We forded the Yarra below Mr. D. C. M'Arthur's orchard1, and crossing a heavily-timbered river-flat, with deep reed-fringed lagoons2, debouched on the up-river road. This particular locality was well known to me, inasmuch as, being formerly4 in our pastoral possession, it had constituted a species of "chase" in my early sporting days. The only denizens5 of that period were an occasional pair of sawyers, generally "Derwenters," as the Tasmanian expirees were called, thither6 attracted by the unusual size and straightness of the timber which grew in the flats and "bends" of the winding7 Yarra.
Owing to the sinuous8 shape of the lagoons on the south side of the river, coupled with the dense9 nature of the thickets10, it was not an easy matter for a stranger to find his way through the maze11. It[Pg 201] naturally came to be, therefore, the happy hunting ground of my boyhood; many a grand day's sport and thrilling adventure did I have therein.
The largest lagoon3 was fringed with a wide border of reeds, growing in deep water. It had in the centre a clear lakelet or mere12, upon the lonely waters of which disported13 the mountain duck, with his black and other congeners, the greater and lesser14 grebe; while among the reeds waded15 or flew the heron (Ardea australis), the sultana water-hen, a red-billed variety of the coot, the bittern, the land-rail, and in the season an occasional flock of pied geese or black swans.
To approach the wild-fowl in the open mere was a work of difficulty, if not of danger, inasmuch as the water was too deep for wading16, and the entanglement17 with weeds—which then cost more than one strong swimmer his life—was not out of the reckoning. I did once struggle to the verge18 of total exhaustion19 within the green meshes20 of one of these weed nets, in a lonely pool in which I had to swim for a black duck. The thought uppermost in my mind was that it would be such a time before I should be found, in case of—an accident which didn't come off. I used to circumvent21 my feathered friends in the horse-shoe lagoon by climbing a tree upon the slope which lay opposite. From this coign of vantage I could see the birds swimming in fancied security, and lay plans accordingly. In order to open fire with effect, I had caused to be conveyed a light canoe, which one of my sawyer friends had neatly22 scooped23 out for me, into the outer mere among the reeds. It was in waist-deep water—carefully [Pg 202]concealed, and I could, of course, gain it unseen. Paddling or pulling it through the outer reed-brake, I ensconced myself at the edge of the clear water, waiting patiently until the unsuspecting birds sailed past. Once I remember getting two couple of black duck. An occasional goose, or even the lordly swan, found its way into my bag.
Once, as I had planned a day's shooting, I was startled by seeing a flock of ducks wheeling around, and finally making straight for the South Pole, as if decided24 not to return for a year. Gazing angrily around to discern the cause of this untoward25 migration26, I descried27 a man carefully got up in correct shooting rig emerge from the reeds. Half-paralysed by the audacity28 of the unknown—this was years before the free-selection discovery—I sat still in my saddle for one moment. Then, as the enormity of the offence—trespass on our run—rose before me, I dashed spurs into my horse and charged the offender29.
"What's your name, and what do you mean by coming here to shoot and frighten the ducks?" I called out, stopping my frantic30 steed within a few feet of him. "Don't you know whose ground you're on?"
The unknown looked calmly at me with a rather amused countenance31 (I was about fourteen, and scarcely looked my age), and then said, "Who the devil are you?"
"My name's Boldrewood," I returned, "and this is our run, and no one has any right to come here and shoot or do anything else without my father's leave."
"Gad32! I thought it was the Lord of the Manor33[Pg 203] at least! You're a smart youngster, but I don't know that there are any game laws in this country. What are you going to do with me for instance?"
The stranger turned out to be a guest at a neighbouring station. There were cattle stations in the vicinity in those days. Anyhow, we compromised matters and finished the day together.
Not far from the spot the late John Hunter Kerr, afterwards of Fernihurst, had a veritable cattle station. I attended one of the musters35 for a purpose. The cattle were in the yard, with various stock-riders and neighbours sitting around, preparatory to drafting, as I rode up, attended by a sable36 retainer driving a horse and cart.
What did I please to want? "I've come for our black J. B. bullock," said I. "He has been running with your cattle these two years, and I thought he would most likely come in with your muster34."
"He is here sure enough, and in fine order, but how are you going to take him home? He always clears the yard when we begin to draft, and no stock-rider about here can drive him single-handed."
"I'll take him home fast enough," returned I, with colonial confidence, "if he'll stay in the yard long enough for me to shoot him."
"Oh, that's the idea," quoth Mr. Kerr. "Go to work; only don't miss him or drop any of my cattle."
