sultan, but the government is in the hands of four presidents, chosen by the synod, which holds weekly sessions and takes the presidents, yearly, from the monasteries in rotation53. Since their foundation these religious houses have maintained against Christians55 and Saracens an almost complete independence, and preserved in their primitive56 simplicity57 the manners and usages of the earliest foundations. Here, as nowhere else in Europe or Asia, can one behold58 the architecture, the dress, the habits of the Middle Ages. The good devotees have been able to keep themselves thus in the darkness and simplicity of the past by a rigorous exclusion59 of the sex always impatient of monotony, to which all the changes of the world are due. No woman, from the beginning till now, has ever been permitted to set foot on the peninsula. Nor is this all; no female animal is suffered on the holy mountain, not even a hen. I suppose, though I do not know, that the monks60 have an inspector of eggs, whose inherited instincts of aversion to the feminine gender61 enable him to detect and reject all those in which lurk62 the dangerous sex. Few of the monks eat meat, half the days of the year are fast days, they practise occasionally abstinence from food for two or three days, reducing their pulses to the feeblest beating, and subduing63 their bodies to a point that destroys their value even as spiritual tabernacles. The united community is permitted to keep a guard of fifty Christian54 soldiers, and the only Moslem64 on the island is the solitary65 Turkish officer who represents the Sultan; his position cannot be one generally coveted66 by the Turks, since the society of women is absolutely denied him. The libraries of Mt. Athos are full of unarranged manuscripts, which are probably mainly filled with the theologic rubbish of the controversial ages, and can scarcely be expected to yield again anything so valuable as the Tischendorf Scriptures67.
At sunset we were close under Mt. Athos, and could distinguish the buildings of the Laura Convent, amid the woods beneath the frowning cliff. And now was produced the apparition68 of a sunset, with this towering mountain cone69 for a centre-piece, that surpassed all our experience and imagination. The sea was like satin for smoothness, absolutely waveless, and shone with the colors of changeable silk, blue, green, pink, and amethyst. Heavy clouds gathered about the sun, and from behind them he exhibited burning spectacles, magnificent fireworks, vast shadow-pictures, scarlet70 cities, and gigantic figures stalking across the sky. From one crater71 of embers he shot up a fan-like flame that spread to the zenith and was reflected on the water. His rays lay along the sea in pink, and the water had the sheen of iridescent72 glass. The whole sea for leagues was like this; even Lemnos and Samothrace lay in a dim pink and purple light in the east. There were vast clouds in huge walls, with towers and battlements, and in all fantastic shapes,—one a gigantic cat with a preternatural tail, a cat of doom73 four degrees long. All this was piled about Mt. Athos, with its sharp summit of snow, its dark sides of rock.
It is a pity that the sounding and somewhat sacred name of Thessalonica has been abbreviated74 to Salonica; it might better have reverted75 to its ancient name of Therma, which distinguished76 the Macedonian capital up to the time of Alexander. In the early morning we were lying before the city, and were told that we should stay till midnight, waiting for the mail. From whence a mail was expected I do not know; the traveller who sails these seas with a cargo77 of ancient history resents in these classic localities such attempts to imitate modern fashions. Were the Dardanians or the Mesians to send us letters in a leathern bag? We were prepared for a summons from Calo-John, at the head of his wild barbarians78, to surrender the city; and we should have liked to see Boniface, Marquis of Montferrat and King of Thessalonica, issue from the fortress79 above the town, the shields and lances of his little band of knights80 shining in the sun, and answer in person the insolent81 demand. We were prepared to see the troop return, having left the head of Boniface in the possession of Calo-John; and if our captain had told us that the steamer would wait to attend the funeral of the Bulgarian chief himself, which occurred not long after the encounter with Boniface, we should have thought it natural.
