Salisbury wears a bland6 and cheerful appearance, and has an air of modernity that quite belies7 its age. Few places in England have so well-ascertained an{166} origin. We can fix the very year, six hundred and eighty years ago, when it began to be, and yet, although there is the cathedral to prove its age, with the Poultry8 Cross, and very many ancient houses happily still standing9, it has a general air of anything but medi?valism. This curious feeling that strikes every visitor is really owing to the generous and well-ordered plan on which the city was originally laid out; broad streets being planned in geometrical precision, and the blocks of houses built in regular squares.
That phenomenally simple-minded person, Tom Pinch, thought Salisbury ‘a very desperate sort of place; an exceedingly wild and dissipated city’—a view of it which is not shared by any one else. I wish I could tell you to which inn it was that he resorted to have dinner, and to await the arrival of Martin. A coaching inn, of course, for Martin came by coach from London. But whether it was the ‘White Hart,’ or the ‘Three Swans’ (which, alas10! is no longer an inn), or the ‘King’s Arms,’ or the ‘George,’ is more than I or any one else can determine.
NEW SARUM
Salisbury is by no means desperate or dissipated, even though it be market-day, and although itinerant11 cutlery vendors12 may still sell seven-bladed knives, with never a cut among them, to the unwary. It is true that Mr. Thomas Hardy13 has given us, in On the Western Circuit, a picture of blazing orgies at Melchester Fair, with steam-trumpeting merry-go-rounds, glamour14 and glitter, glancing young women no better than they ought to be, and an amorous15 young barrister much worse than he should have{167} been; and it is true that by ‘Melchester’ this fair city of Salisbury is meant; but you can conjure16 up no very accurate picture of this ancient place from those pages. The real Salisbury is extremely urbane17 and polished, decorous and well-ordered. It is graceful and sunny, and has, in fact, all the sweetness of medi?valism without its sternness, and affords a thorough contrast with Winchester, which frowns upon you where Salisbury smiles. One need not waver from one’s allegiance to Winchester to admit so much.
Salisbury is still known in official documents as ‘New Sarum.’ It is, nevertheless, of a quite respectable antiquity18, its newness dating from that day, 28th April 1220, when Bishop19 Poore laid the foundation-stone of the still existing cathedral. There are romantic incidents in the exodus20 from Old Sarum on its windy height upon the downs, a mile and a half away, to these ‘rich champaign fields and fertile valleys, abounding21 with the fruits of the earth, and watered by living streams,’ in this ‘sink of Salisbury Plain,’ where the Bourne, the Wylye, the Avon, and the Nadder flow in innumerable runlets through the meads.
Old Sarum was old indeed. Its history strikes rootlets deep down into the Unknown. A natural hillock upon the wild downs, its defensible position rendered it a camp for the earliest aboriginal22 tribes, who, always at war with one another, lived for safety’s sake in such bleak and inhospitable places when they would much rather be hunting and enjoying life generally in the sheltered wooded vales{168} and fertile plains. These tribes heaped up the first artificial earthworks that ever strengthened this historic hill, and they were succeeded during the long march of those dim centuries by Romans, Saxons, and Danes. The Romans, with their unerring military instinct, saw the importance of the hill, and added to the simple defences they found there. They called the place Sorbiodunum, and made it a great strategic station. The Saxons strengthened the fortifications in their turn, and at the time of the Norman Conquest a city had grown up under the shelter of the citadel23.
In its deserted24 state to-day, the site of Old Sarum vividly25 recalls the appearance presented by an extinct volcano, the conical hill rising from the downs with the suddenness of an upheaval26, and the area enclosed within the concentric rings of banks and ditches forming a hollow space similar to a crater27. The total area enclosed within these fortifications is about 28 acres. Within this space was comprised that ancient city, and in its very centre, overlooking everything else, and encompassed28 by a circular fosse and bank, 100 feet in height, stood the citadel. The site of this castle is now overgrown with dense29 thickets30 of shrubs31 and brambles; the fragments of its flint and rubble32 walls, 12 feet thick, and some remaining portions of its gateways33 affording evidence of its old-time strength.
