If the system of moderate alienation5 of Crown lands then prevalent could have been carried out in after years—viz. the disposing of agricultural areas from time to time, as the demand increased—no great harm would have accrued7 to the pastoral interest, and the legitimate8 wants of the farmers[Pg 122] would have been fully9 supplied. The owners of the stations referred to, as the wave of population approached, chiefly applied10 themselves to secure the purely11 pastoral portions of the runs, leaving the arable12 land for its legitimate occupiers. No squatter13 was then suddenly ruined, while all intending farmers were satisfied. Good feeling was maintained, as each class of producers recognised the necessity for compromise, when the mixed occupation had become a fact. It was far otherwise when the whole land lay open to the selector, who was thus enabled to enter at will into lands which other men's labour had rendered valuable, or to exact a price for refraining.
In good sooth, the pioneer squatter of that day had many and divers14 foes15 to contend with. Having done battle with one army of Philistines16, another straightway appeared from an unexpected quarter. We had had trouble with our aboriginals17: a canine18 "early Australian," the dingo, had likewise disturbed our rest. He used to eat calves19, with perhaps an occasional foal, so we waged war against him. We were not up to strychnine in those days. The first letter I saw in print on the subject was from the ill-fated Horace Wills, whose sheep had been suffering badly at the time. He had come across the panacea20 somewhere, and lost no time in recommending it to his brother squatters. With the help of our kangaroo dogs, and an occasional murder of puppies, we pretty well cleared them out. As cattlemen, taking a selfish view of the case, we need not have been so enthusiastic. Though he killed an occasional calf21, the wild hound did good service in keeping down the kangaroo, which, after[Pg 123] his extinction22, proved a far more expensive and formidable antagonist23.
We had more than once seen a small pack of dingoes surrounding an "old man kangaroo" in the winter time, when from weight and the soft nature of the ground he is unable to run fast. They also kill the "joeys" or young ones, when too small to run independently, though not to feed. I saw this exemplified on one occasion when returning late from a day's stock-riding. There was still light enough to distinguish surrounding objects, when a doe kangaroo crossed the track in front of me, hard pressed by a red dog close at her haunches. At first I took the pursuer to be a kangaroo dog, but seeing at a second glance that it was a dingo, I pulled up to watch the hunt. The forest was clear; rather to my surprise he gained upon her, and, springing forward, nearly secured a hold. She just got free, and not till then did she rid herself of the burden with which she was handicapped, and without which the dog could not have "seen the way she went," as the stock-riders say.
"Needs must when the devil drives" is an ancient proverb, and some idea of corresponding force must have passed through her marsupial25 mind as she cast forth26 from her pouch27 poor "Joey"—a good-sized youngster of more than a month old. He recognised the situation, for he scudded28 away with all his might, but was caught and killed by "Br'er" Dingo before I could interfere29, his mother sitting up, a few yards off, making a curious sound indicative of wrath30 and fear. I somewhat unfairly deprived dingo of his supper by placing it carefully out of his[Pg 124] reach in a tree; but in the kangaroo battues which ensued, it more than once occurred to me that I was interfering31 with a natural law, of which I did not then foresee the consequences.
On the eastern side of Port Fairy lay Grasmere, which on my first introduction to the district, in 1843, was the property of the Messrs. Bolden Brothers. Pleasantly situated33 on the banks of the Merai, its limestone34 slopes formed beautiful paddocks for the blue-blooded Bates shorthorns, of which these gentlemen were, at that time, the sole Australian proprietors36. They had also a share in the Merang and Moodiwarra runs jointly37 with Messrs. Farie and Rodger. It was, however, arranged that they should remove their cattle within a certain time, and, I think, early in 1844 the arrangement was carried out. These enterprising and distinguished38 colonists39 also owned Minjah, then known as "Bolden's sheep station," now Mr. Joseph Ware's magnificent freehold estate.
A considerable sum of money for those days had been spent, as early as 1843, at Grasmere, when the Rev6. John Bolden and I rode in there, having been piloted from the "lower station," where we had spent the previous night, by a grizzled old stock-rider hight Jack40 Keighran. It was pitch dark, and I was glad to hear the kangaroo dogs set up their chorus, and to know that we were at home. Messrs. Lemuel and Armyne Bolden were then the resident partners.
