First of all, "that well-known fattening5 station known as Kangatong, with choice herd6 of cattle, stock-horses given in," etc. Then, "that fully7 improved, fenced, and subdivided sheep property, of which the wool is so favourably9 known to Melbourne buyers." Again, "that valuable pastoral estate of Kangatong, comprising 35,000 (let us say) acres of freehold"; and now, lastly, "those[Pg 161] rich agricultural lands, divided into farms to suit purchasers."
All these progressive wonders were to be evolved from the lone10 primeval waste upon which a solitary11 horseman then gazed in the autumn of 1844. And the wand of the squatter-sorcerer was to do it all. I might then have seen lakelets glittering in the sun, orchards12 and cornfields, barns and stables, mansion13 and offices, a village in itself, the spacious14 wool-shed and the scientific wash-pen, had I possessed15 the prophetic eye. But Fate held her secrets closely then as now. Only the vast eucalyptus16 forest, stretching unbroken to the horizon, waved its sombre banners before me. Only the scarce-trodden meadows of the waste lay unfed, untouched around me. I beheld17 a pastoral paradise without so much as a first inhabitant, and at which the very beasts of the field had hardly arrived. It was a spectacle sufficiently18 solemn to have awed19 a democrat20, to have imbued21 even the Arch-Anti——, well, Anti-Capitalist, with some respectful consideration for pioneers, whether in toil22 or triumph. How I appeared on the scene at this particular juncture23 came about in this wise.
When I first arrived in Port Fairy, the "Heifer Station" was what would be called in mining parlance24 "an abandoned claim," and possibly "jumpable," to use another effective expression with which the gold-fields have enriched the Australian vernacular25. Mr. John Cox of Werrongourt had reconsidered his first intention of segregating26 the immature27 females of his herd—probably as too expensive—had withdrawn28 them and their herdsmen, leaving hut and[Pg 162] yards untenanted, the run unoccupied. This last was now for sale with "improvements." I really can't recall the date of that comprehensive euphemism29, which included everything, from a watch-box to a wool-shed, from a brush-yard to a family mansion. Perhaps about the time when the children of married servants advertised for were feelingly referred to as "encumbrances30."
However, improvements and encumbrances notwithstanding, we must get on with our "Heifer Station" history. Here it was for sale, with one hut, one log-yard, and the right to 40,000 acres, more or less, of first-class pasture—for how much? Would I could get the offer again! Thirty pounds! This was the price—everybody knew it. Mr. Cox wanted to sell—had plenty of country at Werrongourt—couldn't be bothered with it. The best thing I could do was to go and see it, or close for it at once. Mr. Cox was in Tasmania just at present, but had, of course, left instructions. Thus far the friendly public. I thought I would go and see. So I mounted Clifton, the grandson of Skeleton, and turned my face to the setting sun. Making my way to Tarrone, where at that time Mr. Chamberlain lived, I explained to him the object of my tourist wandering. I was most hospitably31 received. It turned out afterwards that he had had a hint that I wanted to "sit down" somewhere in his neighbourhood. The runs at that time were, as may be imagined, very sparsely32 stocked. If the Commissioner33 of Crown Lands was in a bad temper, he had the power to "give away" to the interloper a seriously appreciable34 portion of any pastoral area,[Pg 163] however long established and secure the occupant might fancy himself to be.
So, as he afterwards told one of the neighbours, he determined35 to show me every courtesy; after which, appealing to all chivalrous36 feelings in my nature, he felt that I could not, in common decency37, annex38 any portion of his (Mr. Chamberlain's) run. This was a shade of diplomacy39 sometimes roughly described as characteristic of "the old soldier." If so, my host's military experiences, as on another historical occasion, served him well. When I left Tarrone that morning, with a guide, towards the Heifer Station, I would have driven on to Western Australia—a pastoral Vanderdecken—rather than infringe40 on the tolerably liberal boundaries which he claimed for Tarrone.
I rode along and passed the great Tarrone Marsh41, with its well-defined wooded banks and its miles upon miles of mournful reeds, wild-duck and bittern haunted. My guide pointed42 out to me a place where, riding one day a mare43 that he described as "touchy44," by the edge of the marsh, suddenly a blackfellow jumped out from behind a tree—"a savage45 man accoutred proper." The touchy mare gave so sudden a prop8, accompanied by a desperate plunge46, that he was thrown almost at the feet of the "Injun." Others appeared—like Roderick Dhu's clansmen—from every bush and "stony47 rise," which had till this moment sheltered them. He raised himself doubtfully, much expectant of evil; relations had certainly been strained of late between the races. However, they did not (apparently) kill him, he being there to relate the story. I forget what trifle prevented them.
