[Pg 180]
This romantically-named suburb was seven miles from Melbourne, with an unmade road through black soil of considerable richness, and a tenacity6, when resolved into mud, which I have, during much after-experience, rarely seen equalled. It might have appeared to some persons a matter of supererogation this planting one's self so many miles away from an infant settlement, such as Melbourne then was. A matter involving loss of time, too, expense in transit7, besides exile from whatever society was then available. But these considerations availed not against the charming prospect8 of a rural home, a country-house surrounded by an estate of fertile land, bordered by the clear-flowing Yarra, and glorified9 by a distant prospect of the Australian Alps. But chiefly alluring10 were the persuasive11 tongue, the sanguine12 predictions, and the enjoyable al fresco13 entertainments of Mr. R. H. Brown, a social celebrity14 of the day, fashionable and distinguished15, generally known, from his reminiscent enthusiasm on the subject of the grand European tour, as Continental16 Brown.
This sentimental17 speculator, most refined of land agents, had, either personally or as deputy for a firm of Sydney capitalists, purchased a block of land extending nearly from the Darebin Creek18 to the village, and comprising the estates of Chelsworth, Waverley, Hartlands, and Leighton. There was also a section named Maltravers. I am not sure, indeed, whether he did not christen the whole block "Maltravers," in compliment to the Master upon whose melancholy19, philosophical20, resistless hero so many of the viveurs of the day fashioned themselves.
[Pg 181]
Slight, vivacious21, soigné in dress and courteous22 of manner, a good business man (was he not a bank director in his leisure moments, that is, when he was not giving dinners and déjeuners, getting up picnics, improvising23 balls and generally faisant l'agréable all round?), he managed to "place" Heidelberg at a considerable advance upon the original purchase money.
I can see him now in the centre of a group of admiring friends, chiefly of the fair sex, standing24 on one of the heights which overlooked the meadows of the Yarra. "There, my dear madam, permit me to direct your gaze. Do you not observe the silver thread of the river winding25 through that exquisite26 green valley? It reminds me so vividly27 of the gliding28 Neckar, and, alas29! (here a most telling sigh) of scenes, of friends, loved and lost. I can fancy that I look at my ever-remembered, ever-regretted Heidelberg! Those slopes rising from the farther river-shore will be terraced vineyards; and there, where you can faintly discern the snow pinnacle30 on yon spur of the Australian Alps, I can imagine the grand outline of the Hartz Mountains. It is, it shall be, Heidelberg! Charles, open more champagne31. We must christen this thrice-favoured spot, on this trebly-auspicious day, worthily32, irrevocably!"
In some such fashion Heidelberg was named, and, what was more to the purpose, sold. It is undeniably strong as to scenery, superior as to soil; it has water privileges; but seeing that all this happened a trifle over forty years agone, it may strike the original investors34 who still hold a [Pg 182]proportion of the ground, that they might have laid out their cash to greater advantage, and that they have waited a good while for that advance in prices which will recoup everything.
Heidelberg, thus sponsored, took rank as a fashionable suburb, and divers35 personages, according to an inevitable36 natural law, were attracted thereto. Captain George Brunswick Smyth, formerly37 of her Majesty's 50th Regiment38, purchased Chelsworth. Mr. David M'Arthur came next to him. Then Waverley and Hartlands, the Rev33. John Bolden, Mr. Hawdon at Banyule, and later on Dr. Martin, beyond him again.
Still more distant, on the Rosanna estate, dwelt no less a potentate39 than Mr. Justice Willis, the Supreme40 Court Rhadamanthus of the day, who must have expended41 considerably42 more than half his time in driving in his carriage and pair into Melbourne and back along the miry, almost impassable track into which the winter rains invariably converted the road.
This not undistinguished legal celebrity we had known in Sydney, and he presented himself to my youthful intelligence as a good-natured, mild-mannered old gentleman, with whom I used to go quail43 and duck shooting in the meadows bordering the Yarra on Mr. Hawdon's and neighbouring estates. On these occasions the late Mr. Archibald Thom, who rented part of Banyule from Mr. Hawdon, often accompanied us. And a very deadly shot he was.
The Judge shot fairly well, and after a decent morning's sport was genial44 and gracious in a marked degree. But when he doffed45 the russet tweeds and[Pg 183] donned the ermine, he became utterly46 transformed. It was averred47, too, altogether for the worse. His impatience48 of contradiction, his acerbity49 of manner, and his infirmity of temper, were painful to witness, and dangerous to encounter. They landed him in contentions50 with all sorts and conditions of men, and ultimately led to his suspension by the Governor-General, a rare and exceptional proceeding51.