OLD SARUM
Within this city, enclosed for centuries by the ring-fence of these fortifications, stood the cathedral, in a position just below the Castle ward34. Its exact site and size (although not a fragment of it is{169} standing) were discovered in the summer of 1834. That portion of the vanished city had been laid down as pasture, and the drought of that year revealed the plan of the cathedral, in a distinct brown outline upon the grass. This building, completed in 1092 by Bishop Osmund, furnished the stone in later years for the spire of Salisbury Cathedral and for the walls of the Close, in which, by St. Anne’s Gate, many sculptured fragments of these relics35 from Old Sarum may yet be seen.
A variety of circumstances brought about the removal of the cathedral from Old Sarum. Water was lacking on that height, and winds raged so furiously around it that the monks36 could not hear the priests say Mass; and, worse than all, during the Papal Interdict37, the King, in revenge for many ecclesiastical annoyances38, transferred the custody39 of the Castle of Old Sarum from the bishops40 to his own creatures, who locked the monks out of their monastery41 and church on one occasion when they had gone on some religious procession. When the monks returned, they found entrance denied them, and were forced to remain in the open air during the whole of a frosty winter night. There was no end to the hardships which those Men of Wrath42 brought upon the Church. No wonder that Peter of Blois cried out, ‘What has the House of the Lord to do with castles? It is the Ark of the Covenant43 in the Temple of Baalim. Let us in God’s name descend44 into the plain.’
The removal decided45 upon, it remained to choose a site. Tradition tells us that the Virgin46 Mary appeared{170} to Bishop Poore in a vision, and told him to build the church on a spot called Merryfield; and has it that the site was chosen by the fall of an arrow shot from the ramparts of Old Sarum. If that was the case, there must have been something miraculous47 in that shot, for the place where Salisbury Cathedral is built is a mile and a half away from those ramparts. But perhaps the bishop or the legends used the long bow in a very special sense.
The cathedral was completed in sixty years, receiving its final consecration48 in 1260; but the great spire was not finished until a hundred years later. The city was an affair of rapid growth, receiving a charter of incorporation49 seven years after being founded. Seventeen years later, Bishop Bingham dealt a final blow at the now utterly50 ruined city of Old Sarum by diverting the old Roman road to the West from its course through Old Sarum, Bemerton, and Wilton, and making a highway running directly to New Sarum, and crossing the Avon by the new bridge which he had built at Harnham. Old Sarum could by this time make little or no resistance, for it was deserted, save for a few who could not bring themselves to leave the home of their forefathers51. Wilton, however, which was a thriving town, bitterly resented this diversion of the roads, and petitioned against it, but without avail. From that date Wilton’s decline set in, and the rise of New Sarum progressed at an even greater speed. A clothing trade sprang up and prospered52, and many Royal visits gave the citizens an air of importance. They waxed rich and arrogant53, and were eternally{171}
THE MARTYRS54
Image unavailable: SALISBURY CATHEDRAL (AFTER CONSTABLE55, R.A.).
SALISBURY CATHEDRAL (AFTER CONSTABLE, R.A.).
{172}
{173}
quarrelling with the bishops, one of whom they murdered in the turbulent times that prevailed during Jack56 Cade’s rebellion. Bishop Ayscough was that unfortunate prelate. He had cautiously retired57 to Edington, but a furious body of Salisbury malcontents marched out across the Plain, and dragging him from the altar of the church, where he was saying Mass, took him to an adjacent hill-top, and slew58 him with the utmost barbarity. It was for the benefit of these unruly citizens that one of Jack Cade’s quarters was consigned59 from London to Salisbury and elevated there on a pole, as a preliminary warning. Full punishment followed a little later.
