“What a change for us all,” wrote Lockwood on 280 the 3d of June, “if we ever return home! And how much to talk about, and how much to hear! Just two years ago, I left Baltimore on the Nova Scotia, to join the Proteus at St. John’s. Open water is reported in the straits near Cape9 Baird. How eagerly we watch for any change that may effect our release!”
On the 22d of June, a party was sent up the Bellows10 for game and returned successful, having killed eight musk-oxen, one seal, and a few geese, all of which were duly brought in. Many waterfowl and ptarmigans were brought from other points; and then followed a grand dinner in honor of Dr. Pavy’s birthday. To show the social relations of the officers, Lockwood says, “The only remark at dinner was a very sage11 one by myself, viz., that the sun was now on his way south, to which Lieutenant Greely assented12.
“The men all busy and all cheerful. Lieutenant Greely remarked that it did not look as if the ‘gloom which their coming fate cast over the spirits of the men’ was quite as deep as Lieutenant Kislingbury thought it to be. Another day gone,” wrote Lockwood—“another day nearer the end of our stay here! A miserable13, gloomy day it is too. Snow, or snow mixed with rain, all day, and last night it blew a gale14 from the right direction to clear away the ice—north-east. I think myself now in excellent condition for a hermit’s life, having had two years’ experience of a life not very dissimilar.”
On the 3d of June, Lockwood made the ascent15 of an immense “hog-back” north of the station. Hog-back was the term used by the English to designate 281 the oval-shaped elevations16 so common in this region, being neither mountain nor table-land, but immense undulations which, with more or less slope, rise three, four, or even five thousand feet above the sea-level. He was the first to ascend18 this one, and did so to view the country northwest of it, which he desired to explore. It was the highest of a series of ridges19, half a mile or so apart, each just high enough to suggest the idea of its being the genuine top, but showing another beyond still higher. He pressed on, frequently resting, and finally did reach the top, and saw, beyond, the United States Mountains in the distance. The view from this elevation17, more than half a mile above the sea-level, was superb. The straits seemed one solid mass of ice. The Greenland shore and Archer’s Fiord were in full view. The whole land was made up of mountains.
The 4th of July was celebrated20 by a game of baseball, in which Lieutenant Greely took part; also the Esquimaux, but they confined themselves to running after the ball. A good dinner followed, to which Lieutenant Greely contributed four bottles of Sauterne; but the doctor declined the wine, and made a hasty meal. They also had a rifle-match. Several of the men donned white shirts and other “store-clothes,” metamorphosing themselves completely, flannel21 shirts, with trousers in boots, being the usual costume.
On the same day Lieutenant Greely issued an order directing Dr. Pavy to turn over to Lieutenant Lockwood all the medical stores, journals, and collections, 282 the former having declined to renew his engagement, which had expired. On the 11th of July, Lockwood started with Brainard on an exploration toward the northwest with a view of reaching, if possible, the United States range of mountains. They carried an outfit22 weighing one hundred pounds, or twenty-five pounds for each man at the start, as Henry and Biederbick were to help them with the impedimenta for one day and then return. They went without sledge23 or tent, and carried only blanket, sleeping-bags, a small lamp, and a few pounds of food, with instruments, snow-shoes, etc. They soon reached the top of the hog-back beyond “Sugar-Loaf,” and afterward24 the true hog-back Lockwood had visited before, finding it 2,700 feet high. Thence they kept a north-northwest course toward a prominent glacier25 in the United States Range, moving about parallel to North Valley Creek26, which empties into St. Patrick’s Bay. After traveling fourteen miles they camped—that is, selected as smooth and sheltered a spot as could be found, made some tea, spread out the sleeping-bags, and crawled in.
Henry and Biederbick left the next morning evidently well satisfied to forego the pleasures of this trip. Their departure rendered it necessary to reduce the load somewhat, which was done by leaving behind the snow-shoes and rubber spread, trusting to luck to find a bare spot for their sleeping-bag. After tramping through much wet snow alternating with mud and stones, and getting their feet soaking wet, they came to two deep gorges27 close together, each occupied 283 by a considerable stream of water. They crossed these and ascended29 a dome30 beyond, three thousand feet high, and thence came to a still larger stream whose gorge28 was one thousand feet deep. Here they stopped for the night after a tramp of twelve miles. The next morning the sky was overcast31, with barometric32 indications of a storm; but they continued their way with reduced loads, having only one day’s food left. Following the stream northwest a few miles, they crossed it and ascended a high elevation, from which the United States range could be very distinctly viewed, and then came to the conclusion that they had gone far enough.
With the telescope they could see distinctly, about twenty miles away, the walls of the great glacier, and its face ten miles wide. In fact, the whole range was full of glaciers33. The country intervening between them and the glaciers seemed comparatively level. At noon they started back, and did not stop until the camping-place of the night before was reached. Thence, after a drink of tea and something to eat, abandoning their sleeping-bags, they made for their first camp, where had been left the rubber spread and one extra bag. The traveling was execrable, but they reached Fort Conger on the 14th, hungry, tired, and decidedly used up.
On the 24th, preparations began for the proposed boat-journey toward the south on which they would start when the ice would permit. Lockwood, in obedience34 to a general order, prepared to take no clothing except what he wore, and the few pounds of his 284 baggage would consist of his journal and other papers. He felt depressed35 and low-spirited, and totally indifferent as to the risks they were to encounter.
The straits were reported clear of ice below Cape Lieber on the 26th, but the bay near by was still full, though with many leads. Every preparation was made to leave on the 1st of August, if possible, or as soon after as the ice would allow. The men fiddled36 and sang, and seemed in joyous37 spirits; and the hilarity38 was kept up by the dogs Ritenbank and Ask-him having a terrible fight, resulting in victory to the latter. The probable consequence was that Ask-him would now be king. Ritenbank went about with his head down and tail between his legs, a dethroned and friendless monarch39. The usurper’s reign40, however, was likely to be a short one, as, on the party’s leaving, the dogs would either be shot or left to starve to death.