In the morning I was able to look around at my leisure, and as I had just become inoculated41 with the shorthorn complaint, which I have never wholly[Pg 125] lost, I had a treat. The paddocks, in size from fifty to two hundred acres, were securely enclosed with three-rail fences, and were well grassed, watered, and sheltered.
I have never ceased to regret that the low prices which ruled then and for several years afterwards, coupled with the failure of a well-considered experiment in shipping42 salt beef in tierces from Melbourne, should have caused the breaking up of that model stud farm, the dispersion of a priceless shorthorn tribe. I had been previously43 introduced to "Lady Vane," a granddaughter of "Second Hubback," and her inestimable calf "Young Mussulman," at Heidelberg. Here I had the pleasure of seeing them again, if not on their native heath, still in pastures befitting their high lineage and aristocratic position. Also a former daughter of Lady Vane and the Duke of Northumberland. There grazed the imported cows Lady and Matilda; the imported Bates bulls Fawdon, Tommy Bates, Pagan, and Mahomet. Besides these a score or more of Circular Head shorthorn cows, then perhaps the purest cattle which the colony could furnish.
No pains or expense were spared in the keep and rearing of these valuable—nay invaluable44 cattle—for which, indeed, high prices, for that period, had been paid in England. Everything seemed to promise well for the enterprise—so incalculably advantageous45, in time to come, to the herds of Australia. And yet ere the year had rolled round the whole establishment had been disposed of to the Messrs. Manifold. The bulk of the herd2 cattle went to Messrs. John and Peter Manifold, of Lake[Pg 126] Purrumbeet, with a proportion of the bulls. The shorthorns were purchased by the late Mr. Thomas Manifold, who for some years after made Grasmere his residence. In the Spring Valley, a lovely natural meadow, were located a lot of beautiful heifers, the progeny46 of picked "H over 5" cows (the Hawdon brand), and then the best bred herd in New South Wales.
I was present at the purchase of Minjah from the Messrs. Bolden by Mr. Plummer, of the firm of Plummer and Dent24, which took place in 1843. With him came Mr. Richard Sutton, as amicus curi?, in the interest of Mr. Plummer, who was a newly-arrived Englishman—verdant as to colonial investments. There was a certain amount of argument; but finally Minjah was sold with fifty head of Spring Valley heifers and a young bull, the price, I think, being £5 per head for the heifers, £50 for the bull, and the station given in. This was the origin of the famous Minjah herd. Grasmere and Spring Valley, as also the run of Messrs. Strong and Foster, were subsequently "cut up" and sold. They were too near the town of Warrnambool to escape that fate. Mr. Manifold saved part of his run, but Messrs. Strong and Foster were less fortunate, losing nearly the whole of "St. Mary's." It was not sold, I think, until the gold year, 1851, which accounted for its wholesale48 annexation49. This is the only instance I can recall in that district of the proprietor35 losing his run in its entirety. The land, however, was exceptionally good, and unmixed with ordinary pastoral country.
The Messrs. Allan Brothers—John, William, and[Pg 127] Henry—held Tooram, and the country generally on the east bank of the Hopkins, where that river flows into the sea. It was a picturesque50 place, having a fine elevated site, and overlooking the broad, beautiful stream not far from its mouth. I thought they should have called it "Allan Water," but apparently51 it had not so occurred to them. The country was more romantic than profitable, it was said, in those days, being only moderately fattening52, and wonder was often expressed that, having the rich western country all before them when they arrived in 1841, or thereabouts, they did not make a better choice. But pioneers and explorers are often contented53 with country inferior to that which is picked up by those who come after.
The real secret is that explorers are far more interested in the enterprise and adventure than in the promised land which should be the reward of their labours. They delight in the wilderness54, and often undervalue Canaan. No spot could have been more suitably situated than the locale the Messrs. Allan selected for ministering to such tastes.