The city lies on a fine bay, and presents an attractive appearance from the harbor, rising up the hill in the form of an amphitheatre. On all sides, except the sea, ancient walls surround it, fortified82 at the angles by large round towers and crowned in the centre, on the hill, by a respectable citadel83. I suppose that portions of these walls are of Hellenic and perhaps Pelasgic date, but the most are probably of the time of the Latin crusaders' occupation, patched and repaired by Saracens and Turks. We had come to Thessalonica on St. Paul's account, not expecting to see much that would excite us, and we were not disappointed. When we went ashore84 we found ourselves in a city of perhaps sixty thousand inhabitants, commonplace in aspect, although its bazaars are well filled with European goods, and a fair display of Oriental stuffs and antiquities85, and animated86 by considerable briskness87 of trade. I presume there are more Jews here than there were in Paul's time, but Turks and Greeks, in nearly equal numbers, form the bulk of the population.
In modern Salonica there is not much respect for pagan antiquities, and one sees only the usual fragments of columns and sculptures worked into walls or incorporated in Christian churches. But those curious in early Byzantine architecture will find more to interest them here than in any place in the world except Constantinople. We spent the day wandering about the city, under the guidance of a young Jew, who was without either prejudices or information. On our way to the Mosque88 of St. Sophia, we passed through the quarter of the Jews, which is much cleaner than is usual with them. These are the descendants of Spanish Jews, who were expelled by Isabella, and they still retain, in a corrupt89 form, the language of Spain. In the doors and windows were many pretty Jewesses; banishment91 and vicissitude92 appear to agree with this elastic93 race, for in all the countries of Europe Jewish women develop more beauty in form and feature than in Palestine. We saw here and in other parts of the city a novel head-dress, which may commend itself to America in the revolutions of fashion. A great mass of hair, real or assumed, was gathered into a long slender green bag, which hung down the back and was terminated by a heavy fringe of silver. Otherwise, the dress of the Jewish women does not differ much from that of the men; the latter wear a fez or turban, and a tunic94 which reaches to the ankles, and is bound about the waist by a gay sash or shawl.
The Mosque of St. Sophia, once a church, and copied in its proportions and style from its namesake in Constantinople, is retired95, in a delightful96 court, shaded by gigantic trees and cheered by a fountain. So peaceful a spot we had not seen in many a day; birds sang in the trees without disturbing the calm of the meditative97 pilgrim. In the portico98 and also in the interior are noble columns of marble and verd-antique, and in the dome99 is a wonderfully quaint100 mosaic101 of the Transfiguration. We were shown also a magnificent pulpit of the latter beautiful stone cut from a solid block, in which it is said St. Paul preached. As the Apostle, according to his custom, reasoned with the people out of the Scriptures in a synagogue, and this church was not built for centuries after his visit, the statement needs confirmation102; but pious ingenuity103 suggests that the pulpit stood in a subterranean104 church underneath105 this. I should like to believe that Paul sanctified this very spot with his presence; but there is little in its quiet seclusion106 to remind one of him who had the reputation when he was in Thessalonica of one of those who turn the world upside down. Paul had a great affection for the brethren of this city, in spite of his rough usage here, for he mingles107 few reproaches in his fervent108 commendations of their faith, and comforts them with the assurance of a speedy release from the troubles of this world, and the certainty that while they are yet alive they will be caught up into the clouds to meet the Lord in the air. Happily the Apostle could not pierce the future and see the dissensions, the schisms109, the corruptions110 and calamities111 of the Church in the succeeding centuries, nor know that near this spot, in the Imperial Hippodrome, the sedition112 of the citizens would one day be punished by the massacre113 of ninety thousand,—one of the few acts of inhumanity which stains the clemency114 and the great name of Theodosius. And it would have passed even the belief of the Apostle to the Gentiles could he have foreseen that, in eighteen centuries, this pulpit would be exhibited to curious strangers from a distant part of the globe, of which he never heard, where the doctrines115 of Paul are the bulwark116 of the Church and the stamina117 of the government, by a descendant of Abraham who confessed that he did not know who Paul was.
