AT the camp at Dry Lake, which we reached between November 20 and 25, we laid over a day, and a party was sent ahead to cut a road over the divide. I was too weak for four or five days to take much interest in what passed; and in the meantime the command reached and crossed the divide, or summit of the Rocky Mountains—the backbone of the North American continent—where the waters are divided, flowing on either side to the Atlantic and Pacific respectively.
For eighteen hundred miles the Mormon Battalion12 members had made a hard and weary march. Starting from Nauvoo, on the Mississippi River—the "father of waters"—as exiles, they had passed over a lovely country, yet at a season of the year when travel was difficult, to the Missouri River. At the latter point the battalion was mustered13 into service, and moved over an excellent country two hundred miles to Fort Leavenworth; thence through what is now the state of Kansas, passing over a goodly land to the Great Plains, a timberless country, where water is scarce. There they began to be footsore and leg-weary, and to suffer severely14 from heat and thirst. Soon they came to the desert, and for nine days tried cooking their shortened rations15 over "buffalo16 chip" fires, with fuel even scarcer than it was poor; often having very little water, and that brackish17, so that men and hearts began to grow weak and ill.
At this point in the long journey they commenced passing the open graves of soldiers, many of whom laid down their lives in the advance companies. Their graves were open for the reason that wolves had dug up the dead bodies and devoured18 the flesh from the bones; the blankets in which the bodies were wrapped were torn to shreds19, while in some instances the carcass still hung together, except that the fingers and toes had been eaten off by wild beasts. The road was also strewn with dead horses and cattle, so that as the battalion advanced the gruesome sights became more frequent and therefore excited less comment. And in turn the battalion contributed a share of dead to the lonely graves of the plains.
Then, on the sandy roads, there was the rough order to put the shoulder to the wheel and help the jaded20 teams; and the battalion waded21 creeks22 and rivers with quicksand bottoms, or lifted or pulled at ropes in lowering or raising their wagons over rough and precipitous places—in what appeared at that time a rough and worthless country, which may not have changed greatly since.
At times they were called forward to tramp sand roads for teams, and then to return and pull at ropes or push at wagons which, without assistance, the teams could not control. Then when Santa Fe was passed the journey was proceeded upon with reduced rations, down the difficult country along the Rio Grande del Norte. Onward23 the struggle continued, over sandy deserts and through a rough, mountainous region, where the hardships were intense, and where there seemed no eye to pity and no hand to pass even a drop of water to moisten the parching24 tongue. It was not human capability25, it was the divine power that sustained them in such extremities26 as they had to endure.
It was thus the renowned27 Mormon Battalion toiled28 and struggled on their journey to the summit of the lofty Rocky Mountain range—the crest29 of the continent—a journey whose details of privation, and peril30, and patient courage, cannot be told in human words, and never can be realized except by those who experienced it. So many lofty mountain spurs had been crossed, that the final ascent31 seemed quite gradual.
Leaving now this general survey of the past, I recall that from the lofty eminence32 we had reached on our march, the descent was very abrupt33 and difficult, through the rugged34 defiles35 to the west. But with the battalion it was a case of life and death. That was no place to remain, there was no earthly help at hand, no way to life open but to trust in God and persevere36 in the onward movement. So with the pick-axe and crow-bar we commenced to clear the most feasible road down by chopping away the shrubbery and brush and removing that and the rocks.
After much of the baggage had been taken down the mountain one way by pack animals, long ropes and guy-ropes were attached to the wagons and the descent with them began by another way. The wagons were lowered for a distance of half a mile or so, men standing38 as best they could on the mountain side, letting the vehicle down gradually, then holding it till other men could get a fresh footing and lower it still further. Thus one by one the wagons were let down in safety, all but one. By some mishap39 that got adrift from the men, and to save their lives they had to let it go until there was nothing of it but scrap-iron and kindling-wood. As there was already an abundance of the latter around us, no one was desirous of descending to the rugged depths of the ravine to secure even a relic40 of that terrible descent.
It was thought by our commander and guides that it would require from six to eight days to make the descent, but thanks to the tact41 and skill of some of our men who had been accustomed to frontier life, the work was done in two days, and we were again where the wagons could stand on partially42 level ground.
