A modest drove and slender outfit2 were mine; all that the hard times had spared. Two or three hundred well-bred cattle, a dray and team with provisions for six months, two stock-horses, one faithful old servant, one young ditto (unfaithful), ￡1 in my purse—voilà tout3. Rather a limited capital to begin the world with; but what did I want with money in those days? I was a boy, which means a prince—happy, hopeful, healthy, beyond all latter-day possibilities, bound on a journey to seek my fortune. All the fairy-tale conditions were fulfilled. I had "horse to ride and weapon to wear"—that is, a 12-foot stock-whip by Nangus Jack—clothes, tools, guns, and ammunition4; a new world around and[Pg 11] beyond; what could money do for the gentleman-adventurer burning with anticipation5 of heroic exploration? Such thoughts must have passed through my brain, inasmuch as I invested 75 per cent of my cash in the purchase of a cattle dog. Poor Dora, she barked her last some thirty-five years agone.
On the next day we crossed the Moonee Ponds at Flemington, took the Keilor road, and managed to bustle6 our mob all the way to the Werribee. A slightly unfair journey; but the summer day was long, and we made the river with the fading light about eight. I had a reason, too. Here bivouacked my good old friend the late William Ryrie, of Yering. He, too, was journeying to the west country with a large drove of Upper Yarra stores. He had kindly7 consented to join forces—an arrangement more to my advantage than his. So, as his cattle were drawing into camp, I cheerfully "boxed" mine therewith, and relieved myself by the act of further anxiety.
Night watches were duly set, after an evening meal of a truly luxurious9 character. I felt at odd moments as if I would have given all the world for a doze10 unrebuked. At last the whole four mortal hours came to an end. Then I understood, almost for the first time in my life, what "first-class sleep" really meant.
At sunrise I awoke much fresher than paint, and walking to the door of the tent, which held three stretchers—those of the leader of the party, his brother Donald, and myself—looked out upon the glorious far-stretching wild. What a sight was there,[Pg 12] seen with the eyes of unworn, undoubting youth! On three sides lay the plains, a dimly verdurous expanse, over which a night mist was lifting itself along the line of the river. The outline of the Anakie-You Yangs range was sharply drawn11 against the dawn-lighted horizon, while far to the north-east was seen the forest-clothed summit of Mount Macedon, and westward12 gleamed the sea. The calm water of Corio Bay and the abrupt13 cone14 of Station Peak, nearly in the line of our route, formed an unmistakable yet picturesque15 landmark16.
The cattle, peacefully grazing, were spread over the plain, having been released from camp. The horses were being brought in; among them I was quick to distinguish my valuable pair. Old Watts17, the campkeeper, a hoary18 retainer of Yering—who gave his name to the affluent19 of the Yarra so called—was cooking steaks for breakfast. Everything was delightfully20 new, strangely exhilarating, with a fresh flavour of freedom and adventure.
After breakfast we saddled up, and, mounting our horses, strolled on after a leisurely21 fashion with the cattle. I was riding, as became an Australian, a four-year-old colt, my own property, and bred in the family. A grandson of Skeleton and of Satellite, he was moderately fast and a great stayer. Mr. Donald Ryrie rode a favourite galloway yclept Dumple—a choice roadster and clever stock-horse, much resembling in outline Dandie Dinmont's historic "powney." He and I were sufficiently22 near in age to enjoy discursive23 conversation during the long, slightly tedious driving hours, to an extent which occasionally impaired24 our usefulness. When in[Pg 13] argument or narrative25 we permitted "the tail" to straggle unreasonably26 we were sharply recalled to our duty. Our kind-hearted choleric27 leader then adopted language akin28 to that in which the ruffled29 M.F.H. exhorts30 the erring31 horsemen of his field.
Ah me, what pleasant days were those! A little warm, even hot, doubtless. But we could take off our coats without fear of Mrs. Grundy. There was plenty of grass. "Travelling" was an honourable32 and recognised occupation in those Arcadian times. "Purchased land" was an unknown quantity. Droughts were disbelieved in, and popularly supposed to belong exclusively to the "Sydney side." The horses were fresh, the stages were moderate, and when a halt was called at sundown the cattle soon lay contentedly33 down in the soft, thick grass. The camp fires were lighted, and another pleasant, hopeful day was succeeded by a restful yet romantic night.