[Pg 164]
Then he proceeded to sketch48 the "lay of the country." Told me (of course) that "I couldn't miss the place if I followed the swamp round for two or three miles, then made for the east a bit, till I came to some thickish country, then to look out for a ti-tree crick as would lead down to the main crick. I'd cut the tracks where they had been tailing the heifers. Then I'd see the hut and yard." He then went on his way, having "to run in a beast to kill," and I saw him no more. No track, no road, no bridle-path was there, no known thoroughfare; while, after you left the great Tarrone Marsh, there was not a landmark49 to speak of within twenty miles, not a bit of open country the size of a corn-patch. A long, solitary, unsatisfactory day lay before me. Sometimes I was pretty sure I was on the "run"; at other times I was confident that I was off it. I found the creek50 a minute but permanent-looking rivulet51, with occasional water-holes. The hut and yards were on this watercourse; both inexpensive structures. I saw, however, that the whole country-side was covered with a sward of kangaroo grass two or three feet high, and as thick as a field of barley52. No doubt it was good fattening country, but I did not take to it somehow. It was a "blind" place, in stock-riders' phrase—no open country, no contrasts, no romance about it in fact. "Toujours gum-tree," as Sir Edward Deas Thomson said when he drove Sir Charles Fitzroy and Colonel Mundy—somewhere about that time—with a four-in-hand drag to Coombing, near Carcoar. I didn't fancy it altogether, good though the grass undoubtedly53 was. I managed to make my way back to Tarrone that[Pg 165] night, where I recruited after the toils54 of the day. I informed my gallant55 and politic56 host that I thought I should go farther west. We parted on the morrow—to his relief, doubtless—with feelings of high mutual57 consideration.
Years afterwards we had many a laugh about the fright I gave him; and when I was safely settled at Squattlesea Mere58, less than twenty miles to the westward59, I nearly concluded an agreement with him to rent Tarrone for five years, with the option of purchase, while he went to England. This was a year or two before the gold. The rental60 asked for run, herd (the same numbers, ages, and sexes to be returned), and homestead was calculated upon the fat cattle prices of the period—￡2 : 10s. for cows, ￡3 for fat bullocks; so was the purchase money. I often thought how awfully61 sold my friend and neighbour would have been, as a shrewd man of business, not wholly unmindful of the main chance, had I closed with his offer. I finally declined it on the ground of the run being fully stocked up—our bête noir in those deliciously simple days, when we thought it took ten acres, more or less, to fatten4 a bullock.
But though it was not considered good form to settle down too close to a man's horse paddock, it would never have done to have taken the first occupier's word for what was his lawful62 right of run. By his own account there was never any permanent water "out back." All the decent land within twenty miles was his; the best thing the intending pastoralist could do was to go clean out of the district. Had the Dunmore people listened thus dutifully to Mr.[Pg 166] Hunter of Eumeralla, they would never have taken up Dunmore, which, in the future, turned out a more valuable property than Eumeralla.
Nor would the Messrs. Aplin have got St. Kitts, the runs of Yambuk and Tarrone being popularly supposed to absorb all the available country between their boundaries. Mr. Lemann, however, managed to insert himself and his belongings63, wedge-fashion, between Tarrone and Kangatong, on the border of the Tarrone Marsh. Though small of stature64, and not stalwart, he held his own, and fattened65 a decent average of his herd of 1000 or 1200 head annually66 until he sold out to Mr. Smith. Mr. Lemann had formerly67 been a kind of neighbour of ours, having fed his herd previously68 in the vicinity of a creek running into the Upper Yarra, near a flat which, if I mistake not, is known as "Lemann's Swamp" to this day.
He was a well-informed man, who took a great interest in liberal politics. I well recollect69 his being filled with righteous wrath70 at the high-handed act of Rajah Brooke in making a clean sweep of a fleet of pirates. I said then, and have since been confirmed in my opinion, that the gallant ruler of Sarawak knew his business better than his Exeter Hall critics.
