If you want to know exactly what kind of a road the Exeter Road is between Salisbury and Bridport, a distance of twenty-two miles, I think the sketch2 facing page 238 will convey the information much better than words alone. It is just a repetition of those bleak3 seventeen miles between Andover and Salisbury—only ‘more so.’ More barren and hillier than the Andover to Salisbury section, and less romantically wild than the rugged4 stretches between Blandford,{233} Dorchester, and Bridport, it is a weariness to man and beast. Buffeted5 by the winds which shriek6 across the rolling downs, or nipped by the keen airs of these altitudes, old-time travellers up to London or down to Exeter dreaded7 the passage, and prepared themselves, accordingly, at Bridport or at Salisbury, while exhausted8 nature was recruited at the several inns which found their existence abundantly justified9 in those old times.
Image unavailable: WHERE THE ROBBER FELL DEAD.
WHERE THE ROBBER FELL DEAD.
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Passing through West Harnham, a suburb of Salisbury, the road immediately begins to climb the downs, descending10, however, in three miles to the charming little village of Coombe Bissett, in the water-meadows of the Wiltshire Avon, which runs prettily12 beside the road. An ancient church, old thatched barns standing13 on stone staddles whose feet are in the stream, bridges across the water, and the inevitable14 downs closing in the view, make one of the rare picturesque15 compositions to be found along this dreary stretch of country.
Make much, wayfarer16, of Coombe Bissett. Linger there, soothe17 your soul with its rural graces before proceeding18; for the road immediately leaves this valley of the Avon, and the next bend discloses the unfenced rolling downs, going in a mile-long rise, and so continuing, with a balance in the matter of gradients against the traveller going westwards, all the way to Blandford.
At eight miles from Salisbury is situated19 the old ‘Woodyates Inn,’ placed in this lonely situation, far removed from any village, in the days when the coaching traffic made the custom of travellers worth obtaining. It was in those days thought that after travelling eight miles the passengers by coach or post-chaise would want refreshments20. It was a happy and well-founded thought; and if all tales be true, the prowess of our great-grandfathers as trenchermen left nothing to be desired—nor anything remaining in the larder21 when they had done.
The curious, on the lookout22 for this old coaching inn, will scarcely recognise it when seen, for it has{235}
WOODYATES
Image unavailable: COOMBE BISSETT.
COOMBE BISSETT.
{236}
{237}
been garnished23 and painted, and rechristened of late years by the title of the ‘Shaftesbury Arms.’ But there it is, and portions of it may be found to date back to the old times.
It was given the name of ‘Woodyates’ from its position standing at the entrance to the wooded district of Cranborne Chase; the name meaning ‘Wood-gates.’ It also stands on the border-line dividing the counties of Wilts11 and Dorset.
Bokerley Dyke24, a prehistoric25 boundary consisting of a bank and ditch, intersects the road as you approach the inn, and goes meandering26 over the downs among the gorse and bracken. Built, no doubt, more than fifteen hundred years ago by savages27, solely28 with the aid of their hands and pointed29 sticks, it has outlasted30 many monuments of costly31 stones and marbles, and when civilisation32 comes to an end some day, like the blown-out flame of a candle, it will still be there, with the existing, but more recent, Roman road still beside it. That road goes across the open country like a causeway, or a slightly raised railway embankment.
The Dyke may have sheltered the fugitive33 Duke of Monmouth on his flight in 1685. The reading of that melancholy34 story of how the handsome and gay Duke of Monmouth, a haggard fugitive from Sedgemoor Fight, accompanied by his friend, Lord Grey, and another, left their wearied horses near this spot, and, disguising themselves as peasants, set out for the safe hiding-places of the New Forest, only to fall prisoners to James’s scouts35, paints the road and the downs with an impasto of tragedy. All the countryside{238} was being searched for him, and watchers were stationed on the hills, looking down upon this open country where the movement of a rabbit almost might be noted36 from afar. So he doubtless skulked37 along in the shadow of the Dyke from the shelter of Cranborne Chase down to Woodlands, where he was caught, under the shadow of a tree still standing, called Monmouth Ash.
Scattered38 all around are the inevitable barrows. The industry of a byegone generation of antiquaries has explored them all. Pick and shovel39 have scattered the ashes and the cinerary urns40 of the Britons or Saxons who were buried here, and the only relics41 likely to be found by any other ghouls are the discs of lead deposited by Sir Richard Colt Hoare, or W. Cunnington, with the initials ‘R. C. H. 1815,’ or some such date; or, ‘Opened by W. Cunnington 1804’ on them.
George the Third always used to change horses at ‘Woodyates Inn’ when journeying to or from Weymouth, and the room built for his use on those occasions is still to be seen, with its outside flight of steps. When the coaches were taken off the road, the inn became for a time the training establishment of William Day.
The road near this old inn is the real scene of the Ingoldsby legend of the Dead Drummer, and not Salisbury Plain, on ‘one of the rises’ where
An old way-post shewed
Where the Lavington road
Branched off to the left from the one to Devizes.
{239}
Image unavailable: THE EXETER ROAD, NEAR ‘WOODYATES INN.’
THE EXETER ROAD, NEAR ‘WOODYATES INN.’