The oldest church in the city is now the Mosque of St. George, built about the year 400, if indeed it was not transformed from a heathen temple; its form is that of the Roman Pantheon. The dome was once covered with splendid mosaics118; enough remains119 of the architectural designs, the brilliant peacocks and bright blue birds, to show what the ancient beauty was, but the walls of the mosque are white and barn-like. Religions inherit each other's edifices120 in the East without shame, and we found in the Mosque of Eske Djuma the remains of a temple of Venus, and columns of ancient Grecian work worthy121 of the best days of Athens. The most perfect basilica is now the Mosque of St. Demetrius (a name sacred to the Greeks), which contains his tomb. It is a five-aisled basilica; about the gallery, over the pillars of the centre aisle122, are some fine mosaics of marble, beautiful in design and color. The Moslems have spoiled the exquisite123 capitals of the pillars by painting them, and have destroyed the effect of the aisles124 by twisting the pulpit and prayer-niche away from the apse, in the direction of Mecca. We noticed, however, a relaxation125 of bigotry126 at all these mosques127: we were permitted to enter without taking off our shoes; and, besides the figures of Christian art left in the mosaics, we saw some Moslem pictures, among them rude paintings of the holy city Mecca.
On our way to the citadel we stopped to look at the Arch of Constantine before the Gate of Cassander,—a shabby ruin, with four courses of defaced figures, carved in marble, and representing the battles and triumphs of a Roman general. Fortunately for the reader we did not visit all the thirty-seven churches of the city; but we made the acquaintance in a Greek church, which is adorned128 with quaint Byzantine paintings, of St. Palema, who lies in public repose129, in a coffin130 of exquisite silver filigree-work, while his skull131 is enclosed in solid silver and set with rubies132 and emeralds. This may please St. Palema, but death is never so ghastly as when it is adorned with jewelry133 that becomes cheap in its presence.
The view from the citadel, which embraces the Gulf134 of Salonica and Mt. Olympus, the veritable heaven of the Grecian pantheon, and Mt. Ossa and Mt. Pelion, piercing the blue with their snow-summits, is grand enough to repay the ascent135; and there is a noble walk along the wall above the town. In making my roundabout way through modern streets, back to the bazaars, I encountered a number of negro women, pure Africans, who had the air and carriage of the aristocracy of the place; they rejoiced in the gay attire136 which the natives of the South love, and their fine figures and independent bearing did not speak of servitude.
This Thessalonica was doubtless a healthful and attractive place at the time Cicero chose to pass a portion of his exile here, but it has now a bad reputation for malaria137, which extends to all the gulf,—the malaria seems everywhere to have been one of the consequences of the fall of the Roman Empire. The handbook recommends the locality for its good "shooting"; but if there is any part of the Old World that needs rest from arms, I think it is this highway of ancient and modern conquerors138 and invaders139.
In the evening, when the lights of the town and the shore were reflected in the water, and a full moon hung in the sky, we did not regret our delay. The gay Thessalonians, ignorant of the Epistles, were rowing about the harbor, circling round and round the steamer, beating the darabouka drum, and singing in that nasal whine140 which passes for music all over the East. And, indeed, on such a night it is not without its effect upon a sentimental141 mind.
At early light of a cloudless morning we were going easily down the Gulf of Therma or Salonica, having upon our right the Pierian plain; and I tried to distinguish the two mounds142 which mark the place of the great battle near Pydna, one hundred and sixty-eight years before Christ, between 苖ilius Paulus and King Perseus, which gave Macedonia to the Roman Empire. Beyond, almost ten thousand feet in the air, towered Olympus, upon whose "broad" summit Homer displays the ethereal palaces and inaccessible143 abode144 of the Grecian gods. Shaggy forests still clothe its sides, but snow now, and for the greater part of the year, covers the wide surface of the height, which is a sterile145, light-colored rock. The gods did not want snow to cool the nectar at their banquets. This is the very centre of the mythologie world; there between Olympus and Ossa is the Yale of Tempe, where the Peneus, breaking through a narrow gorge146 fringed with the sacred laurel, reaches the gulf, south of ancient Heracleum. Into this charming but secluded147 retreat the gods and goddesses, weary of the icy air, or the Pumblechookian deportment of the court of Olympian Jove, descended to pass the sunny hours with the youths and maidens148 of mortal mould; through this defile149 marks of chariot-wheels still attest150 the passages of armies which flowed either way, in invasion or retreat; and here Pompey, after a ride of forty miles from the fatal field of Pharsalia, quenched151 his thirst. Did the Greeks really believe that the gods dwelt on this mountain in clouds and snow? Did Baldwin II. believe that he sold, and Louis IX. of France that he bought, for ten thousand marks of silver, at Constantinople, in the thirteenth century, the veritable crown of thorns that the Saviour152 wore in the judgment-hall of Pilate?