Mr. Lemann had for working overseer and general stand-between him and personal exertion71 a country Englishman named Tom Cook, who with his wife managed everything that his stock-rider Hugh was not responsible for. I took some interest in the family, as we had hired Thomas aforesaid from the emigrant72 vessel73 as ploughman, and he had been in our service in that capacity at Heidelberg. From[Pg 167] the fair-haired, fresh-coloured English farm labourer that he was then, I watched his development through various stages of colonial experience—into dairyman, knock-about-man, bullock-driver, and finally stock-rider at Kangatong. I rather think he had his smock-frock when he came to us, with English rustic74 tongue and gait. When I afterwards saw him at Mr. Smith's muster75 (I had sold Mr. Gibb, the dealer76, who was lifting the fat cattle there, an additional drove, just started for Melbourne, at ￡8 all round, cash) he was quite the stock-rider of the period, with neat boots and seat to match, a sharp eye for calves77, and, alas1! a colonially-acquired taste for grog, and a fight afterwards, if possible.
However, such were only occasional recreations, between which he was a first-rate worker and most worthy78 fellow. He and his good wife reared a family of Australian-born East Saxons; his eldest79 son—a tall fellow with a team of his own, grown a carrier—took away the first load of wool I ever sent from Squattlesea Mere, in 1862 or thereabouts.
Among other things in which Cook showed his power of adaptation was the building of a stone cottage and dairy for Mr. Lemann. The country being of volcanic80 formation, stone to any amount was on hand, and he principally built the walls, nearly two feet in thickness, of a very snug81 bachelor establishment—a vast improvement, both in summer and winter, upon the ordinary slab82 architecture.
After deciding not to buy Mr. Cox's heifer station, I happened to be staying at Grasmere, when I met, one evening, two strange gentlemen, a mile or two from the place, coming along rather travel-worn as[Pg 168] to their steeds. These were my worthy friends James Dawson, now of Camperdown, and his friend and partner Mr. Selby. They, like Mr. Lemann, had been trying to make cattle pay on the Upper Yarra ranges—had, like him, concluded to start for the west country, then reported to be the best grass going, and not all taken up. They speedily heard of Mr. Cox having a station for sale, and he soon after returning from Tasmania, Mr. Dawson closed with him for the ￡30 or thereabouts. Messrs. Dawson and Selby shortly afterwards brought up their cattle, and, with their belongings, occupied the run. I always suspected Mr. Dawson, who was philologically83 inclined, to have extracted the name Kangatong from the aborigines subsequently, and christened the run after his arrival. It was among the things not generally known before his advent84. Gradually and judiciously85, as time passed on, Kangatong was improved, and so successfully managed that it took rank as one of the best paying stations in the district. Mr. Dawson and his family showed exceptional kindness towards the blacks who lived near them. Kangatong was just outside of the "tauri," or hereditary86 district of "the Children of the Rocks," or matters might not have continued so pacific, my old friend being of a temper singularly intolerant of injustice87. But his tribelet had long mingled88 with the whalers of the Port, from which they were distant less than twenty miles. I doubt Port Fairy Campbell and his merry men had "civilised" them previously—i.e. shot a few of the more troublesome individuals. However, Mr. Dawson succeeded in making a valuable collection of data, from which[Pg 169] he was enabled to publish his late work upon the manners, language, and religious customs of certain Australian aboriginals89, which has received favourable90 mention from the Saturday and other leading reviews.