I quote here verbatim from my journal, of date Wednesday, 3rd August 1841:—
Nothing particular happened on the farm to-day, but the whole of Melbourne was in a commotion52 about His Honour Judge Willis. It appears that His Honour having said that he would commit anybody who offered to serve the order upon him to go to Sydney, signed by the three judges there resident, as being illegal, was met by Messrs. Carrington and Ebden, who tendered the order to him, and, upon his refusing to take it, actually threw it at him, upon which he immediately committed them to gaol53. There was a great crowd, many of whom supported the Judge, but others the prisoners. Some gentlemen, however, were present and saw the insult offered.
On the following day's page I find further allusion54 to this "high-toned" episode in Melbourne's early life.
Thursday, 4th August 1841.
The gentlemen who insulted the Judge yesterday were brought up before the Magistrates55 in order that they might be committed to take their trial. However, strange to say, in spite of the evidence of four or five respectable persons who swore to the outrage56, the worthy57 gentlemen were acquitted58. There were, however, upon the Bench several personal enemies of the Judge. Many persons are of opinion that the decision is infamous59.
It will be seen that we then distinctly sided with His Irascibility, and would doubtless have been a[Pg 184] vigorous partisan60 against the "personal enemies" had we written for the press of the period. However, in spite of our sympathies, and those of other well-meaning friends, His Honour Mr. Justice Willis was compelled to go to Sydney, thence to England. It was understood that he there gained a technical victory, but had a hint to resign.
Mr. Thomas Wills owned "Lucerne," close by Alphington, the village on the Darebin Creek since called into being and so named. He had a fancy for the great fodder61 plant, and was the first proprietor62 in the neighbourhood to lay down any considerable breadth of land with it. From it, or as a souvenir of the world-renowned lake, the estate was named.
I don't know that the Heidelberg proprietors63 could be called a fortunate community. Something of the nature of disaster happened to all of them. Possibly in the course of three or four decades an average of misfortune occurs in most families. But our district was exceptional. The wreck64 of the London brought mourning and lifelong grief into one family. Cheery, kindly65 Joe Hawdon, the pioneer, the explorer, the jolly squire66 of Banyule, died when scarce over middle age. The Bolden family lost two sons who had arrived at man's estate—one killed by a fall from his horse; one, a young officer rising in the service, by a tiger in India. Our house, endeared by many memories, was burned by an incendiary, still undiscovered. A tree fell on our good friend and neighbour, Mr. M'Arthur, and very nearly crushed the life out of him. Captain Smyth died young, and Lucerne has[Pg 185] long been untenanted by any representative of the Wills family.
Some of these fine days, they tell me, there will be a railway to Heidelberg. Then the slopes will be cut up into building sites, the river meadows irrigated67, or turned into market gardens and creameries. The Australian Alps will be more visible to the naked eye than ever. Some squatter68 from Riverina or Queensland, who has just disposed of his stations for half-a-million to a syndicate, will build an imitation of the historic Castle, with the Great Tun, to be filled with White Yering. Dances of vignerons or happy peasants will be frequent; and Mr. R. H. Brown, if still in the flesh, may see his prophetic vision so nearly fulfilled that it will hardly be worth his while to return to a continental Elysium. But, sentiment apart, there was a flavour of real country life about the district, protected as it was from intrusion on the east and north-east by the deep unforded river, in which more than one death took place from drowning. Heidelberg, apparently69, always had attractions for men whose sympathies lay in the direction of stud farms and the improvement of stock. Chelsworth then, as later on, was the home of pedigree shorthorns, Captain Brunswick Smyth having imported cows of very blue blood, which passed into Mr. Bolden's possession, and were incorporated with the Grasmere herd70. Mahomet, Young Mussulman, Lady Vane and her daughter were located at Leighton; whilst "Snoozer" by "Muley Moloch," and other sires of high lineage, abode71 hard by. Yes; in some respects the devoted72 admirer of Bulwer Lytton had not over-coloured the landscape. [Pg 186]Heidelberg was undeniably picturesque73, and had climatic advantages. It was cooler than the sand-dunes of Brighton and St. Kilda, than the low hills of Toorak, than the river meadow upon which Melbourne proper then chiefly stood. Waves of mountain air were wafted74 from the Alps, on which, though many miles distant, the snow was clearly visible. Those of us who, in after years, were members of the old Melbourne Club in Lower Collins Street, often preferred a longish night ride for the immunity75 from mosquitoes which Heidelberg then afforded.
The river meadows by the Yarra were composed of a deep, black, fertile loam76, eminently77 suited for orchards78, cereals, and root crops. Taking into consideration the quality of the soil, the proximity79 of the river, the variety of the landscape, no suburb would have equalled Heidelberg in attractiveness had it not been handicapped by distance from the metropolis80. Rail, road traffic, and settlement—all appeared to have gone north, south, west; anywhere but towards Heidelberg.
Now that every foot of building land near Melbourne has been bought and built upon—has become "terraced slopes," in the evil sense of modern overcrowding, perhaps the beneficent Heidelberg and Alphington Railway will open up the untouched glades81 which still silently overlook the murmuring river, still lie hushed to sleep in the shadow of the great Australian mountain chain.