"No fear."
Old Harvey, an expatriated countryman of Cetewayo's, handed me my single-barrelled fowling-piece, a generally useful weapon, which had been loaded with ball for the occasion. I walked cautiously[Pg 204] through the staring, wildish cattle, to the middle of the yard, where stood the big black bullock. He lowered his head, and began to paw the ground. I made a low bovine37 murmur38, which I had found effective before; he raises his head and looks full at me for a second. The bullet crashes into the forehead "curl," and the huge savage39 lies prone—a quivering mass. Harvey promptly40 performs the necessary phlebotomy, and being dragged out of the yard, the black ox is skinned, quartered, and on his way to the beef-cask at Hartlands well within twenty minutes of his downfall.
Years after, when a full-fledged Riverina squatter41, Mr. Kerr and I met in partibus. He at length recalled my name and locale, remarking, "Oh yes! remember now; you were the boy that shot the black bullock in my yard at South Yarra long ago."
Well, Mr. Bolden and I ride along the winding, gravelly bush road, over ranges that skirt and at times leave the course of the river wholly, not seeing a house or a soul, except Mr. Gardiner's dairy farm, for more than twenty miles. The country, in an agricultural and pastoral point of view, is as bad as can be. Thick—i.e. scrubby, poor in soil, scanty42 as to pasture, when all suddenly, as is so often the case in Australia, we come upon a "mountain park."
We cross a running creek43 by a bridge. We see a flock of sheep and a shepherd, the genuine "old hand" of the period. The slopes are gently rising towards the encircling highlands, the timber is pleasingly distributed, the soil, the pasture, has improved. We are in a new country. We have entered upon[Pg 205] Yering proper, a veritable oasis45 in this unredeemed stringy-bark desert.
How Mr. William Ryrie, in the year 1837 or 1838, brought his flocks and herds46 and general pioneer equipment straight across country from Arnprior in far Monaro in New South Wales, hitting precisely47 upon this tenantless48 lodge49 in the wilderness50, will always be a marvel51. It was one of the feats52 which the earlier explorers occasionally performed, showing their fitness for the heroic work of colonisation, wherein so many of them risked life and limb. With the great pastoral wild of Australia Felix lying virgin53 and unappropriated before him, Mr. Ryrie might easily have made a more profitable, a more expansive choice. But he could not have hit upon a more ideal spot for the founding of an estate and the formation of a homestead had he searched the continent.
Amid the variously-gathered outfit54 which accompanied the pastoral chief, as he led flocks, herds, and retainers through unknown wilds to the far promised land, happened to be some roots of the tree, the survival of which caused Noah so much uneasiness, and more or less humbled55 his descendants, before John Jameson and Co. took up the running with the now fashionable product of the harmless avena. A few grape vines reached the spot unharmed. Planted in the first orchard on the rich alluvial56 of the broad river-flat which fronted the cottage, they grew and flourished, so richly that the area devoted57 to the vine was soon enlarged. From such small beginning arose the vineyards of Yering and St. Hubert's. From those, again, Messrs. de Pury and others[Pg 206] planted the wine-producing district which has now a European reputation.
Little of this, however, was apparent to my companion and myself, or we might have been entertaining royalty58 by this time—who knows?—carrying ourselves like other eminent59 and gilded60 colonists61, envied by everybody and sneered62 at by our less fortunate compatriots. We rode steadily63 on, through hill and hollow, past plump cattle, not, however, showing quite so much white and roan as do the present herds; past a "manada" of mares and foals, from which ran out to challenge our steeds Clifton the Second, "with flying mane and arching crest65." Finally we ride up to a neat weatherboard cottage, whence issues our kindly66, warm-hearted host, breathing welcome and hospitality in every tone of his jolly voice. We were soon enjoying the change of sensation, which after a thirty-mile ride is of itself a luxury. With him as visitors were "Hobbie" Elliot, a well-known squatter of the period, and a stalwart younger brother just out from home.
The cottage, as I remember it then, was built upon a slight elevation67 overlooking a richly-grassed meadow, below which the Yarra, not much less wide and rapid than near Melbourne, ran its winding course. On the farther side of the river, looking eastward68, was a purple-shadowed mountain, apparently69, though not in reality, overhanging the stream. In the dimmer distance rose the vast snow-crowned range of the Australian Alps. We walked about after our afternoon meal, admiring the great growth of the trees in the garden, and the picturesque70 appearance of things generally.