At six o'clock the Cape1 of Posilio was on our left, we were sinking Olympus in the white haze153 of morning, Ossa, in its huge silver bulk, was near us, and Pelion stretched its long white back below. The sharp cone of Ossa might well ride upon the extended back of Pelion, and it seems a pity that the Titans did not succeed in their attempt. We were leaving, and looking our last on the Thracian coasts, once rimmed154 from Mt. Athos to the Bosphorus with a wreath of prosperous cities. What must once have been the splendor of the 苂ean Sea and its islands, when every island was the seat of a vigorous state, and every harbor the site of a commercial town which sent forth155 adventurous156 galleys157 upon any errand of trade or conquest! Since the fall of Constantinople, these coasts and islands have been stripped and neglected by Turkish avarice158 and improvidence159, and perhaps their naked aspect is attributable more to the last owners than to all the preceding possessors; it remained for the Turk to exhaust Nature herself, and to accomplish that ruin, that destruction of peoples, which certainly not the Athenian, the Roman, or the Macedonian accomplished160, to destroy that which survived the contemptible161 Byzantines and escaped the net of the pillaging162 Christian crusaders. Yet it needs only repose, the confidence of the protection of industry, and a spirit of toleration, which the Greeks must learn as well as the Turks, that the traveller in the beginning of the next century may behold in the Archipelago the paradise of the world.
We sailed along by the peninsula of Magnesia, which separates the 苂ean from the Bay of Pagas鎢s, and hinders us from seeing the plains of Thessaly, where were trained the famous cavalry163, the perfect union of horse and man that gave rise to the fable164 of centaurs165; the same conception of double prowess which our own early settlers exaggerated in the notion that the Kentuckian was half horse and half alligator166. Just before we entered the group of lovely Sporades, we looked down the long narrow inlet to the Bay of Maliacus and saw the sharp snow-peaks of Mt. OEta, at the foot of which are the marsh167 and hot springs of Thermopylae. We passed between Skiathos and Skopelos,—steep, rocky islands, well wooded and enlivened with villages perched on the hillsides, and both draped in lovely color. In the strait between Skiathos and Magnesia the Greek vessels168 made a stand against the Persians until the defeat at Thermopylae compelled a retreat to Salamis. The monks of the Middle Ages, who had an eye for a fertile land, covered the little island with monasteries, of which one only now remains. Its few inhabitants are chiefly sailors, and to-day it would be wholly without fame were it not for the beauty of its women. Skopelos, which is larger, has a population of over six thousand,—industrious169 people who cultivate the olive and produce a good red wine, that they export in their own vessels.
Nearly all day we sailed outside and along Euboea; and the snow dusting its high peaks and lonely ravines was a not unwelcome sight, for the day was warm, oppressively so even at sea. All the elements lay in a languid truce170. Before it was hidden by Skopelos, Mt. Athos again asserted its lordship over these seas, more gigantic than when we were close to it, the sun striking the snow on its face (it might be the Whiteface of the Adirondacks, except that it is piled up more like the Matterhorn), while the base, bathed in a silver light, was indistinguishable from the silver water out of which it rose. The islands were all purple, the shores silver, and the sea around us deeply azure. What delicious color!
Perhaps it was better to coast along the Euboean land and among the Sporades, clothed in our minds with the historic hues171 which the atmosphere reproduced to our senses, than to break the dream by landing, to find only broken fragments where cities once were, and a handful of fishermen or shepherds the only inheritors of the homes of heroes. We should find nothing on Ikos, except rabbits and a hundred or two of fishers, perhaps not even the grave of Peleus, the father of Achilles; and the dozen little rocky islets near, which some giant in sportive mood may have tossed into the waves, would altogether scarcely keep from famine a small flock of industrious sheep. Skyros, however, has not forgotten its ancient fertility; the well-watered valleys, overlooked by bold mountains and rocky peaks (upon one of which stood "the lofty Skyros" of Homer's song) still bear corn and wine, the fig12 and the olive, the orange and the lemon, as in the days when Achilles, in woman's apparel, was hidden among the maidens in the gardens of King Lycomedes. The mountains are clothed with oaks, beeches172, firs, and plane-trees. Athens had a peculiar31 affection for Skyros, for it was there that Cymon found the bones of Theseus, and transported them thence to the temple of the hero, where they were deposited with splendid obsequies, 苨chylus and Sophocles adding to the festivities the friendly rivalry173 of a dramatic contest. In those days everything was for the state and nothing for the man; and naturally—such is the fruit of self-abnegation—the state was made immortal174 by the genius of its men.