点击收听单词发音
1 spire | |
n.(教堂)尖顶,尖塔,高点 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
2 bleak | |
adj.(天气)阴冷的;凄凉的;暗淡的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
3 distinguished | |
adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
4 graceful | |
adj.优美的,优雅的;得体的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
5 solitudes | |
n.独居( solitude的名词复数 );孤独;荒僻的地方;人迹罕至的地方 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
6 bland | |
adj.淡而无味的,温和的,无刺激性的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
7 belies | |
v.掩饰( belie的第三人称单数 );证明(或显示)…为虚假;辜负;就…扯谎 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
8 poultry | |
n.家禽,禽肉 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
9 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
10 alas | |
int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
11 itinerant | |
adj.巡回的;流动的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
12 vendors | |
n.摊贩( vendor的名词复数 );小贩;(房屋等的)卖主;卖方 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
13 hardy | |
adj.勇敢的,果断的,吃苦的;耐寒的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
14 glamour | |
n.魔力,魅力;vt.迷住 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
15 amorous | |
adj.多情的;有关爱情的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
16 conjure | |
v.恳求,祈求;变魔术,变戏法 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
17 urbane | |
adj.温文尔雅的,懂礼的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
18 antiquity | |
n.古老;高龄;古物,古迹 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
19 bishop | |
n.主教,(国际象棋)象 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
20 exodus | |
v.大批离去,成群外出 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
21 abounding | |
adj.丰富的,大量的v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的现在分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
22 aboriginal | |
adj.(指动植物)土生的,原产地的,土著的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
23 citadel | |
n.城堡;堡垒;避难所 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
24 deserted | |
adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
25 vividly | |
adv.清楚地,鲜明地,生动地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
26 upheaval | |
n.胀起,(地壳)的隆起;剧变,动乱 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
27 crater | |
n.火山口,弹坑 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
28 encompassed | |
v.围绕( encompass的过去式和过去分词 );包围;包含;包括 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
29 dense | |
a.密集的,稠密的,浓密的;密度大的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
30 thickets | |
n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 );丛状物 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
31 shrubs | |
灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
32 rubble | |
n.(一堆)碎石,瓦砾 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
33 gateways | |
n.网关( gateway的名词复数 );门径;方法;大门口 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
34 ward | |
n.守卫,监护,病房,行政区,由监护人或法院保护的人(尤指儿童);vt.守护,躲开 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
35 relics | |
[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
36 monks | |
n.修道士,僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
37 interdict | |
v.限制;禁止;n.正式禁止;禁令 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
38 annoyances | |
n.恼怒( annoyance的名词复数 );烦恼;打扰;使人烦恼的事 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
39 custody | |
n.监护,照看,羁押,拘留 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
40 bishops | |
(基督教某些教派管辖大教区的)主教( bishop的名词复数 ); (国际象棋的)象 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
41 monastery | |
n.修道院,僧院,寺院 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
42 wrath | |
n.愤怒,愤慨,暴怒 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
43 covenant | |
n.盟约,契约;v.订盟约 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
44 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
45 decided | |
adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
46 virgin | |
n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
47 miraculous | |
adj.像奇迹一样的,不可思议的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
48 consecration | |
n.供献,奉献,献祭仪式 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
49 incorporation | |
n.设立,合并,法人组织 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
50 utterly | |
adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
51 forefathers | |
n.祖先,先人;祖先,祖宗( forefather的名词复数 );列祖列宗;前人 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
52 prospered | |
成功,兴旺( prosper的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
53 arrogant | |
adj.傲慢的,自大的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
54 martyrs | |
n.martyr的复数形式;烈士( martyr的名词复数 );殉道者;殉教者;乞怜者(向人诉苦以博取同情) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
55 constable | |
n.(英国)警察,警官 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
56 jack | |
n.插座,千斤顶,男人;v.抬起,提醒,扛举;n.(Jake)杰克 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
57 retired | |
adj.隐退的,退休的,退役的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
58 slew | |
v.(使)旋转;n.大量,许多 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
59 consigned | |
v.把…置于(令人不快的境地)( consign的过去式和过去分词 );把…托付给;把…托人代售;丟弃 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
欢迎访问英文小说网 |