[Pg 207]
On the next day we took a long ride, and, I well remember, crossed the river upon a primitive71 bridge, which enables me to say to this day that I have ridden across a river upon a single tree. It was even so. An enormous eucalyptus72 (E. amygdalina), growing upon the bank of the Yarra, had been felled or grubbed—I think the latter—so as to fall across the stream. Afterwards it had been adzed level—a hand-rail had been supplied. A quiet horse could therefore be easily led or ridden across to the other side, the width being an average of three feet.
We crossed that way, I know, next day, and had a look at the Heifer Station, as the trans-Yarra run was then called. It was a sort of Yering in miniature, not so open, and much smaller. To it, however, our host was compelled to retire, when (upon how many good fellows has the same fate fallen?) he made a compulsory73 sale to Paul de Castella and his partner, another Swiss gentleman. Fortunately for him, pastoral property rose in value prodigiously74 "after the gold," so that he was enabled to sell the heifer station for five times as much as he got for Yering.
However, "unconscious of our doom," we took a long and pleasant ride through ferny dales, and darksome woods where the giant eucalypti75 reared their heads to heaven. We watched the sparkling streamlets dash down their course from alpine76 heights, praised the cattle and horses, and returned with appetites of the most superior description. Our chief adventure was in crossing a water-laden flat, when Mr. Elliot, jun., raised his long legs high on his horse's sides to escape splashing. That[Pg 208] animal, being young and "touchy," immediately exhibited a fair imitation of that well-known Australian gambade known as "buck-jumping." For the honour of Scotia, however, our friend, new chum as he was, stuck to the pigskin, and was justly applauded at the end of the performance.
Live stock were cruelly low about that time—￡1 a head for store bullocks, and so on. Fat cattle were never worth more than ￡3 each, often considerably77 under that modest price. The expense of stock-management bore hard upon receipts, particularly when the proprietor78 had not inherited the saving grace of "screwiness." Our host, gallant79, generous, warm-hearted William Ryrie, was not in that line; far otherwise. As a matter of fact, Yering was sold to Messrs. de Castella and Co., within a year of our visit, for two or three thousand pounds—some such trifle, at any rate.
So Yering passed into the hands of another good fellow. Though "foreign," and not "to the manor born," he quickly demonstrated his ability to acquire the leading principles of stock-management. Of course, the gold came to his aid, causing the cattle he had purchased at ￡2 each to be worth ￡8 or ￡10, and in other ways making things easy for an enterprising pastoralist. Besides managing the herd44 satisfactorily, Mr. de Castella saw his way to developing the vineyard, enlarging it twenty or fifty fold, besides building cellars, wine-presses, and all the adjuncts of scientific vine-culture. He imported French or Swiss vignerons, and commenced to acquire that high reputation for "white and red Yering" Hermitage which remains80 unblemished to this day.
[Pg 209]
Years afterwards, when the tide of pastoral prosperity throughout the colonies was high and unwavering, I made another visit to the spot, under different circumstances and in far other company. A large party had been invited by Mr. and Mrs. de Castella to spend a week at Yering, when a picnic, a dance, and all sorts of al fresco81 entertainments were included in the programme.
We were to meet at Fairlie House, South Yarra, and the day being propitious82, the gathering83 was successful; the cortège decidedly imposing84. Charlie Lyon's four-in-hand drag led the way; Lloyd Jones's and Rawdon Greene's mail phaetons, with carriages and dog-carts, following in line—it was a small Derby day. The greater proportion of the ladies were accommodated in the vehicles. There were horsemen, too, of the party. The commissariat had been sent on at an early hour, accompanied by a German band, retained for the occasion, to a convenient halting place for luncheon85. As we rattled86 along the broad, straight roads of Kew we saw hedges of roses, orchards87 in spring blossom, miles of villas88 and handsome houses, all the signs of a prosperous suburban89 population. How different from the signs of the past!
Early in the afternoon we sighted the dark-browed Titan on the hither side of which the homestead lay. Mending our pace, we entered a mile-long avenue, cleared with a bridegroom's munificence90, as a fitting approach for so fair a bride, on the occasion of his marriage.
I don't think we danced that night—the fairer portion of the company being moderately travel-worn—but we made up for it on the succeeding[Pg 210] ones. Each day's programme had been marked out, and arrangements made in regal style. Some of us had sent on our favourite hacks91; side-saddle and other horses were provided by the host in any quantity. Riding parties, picnics to fern gullies, to Mount Juliet, and other places of romantic interest, were successfully carried out. Races were improvised92. Shooting parties, fishing excursions, kangaroo and opossum battues—everything which could impress the idea that life was one perpetual round of mirth and revelry—had been provided for.