Of the three proud flagstaffs erected175 in front of St. Mark's, one, for a long time, bore the banner of Euboea, or Negropont, symbol of the Venetian sovereignty for nearly three centuries over this island, which for four centuries thereafter was to be cursed by the ascendency of the crescent. From the outer shore one can form little notion of the extraordinary fertility of this land, and we almost regretted that a rough sea had not driven us to take the inner passage, by Rootia and through the narrow Euripus, where the Venetian-built town and the Lion of St. Mark occupy and guard the site of ancient Chalkis. The Turks made the name of Negropont odious176 to the world, but with the restoration of the Grecian nationality the ancient name is restored, and slowly, Euboea, spoiled by the Persians, trampled177 by Macedonians and Romans, neglected by Justinian (the depopulator of the Eastern Empire), drained by the Venetians, blighted178 by the Osmanlis, is beginning to attract the attention of capital and travel, by its unequalled fertility and its almost unequalled scenery.
Romance, mythology179, and history start out of the waves on' either hand; at twilight180 we were entering the Cyclades, and beginning to feel the yet enduring influence of a superstition181 which so mingled182 itself with the supremest art and culture, that after two thousand years its unreal creations are nearly as mighty183 as ever in the realms of poetry and imagination. These islands are still under the spell of genius, and we cannot, if we would, view them except through the medium of poetic184 history. I suppose that the island of Andros, which is cultivated largely by Albanians, an Illyrian race, having nothing in common with the ancient Ionians, would little interest us; if we cared to taste its wine, it would be because it was once famous throughout Greece, and if we visited the ruins of its chief city, it would be to recall an anecdote185 of Herodotus: when Themistocles besieged186 the town and demanded tribute, because the Andrians had been compelled to join the fleet of Xerxes at Salamis, and threatened them with the two mighty deities187 of Athens, Persuasion188 and Necessity, the spirited islanders replied that they were protected by two churlish gods, Poverty and Inability.
It was eleven o'clock at night when we sailed between Keos and Helena, the latter a long barren strip that never seems to have been inhabited at all, except from the tradition that Helen once landed there; but Keos and its old town of Iulis was the home of legends and poets, and famous for its code of laws, one of which tended to banish90 sickness and old age from its precincts, by a provision that every man above sixty should end his life by poison. Its ancient people had a reputation for purity and sobriety, which was probably due to the hegira189 of the nymphs, who were frightened away to the mainland by a roaring lion. The colossal190 image of the lion is still to be seen in marble near the ruins of the old city. The island of the Cyclades, which we should have liked most to tread, but did not see, is Delos, the holy, the religious and political centre of the Greek confederation, the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis, the seat of the oracle191, second only to that of Delphi, the diminutive192 and now almost deserted193 rock, shaken and sunken by repeated earthquakes, once crowned with one of the most magnificent temples of antiquity194, the spot of pilgrimage, the arena195 of games and mystic dances and poetic contests, and of the joyous196 and solemn festivities of the Delian Apollo.
We were too late to see, though we sat long on deck and watched for it by the aid of a full moon, the white Doric columns of the temple of Minerva on Sunium, which are visible by daylight a long distance at sea. The ancient mariners197, who came from Delos or from a more adventurous voyage into the 苂ean, beheld198 here, at the portals of Attica, the temple of its tutelary199 deity200, a welcome and a beacon; and as they shifted their sails to round the cape, they might have seen the shining helmet of the goddess herself,—the lofty statue of Minerva Promachus on the Acropolis.