So we fared on past the Little River and Fyans' Ford34, where a certain red cow of mine was nearly drowned, and had to be left behind; then to Beale's, on the Barwon; thence to Colac, for we had decided35 to take the inner road and not to go by "the Frenchman's," or "Cressy," then represented solely36 by Monsieur (and Madame) Duverney's Inn, as it was then called.
Apropos37 of Fyans' Ford, there was an inn as we passed up. When returning I met with an adventure nearly similar to that in "She Stoops to Conquer." I left the station for Melbourne in the December following, having earned a Christmas at home. When I arrived at Geelong I turned out early next morning, and rode to Fyans' Ford to see if I could[Pg 14] find "tale or tidings" of the red cow left behind, as before mentioned. How honest were nearly all men in those days! I did hear of her, and, having discovered her whereabouts, I went to the old house to breakfast, preparatory to riding to Heidelberg, fifty-seven miles all told, that night.
Dismounting at the stable door, I gave my mare38 to the groom39, with a brisk injunction as to a good feed, and passed into the house. In the parlour was a maid-servant laying the breakfast. I stood before the fireplace in an easy attitude, and demanded when breakfast would be ready.
"In about half an hour, sir." I noticed a slightly surprised air.
"Can't you get it a little sooner, Mary?" I said, guessing at her name with the affability of a tavern40 guest of fashion and substance.
"I don't know, sir," she made answer meekly42.
"Come, Mary," I said, "surely you could manage something in less time? I have a long way to ride to-day."
She smiled, and was about to reply, when a door opened, and a middle-aged43 personage, with full military whiskers, and an air of authority, looked in.
"I don't think I have the pleasure of knowing you, sir," he stated, with a certain dignity.
"No," I said; "no! I think not. Not been here since last year." (I did not particularly see the necessity either.) I was cool and cheerful, and it struck me that, for an innkeeper, he was over-punctilious.
"This is no inn, sir," he said, with increased sternness.
[Pg 15]
In a moment my position flashed upon me. I then remembered I had not noticed the sign as I rode up. The house and grounds, large and extensive, had been occupied by a private family. Nothing very uncommon44 about that. So here had I been ordering my horse to be fed, and lecturing the parlour-maid, all the while in a strange gentleman's abode45.
I could not help laughing, but immediately proceeded to apologise fully8 and formally, at the same time pointing out that the place had been an inn when I last saw it. Hence my mistake, which I sincerely regretted. I bowed, and made for the door.
My host's visage relaxed. "Come," he said, "I see how it all happened. But you must not lose your breakfast for all that. Mrs. —— will be ready directly, and my daughter. I trust you will give us the pleasure of your company."
"All's well that ends well." I was introduced to the ladies of the house, who made themselves agreeable. There was a good laugh over my invasion of the parlour and Mary's astonishment46. I breakfasted with appetite. We parted cordially. And, as my mare carried me to Heidelberg that night without a sign of distress47, she probably had breakfasted well also.
I recollect—how well!—the night I reached Lake Colac. Mr. Hugh Murray had, I think, the only station upon it, and the Messrs. Dennis were a short distance on the hither side. The Messrs. Robertson farther on. The cattle had rather a long day without water. Not quite so bad as the Old[Pg 16] Man Plain, but a good stretch. We did not "make" the lake until after dark. How they all rushed in! It was shallow, and sound as to bottom. We concluded to let them alone, not believing that they would wander far through such good feed before day. So we had our supper cheerfully, and turned in. We could hear them splashing about in the water, drinking exhaustively, and finally returning in division. At daylight, the first man up (not the writer) descried48 them comfortably camped, nearly all down within a few hundred yards.
How far is the Parin Yallock? It is many a year since I saw the Stony49 Rises, as we somewhat unscientifically called the volcanic50 trap dykes51 and lava52 outflows, now riven into boulders53 and scoria masses, yet clothed with richest grass and herbage, which surround for many miles the craters54 of Noorat, "The Sisters"—Leura and Porndon. Well, we took it very easily along that pastoral Eden, the garden of Australia, where dwelt pastoral man before the Fall, ere he was driven forth55 into far sun-scorched drought-accursed wilds to earn his bread by the sweat of his brain, and to bear the heart-sickness that comes of hope long deferred—the deadly despair that is born of long years of waiting for slow remorseless ruin. Ha! how have we skipped over half-a-century, more or less! Bless you, nobody was ruined in those golden days, because there was no credit. Riverina was almost as much a terra incognita as Borneo—much more the Lower Macquarie and the Upper Bogan. But I must get back to Colac, and feel the thick kangaroo grass under my feet, quite as thick as an English meadow[Pg 17] (I have been there since, too), as Donald and I led our horses. He had a rein56 which slipped out at the cheek, contrived57 on purpose for his horse, and the better sustentation of him, Dumple.