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1
alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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subdivided
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| 再分，细分( subdivide的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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transformation
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| n.变化；改造；转变 | |
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fatten
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| v.使肥，变肥 | |
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fattening
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| adj.（食物）要使人发胖的v.喂肥( fatten的现在分词 )；养肥（牲畜）；使（钱）增多；使（公司）升值 | |
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herd
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| n.兽群，牧群；vt.使集中，把…赶在一起 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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prop
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| vt.支撑；n.支柱，支撑物；支持者，靠山 | |
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favourably
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| adv. 善意地，赞成地 =favorably | |
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lone
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| adj.孤寂的，单独的；唯一的 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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orchards
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| （通常指围起来的）果园( orchard的名词复数 ) | |
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mansion
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| n.大厦，大楼；宅第 | |
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spacious
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| adj.广阔的，宽敞的 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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eucalyptus
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| n.桉树，桉属植物 | |
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beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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awed
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| adj.充满敬畏的，表示敬畏的v.使敬畏，使惊惧( awe的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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democrat
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| n.民主主义者，民主人士；民主党党员 | |
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imbued
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| v.使（某人/某事）充满或激起（感情等）( imbue的过去式和过去分词 )；使充满；灌输；激发（强烈感情或品质等） | |
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toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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juncture
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| n.时刻，关键时刻，紧要关头 | |
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parlance
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| n.说法；语调 | |
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vernacular
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| adj.地方的，用地方语写成的；n.白话；行话；本国语；动植物的俗名 | |
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segregating
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| （使）分开( segregate的现在分词 )； 分离； 隔离； 隔离并区别对待（不同种族、宗教或性别的人） | |
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immature
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| adj.未成熟的，发育未全的，未充分发展的 | |
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withdrawn
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| vt.收回；使退出；vi.撤退，退出 | |
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euphemism
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| n.婉言，委婉的说法 | |
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encumbrances
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| n.负担( encumbrance的名词复数 )；累赘；妨碍；阻碍 | |
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hospitably
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| 亲切地，招待周到地，善于款待地 | |
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sparsely
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| adv.稀疏地；稀少地；不足地；贫乏地 | |
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commissioner
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| n.（政府厅、局、处等部门）专员，长官，委员 | |
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appreciable
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| adj.明显的，可见的，可估量的，可觉察的 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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chivalrous
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| adj.武士精神的；对女人彬彬有礼的 | |
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decency
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| n.体面，得体，合宜，正派，庄重 | |
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annex
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| vt.兼并，吞并；n.附属建筑物 | |
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diplomacy
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| n.外交；外交手腕，交际手腕 | |
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infringe
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| v.违反，触犯，侵害 | |
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marsh
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| n.沼泽，湿地 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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mare
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| n.母马，母驴 | |
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touchy
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| adj.易怒的；棘手的 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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plunge
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| v.跳入，(使)投入，(使)陷入；猛冲 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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48
sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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landmark
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| n.陆标，划时代的事，地界标 | |
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50
creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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51
rivulet
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| n.小溪，小河 | |
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barley
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| n.大麦，大麦粒 | |
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undoubtedly
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| adv.确实地，无疑地 | |
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54
toils
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| 网 | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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politic
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| adj.有智虑的；精明的；v.从政 | |
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mutual
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| adj.相互的，彼此的；共同的，共有的 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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rental
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| n.租赁，出租，出租业 | |
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awfully
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| adv.可怕地，非常地，极端地 | |
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lawful
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| adj.法律许可的，守法的，合法的 | |
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belongings
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| n.私人物品，私人财物 | |
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stature
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| n.（高度）水平，（高度）境界，身高，身材 | |
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fattened
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| v.喂肥( fatten的过去式和过去分词 )；养肥（牲畜）；使（钱）增多；使（公司）升值 | |
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annually
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| adv.一年一次，每年 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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recollect
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| v.回忆，想起，记起，忆起，记得 | |
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wrath
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| n.愤怒，愤慨，暴怒 | |
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exertion
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| n.尽力，努力 | |
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emigrant
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| adj.移居的，移民的；n.移居外国的人，移民 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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rustic
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| adj.乡村的，有乡村特色的；n.乡下人，乡巴佬 | |
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muster
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| v.集合，收集，鼓起，激起；n.集合，检阅，集合人员，点名册 | |
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dealer
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| n.商人，贩子 | |
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calves
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| n.(calf的复数)笨拙的男子，腓；腿肚子( calf的名词复数 )；牛犊；腓；小腿肚v.生小牛( calve的第三人称单数 )；（冰川）崩解；生（小牛等），产（犊）；使（冰川）崩解 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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eldest
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| adj.最年长的，最年老的 | |
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80
volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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81
snug
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| adj.温暖舒适的，合身的，安全的；v.使整洁干净，舒适地依靠，紧贴；n.（英）酒吧里的私房 | |
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82
slab
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| n.平板，厚的切片；v.切成厚板，以平板盖上 | |
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83
philologically
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| adv.语言学上 | |
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84
advent
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| n.(重要事件等的)到来，来临 | |
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85
judiciously
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| adv.明断地，明智而审慎地 | |
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86
hereditary
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| adj.遗传的，遗传性的，可继承的，世袭的 | |
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87
injustice
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| n.非正义，不公正，不公平，侵犯（别人的）权利 | |
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88
mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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89
aboriginals
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| （某国的）公民( aboriginal的名词复数 )； 土著人特征； 土生动物（或植物） | |
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favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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