In a very brief space of time we found ourselves plunged43 into a warm climate, where we could not see any plant or shrub37 that we had been acquainted with before. There was some small, scrubby ash, sycamore and black walnut44, but everything, even to the rocks, had a strange appearance. We also had entered the land of wild horses and cattle, which roamed the hills by thousands. The wild cattle became excited at the rumbling45 wagons, and gathered thickly along our way.
At last the muskets46 commenced to rattle47, partly through fear, and partly because we wanted beef. Finally a herd48 of wild cattle charged our line, tossed some men into the air, pierced others with their horns, knocking some down, and ran over others, attacking one light wagon5, the hind49 end of which was lifted clear from the road. One large bull plunged into a six-mule team, ran his head under the off-swing mule, throwing him entirely50 over the near one and thrusting his horn into the mule's vitals, injuring our animal so it had to be left on the ground, where it expired in a few minutes. There were several men and mules51 roughly used and bruised52, just the number I do not now recall. The attacking party lost twenty or twenty-five of their number killed, with many others badly or slightly wounded.
We had plenty of beef for a few days, and might have secured much more. I never understood the reason why we were not allowed to lay by and "jerk" an abundance of meat for the subsequent use of the command, but the stop was not permitted. Many of the men felt greatly disappointed and indignant because we were denied the privilege of availing ourselves of this splendid opportunity of replenishing our scanty53 rations. We were half starving at the time, and perhaps if we had been allowed to lay by a few days we would have gorged54 ourselves to our injury. It may be that would have been more serious than to have stormed, as some did, at being ordered to march on. It is possible this was the view taken by our commander, though we never knew.
Continuing our advance to lower levels, the climate was mild and pleasant. Our course was northwesterly until we passed a deserted55 ranch56 called San Bernardino, in what is now Arizona, and followed down the San Pedro River. I think this was the south fork of the Gila River. There was some good country along this lovely stream. It was there we first saw the mescal and mesquit, the former being the plant from which the Mexicans distil57 their whisky (pulque), the latter a tree somewhat resembling the black locust58, but growing with a very spreading habit, making it difficult to travel among. In many places it had to be cut down and cleared away before we could proceed. There was another scrubby tree-growth which the Spaniards call chapparal. This brush grew very thick in places, so that in cutting it away travel became very tedious.
Here the guides told Colonel Cooke that if we followed along the stream it would be a hundred miles farther than if we cut across the bend, but if we took the latter route we would have to pass through a Mexican fortified59 town, where a body of soldiers had been left to guard it as an outpost. At that time it was impossible for us to learn the strength of the place; but it was thought that we might get some supplies of provisions and some animals. At the same time there was considerable risk that we would have to fight, and perhaps get defeated, in which case it would be not only a loss of property but of life as well.
On December 12 and 13 we followed down the San Pedro, our course being nearly due north, near the base of a mountain extending towards the Gila River. The guide, Leroux, with others, returned from an exploration of the table-land to the west, leading to Tucson. They found a party of Apache Indians and some Mexicans distilling60 mescal, and learned from them that the Mexican garrison11 at Tucson numbered about two hundred men. The interpreter with the guides, Dr. Foster, had thought it proper to go to Tucson, and Leroux told the Mexicans to inform the commander at Tucson that an American army was approaching en route to California; that the advance guard numbered about three hundred and sixty men, and if it stopped to drill it would give time for the main army to come up; that the strength of the main army could be judged by the size of its vanguard; and that if Foster did not rejoin the advance guard by a given time it would be understood that he was a prisoner at Tucson. Upon learning what had been done and said, Colonel Cooke issued the following order:
"Headquarters Mormon Battalion, Camp on the San Pedro, Dec. 13, 1846.
"Thus far on our course to California we have followed the guides furnished us by the general. These guides now point to Tucson, a garrison town, as on our road, and assert that any other course is one hundred miles out of the way, and over a trackless wilderness61 of mountains, rivers and hills. We will march then to Tucson. We came not to make war on Sonora, and less still to destroy an important outpost of defense62 against Indians. But we will take the straight road before us and overcome all resistance, but shall I remind you that the American soldier ever shows justice and kindness to the unarmed and unresisting? The property of individuals you will hold sacred; the people of Sonora are not our enemies.
"By order of Lieutenant63 Colonel Cooke.
"P. C. Merrill, Adjutant."