We leave Captain Fyans' station on our right. He was the Crown Lands Commissioner58 in those days, and had the sense to take up a small, but very choice, bit of the "waste lands of the Crown" on his own account. There abide59 the "FF" cattle to this day, if the Messrs. Robertson have not deposed60 them in favour of sheep, or the rabbits eaten them out of house and home.
We pass the police station, another rich pasture reserved for the mounted police troopers and their chargers. There old Hatsell Garrard dwelt for a season, with his fresh-coloured English yeoman face, his pleasant, racy talk, and unerring judgment61 in horse-flesh. Did not Cornborough, that grand old son of Tramp, emigrate to Victoria under his auspices62? I need say no more.
Then we come to Scott and Richardson's, the Parin Yallock station proper. Both good fellows. The latter might aver41 with Ralph Leigh—
Those were the days when my beard was black,
and the good steed Damper was not much averse63 to "a stiff top rail," though carrying a rider considerably64 over six feet, and a welter weight to boot. Between the station and the crossing-place—difficult and dangerous it was, too, even for horsemen—we camped. It came on to rain. It was our only unpleasant night (except one when we missed the drays and had no supper. I didn't smoke then and[Pg 18] oh! how hungry I was). The cattle were uneasy, and "ringed" all night. Next morning the camp was like a circus on a large scale. The soil is rich and black. I have seen no mud to speak of for the last ten years. Even the mud in those parts was of a superior description.
Next day we faced the Parin Yallock Creek65 and its malign66 ford—save the mark! One dray was bogged67; several head of cattle; my colt went down tail first, and nearly "turned turtle," but eventually the corps68 d'armée got safely over to the sound but rugged69 stony rises. Crossing them, we reached the broad rich flats around the lovely lake of Purrumbeet.
It was late when we got there, the cattle having been hustled70 and bustled71 to get out of the labyrinthine72 stony rises before dark; and the day turning out warm after the rain, they were inclined to drink heartily73. To this intent they ran violently into the lake, I don't know how many fathoms74 deep, and shelving abruptly75. All the leaders were out of their depth at once, and swam about with a surprised air. However, the beach was hard and smooth, so back they came, in good trim to set to at the luxuriant herbage which borders the lake shore. I wonder what the Messrs. Manifold would think now of a thousand head of cattle coming ravaging76 up close to the house, and walking into their clover and rye-grass, without saying "by your leave," much less "reporting."
When the day broke how lovely the landscape seemed. The rugged lava country that we had left behind had given place to immense meadows and grassy77 slopes, thinly timbered with handsome [Pg 19]blackwood trees. The Lake Purrumbeet was the great central feature—a noble sheet of water, with sloping green banks, and endless depth of the fresh pure element. On the western bank was built a comfortable cottage, where flowers and fruit trees by their unusual luxuriance bore testimony78 to the richness of the deep black alluvial79.
We did a "lazyally" sort of day—the cattle knee-deep in grass, every one taking it extremely easy. Leura, another volcano out of work, surrounded by wonderful greenery, wherein the station cattle lay about, looking like prize-winners that had strayed from a show-yard, was passed about mid-day. Next morning saw us at Mr. Neil Black's Basin Bank station. Here we saw the heifers of the NB herd80. They were "tailed" or herded81, as was the fashion in those days, and a fine well-grown, well-bred lot they were. The overseer was either Donald or Angus "to be sure whateffer," one of a draft of stalwart Highlanders which Mr. Black used to import annually83. Very desirable colonists84 they were, and as soon as they "got the English," a matter of some difficulty at the outset, they commenced to save money at a noticeable rate. A fair-sized section of the Western district is now populated by these Glenormiston clansmen and their descendants, and no man was better served than their worthy85 chief—Neil of that ilk.
From Basin Bank we drove towards the late Mr. William Hamilton's Yallock station, where we abode one night. Here, or at the next stage, the trail was not so plain. I have a reminiscence of our having camped one night at a spot not intended for[Pg 20] such a halt, and losing our supper in consequence. No doubt we made up for it at breakfast.
Now we had come to the end of the genuine Colac country. What we were approaching was a good land, richly grassed, and, agriculturally speaking, perhaps superior to the other. But I shall always consider the sub-district that I have just described, including Messrs. Black's, Robertson's, Manifold's, and one or two other properties, having regard to soil, climate, pasture, and distance from a metropolis86, as the very choicest area to be found in the whole Australian continent.