On the south was the coast-line, stretching away to far Cape47 Otway. On that side they had no neighbours, and Mr. John Allan, who was an intrepid55 bushman, made hunting and exploring excursions in that direction. I paid them a visit in the early part of 1844. I regarded it as a perfectly56 lovely place, with all kinds of Robinson Crusoe possibilities. Wrecks57, savages58, pathless woods, an island solitude59—it was on the road to nowhere; nothing was wanting to enable the possessors to enjoy perfect felicity. The romantic solitude has, however, of late[Pg 128] years been invaded by a cheese-factory. No doubt it supports a population, but the charm of the frowning, surf-beaten headland looking over the majestic60, limitless ocean—of the broad reaches of the reed-fringed river—of the south-eastern trail leading into "a waste land where no one comes, or hath come since the making of the world"—must be fled for ever.
"St. Ruth's" was the name given to a tract61 of country which joined Squattlesea Mere32 on the western boundary. I believe the name and the reputation of the district sold the place more than once, which was hard upon the purchasers, for it was one of the worst runs in Australia. It comprised a few decent limestone ridges—with some passable flats, but the "balance" was scrub, fern, swamp, stringy-bark forest, and heath. Considering it lay in a good district, and enjoyed a fine climate, it was astonishing how it contrived62 to be so bad. If it did not ruin everybody that was ever connected with it, it was because they had no money to lose, or that exceptional amount of acuteness which enabled them to dodge63 hard fortune by passing it on.
It was taken up, soon after our performance in that line, by Messrs. Cay and Kaye, sometimes called English and Scotch64 Kay. The former of these gentlemen, Mr. Robert Cay, was "shown" the run by the Yambuk people, when he rode over a very small bit of it, and, going back to his homestead on the Lodden, sent a trustworthy man up with two or three hundred head of cattle, who formally occupied it.
A hut and yard were built—the cattle broken in,[Pg 129] more or less—and the occupation was complete. A year or two after Mr. Cay sold out to Mr. Adolphus Goldsmith, of Trawalla, for a reasonable price, the cattle to be taken by book-muster. Mr. Goldsmith had a herd at Trawalla, which was being encroached upon by the sheep. He required room, and bought this curiously65 unprofitable place to put them on. The Port Fairy district, I should say, had a great reputation; so had the adjoining runs. Mr. Goldsmith could not imagine that a run so near Tarrone, Yambuk, and Dunmore could be so very bad. Buyer and seller rode over it together. At the end of the day Mr. Cay said, "Look here, old fellow! I never saw half as much of the run before. I had no idea it was such an infernal hole, I give you my word. If you like you can throw up your bargain!"
"Oh no!" quoth Dolly, "I'll stick to it. It will answer my purpose."
The end of it was that Mr. Cunningham, as overseer, came down in charge of five or six hundred well-bred cattle, which were turned out at St. Ruth's after a reasonable "tailing," and presently were all over the district. Mr. Cunningham, as I have before stated, was one of the most energetic men possible, but he failed to make St. Ruth's a payable66 speculation67. The cattle never fattened68; they became wild; they could never be mustered69 with certainty; they furnished none of the pleasing results with which cattle in a crack district are generally credited.
Eventually Mr. Goldsmith lost patience, and sold this valuable property to a former manager of his[Pg 130] own—Mr. Hatsell Garrard. This gentleman had accompanied Mr. Goldsmith from England, and, it was said, had chosen for him the celebrated70 "Cornborough," a son of Tramp, a grandson of Whalebone, and one of the grandest horses that ever looked through a bridle71. A good judge of stock, both in England and Australia, how Mr. Garrard came to buy such a place is "one of the mysteries." The terms were easy, probably, and the price tempting72; he thought "it couldn't hurt at the price." The homestead, too (Mr. Cunningham was a great improver), was now very comfortable. That and the name together did it.
Mr. Garrard, who was a most genial73, jolly, but withal tolerably shrewd old boy, kept the run for a year or two, just selling cattle enough to pay his way, when he dropped on a chance to "unload" and make a sale to Messrs. Moutray and Peyton.
The former, like the seller, had abounding74 experience, had lived on an adjoining run, was quite capable of managing his own affairs, yet he went into it with his eyes open. His only excuse was, that store cattle were worth £4 and £5 a head "after the gold," and he thought he saw his way. His partner, Mr. Peyton, was a young Englishman of good family, vigorous and ardent75, just the man to succeed in Australia, one would have thought. He was told exactly and truly by his friends all the bad points of the run; but it was difficult in that day of high prices to find an investment for two or three thousand pounds, so he, being anxious to start, made the plunge76. In a couple of years the partnership77 was dissolved, Moutray having[Pg 131] saved some of his money, and Peyton having lost every shilling.