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cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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panoramas
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| 全景画( panorama的名词复数 )； 全景照片； 一连串景象或事 | |
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azure
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| adj.天蓝色的，蔚蓝色的 | |
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bazaars
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| （东方国家的）市场( bazaar的名词复数 )； 义卖； 义卖市场； （出售花哨商品等的）小商品市场 | |
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shipping
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| n.船运（发货，运输，乘船） | |
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inspector
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| n.检查员，监察员，视察员 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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vivacity
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| n.快活，活泼，精神充沛 | |
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embarked
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| 乘船( embark的过去式和过去分词 )； 装载； 从事 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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fig
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| n.无花果(树) | |
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galley
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| n.（飞机或船上的）厨房单层甲板大帆船；军舰舰长用的大划艇； | |
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sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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15
minarets
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| n.（清真寺旁由报告祈祷时刻的人使用的）光塔( minaret的名词复数 ) | |
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16
rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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17
amethyst
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| n.紫水晶 | |
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18
smoothly
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| adv.平滑地，顺利地，流利地，流畅地 | |
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19
swarmed
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| 密集( swarm的过去式和过去分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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20
pottery
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| n.陶器，陶器场 | |
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21
baggy
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| adj.膨胀如袋的，宽松下垂的 | |
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22
embroidered
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| adj．绣花的 | |
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23
arsenal
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| n.兵工厂，军械库 | |
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24
complexion
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| n.肤色；情况，局面；气质，性格 | |
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26
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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27
ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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28
confession
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| n.自白，供认，承认 | |
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29
misty
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| adj.雾蒙蒙的，有雾的 | |
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30
peculiarities
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| n. 特质, 特性, 怪癖, 古怪 | |
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31
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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32
hoist
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| n.升高，起重机，推动；v.升起，升高，举起 | |
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33
bask
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| vt.取暖，晒太阳，沐浴于 | |
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34
slay
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| v.杀死，宰杀，杀戮 | |
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35
splendor
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| n.光彩；壮丽，华丽；显赫，辉煌 | |
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36
celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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37
festive
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| adj.欢宴的，节日的 | |
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38
attic
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| n.顶楼，屋顶室 | |
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39
temperate
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| adj.温和的，温带的，自我克制的，不过分的 | |
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40
northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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41
pristine
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| adj.原来的，古时的，原始的，纯净的，无垢的 | |
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42
perpendicular
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| adj.垂直的，直立的；n.垂直线，垂直的位置 | |
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43
limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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44
promontory
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| n.海角；岬 | |
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45
severed
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| v.切断，断绝( sever的过去式和过去分词 )；断，裂 | |
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46
sublime
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|
| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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47
conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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48
beacon
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|
| n.烽火，（警告用的）闪火灯，灯塔 | |
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49
ecclesiastic
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| n.教士，基督教会；adj.神职者的，牧师的，教会的 | |
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50
monasteries
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| 修道院( monastery的名词复数 ) | |
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51
pious
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|
| adj.虔诚的；道貌岸然的 | |
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52
sects
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| n.宗派，教派( sect的名词复数 ) | |
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53
rotation
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| n.旋转；循环，轮流 | |
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54
Christian
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|
| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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55
Christians
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| n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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56
primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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57
simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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58
behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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59
exclusion
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| n.拒绝，排除，排斥，远足，远途旅行 | |
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60
monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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61
gender
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| n.（生理上的）性，（名词、代词等的）性 | |
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62
lurk
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| n.潜伏，潜行；v.潜藏，潜伏，埋伏 | |
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63
subduing
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| 征服( subdue的现在分词 )； 克制； 制服； 色变暗 | |
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64
Moslem
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| n.回教徒，穆罕默德信徒；adj.回教徒的，回教的 | |
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65
solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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66
coveted
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|
| adj.令人垂涎的；垂涎的，梦寐以求的v.贪求，觊觎(covet的过去分词)；垂涎；贪图 | |
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67
scriptures
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|
| 经文，圣典( scripture的名词复数 )； 经典 | |
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68
apparition
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| n.幽灵，神奇的现象 | |
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69
cone
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| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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70
scarlet
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| n.深红色，绯红色，红衣；adj.绯红色的 | |