As we sat at mid-day on the velvet94 green sward, by fern-fringed streamlets, under giant gums or the towering patriarchs of the mountain ash, while merry jest and sparkling repartee95 went round, ardent96 vow97 and rippling98 laughter, we might have been taken—apart from the costume—for an acted chapter out of "Boccaccio." When we came dashing in before sunset, the sound of our approach was like that of a cavalry99 troop, or the rolling hoof-thunder of marauding Apachés. The Germans were musicians of taste; to the "Morgen-blatter" and the "Tausend-und-eine Nachte" valses we danced until the Southern Cross was low in the sky, while as we watched the moon rise, flooding with silver radiance the sombre Alp, and shedding a passing gleam on the rippling river, all might well have passed for an enchanted100 revel93, where mirth, moon, and music would disappear at the waving of a wand.
Years had rolled on since my first visit to the pioneer homestead. The cottage had disappeared, or was relegated101 to other purposes. In its place[Pg 211] stood a mansion102, replete103 with the appliances of modern country-house life. The vineyard covered acres of the slope, and the grapes were ripening104 upon thousands of trellised vines. The stables were filled with high-conditioned, high-priced animals, with grooms105 and helpers in proportion to their needs.
In the meadows below the house grazed hundreds of high-priced shorthorns, some hundreds of which had been purchased from me, Rolf, a few months previously106, so that I had the exceptional privilege of drawing attention to the quality of my herd. Steeds of price were there that day. Diane and Crinoline, two peerless ladies' horses; Mr. de Castella's half-Arab carriage pair; Sir Andrew Clarke's roan Cornborough hackney, equally perfect in harness; Mr. Lyon's team of chestnuts108, high bred and well matched, not to mention the swell109 bright chestnut107 mare64 "Carnation," for which the owner had refused eighty guineas from an Indian buyer.
The cool, capacious wine-cellars played their part on the occasion, being requisitioned for their choicest "cru." Soda110 was abundant, the weather warm, and the daily consumption of fluid must have been serious. When the "decamerone" expired, the guests, one and all, were ready to testify that never did mortals more deeply drink of Pleasure's chalice111, never return to the prose of ordinary life with more sincere regret.
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1
orchard
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| n.果园，果园里的全部果树，(美俚)棒球场 | |
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lagoons
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| n.污水池( lagoon的名词复数 )；潟湖；（大湖或江河附近的）小而浅的淡水湖；温泉形成的池塘 | |
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lagoon
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| n.泻湖，咸水湖 | |
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4
formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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5
denizens
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| n.居民，住户( denizen的名词复数 ) | |
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6
thither
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| adv.向那里；adj.在那边的，对岸的 | |
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7
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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8
sinuous
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| adj.蜿蜒的，迂回的 | |
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9
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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10
thickets
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| n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 )；丛状物 | |
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maze
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| n.迷宫，八阵图，混乱，迷惑 | |
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12
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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13
disported
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| v.嬉戏，玩乐，自娱( disport的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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14
lesser
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| adj.次要的，较小的；adv.较小地，较少地 | |
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15
waded
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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16
wading
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的现在分词 ) | |
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17
entanglement
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| n.纠缠，牵累 | |
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18
verge
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| n.边，边缘；v.接近，濒临 | |
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exhaustion
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| n.耗尽枯竭，疲惫，筋疲力尽，竭尽，详尽无遗的论述 | |
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meshes
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| 网孔( mesh的名词复数 )； 网状物； 陷阱； 困境 | |
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circumvent
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| vt.环绕，包围；对…用计取胜，智胜 | |
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neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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23
scooped
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| v.抢先报道( scoop的过去式和过去分词 )；（敏捷地）抱起；抢先获得；用铲[勺]等挖（洞等） | |
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24
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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untoward
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| adj.不利的，不幸的，困难重重的 | |
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migration
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| n.迁移，移居，（鸟类等的）迁徙 | |
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descried
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| adj.被注意到的，被发现的，被看到的 | |
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audacity
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| n.大胆，卤莽，无礼 | |
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29
offender
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| n.冒犯者，违反者，犯罪者 | |
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30
frantic
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| adj.狂乱的，错乱的，激昂的 | |
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31
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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32
gad
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| n.闲逛；v.闲逛 | |
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33
manor
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| n.庄园，领地 | |
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34
muster
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| v.集合，收集，鼓起，激起；n.集合，检阅，集合人员，点名册 | |
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35
musters
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| v.集合，召集，集结（尤指部队）( muster的第三人称单数 )；（自他人处）搜集某事物；聚集；激发 | |
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36
sable
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| n.黑貂；adj.黑色的 | |
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37
bovine
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| adj.牛的；n.牛 | |
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38
murmur
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| n.低语，低声的怨言；v.低语，低声而言 | |
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39
savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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40
promptly
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| adv.及时地，敏捷地 | |
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41
squatter
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| n.擅自占地者 | |