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1
backbone
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| n.脊骨，脊柱，骨干；刚毅，骨气 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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3
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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4
wagons
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| n.四轮的运货马车( wagon的名词复数 )；铁路货车；小手推车 | |
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5
wagon
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| n.四轮马车，手推车，面包车；无盖运货列车 | |
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6
kindling
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| n. 点火, 可燃物 动词kindle的现在分词形式 | |
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7
scrap
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| n.碎片；废料；v.废弃，报废 | |
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8
mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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9
gored
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| v.（动物）用角撞伤，用牙刺破( gore的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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10
garrisoned
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| 卫戍部队守备( garrison的过去式和过去分词 )； 派部队驻防 | |
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11
garrison
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| n.卫戍部队；驻地，卫戍区；vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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12
battalion
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| n.营；部队；大队(的人) | |
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13
mustered
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| v.集合，召集，集结（尤指部队）( muster的过去式和过去分词 )；（自他人处）搜集某事物；聚集；激发 | |
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14
severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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15
rations
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| 定量( ration的名词复数 )； 配给量； 正常量； 合理的量 | |
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16
buffalo
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| n.(北美)野牛；(亚洲)水牛 | |
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17
brackish
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| adj.混有盐的；咸的 | |
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18
devoured
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| 吞没( devour的过去式和过去分词 )； 耗尽； 津津有味地看； 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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19
shreds
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| v.撕碎，切碎( shred的第三人称单数 )；用撕毁机撕毁（文件） | |
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20
jaded
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| adj.精疲力竭的；厌倦的；（因过饱或过多而）腻烦的；迟钝的 | |
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21
waded
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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22
creeks
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| n.小湾( creek的名词复数 )；小港；小河；小溪 | |
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23
onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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24
parching
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| adj.烘烤似的，焦干似的v.（使）焦干， （使）干透( parch的现在分词 )；使（某人）极口渴 | |
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25
capability
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| n.能力；才能；(pl)可发展的能力或特性等 | |
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26
extremities
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| n.端点( extremity的名词复数 )；尽头；手和足；极窘迫的境地 | |
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27
renowned
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| adj.著名的，有名望的，声誉鹊起的 | |
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28
toiled
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| 长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的过去式和过去分词 )； 艰难缓慢地移动，跋涉 | |
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29
crest
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| n.顶点；饰章；羽冠；vt.达到顶点；vi.形成浪尖 | |
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30
peril
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| n.(严重的)危险；危险的事物 | |
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31
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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32
eminence
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| n.卓越，显赫；高地，高处；名家 | |
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33
abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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34
rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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35
defiles
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| v.玷污( defile的第三人称单数 )；污染；弄脏；纵列行进 | |
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36
persevere
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| v.坚持，坚忍，不屈不挠 | |
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37
shrub
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| n.灌木，灌木丛 | |
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38
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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39
mishap
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| n.不幸的事，不幸；灾祸 | |
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40
relic
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| n.神圣的遗物，遗迹，纪念物 | |
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41
tact
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| n.机敏，圆滑，得体 | |
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42
partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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43
plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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44
walnut
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| n.胡桃，胡桃木，胡桃色，茶色 | |
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45
rumbling
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| n. 隆隆声, 辘辘声 adj. 隆隆响的 动词rumble的现在分词 | |
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46
muskets
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| n.火枪，（尤指）滑膛枪( musket的名词复数 ) | |
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47
rattle
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| v.飞奔，碰响；激怒；n.碰撞声；拨浪鼓 | |
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48
herd
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| n.兽群，牧群；vt.使集中，把…赶在一起 | |
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49
hind
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| adj.后面的，后部的 | |
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50
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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51
mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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52
bruised
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| [医]青肿的，瘀紫的 | |
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53
scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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54
gorged
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| v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的过去式和过去分词 )；作呕 | |
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55
deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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56
ranch
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| n.大牧场，大农场 | |
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57
distil
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| vt.蒸馏；提取…的精华，精选出 | |
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58
locust
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| n.蝗虫；洋槐，刺槐 | |
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59
fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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60
distilling
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| n.蒸馏（作用）v.蒸馏( distil的过去式和过去分词 )( distilled的过去分词 )；从…提取精华 | |
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61
wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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62
defense
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| n.防御，保卫；[pl.]防务工事；辩护，答辩 | |
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63
lieutenant
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| n.陆军中尉，海军上尉；代理官员，副职官员 | |
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