A few more days' easy travelling took us nearly to our journey's end. We reached the bank of the Merai, at Grasmere, the head station of the Messrs. Bolden, and there, not many miles from the site of the flourishing township of Warrnambool, we drafted our respective cattle, and went different ways—Mr. Ryrie's to his run, not far from Tower Hill, and mine to appropriate some unused country between the Merai and the sea.
Here I camped for about six months, and a right joyous87 time it was in that "kingdom by the sea." I remember riding down to the shore one bright day, just below where Warrnambool now stands. No trace of man or habitation was there, "nor roof nor latched88 door." As I rode over the sand hummock89 which bordered the beach, a draft of out-lying cattle, basking90 in the sun on the farther side, rose and galloped91 off. All else was silent and tenantless92 as before the days of Cook.
I took up my abode provisionally upon the bank of the Merai, which, near the mouth, was a broad[Pg 21] and imposing93 stream, and turned out my herd. My stockman and I spent our days in "going round" the cattle; shooting and kangaroo-hunting in odd times—recreation to which he, as an ex-poacher of considerable experience, took very kindly. The pied goose, here in large flocks, with duck, teal, pigeons, and an occasional wild turkey, were our chief sport and sustenance94.
On the opposite side of the river was the first cultivated area in the Port Fairy district, then known as Campbell's farm. An old colonial whaling company had their headquarters at the Port, and Captain Campbell, a stalwart Highlander82 long known as Port Fairy Campbell, had utilised his spare crews in the early days, and tested the richness of that famous tract95 of fertile land now known as the Farnham Survey.
We were not without practical demonstration96 of the bounty97 of the soil. One evening I was astonished to see splendid mealy potatoes served up with the accustomed corned beef.
"Where did you get these, Mrs. Burge?" said I to the stockman's wife.
"From the lubras," rather consciously; "I gave them beef in exchange."
"A very fair one," but a light suddenly striking upon my mental vision,—"Where do the lubras get them from? They toil98 not, neither do they spin!"
"I don't know for certain, sir," she answered, looking down, "but they're digging the potato crop, I believe, at Campbell's farm." Here was foreshadowed the enormous Warrnambool export, that immense intercolonial potato trade, which has[Pg 22] latterly assumed such proportions, and which invades even this far north-western corner of New South Wales. What glorious times I had, gun in hand, or with our three famous kangaroo dogs, slaying99 the swift marsupial100. In those days he was tolerated and rather admired, no one imagining that he would be, a couple of generations later, a scourge101 and an oppressor, eating the sparse102 herbage of the overstocked squatter103, and being classed as a "noxious104 animal," with a price actually put on his head by utilitarian105 legislators.
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1
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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outfit
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| n.（为特殊用途的）全套装备，全套服装 | |
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tout
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| v.推销，招徕；兜售；吹捧，劝诱 | |
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ammunition
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| n.军火，弹药 | |
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anticipation
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| n.预期，预料，期望 | |
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bustle
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| v.喧扰地忙乱，匆忙，奔忙；n.忙碌；喧闹 | |
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7
kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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10
doze
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| v.打瞌睡；n.打盹，假寐 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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cone
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| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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landmark
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| n.陆标，划时代的事，地界标 | |
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watts
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| （电力计量单位）瓦，瓦特( watt的名词复数 ) | |
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hoary
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| adj.古老的；鬓发斑白的 | |
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affluent
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| adj.富裕的，富有的，丰富的，富饶的 | |
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delightfully
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| 大喜，欣然 | |
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leisurely
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| adj.悠闲的；从容的，慢慢的 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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discursive
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| adj.离题的，无层次的 | |
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impaired
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| adj.受损的；出毛病的；有（身体或智力）缺陷的v.损害，削弱( impair的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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narrative
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| n.叙述，故事；adj.叙事的，故事体的 | |
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unreasonably
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choleric
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akin
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| adj.同族的，类似的 | |
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ruffled
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| adj. 有褶饰边的, 起皱的 动词ruffle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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exhorts
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| n.劝勉者，告诫者，提倡者( exhort的名词复数 )v.劝告，劝说( exhort的第三人称单数 ) | |
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erring
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| 做错事的，错误的 | |
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honourable
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| adj.可敬的；荣誉的，光荣的 | |
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contentedly
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Ford
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| n.浅滩，水浅可涉处；v.涉水，涉过 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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solely
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apropos
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| adv.恰好地；adj.恰当的；关于 | |
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mare
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| n.母马，母驴 | |
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groom
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| vt.给（马、狗等）梳毛，照料，使...整洁 | |
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tavern
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| n.小旅馆，客栈；小酒店 | |
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aver
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| v.极力声明；断言；确证 | |
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meekly
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| adv.温顺地，逆来顺受地 | |
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middle-aged
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| adj.中年的 | |
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uncommon