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42
scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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43
creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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44
herd
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| n.兽群，牧群；vt.使集中，把…赶在一起 | |
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45
oasis
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| n.（沙漠中的）绿洲，宜人的地方 | |
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46
herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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47
precisely
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| adv.恰好，正好，精确地，细致地 | |
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48
tenantless
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| adj.无人租赁的，无人居住的 | |
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49
lodge
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| v.临时住宿，寄宿，寄存，容纳；n.传达室，小旅馆 | |
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50
wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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51
marvel
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| vi.(at)惊叹vt.感到惊异；n.令人惊异的事 | |
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52
feats
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| 功绩，伟业，技艺( feat的名词复数 ) | |
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53
virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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54
outfit
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| n.（为特殊用途的）全套装备，全套服装 | |
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55
humbled
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| adj. 卑下的，谦逊的，粗陋的 vt. 使 ... 卑下，贬低 | |
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56
alluvial
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| adj.冲积的；淤积的 | |
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57
devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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58
royalty
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| n.皇家，皇族 | |
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eminent
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| adj.显赫的，杰出的，有名的，优良的 | |
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gilded
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| a.镀金的，富有的 | |
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colonists
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| n.殖民地开拓者，移民，殖民地居民( colonist的名词复数 ) | |
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sneered
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| 讥笑，冷笑( sneer的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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mare
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| n.母马，母驴 | |
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crest
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| n.顶点；饰章；羽冠；vt.达到顶点；vi.形成浪尖 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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eucalyptus
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| n.桉树，桉属植物 | |
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compulsory
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| n.强制的，必修的；规定的，义务的 | |
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prodigiously
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| adv.异常地，惊人地，巨大地 | |
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eucalypti
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| n.桉树 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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81
fresco
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| n.壁画；vt.作壁画于 | |
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82
propitious
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| adj.吉利的；顺利的 | |
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gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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luncheon
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| n.午宴，午餐，便宴 | |
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rattled
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| 慌乱的，恼火的 | |
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orchards
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| （通常指围起来的）果园( orchard的名词复数 ) | |
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villas
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| 别墅，公馆( villa的名词复数 )； （城郊）住宅 | |
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suburban
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| adj.城郊的，在郊区的 | |
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munificence
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| n.宽宏大量，慷慨给与 | |
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hacks
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| 黑客 | |
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improvised
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| a.即席而作的,即兴的 | |
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revel
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| vi.狂欢作乐，陶醉；n.作乐，狂欢 | |
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velvet
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| n.丝绒，天鹅绒；adj.丝绒制的，柔软的 | |
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repartee
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| n.机敏的应答 | |
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ardent
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| adj.热情的，热烈的，强烈的，烈性的 | |
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vow
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| n.誓(言)，誓约；v.起誓，立誓 | |
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rippling
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| 起涟漪的，潺潺流水般声音的 | |
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cavalry
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| n.骑兵；轻装甲部队 | |
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100
enchanted
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| adj. 被施魔法的，陶醉的，入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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101
relegated
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| v.使降级( relegate的过去式和过去分词 )；使降职；转移；把…归类 | |
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102
mansion
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| n.大厦，大楼；宅第 | |
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103
replete
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| adj.饱满的，塞满的；n.贮蜜蚁 | |
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104
ripening
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| v.成熟，使熟( ripen的现在分词 )；熟化；熟成 | |
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105
grooms
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| n.新郎( groom的名词复数 )；马夫v.照料或梳洗（马等）( groom的第三人称单数 )；使做好准备；训练；（给动物）擦洗 | |
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106
previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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107
chestnut
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| n.栗树，栗子 | |
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108
chestnuts
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| n.栗子( chestnut的名词复数 )；栗色；栗树；栗色马 | |
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109
swell
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| vi.膨胀，肿胀；增长，增强 | |
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110
soda
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| n.苏打水；汽水 | |
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111
chalice
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| n.圣餐杯；金杯毒酒 | |
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