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A HIGHWAY MURDER
It was on Thursday, 15th June 1786, that two sailors, paid off from H.M.S. Sampson, at Plymouth, and walking up to London, came to this spot. Their names were Gervase (or Jarvis) Matcham, and John Shepherd. Near the ‘Woodyates Inn’ they were overtaken by a thunderstorm, in which Matcham startled his companion by showing extraordinary marks of horror and distraction42, running about, falling on his knees, and imploring43 mercy of some invisible enemy. To his companion’s questions he answered that he saw several strange and dismal44 spectres, particularly one in the shape of a female, towards which he advanced, when it instantly sank into the earth, and a large stone rose up in its place. Other large stones also rolled upon the ground before him, and came dashing against his feet. He confessed to Shepherd that, about seven years previously45, he had enlisted46 as a soldier at Huntingdon, and shortly afterwards was sent out from that town in company with a drummer-boy, seventeen years of age, named Jones, son of a sergeant47 in the regiment48, who was in charge of some money to be paid away. They quarrelled because the lad refused to return and drink at a public-house on the Great North Road which they had just passed, four miles from Huntingdon. Matcham knocked him down, cut his throat, and taking the money (six guineas) made off to London, leaving the body by the roadside. He now declared that, with this exception, he had never in his life broken the law, and that, before the moment of committing this crime, he had not the least design of injuring the deceased, who had given him no other provocation49 than ill-language.{242} But from that hour he had been a stranger to peace of mind; his crime was always present to his imagination, and existence seemed at times an insupportable burden. He begged his companion to deliver him into the hands of Justice in the next town they should reach. That was Salisbury. He was imprisoned50 there, brought to trial, found guilty, and hanged.
Barham in his legend of the Dead Drummer has taken many liberties with the facts of the case, both as regards place and names, and makes the scene of the murderer’s terror identical with the site of the crime, which he (for purely51 literary purposes) places on Salisbury Plain, instead of the Great North Road, between Buckden and Alconbury.
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1 dreary | |
adj.令人沮丧的,沉闷的,单调乏味的 | |
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2 sketch | |
n.草图;梗概;素描;v.素描;概述 | |
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3 bleak | |
adj.(天气)阴冷的;凄凉的;暗淡的 | |
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4 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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5 buffeted | |
反复敲打( buffet的过去式和过去分词 ); 连续猛击; 打来打去; 推来搡去 | |
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6 shriek | |
v./n.尖叫,叫喊 | |
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7 dreaded | |
adj.令人畏惧的;害怕的v.害怕,恐惧,担心( dread的过去式和过去分词) | |
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8 exhausted | |
adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
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9 justified | |
a.正当的,有理的 | |
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10 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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11 wilts | |
(使)凋谢,枯萎( wilt的第三人称单数 ) | |
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12 prettily | |
adv.优美地;可爱地 | |
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13 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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14 inevitable | |
adj.不可避免的,必然发生的 | |
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15 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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16 wayfarer | |
n.旅人 | |
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17 soothe | |
v.安慰;使平静;使减轻;缓和;奉承 | |
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18 proceeding | |
n.行动,进行,(pl.)会议录,学报 | |
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19 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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20 refreshments | |
n.点心,便餐;(会议后的)简单茶点招 待 | |
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21 larder | |
n.食物贮藏室,食品橱 | |
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22 lookout | |
n.注意,前途,瞭望台 | |
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23 garnished | |
v.给(上餐桌的食物)加装饰( garnish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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24 dyke | |
n.堤,水坝,排水沟 | |
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25 prehistoric | |
adj.(有记载的)历史以前的,史前的,古老的 | |
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26 meandering | |
蜿蜒的河流,漫步,聊天 | |
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27 savages | |
未开化的人,野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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28 solely | |
adv.仅仅,唯一地 | |
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29 pointed | |
adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
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30 outlasted | |
v.比…长久,比…活得长( outlast的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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31 costly | |
adj.昂贵的,价值高的,豪华的 | |
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32 civilisation | |
n.文明,文化,开化,教化 | |
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33 fugitive | |
adj.逃亡的,易逝的;n.逃犯,逃亡者 | |
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34 melancholy | |
n.忧郁,愁思;adj.令人感伤(沮丧)的,忧郁的 | |
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35 scouts | |
侦察员[机,舰]( scout的名词复数 ); 童子军; 搜索; 童子军成员 | |
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36 noted | |
adj.著名的,知名的 | |
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37 skulked | |
v.潜伏,偷偷摸摸地走动,鬼鬼祟祟地活动( skulk的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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38 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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39 shovel | |
n.铁锨,铲子,一铲之量;v.铲,铲出 | |
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40 urns | |
n.壶( urn的名词复数 );瓮;缸;骨灰瓮 | |
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41 relics | |
[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
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42 distraction | |
n.精神涣散,精神不集中,消遣,娱乐 | |
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43 imploring | |
恳求的,哀求的 | |
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44 dismal | |
adj.阴沉的,凄凉的,令人忧郁的,差劲的 | |
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45 previously | |
adv.以前,先前(地) | |
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46 enlisted | |
adj.应募入伍的v.(使)入伍, (使)参军( enlist的过去式和过去分词 );获得(帮助或支持) | |
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47 sergeant | |
n.警官,中士 | |
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48 regiment | |
n.团,多数,管理;v.组织,编成团,统制 | |
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49 provocation | |
n.激怒,刺激,挑拨,挑衅的事物,激怒的原因 | |
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50 imprisoned | |
下狱,监禁( imprison的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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51 purely | |
adv.纯粹地,完全地 | |
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