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| adj.罕见的，非凡的，不平常的 | |
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abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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astonishment
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| n.惊奇，惊异 | |
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distress
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| n.苦恼，痛苦，不舒适；不幸；vt.使悲痛 | |
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descried
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| adj.被注意到的，被发现的，被看到的 | |
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49
stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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50
volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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51
dykes
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| abbr.diagonal wire cutters 斜线切割机n.堤( dyke的名词复数 )；坝；堰；沟 | |
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lava
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| n.熔岩，火山岩 | |
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boulders
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| n.卵石( boulder的名词复数 )；巨砾；（受水或天气侵蚀而成的）巨石；漂砾 | |
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craters
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| n.火山口( crater的名词复数 )；弹坑等 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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rein
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| n.疆绳，统治，支配；vt.以僵绳控制，统治 | |
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contrived
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| adj.不自然的，做作的；虚构的 | |
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58
commissioner
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| n.（政府厅、局、处等部门）专员，长官，委员 | |
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abide
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| vi.遵守；坚持；vt.忍受 | |
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deposed
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| v.罢免( depose的过去式和过去分词 )；（在法庭上）宣誓作证 | |
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judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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auspices
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| n.资助，赞助 | |
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averse
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| adj.厌恶的；反对的，不乐意的 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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malign
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| adj.有害的；恶性的；恶意的；v.诽谤，诬蔑 | |
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bogged
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| adj.陷于泥沼的v.（使）陷入泥沼， （使）陷入困境( bog的过去式和过去分词 )；妨碍，阻碍 | |
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corps
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| n.(通信等兵种的)部队；(同类作的)一组 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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hustled
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| 催促（hustle的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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bustled
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| 闹哄哄地忙乱，奔忙( bustle的过去式和过去分词 )； 催促 | |
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labyrinthine
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| adj.如迷宫的；复杂的 | |
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heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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fathoms
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| 英寻( fathom的名词复数 ) | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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ravaging
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| 毁坏( ravage的现在分词 )； 蹂躏； 劫掠； 抢劫 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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testimony
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| n.证词；见证，证明 | |
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alluvial
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| adj.冲积的；淤积的 | |
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herd
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| n.兽群，牧群；vt.使集中，把…赶在一起 | |
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herded
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| 群集，纠结( herd的过去式和过去分词 )； 放牧； （使）向…移动 | |
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highlander
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| n.高地的人，苏格兰高地地区的人 | |
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annually
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| adv.一年一次，每年 | |
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colonists
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| n.殖民地开拓者，移民，殖民地居民( colonist的名词复数 ) | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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metropolis
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| n.首府；大城市 | |
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joyous
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| adj.充满快乐的；令人高兴的 | |
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latched
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| v.理解( latch的过去式和过去分词 )；纠缠；用碰锁锁上（门等）；附着（在某物上） | |
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hummock
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| n.小丘 | |
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basking
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| v.晒太阳，取暖( bask的现在分词 )；对…感到乐趣；因他人的功绩而出名；仰仗…的余泽 | |
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galloped
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| （使马）飞奔，奔驰( gallop的过去式和过去分词 )； 快速做[说]某事 | |
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tenantless
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| adj.无人租赁的，无人居住的 | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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sustenance
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| n.食物，粮食；生活资料；生计 | |
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tract
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| n.传单，小册子，大片(土地或森林) | |
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demonstration
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| n.表明，示范，论证，示威 | |
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bounty
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| n.慷慨的赠予物，奖金；慷慨，大方；施与 | |
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toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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slaying
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| 杀戮。 | |
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marsupial
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| adj.有袋的，袋状的 | |
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101
scourge
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| n.灾难，祸害；v.蹂躏 | |
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102
sparse
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| adj.稀疏的，稀稀落落的，薄的 | |
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103
squatter
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| n.擅自占地者 | |
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104
noxious
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| adj.有害的，有毒的；使道德败坏的，讨厌的 | |
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utilitarian
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| adj.实用的，功利的 | |
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