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71
crater
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| n.火山口，弹坑 | |
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72
iridescent
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|
| adj.彩虹色的，闪色的 | |
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73
doom
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|
| n.厄运，劫数；v.注定，命定 | |
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74
abbreviated
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|
| adj. 简短的，省略的 动词abbreviate的过去式和过去分词 | |
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75
reverted
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| 恢复( revert的过去式和过去分词 )； 重提； 回到…上； 归还 | |
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76
distinguished
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|
| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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77
cargo
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| n.(一只船或一架飞机运载的)货物 | |
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78
barbarians
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|
| n.野蛮人( barbarian的名词复数 )；外国人；粗野的人；无教养的人 | |
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79
fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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80
knights
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|
| 骑士； （中古时代的）武士( knight的名词复数 )； 骑士； 爵士； （国际象棋中）马 | |
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81
insolent
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|
| adj.傲慢的，无理的 | |
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82
fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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83
citadel
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|
| n.城堡；堡垒；避难所 | |
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84
ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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85
antiquities
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|
| n.古老( antiquity的名词复数 )；古迹；古人们；古代的风俗习惯 | |
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86
animated
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|
| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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87
briskness
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| n.敏捷，活泼 | |
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88
mosque
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| n.清真寺 | |
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89
corrupt
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|
| v.贿赂，收买；adj.腐败的，贪污的 | |
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90
banish
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|
| vt.放逐，驱逐；消除，排除 | |
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91
banishment
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| n.放逐，驱逐 | |
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92
vicissitude
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| n.变化，变迁，荣枯，盛衰 | |
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93
elastic
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| n.橡皮圈，松紧带；adj.有弹性的；灵活的 | |
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94
tunic
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| n.束腰外衣 | |
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95
retired
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|
| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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96
delightful
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|
| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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97
meditative
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| adj.沉思的，冥想的 | |
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98
portico
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| n.柱廊，门廊 | |
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99
dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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100
quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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101
mosaic
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| n./adj.镶嵌细工的，镶嵌工艺品的，嵌花式的 | |
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102
confirmation
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| n.证实，确认，批准 | |
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103
ingenuity
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| n.别出心裁；善于发明创造 | |
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104
subterranean
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| adj.地下的，地表下的 | |
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105
underneath
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|
| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
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106
seclusion
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| n.隐遁，隔离 | |
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107
mingles
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| 混合，混入( mingle的第三人称单数 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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108
fervent
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| adj.热的，热烈的，热情的 | |
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109
schisms
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| n.教会分立，分裂( schism的名词复数 ) | |
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110
corruptions
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| n.堕落( corruption的名词复数 )；腐化；腐败；贿赂 | |
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111
calamities
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| n.灾祸，灾难( calamity的名词复数 )；不幸之事 | |
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112
sedition
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| n.煽动叛乱 | |
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113
massacre
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| n.残杀，大屠杀；v.残杀，集体屠杀 | |
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114
clemency
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| n.温和，仁慈，宽厚 | |
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115
doctrines
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| n.教条( doctrine的名词复数 )；教义；学说；（政府政策的）正式声明 | |
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116
bulwark
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| n.堡垒，保障，防御 | |
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117
stamina
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| n.体力；精力；耐力 | |
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118
mosaics
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| n.马赛克( mosaic的名词复数 )；镶嵌；镶嵌工艺；镶嵌图案 | |
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119
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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120
edifices
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| n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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121
worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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122
aisle
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| n.（教堂、教室、戏院等里的）过道，通道 | |
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123
exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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124
aisles
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| n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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125
relaxation
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| n.松弛，放松；休息；消遣；娱乐 | |
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126
bigotry
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| n.偏见，偏执，持偏见的行为[态度]等 | |
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127
mosques
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| 清真寺； 伊斯兰教寺院，清真寺； 清真寺，伊斯兰教寺院( mosque的名词复数 ) | |
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128
adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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129
repose
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| v.(使)休息；n.安息 | |
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130
coffin
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| n.棺材，灵柩 | |
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131
skull
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| n.头骨；颅骨 | |
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132
rubies
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| 红宝石( ruby的名词复数 )； 红宝石色，深红色 | |
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133
jewelry
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| n.（jewllery）（总称）珠宝 | |
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134
gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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135
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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136
attire
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| v.穿衣，装扮[同]array；n.衣着；盛装 | |
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137
malaria
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| n.疟疾 | |
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138
conquerors
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| 征服者，占领者( conqueror的名词复数 ) | |
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139
invaders
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| 入侵者，侵略者，侵入物( invader的名词复数 ) | |
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140
whine
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| v.哀号，号哭；n.哀鸣 | |
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141
sentimental
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| adj.多愁善感的，感伤的 | |
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142
mounds
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| 土堆，土丘( mound的名词复数 )； 一大堆 | |
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143
inaccessible
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| adj.达不到的，难接近的 | |
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144
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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145
sterile
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| adj.不毛的，不孕的，无菌的，枯燥的，贫瘠的 | |
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146
gorge
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|
| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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147
secluded
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| adj.与世隔绝的；隐退的；偏僻的v.使隔开，使隐退( seclude的过去式和过去分词) | |
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148
maidens
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| 处女( maiden的名词复数 )； 少女； 未婚女子； （板球运动）未得分的一轮投球 | |
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149
defile
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| v.弄污，弄脏；n.(山间)小道 | |
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150
attest
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| vt.证明，证实；表明 | |
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151
quenched
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| 解（渴）( quench的过去式和过去分词 )； 终止（某事物）； （用水）扑灭（火焰等）； 将（热物体）放入水中急速冷却 | |
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152
saviour
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| n.拯救者，救星 | |
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153
haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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154
rimmed
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| adj.有边缘的，有框的v.沿…边缘滚动；给…镶边 | |
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155
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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156
adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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157
galleys
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| n.平底大船，战舰( galley的名词复数 )；（船上或航空器上的）厨房 | |
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158
avarice
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| n.贪婪；贪心 | |
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159
improvidence
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| n.目光短浅 | |
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160
accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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161
contemptible
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| adj.可鄙的，可轻视的，卑劣的 | |
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162
pillaging
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| v.抢劫，掠夺( pillage的现在分词 ) | |
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163
cavalry
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| n.骑兵；轻装甲部队 | |
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164
fable
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| n.寓言；童话；神话 | |
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165
centaurs
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| n.（希腊神话中）半人半马怪物( centaur的名词复数 ) | |
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166
alligator
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| n.短吻鳄(一种鳄鱼) | |
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167
marsh
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| n.沼泽，湿地 | |
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168
vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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169
industrious
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| adj.勤劳的，刻苦的，奋发的 | |
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170
truce
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| n.休战，(争执，烦恼等的)缓和；v.以停战结束 | |
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171
hues
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| 色彩( hue的名词复数 )； 色调； 信仰； 观点 | |
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172
beeches
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| n.山毛榉( beech的名词复数 )；山毛榉木材 | |
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173
rivalry
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| n.竞争，竞赛，对抗 | |
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174
immortal
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| adj.不朽的；永生的，不死的；神的 | |
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175
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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176
odious
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| adj.可憎的，讨厌的 | |
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177
trampled
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| 踩( trample的过去式和过去分词 )； 践踏； 无视； 侵犯 | |
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178
blighted
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| adj.枯萎的，摧毁的 | |
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179
mythology
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| n.神话，神话学，神话集 | |
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180
twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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181
superstition
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| n.迷信，迷信行为 | |
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182
mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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183
mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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184
poetic
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| adj.富有诗意的，有诗人气质的，善于抒情的 | |
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185
anecdote
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| n.轶事，趣闻，短故事 | |
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186
besieged
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| 包围，围困，围攻( besiege的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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187
deities
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| n.神，女神( deity的名词复数 )；神祗；神灵；神明 | |
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188
persuasion
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| n.劝说；说服；持有某种信仰的宗派 | |
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189
hegira
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| n.逃亡 | |
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190
colossal
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| adj.异常的，庞大的 | |
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191
oracle
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| n.神谕，神谕处，预言 | |
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192
diminutive
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| adj.小巧可爱的，小的 | |
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193
deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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194
antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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195
arena
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| n.竞技场，运动场所；竞争场所，舞台 | |
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196
joyous
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| adj.充满快乐的；令人高兴的 | |
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197
mariners
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| 海员，水手（mariner的复数形式） | |
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198
beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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199
tutelary
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| adj.保护的；守护的 | |
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200
deity
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| n.神，神性；被奉若神明的人(或物) | |
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