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1
colonists
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| n.殖民地开拓者，移民，殖民地居民( colonist的名词复数 ) | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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frivolous
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| adj.轻薄的；轻率的 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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permanently
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| adv.永恒地，永久地，固定不变地 | |
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6
tenacity
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| n.坚韧 | |
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transit
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| n.经过，运输；vt.穿越，旋转；vi.越过 | |
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8
prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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glorified
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| 美其名的，变荣耀的 | |
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alluring
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| adj.吸引人的，迷人的 | |
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persuasive
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| adj.有说服力的，能说得使人相信的 | |
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12
sanguine
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| adj.充满希望的，乐观的，血红色的 | |
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13
fresco
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| n.壁画；vt.作壁画于 | |
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14
celebrity
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| n.名人，名流；著名，名声，名望 | |
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15
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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16
continental
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| adj.大陆的，大陆性的，欧洲大陆的 | |
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17
sentimental
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| adj.多愁善感的，感伤的 | |
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18
creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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19
melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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20
philosophical
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| adj.哲学家的，哲学上的，达观的 | |
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21
vivacious
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| adj.活泼的，快活的 | |
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courteous
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| adj.彬彬有礼的，客气的 | |
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23
improvising
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| 即兴创作（improvise的现在分词形式） | |
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24
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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25
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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26
exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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vividly
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| adv.清楚地，鲜明地，生动地 | |
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gliding
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| v. 滑翔 adj. 滑动的 | |
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alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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30
pinnacle
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| n.尖塔，尖顶，山峰；(喻)顶峰 | |
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31
champagne
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| n.香槟酒；微黄色 | |
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32
worthily
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| 重要地，可敬地，正当地 | |
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33
rev
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| v.发动机旋转，加快速度 | |
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34
investors
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| n.投资者，出资者( investor的名词复数 ) | |
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35
divers
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| adj.不同的；种种的 | |
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36
inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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37
formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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38
regiment
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| n.团，多数，管理；v.组织，编成团，统制 | |
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potentate
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| n.统治者；君主 | |
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40
supreme
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| adj.极度的，最重要的；至高的，最高的 | |
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41
expended
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| v.花费( expend的过去式和过去分词 )；使用（钱等）做某事；用光；耗尽 | |
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42
considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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43
quail
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| n.鹌鹑；vi.畏惧，颤抖 | |
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44
genial
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| adj.亲切的，和蔼的，愉快的，脾气好的 | |
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45
doffed
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| v.脱去，（尤指）脱帽( doff的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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46
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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47
averred
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| v.断言( aver的过去式和过去分词 )；证实；证明…属实；作为事实提出 | |
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48
impatience
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| n.不耐烦，急躁 | |
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49
acerbity
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| n.涩，酸，刻薄 | |
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50
contentions
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| n.竞争( contention的名词复数 )；争夺；争论；论点 | |
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51
proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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52
commotion
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| n.骚动，动乱 | |
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53
gaol
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| n.(jail)监狱；(不加冠词)监禁；vt.使…坐牢 | |
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54
allusion
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| n.暗示，间接提示 | |
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55
magistrates
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| 地方法官，治安官( magistrate的名词复数 ) | |
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56
outrage
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| n.暴行，侮辱，愤怒；vt.凌辱，激怒 | |
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57
worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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58
acquitted
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| 宣判…无罪( acquit的过去式和过去分词 )； 使（自己）作出某种表现 | |
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59
infamous
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| adj.声名狼藉的，臭名昭著的，邪恶的 | |
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60
partisan
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| adj.党派性的；游击队的；n.游击队员；党徒 | |
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61
fodder
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| n.草料；炮灰 | |
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62
proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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proprietors
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| n.所有人，业主( proprietor的名词复数 ) | |
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64
wreck
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| n.失事，遇难；沉船；vt.(船等)失事，遇难 | |
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65
kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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66
squire
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| n.护卫, 侍从, 乡绅 | |
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67
irrigated
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| [医]冲洗的 | |
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68
squatter
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| n.擅自占地者 | |
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69
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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70
herd
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| n.兽群，牧群；vt.使集中，把…赶在一起 | |
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71
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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72
devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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73
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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74
wafted
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| v.吹送，飘送，（使）浮动( waft的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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75
immunity
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| n.优惠；免除；豁免，豁免权 | |
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76
loam
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| n.沃土 | |
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77
eminently
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| adv.突出地；显著地；不寻常地 | |
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78
orchards
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| （通常指围起来的）果园( orchard的名词复数 ) | |
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proximity
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| n.接近，邻近 | |
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80
metropolis
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| n.首府；大城市 | |
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81
glades
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| n.林中空地( glade的名词复数 ) | |
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