The 5th of August arrived, and the ship was the only thing talked about. Some of the men reported smoke down the straits, but it was soon found to be only water-clouds or fog. In the midst of these excitements, Lockwood gave expression to the following feelings: “As the time for moving approaches, I feel a singular apathy41. If we had plenty of fresh meat and more good books, I could stand another winter here.”
Soon after, heavy winds from the south making great changes in the condition of the ice, active preparations were made for leaving.
Lockwood writes: “I don’t feel as though I was going away, much less toward the south. Have felt more stirred up on beginning a sledge-journey.”
285
TABULATED42 STATEMENT OF THE DISTANCE TRAVELED TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND.
Distance traveled. Time.
Adv Tr Add Tot Adv Tr MPH
Miles—Geographical. Hours. Geo. M.
OUT.
Fort Conger to Boat Camp 48 67 157 224 21? 28? 2·23
Boat Camp to sea-coast 36 86 25 111 18? 44? 1·92
Sea-coast to Cape Bryant 37? 103? 12 113 21? 471/?? 1·74
Cape Bryant to Cape Britannia 60 118 .. 118 32 55?/?? 1·87
Cape Britannia to farthest 95 95 .. 95 39? 48? 2·39
Total (out) 267? 469? 194 701 133? 223? 2·07
BACK.
Farthest to Cape Britannia 95 95 .. 95 37? 41? 2·52
Cape Britannia to Cape Bryant 60 60 .. 60 25? 28 2·33
Cape Bryant to Boat Camp 61? 61? .. 61? 27? 36? 2·25
Boat Camp to Fort Conger 48 48 .. 48 22? 28? 2·13
Total (back) 264? 264? .. 264? 112? 1342/?? 2·34
Aggregate43 (out and back) 541 734 194 965? 24511/?? 357? 2·20
Aggregate (out and back) in statute44 miles 623 .. .. 1069
Key to Headings:
Adv: Advanced.
Add: Additional miles traveled.
Tr: Traveled.
Tot: Total.
MPH: Number of miles per hour.
The word “advanced,” both here and in the journal, refers to the simple distance from camp to camp, and the actual time occupied in making that distance—all stops deducted45.
The word “traveled” includes total number of miles traveled—the number of miles advanced added to those traveled in going back and forth46 in “doubling up.” The time corresponding refers to the whole time from leaving one camp to arriving at the next, all stops included.
The “additional miles” refer to incidental journeys not numbered as marches.
The rate per hour is computed47 from the distance and time advanced.
The whole statement is confined to the dog-sledge.
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1
lieutenant
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| n.陆军中尉，海军上尉；代理官员，副职官员 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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zeal
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| n.热心，热情，热忱 | |
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discretion
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| n.谨慎；随意处理 | |
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5
custodian
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| n.保管人，监护人；公共建筑看守 | |
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6
specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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overhauling
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| n.大修；拆修；卸修；翻修v.彻底检查( overhaul的现在分词 )；大修；赶上；超越 | |
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8
contemplated
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| adj. 预期的 动词contemplate的过去分词形式 | |
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9
cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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10
bellows
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| n.风箱；发出吼叫声，咆哮（尤指因痛苦）( bellow的名词复数 )；（愤怒地）说出（某事），大叫v.发出吼叫声，咆哮（尤指因痛苦）( bellow的第三人称单数 )；（愤怒地）说出（某事），大叫 | |
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11
sage
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| n.圣人，哲人；adj.贤明的，明智的 | |
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12
assented
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| 同意，赞成( assent的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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13
miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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14
gale
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| n.大风，强风，一阵闹声（尤指笑声等） | |
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15
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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16
elevations
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| （水平或数量）提高( elevation的名词复数 )； 高地； 海拔； 提升 | |
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17
elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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18
ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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19
ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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20
celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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21
flannel
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| n.法兰绒；法兰绒衣服 | |
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22
outfit
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| n.（为特殊用途的）全套装备，全套服装 | |
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23
sledge
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| n.雪橇，大锤；v.用雪橇搬运，坐雪橇往 | |
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24
afterward
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| adv.后来；以后 | |
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25
glacier
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| n.冰川，冰河 | |
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26
creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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27
gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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28
gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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29
ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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30
dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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31
overcast
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| adj.阴天的，阴暗的，愁闷的；v.遮盖，（使）变暗，包边缝；n.覆盖，阴天 | |
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32
barometric
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| 大气压力 | |
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33
glaciers
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| 冰河，冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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34
obedience
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| n.服从，顺从 | |
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35
depressed
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| adj.沮丧的，抑郁的，不景气的，萧条的 | |
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36
fiddled
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| v.伪造( fiddle的过去式和过去分词 )；篡改；骗取；修理或稍作改动 | |
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37
joyous
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| adj.充满快乐的；令人高兴的 | |
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38
hilarity
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| n.欢乐；热闹 | |
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39
monarch
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| n.帝王，君主，最高统治者 | |
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40
reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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41
apathy
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| n.漠不关心，无动于衷；冷淡 | |
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42
tabulated
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| 把（数字、事实）列成表( tabulate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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43
aggregate
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| adj.总计的，集合的；n.总数；v.合计；集合 | |
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44
statute
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| n.成文法，法令，法规；章程，规则，条例 | |
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45
deducted
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| v.扣除，减去( deduct的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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46
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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47
computed
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| adj.[医]计算的，使用计算机的v.计算，估算( compute的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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