They sold to Mr. Doughty78, who had formerly79 owned a sheep station near Mount Gambier. He was a married man, and preferred, for some reasons, the Port Fairy district to live in. He was economical, active, a famous horseman, and a good manager. He tried "all he knew," but was beaten in a little more than a year, and "gave it best." I heard of other purchasers, but about that time I severed80 my connection with the district and followed the fortune of St. Ruth's no further. Probably, if cleared, drained, laid down in grasses at the rate of £10 per acre, fenced and subdivided81, it might, under the weeping western skies, produce good pasture. But it always was an unlucky spot.
In the strongest contradistinction to St. Ruth's—a regular man-trap, and as pecuniarily82 fatal as if specially83 created for Murad the Unlucky—was the station generally known as "Blackfellows' Creek84," lying east of Eumeralla. By the way, the original pathfinders of Port Fairy had a pretty fancy in the naming of their watercourses. There were Snaky Creek, Breakfast Creek, and, of course, Deep Creek and Sandy Creek. Now, this Blackfellows' Creek was as exceptionally good a station as St. Ruth's was "t'other way on." It was proverbially and eminently85 a fattening run; and on the principle "who drives fat oxen should himself be fat," its owner, Mr. William Carmichael, was, and always had been, far and away the fattest man in the district.
点击收听单词发音
1 devastation | |
n.毁坏;荒废;极度震惊或悲伤 | |
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2 herd | |
n.兽群,牧群;vt.使集中,把…赶在一起 | |
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3 herds | |
兽群( herd的名词复数 ); 牧群; 人群; 群众 | |
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4 abide | |
vi.遵守;坚持;vt.忍受 | |
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5 alienation | |
n.疏远;离间;异化 | |
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6 rev | |
v.发动机旋转,加快速度 | |
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7 accrued | |
adj.权责已发生的v.增加( accrue的过去式和过去分词 );(通过自然增长)产生;获得;(使钱款、债务)积累 | |
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8 legitimate | |
adj.合法的,合理的,合乎逻辑的;v.使合法 | |
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9 fully | |
adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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10 applied | |
adj.应用的;v.应用,适用 | |
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11 purely | |
adv.纯粹地,完全地 | |
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12 arable | |
adj.可耕的,适合种植的 | |
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13 squatter | |
n.擅自占地者 | |
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14 divers | |
adj.不同的;种种的 | |
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15 foes | |
敌人,仇敌( foe的名词复数 ) | |
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16 philistines | |
n.市侩,庸人( philistine的名词复数 );庸夫俗子 | |
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17 aboriginals | |
(某国的)公民( aboriginal的名词复数 ); 土著人特征; 土生动物(或植物) | |
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18 canine | |
adj.犬的,犬科的 | |
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19 calves | |
n.(calf的复数)笨拙的男子,腓;腿肚子( calf的名词复数 );牛犊;腓;小腿肚v.生小牛( calve的第三人称单数 );(冰川)崩解;生(小牛等),产(犊);使(冰川)崩解 | |
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20 panacea | |
n.万灵药;治百病的灵药 | |
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21 calf | |
n.小牛,犊,幼仔,小牛皮 | |
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22 extinction | |
n.熄灭,消亡,消灭,灭绝,绝种 | |
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23 antagonist | |
n.敌人,对抗者,对手 | |
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24 dent | |
n.凹痕,凹坑;初步进展 | |
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25 marsupial | |
adj.有袋的,袋状的 | |
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26 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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27 pouch | |
n.小袋,小包,囊状袋;vt.装...入袋中,用袋运输;vi.用袋送信件 | |
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28 scudded | |
v.(尤指船、舰或云彩)笔直、高速而平稳地移动( scud的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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29 interfere | |
v.(in)干涉,干预;(with)妨碍,打扰 | |
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30 wrath | |
n.愤怒,愤慨,暴怒 | |
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31 interfering | |
adj. 妨碍的 动词interfere的现在分词 | |
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32 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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33 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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34 limestone | |
n.石灰石 | |
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35 proprietor | |
n.所有人;业主;经营者 | |
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36 proprietors | |
n.所有人,业主( proprietor的名词复数 ) | |
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37 jointly | |
ad.联合地,共同地 | |
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38 distinguished | |
adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
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39 colonists | |
n.殖民地开拓者,移民,殖民地居民( colonist的名词复数 ) | |
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40 jack | |
n.插座,千斤顶,男人;v.抬起,提醒,扛举;n.(Jake)杰克 | |
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41 inoculated | |
v.给…做预防注射( inoculate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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42 shipping | |
n.船运(发货,运输,乘船) | |
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43 previously | |
adv.以前,先前(地) | |
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44 invaluable | |
adj.无价的,非常宝贵的,极为贵重的 | |
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45 advantageous | |
adj.有利的;有帮助的 | |
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46 progeny | |
n.后代,子孙;结果 | |
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47 cape | |
n.海角,岬;披肩,短披风 | |
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48 wholesale | |
n.批发;adv.以批发方式;vt.批发,成批出售 | |
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49 annexation | |
n.吞并,合并 | |
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50 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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51 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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52 fattening | |
adj.(食物)要使人发胖的v.喂肥( fatten的现在分词 );养肥(牲畜);使(钱)增多;使(公司)升值 | |
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53 contented | |
adj.满意的,安心的,知足的 | |
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54 wilderness | |
n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等,荒漠 | |
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55 intrepid | |
adj.无畏的,刚毅的 | |
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56 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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57 wrecks | |
n.沉船( wreck的名词复数 );(事故中)遭严重毁坏的汽车(或飞机等);(身体或精神上)受到严重损伤的人;状况非常糟糕的车辆(或建筑物等)v.毁坏[毁灭]某物( wreck的第三人称单数 );使(船舶)失事,使遇难,使下沉 | |
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58 savages | |
未开化的人,野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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59 solitude | |
n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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60 majestic | |
adj.雄伟的,壮丽的,庄严的,威严的,崇高的 | |
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61 tract | |
n.传单,小册子,大片(土地或森林) | |
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62 contrived | |
adj.不自然的,做作的;虚构的 | |
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63 dodge | |
v.闪开,躲开,避开;n.妙计,诡计 | |
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64 scotch | |
n.伤口,刻痕;苏格兰威士忌酒;v.粉碎,消灭,阻止;adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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65 curiously | |
adv.有求知欲地;好问地;奇特地 | |
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66 payable | |
adj.可付的,应付的,有利益的 | |
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67 speculation | |
n.思索,沉思;猜测;投机 | |
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68 fattened | |
v.喂肥( fatten的过去式和过去分词 );养肥(牲畜);使(钱)增多;使(公司)升值 | |
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69 mustered | |
v.集合,召集,集结(尤指部队)( muster的过去式和过去分词 );(自他人处)搜集某事物;聚集;激发 | |
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70 celebrated | |
adj.有名的,声誉卓著的 | |
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71 bridle | |
n.笼头,束缚;vt.抑制,约束;动怒 | |
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72 tempting | |
a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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73 genial | |
adj.亲切的,和蔼的,愉快的,脾气好的 | |
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74 abounding | |
adj.丰富的,大量的v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的现在分词 ) | |
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75 ardent | |
adj.热情的,热烈的,强烈的,烈性的 | |
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76 plunge | |
v.跳入,(使)投入,(使)陷入;猛冲 | |
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77 partnership | |
n.合作关系,伙伴关系 | |
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78 doughty | |
adj.勇猛的,坚强的 | |
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79 formerly | |
adv.从前,以前 | |
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80 severed | |
v.切断,断绝( sever的过去式和过去分词 );断,裂 | |
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81 subdivided | |
再分,细分( subdivide的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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82 pecuniarily | |
adv.在金钱上,在金钱方面 | |
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83 specially | |
adv.特定地;特殊地;明确地 | |
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84 creek | |
n.小溪,小河,小湾 | |
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85 eminently | |
adv.突出地;显著地;不寻常地 | |
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